The lands of

1 Houses in stone and wood, ancient carnival rituals, a cuisine imbued with flavours lost elsewhere, and above all the people, who in , , , and help you rediscover the slow rhythm of times gone by.

Authentic architecture

olidaying in one of the “borghi village food festival, H autentici” (authentic villages) in celebrates the Venezia Giulia, in Forni di flavours of a cuisine Sopra, Raveo, Sauris, Sutrio and Ovaro, imbued with the culture means being hosted by a rare quality of and the history of these people, people who love welcoming others places. In Sauris, a marvellous into their community and helping them village of German origin, you will be rediscover the slow rhythms of times gone welcomed into mountain-style dwellings by. People, places, flavours and traditions built in stone and wood. The influence all speak of a magically preserved of the German culture can be seen in the authenticity. Forni di Sopra, dominated village’s countless traditions and folk by the majestic peaks of the Dolomites, festivals, including the Carnival, one of welcomes you into its spacious the oldest across the . Finally, a stroll courtyards and narrow lanes through the lanes in Sutrio, a beautiful featuring rural houses in mountain village, will lead you to a host stone and wood, with wide of workshops of skilled artisans who, upstair landings where hay during the Magia del Legno festival each was once dried. Raveo, September, demonstrate their great nestled in a sunny dell creativity and skill in the courtyards of the at the foot of Col Gentile, houses: the same courtyards where the exudes the charm of nativity scenes made by the marangons, an authentic village. the local wood sculptors, are carefully Sapori di Carnia, its displayed every year at Christmas.

3 outh-watering and strictly seasonal, gourmets. The famed hams are ideally served M Carnic cuisine uses genuine, natural with the beers brewed in the Sauris di Sopra ingredients, which the mountain beer factory. climate imbues with a special, richer flavour. The delicious Carnic herb-based cuisine is This typical cuisine faithfully mirrors its also of very ancient tradition. In spring, amid The taste people, and was developed over the centuries the mountains of Forni di Sopra, there is a and naturally conserved in valleys, rivers and joyous flourishing of wild herbs and flowers, woods which were more or less hidden by a such as silene, mountain asparagus and backdrop of mountains. However it is also a chicory; these are the basic ingredients for a renewed cuisine which adds an original touch number of fanciful dishes that can be tasted to traditional dishes, embracing the evolution along itineraries calling in at famed of tradition of taste. For lovers of genuine food, Carnia is restaurants. And to delight all gourmets, every a trove to discover. year during the Carnia in Tavola food festival, a number of famous restaurants propose their Sapori di Carnia: a festival of the flavours of a land where nature reigns In Sauris/Zahre, give in to the own menu, each based on a different dish. It at the dining table too. Simple, genuine ingredients give life to ancient temptation of its exquisite is hard to resist the temptations of the palate: prosciutto crudo: this cured ham you can try the most traditional local dishes, dishes or to creatively revised recipes. From the wild herbs, which season has been produced from time such as cjarsòns (ravioli with a sweet filling), omelettes and gnocchi, to the cjarsòns, frico and... immemorial, using original frico con polenta (a fragrant dish of malga techniques and is lightly cheese fried with potato and served with smoked to give it an polenta), pork shops with savoy cabbage, unmistakably sweet flavour. muset e brovade (cotechino served with sour In July, there is a two-weekend turnip marinated in marc), gnocchi alla festival in its honour: a must for carnica or apple gnocchi...

4 5 Ye olde shopping

The people from Carnia hold an ancient wisdom in their hands, expressed in handicrafts made in wood, ceramic, iron and stone. It is thread through the delicate weaving of fabrics and also pampers your feet in the typical velvet scarpetz.

he people from Carnia have not carved in ancient decorative styles, T only managed to preserve the wooden homeware, statues and bas- beauty of its nature and reap reliefs. the best fruits of its land. But it is surprising to learn that Carnia They have also used their hands to also boasts an ancient skill in weaving. shape materials into expressive Heirs of a tradition whose roots date handicrafts. The best places for back to the eighteenth century, the discovering and seeing this creativity workshops thread valuable original express itself is in the craftsmen’s patterns into their fabrics and weave workshops. Here the main soft rugs and items of clothing. materials used are wood, ceramic, Potters are busy workers too, and you iron, marble and stone. may well come across workshops, Weaving is another of their skills. perhaps squeezed in between the arches Woodworking is undoubtedly the of the typical Carnic edifices, where you most widespread craft. Sutrio, can admire their handicrafts to the one of the most charming background hum of the potter’s wheel. villages in Carnia, is known as The characteristic velvet footwear the village of the marangons, decorated in floral embroidery called local carpenters and wood scarpetz are also handmade in Carnia. sculptors. Theirs is an ancient art With these on your feet, you can let handed down from generation to your mind wander through the magic generation, over the centuries; still atmospheres of these lands, as you look today you can purchase furniture forward to visiting them once again.

