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Simple ISSUE NO. 74 JULY/AUGUST 2001 ELECTRONIC EDITION CONTENTS [TOUCH ANY TITLE TO BE TAKEN TO THAT PAGE] Sussing out The satay can be made of or chicken, but Sussing Out Satay...... 1 turtle remains the favourite of the Balinese of Den Pasar. —M. Covarrubias, ISLAND OF A search for the soul of satay leads to a voyage of discovery to the places (1937). The crouch over their portable stoves, fanning the embers below where the art of is pared sticks of spicy broiled goat known as satay. right to the bone. —P. Anderson, WINE (1955). One of the most famous Malay dishes is satay which Hanging Out at the No-Name...11 is tenderized and spiced mutton, chicken, or Greg tells how he was called by a higher barbecued over and dipped in power to bring manna to the masses. a chilli-hot . They are served skewered. — Tourist Promotion Table Talk...... 13 Board, CARRY SINGAPORE IN YOUR POCKET (1971). W. Brian Overcast fondly recalls a cool VERY SPRING, when I freed our grill operator in his grade-school . from its protective wrappings and ended George Orick reports on satay today its hibernation, I used to vow that this E in . We go deep into the vault would be the year that I’d begin grilling satay. for reviews of THE COOKING OF SINGAPORE But when autumn rolled in and I stowed it away and ASIAN GRILLS. again, there would be no charred remnants of spicy chicken or beef drippings to feed its winter RECIPE INDEX sleep. The reason, although it took me a long time to grasp this, was my love-hate relationship BEEF SATAY...... 7 with this particular grill . More accurately, RATAMI’S LAMB SATAY ...... 8 I was always stopped short by the invisible barrier that deflects my attention from dishes PORK SATAY...... 8 that I really like but that always seem to be doled out with a grudging hand. CHICKEN SATAY ...... 8 The Chinese claim satay as their own, SATAY PENTUL ...... 9 on the strength of the fact that in Cantonese the words “sah tay” mean “three pieces.” SATAY ...... 9 Actually, food historians believe that satay SATAY DIPPING ...... 10 was introduced to by Arab traders, but it surely could be argued that #1, PEANUT SAUCE #2, PEANUT SAUCE #3, PEANUT SAUCE #4, KECAP, Chinese restaurateurs use this semantic false TANGY SAUCE friend as justification for rigorous portion control—sometimes to their own detriment. THAI CUCUMBER ...... 16 A few decades back, when I lived near WALDO’S SECRET SAUCE ...... 17 Boston, a satay place appeared one day in that city’s Chinatown. The satays were very good, meat now that they can buy it fresh several but an order consisted of four , each times a day. However, perhaps the most telling with a single flattened strip of meat, and cost as signs of change are there in full view in our local much as the far more generous entrées served Asian market: sagging shelves loaded with at any of the nearby Chinese . The bottled Southeast Asian dips and mari- second and last time I was there, gnawing away nades—even cellophane-wrapped blocks of at my miniscule repast, the proprietor was ground seasoned with chile, , counting the day’s take with an impassive , and for making instant peanut expression that somehow managed to fill the sauce. And these products were all strictly small with gloom. I wanted to go homegrown, quite distinct from the Bali-Hai-type over, seize him by both shoulders, and say with stuff you find in American supermarkets. emphatic firmness: Try“ doubling the portion This means that my quest to touch the size.” I didn’t, of course, and I found the place soul of satay has inevitably been a quixotic one. closed for good the next time I came by. But doesn’t that adjective characterize the Surely, this aura of stinginess was what experience of all travelers, not only those who prevented me from plunging wholeheartedly wander abroad through the dusty pages of old into satay making—as distinct, that is, from books? Without the romance of the different, satay . I never had any trouble devouring why would anyone ever leave home at all? it, but preparing it seemed altogether too complicated a business for what was essentially a . Over the years, I had accumulated a When the sun goes down, tiny outdoor satay stalls open for business along busy thorough- pile of recipes for the dish, but none of them fares, their flickering candles and gas lanterns dealt with the problem of how to transform this inviting passers-by to sit down for an inexpensive into a satisfying . treat. In any town the itinerant satay vendor, So, this spring, I lay my hand on my grill ringing his bell and shuffling through the streets and swore I would sidestep the recipe pile and with all his ingredients and his charcoal brazier head off to the library to learn all I could about slung from the ends of a pole across his shoulder, satay as it is made and eaten on its own turf. seems to stay up long after everyone else has After all, what good were the recipes to me if I gone to sleep. Throughout most of this pre– didn’t ever seem to want to make them? I was dominantly Muslim area, beef, goat, and chicken missing something important...and I hoped are the most common satay , but carabao that immersion in some amateur culinary [water buffalo] satay appears in Makasar, ethnography would provide a clue as to what satay turns up wherever are available, that something was. and in Chinese areas one can find satay made from tender chunks of pork. The Balinese Happily, I found a raft of books on produce a satay from a of chopped-up Southeast Asia, some dating back to the turtle meat mixed with milk and spices. beginning of the last century, and bits of prose The mixture, kneaded onto the end of a stick for here and there—sometimes a phrase, sometimes grilling, comes off the coals as one of the most a paragraph—helped me find my way to the heavenly concoctions I have ever tasted. heart of traditional satay. Of course, what this —Rafael Steinberg, PACIFIC AND also meant is that what I discovered was, SOUTHEAST ASIAN COOKING (1970) except in the most isolated parts of Southeast ATAY* IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER has made itself Asia, completely out of date. That part of the at home in almost every country in world is in a state of rapid change, which has Southeast Asia. And while the number of S E profoundly affected even the lowly outdoor different foodstuffs grilled on skewers there is LECTRONIC seller of . nearly beyond count, no one would have a Singapore, once famous for its satay problem recognizing them as satay. Indeed, if street vendors, has, for reasons of sanitation. simple cooking can be loosely defined as those relocated almost all of them to indoor food E dishes whose form is almost entirely shaped by DITION courts, thus relegating the vitality and variety function, satay is about as good an example as of that world to the realm of memory. Reader one could hope to find. It is a dish whose George Orick reports that satay vendors in rigorous simplicity has been honed by the Jakarta no longer bother to marinate their page two Simple Cooking 74 ELECTRONIC EDITION satay satay paste andwrappedaroundthickskewersgrilled. aa Bl empol Bali satay rolled aroundthickskewersandgrilled. kecil babi satay satay ayam tusuk in EastJava. with peanut sauce. It is a specialty of the city of Pasuruan satay kalong name sataysuggests. the as grilled and skewered not leaf, banana a in steamed satay manis skewers; itisaspecialtyofManado,NorthSulawesi. satay kelinci satay buntel and grated coconut rolled around thick skewers and grilled. satay kerang of Tawangmangu, Central . satay kambing when thefruitbats(kalong)alsomaketheirappearance. Java, is sold by vendors who begin selling in the early evening served with a special sauce. This specialty of , West and mixture sweet a with flavored are They skewers. kebelet Bali satay coconut milkrolledaroundthickskewersandgrilled. satay ayam sweet-sour saucegrilledonthinbambooskewers. asam satay satay udang are protected. Balinese specialty is not as prevalent today because turtles asam Bali satay toothpicks. satay penyu satay called also is specialty Balinese this grilled; and skewers around pentul satay satay ampla guide book lists almost two dozen, described as so. be wanting for recipes to fill its pages—inYou couldIndonesia devote alone,an entireone to satay making and not satay panas a specialtyofWestSumatra. belida ikan satay satay Bali limbat skewers andgrilled. chopped meat, spices and , rolled around thick satay palm and sweet , then grilled on skewers. ayam lilit satay of , . satay empalikan and grilled on skewers; a specialty of Surakarta, . July/August 2001 S OURCE ~ satay pusut E AT S MART ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ balls of minced pork wrapped like drumsticks like wrapped pork minced of balls small pieces of meat marinated in sauce containing Pasuruan chicken grilled on skewers and served rabbit meat grilled on skewers; it is a specialty pieces of turtle meat grilled on skewers. This skewers. on grilled meat turtle of pieces ~ balls of minced lamb and onion wrapped in caul clams grilled on skewers; it is a specialty chicken gizzardsgrilledonskewers. ai kmig hns f ab r ot in goat or lamb of chunks kambing manis shrimp grilledonskewers. an assortmentoffoodshotfromthegrill. pieces of beef pounded very flat and grilled on

