ARIZOnR HIGHWAY✓ O(TOBE-R ·• • 1938 w u�
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-"'-+-:).� "'"'.: .:,.. ��a,·o> "<:l..., i::i:;:;.: <:l "' .:"' i::l ...,"'.. <:l ..."' "' "',,_ �..., � ;ii • new, positive, independent, twin-rope crowd ...,;:,, .: • automatic lubrication ... all gears run in oil ;:l C 0 "' • power rides free on 37 anti - friction bearings �... 0 Get the big, 32-page bul- C e • speedlined transmission ■ ■ ■ short-cut for power \..) letin which illustrates these and t/2 .: many other money-maki n ;ii g, • two-speed propel ... sharp turns or long curves � C \..) money-saving features of the a Cl � new 20-B. • positive traction brakes .•.no blocking of cats a"" Cl � � ..:i � � Q a� is: • • • BEAUTIFUL OCTOBER ARIZONA HIGHWAYS THE HIGHWAYS OF ARIZONA October is a beautiful month in Arizona. Up in the moun PUBLISHED IN THE INTEREST OF GOOD ROADS BY THI? An eastern visitor, an authority on roads and road building throughout their length from New Mexico through Arizona. The tains, away up on the Kaibab Plateau, you will find a golde11 ARIZONA HIGHWAY DEPARTMENT in the United States, was asked to express his opinion of the first of these roads, Highway 60, is asphalt surfaced all but a brown October with the aspen leaves browning and falling to RAYMOND CARLSON, EDITOR highways of Arizona. short distance and within the next year this will be completed. the ground. B u t CIVILIZATION FOLLOWS THE IMPROVED HIGHWlAY down in the valleys "The amazing thing to me," he said, "is that you have roads U. S. Highway 89, which extends from Nogales, on the you find a gay, sun ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR at all. I have traveled miles and miles Mexican border in the south, to Fredonia, shiny October, with 10c PER COPY on the Utah border in the north, a distance o n 1 y the crispness through your deserts and mountains ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. ARIZONA _. of the morning and of 592 miles is practically asphalt surfaced ��� HIGHWAY DEPARTMENT, PHOENIX, ARIZONA without seeing a farm, without passing ' �r' - . ' . : "':-::_::-··· : j_I ·'.,. � ·;:, . evening an indica PRINTED IN THE U. S, A, throughout. This is Arizona's link in the . . through a small village. For a state . tion that summer is '.t. ,,, , > ,'. •' so sparsely settled to have such fine Canada-South American highway. The I' �ii/<•' ·, ,, going and winter is VOL. XIV. OCTOBER, 1938 No. 10 hard surfacing of this highway between -=< . •. . -�·�·· ��--'.-- � : •·���:� on its way. highways is to me, not only admirable ··:,·r·· ··.,:;, ·\? 1.j·_;'.:�;j ,/) .:iJ "'--- but astonishing." Flagstaff and Fredonia was one of the 0 ctob er is a R. C. STANFORD, GOVERNOR OF ARIZONA high spots in the highway building program pleasant month in ARIZONA S'£ATE HIGHW!.A.Y COMMISSION He was confused by the wide open . u··�j ;tt·,\J·· -:�: · \t��\ __::� Arizona, with the of this state during the past year. � ..... � ·" SHELTON G. DOWELL, E. C. SEALE, spaces. The extensive highway system tt'; schools and colleges Chairman. Douglas . Commissioner, Prescott getting into swing, J. W; ANGLE, JOHN M. SCOTT, maintained in Arizona is the result of Other items stressed in the past year have .tt Vice.Chairman, Tucson Commissioner. Holbrook been extension of asphalt surfacing on Highway 60 between and with the win R. G. LANGMADE, l\I. L. WHEElLER, careful planning. Our major highways carry a stupendous ter season starting. Commissioner, Phoenix Secretary. Phoenix burden, because traveling Americans, recreation and pleasure Globe and Springerville, the stress of roadside improvement Football holds sway A.. R. LYNCH, Assistant Attorney General, Special Counsel seeking, are nosing their automobiles into this state each year and beautification, and the continuation of a reconstruction in the r e a 1 m o f HOWARD S. REED, STATE HIGHWAY ENGINEER in greater numbers. During the first six months of this year and realignment program on the major highways of the sys ,_r,�,C,••-"'�"-.;•,.,_:�:z.. :: ...�i= -::::::.;:"' .... sports; and from 166,290 automobiles from foreign or "out-of-Arizona" states tem to bring obsolete roads up to the modern standards of all over the world people come to escape cold weather and find rest and relaxa entered Arizona. This load, added to the load of state traffic, road design required by high speed travel. tion in the land of the sun. creates an insatiable demand for bigger and better roads. That Visitors to the state are sometimes timid about traveling the * * * • is the mission of the Arizona highway department. Arizona highways that cross the mountainous areas of the OCTOBER PICTORIALS-Joe Miller is responsible for state. Roadbuilding through mountains is costly, but it has the cover, an unusual and attractive study of San Xavier near The Arizona highway system is comprised of 3500 miles of been the function of the highway department engineers to Tucson. Joe has just started photography, but the results he TABLE OF CONTENTS road, of which 2500 miles are asphalt surfaced. Towns, cities build into these mountain highways those features that make is getting have been exceptional. And as we are speaking of and counties maintain some 25,000 miles of road, varying in Joe Miller, we wish to call attention to his study of "Yuma HIS MAJESTY-THE SAGUARO ...... 5 travel swift and safe. Highway 60 between Globe and Springer design from country roads to city streets. But the big load The Transitional City," in this issue. Yuma is rich in the ville traverses a very mountainous region, yet travel up to 60 memories of the past and yet that proud little city is a promise of inter-state and intra-state traffic is borne by the state YUMA-THE TRANSITIONAL CITY...... 8 miles an hour is not hazardous. The visitor to Arizona will of the future. highways. * •· ,, : find that the Arizona highway department is constantly trans We are producing "South Wind" by Norman Rhoades Gar There are four main east-west arteries, U. S. Highways 60, lating into its roads the most advanced thought in highway rett in our centerpiece. Mr. Garrett, a Prescott pictorialist, WHISKEY ROW: PORTRAIT OF A STREET...... 11 66, 70, and 80, of which the last three are asphalt surfaced construction science. is a member of the Royal Academy. of London and is one of the very best. His snow scenes are classics and we intend to MAN MADE WONDERS OF ARIZONA...... 13 reproduce some this winter. The other centerpiece is a strik ing view of Rainbow Bridge, just across the line in Utah, but ARIZONA'S PIONEER IRRIGATORS ...... 14 of easiest access through Arizona. J. B. Priestley wrote of it in "Rainbow on the Desert" in the "Satevepost." "Wonderland of Rocks," a study of which we have by Nor TWO ARIZONA PICTORIALS ...... 16-17 man G. Wallace on the inside front cover, is in Cochise county some 70 miles from Douglas. It is one of the most eerie look VEST POCKET HORSES ...... 18 ing sights in the state. Norman G. w·allace gives us a panorama of Tombstone on ARIZONA HIGHWAY PATROL ...... 20 the inside back cover. Tombstone describes itself as the ''Town Its Mission and Functions too tough to die." W. M. Tillery, one of the ablest pictorialists we have ever presented, shows again his consummate artistry A.LONG THE HIGH\li1 AYS AND BYWAYS ...... 21 in "vVrinkles" and "Skyscape." Our only regret is that we haven't more Tillery pictures to present from time to time. * * ::: STUDY OF CACTUS ...... 22
ROAD PROJECTS UNDER CONSTRUCTION ...... 29
