6ºE
7ºE Bornholm (DK) DENMARK 8ºE Sylt SYLT (p719) Westerland LÜBECK (p701) Enjoy a ramble among the sandy dunes, B A L T I C hit the crashing surf or quite literally walk Flensburg Catch the Hanseatic spirit in S E A Schleswig-Holstein this Unesco-recognised town Rügen Island on the ocean floor on this glamorous, Wadden Sea NP windswept North Sea island known for its delicious Vorpommersche RÜGEN ISLAND (p747) marzipan confections Boddenlandschaft NP North Frisian Jasmund NP Explore the many faces Islands Sassnitz of this fascinating island, 54ºN 10ºE 11ºE Puttgarden including its rugged chalk Husum HAMBURG (p674) Binz cliffs, windswept beaches, Let your hair down on a Barth Romantic-era spa architecture tour of this vibrant city's Hegoland KIEL Stralsund and tree-lined country roads eclectic bar and pub scene Warnemünde 13ºE SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN Greifswald Neumünster Poel Rostock Island 14ºE N O R T H S E A Hamburg Wadden Sea NP Wismar 15ºE Lübeck MÜRITZ NATIONAL PARK (p733) Lower Saxony East Frisian Islands Cuxhaven 12ºE Wadden Sea NP MECKLENBURG-WESTERN POMERANIA Hit the slow lane on a leisurely paddling- and-camping trip around this watery paradise teeming with birds Norddeich HAMBURG SCHWERIN Pasewalk Bremerhaven HAMBURG Neubrandenburg Szczecin Wilhelmshaven (Stettin) A1 River Lake Emden Müritz Neustrelitz
Groningen Müritz Hamme Lüneburg NP Oldenburg BREMEN Rheinsberg Lower Oder BREMEN (p660) BREMEN Valley NP Savour the relaxed spirit of this 'metropolis Weser P O L A N D in miniature' with its lovely red-brick and River art-nouveau architecture and sizzling alternative nightlife Salzwedel Oder
LOWER SAXONY River
Celle Stendal Elbe River A2 Brandenburg BERLIN N E T H E R L A N D S BERLIN Bad Wolfsburg an der Havel Frankfurt an Bentheim A9 der Oder POTSDAM A1 HANOVER Osnabrück Rheine Braunschweig BERLIN (p99) Hildesheim Visit world-class museums MAGDEBURG Bielefeld BRANDENBURG by day and bustling bars, pubs and clubs by night Münster Goslar Bad Harzburg Lübben NORTH RHINE–WESTPHALIA Emmerich H Cottbus a Dessau Lutherstadt r Wittenberg Hamm z Quedlinburg Paderborn Recklinghausen Harz NP M SAXONY-ANHALT o u RUHRGEBIET n t Gelsenkirchen a i n s Oberhausen Dortmund Göttingen Duisburg Bochum Essen Halle Kassel Hagen Unstrut Leipzig DÜSSELDORF Wuppertal River Görlitz Mönchengladbach Solingen Mühlhausen Bautzen Hainich NP DRESDEN
Cologne ERFURT Weimar River SAXONY n d Zittau Jena o n Eisenach Gotha ax la Siegen S er River z T it Aachen h Ilm Sw u Gera Chemnitz Marburg r THURINGIA Bonn i n Zwickau g i an F Saale DRESDEN (p176) Rhine o r e s t Saalfeld B E L G I U M Giessen Suhl Explore the treasures and Fulda grand buildings of this COLOGNE (p568) HESSE baroque beauty bisected Plauen by the majestic Elbe River Visit Cologne's magnificent Koblenz Dom (cathedral), which A5 dominates the city skyline River Hof WEIMAR (p269) Coburg Wander in the footsteps of the Frankfurt am Main greatest minds in German history – PRAGUE WIESBADEN from Goethe to Gropius – then Bacharach Main River Schweinfurt Bayreuth Moselle River dip south into the Thuringian Forest to exercise or relax MAINZ A3 Aschaffenburg Marktredwitz
LUXEM- Bamberg RHINELAND- Darmstadt Würzburg BOURG ñ C Z E C H TrierA1 PALATINATE Pilse R E P U B L I C LUXEMBOURG Worms LEGEND Saar River Erlangen SAARLAND A3 Mannheim Freeway Kaiserslautern Heidelberg Nuremberg Primary Road Secondary Road SAARBRÜCKEN Speyer Rothenburg ob der Tauber Schwandorf Tertiary Road
