Bent's Fort Chapter Santa Fe Trail Association

Bent’s Fort Chapter Santa Fe Trail Association July 2012 Newsletter

BFC Members on Tour June 2012

DON’T On Saturday, elers were able to camp near water. FORGET June 16, ap- Tons of military supplies were carried These proximately Future over this 200-mile trail, said Lolly-- 24 members perhaps more volume than all the Events of the Bent's years of the Santa Fe Trail, as they re- Fort Chapter inforced the new Ft. Union. The fort assembled at came into existence in 1851 and was a point west active until after the Civil War, guarding  July 14: Lamar, Ron of Kim, where the Santa Fe Trail in New Mexico and Dulle presentation, 10 we met our standing as an obstruction to Confeder- Things I’ve Learned guides for the About the Santa Fe ate movements there. day, Lolly and Trail Don Ming, to tour a portion of the Gra-  August 11: Fowler Senior Center, presen- nada-Fort Union trail. tation on Charles Prominent in our view, looking south, Autobees, the Bents, was Mesa de Maya, which overlapped St Vrain, Kit Carson, "Black" Mountain as it sloped farther Buffalo Bill, and Wild south and west down to Emery Gap. Bill Hickok by George Autobee

In this issue…  BFC tours Granada A short distance away, our first stop Fort Union route was at the Archuleta School and home-  Wind wagons and stead. The rock walls of the school steam wagons were solid but the floors less so. Some  NPS news mentioned the possibility of snakes, which kept some explorers out.  Bent’s New Fort (Continued on page 2)  A teenager comes to El Dorado  The Last journey of Don We learned that this military road, that Antonio Jose Chavez brushed by the mesa, cut off from the on the Santa Fe Trail Santa Fe Trail near Granada and pro-  A look back vided teamsters hauling military supplies a shorter and smoother route to  Membership form Ft. Union than the route over Raton Pass. Also, in most cases, these trav-

Bent’s Fort Chapter Members Jun Tour...continued Our caravan of 16 vehicles then traveled west and about her father's penchant for collecting that had south down US 389 into New Mexico, stopping briefly (literally) filled the town's depot, a "hotel" where her in Toll Gate Canyon in Emery Gap, the main route mother kept roomers and boarders, and a caboose. used by most travelers into New Mexico until Raton There were kitchen utensils, and tools, and every sort Pass was improved. The gate keeper was Basil (Bill) of memorabilia to pique the memory of many, as well Metcalf, and he charged $ . 75 per wagon to unhook as the completely his chain and let haulers or other travelers through. furnished caboose. He also sold spirits, said Lolly, who also told us that-- Even the yards held according to legend-- their treasures from he simply threw his the past. Ms. Lo- toll collection into a chard told us she has corner of his house, had visitors from all using a scoop shovel of the "lower 48" when he needed states and several cash. foreign countries to visit her museum.

How did they find her, and it, Then it was back to Branson, Colorado, population and everything 58. Congregating at the town's library, we met the en- without our path- ergetic librarian, Rachel Snyder, who gave us informa- finder and trusty tion about the guides Lolly and town and how its Don? relatively few inhabitants have (Thanks to Ed worn many hats Stafford for writ- to fill necessary ing this review of offices that the tour. Also, maintain its exis- thanks to Ed and tence. We were to LaDonna also joined there Hutton for the by resident photos.) Willard Louden, artist and geologist, and his wife Mary Ann, also an Ten Things the Santa Fe Trail Taught Me artist. The Loudens had given this 1919 building to the A Presentation by Ron Dulle community. It had previously been a church; in 2009 it Our July 14th meeting will be at the Big Timbers became a community center and thrift store before be- Museum in Lamar, which is located at 7515 US coming the library. We ate lunch in and around the li- Hwy 50 on the western edge of town, (719) 336- brary, in the fairly severe heat enjoying cold drinks and 2472. We’ll start at 12:00 noon with a dinner pre- ice cream (and burritos) sold there. Some of us looked pared by the Santa Fe Trail Dutch Oven Cook- at the Branson jail--from outside the cells. ers. The meal is free but donations will be ac- Stirring up a long cepted (and encouraged). Drinks and table ser- dust trail, we went vice will be provided. At 1:00, photographer and farther west to the author Ron Dulle will give a presentation about smaller community ten quirky, obvious, and unpredictable things that of Trinchera--which, he learned while doing research for his book, like Branson, still Tracing the Santa Fe Trail: Today’s Views, Yes- has its own post terday’s Voices. For further information about office. Resident this event, contact Pat Palmer, (719) 931-4323. Joann Lochard met us there and told us 3