SCENE OF HIGHWAY 60 ...... Back Cover • G.H:NEHAL Ol!'ll'IC.U: SID SMYTH, J. S. MlLLS, Deputy State Engineer Engineer of Estimates VERNON G. DAVIS. H. C. H,A'£CHER, Vehicle Superintendent Statistical Engineer IL A. HOFFMAN, WILLIAM F. CLARK. Bridge Engineer Chief Accountant E. V. MILLER. THOMAS RUi\IANS, Engineer of Plans Patrol Superintendent .r. W. POWEHS. F�ng-inecr of l\[aterials ED WEJS'l', ll. J. HOLLA:\'D, Right of Way Agent Engineer of Equipment W. i\L MURRAY. SWAN A. ER!CJ,SO.'I, Purchasing Agent and Supt. Engineer of Certification of Stores
FIELD E.'IGINEF.HS .T. It. VAN HOH:\', District Eni;:ineer District No. 1 F. N. GHANT, District Eni;:i11cer District No. 2 It C. PERKINS,l District E11g-incer District No. 3 \V. R. I-IU''CHINS, District J<;ng-lneer District No. 4 NORMAN G. WALLACE Pl•,ltCY .TONES, Chief Locating Engineer: VAN BUREN STREET -Near Phoenix. OCTOBE:R, 1938 3 2 .t-1 wide road to carry the heavy traffic. ARIZODA HIGHWAYS By GUSSE THOMAS SMITH slender, wooden poles knit together at its leaves and spreading them in a smooth, constricted base and joined again at the pale green rind exactly to fit all the top of the column. These poles are more ridges and grooves of the Sagaro's stately UNSHINE and silence. Every resilient than solid wood, take less plant body. All the elements of the true leaf where tiny heat waves wiggle food and water and leave more room for are there, with one surface pasted down like millions of glass caterpil the pulp which is extremely important, and the other evenly covered with a coat lars hurrying absurdly. Far as this pulp is from ninety-five to ninety ing of gray wax which ruffs up in a thick off purple mountains are altars eight per cent water and is the storage fuzz in hard droughts, and cuts evapora against the blue horizon. It is reservoir on which the life of the Saguaro tion to its least possible minimum. Over the desert, the realm of His Majesty, depends. Ridges and furrows run along all the Saguaro wears an adjustable veil the Saguaro. With dignity he dominates the lines of these poles from base to top formed by the interlacing of the thick and for his benign service is he exalted of every column and in drought draw clusters of spines growing in aureoles but try to describe him to a stranger! together like the bellows of an accordion, along the ridges of its flutes. When the You only get tangled in a tangle of words. pulp is full of water, the ridges are spread wide apart, the cactus looks fat The Giant Cactus ( Cereus giganteus and the spines do not touch. But when or Carnegiea g·igantea) is a flowering nIS Majesty, the Sa the drought comes and the tree is fight tree forty to sixty feet high, covered with guaro, is the sovereign supreme ing for its life, they draw together and leaves that cannot flutter. Sometimes it of the desert. The blistering by mingling their tips form enough air is a single green column, a little like an sun holds no terror for him, and cooled shade to cut off as much as twenty up-ended cucumber pared down at the five per cent of the direct burn of the he flourishes on the smallest base to suggest a fierce exclamation desert sun. point. Sometimes it has half a hundred amount of water. Nature eqmp- These spines are stickers in the high branches of equal size and shape, fruited, ped him well. est sense of the word. Hard, resinous ridged and spined exactly alike. An av erage specimen will weigh six to eight wood, awl-shaped, set in furry pads in a tons when thirsty, and drink two tons of definite pattern, they stick on their job rain water on a binge. throughout the long life of the Saguaro. But why bother? The stranger won't Those near the base turn black with age as the centuries pass, while the new, believe his ears. Show him a good pho cutting down the surface exposed to evaporation. In times of plenty they tograph, or better still, present him to young ones at the tip crown the tall Sa expand and give room for the storage with a silvery cap. His Majesty face to face. Remember he guaro of water. is found no where else on earth except The roots of the Saguaro are shallow Neither could this budget-balancing in the lower Sonoran zone of North Amer ly placed and widely extended and have wizard support thousands of wasteful ica, that long, graceful curve of desert incredible cleverness in drawing the mi little leaves, with two surfaces always starting in northern Old Mexico and ex nutest particle of moisture from the loose offering moisture to the air, yet no tree tending over southwestern Arizona into detrital soil. When the hard, black seed can breathe without leaves. This puzzle the foothills north of Phoenix. A varied has traveled by chance of flood or wind must have taxed even Mother Nature as assortment of Cereus cousins grow in or drifting sand about the desert until its she helped work out the brand new ar South America and elsewhere, but Ari shell is worn thin, and has found some rangement of gathering in the separate zona's own state flower, the true Sa suitable depression with just the right guaro, has shaped its character through amount of warmth and protection, it con eons of evolution to fit this land alone centrates for a long time on its work and has never wandered from its home. underground. The end of the second Even its name is unique, with no an year may find, if all goes well, only a cient root and very little history. The little gray fuzz one-fourth of an inch early Spanish soldiers, riding north out above the ground. Growth is exceedingly of Mexico in search of the seven cities slow. At forty years of age the plant of gold, passed through Papagueria and is approximately thirty-six inches tall. heard the Papago Indians calling this After this it may reach a maximum giant cactus "friend" in syllables which growth of four inches in a single year. sounded like sa-war-ra, or, in Spanish It is practically immune to all plant dis spelling, saguaro. So this they called eases and has the ability to heal scars it, this master of abundant life in the made in its body by coating them with midst of desert conditions. a strong, woody surface which defies decay indefinitely. Of course, the most pressing problem of the Saguaro has always been finding How old is the oldest Saguaro is any and conserving moisture and it has per body's guessing game. Smart guessers fected some amazing economies in its avoid being too definite. Dean Thornber solution. in his book "The Fantastic Clan" says Instead of squandering its substance on "There are Saguaro out on the Great a solid trunk like an ordinary tree, it American Desert that were old when thC' compromised by developing a cylinder of thirteen colonies became a nation m W. M. TILLERY OCTOBE:R, 1938 5 WRINKLES. This character study of His Majesty, the 8n,r7w1,ro, revecll.s a structure th.at m.akes him kin_q of the de.�ert, n noble .sovereiyn who hw; no fea.r of the sun, no fen.r of the heri.t, aud who has n secret all his own of quenchiny his thirst: • •
By BARBARA BAXTER
Morning breaks upon the desert like the muffled roll of drums, While the land lies hushed and breathless, reverent as the new day comes, Then the first long rays of sunlight crown the hills with molten gold, And the desert stirs and wakens as the mists of morn unfold,
◄ There's a vastness and a glory of religious pageantry, ► When it seems the very mountains kneel in humble majesty ; When the thorny-ribbed saguaro lift their gaunt arms to the sky, And the flame-tipped ocotillo fling their glowing torches high.