~ IN ~ pieces of marinated offal grilled on skewers, I skewered andgrilledlamb. ~ small pieces of marinated pork grilled on grilled pork marinated of pieces small

~ ~ ~ (lembat) NDONESIA ~ ~ ~ pcs n cikn et one t a to pounded meat chicken and spices ~ small cubes of grilled pork served on on served pork grilled of cubes small a piquant paste of minced, spiced pork spiced minced, of paste piquant a fish ballsgrilledonskewers. . balls of minced knifefish and sago and knifefish minced of balls pse f hpe ma, pcs and spices meat, chopped of paste a grilled balls of minced chicken on skewers. a paste of liver covered by a paste of paste a by covered liver of paste a , Joan andDavidPeterson (GinkgoPress,1997). ~ a paste of chopped meat, spices Jakarta Post in year last appeared day typical whose As an anonymous satay seller—the account of get to carcass. of kind way any from mileage ideal maximum an is a on meat of gathered for free by your children. been have that leaves palm of the from toothpick. Best of all, these skewers are made that, the bill...perhaps even the complimentary cooking implement is the eating implement and, after the with; deal to utensils eating or the used skewers. There are no plates or bowls is full and you the reckon bill by counting up another on the flames, and so it goes until he first skewer. While he nibbles at that you put have just one. In places where business is slower, you might you might have cooking two dozen skewers the on the let grill. and smells reel in your clientele. On roadside a busy street, the on there squat enticing Youjust vendibles. your the of particulars out cry to lungs of pair strong a even or signage need Youdon’t customers. or some cousin of it, , and spice. nuances of caramelized , soy sauce knee-jerk juices response meat is grill: amplifiedvaporizing on by barbecue glowing charcoal...but here this the the additional hit the when distraction to neighbors the drives which that as same the essentially is satay the of aroma The street. of market Asian Southeast cacophony the all through attention your of hold seize and out seek can that one all, begin by describing its intoxicating aroma, traveler to the region, if they mention satay at ingredient: richly seasoned meat. luxurious very usually a of is solely it made because impressive more the all is This poverty. of solidity immovable the overcoming appetite of ingenuity persistent 0 (i cns pr hce t a to Rp chicken for per bones cents) and (six heads 700 I the satay; sell the even for can used be can parts chicken chickens the of all the Almost myself. satay the clean make and I ($17.45). 200,000 Rp chickens and other needs. They (in cost me about market Abang Tanah to Central Jakarta) go to buy I three or a.m. four live 8 young At up andcook them. them chop will who vendor ) (chicken Obviously, grilling small bits and pieces the him pass you stops, buyer a When get to way better a imagine to hard It’s after Traveler happened? this has How (15 October 2000)—explains: pagethree i ayam mie The

Even so, since he charges customers their curved sides, make it difficult to get the only about twenty-five cents per skewer, he can meat close to the charcoal. Gas grills don’t afford to leave no part of what he does to generate enough heat to caramelize the exterior chance. The same marinade that provides the without at the same time cooking the interior to satay with its depth of flavor also keeps the the consistency of beef . meat from spoiling as it sits all day in a large Fortunately, there was an obvious solution recycled tin container by the vendor’s side. The to all this. I headed down to the local discount marinade tenderizes the meat, which—in days warehouse and bought the cheapest grill in the past, at least—came from tough, cheap cuts of store. Made in , it was no more than a goat, water buffalo, and stringy old fowl, while metal box with four little legs screwed onto the the homemade peanut sauce that accompanies base, a grill rack, and a cover. True, the sides the dish—made by the vendor’s wife—provides sloped down to the bottom, but they were so the unctuous savor that, in more expensive short that it was easy to heap the charcoal up meat, is supplied by the animal’s own fat. them. The grill was flimsy, even junky—but for In sum, satay as made on its own turf is satay making, it felt just right. a dish with no rough edges, and it was a lack of such carefully considered fine tuning that made my own satay making so frustrating. Gradually, THE skewers. One of the things you notice as I pored over pictures in various travel books immediately in photographs of satay vendors is and read such accounts of satay making as I that the skewers they use are substantially could find, I began to feel the peculiar satisfaction longer than the ubiquitous 8-inch bamboo that comes when problems at last come into ones sold at most supermarkets. But because focus and solutions start to slot themselves the latter were the very things on which I had into place. eaten satay in Chinese restaurants, I had assumed that they were what one wanted for the job. And they are, if the job is that of serving THE SATAY GRILL. The vernacular satay grill is up appetizers—or perhaps even cooking them, simplicity itself—a narrow, rectangular, when that means them on the surface rolled-steel box with a grill rack on top whose of a grill. This is why the meat on bars run the length of the unit. Unlike home such skewers is often flat as a board; the grills, this one has no air vent at the bottom. has only to give it a quick sear on both sides and Consequently, between orders, only a minimal send it out. But over charcoal, the length of the amount of oxygen reaches the coals—just enough harder-to-find 10-inch skewers (or the even to keep them smoldering. The only barbecue harder-to-find 12-inch ones) gives you not only grill available in this country that even a necessary safety margin but leverage, making approaches this design is our old friend the the satays easier to manipulate as they . Japanese hibachi, which, with its wobbly grills The next decision is between metal and and miniscule cooking area, has confounded bamboo. Metal skewers heat up, cooking the American outdoor cooks since its introduction interior of the meat and providing another back in the early sixties. However, most threat to the fingers. I also like the way the American-made units pose equally serious slight texture of the wood helps keeps the problems for satay grilling. Kettle grills, with skewered meat from slipping loose, which is not always true of metal skewers, even when they are flat.

The main problem with bamboo skewers, E of course, is that they burn. It doesn’t much LECTRONIC matter if the tips flare up, but even insignificant charring at the butt end can cause the skewer