0 80 km Heilbronn BAVARIA B 0 50 miles a A9 v Karlsruhe Regensburg a ROMANTIC RHINE (p499) r i Altmühltal Danube River a Drive or cruise along the n ELEVATION Rhine, passing picturesque Pforzheim Bavarian 4000m F Forest NP vineyards, villages and Baden- t o Baden STUTTGART Ingolstadt r castles along the way Nördlingen e 3000m s s t A7 e Strasbourg Passau 1500m r Landshut Offenburg Freudenstadt o 1000m ROTHENBURG Ulm OB DER TAUBER (p342) F BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Augsburg 500m Experience this walled medieval A8 town at its most magical: k 200m early or late in the day when A5 it's devoid of day trippers c MUNICH SCHLOSS 0 FreiburgH NEUSCHWANSTEIN (p352) öl a A U S T R I A len Gain insight into the warped tal F R A N C E l mind of King Ludwig II Memmingen on a tour of his sugar fantasy castle Rosenheim B Salzburg BERCHTESGADEN (p361) Singen Lake Zugspitze FREIBURG (p452) Konstanz Constance Kempten (2963m) Indulge in a multitude of outdoor Revel in the sunny and youthful i a n A l p s activities in this sprawling Alpine a r Berchtesgaden spirit of this ancient town a v resort region, with its dramatic Lindau B Kufstein that's also a gateway to the Basel Füssen Garmisch- peaks, dreamy lakes and Partenkirchen legendary Black Forest S W I T Z E R L A N D Berchtesgaden NP fascinating – if dark – history Oberstdorf Mittenwald MUNICH (p295) Zürich LIECHTENSTEIN Innsbruck Time your stay to coincide with Oktoberfest, or simply visit the boisterous local beer halls 13 Contents
On the Road 4 Lübben 166 Lübbenau 168 Cottbus 168 Germany Highlights 6 Around Cottbus 169 EASTERN BRANDENBURG 169 Buckow 169 Destination Germany 17 Frankfurt an der Oder 170 NORTHERN BRANDENBURG 171 Getting Started Sachsenhausen 20 Concentration Camp 171 Rheinsberg 172 Lower Oder Valley Events Calendar 24 National Park 173 Chorin 174 Itineraries 26 Niederfinow 174
History 32 Saxony 175 CENTRAL SAXONY 176 Dresden 176 The Culture 54 Around Dresden 189 Saxon Switzerland 190 Meissen 193 Food & Drink 79 WESTERN SAXONY 194 Leipzig 194 Around Leipzig 205 Environment 93 Chemnitz 205 Around Chemnitz 207 Berlin Zwickau 208 99 EASTERN SAXONY 210 History 100 Bautzen 210 Orientation 101 Görlitz 212 Information 101 Bad Muskau 214 Sights 114 Zittau 215 Activities 130 Around Zittau 216 Walking Tour 130 Berlin for Children 133 Tours 133 Saxony-Anhalt 217 Festivals & Events 134 Magdeburg 218 Sleeping 135 EASTERN Eating 139 SAXONY-ANHALT 223 Drinking 142 Dessau-Rosslau 223 Entertainment 145 Gartenreich Shopping 149 Dessau-Wörlitz 227 Getting There & Away 152 Ferropolis 228 Getting Around 153 Lutherstadt Wittenberg 229 SOUTHERN SAXONY-ANHALT 233 Brandenburg 155 Halle 233 POTSDAM & HAVELLAND 156 Lutherstadt Eisleben 236 Potsdam 157 SAALE-UNSTRUT REGION 237 Brandenburg an der Havel 164 Naumburg 237 SPREEWALD 166 Freyburg 239