Then you hear the awful silence all its myriad voices raise, Till it seems to swell a chorus in triumphant hymns of praise. Now the sun in fiery splendor bursts in glory o'er the plain, With a rocket flare of color heralding it's day again.
Mountain told me of the greatest thrill 1776. Proud and dignified and stately by · they stand out there in the great alone, of her life and my heart has been visited silent sentinels of a long gone past, still a gh�st of envy ever since. In the soft hardy in the towering strength of their June dawn she entered His Majesty's great age, with yesterday gone forever court and on a low, twisted limb found and looking to the day that is yet to a bloom she could take in her hands and come." reverently examine. Under the circle of petals and the golden core of stamens With the century-slow pulse of the she found free water in the green cone, desert all processes of life and death are retarded. Who can say how many cen enough to last out the life of the bloom's turies it takes to bring a Saguaro to full short span of beauty. In the dawns maturity, how long it may stand in the and days that followed she learned that fullness of its strength and how long its when the flower opens in the night or vitality may take to gradually recede un early morning the cone is full of water ; til death itself is accomplished? by four o'clock, when the bloom closes, the water has disappeared. Is there We only know that through the centu another plant on earth which presents ries the same magnificient plant, disre its flowers in a vase of water to keep garding drought and all lesser discourage its loveliness fresh? ments, meets every June with a superb Toward the end of June the Saguaro '. coronet of cream-white blossoms around ••�J i.�... _:')li:., :J, .....�t°• Jf�,°?-"t the tips of each of its columns. These fruit appears, a sort of pear about the ·.-1,..,, blossoms are almost as delicate and ex ,•. size and shape of a large, flattened duck quisite as those of the Saguaro's timid egg. But the story of the fruit must little cousin, the Night Blooming Cereus. wait. Much more also waits to be told They appear singly, bloom in the night of the Saguaro's life story, the strange and remain open less than one full day, nature of its pulp, the part the birds are shaped like an ice cream cone and play, the wine cups of the Papago Indians are about that size. The cone has a and their harvest ceremonials, the legends rough, green rind, delicately attached to of the origin of the Saguaro and the gen the areole at its pointed end. Out of its erous gifts it has made to the desert dwel wide top spread waxy, fluted petals in a. lers through the long centuries of its iso flattened surface four to five inches lation. in diameter, around a golden center of His majesty, the Saguaro, is worthy of stamens, which reach the incredible num a book of records and recognition ; a few ber of three thousand to the single feeble articles can only introduce you at blossom. court. Your own interest and insight A desert lover who lives in the sun may then bring you to a fuller realization shine and beauty beyond old Camelback of the wonder of his noble nature. • OCTOBE:R. 1938 7 considerable business activity though mostly of a government nature. It was • · often said that this was an excellent site for the establishment of a town for business, if there was any business in Arizona. True, the outlook wasn't very uma-The Transitional City promising at that time. Political corruption was not entirely By JOSEPH MILLER foreigners and killed or wounded every unknown at this settlement in those days. Certain election officials created a one in sight. They plundered and de FRASHER'S FRASHER'S stroyed the village, casting sacred vessels strange rule that all men wearing shoes : l I 'i and images into the river. could vote. This was a polite way of in U.S. highway 60 crossing sand dunes sisting the Indians should be denied the Palm lined highway entering Yuma EW communities can reflect a News of the tragedy reached Sonora. near Yuma River to the Gulf and thence to the previous f selectionram sout hernof PhoenixArizona for the transitional history as can Yuma, The Spaniards sought revenge and the privilege, as most of them were barefoot. smelters at San Francisco and Wales. site had been nullified. Yuma was select Arizona's city on the Colorado following year marched on the Yumas, There was a great resemblance between ed and the promontory on which the River. That California possessed killing 108 and capturing 85. The In The first stage service operated from the Yumas and the Mexicans, though, 1 San Diego to San Antonio via this sta and, on election day, candidates supplied i,rison was built, with the rivers forming and collected taxes on the settle dians, however, remained hostile under ment for years would seem a Chief Palma for several years until over tion in 1857 and was followed by the a pair of shoes to each Indian he could an almost complete barrier and the vast myth as would the fact it was annexed to Butterfield Lines desert wastes FRASHER° S powered by troops from Sonora. the Territory of New Mexico. Finally, In the meantime . the body of Garces, which operated until stretching in all di when Arizona was separated from New true soldier of the cross, who received the outbreak of the rections, seems to Mexico as a territory in its own right, Main street, Yuma, a busy street in a his crown of martyrdom at the hands of Civil War. have been a logical choice for the site, at Yuma settled down once and for all as mission and namedbusy it townSan Dionisio. With those he sought to help, was returned to A postoffice was 1lie Ruins least for that period. an integral part of this State. the expulsion of the Jesuits from all Mexico along with the remains of his established here un Aside from its transitional ownership, Spanish possessions, Kino was compelled unfortunate brothers. der the name of The county seat of Colorado C i t y i n By MARJORIE BROOKE it was originally named San Dionisio by to desert his mission. Activity increased at this point during Yuma county was 1858. Arizona was Padre Kino, then Concepcion by Padre Another missionary, Padre Garces of these