to give way and send the meat tumbling onto E the grill. To prevent this, advise you DITION to presoak the skewers for anything from half an hour to half a day. However, even if it works (which I doubt), I have come across no evidence page four Simple Cooking 74 LECTRONIC DITION a folded strip of aluminum foil. on your own grill with a piece of scrap metal shown or grill below.) Such satay a lip is easy restaurant enough to improvise the of top the while fully exposing the meat to the flame. (See the exposed wood of the skewer at both ends, both their front and back edges. This protects on lip metal a have grills Satay flame. the to simpler secret: they don’t expose the skewers even an have They this. do sellers satay that E each time one is taken off. fire the on skewer new a putting own, their manage everyone let and table the on E enjoyable way to make satays is to put the grill as I do and just lean over and blow. powerful but focused gust of air. Or a generate you will can that trowel—anything do garden something along the lines of a flour scoop or a probably is this for tool non-electric best The blast will send charcoal ashes idea flyingwith everywhere.an ordinary grill—their good a such they’re sure not I’m case, any In indiscriminate may still be able to you ago; buy years twenty them about Orleans today, New in but where? fan was when I palm a saw I bicycledtime last The aglow. constantly past them keep a to funeral them fan you processionwhen especially heat, much so generate they because satay cooking for ideal are charcoal real of Chunks day long. As the Jakarta satay all vendor it do to have you if job easy an mass—not explains: the smoldering charcoal into a fiercely transform glowing to fan palm-leaf a of use vigorous the by provided heat intense the over cooked THE fuel and the fan. July/August 2001 the taste. affects it because this fans do don’t electric I but instead, use vendors other that know I sore. and stiff arms my made which process, cooking the during satay the fan manually to quite was difficult in job the this beginning, especially with when dealing I had that found I ial, ts ot ntn ta a very a that noting worth it’s Finally, Satays are traditionally in the Burmese town of Taungdwingyi: how this is made, at least at the outdoor market sold with short. But in Southeastappetizer mode, the questionAsia, will bring you up satays satayare has...what? commonlyIf and you slices; breadfruit only grilled its know has it,chicken as I did, in cornbread; fajitas have their snack foodflour into a tortillas; a transformingmeal. to Barbecue secret jerkedhas the equation,its satay side of This,itturns out, was the missing part ofthe problem—what given on sauce lime tangy the as such one, astringent between that sauce and a different, piecemore purelyof meat and to varya long way—the trick the is to dip, effectnot dunk, each by alternating things. The first is simply that a little of it goes on permanent hold, I discovered two important with sauce when eating my own barbecue. have I way altogether,the it with dispense to that of the meat. In even fact, sometimes and marinade, I flame-seared was seriously tempted as it gives, since it drowns out the taste of the sauce can easily take away as much pleasure the meat is tender, flavorful, and juicy, such a However,if chiles. Asian Southeast of scorch paste often and which sauce, combines the opulent dipping richness of both peanut peanut cially dipping sauces the as and the Sauce THE whole point of satay—espe- AND cold boiled . R. Talbot-Kelly, in cooked, is extracted. The beautifullyrice, cooked.the andsplit, then isbamboo is rice the burn to commences and into dried is bamboo the put time the by and fire; the plug a with closed being then green of] [length bamboo, a together in with a placed little iswater, “kowknyin”the bamboo calledrice of kindspecial A way.curious a in prepared rice of “sticks” be to however,prove These, size. unusual of candles be to appear containingbasketwhat a of rim theround all is stuck are strips, which skewers, bamboo small on spitted into cut meat, roast There, next is wafted the delicious smell simmerof over ricesandalwood. a and little charcoal one fire, In while food. from of the sale the forstalls are bazaar the of corners all [I]n D ESCRIBED h scn ws on u i a larger a in up bound was second The sauce peanut put I before Fortunately, page 16

coconut milk with the palate-tingling (1905), gives a nice description of starch —a of tightly compressed . to have with this meal.thiswithhaveto . ay e the see Many B pagefive URMA P AINTED

Today, in rural , roadside vendors still sell ketupat wrapped in square, Ingredient Glossary woven coconut-leaf bundles. They must be a Dark Soy Sauce. A thicker, somewhat sweeter soy sauce with a neat sight. Several Southeast Asian cookbooks distinct taste of . (When plain “soy sauce” is specified, tell you how to make the dish more simply—you use the familiar thinner version, such as Kikkoman.) Found in put fully cooked short-grain rice into a greased Asian groceries. pan, press it flat, cover it with banana leaves (if . A potent made from pressing the juices you have any) or foil (if you don’t), let it cool, from salted . Not easy to take straight, but a then serve it cut into brownie-size squares. surprisingly subtle flavor enhancer when used in cooking. Available This is an especially appealing idea if the satay in any Asian grocery store and many supermarkets. is to be part of a picnic. Skewer the meat, Kecap manis (KET-CHAP MAH-NIECE). A made from snipping off the pointed ends with fermented soy beans and palm sugar. In its native Indonesia, it shears, and seal these skewers and the marinade is used with the same abandon that we use...well, . The in a Ziploc plastic bag. Put that and your rice taste starts out like very salty blackstrap molasses and then squares in the cooler and you’re ready to travel. moves into a riff of complex and unplaceable tangy notes. If you Even so, there are other alternatives, can’t find it, mix palm sugar (see below) with dark soy sauce until including —an unlikely suggestion put the is balanced by the sweet. forth by Nancie McDermott in REAL VEGETARIAN Lemongrass. A tall, narrow grass with slender, razor-edged THAI. Yes, our old pal has been leaves. Its stalk has a distinct taste of , without that enthusiastically embraced by the Thai for just fruit’s acidity. Peel off the leaves down to the pale and tightly coiled stalk. Cut away a 3-inch piece of this about an inch above this purpose. the root end and discard the rest. This piece of stalk is very You will find this West-meets-East touch in fibrous—if it is to be eaten, it must be minced or thinly sliced. upcountry , where toast is offered When using it as a flavoring agent, though, simply flatten it a bit alongside meat as a means of soaking with the side of a knife and add it whole to the pot. Lemongrass up every last bit of scrumptious sauce. can be found in supermarkets these days, but it is much cheaper in Asian groceries. Substitute strips of lemon peel. However, Matt and I prefer to cook up either a batch of boiled rice or a package of Palm sugar. A coarse-textured sugar made from the sap of the rice-stick and portion one or the other Palmyra palm, usually sold as a solid mass in a package or jar, from which one hacks chunks and grinds them into a moist into shallow bowls, serving the grilled powder. It is not as sweet as cane sugar and possesses a satays directly on top. By the time you’ve slightly sour tang and sappy taste. Substitute raw cane finished eating those, the rice or rice noodles sugar—especially one made from evaporated sugar cane juice. will be delicately flavored by the smoky juices Papaya Extract. I began my research wondering if satay sellers of the meat. Stir it up with the remaining use papaya—which contains papain, an enzyme with meat- peanut sauce, the last of the cucumber wedges, tenderizing properties—as a secret ingredient in their marinades. and any other leftover . There you I failed to uncover a single mention of it. But by then I had already have it: two of my favorite Asian snacks—a bought some tablets of pure papain at our local natural food store brace of satay, a particularly delicious version (sold as a digestive aid), so I gave it a try anyway—crushing two of rice or noodles tossed with peanut sauce...and 7-mg. tablets and adding the powder to marinades for both lamb a made meal. and beef. Potent stuff: overnight, it turned beef short rib into something like tenderloin. The lamb was noticeably more tender after an hour. Purely optional, but worth exploring. Sambal Oelek. A fiery, bright-red sauce made from ground chiles (including seeds), , and salt. Look for Huy Fong Rooster brand with its gold foil label in a plastic 8-ounce jar with

a green lid. When we buy a new jar, Matt removes the seeds by E

pushing the sauce through a sieve, which makes it much easier LECTRONIC to use. Substitute fresh hot chiles, seeded and minced, or ground hot chile powder to taste.

Tamarind Paste. This is made by drying and compacting the E

pulpy contents of the pods of the . Squares of DITION this, looking like thick slabs of fruit leather and colored a deep rusty red, can be found in any Asian grocery. The -like flavor is mild and fruity; what makes it special is its distinctive bright acidity. The dried product contains fiber and seeds, so it is page six Simple Cooking 74 LECTRONIC DITION

