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Friuli Venezia Giulia ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Friuli Venezia Giulia Why Go? Trieste ........................405 With its triple-barrelled moniker, Friuli Venezia Giulia’s muggia ........................412 multifaceted nature should come as no surprise. Cultural complexity is cherished in this small, little-visited region, Il Carso .......................413 tucked away on Italy’s far northeastern borders with Austria gorizia ........................413 and Slovenia. Friuli Venezia Giulia’s landscapes offer pro- Palmanova ..................414 found contrasts too, with the foreboding, perpetually snowy Aquileia .......................415 Giulie and Carnic Alps in the north, idyllic grapevine-filled grado ......................... 416 plains in the centre, the south’s beaches, Venetian-like la- goons and curious, craggy karst encircling Trieste. Laguna di marano ..... 418 While there’s an amazing reserve of often uncrowded his- Lignano ...................... 418 torical sights, from Roman ruins to Austro-Hungarian pal- Pordenone ................. 418 aces, this is also a fine destination for simply kicking back Sacile ......................... 419 with the locals, tasting the region’s world-famous wines and discovering a culinary heritage that will broaden your Udine ......................... 419 notions of the Italian table. Serene, intriguing Trieste and Cividale del Friuli .......425 friendly, feisty Udine make for great city time – they’re so San Daniele easy and welcoming you’ll soon feel as if you’re Friulian, del Friuli .....................426 Venezian or Giulian too. Tolmezzo & Carnia .... 427 Tarvisio & giulie Alps ..................428 When to Go Trieste °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 8/200 Best Places to Eat 20/68 6/150 10/50 4/100 ¨¨La Frasca (p415) ¨¨La Subida (p415) 0/32 2/50 ¨ ¨Salumare (p410) -10/14 0 J F DNOSAJJMAM Feb Discover the Jun Feast on Oct Watch sails Best Places to uncrowded slopes prosciutto at San fill the horizon at Stay of the Carnic and Daniele’s Aria di Trieste’s Barco- ¨¨L’Albero Nascosto (p409) g iulie Alps. Festa. lana Regatta. ¨¨Palazzo Lantieri (p414) ¨¨Albergo Diffuso Sauris (p427) 404 History splendid thing in Pordenone and Udine. It The semiautonomous region of Friuli Ven- was Austria, however, that established the ezia Giulia came into being as recently as most lasting foothold, with Trieste as its 1954; its new capital, Trieste, had already main seaport. While the region today is a traded national allegiances five times since picture of quiet prosperity, much of the 20th the beginning of the century. Such is the century was another story. War, poverty, po- F litical uncertainty and a devastating earth- R region’s history, a rollicking, often blood- iu stained one of boom, bust and conquest that quake saw Friulians become the north’s L largest migrant population, most bound for i began with the Romans in Aquileia, saw v Cividale rise to prominence under the Lom- Australia and Argentina. enezia bards, and witnessed the Venetians do their Salzburg D Klagenfurt g iu (200km) (30km)D #\ L 0 20 km Villach ia e# 0 10 miles Carnic AUSTRIA VENETO Alps 0¸SS465 #\ Passo Sauris Malborghetto Arnoldstein Cortina della Sauris #2 R #\ Tarvisio d'Ampezzo di Sopra Valbruna #\ Mauria #\ di Sotto Mt Zoncolan #\ #\ Laghi (40km)D (1740m) c Forni di Lago di di Fusine Krajnska #\ Sauris Gora Sopra #\ Giulie Alps Parco Naturale #\ Tolmezzo /·SS52 Ampezzo Sella Regionale delle #\8 Dolomiti Friulane Nevea #÷ Lago di CARNIA #\ Bovec Cà Zul o t #\ Gemona Lago di n Cà Selva Lago di e del Friuli Tramonti m a /·SS13 gli a /·A23 T /·SS54 #\ T Cividale San Daniele o r del Friuli Spilimbergo #\ del Friuli r e #5#\ e #^#4 n Udine o SLOVENIA s i Buttrio t #\ a Pordenone 0¸SS352 N Sacile /·SS56 #\ #] #\ /·SS13 #\Nova Gorica Codroipo Cormòns #\ S #] t Gorizia D 0¸SS305 a e n Azzano l Palmanova #\ u #\ la o d Decimo z Treviso e Riserva /·A4 Riserva Naturale Ison D M Regionale Foce (30km) Naturale dell'Isonzo Monfalcone della Valle #] Ljubljana Canal Novo #– #\ Duino #\ /·SS14 Aquileia (80km) ÷# #\ 3#\ ÷# /·SS14 Prepotto Portogruaro Marano # #\ Lagunare Il Carso#7 Rupingrande ÷# #\ Lignano Sabbiadoro#\ Grado Miramare V# #\ Villa Lignano Pineta #\ #\ #\ #6 Barcola Opicina Liv #\ en Riserva Naturale ^# z Lignano Riviera Laguna #1 Trieste VENETO a Di Marano Laguna di Regionale della D Grado Valle CavanataMuggia #\ D Venice ADRIATIC SEA Pula D Rijeka (10km) (130km) (75km) #\ Friuli Venezia Giulia Highlights 1 Communing with the 4 Sipping Friulano and 6 Strolling the lively old literary ghosts in the grand scoffingfrico (fried cheese) town of sun-drenched beach cafes of Trieste(p405). in one of the rowdy bars of resort Grado (p416). 2 Retreating to the wilds of Udine(p419). 7 Tasting your way through the Carnic Alps (p426). 5 marvelling at an 8th- the rustic vineyards of the 3 Picturing a 4th-century- century Lombard chapel in Colli Orientali and the Carso AD Roman port as you Cividale del Friuli (p425). (p413). wander Aquileia (p415). 8 Skiing across borders at Sella Nevea (p428)..
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