6 7 From the Parco delle Colline Carniche, with its gentle trails to follow on foot, horseback or on a mountain bike, to the Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti Friulane, where trekking and mountaineering are superb between the majestic heights. Many tiny treasures are hidden amid the mountains, waterfalls and canyons, right down as far as the lake on Volaia... Places and delig hts of nature

he Parco Intercomunale delle Colline Carniche (park of the carnic hills) owes its name T to the gentle sloping heights interweaving a charming sunlit hilly backdrop covered in meadows and woodlands. It is the ideal place for cultural and nature excursions for all ages. Some of its trails may be followed on a mountain bike or on horseback, starting out from the stables situated inside the Pineta di . The Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti Friulane is a protected area featuring Dolomitic peaks and splendid natural backdrops. A genuine paradise for excursions, trekking and mountaineering. Indeed Carnia offers dozens of sites of remarkable environmental and natural value: lakes, waterfalls, canyons: little known but enchanting and spectacular treasures hidden among the mountains. There are exciting excursions in the Canyon del Torrente Vinadia above Villa Santina and in the Forra de Las Callas: here the Chiarsò stream flows down to an impenetrable gorge, which you can glimpse from a path dug into the overhanging rock. The Lake and Oasis of Bordaglia, lying in the meadows at the foot of Monte Volaia, are two of the most spectacular places in , inhabited by chamois, roe deer, marmots and a rich avifauna.

8 9 arnia pulsates with a world of folklore in the Alps. There are two main characters C customs and usages offering images, featured in the event: the Kheirar, king of sounds and fragrances which become the masks whose duty it is to lead the engraved in your memory. Like, for example, festival and the Rolar, who announces the the ancestral agricultural rituals tied to the beginning of the masquerade. There are also seasons, celebrated many times a year in a host of legends passed down from one traditional festivals and sagras. Then there generation to the next, folk tales where fact are the rituals for the Epiphany, for Carnival and fiction, common sense and superstition and for the harvest. If you stroll through the merge together. Carnia villages at Christmas time, watch out As you walk through the woods, the silence for las cidulas, blazing wooden discs that might be broken by rustling or whispering: village youngsters launch into the dark so take a quick look around - you may be night with messages of goodwill. lucky enough to catch sight of the Sbilfs, In Sauris, legendary figures comical, spiteful elfins inhabiting the accompany the oldest carnival Carnia forests.

Ancestral agricultural rituals tied to the flow of the seasons and to daily life in this magical mountain microcosm have nurtured folklore customs which are still very much alive today, particularly at Epiphany, Carnival time and harvest time. With blazing discs thrown from the hillsides and elfins in the woods. Once upon a time…

10 11 Clocks borne of an eighteenth century tradition, fifteenth- century “blacksmiths”, mills still working as they did in the seventeenth century. An ancient world, relived in the Carnic museums, touches modern-day society with its wisdom, filling the air with melodious notes of fortepianos and harpsichords and warming kitchens with the fogolâr. Traces of culture

ediscover the ancient traditions and fortepianos, harpsichords and violins R understand the real essence of the belonging to a very rich private collection Carnic culture, by visiting the large of ancient musical instruments. The Museo number of museums scattered throughout dell’Orologeria pesarina is a most unusual the area. The most important of these is clockmaking museum situated in Pesariis, undoubtedly the Museo delle arti e tradizioni one of the most characteristic villages in popolari Michele Gortani in . Carnia, brought to fame by its unusual This museum of folk arts and traditions has craftsmen’s trade dating back to the faithfully reproduced a typical Carnic eighteenth century: the production house; with its Friulian kitchen and of clocks, still sold all over Europe. characteristic fogolâr, it is a symbol of this land, whose image it can evoke worldwide. Stop off in Illegio, at the Mulin dal Flec, to see how grain was once milled. Or visit the Farie di Checo in , a fifteenth-century factory which depicts the typical blacksmith’s workshop and shows the whole iron working process. At the Mozartina, in , visitors are completely enveloped in music in this ‘live’ museum, with the notes of

12 13 Nature and... wellbeing In the snowy winter and the bright green summer, outdoor activities are the ideal way for living in harmony in such an expressive natural setting. Travel on foot, skis, horseback or on a bicycle, then treat yourself to wonderful breaks in bivouacs, refuges and malghe, before immerging yourself in the regenerating Terme di Arta spa.

here are two colours for sports in welcome and provide refreshments for T Carnia: white and green, colours ramblers. Carnia offers exciting horseback which flow one into the other with rides too, along the trails and in the the changing seasons. White prevails on ski trenches of the front line of the Great War slopes and the mountains in winter while or along the Via delle Malghe, an itinerary green takes over in spring and summer, linking the mountain dairies, where you with countless shades colouring the can discover the flavours of these lands. meadows and trees. And at the end of a tiring day outdoors, Practising sports in Carnia means living there is nothing better than treating in harmony with nature. Any outdoor sport yourself to a few hours in the Terme di is in close contact with the unspoilt Arta spa, the ideal place for spending a environment, as are outdoor leisure regenerating wellbeing holiday for getting activities. Bivouacs, refuges and malghe your body back into shape or simply for are scattered along hundreds of paths to relaxing in an unspoilt natural environment.

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TARVISIO CARNIA

SLOVENIA

UDINE PORDENONE GORIZIA

TRIESTE

Easy to reach, hard to forget

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DSF design / photo: Da Pozzo, Museo delle Arti Popolari Michele Gortani / printed by: Graphart

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