E E flakes .WeuseThai Kitchen brand. widely available in cans. Look forcoconut those containingmilk no sweeteners ornutty taste. Substitute the cookingSoutheast Asia—and oil for us, too—becauseof yourofits clean, choice.slightly onions may be substituted. Bombayonions popular in Southeast Asian cooking. Small yellow Et cetera. debris. the Substitute discarding lemon or and lime sieve juice a if these through are pulp not already soluble called the for. necessary to dissolve the paste in a little hot water, pressing July/August 2001 for about 2 minutes to the flame. Check flame. the to minutes 2 about for exposed is side each that so skewers the Turn tongs.) with skewers the bamboo turn and exposed any off snip this inches instance, (In 2 broiler. oven preheated choice, a below second distant a or, charcoal glowing over directly grilled be handle makes them easier to manipulate. of plenty cooked—and evenly everything add too much and you’ll find it hard to get meat should take up a third of the skewer; edges but juicy and moist in the center.bite-size The pieces that are charred around the being turned back into a loaf. of sliceslike Thistogether them Skewer gives you than less little a squares, be easy to find in a decent Asian flavor grocery. (a we weren’t. None leaves fertilizer)—thatare expensive and all plant should of reminiscent and day) hair passthose—like ( onbada by- to paste—and tamarind lemongrass, were I particularly and taken Matt with—kecap ingredients Asianmanis, Southeast been crafted to show off the merits of thosehave recipesthese that note However,do purchasing. in point the see don’t or find for alternatives to ingredients that you can’t you can leave it there overnight). or 2 hours or more marinatein thefor refrigerator1 hour (covered,or so at room temperature G M S can usually be found for sale in bulk at natural food stores. S UBSTITUTING KEWERING RILLING ARINATING —the coconut milk called for in the following recipes—is THE RECIPES . All the following satays should are the universal substitute for the small, brown . The meat should be allowed to . Cut the meat into 1-inch 1-inch into meat the Cut . . Consult the glossary above Peanut oil

is the of choice in 1

/ Unsweetenedcoconut 2 nh thick. inch Unsweetened 1 1 teaspoonsambaloelek 1 of Singapore’s Tiger , Indonesia’s Indonesia’s beer, Tiger Singapore’s of on hand a pitcher of iced or cold bottles boiled green beans, par- etc. peas,You vegetables— sugarsnap wedges,might cucumber also summer have prepared plainly Thai simple a cucumber either salad and (see noodles rice skewer and calculate serving 6 to 8. satay as an appetizer, put less meatand a on half each of meat of should plenty serve (with4. peanutIf mealoffering sauce familyto main take a up the of any as courseslack), a served pound but pavement, hot skewers evaporate as fast as spilled ice on and pork chicken justpastthatpoint. center; the at pink be should lamb and pieces beef blade: two knife a with spreading apart by doneness for temperature for an hour or so. Thread Thread so. or hour an for temperature pieces are coated and let marinate at room bowl. Stir the meat into this so that all the a in ingredients marinade remaining the with this powder.Mix coarse a into them process or crush handle, to enough cool When hot, color. change to a begin and aroma in seeds their release they until skillet ungreased the Toast (Adaptedfrom Jackie Passmore’s and/or ginger for . coconut naturally, and, brews),top-rated Bintang Pilsener, or Thailand’s Siam Ale (all / 1 smallshallot,minced 2 poundsbeef,cutintobite-sizepieces(seeabove) P S ORTIONING ERVING 1 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1 tablespoonmincedfresh 1 / peanut sauce#4(seepage16) 1 2 . As side dishes, we suggest rice or 2 teaspoonscorianderseed / 2 tablespoonskecapmanis teaspoonsmincedlemongrass 2 2 tablespoonspeanutoil teaspoonsalt(ortotaste) . Tailgaters may find that the that find Tailgatersmay . B EEF marinade S E page 16 • NCYCLOPEDIA • 1tablespoonpalmsugar 1clovegarlic,minced ATAY

OF ) or a variety of A SIAN page seven F OOD

AND C OOKING ) meat onto skewers and grill over charcoal grill over charcoal as directed above. Serve as directed above. Serve immediately with immediately with sambal kecap for dipping. peanut sauce for dipping. CHICKEN SATAY RATAMI’S LAMB SATAY We found two very similar marinades for (Adapted from Rosemary Brissenden’s SOUTH EAST ASIAN FOOD) chicken in Wandee Young and Byron MARINADE Ayanoglu’s SIMPLY THAI COOKING and Bruce • 1 teaspoon tamarind paste 1 tablespoon hot water Cost’s ASIAN INGREDIENTS, each of which 2 garlic, minced • 1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste) produced a very different but equally 2 medium or 1 large , grated pleasing result. To try our adaptation of the 1 tablespoon palm sugar Young/Ayanoglu version, add the ingredi- ents on the left of the bar to the rest in the list; 11/2 tablespoons lemon juice to try our version of the Cost recipe, choose 2 tablespoons kecap manis just the tamarind pulp on the right. 11/2 pounds lamb, cut into bite-size pieces (see above) Marinade peanut sauce #1 (see page 10) 1 teaspoon EACH coriander seeds, seeds, black •Dissolve the tamarind paste in the hot peppercorns water and press the pulp through a sieve. 1 tablespoon palm sugar • 1/2 tablespoon fish sauce Mix this with the remaining marinade 2 large cloves garlic, minced •1 tablespoon peanut oil ingredients in a bowl. Stir the meat into this 11/2 pounds boneless chicken thighs, so that all the pieces are coated and let marinate at room temperature for an hour 1 tablespoon lime juice 1/2 tablespoon tamarind or so. Thread meat onto skewers and grill 1 tablespoon soy sauce paste dissolved in 3 table- over charcoal as directed above. Serve spoons of water, seeds and 1/2 teaspoon immediately with peanut sauce for dipping. fiber strained out cut into bite-size pieces (see above) PORK SATAY peanut sauce #2 (page 10) and tangy lime sauce (page 16) (Adapted from Sri Owen’s INDONESIAN FOOD AND COOKERY) • Sri Owen says that Indonesians don’t often Toast the coriander and cumin seeds and eat pork satay with peanut sauce, preferring black peppercorns together in a hot, to dip it into sambal kecap instead—which, ungreased skillet until they release their as it turns out, is an excellent alternative aroma and begin to change color. Pour them for any satay. into a mortar or food processor and pulverize them into a powder. Combine with the other MARINADE marinade ingredients in a bowl and mix 2 cloves garlic, minced thoroughly. Toss the chicken pieces into this 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder 2 hours. Thread meat onto skewers and grill • 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon peanut oil over charcoal as directed above. Serve 1 tablespoon kecap manis • 2 teaspoons lemon juice E

immediately with peanut sauce and tangy LECTRONIC 11/2 pounds pork tenderloin, cut into pieces (see lime sauce for dipping. above) sambal kecap (see page 16) E

• Combine the marinade ingredients in a DITION bowl, stir in the pork, and let marinate for an hour or so at room temperature, stirring occasionally. Thread meat onto skewers and page eight Simple Cooking 74 ELECTRONIC EDITION peanut sauce#3and/orsambalkecap(seepage 16)

July/August 2001 1 h bw i te ergrtr n lt the let contents and cool and firm refrigerator for at the least an hour. in bowl the Put mass. sticky a into thoroughly thing every- blend and ingredients, remaining the all add bowl, garlic, a into this Turn the paste. blend coriander, ginger, and processor, sambal oelek into a food or coriander the seeds Toast in a Strain. hot, ungreased minutes. skillet.5 In a mortar • into pattiesandgrilledlikehamburgers.) shaped be also can mixture (The sticks. chop- use or pencil) a as thick as (about skewers stubbier for Look fast. mixture don’t have enough surface to hold the meat on satayknownas result being a delicious Balinese variation bamboo skewers and got his nephew to large grill it, the around paste the twirled then he , and spices in various mixing After hour. full another for it pole a took which served mortar, as the pestle, wooden and pummelled oversized have obliterated. But no, he transferred it to an might you been had tendon and fibre every time thought which by an hour, for handful, after handful meat, the tomahawk and used the blunt end to bash two a took man old the First chicken paste. a to meat spend raw pounding house hours the laborious of grandfather the watched I Bali, in compound family writes Burton David / 2 or3tablespoonsunsweetenedcoconutflakes Steep the tamarind paste in the water for 4 teaspoon turmeric teaspoonturmeric C 1 tablespoonsoysauce OOK 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger mincedfresh 1 tablespoonfinely 1 (Adapted fromDavidBurton’s 1 / 2 garliccloves,coarselychopped ’ 2 1 S pounds ground chicken(orpork) poundsground / 1 N 1 teaspooncorianderseeds / 2 tablespoontamarindpaste 2 2 tablespoonshotwater OTE S tablespoonsambaloelek ATAY . Ordinary Ordinary bamboo skewers • P satay pentul