Wind Wagon and Steam Wagon...by Ed Stafford

In preparation for the "Wagons, Ho!" weekend at A contemporary account in 1847 described its run- Bent's Old Fort NHS in mid-May, I began exploring ning on eight wheels, instead of four, at a rate of 15 obscure modes of travel on the Santa Fe Trail for our to 20 miles an hour and having a mast 40 feet tall. newsletter. Following the advice of Greg Holt, fort interpreter and master of the According to Gardner's research, Thomas ex- weekend's activities, I turned to pected his early wind wagon "to take freight to Bent's a book by Mark Gardner titled Fort or to Santa Fe, in a reasonable time, at $6 per "Wagons for the Santa Fe hundred lbs.," and he expected to have a depot at Trade" (published in 2000 by Bent's Fort. the University of New Mexico Press and now out of print). I Continues Gardner, "A gentleman who rode on the found there two unusual con- wagon says that, with only one sail and a light veyances powered by some- breeze, it went at the rate of eight miles an hour." thing other than the usual four- With two sails, it was thought the wagon would dou- legged choices: the wind ble that speed. Following the Cimarron cutoff, Tho- wagon or sail wagon and the mas believed he could reach Las Vegas, New Mexico steam wagon. I am indebted Territory. Thinking more expansively, he imagined to Mr. Gardner for much of what follows. his vehicle could travel a large portion of the Oregon Trail. In 1846-47, Wil- liam Thomas (also The last available article reporting Thomas' original called "Windwagon invention appeared in April 1847, says Gardner, Thomas") made a when news reported a gala celebrating the start of a first major attempt wind wagon "tour to the buffalo country if a sufficient at inventing a true number can be raised to justify him in making the "prairie schooner" expedition." and completed the project with the Except mentions by dubious sources, the wind help of several wagon afterward disappeared for the next 12 years. workmen. The St. Then suddenly, on January 29, 1849, the same Wil- Louis Missouri Re- liam Thomas of Westport, Missouri, petitioned for a publican reported, patent on "a new and improved mode of land convey- on November 30, ance by means of the wind, which he verily believes 1846, that the has not been known or used prior to the invention US patent 23277 Sail Wagon was is- "machine" had thereof by your petitioner." Assembling business sued to William Thomas of Benton been completed partners, he formed the Westport and Santa Fe Over- Co., AR. It was granted on and given a trial land Navigation Company (unconfirmed) following an 03/15/1859. run. "He run [sic] (unconfirmed) trial run in the new wagon from West- up and down across the plains, found that he could port to Council Grove and back. overcome a steep with gentle ascent without diffi- culty, and that the mole-hills, so numerous on the In his book Gardner offers a contemporary account plains, were no bar to his progress." It had a frame that said, "It is to be propelled by the wind, through made of planks with four wheels on each side, each the means of sails. As to the wheels it looks like an one 12 feet or more in diameter and one foot thick. It overgrown omnibus [today's bus], and as to the spars was steered by a pilot wheel, similar to that of a ship, and sails, it looks like a diminutive schooner. It will which was connected by ropes to wagon tongues, seat about twenty-four passengers." Other ac- which, in turn were fastened to the forward axle. counts mentioned its box-like appearance, wheels And, it had "sails...like the sails and rigging of a ship." eight feet high, hollow hubs the size of beer barrels, a To protect him, his cargo, and his passengers from 25-foot mast with two sails "cut yacht fashion," its be- hostile Indians, it would be outfitted with a six- ing nine feet across, and weighing 3,000 pounds. pounder cannon. (Continued on page 4) 4

Wind Wagon and Steam Wagon...continued

Gardner's history further offers several different investors, who was riding along on his mule and wit- views (crediting the National Archives) of Thomas' nessed the above incident, told the same Journal- 1859 invention that he included in his patent applica- Post reporter that the wagon "lay in that ravine for tion, which bear out those visual descriptions. Men- years and years and years. Then little by little it was tion is made of improvements to the earlier model, carted off." which included: a door in the rear and side windows, seating for 12 to 24 passengers (descriptions vary), Yes, there were other experiments with wind-driven structural accommodations to strong, multi- wagons. In 1860, there were several that claimed directional winds and weight of freight, and wheels attention from the press. One, for example, had a eight feet in diameter that had double spokes en- bed about three feet wide, was eight feet long, and cased in iron. The "tiller ropes," unlike the 1846-7 six inches deep. It had a single sail over the front wagon, were connected to the rear axle, which "was axle, and when the wind was right, it is said to have designed...to swivel" with the turn of the pilot wheel. traveled 40 Sketch of Peppard’s wind wagon as it This "performed much like the rudder on a boat." miles per passed by Fort Kearney, NE, May 27, 1860 hour. An- The first big test down the Santa Fe Trail came on other, is said April 29, 1859, when the wagon--too ponderous for to have trav- assembly in town--was towed out of Westport by eled from "animal power" surrounded by hundreds of cheering Kansas City citizens from surrounding Missouri and Kansas cities. to Denver in Finally trail ready by May 13, it traveled only a few 20 days. Still miles before coming to a halt "in a deep ravine another, in- where," reported a bystander, "the wind failed to fill vented by the sail and she stopped." Thomas, he further re- Samuel Peppard and termed "Peppard's Folly," is ported, "says when he gets it perfected he will bet found in the Kansas Historical Society and tells of the ten thousand dollars he can get to the Rocky moun- arrival of his vessel arriving at Fort Kearney "under tains in six days." full sail, across the green prairie," but few details are available. There are a number of stories of the last voyage of this true prairie schooner, but the most colorful--too And, who can forget the film with David Niven and humorous to be omitted--is to be found in a Kansas his entourage speeding across the prairie on a railcar City Journal-Post story dated 1931. Investor William with sail attached as Phileas Fogg attempted to R. Bernard was aboard when "Thomas began a travel "Around the World in 80 Days"? course of fancy sailing not in the catalogue of prairie navigation." When he attempted to run the wagon in Oh, and the steam wagon, which I promised in para- the face of the wind, the "wagon came around all graph one? Mark Gardner devotes only one para- right, but the sudden veering of the wind brought on graph to that invention. It was "invented by a Kan- a catastrophe. The big sail, catching the wind sud- san named Thomas L. Fortune. It was built in St. denly, sent the wagon backward at a speed never Louis and shipped to Atchison, Kansas, by steam- attained before, and in some manner the steering boat in 1860. The heavy wheels were eight feet in apparatus became deranged. Faster and faster diameter with a tread twelve inches wide. Hundreds went the wind wagon, propelled by a rising wind[,] witnessed the first trial of the steam contraption, and guided only by whimsical fancy...the wagon re- which took place on July 4" that year. The pilot im- volved in a circle of about a mile in diameter with the mediately crashed the vehicle into a store building. terror-stricken faces of the stockholders and promi- A second pilot managed to extract it from that deba- nent citizens looking longingly at mother earth." cle and got the wagon headed in the right direction at The date of that trial run is unknown; however, there a speed of eight miles an hour. However, "when the seem to have been no further attempts by Thomas. steam wagon was stopped, its great weight caused the wheels to sink in soft ground....Fortune's steam In 1931, John Parker, son of one of the wind wagon wagon never left the town of Atchison." 5