days, with immigrants on their way Massive, towering prison walls transferred from La declared a territory Garces, followed by Colorado City, Ari the Franciscan order, was sent from Mex to California and prospectors in search Tiny cells and narrow halls Paz (now a ghost the following year, zona City and finally Yuma. ico in 1775 with a few soldiers and fol of wealth. A military post, established A blistering hole of a dungeon cell town) to Arizona separating it from From its earliest days this point proved lowers to establish a mission among the across the river on the California side in Where now endured a living hell. City in 1870. The New Mexico terri- a haven to the explorer and traveler as 1849, afforded greater protection against Some men laughed and went insane steamer Nina Tilden Indians here. They were welcomed by tory, with the ap- there were no other signs of civilization the Yumas, as their chief, Palma, had the Indians. The post was named Camp Some men died in screaming pain, took on board all proval of President within 200 miles in any direction. In been to Mexico City and had seen the Calhoun. Later the name was changed And some of those God-forgotten men county officials and Lincoln in 1863. those days trails were few and difficult grandeur of the Spaniards. The Indians to Camp Independence and then Camp Never came out of their cells again, records and trans of passage, to say nothing of the peril Yuma. The post was abandoned for a The big flood of Till carried out to the hill below ferred them down of Indian depredations. year but reestablished in 1852 as Fort 1862 practically wip A convict still, in a dead man's row river. The first As early as 1538, two missionaries who Yuma. A rope ferry was put into opera ed out Colorado City. A number, a name upon a cross, newspaper, "Yuma had made their way through the rugged tion here, with the establishment of the The settlement was Sometimes even the names were lost. Sentinel," was estab country from the interior of Mexico, military camp, which afforded improved rebuilt and re-named Some of the crosses yet do stand, lished in 1871. Ariz on the cross crossed the Colorado River at this point OuMA, river crossing. The fort was garrisoned Arizona City after Tho' once the river covered the land ona City was incor on their way to California. They were roads of the world, has seen the with United States troops in 1856. the new territory. And carried a few from the lonely hill porated in March of presumably the first Europeans to have march of civilization in the west. A great deal of prospecting was done T h i s community Those that are left are prisoners still. that year. The Am 1•eached the junction of the Gila and Col Since the days of the Conquista in the late '50s northward from Yuma was made up of a Massive walls against the sky- erican population, in Every breeze a dead man's cry which was included orado rivers. During the year following, dores and the missionaries, she along the Colorado, the Indians having straggling collection several expeditions passed here, among of adobe houses con Every cell a vale of tears, all who were not has seen the passing of races been somewhat subdued. Placers were them the Spanish navigator of the Color worked only 15 miles above the Gila taining perhaps 200 And the ghosts turn back the weary years Mexican, in 1872 ado, Hernando de Alarcon ; also many and people. Promising, indeed, river about where the present Laguna inhabitants. H e re Till I hear again a clanking chain embraced just fiv� missionaries desiring to establish missions is her future. Dam has been placed. The discovery of and at Fort Yuma Like a deadly dream of a twisted brain, persons. In Febru among the Indian tribes nearby. the Gila Gold Placers in 1858 greatly were located th e Of massive towering prison walls, ary of 1873, by an United States quart Of tiny cells . . . . and narrow halls. act of the legisla Padre Kino, traveling down the Gila stimulated prospecting in the surround ermaster's d e p o t, ture, the site's name in 1700, came upon this rancherio at the ing territory. Silver lead ore was dis had v1s10ns of riches but, after a time, supply houses for all was officially chang- junction of the Colorado, established a seeing the priests without luxury and covered in 1860, 30 miles north, and in a short time the Silver District and Castle ports in Arizona. Supplies were brought persuade to vote for him. After the duty ed to Yuma from the Yuma Indian words the colonists tilling the soil, and with the up the Colorado River from the Gulf of had been performed, the shoes were re yah-ma-yo, meaning son of the captain, soldiers both brutal and lawless, the In Dome commenced to send their silver laden lead cargoes down the Colorado California by boat and distributed by possessed and loaned to another. There which, surprisingly so, it holds to the pre dians' attitude soon turned to hatred. mule teams to the forts in southern and sent time. Intensifying the situation was the arrival must have been some sort of inducement central Arizona. Of course, there was (Continued on Page 23) of a Spanish soldiery and a group of im to get an Indian to go to that much migrants from Mexico on their way to trouble. California. They camped here for a short Provision was made in 1867 by an act time before continuing on their journey. of congress for an Arizona penitentiary However, they left some of their number building. The following year the terri here in addition to over a thousand head of stock to feed on the green mesquite torial legislature designated Phoenix, beans which was the Indians' principal then in Yavapai county, as the prison food. The priests sensed the intensity of site. As congress failed to act in the the situation and endeavored to pacify contribution of funds, the legislature au COURTESY, ALLISON K. KETCH ERSIDE the Indians but to no avail. thorized the sale of bonds to provide funds for the purchase of land for the In July, 1771, while Garces was saying JOSEPH MILLER FRASHER'S 0 prison and the erection of the buildings. mass at the mission, a horde of wild, FRASHER S The S. S. Searchlight, about 1909, Several towns bid for the prison as the which carried travelers over the yelping Yumas swooped down upon the Old Yuma prison, where many terri Port of entry and Colorado river Colorado before the days of modern torial bad men came to the end of Telegraph Pass east of Yuma bridges highway and bridges their way 9 8 .ARIZODA HIGHID.AYS OCTOB€R, 1938 Whiske� Ro w-Portrait of a Street HEY built the first one out of By CHARLES C. NIEHUIS heads of soldiers, and gamblers, alike. logs, down on Granite Creek The biggest free-for-all Whiskey Row and called it the Quartz Rock ever saw is under way. What a fight! 