: “In the kitchen of a of kitchen the “In : 1 / 2 ENTUL • tablespoonpalmsugar

1 S / AVOURING 2 teaspoonsalt

THE .” E AST ) 1 teaspoon 4 large yellow-fleshed potatoes,cookedintheirskins 1 tablespoonkecapmanis potatoes (like Yukon Gold) are ideal: ideal: are Gold) Yukon calculate at least (like one large potato own.Yellow-fleshed per personpotatoes my of recipe a with fla- area’s vorings that that I to found it well no problem so to come take up potatoes However,one. forrecipe a up turning luck no had I Penang, in stallhawker’s Indian an at satay potato a tastingremembered author books— Bremzen, cook- interesting other several von of—among Anya Although peanut sauce #3 and/or sambal kecap. crustywithbrownspots.Servewiththem coals, turning hot often, over auntil Grill satays dog. of are hot shape dottedminiature the all inover skewer each around • burn). Serve with any peanut them sauce. let (don’t browned lightly has side gently onto pieces thethin push skewers Then so. and or grill hour an until for each let and potatoes the temperatureroom everything atmarinate in Stir bowl. a in thisthoroughly withthe other ingredients bowl and process them into a powder. Mix Pour them into a mortar or food processor until skillet the ungreased coriander hot, seeds astart to in turn color.peppercorns bite-size cubes. Toast the coriander and the • when serving it with a meat satay. when this satay is the , half that Form a golf-ball-sizeForma amount ofthepaste Gently peel the potatoes and cut them into 1 clovegarlic,minced 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1 tablespoonmincedfresh EACH T ERRIFIC peanut sauceofyourchoice 1 1tablespoonlemonjuice /

coriander seeds and black peppercorns P 2 teaspooncurrypowder OTATO P ACIFIC • S tl m ta she that me told , 1 teaspoonsambaloelek • 1teaspoonsalt ATAY page nine dipping Sauces PEANUT SAUCE #1 (Adapted from Rosemary Brissenden’s SOUTH EAST ASIAN FOOD) Probably the most popular , found everywhere, and with a variety of flavors 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, ground to a paste depending upon the region, satays can be made 1 large or 2 small shallots, peeled and grated with mutton, chicken, or beef. Regardless of 1 cup coconut milk • 1 tablespoon palm sugar which meat you prefer, it is the peanut sauce 1 teaspoon sambal oelek that defines the ultimate taste of a satay, and on this rests the success of any satay. —Copeland 1 stem lemongrass, sliced fine Marks, THE EXOTIC OF to taste the Peanuts. Although many • Combine all the ingredients in a small pot recipes these days simply substitute peanut and heat over a medium flame, stirring butter for peanuts in peanut sauce recipes, constantly. When the mixture reaches a the sauce will be distinctly better—fresher simmer, remove from the heat. Stir in a little flavor, more appealing texture—if you take water if a thinner consistency is desired. the trouble to buy dry-roasted peanuts and Serve warm or at room temperature. grind them up yourself—or, if you can find raw peanuts, to roast them as well. To do PEANUT SAUCE #2 this, add 1 tablespoon of peanut oil for every (Adapted from Bruce Cost’s BIG BOWL NOODLES AND RICE) 1 2 / cup of peanuts to a small skillet, pour in 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, ground to a paste the raw peanuts, and heat them over a 2 fresh hot chiles, cored, seeded, and minced medium-hot flame. Shake the pan gently 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger while they cook so that the peanuts are fried 2 garlic cloves, minced on all sides. When they turn a light tan (they 1 • won’t have the golden sheen of deep-fried /3 cup coconut milk 1 tablespoon peanut oil • peanuts), turn them out onto a paper towel 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon fish sauce and let them cool. Then work them to a paste 1 teaspoon palm sugar • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice in a mortar (see illustration below) or in a 1/2 teaspoon salt • chopped fresh coriander to taste food processor set with a steel blade. The •Put all the ingredients except the fresh result should be smooth but slightly mealy, coriander into a mortar or the bowl of a food with bits of peanut all through. processor and blend until smooth. Transfer Mix and Match. Our linking of each satay to a small bowl and, when ready to serve, stir to a sauce is meant only as a suggestion—feel in the chopped fresh coriander leaves.

free to follow your own taste instead. [CONTINUED ON PAGE 16] E LECTRONIC E DITION

Peanut sauce #2 after the peanuts have been pulverized into a coarse paste. The red bits are the minced hot red chiles. Peanut sauce #2 after the coconut milk has been worked in. page ten Simple Cooking 74 LECTRONIC DITION

ovcin vn n umr n a walk-in a and summer in oven convection E dead by now,” he said morosely. “That place! A trailer Barn?” behind Randy’s Tire that in living still you Are you. about worried E appropriately, bore the logo T-shirt, His seat. the into lower even back sank and ears, her rumpled over, leaned He nose. wet up and came around to offer him a consolatory the armchair beside my desk. Sasha scrambledglum expression on his face. He slumped into a and hand one in bag paper a bearing Greg, the door. I looked up to see not a customer but feet. The bell jangled and A someone came through July/August 2001 od laig h N-ae o ar o the on carry to No-Name the leaving good, for towel the in tossed Lemay, Waldovendor, dishwasher.hot-dog only town’s the Recently, waitron-busboy- Gen-X grill Greg—the cook—and and proprietor bearded burly, sor—the Profes- the know to regular,getting a gradually become has it, beside loom that buildings commercial Victorian of row the in store book used- a owns who narrator, our Alec, diner. nameless painted, brightly tiny, a sits Street The Story So Far n t hs n Ae’ srrs, rg i for bid it—and carriedittriumphantlyaway. Greg surprise, Alec’s and his to and auction, for up recipe topping secret Waldo’s is no proper job for a real cook. Jokingly, he put is concerned, riding herd on a bunch of franks Waldo Dog tradition. But as far as the Professor aaos Ssa nrn gnl a my at gently dealer snoring various Sasha catalogs, in items off checking n hour later, I was back in the bookstore, Greg shook his head. “If I were, I’d be I’d were, I “If head. his shook Greg “ Hanging Out at Glad you stopped by,” I said. “I’ve been A Diner Story (with Recipes) LEAVE ME ALONE the No-Name