The Civil War and the Arkansas River Valley, by Jeff Campbell

(In our June 2011 newsletter, Jeff There were seven of our little party: my father and Campbell began a series of arti- mother, we three girls, aged fifteen, twelve and ten cles about the civil War and the years – I being the second in age – and two young Arkansas River Valley. In this is- men... We had two wagons. In the bottom of one the sue Jeff continue the series by piano was boxed and laid flat and on top of it was introducing us to Julia S. Lam- everything imaginable – a tent, mattresses, comforts, bert. Jeff introduces her as fol- pillows and bedsteads. In the other were boxes of lows: “In 1916, Julia S. Lambert, dishes, cooking utensils, shovels, pans for washing then about 70 years old and long gold, picks, trunks and provisions and boxes of time resident of Bent County mother's treasures (for every housewife has her treas- wrote of her reminiscences as a ures, presents and family relics). ... At the back of one teenage girl crossing the plains, wagon the sheet marrying the agent for the Barlow -iron stove was and Sanderson Stage Line at age 15, living at old Fort lashed onto two Lyon just below Bent’s New Fort and many of the per- projecting sonages she met in those years of the Civil War. Her boards, the three "Plain Tales of the Plains" ran in a series of eight in- joints of pipe and stallments in The Trail, beginning January, 1916 Vol. an elbow laid on VIII, No. Eight.”) top and tied. We rode on top of Part VII: A Teenager come to El Dorado the load and each wagon was Chapter 1, Across the Plains – “... covered with the spring of 1860 St. Louis papers heavy sheets supported by large bows. were filled with accounts of the great ... amount of gold being discovered “We started from St. Louis on the ninth day of May, near Pike's Peak. Long articles were 1860.... written by a correspondent by the ... name of Goldrick, from Denver and “At West Port [Missouri] we were obliged to dispose of Colorado City, telling of the large cit- a part of our furniture and take on more provisions ... ies and fine opportunities for making our appetites had increased and this was our last fortunes. chance to get supplies. We girls begged our parents to keep the piano, so other things were disposed of “My parents were struck with the gold and we bought flour, corn meal, sugar, coffee, tea, fever and decided to start west in May. There was bacon, and molasses. ... It was at this place we first work for every member of the family. It was necessary met Colonel Boone [Albert Gallatin Boone], a grand- to provide a goodly supply of clothing, not only for the son of Daniel Boone of Kentucky. ... preparing to go long journey but to last for some time after reaching to Denver ... our destination, as it was reported that prices were very high in Denver. “Our one fear was horse thieves. They followed us day after day, trying to trade horses with us on the “I was twelve years of age and ... it seemed very ro- road and in camp, then pass on and apparently leave mantic ... appealed to me very much and I was de- us, but would return at night and try to steal our lighted at the opportunity before us, being too young horses. Each horse had to be chained and padlocked to realize the cares and responsibilities or to share in to the wagon wheels and the three men, my father, the dangers. George and Henry, took turns standing guard. ... they kept it up until we reached Council Grove, ... con- “A complete camp outfit was soon provided. Furniture sisted of a small general store, a blacksmith shop and was disposed of, all except that which we were com- three residences. pelled to take to keep house in the plainest manner. (Continued on Page 8) 8

A teenager Comes to El Dorado...continued

“We had overtaken a government train of one hun- all opening into it; the buildings on three sides being dred wagons hauling freight to New Mexico ... wag- used for living and store rooms, the fourth for sta- ons were large with six yoke of oxen to each [12], bling the stock. ... On the north were two large, and most of the drivers were Mexicans whom we heavy doors. All teams belonging here were driven feared almost as much as the Indians. They were inside. ... Here Colo- very dark skinned and spoke Spanish. For the sake nel Bent, the Indian of safety we kept close to this train as the Indians trader, lived with his were more afraid of these Mexicans than they were second wife, who was of the soldiers. a Cheyenne Indian...... His wife kept all kinds “The weather had now become warm [by late June] of little trifles which and the roads very hard, which caused the oxens were traded to the In- hoofs to wear down and their feet get sore, making dians for deer, ante- them lame so that was necessary to lie in camp lope, buffalo, beaver, every few days long enough to shoe them, shoes wolf, mink and other and a kit of tools being part of every outfit. hides, some being ...... brought for many miles and obtained for almost noth- “We were following the Arkansas River on the origi- ing. nal Santa Fe Trail. The country was barren of timber except a little along the river. Our cooking had to be “The Indians are very fond of bacon, sugar and cof- done with buffalo chips, which is the dried manure of fee and were willing to trade expensive furs for these the buffalo. ... articles. Many traders made large fortunes by this means, shipping their furs to St. Louis. “In June the weather had become so warm and the ... cattle's feet so sore we were obliged to travel nights “We decided to celebrate the Fourth of July at Fort and stay in camp during the day. ... Bent, so our captain [of the train, Dr. Harry Dunn] ... selected our camping ground west of the fort, in the “On the third day bottom among the trees close by the river. The Indi- of July, 1860, we ans and hunters called this place "Big Timbers." reached Bent's Fort, [New “On the morning of Fort] ... on the the fourth [July 04, north side of the 1860] the ladies Arkansas on a dressed up by high, rocky bluff, wearing light calico overlooking the dresses and their river, situated in such a way that anyone approach- hoop-skirts, the ing from any direction could easily be seen for a gentlemen by shav- great distance. It was a large stone, one story building (those who did ing, built on Site of Bent’s New Fort today not wear beards) a square, and taking their with a plaza pant legs out of their boot tops, but not daring to re- in the cen- move their revolvers, as a great many Indians – ter, (the Cheyennes, Arapahoes, Kiowas and Comanches – word "plaza" were camped across the river. The captain gave or- is Spanish ders for all to stay close to the camp and every one and means was glad to obey. inner court) the windows (continued on page 9) and doors 9