7 Saloon; that was ba':k in 18�4. A hundred men, swinging bottles, But, as one Old Timer said, Glay at Fort Whipple and they're in to chair, table legs, spittoons-anything gamble and drink. The fitful yellow glare "The sight of water made the that'll knock a man out-are miiling in of smoking oil lamps lights up the place. customers sick," so they built the rest front of us. The air is sulphurous with of 'em up on Montezuma street and "Round and round it goes; where the curses, shouts and yells! called it Whiskey Row. ball stops nobody knows." A man goes down, to be lost from By 187 4 there was a full block of It's the sing-song from the dealer of sight by a rush of feet. saloons and gambling halls, where, they the roulette wheel! The click of the chips Shots spat into the ceiling as a cow say, the best "gambleers" of the world sounds as the men "get down" with their boy steps through the swinging doors, took post graduate courses in games of bets. The dealer's voice drones out: to join the scrap. He stops. Then a chance. That block became the epitome "Nine, red and odd, pay the winners and fusillade of shots rings out. Only the of the Old West. get down for the next roll." stabbing flash from his guns lights the Taking advantage of poetic license, Deft fingers pick up the ivory ball darkness. He's shot out the lights! let's call a halt in the march of time, from the cup of the turning wheel and Just before the last one vv ent out, and retreat to the middle eighties. Here send it spinning, faster than sight, over the bar, we saw Dan Thorne, pro we go down on the Row to live again, around the groove. prietor, climb up on the polished ma one night, with some of the characters Chips click again as we walk past the hogany. He is gloriously drunk! "Yip who made it famous. crap table. yip-yip-eeeeeeeeeeeeeee ! Go to it soldier, It's Saturday night, and the board give those gamblers hell!" "Who's that on the high-legged chair walk is packed with jostling, noisy, plea We slip along the bar and out of the with his hat pulled low over his eyes sure-bent cowboys, prospectors, miners door-just in time! A flying squad of and a sawed-off shotgun across his and soldiers. We split our throats on a M. P.'s from the post, go roaring into knees ?" you ask. He's the look-out If cowboy yell and it's echoed by some ! tht saloon. celebrating caballero on the other end Breathing a sigh of relief, we push of the Row. We see no cold-eyed, deft our way through the crowd and up the fingered, frock-coated gamblers because street and turn into the wide door of they're all inside "working." the Cobweb, the only two-bit saloon in And we meet no women except those IDmsKEY ROW, in town. Other places are twelve and a in the saloons, and they will be dance Prescott, was one of the most half cents a drink, or two for a quarter hall girls. Of course no respectable wo colorful streets of the west. We tbey don't have nickels and dimes on men are seen on Whiskey Row tonight. turn the pages of time to visit the Row. But they do invade the Row en masse Billy Vanderbilt runs this place and Whiskey Row when the west was on New Year's Eve-gala night of the that's he at the end of the bar, the bald year- dressed and masked so as to be young, and men lived and died headed fellow with the handle-bar mus absolutely anonymous. Queer custom of on their nerve and luck. tache, drinking with a couple of cronies. the roaring Old West that allowed its He's just finishing a story as we step good women to see how the other half up. The listeners roar with laughter Hved! y � "' a hold-up or trouble should occur you'd and Billy slaps the bar, saying, "Bell • .,., Whoa, careful there-watch your feet! up, boys, and have a drink on the house! ,.s::! see him blaze into action! c-� The level of the walk has its ups and Set 'em up, Baldy." ;:,, i::t::d downs. We step up to one level in front We stop at the faro table. Baldy Brown takes our order and men � The dealer is down to the last three ;:,,"'<> of one store, and drop down to planks get up from tables to get theirs. We .�� .,., laid on the ground in front of another. cards. Soldiers lean forward to make shake the clutching hands of a dance If the proprietor is wealthy, or even just the last play on the deal. They look at hall girl off our elbows, and pick up our �gC the "cases" kept by the old Chinaman u, doing well, he'll build his walk up off drinks. ;:,,J::t:: to see what cards will be the last two <::!"' tht ground. Must be rough going fo1· Billy Mulvenon, sheriff of Yavapai '"<::! some of these boys that have had several and they'll bet on the order of their county, walks in as we finish. Vander ;:,,...,,.s::! appearance. cS ~ ,::,, snorts too many. bilt greets him, "Hi, Sheriff !" Mulven � §� A ::::i <>l C As we near a saloon, the swinging drunken soldier leans over and on orders s t r a i g h t 0 <»d doors open, belching places a stack o.f chips on one of the whiskey, and stands sil ::,... �� cards to show.
OCTOBE:R, 1938 11 r
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I --- -·n n.. 1.. t:;- PHOENIX-At the turn of the Century. Here is Phoenix at the turn of the century, before the days of reclamation, before the days of modern highways which came R ff P to create a major industry. This picture was taken almost from the same position as the study of modern Phoenix on the preceding page. In the background is the old Adams hotel, long ago destroyed by fire. The street intersection on the left is Washington and First Avenue. Those were the days when sports about town had handlebar mustaches, when folks were humming "On a Bicycle Built For Two," and there was much of lavender and old lace. Remember?