I : On a run-down part of Water

WANT TO

JUST YOU he was being a little hard on the anti-frank hot-dog haranguetrade.” touched a nerve. I thought I know what I am; I’m a hot-dog man.” over at me again. “Really. I’ve found my calling. “Go thou and peddle thy weiners.” He glanced without everything’s completely changed.” and pittance voice, the heard I today monthly But complaint. my collecting and off butt my working No-Name, the at on me, he said, “Alec, you know I’ve been hanging He shook his head at her. “Not yet, kiddo.” To she expected him to deliver if as tail, her wagging wildly began and again on his offer instantly. time Sasha took advantage of that.” about it’s and there, out world dog-eat-dog a Sasha along whenever you want. After all, it’s places to eat . And at mine, two you have you’ll “Now said. can Greg perspective,” bring won’t be the same place without you.” asked, alarm palpable in my voice. “The No-Name et t I h tks t Im u o lc. He luck.” of out I’m it, groaned. “And I just takes he If it. left pick it up in a few days at the lot where to Waldo supposed he’s fact, In offer. an him made already who’s Haydenville in guy a there’s is, of it.” Alec—especially me, because I don’t know yet and what’s going to come you between just as I sat there, momentarily speechless. “This is wanted to sell me his cart.” He shot me a look he if him asked “I said. he Florida,” in down I just did?” about that some other time. Do you know you tell what I’ll Cryovac. in sealed up woken have freezer in winter. One more night there and I’d “Hmm,” I said. “I see the Professor’s Professor’s the see “I said. I “Hmm,” Greg took on a faraway look and “Youintoned, what?” I asked. up jumped name, her hearing Sasha, “You’ve got to appoach this from a positive I this?” about serious really you “Are “Yeah, sort of,” Greg replied. “The thing “Was Waldo interested?” I asked. Waldo, with phone the on been “I’ve It was to my shake turn my head. know he will.” page eleven “A little hard?” Greg snorted. “How about people. As the Professor himself likes to say, totally, completely, wrong.” He leaned over to the burger is the bottom rung of a ladder that the paper sack he had put down at his feet and climbs straight up to a thick slab of .” reached inside. His hand emerged with two I nodded. “The American meal as upward soda bottles, their contents dark, their outsides mobility. Whereas the is purely moist with condensation. He handed one over proletarian fare—no interest in or hope of to me. The bottle was label-free, but there was advancement. And coming from a scrappy a legend impressed in the glass itself: IBC ROOT background that it doesn’t pay to examine too BEER. SINCE 1919. closely.” I unscrewed the cap and took a sniff. The “Exactly,” Greg said. “And, at least before aroma, a complex but soothing blend of , ginseng replaced ginger as the soda snob’s licorice, and penny candy swept me back what ingredient of choice, gingerale was the seemed a hundred years. I took a sip and let the champagne and root beer the favorite of good flavor settle on my tongue, those mellow, grassy old Joe Six-Pack...that is, when he wasn’t notes of roots and herbs that kept the sweetness reaching for a brewski.” in check, the astringent aftertaste of . “The top and the bottom of the soda “Wow!” I said. “I don’t think I’ve had one of these social scale,” I said, “separated from each other since I was a kid.” by a sloshing ocean of Coke.” Then, changing Greg took a pull on his own bottle, then the subject, I asked, “So, if you do get the cart, asked, “What do you think distinguishes this will you still feature the Waldo Dog?” stuff from every other kind of soda?” “No,” Greg said emphatically. “Everything’s My response presented itself involuntarily. going to change.” He leaned toward me “Aaaurp,” I said, and added, “It’s the only one of conspiratorially. “Wanna know the name I came them guaranteed to make you burp.” up with for this enterprise?” Greg nodded sagely. “Besides that. Take “You bet!” I said. another sip.” As I did, he went on. “Imagine “FRANK’N’STEIN,” Greg said, enunciating that, a moment before, you had just swallowed the apostrophes and watching me carefully to a mouthful of hot dog and bun, and make sure I got the full effect. When he saw I and onion sauce. Your taste buds are had, he added, “Not too shabby, huh?” quivering with violent emotion. What beverage “A stroke of genius,” I said. are they crying out for? Coke? 7Up? Mountain Greg mimed abashed modesty. “I’d better Dew?” get on the road,” he said. “I have things to do.” “Root beer, without question,” I answered. “Just one second,” I said. “Waldo’s secret “I’m beginning to catch your drift.” onion sauce recipe....” I went on hesitantly, “I “Dogs and suds,” Greg said. “Put them gather it’s not, strictly speaking, central to your together and you have one of this country’s few business plan...?” great contributions to world . This isn’t Greg looked at me in puzzlement for a about being a cook. It’s about serving a higher second. Then a grin crept across his face. cause.” “Hah,” he said. “I almost forgot who I was “You certainly provide a different bidding against.” He reached into his pants perspective on old Waldo,” I said, warming to pocket and pulled out the crumpled scrap of this thesis. “Suddenly, instead of a shiftless paper. “Here,” he said generously, “take a peek. character selling warmed-over, prefab food to Just swear you aren’t going to use it to go into other shiftless characters, he becomes an avatar competition with me.” of the old religion, pushing his mobile altar “That,” I said, “is a very easy thing to E LECTRONIC through the streets, selflessly bringing manna promise.” I studied it carefully and passed it to the people.” back. Greg regarded me suspiciously. “Not that it would really matters if you did,” “Seriously,” I said. “I buy it.” Greg said. “I’ve come up with an idea that is E We both burst out laughing. literally going to force passing cars to jam on their DITION “Okay,” Greg said, “but think about this. brakes and turn into the parking lot. It’s, like, The Professor, at heart, is a person, frankfurter magnetism, man—and it’s going to and hamburger people look down at hot-dog [CONCLUDED ON PAGE 17] page twelve Simple Cooking 74 TABLE TALK A Lunchtime Go-Between start taking orders from each kid. All right, who wants somethin’? What’s W. Brian Overcast that, Jimmy? You want a milk and fries? You gonna buy me somethin’? Another fry? N MY MIDDLE SCHOOL, everything revolved around the lunch period. All of the gossip, smooching, Okay—that’s 55 cents per fry and 35 cents for playing, and fighting happened during lunch. the milk. Oh, you want chocolate milk? Add I another 10 cents. That’ll be a dollar fifty-five It was a time for eating, but—more important—it was thirty minutes of freedom. for Jimmy.... Our sixth-grade were probably Who’s next? Mike—what you want? A like those in most other American schools. The Nutty Buddy? You gonna buy me one, too? All food was terrible. Salisbury steak was the right, that’s a buck, man. Thank you, Mikey.... worst; the meat they used called into question Steve wants a milk and sugar cookie? All the very definition of “steak.” The most desired right, Steve, that’s 70 cents. What you gonna item was the Nutty Buddy, a sugar cone filled buy me? All you got is a dollar? All right, man, with vanilla ice cream and covered with chocolate I’ll just keep your change.... and peanuts. Any more? All right, I’m off—back in five There were three lunch lines. These were minutes! menacingly long, and kids giving back-cuts Now, the fact that Aaron did all the math were merciless. The pecking order was strictly quickly in his head with only a partial sixth-grade enforced. The bullies gave cuts only to bigger education was impressive enough, but the bullies and pretty girls, while the skinny talent I really want to highlight lay in the “be kids...well, they stayed skinny. back in five minutes” part. By the time the student at the end of the Aside from the skinny kids, Aaron liked line had procured his repast and sat down, he the third-period P.E. kids the best. He made would hardly have time to take his first bite sure that he was in good standing with them, before the bell rang, signaling the end of the because they were allowed to leave class early, lunch period. thereby securing a position at the front of the However, for wimpy twelve-year-old lunch line. Aaron could often be seen joking and sixth-graders, there was an option that gave high-fiving with this group, even slipping them them access to the cornu-copia usually available an extra sugar cookie from time to time. The only to those at the front of the lunch line. result: Aaron got front-cuts more than haircuts. This option came in the form of a boy, a Even the lunch ladies liked Aaron, due wise pre- teen by the name of Aaron Cunnings. to what he called his “lunch lady charm.” He Aaron could not afford to buy his meal, and he never missed a new hairstyle or nail polish, had too much pride to stand in the free-lunch and always complimented each lady accordingly. line. So he used his talents to feed himself, He buttered them up the same way they buttered coming up with a system by which he not only their fresh rolls, and it paid off when he loaded got his lunch but also left school each day with up his tray. a silvery jingle in his pocket. Aaron always got served from the new, Aaron knew that the skinny kids’ problem hot pans of Salisbury straight out of the oven. wasn’t a lack of money. They suffered from And his wiles did not end there. He had the “Late-Bloomer Syndrome.” They had no clout; ability to hide a sugar cookie as large as his hand underneath his tray. The lunch ladies DITION they’d back down from a push or take two for E flinching. Another thing about Aaron: everybody never caught on. liked him, and he liked everybody—especially When Aaron returned to the table with the skinny kids. his bounty, it was like Christmas. He handed out the food quickly and inconspicuously, LECTRONIC At lunch, Aaron would place himself E strategically among a group of non-eating skinny then joined the other boys who were already students. After enough had gathered, he would eating voraciously and breathing only when they burped. Aaron would sit and talk with July/August 2001 page thirteen them, complain about homework, and if he is waxed), made with finely diced cucumber, was still hungry go on another run. diced carrots, and shallots (which serve as The thing was, not one student resented onions here), marinated in water, vinegar, salt, Aaron for using them to buy his lunch. Aaron and normal soy sauce. provided a service, and all involved benefited. I associate satay with ; stepping The skinny kids ate, and Aaron was able to stay carefully into the street to avoid being hit by clear of the free-lunch line. passing bajajs (three-wheeled motorcycles with Everybody liked Aaron. I loved him, cabs); good smells; and vendors who manage though he rarely paid any attention to me. In to be wheedling and arrogant simultaneously. fact, I was one of the only skinny kids that he Hard to estimate, but I would say there must didn’t talk to. You see, I bagged my lunch. be at least fifty thousand satay stalls, maybe