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Sleeping 319 Tours 408 Harz Mountains 240 Eating 322 Festivals & Events 408 WESTERN HARZ 242 Drinking 325 Sleeping 408 Goslar 242 Entertainment 327 Eating 409 Hahnenklee 245 Shopping 329 Drinking 411 Bad Harzburg 246 Getting There & Away 330 Entertainment 411 Braunlage 247 Getting Around 330 Shopping 412 St Andreasberg 247 AROUND MUNICH 331 Getting There & Away 412 Clausthal-Zellerfeld 248 Dachau Concentration Getting Around 412 EASTERN HARZ 249 Camp Memorial 331 Around Stuttgart 413 Wernigerode 249 Schleissheim 332 NORTHERN B A D E N - W Ü R T T E M B E R G 4 1 4 Rübeland Caves 252 Starnberg 332 Heidelberg 414 Schierke 252 Andechs 333 Bad Tölz 333 Around Heidelberg 421 Mittelbau Dora 253 Chiemsee 334 Mannheim 421 Brocken & Torfhaus 253 THE ROMANTIC ROAD 336 Karlsruhe 422 Quedlinburg 254 Würzburg 337 Kloster Maulbronn 424 Gernrode 258 Aschaffenburg 342 Schwäbisch Hall 425 Thale 258 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 342 SWABIAN ALPS & AROUND 426 Dinkelsbühl 346 Tübingen 426 Thuringia 261 Nördlingen 347 Augsburg 348 CENTRAL THURINGIA 263 Welcome Füssen 352 Erfurt 263 To Germany 429 Around Füssen 354 Weimar 269 Around Tübingen 438 BAVARIAN ALPS 355 Buchenwald 276 Ulm 439 Garmisch-Partenkirchen 355 Gotha 276 NORTHERN BLACK Around Garmisch- FOREST 443 NORTHERN THURINGIA 278 Partenkirchen 358 Baden-Baden 443 Mühlhausen 278 Oberstdorf 360 Freudenstadt 448 Around Mühlhausen 279 Berchtesgaden & Kinzigtal 449 Kyffhäuser Mountains 279 Berchtesgadener Land 361 SOUTHERN BLACK THURINGIAN FOREST 280 FRANCONIA 364 FOREST 452 Eisenach 280 Nuremberg 364 Freiburg 452 Friedrichroda 284 Bamberg 374 Around Freiburg 458 Ilmenau 285 Bayreuth 378 West of Freiburg 458 Schmalkalden 286 Coburg 380 Northeast of Freiburg 460 Meiningen 288 Around Coburg 382 Southeast of Freiburg 464 THE SAALE VALLEY 289 Altmühltal Nature Park 382 LAKE CONSTANCE 467 Jena 289 Eichstätt 383 Konstanz 468 Around Jena 292 Ingolstadt 385 Around Konstanz 472 Rudolstadt 292 EASTERN BAVARIA 388 Meersburg 473 Saalfeld 293 Regensburg 388 Around Meersburg 474 Around Regensburg 393 Friedrichshafen 475 Landshut 394 Ravensburg 476 Bavaria 294 Straubing 395 Lindau 477 MUNICH 295 Passau 396 History 295 Marktl am Inn 399 Orientation 297 Bavarian Forest 399 Rhineland- Information 298 Palatinate Dangers & Annoyances 307 Baden- & Saarland 480 Sights 307 RHINE-HESSE Activities 316 Württemberg 402 & PALATINATE 482 Walking Tour 316 STUTTGART 403 Mainz 482 Courses 318 History 404 Worms 487 Munich for Children 318 Orientation 404 Speyer 490 Tours 319 Information 405 German Wine Road 492 Festivals & Events 319 Sights 405 AHR VALLEY & THE EIFEL 496
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Remagen 496 Around Bonn 585 Bad Neuenahr & Ahrweiler 496 Aachen 585 Bremen 660 Altenahr 498 Eifel National Park 589 BREMEN CITY 661 Nürburgring 498 THE RUHRGEBIET 590 History 661 Maria Laach 499 Essen 590 Orientation 661 THE ROMANTIC RHINE 499 Dortmund 594 Information 661 Koblenz 501 Elsewhere in the Dangers & Annoyances 661 Braubach 504 Ruhrgebiet 597 Sights & Activities 663 Boppard 504 WESTPHALIA 599 Tours 665 St Goar 506 Münster 599 Sleeping 665 St Goarshausen & Loreley 507 Around Münster 603 Eating 666 Oberwesel 507 Soest 604 Drinking 667 Bacharach 508 Paderborn 605 Entertainment 668 Bacharach to Bingen 508 SAUERLAND 608 Shopping 668 Bingen 509 Altena 608 Rüdesheim 511 Attendorn 608 Getting There & Away 668 Around Rüdesheim 511 Winterberg 609 Getting Around 669 THE MOSELLE VALLEY 512 SIEGERLAND 609 AROUND BREMEN 669 Trier 512 Siegen 609 Bremerhaven 669 Bernkastel-Kues 517 Around Siegen 610 Worpswede 672 Traben-Trarbach 518 Cochem 520 Around Cochem 520 Lower Saxony 611 Hamburg 674 HUNSRÜCK MOUNTAINS 520 Hanover 612 History 675 Idar-Oberstein 520 Around Hanover 622 Orientation 675 SAARLAND 521 FAIRY-TALE ROAD – Information 675 Saarbrücken 522 SOUTH 622 Dangers& Annoyances 