A teenager Comes to El Dorado… New Exhibits Installed at Bent’s Old Continued Fort National Historic Site

“The next morning [July 5, 1860] we started on our journey, following the old Santa Fe Trail. ... On May 12, 2012, the National Park Service un- veiled beautiful new exhibits near the DAR arch [a day or two later] “That evening we reached the ru- at the entrance to Bent’s Old Fort. These panels ins of Bent's Old Fort, thirty-five miles west of Bent's explain the significance of the Fort. They also Trading Post [New Fort]. ... “At the old Adobe Fort is point the visitor to significant sites along the Trail where the Santa Fe Trail crosses the Arkansas River both east and west of the Fort. going south to Fort Union, New Mexico, ... “Here we had Old Post Card of Spanist Peaks...available on our first view of eBay the Spanish Peaks which were in the southwest. It was a great sight to us and every morning saw us nearer though ap- proaching too slowly to satisfy us. ... “Sixty-five miles Old Post Card of Fountain Creek...available on eBay of travel brought us to a little Mexican settlement of a few adobe houses. There were a few Indians here. This place was called Fountain City, and situated on La Fountaine qui Bouille, now called Fountain Creek… ... “When within fifty miles of Denver we met ... soldiers from Fort Laramie, ... going over the same road we had just travelled to Bent's Trading Post, at Big Tim- bers, to build Fort Wise which was built on almost the spot where we spent ... fourth of July. .... “Denver in 1860 – A city of Many Tragedies”: In July Julia's family arrives in Denver and takes house there. They meet Colonel Boone there, who was managing a store for St. Vrain, Maxwell and Thomas Boggs. She mentions Sheriff Tom Pollock. She cites an incident involving a shooting at William N. Byers' newspa- per office and several murders within 8 days of their arrival at Denver. 10

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail By Anthony D Juarez

(One of the most infamous crimes committed on the to California and the Pacific Ocean. An earlier expe- Santa Fe Trail was the murder of Don Antonio Jose dition in 1604 lead by Onate followed the future path Chavez by Texas Republican Forces in 1843. Mr. of the Santa Fe Trail into south central Kansas in the Chavez was a respected Mexican trader whose mur- footsteps of Francisco Coronado seeking Quivira and der sparked international tensions just prior to the the “Seven Cities of Gold.” Mexican-American War of 1846-1848. His murder was documented by Marc Simmons in the book, Mur- The evening we camped at the El Morro National der on the Santa Fe Trail. Anthony Juarez is a direct Monument, I read an account written by a member of descendant of Mr. Chavez and recently retraced his the Andrew Vander Wagen family describing An- ancestor’s last trip on the trail. He has written an ac- drew’s camping at El Morro in 1896 with my great, count of his own trip and has graciously allowed us to great grandfather, Dan Dubois. “Old Dan” was a print it in our newsletter.) mountain man, pathfinder, Indian trader, and pioneer. He settled in the Zuni area in the 1860s. Among other deeds, he served as an interpreter, outfitter and general utility man for Frank Hamilton Cushing and the Hemenway Archeological Expedition which exca- vated the Zuni Pueblo. “Old Dan” introduced Andrew, a missionary, to the Zuni people, where he estab- lished a mission and settled his family. We met descendents of the Vander Wagen family in Zuni and they were knowledgeable of "Ole Dan" from family oral and written history and very happy to meet a de- scendent of his.

We also followed the Navajo "Long Walk" from Fort Defiance, AZ to the reserva- tion at Basque Redondo at Fort Summer, NM. I stood on On May 28, 2012, Brigitte, and I began our quest to the same spot where my trace the last journey of my great, great, great, great great, great, great grandfa- grandfather, Antonio Jose Chavez, along the Santa ther, Manuelito, the eminent Fe Trail to the site on Jarvis Creek near Lyons, Kan- chief of the Navajos, signed a sas, where he was murdered by a gang of Republic treaty with General William of Texas militia in April of 1843. The murder of a Re- Sherman, to allow the Navajo public of Mexico citizen on United States Kansas Ter- to return to their homes. ritory soil by Republic of Texas Militia became a seri- ous international incident that threatened the emerg- These experiences provided a ing commercial trade on the Santa Fe Trail with Mex- better understanding, appre- ico. ciation and pride of our family genealogy. The harsh landscape and inclement This trip was done with the purpose of “bringing to weather of the southwest has changed little since our life” the rich history of our family. Last year we visited ancestors arrived in North America centuries ago and Zuni, NM and explored El Morro National Monument traveled up the Camino de Real to northern New to view rock inscriptions carved by the Spanish Con- Mexico and beyond. Traveling these same trails has quistadors of the Juan de Onate Expedition in 1604. provided an appreciation for the hardships endured Pedro Gomez Duran y Chavez, an ancestor of Anto- and sacrifices that made possible settlement and de- nio Jose Chavez, was a member of the Onate Expe- velopment of New Mexico. These pioneers made life dition and may have been a member of the party that easier and safer for those who came after them. passed through the Zuni area looking for a passage (Continued on page 11) 11