W. BRIAN OVERCAST just received an MA in creative more, in Jakarta, a city of twelve million people. writing from FSU and will be attending The My wife, Gigi, thinks my estimate is low. New School this fall. His favorite cafeteria item In the , Gigi’s homeland, satay remains the Nutty Buddy. is always called barbecue. It is usually pork and is always marinated and basted while it grills. At the moment, Gigi is doing work on the Letter from Jakarta Indonesian island of Ambon. There, satay is made of beef, chicken, goat, or pork (this last, of George Orick course, only in the Christian zone). Ambon satay atay. The word is always singular here—no is marinated in , salt, cinnamon, satays, just satay, generic. Some chi-chi garlic, and pepper, as well as being basted as it restaurants in Jakarta serve satay as a cooks. You can have a sauce on it, too: peanut S sauce sprinkled with finely cut shallots. first course. Nearly all Indonesian restaurants serve satay as one of several main courses. But Indonesia is a vast country, and satay where satay is mostly consumed is on the there is as various as the different regions. In street—not on the main streets, but on the central Java, for instance, satay is heavily sugared. other, secondary ones. These rarely have All food in central Java is sugared. You order sidewalks, so the stalls encroach on the narrow toast at breakfast in a hotel, and you have to dirt strip between buildings and street. People tell them NO SUGAR, and if you forget to tell step around them. them no sugar in the butter, you get sugar in These satay stalls are three-sided affairs, the butter. Central Java is the home of the wood and canvas, with open fronts in which wayang shadow plays. Central Java life is there are charcoal or wood fireboxes on metal shadow play and sugar coating. legs, with grills on which the satay is cooked on George Orick, retired from ABC News, has a skewers, always, twenty or twenty-five house in Provence but these days is more often at a time, a . But a good smell. found in Indonesia, where his wife, Gigi, helps co-ordinate humanitarian aid for the strife-torn Satay here in Jakarta is never pork (Muslim Malukus (Spice Islands). country), always chicken, beef, or goat. I like the goat satay; it tends be more tender than the beef, and I can get chicken anyplace. Skewers are either split bamboo or metal. If metal, you’ll get the satay on a section of banana leaf or piece ELECTRONIC EDITION of paper, so the vendor can retain the skewer. If Simple Cooking 74 © 2001 John Thorne and Matt Lewis E LECTRONIC bamboo, you get the whole thing. Thorne. All rights reserved. SC is published every other The sauce for satay in Jakarta is made month. A subscription to the electronic edition is $24 for six with sweet soy sauce, chile peppers (ground), issues, worldwide. Unless stated otherwise, we assume and small green —not really limes, but letters to us are meant for publication and can be edited E the size of small limes. Jakarta satay is not accordingly. P.O. Box 778, Northampton MA 01061. DITION marinated. You can have it with sauce or not. E-MAIL: [email protected]. You can have a kind of salad with it, served on WEBSITE: HTTP://WWW.OUTLAWCOOK.COM. the banana leaf or waxed paper (only one side SUBSCRIBE: HTTP://OUTLAWCOOK.SAFESHOPPER.COM/

page fourteen SimpleSimple Cooking Cooking 71 74 LECTRONIC DITION merging of Chinese and Malay, and is locally is and Malay, and Chinese of merging plus that of a unique subculture that is itself a Indian, and Malay-Indonesian, Chinese, mix: S Egriddle bread, dry-style noodles with lemon and and ...and dishes like spicy meat-stuffed Asianingredients,Indian ,andspices, mélange of Chinese cooking Etechniques,and so tropicalon—will find tamarind, paste, waiting shrimp dried in milk, coconut this book a heady to the cuisine’s basic ingredients—lemongrass, is Singapore’s soul food: you might well say that Straits Chinese were to cooking Diana Ross. Holding to that metaphor, the It is to Singapore cooking what the Supremes furnishes and continuity for drama, curries, sauces, and the marinades. intensifies harmony, the provides spices—rempah and ginger, lemongrass, , garlic, herbs and always changing list of ingredients—fresh wide a of out dish each for concocted Freshly together in a mortar to a thick, smooth paste. pounded , and of aromatics, base herbs, flavor powerful a sofrito, American Latin the as purpose same the serves which known as Straits Chinese. July/August 2001 to the feature essay in this issue. The following two reviews are wroteespecially and pertinentedited a I separateand Matt 1990s, early the reviewin stint brief a Forof cookbooks. elw h rc siy de o hr od and food bind togetherhermixtures.... her of milk...to edges spicy coconut rich the used mellow She candlenuts. of and the richness and thickening characteristic the pungent and savory taste of shrimp paste, intriguing sweet and citrus flavor of tamarind, herbal overtones of galangal and turmeric, the fresh screwpine, fragrant lime, lemongrass, of the tastes aromatic the to him introduced She enjoy curries and slow simmered preparations. The Malay wife taught her Chinese husband to T ingapore cooking is a fascinating ethnic country’s small fascinating several that of the a embraces is that composite cooking ingapore The intrepid culinary explorer with access The central pivot of the cuisine is HE (Harlow & Ratner, 1993, 174 pp.). C C OOKING HRIS Y EO & J