ATURE garnished the land of By ground halls and vestibules then cloaked ?1Arizona with topsy-turvy re A. H. WEBER them with the most delicate colored drapes gions of scenic wonders. She and fantastic patterns. threw up tremendous mountain Over it all she spread her luxuriant peaks into the clouds and spread sunrises and sunsets and embroidered a mantle of rich forests over fleecy clouds, shading them with exquisite them. She created a strange silent hot GREAT are the nat golds, pinks, lilacs, and mysterious pur desert covered with savage cactus. At ural wonders of Arizona. And ples. In this enchanted land the calm the same time she produced a wide nude great, too, are the state's man restful nights were not neglected, for over region with various layers of colored made wonders, both of primitive the desert the Infinite swings luminous rocks, then played her eternal sunshine and modern · man. A writer heavenly bodies in such profusion and in and rainbow hues upon them through ex qualified to speak discusses the such a sharp atmosphere that they seem ceptionally clear atmosphere. Among marks of man in this land of the to hang low and gleam with a friendly her numerous accomplishments she buried last frontier. splendor. ancient trees long ago and turned them Nature, already lavish with her scenic into gem stones of resplendent beauty. creations, made sure of exceptional gifts With the erosive tools of wind and water choice scenic gem such as Oak Creek by sending a special messenger from outer Canyon trimmed with bold layers of ex space, burying a huge meteor on Arizona's she gouged out canyons so wide and deep posed colored rocks and decorated with soil as a monument to her matchless that they subdue and soothe man by their cool pines and a clear musical trout brook. powers. infinitely silent and majestic forces. In the Chiricahuas she has carved a gro But in this favored land of romantic Here and there between high and low tesque wonderland of weird silent granite scenes man has not been idle. He too has regions, between desert and. matchless forms and in another range nearby she built gigantic wonders in this region forested areas, nature has set down a has fashioned Colossal Caves into under- (Continued on Page 27) MODERN DA_ y PHOENIX. A. H. WEBER. Out of the desert man has worked and wrought and builded that a modern empire may flourish in the west. Here. you have a glimpse of a busy city, destined to be one of the great trade and cultural centers of western America. Yet not so long ago OCTOBE:R, 1938 i3 Phoenix was only a sleepy cow and farm town, dozing in the sun. (See picture opposite page.) Arizona's bandwagon is hitched to a star Arizona's Pionee't lrrigators
HEREVER water is artifi By ERNEST DOUGLAS "Never in the history of the world did cially applied to the soil fOl' men have to contend agai nst so W the purpose of producing formidable a foe as did the pioneer set crops, the symbol of the irri parable to that of ancient Egypt. There tlers of Arizona. Harassed on all sides gator is the long-handled was a long hiatus between the passing by the relentless Apaches, cut off from shovel with which he builds of the Ho-ho-kam-"those who vanished" civilization by the desert plains of New tapoons and otherwise directs the water -and the arrival of the restless Yankees Mexico and California, they lived a life where he wishes it to flow. But in Ari who dimly perceived possibilities for the of warfare and privations, a few determ zona, a scant half century ago, the most agricultural development of which we ined men against hordes of savage foes. necessary tool of the irrigator was a boast so proudly today. Many of· these hardy settlers fell victims rifle with which to stand off savage When we gaze upon Arizona's date to the Indian cunning, and the finding Apaches bent on scalping himself and his gardens and citrus groves, cotton and of a few bleached bones in after years family, running off his livestock, steal alfalfa fields, lettuce and melon "patches" was all the record left of their untimely ing his crops, and burning his home. nearly as large as many an eastern coun- departure." In Arizona irrigation has reached its The first Yankees came seeking furs, highest perfection as an occupation and gold and silver. Few had any idea of as an art. Here the wedding of soil and remaining more than a few months or years. But many were inevitably disap water brings forth a lush abundance un :QREHISTORIC men pointed in their seach for quick wealth believable to dwellers in less favored began the science of irrigation to be carried "back home." Among them, climes. Yet it is an art born amid strife in this state. After the civil war of course, were some with farm exper with ferocious enemies, with flood, with irrigation began again. The pi ience whose eyes could not be blind to drought, and between rival claimants to oneer irrigators had their prob the opportunities lying all about. Besides, the limited water supply without which lems-in the days of the ma they had before them the example of the fertile soil was worthless except as rauding Indians and before the scattered and tiny Mexicon colonies, and stock range. era of reclamation. of the Pima Indians on the Gila River Perhaps we should not say born, but at Sacaton. The Mexicans and Indians reborn. Irrigation has been carried on practiced ''subsistence farming," with in Arizona for countless centuries, pos try; when we hear that this land, the R. C. PROCTOR no thought of raising more than enough sibly since the coming of the first abor most productive on earth, sells for $200, for their own needs; yet they grew boun SALT RIVER. igine who wandered into the American $500, $1,000 an acre, we are likely to tiful crops of corn, barley, pumpkins, Pioneer irrigators used brush dams to direct the flow of this temperamental river in the valley. Then the river would "act Southwest. Here, however, we are re envy those pioneers who found such land melons and beans with a minimum of up" and wash everything away. ferring to the Anglo-Saxon period which here for the taking. Few of us, even effort. It was apparent that with white began in the 60's. So far back that we those of us old enough to have seen a skill and industry, results would be in grain. Fantastic prices paid for barley produced a crop that year they were The settlers pursued for twenty-five can only guess how many millenniums part of that pioneer era, realize the price comparably greater. freighted from California probably in ruined. miles, killed no Apaches, but recovered have elapsed, thousands of acres in Salt the old-timers paid in toil, hunger, anx spired the earliest attempts at farming. No surveyor was in the party, but a the animals, stuck full of arrows like River Valley, Casa Grande Valley and iety, death, disappointment. Of them, Troops were sent to protect the mining Some of those first farmers were dis member who had "carried a chain" in so many pincushions. One died and two elsewhere were under cultivation by a Arizona's first state historian, Thomas camps from raiding Apaches and the charged soldiers who elected to remain. Illinois undertook to lay out a ditch with recovered, only to be stolen later. race which developed a civilization com- Edwin Farish, has written : cavalry horses required food, especially So it can be said that the Apaches, who a plumb bob. Two or three men were On one raid the Indians got away with did so much to retard development of always left at the stockade to watch for nineteen head of cattle worth $3,000. agriculture in Arizona, were primarily Indians and guard the oxen. The others They cut the ditch. They set fire to the responsible for creating its first markets, worked from sunrise until it was too ripening grain. At night they stole what the military posts. dark to see at night, pausing only for green corn they were able to carry off, scanty meals of coffee, bacon, beans and destroyed as much more as they could. Typical of what all pioneer irrigators bread. "In August the first load of barley endured was the experience of the first Weeks later, several new members was taken to Prescott," Dr. Swetnam colonists on the Verde River . Across joined the colony and one of these de wrote. "It was not choice but was the from the present Camp Verde, this set clared that the ditch was laid out wrong. fruit of hard and dangerous labor. In tlement was