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail...continued Uncle Richard Rubi shared information he had re- Good Kansas people, Les and Sue Alderman and searched and documented about our family. His Britt and Linda Cole, provided us background infor- work traced the Chavez branch to our oldest known mation about Rice County and an introduction to relative with a known date of 1556 some 450 years Maggie Carlson, Museum Director of the Coronado ago. Don Antonio Jose Chavez, a wealthy merchant, Quivira Museum. Dell Young, President of the Rice who was murdered on the Santa Fe Trail, is included County Historical Society, was on hand to greet us in this lineage. An in depth study of this incident is and mowed the grass documented in the book “Murder on the Santa Fe around the Chavez Trail, An International Incident 1843”, Dr. Marc Sim- marker, to ensure we mons, published by Texas Western Press university could locate it. Maggie of Texas at El Paso. The family Chavez branch is Carlson opened the mu- posted below. seum and the research library to us and gave us a personal tour of the Rubi - Chavez Family Lineage Chavez assassination Anthony Dale Juarez, born July 27, 1945 in Winslow, site. She and her staff AZ; were friendly and helpful Son of Mary Ruth Rubi-Juarez, born January 12, and enriched our visit. 1922 in Winslow, AZ. Died August 10, 1991; Daughter of Margaret Garduno-Rubi born August 6, Don Antonio Jose Chavez 1900 in Winslow, AZ. Died December 5, 2003 in was a citizen of New Mex- Winslow, AZ; ico and he and his broth- Daughter of Antonio Jose Chavez-Garduno, born ers had been plying the October 10, 1867 in Santa Fe, NM. Died April 22, trail between the far southwest and the city of St. 1940 in Los Angeles, CA; Louis for several years. Reports circulated in 1842 to Son of Benigna Chavez, born March 3, 1852 in Al- the effect that Republic of Texas forces were plan- godones, NM. Died ning to attack traders along the trail were not heeded March 3, 1928 in Albuquerque, NM; by Chavez who started out in February of 1843 with Daughter of Vicente Chavez son of; two wagons, five servants, fifty-five mules and sev- Don Antonio Jose Chavez, born in Los Padillas, NM. eral bales of furs as well as $12,000 in gold and sil- Died April 1843 near Lyons, Kansas; ver. His destination was Independence, Missouri. Francisco Xavier Chavez, born April 9, 1769 in The spring of 1843 proved unusually cold, which Belen, NM; brought inconvenience and hardship to Chavez and Tomas Chavez, born December 29, 1737 in Belen, his men and death to fifty of the mules they had NM; brought with them. Francisco Xavier Chavez, born in 1716 in Albuquer- que, NM; Missouri border ruffians It was on Pedro Duran Y Chavez. Died December 7, 1735; April 10, Fernando Duran Y Chavez, born 1651 in NM. Died 1843 that 1713 in NM; Chavez Fernando Duran Y Chavez, born 1609 in NM. Died camped April 1, 1669 in NM; near the Pedro Gomez Duran Y Chavez, born 1556 in Llernia, crossing of Estremadura, Spain; the Little Hernan Sanchez Rico, born in Spain. Arkansas River in We traced the Santa Fe Trail to the location where what is now my ancestor, Antonio Jose Chavez, was murdered eastern Rice County in Kansas. Here he was met by and so much more. I gained a much better under- a company of 15 men under the leadership of a John standing of the history and impact of the Santa Fe McDaniel. Trail upon development of New Mexico and Kansas. (Continued on page 12) 12

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail...continued McDaniel had organized the band on the frontier of ment west came from the east by ship by way of Missouri, expecting to join a Colonel Warfield who New Orleans and brought up the Mississippi River to was on the plains claiming to be a part of the forces St. Louis and west on the Missouri River to Kansas of the Texas Republic and intending to attack and City, Independence City, Westport and other emerg- rob trail caravans to fund the new Republic. Chavez ing frontier towns. The Oregon Trail was a one-way was apprehended by the McDaniel men and taken trip for settlers heading to the northwest. The Santa off the trail to be robbed of his belongings. Seven of Fe trail was a two-way commerce trail bringing the bandits returned immediately to Missouri with horses and mules, furs, and gold and silver from their shares of the loot while the balance remained, Mexico and goods produced in the east going to deciding to dispose of Chavez. They led him to Jar- Santa Fe and Mexico which had been isolated and vis Creek trade restricted by Spain. The trail from Independ- where, ac- ence Missouri to Santa Fe was 770 miles and travel- cording to ing at an oxen drawn pace of 12- 15 miles a day and present be- depending upon the route taken the journey could liefs, they take 2-3 months to complete. However, the opportu- took him to nity to make upwards to one thousand percent return a ravine on goods sold in New Mexico attracted many entre- which emp- preneurs. The journey seems long to us today but ties into that the trade routes coming up from Veracruz Mexico little stream, through Chihuahua and El Paso at that time could and there shot him. With the balance of the spoils take upwards to eighteen months. The travel time they, too, returned to Missouri. seems extensive but the alternative was to sail by ship along the Atlantic eastern coast to South Amer- Several of the McDaniel gang were afterward ar- ica, around Cape Horn and into the Pacific north to rested by Missouri authorities for implication in the the west coast and then travel by land inland. The crime and the leader, John McDaniel, was tried and Santa Fe Trail was a “short cut” and cut off months of convicted at St. Louis. During the trial evidence was travel. produced by the prosecution showing that the wagons belonging to Chavez had been discovered in the As we followed the Trail east following the Arkansas ravine of Owl Creek crossing where they had been River east to Don Antonio Chavez’s destination in left by the murderers. In the years after 1843, Owl Independence, Missouri, I came to realize that most Creek took the name of the man who had died there. descriptions of travel on the Santa Fe Trail were writ- But that name, so unfamiliar to frontier folk knowing ten by Anglos traveling east to west. The freighters no Spanish, became hopelessly mangled, Chavis, were rough hard- Chauvey, Charvix, Garvis, Jarvis, and so on. But at working maver- last Jarvis was settled upon and by that name is the icks, including creek shown on all maps today. In 1998, a limestone mountain men, post was placed to at Jarvis Creek Crossing south- traders, trappers, east of Lyons, KS to mark the site of the murder of surveyors, sol- Antonio Jose Chavez. A single word inscribed on a diers, adventure limestone post reads: "CHAVEZ". seekers, men of many different Our journey began in Pueblo, CO and we headed nationalities. east to La Junta, CO where we picked up the Moun- These men de- tain Route of the Santa Fe Trail. At Bent’s Fort near parted from tough La Junta, CO the trail leaves the Arkansas River and frontier towns for their Santa Fe destination. On arri- heads southwest to Trinidad and over Raton Pass val they were awed by the majesty of the Sangre de into New Mexico and on to Fort Union, Las Vegas Cristo Mountains and the picturesque settings of and the Palace of Governors in Santa Fe, NM. In the Taos and Santa Fe. These men sold their goods and early 1800s the land routes west followed the Ore- wagons, turned and headed back to Independence gon and the Santa Fe Trails. Heavy goods for ship- for another load. (Continued on page 13) 13