OF OYCE S INGAPORE J UE

rempah , even the humblest of backyard barbecue grills. , for example, cooks distinguish between: In dung. cow even leaves, sawdust, charcoal, woods, special coals, soft and hard of merits spot, redolent of the smoke and spice. on Asians argue devoured the and instantaneously cooked food cooking—fresh of Tao Asian an the simple charcoal-fired brazier is a conduit of them straight from Asian roadside stands. countless other smoke-cooked foods, much of as skewered if still swimming in the sea...and , whole salt-grilled Japanese tiger; chiles that Thais say it will wring tears from a with fiery so steak grilled a eaten”; ever have I dish exquisite most single “the as describes specially prepared leg of lamb that the author the a out Raan, Sikandari Indian seeking food: grill ultimate Asia of whole the traveled T Indian whole-cooked chili . toastedcoconut, andastonishingan Chinese- A recipes and the cuisines from which they come. theinterestingabouthaveoftensay things to SIAN the foods are putonthefire.... the foodsare latter, the for and fire, the in directly put are are foods chi the former, the and techniques—for similar Phao a container). isboiled...in (food coal-burning steamed tom and is fire); (food the over nung stationary); held or a with as turned is it fire; the over side of the fire); ping (food is skewered and the to held set is food (wrapped mok fire); the over grill latticework a in suspended is (food yang G Kong’s Hong of editor food former author, dream. The habachi-stoker’s a is book his Reading this book, we also discover that The author credits her sources, and these RILLS will awaken unexpected potential in (Doubleday, 1993, 335 pp.). ot Cia onn Post Morning China South Alexandra Greeley A SIAN G RILLS page fifteen has , [CONTINUED FROM PAGE 10] 1/2 teaspoon turmeric • 2 teaspoons sambal oelek PEANUT SAUCE #3 1 teaspoon minced garlic • 3/4 cup coconut milk (Adapted from Copeland Marks’ THE EXOTIC KITCHENS OF MALAYSIA) 2 teaspoons palm sugar • 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon peanut oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice • 2 or 3 shallots, peeled and minced 3 garlic cloves, •Toast the coriander seeds in a hot, minced ungreased skillet, let cool, and crush to a • 1 1 tablespoon tamarind paste /2 cup water powder. Combine this with the rest of the 2 to 3 tablespoons sambal oelek ingredients except the salt and lemon juice 1 stalk lemongrass in a small pan and simmer for 3 minutes. 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger Cool and stir in the reserved items. 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon palm sugar 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, ground to a paste as SAMBAL KECAP directed above 1 tablespoon kecap manis •Heat the oil in a small pot. Add the 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice minced shallots and garlic and cook over 1 garlic , very finely minced (optional) low heat for 2 minutes, or until they are 1 shallot, peeled and grated translucent. 1 to 2 teaspoons sambal oelek • pinch of salt • Meanwhile, dissolve the tamarind paste •Blend everything together and serve. in the boiling water, straining the result through a sieve. Prepare the lemongrass for use as a flavoring agent (see ingredient TANGY LIME SAUCE glosssary, page 3) but instead of flattening (Adapted from Jeffrey Alford & Naomi Duguid’s SEDUCTIONS OF RICE) it, cut in half lengthwise. Add this, the 2 tablespoons lime juice • 1 to 2 teaspoons fish sauce ginger, salt, and palm sugar to the pot with 1 tablespoon soy sauce •1 teaspoon sambal oelek the sautéed shallots and garlic. Bring to a 1 tablespoon palm sugar boil and simmer over low heat for 10 4 sprigs fresh coriander, chopped minutes. •Place all the ingredients except the • Stir the peanut paste into the pot at the coriander in a small bowl and mix well. If end of the cooking time and remove it from necessary, adjust the balance of lime juice, the heat. Fish out and discard the fish sauce, sambal oelek, and sugar to lemongrass and let the sauce rest at least taste. Do not mix in the chopped coriander 15 minutes before serving. until the sauce is to be served. (Without them it can be kept for a week in the fridge.) PEANUT SAUCE #4 (Adapted from Jackie Passmore’s ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ASIAN FOOD AND COOKING) THAI CUCUMBER SALAD [SERVES 4] About peanut sauces the author writes: “In 3 cucumbers, peeled • 2 shallots, peeled Malaysia the sauce is spiced coconut milk with ground peanuts; in Indonesia sauces 2 tablespoons coarse salt • based on kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

are generally preferred. In Thailand, the 2 hot chiles, stemmed, seeded, and diced E peanut-based sauce is creamy and richly 2 or 3 sprigs minced fresh coriander leaves LECTRONIC spiced. Variations on this theme are found 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, chopped (optional) in menus throughout Asia.” • Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise and E 1 1 /2 tablespoons coriander seeds spoon out their seeds. Slice into crescent- DITION 2/3 cup roasted peanuts, ground to a paste as shaped pieces about 1/4 inch thick. Slice directed above the peeled shallots into the thinnest 3 tablespoons kecap manis possible rings. Put the cucumber pieces page sixteen Simple Cooking 74 LECTRONIC DITION

lod Jfry ad am Duguid.. Naomi and Jeffrey, EAlford, Wright, Jeni (ed.). ESolomon, Charmaine. Passmore, Jacki. Cost, Bruce. Linda. Bladholm, Time-Life. of Editors the and Rafael, Steinberg, (ed.). Rosalind Moe, Alford, Jeffrey, and Naomi Duguid. July/August 2001 ef as vr kwr o bse mas and meats shrimp. basted of skewers over fans palm leaf waving coals over sweated men Satay restaurant.outdoorhuge a into turned it as lot kerosene lanterns lit the Jalan and Benteng parking fires charcoal Smoldering mosque. Jame the fairytale domes and moorish minarets of the acrossparkKlangRiverfromcarthe a indusk arounduphawkers setgrilledsataythat by of sticks eating enjoy to used I Lumpur Kuala In peanuts if not serving peanut sauce. sweetened Mix the towel. in vinegar and dish serve at together once. clean Add the chopped but everything old an in from the cucumbers and then the shallots • tocool. this intotherefrigerator sugar until it has completely dissolved. Put boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the • for 30 minutes, stirring them occasionally. coarse salt and let sit at room temperature separate bowls. two Toss each into of them rings in shallot a tablespoon the of and Wringmoisturemuchpossibleasasout a to vinegar rice the bring Meanwhile, 1980). (Hearst Books, 1991). (Renaissance Books, 1999). Southeast Asian Cooking Journey Journey Through Southeast Asia S Asian Ingredients URVEYS (Könemann, 1998). —Linda Bladholm, —Linda S ATAY I NTERESTING The Encyclopedia of Asian Food and Cooking The Encyclopedia of Asian Cooking

h Ain rcr Soe Demystified Store Grocery Asian The Encyclopedia of Asian Food OF Southeast Asian Specialties: A Culinary A Specialties: Asian Southeast R S EFERENCE B OUTHEAST (Quill, 2000). IBLIOGRAPHY S (Time-Life, 1970). Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet: A Culinary ATAY W A ORKS R (Artisan, 2000). T S SIAN HE ECIPES eutos f Rice of Seductions TORE A C (Periplus, 1996). SIAN D OOKING EMYSTIFIED G

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finger at me. “You just wait and see.” handholding the bag of empties and pointed a revolutionize the dog-cart industry.” He lifted the Young, Wandee, and Byron Ayanoglu. Ayanoglu. Byron and Wandee, Young, von Bremzen, Anya, and John Welchman Richard. Sterling, —. Owen, Sri. Copeland. Marks, —. (ed.).WendyHutton, Hansen, Barbara. Greeley, Alexandra. McMillin. Matt with Bruce,Cost, Burton, David, Brissenden, Rosemary. Vatcharin, Bhumichitr, Talbot-Kelly,R. David. and Jean Peterson, Nancie, McDermott, room temperature. room at or warm Serve taste. to juice lemon in Remove frequently. the from heat and stir stirring minutes, 5 another for Cook half. curry powder, salt, ketchup, and half-and- until lightly browned at the edges. Add the • 1 The Food of Singapore Indonesian Food and Cookery Mince the onion and sauté it in the butter book 1995). Fine, 1997). 1995). (HarperCollins, 2000). Penguin, 1979). (St. Martin’s Press, 1997). (Artisan, 1998). Black, 1905). 1997). 1996). (Robert Rose, 1996). / 1 mediumyellowonion•tablespoonbutter 2 Waldo’s SecretOnionSauce tablespooncurrypowder• 1 (Workman, 1995). / generous squeeze of fresh lemonjuice squeezeoffresh generous Classic Asian Cookbook 3 cupeachketchupandhalf-and-half Savouring the East Burma,Painted andDescribed TO BECONTINUED Taste of Southest Asia [ Dining with Headhunters with Dining h Eoi Kthn o Malaysia of Kitchens Exotic The MAKES Asian Grills [ CONTINUED The Food of Malaysiaof Food The el eeain Thai Vegetarian Real A South Food Asia East LSO ac’ Suh at sa Cookbook Asian East South Vatch’s (Periplus Editions, 1995).

ABOUT M Eat Smart in Indonesia in Smart Eat

FROM ENTIONED (Doubleday, 1993). (: Faber & Faber, 1996). . (Prospect Books, 1989). (Dorling Kindersley, 1998).

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1 1 / 2 . ] ipy hi Cooking Thai Simply (HPBooks, 1987). 4 Terrific Pacific Cook- Pacific Terrific teaspoonsalt ] Crnce Books, (Chronicle (PeriplusEditions, (Crossing Press, (Crossing (Adam Charles& (Harmondsworth: (Ginkgo, (Donald