founded in 1865 by a group A hot argument was finally settled by gathering the grain up, which was done of "hot-headed boys," so called by Pres throwing a dam across Clear Fork and by hand, the boys were often stung by cott people unable to dissuade them from turning in the water. It ran about 100 scorpions and sometimes a rattlesnake their foolhardy enterprise. They bought feet, then stopped. would roll out of the bunch and go wrig crude mold-board plows at "exorbitant "The atmosphere grew blue and sul gling away, but it was the Apache that prices," laid in a supply of seed barley phurous for awhile," records Dr. J. M. was the bane of life." at $50 a hundred pounds and of corn at Swetnam, historian of the party. "Many That load of barley brought $17 a hun $22, traveled fifty miles by ox wagon days of hard labor had been lost by the dred pounds. By fall the government had into what was then the very heart of the blunder, but they were not the kind of stationed a detachment of soldiers on the Indian country. men to repine. The upper end of the Verde, took over all the barley and corn First they had to build stone cabins ditch was lowered, the survey made on the settlers could spare at $13 .. Dr. Swet and a stockade for defense. These were a little lower level, and the work pro nam admits that this was some compen completed with all possible speed, since gressed without interruption until the sation, but adds : it was necessary to get at their agricul ditch was completed." " ...when it is remembered that during Hay for the army posts was the motive for farming activities by the pioneer irrigators. Lurking Apaches made farming tural labors. All had their entire assets Indians frequently appeared, and in the season the Indians had destroyed or hazardous, but high prices spurred the farmers on. This was long before the tractor replaced the horse, before the days of tied up in the venture, and unless they May a large band ran off three oxen. ( Continued on Page 24) the large storage dams. OCTOBE:R, 1938 15 14 ARIZOTIA HIGHWAYS () z u0
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Prickly Pear Cactus in Bloom OCTOB€R,Palace hotel1938 at extreme left. (Photo furnished by Allison K. Ketcherside) 23 settle as farmers on the shore of Utah's was dug, the land cleared and leveled and erative basis by the farmers they served. sown to crops. Food was scarce and there All were supposed to share equally in ■ ■ ■ Great Salt Lake, sent many a colony into the new territory to the south. Under was the ever-present dread of Indians. the labor of keeping the canal and dam Ar(Cizona'ontinued froms Page Pione 15) erfederate lr soldierrigators in the Civil War, started The main object of Swilling and his church discipline, fired by religious zeal Of the founding of another Gila Valley in service, contribute cash for lumber the first canal that had been dug in Salt friends was to produce hay for military as well as the home-making instinct, the colony, one of the L. D. S. historians has and other materials that had to be bought. carried away barley and corn to the River Valley since the days of the Ho-ho posts. In this they were successful, but Mormons were better co-operators than written : It was inevitable that disputes should amount of nearly $2,000, driven off horses kam. It headed about four miles east not with any great regularity or profit. most pioneers, their achievements more "In 1881 a small group of Mormon set frequently arise over division of the labor to the value of $500, and cattle to the of Phoenix in the vicinity of Pueblo Clearing the land of its thick mesquite lasting. All over Arizona we find the tlers arrived at Eden. They built bowers and division of the water. value of over $6,000, for which none of Grande, for parts of its distance followed and undergrowth jungle was a slow and traces of abandoned irrigation enter of brush under which they rolled their Let me tell you what happened every the settlers ever received any reimburse the course Qf a prehistoric Ulti laborious process, since they had no trac prises, but few of these were initiated covered wagons, to secure better protec year down on the lower Gila, where I ment, the profits were not large." mately it became the main supply ditch tor power in those days but only mules by Mormons. spent my boyhood. Usually there was acequia. tion from the pitiless Arizona sun, and In 1867 a picturesque, devil-may-care for the city of Phoenix, running along and oxen. Their canal filled with silt Consider the handicaps of the first had no other home for weeks. In 1882, plenty of water in winter and early frontiersman named Jack Swilling, who V'.ap. Buren street, and was filled in less from the muddy water, necessitating fre L. D. S. colony in Upper Gila Valley, eight families were living in a little stock spring, when the crops were planted. had originally come to Arizona as a. cbi,i- than a decade ago. quent cleaning. Their brush dams were which arrived in 1879. Like the settlers ade fort that enclosed a half acre of land There might be a period of shortage in continually being washed away. They on the Verde, they lacked a surveyor. near the river. As soon as these settlers May and June, until the summer rains experienced that alternating abundance Somehow they contrived, without serious arrived they began digging an irrigation came. For a few hours, or even days, and scarcity of water which was the error, to run their lines with a compass, ditch from the river. At times there the canal would carry all the water curse of Salt River Valley until the a plumb bob and a saw horse. Then they would be only one meal a day, and that everybody could use. Then it would go building of the Roosevelt storage dam plowed the route of the canal with a a meagre one. The men could scarcely dry suddenly-the dam was out again. and a permanent concrete diversion dam clumsy old-fashioned plow, pulled by summon enough strength to continue Or perhaps a flash flood in an arroyo at Granite Reef. Apaches were not as three yoke of oxen. A "lizard" was made their work." had cut the ditch in two. With the river much of a menace as farther north and a muddy torrent, there was no moisture by cutting down a forked cottonwood Thanks to General Crook and the re east, but at least one of their number was for the land. tree and nailing boards to each of the sistance of the settlers themselves, whose killed by Indians. large limbs that formed a V. This was numbers were growing steadily, the Ap Each farmer would haul several bar In William A. Bell's "New Tracks in heavily loaded with stones and dragged aches were gradually subdued. But this rels of water from the river for the fam North America," an account of a railroad along the plowed ground, with the result did not end the woes of the irrigators. ily to drink while he was away for survey trip in 1867-68, we find this para that most of the loosened earth was Floods were forever destroying their can the water from our shallow "dug" graph : pushed out. The plowing and "lizard" al heads and their dams. It was nothing wells was too salty for human use. He "I visited a farm in the San Pedro process were repeated and the ditch dug unusual for a river to shift and leave an would load his wagon with a "grub box," Valley before leaving Camp Grant. It the rest of the way down to grade with intake half a mile away from the stream. a plow, slip scraper, shovels and axes was only four miles from the fort and shovels and slip scr�p�rs. These scrapers "Whisker moss" and other plants flour for brush cutting, and drive away to join yet all the crops that autumn had been were box-like contrivances of cottonwood ished in the canals, causing the commonly his neighbors in repairing the damage. cut down and carried off before they boards, shod at the front end with a piece sluggish current to drop its load of silt were ripe by the Arivaipa Apaches, and If the break could be mended or the of iron such as an old wagon tire. and choke the channel. dam replaced before the river went dry, all that remained of the stock was a few we would have a crop that year. If not, pigs. Half a dozen soldiers were kept at These details give but a hint of the Most of the earlier canal systems were the sorghum and alfalfa and wheat would this ranch all the year round to try and trying conditions under which the canal maintained on a somewhat loose co-op- protect