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail...continued New Mexico was the home of Don Antonio Jose same locations selected by early travelers. Historical Chavez. His family had lived in New Mexico for 7 sites are well marked along the highway, including generations. He was the son of Francisco Xavier wagon train ruts that can still be seen 130 years Chavez who had nine children. During this period it later. Thousands of caravans consisting of 20 to 30 was common for the sons of wealthy families to be wagons to a hundred wagons with hundreds of sent to St. Louis to attend private parochial school mules, oxen and livestock and military escort plod- and later to Universities, including Notre Dame. Lan- ded the trail for over 50 years. The historical sites are guage was as important as transportation and it was well marked along the highway. We stopped at Fort common for a wealthy family to speak Spanish, Larned, a national park landmark, which has been French, English and Indian dialects. Don Antonio accurately reconstructed and furnished. The day was was a wealthy, educated merchant married to Bar- Memorial Day and the volunteer staff was in full pe- bara Armijo Chavez. His perspective of departure riod costume and character. The Santa Fe Trail ran from the beauty and culture of his Spanish colonial along the south perimeter of the Fort. It was not diffi- home headed east to the rough frontier towns of the cult to imagine Don Antonio stopping at the fort and United States Territory must have been very different being afforded the level of hospitality that his family than those who were heading west. Questions have reputation and stature would demand. been asked about his departure in February for Inde- pendence Missouri with only two wagons and 15 ser- As we de- vants. The weather can be very unpredictable at that parted Fort time of year. One can only guess he was traveling Larned we light to make speed to sale the furs in Independence approached and buy wagons and goods with the gold and silver Pawnee he carried in the “strong box” for a return trip to home Rock, an and his family. He guessed wrong about the weather important and could not have predicted the encounter with the landmark to McDaniel’s Gang. the early travelers, We traveled east on Highway 50 on the Santa Fe that once Trail following the Arkansas River which provided soared over 150 feet above the plains. The landmark water, game, feed and shade to the caravans. Don would have been reassuring to the early traveler to Antonio know they were on the unmarked trail and not lost. Jose Arrival at Pawnee Rock would be cause for celebra- Chavez tion as it took the marked the Cimarron half way Route point of the through the Trail to northeast- Santa Fe. ern corner From atop of New the rock one Mexico and can see the pan- miles in all handle of directions. Oklahoma into Kansas Territory. I anticipated arrival The Arkansas River is to the south and it has been at the location where the Cimarron Route met up recorded that at one time one could see herds of buf- with the Mountain Route west of Dodge City. When falo migrating and grazing from horizon to horizon, the routes merged I was now traveling on the trail tens of thousands of buffalo. Don Antonio surely that Don Antonio traveled on his last journey. We climbed to the top of the Rock. He would have passed the Point of Rocks, the Caches Site, and looked first to the west toward his home 300 miles other natural landmarks marking the trail. The high- afar across the dry plains and then to his destination. way crosses over the Arkansas River at some of the (Continued on page 14) 14

