Friuli Venezia Giulia

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Why Go? Trieste...... 409 With its triple-barrelled moniker, Friuli Venezia Giulia’s multi- faceted nature should come as no surprise. Cultural com- Il Carso...... 417 plexity is cherished in this small, little-visited region, tucked Gorizia...... 418 away on Italy’s far northeastern borders with Austria and Palmanova...... 419 Slovenia. Friuli Venezia Giulia’s landscapes offer profound Aquileia...... 419 contrasts too, with the foreboding, perpetually snowy Giulie Grado...... 420 and Carnic Alps in the north, idyllic grapevine-filled plains in the centre, the south’s beaches, Venetian-like lagoons and Pordenone...... 422 the curious, craggy karst that encircles Trieste. Udine...... 422 While there’s an amazing reserve of often uncrowded his- Cividale del Friuli...... 427 torical sights, from Roman ruins to Austro-Hungarian pal- San Daniele aces, this is also a fine destination for simply kicking back del Friuli...... 429 with the locals, tasting the region’s world-famous wines Tolmezzo & Carnia...... 430 and discovering a culinary heritage that will broaden your Tarvisio & notions of the Italian table. Serene, intriguing Trieste and Giulie Alps...... 430 friendly, feisty Udine make for great city time – they’re so easy and welcoming you’ll soon feel as if you’re Friulian, Venezian or Giulian too.

Best Places to Eat When to Go ¨¨La Frasca (p426) Trieste °C/°F Te mp ¨¨Orsone (p428) Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 8/200 ¨¨SaluMare (p414) 20/68 6/150 ¨¨Al Bagatto (p415) 10/50 4/100

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m) D Ven is D D (10km) Friuli Venezia Giulia Highlights (p430). the Carnic Alps AD life in the extraordinary in the extraordinary AD life at basilica mosaic-floored (p420). Aquileia 2 3 1 grand in the grand ghosts literary (p415). of Trieste cafes rtin ev Am # e (30km) Tr Co d' (40k ezia Giulia came into being as recently asrecently as being into came Giulia ezia already had 1954; its new Trieste, capital, sincetimes five allegiances national traded Such is the the beginning of the century. a rollicking, often blood- history, region’s stained one of boom, bust and conquest that began with the Romans in Aquileia, saw Cividale rise to prominence under the Lom History Ven The semi-autonomous region of Friuli

Friuli Venezia Giulia 408