676 Völklinger Hütte 525 Hamelin & Around 623 Sights 676 Mettlach 525 Bodenwerder 625 Activities 683 Around Mettlach 525 Bad Karlshafen 625 Courses 683 Perl-Nennig 525 LÜNEBURGER HEIDE 626 Europäischer Kulturpark Tours 684 Bliesbruck-Reinheim 526 Celle 626 Festivals & Events 685 Bergen-Belsen 629 Sleeping 685 Lüneburg 630 Eating 690 Hesse 527 Naturpark Elbufer-Drawehn 633 Drinking 694 Frankfurt am Main 528 SOUTH & EAST OF HANOVER 633 Entertainment 695 Darmstadt 544 Shopping 697 Around Darmstadt 546 Hildesheim 633 Braunschweig 635 Getting There & Away 697 Wiesbaden 546 Getting Around 698 Lahn Valley 549 Wolfenbüttel 640 AROUND HAMBURG 699 Marburg 549 Wolfsburg 640 Nationalpark Kellerwald- Göttingen 644 Edersee 553 WEST OF HANOVER 648 Schleswig-Holstein Fulda 553 Osnabrück 648 700 Around Fulda 554 Varusschlacht Museum & Lübeck 701 Kassel 554 Park Kalkriese 651 Around Lübeck 707 Oldenburg 651 Naturpark Emden & Around 652 Holsteinische Schweiz 708 North Rhine– Jever 654 Kiel 708 Westphalia 557 EAST FRISIAN ISLANDS 656 Around Kiel 711 THE RHINELAND 558 Wangerooge 657 Schleswig 712 Düsseldorf 558 Spiekeroog 657 Flensburg 715 Around Düsseldorf 566 Langeoog 658 Glücksburg 717 Lower Rhine 566 Baltrum 658 Husum & the Halligen 717 Cologne 568 Norderney 658 NORTH FRISIAN ISLANDS 719 Brühl 579 Juist 659 Sylt 719 Bonn 580 Borkum 659 Föhr 723
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Amrum 724 IN GERMANY 789 Helgoland 724 Transport 773 Availability & GETTING THERE & AWAY 773 Cost of Health Care 789 Mecklenburg– Entering the Country 773 Travellers’ Diarrhoea 790 Air 773 Environmental Hazards 790 Western Pomerania 725 Land 776 Sexual Health 790 MECKLENBURGER Lake 778 Travelling with Children 790 S E E N P L A T T E 7 2 6 Sea 778 Women’s Health 790 Schwerin 726 GETTING AROUND 780 Ludwigslust 730 Air 780 Güstrow 730 Language 791 Neubrandenburg 731 Bicycle 780 Müritz National Park 733 Boat 780 COASTAL MECKLENBURG 733 Bus 781 Glossary 799 Rostock 733 Car & Motorcycle 781 Bad Doberan Hitching & Ride-Share 784 & Coastal Resorts 740 Local Transport 784 The Authors 802 Wismar 741 Train 786 Darss-Zingst Peninsula 743 WESTERN POMERANIA 744 Behind the Scenes 804 Stralsund 744 Health 789 Rügen Island 747 BEFORE YOU GO 789 Index Hiddensee Island 753 Insurance 789 807 Greifswald 754 Recommended Vaccinations 789 Usedom Island 755 IN TRANSIT 789 GreenDex 826 Deep Vein Directory 756 Thrombosis (DVT) 789 Map Legend 828 Accommodation 756 Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 789 Activities 759 Business Hours 762 Children 763 Regional Map Contents Climate Charts 763 Courses 764 Customs & Regulations 765 Dangers & Annoyances 765 Discount Cards 765 Schleswig-Holstein p701 Embassies & Consulates 765 Mecklenburg–Western Hamburg Pomerania p727 Food 766 Bremen p675 p661 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 766 Holidays 766 Lower Saxony pp614-15 Berlin Insurance 767 p103 Saxony-Anhalt p218 Brandenburg Internet Access 767 p156 Legal Matters 767 North Rhine–Westphalia Harz Mountains p558 p241 Maps 768 Saxony Money 768 Thuringia p176 Hesse p262 Photography 768 p528 Post 769 Rhineland-Palatinate & Shopping 769 Saarland p481 Solo Travellers 769 Telephone & Fax 770 Bavaria Time 770 pp296-7 Baden-Württemberg Tourist Information 771 p404 Travellers with Disabilities 771 Visas 771 Women Travellers 772 Work 772
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