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail...continued He was in dire straits by this time. He had lost most not tolerate any activity that threatened the emerging of his mules and ten of his servants deserted him. He commerce trade with New Mexico. sent one of the faithful servants east to seek help for the caravan. He couldn’t turn back. He was at the Maggie Carlson, Coronado - Quivira Museum Direc- halfway point and travel along the eastern half of the tor, provided me the opportunity to review documents trail improved and the threat of Indian raids was donated to the museum by descendents of the safer. McDaniel family. The documents consisting of court testimony and letters written by and on behalf of Don Antonio’s trek continued east and he left the Ar- John McDaniel makes the claim that John McDaniel kansas River at Great Bend and headed towards the was an innocent man and was unjustly executed. I Little Arkansas River. He only got as far as Owl perused the documents and the family claim of inno- Creek Crossing when he was accosted by the cence is based on the belief that John McDaniel took McDaniel’s gang. Unfortunately, the servant who was Don Antonio prisoner on Texas territory and that he sent for help met up with the McDaniel gang. The was not the “trigger man” in the execution of the pris- servant informed John McDaniel of Don Antonio’s oner. The location of the execution is miles north of situation and his meager protection of four servants. the Arkansas River, the boundary of the Texas Re- It was easy for McDaniel to surmise that Don Antonio public, in United States Territory. Court testimony of was carrying gold and silver to purchase goods. The a member of the gang and a servant corroborated gang took Don Antonio prisoner and after three days John McDaniel planning the execution and taking they drew straws to decide who was to execute him. part of it. The actions of the gang splitting up the loot Don Antonio was taken away and gunshots were and heading back to Missouri rather than Texas indi- heard. A servant testified at the trial that he saw Don cate their self serving objective of killing for self gain. Antonio running from his captors and he was shot dead. A legacy of family ancestry dating back centu- Maggie Carlson, museum director, took us to the site ries was taken in a moment by the greedy gang. His of the incident. The “Chavez” marker is located on body was thrown into the creek along with the wag- private property off a dirt farm road which follows the ons. The captors took the gold and silver from the Santa Fe Trail. wooden strong box attached to one on the wagons. Behind the marker The servants were released and headed for safety at is Jarvis Creek, a Bent’s Fort. dry creek, where the body was John McDaniel was commissioned by the Republic stripped and of Texas to recruit soldiers with the intent of robbing thrown. Don Anto- Mexican traders to fund the Republic of Texas for the nio was held pris- purpose of claiming New Mexico as part of the Texas oner at this loca- Republic. John McDaniel was only successful in re- tion for 3 days cruiting 14 men, including his brother David. The while the captors men were from Missouri and to the person were of argued about his fate. I can only imagine his praying questionable character. Word had spread of their and hoping the captors would be satisfied with the intent and lawmen were on the lookout for the gang. spoils of the raid and allow him to go free. His The hunt for the members of the gang who had split thoughts and gaze would have been to the trail west the loot was swift and they were soon apprehended. and return to his home and family in New Mexico but The men were brought to trial and four men who had it wasn’t to be. The murderers were brought to jus- been directly involved in the assassination were sen- tice. The body was recovered and Doctor Conley of tenced to die by hanging. The others were given Boonville, Missouri delivered the remains to New prison sentences and fined. John and David McDan- Mexico and married the widow Chavez. All of the iel were hung. Sentences for the other two were gold and silver was not recovered. It is believed Don commuted by the President of the United States. The Antonio cached some of the gold and silver before actions of the United States government sent a mes- he was captured and it has never been found. sage to Mexico and Republic of Texas that it would (Continued on Page 15)

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail...continued Visiting the site of the murder was a moving experi- ing up trade between Mexico and the United States ence. The incident occurred 179 years ago and the and making the area safe for settlers who followed location has changed little. There are no structures the traders. The Historical Rice County exhibit took or equipment to be seen. Jarvis Creek is a dry creek us to the next chapter of our history, the settlement bed as it would have been at that time. The grass- and farming of the region. We explored Rice County lands have been replaced with cultivated fields of and the towns of Lyons, Geneseo, Little River and winter wheat and one can imagine herds of buffalo Sterling. The sizes and populations of the towns grazing in these fields. I walked upon the ground that have changed along with the method of farming but Don Antonio walked and I naturally looked west as the mission of harvesting the crop has not. In every he did. I wonder if he ran in that direction away from direction farm equipment was slowly moving across his captors at those last moments before he was miles of fields harvesting winter wheat. We saw con- shot. voys of trucks being filled with harvested wheat heading to the co-ops and freight trains arriving to The Coronado Quivira Museum is a wonderful ex- take the wheat to market. It is a busy time and we perience, a gem in a little place. The exhibits feature were invited by Les Alderman to visit his farm and Francisco Vasquez de Coronado visit to Rice County help bring in the wheat, an enjoyable experience. in 1541, the Quivira Indians, The Santa Fe Trail and historical Rice County in the early 1900s. The Coro- Our travel east on the Santa Fe Trail took us to Jar- nado exhibit expands the explorations of the Con- vis Creek and turned the clock back to 1843. Our quistadors from the inscriptions at El Morro National return home west on Highway 50 traveling 65 miles Monument near Zuni, NM to south central Kansas. per hour in the comfort of our vehicle with air condi- tioning brought us back in time but I could not help but calculate that each hour in our auto we were cov- ering a distance that would have taken a caravan at least 5 days with the threat of hostile Indians, wolves, stampeding buffalo and bad weather impeding their progress. We revisited the historical markers and sites along the highway with a deeper appreciation and understanding of their significance. We continued through Fort Dodge and the Cimarron Route turnoff which would have been Don Antonio’s way home to his family with a load of goods purchased in Independence or St. Louis. I prayed that he was watching over us.

Our journey back to The Santa Fe Trail exhibit includes the strong box Pueblo took us through that was stolen from Don Antonio Jose Chavez by Garden City and we the McDaniel gang in 1843. The wooden strong box headed for the Big Tim- was returned to the Chavez family in New Mexico bers Museum in Lamar, and later was acquired and donated to the Coronado CO and the Otero Mu- Quivira Museum. The box is properly displayed on seum in La Junta, CO. the side of a reproduction of a wagon as it would The Otero Museum is have hung in its time. I touched the wood of the box named after Miguel An- and the gap of 187 years spanning from 1843 was tonio Otero, who was a closed. The Chavez strong box is a historical treas- prominent politician of ure and the highlight of our trip. It was time to close the New Mexico Terri- the chapter and move on. tory and instrumental in the economic develop- The arrival of the railroad marked the end of The ment of the territory, including the railroad. Santa Fe Trail. The Trail served its purpose of open- (Continued on page 16) 16

The Last Journey of Don Antonio Jose Chavez on the Santa Fe Trail...continued His son, Miguel Antonio, served as Territorial Gover- dent to the Santa Fe Trail Research Site at nor of New Mexico for two terms. Visiting the Otero www.santafetrailresearch.com maintained by Larry Museum was important to me because of the family and Carolyn, St. John, KS. tie to Don Antonio Jose Chavez. Miguel Antonio Otero was the brother-in-law of Don Antonio. His sis- ter, Maria Francisca Chavez, married Miguel Antonio Otero. Miguel Antonio Otero was born in 1829 and died in 1882 and was fourteen years of age when Don Antonio, was murdered in Kansas.

Our trip home on the Trail brought us back with a stronger appreciation of my ancestors and a desire to carry on their spirit of adventure and creating a better place for others. I am proud of them and can only hope to live up their accomplishments. I am im- pressed with the dedication of so many people, paid staff and volunteers, who are enthusiastically pre- serving and sharing our history with others. I wish to acknowledge and give credit for the information in (Note...some of the illustrations used in this article this narrative about the “Jarvis Creek Crossing” inci- were supplied by the editor from Internet sites.) A look Back at the Bent’s Fort Chapter What was our chapter doing in year’s past during the Hutton, Lolly Ming, Luella Marlman, Dale & Teresa summer months? The number in () is how many Kesterson, Mark Mitchell, Phil Petersen members participated.  August 2002: Rails & Trails Amtrak tour, La Junta  August 1995: tour to Big Timbers Museum, Koen to Las Vegas, led by Deb Smith and Eric Weis- Barn, Bent’s New Fort, Old Fort Lyon, John Martin man, (40) Reservoir, led by Dale & Teresa Kesterson and  August 2003: tour of Branson, Trinchera, Emery Craig Moore, (42) Gap, Toll Gate Canyon, led by Richard Louden  June 1996: Granada Ft. Union Military Route,  August 2004: meeting at El Pueblo Museum, Pritchett, Baca County, led by Don & Lolly Ming, Pueblo, (20) (50)  September 2005: ride on Cumbres/Toltec RR  July 1997: Raton Pass to Cimarron & Rayado,  June 2006: tour of Picketwire Canyon NM, combined with Corazon chapter, led by  July 2007: tour of museum in Kit Carson, CO, with Nancy Robertson, (90) presentation on Miguel Otero  August 1998: Hoehne, Trinidad, Wootton Ranch,  July 2008: Kit Carson Museum, Las Animas, plus Trinidad, hosted by Lolly Ming, Katherine Berg, dinner at Boggsville, presentation by Ms. Jordan Richard & Willard Louden, (32) Pickrell, U of Pennsylvania on historical and ar-  July 1999: wagon ruts and general area of historic chaeological research at Boggsville and Old Las campsite of Gen. Stephen Kearny and The Army Animas City. All area historical associations were of the West, 1846, tour on private land, led by Bill invited to attend, free dinner, (82) & Luella Marlman, Dale & Teresa Kesterson, and  July 2009: tour of Wilson Ranch, rock art, home- Henry “Buster” Manifor, (44) steader remains, Hackberry Springs Canyon site  July 2000: archaeology at Bent’s New Fort & Old of 1868 battle between US Calvary & Cheyennes, Fort Lyon, led by Richard Carrillo, Phil Petersen, led by Lolly Ming, Kelly Vap, (24)  July 2010: two-day tour to Cimarron, NM, St.  June 2001: six western chapters of the Santa Fe James Hotel, Aztec Mil, old Plaza, Maxell home Trail Association met in southeastern Colorado, site, Philmont Ranch, led by Lolly Ming, (30) tours to Boggsville, La Junta sites, Bent’s New  July 2011: Otero Museum, presentation by John Fort, Hole in the Rock, hosted & organized by Dub Sells on stagecoaches in the American West, (56) Couch, Richard Carrillo, Emery Murray, LaDonna 17

BENT’S FORT CHAPTER 2012 MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION

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President Membership Historian Pat Palmer Kathy Wootten Ed Stafford (719) 336-4323 (719) 688-7634 (719) 384-8956 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Vice-President Tours Director Trail Marking Marcia Will-Clifton Pat Palmer Charlie Hutton (970) 690-1123 (719) 336-4323 (719) 254-7266 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Secretary Education Publications LaDonna Hutton Richard Carrillo Rod Podszus (719) 254-7266 (719) 384-8054 (719) 339-5543 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Treasurer Trail Preservation Hospitality Emery Murray Kevin Lindahl Don & Kitty Overmyer (719) 456-2050 (719) 469-1894 (719) 469-2484 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

SFTA Rendezvous 2012 Slated for September 20-22...Santa Fe Trail Characters—Rendezvous on the Road

This year’s SFTA Rendezvous will bring to life histori- One of the special events will be the dedication of the cal characters from the Trail’s history. Characters who Kaw marker at the Santa Fe Trail Center and a pres- will be portrayed in the first person include William entation by Lonnie Burnett, Kaw Tribal Council Mem- Becknell, Julia Archibald Holms, Pedro Sandoval, Fre- ber. The National Park Service and SFTA have been derick Hawn (Deputy Surveyor for the General Land establishing relationships with Native Americans to tell Office), Kit Carson, Marion Sloan Russell, Alexander their story of the Trail and the dedication of this marker Majors, James Kirker, Maria de la Luz, Beaubien Max- is an important step in those efforts. well, and J.B. Kickok. For more information, visit the SFTA website at Other activities include lectures, panel discussions, www.santafetrail.org or call 620-285-2054. All mem- and daily tours to historic sites such as Pawnee Rock, bers of SFTA will receive a registration packet in the Old Fort Larned, and Cheyenne and Kaw village sites. August 2012 issue of Wagon Tracks. 18

[email protected] (719) 339-5543 1507 North Weber Street Colorado Springs, CO 809