it, so the fort might be supplied with fresh farm produce ; yet during three years this farm had changed hands thrice ; the first man was killed, the second was scared away by the frequency of the attacks upon him, the third is now thoroughly disgusted and talks of set tling among the Pimas on the Gila." In reminiscences written for the Ari zona Pioneer Historical Society, Charles A. Shibell vividly reported what happened to a farming venture of his near Sonoita. Parties of Mexicans were frequently at tacked in the vicinity and one of Shibell's hired men was killed within 100 yards of the house. Stock was driven off "faster than we could replenish it . . . After harvesting the crop we abandoned the ranch and moved to Tubae." Farm workers and herders all carried rifles as a matter of habit and necessity. While plowing, a man would often have a rifle in a boot attached to the plow beam, and a revolver belted to his waist. Every farm house not within easy reach of a stockade was as much a fort as a residence. First Yankees to invade Arizona as homeseekers, and not with the intent of moving on as soon as a stake could be accumulated, were the Latter-day Saints, or "Mormons." Brigham Young, who had turned a deaf ear to the siren song of r California gold and bade his people to PAINTED DESERT. FLORENCE MARTIN Sagua1o fores ts -in Arizona ARIZODA HIGHWAYS OCTOBE:R, 1938 25 .24 wither, as well as our carefully tended several old canals in Casa Grande Valley. the water they paid for. Some of them ture's masterpiece. This wonderful dam garden truck and melons. This corporation had a capital stock of withdrew and built another canal. The would still be the greatest even if the Corporations entered the business of $500,000, sold "water rights" for 52,160 various companies we:·e financially pow Man-Made structure could be pushed over on its supplying water to farmers, as public acres at $3 to $15 an acre. Such a right erless to keep the system going on any down stream side. The base of the dam utilities but without the regulation to entitled the holder only to buy water at efficient basis. If the farmers had been would then be raised vertically to 660 which utilities are subject today. They an annual charge. able to pay several times as much, they Wonders feet which no other dam surpasses in took over and consolidated many small Still the capital was insufficient and still could not have kept the canal clean height. and a dam across the river. Nor could canals, built large ones at great expense a $300,000 bond issue was floated. The Another man-made structure built they have replaced the water diverted -and in every case went bankrupt. Their bondholders foreclosed in 1893, organized of Arizona across the upper part of the Grand Can by settlers above, which steadily depleted dams of lumber and boulders and earth a new company and sold an issue of ( Continued from Page 13) yon in a giant rock torn region is Navajo offered little more resistance th�n the $600,000. In 1900 the property was sold the flow. of sublime mountain gorges and hot dry Bridge. It resembles a small band brush obstructions of the farmers to for taxes ; a receiver was appointed in The truth is that large-scale irrigation desert lands filled with tremendous ob stretching across an immense gulf sur roaring freshets of the Salt and Gila. 1907 ; there was another tax sale in 1913 · in Arizona is possible only because of stacles. No doubt Arizona is best known rounded by drab barrenness, but it is 834 They had just as much trouble with ar operation continued under receivershi; concrete's indestructibility, and under co for its scenic attractions such as the feet long and connects the sheer walls of royos. And a company, with its treasury clear up to 1924, when Congress voted operative, intelligently managed associa Grand Canyon, the Painted Desert, amaz the deep canyon at its narrowest. At the exhausted, could restore service eve.n funds to construct Coolidge Dam and tions of land owners such as we have in ing Petrified Forest, and the fascinating lowest water level the bridge stands 467 · less expeditiously than a group of farm purchase the canal rights for the co Salt River, Casa Grande and Buckeye desert regions, but it is slowly becoming feet above the stream's edge, the highest ers whose treasury was their ability to operative San Carlos Irrigation & Drain Valleys. An irrigation system must be a land where man has combined with or bridge above water in the world. Like work hard in the face of repeated dis age District. owned by those whom it serves. The con Boulder Dam the preparation and trans couragement. ception of a corporation supplying irri competed with nature in producing some In the meantime there had been inces astonishing monumental structures. portation of materials was a tremendous An example is the Florence Canal sant litigation with creditors and with gation water to farms, the same as dom job in itself. Flagstaff is over 125 miles estic water to urban homes, is funda Foremost among Arizona's recent man Company, organized in 1887 to absorb suffering farmers who failed to receive made wonders is the ponderous Boulder from Navajo Bridge, and every bit of mentally wrong. Many tragic mistakes structure had to be hauled this distance were made before this lesson was learned. Dam, a mass of concrete, steel, and ma chinery that was wedged, foot by foot, over the rough dry hot Painted Desert History of the Florence Canal Com into a deep narrow ragged canyon by country on frightful roads. In the case pany is duplicated, with only minor vari stupendous will and effort. Here in of the Boulder Dam railways and roads ations, by that of many companies which northwestern Arizona the ingenuity of had to be constructed before work could tried to operate projects in other parts man has created a barrier 727 feet tall, actually begin on the dam. of Southern Arizona. An exasperated 1282 feet wide, and 660 feet thick at the One of the most remarkable man-made group of farmers once paralleled the base sufficient to throttle the terrible regions anywhere is the Salt River Val Grand Canal, in S lj,lt Riy�r Valley, with rage of the mighty Colorado. ley in central Arizona. Originally this their "Appropriators Ditch1 ." In Buck vast level valley was covered with unin eye Valley the same thing happened, only Inside the structure of the dam are hundreds of rooms, halls with elevators, viting, thorny cactus and strange desert a truce was reached with the old canal and work shops which remind one of a trees, surrounded by tall bare mountains A. H. WEB ER owners before the new one was completed. with a discouragingly dry hot summer The farmers who took their own teams giant office building. It seems almost unbelievable that behind this mountain climate. This dreadfully unfriendly des Now onMontezuma's the desert, iCastlenstead of weird and strength, and attempted to bring ert was made to bloom and flourish like cactus, great silent spaces, extreme heat water to their parched lands, underwent ous structure there is a body of water accumulating that will reach over 125 a semi-tropical garden to serve man. and desert dryness, are found large or hardships scarcely less trying than those When the Roosevelt Dam was built ange groves, large lettuce and melon of the Mormons on the upper Gila or the miles in length and over 500 feet deep. When man built an obstruction in an al and a lesser chain of three dams complet fields, beautiful homes, transportation "hot-headed boys" of the Verde. most impossible desert region large and ed on the Salt River in the tall desert facilities, and tall business structures ''Water stealing" long approached the powerful enough to create a lake almost mountains 45 to 90 miles from the capital with over 110,00 people scattered over the proportions of a major industry. Farm as large as Lake Champlain, largest in city, large lakes were stored in great valley. Because of a most successful ir ers still carried rifles, not to protect the state of New York, he comes near to mountain basins. With this liquid gold rigation project, cities, ranches, and a themselves from Apaches but to protect competing with nature. man developed a thriving community. southwest civilization have sprung up on their water. Many a settler, suspicious a desert waste land in slightly more than Not only is Boulder Dam the largest By doling out the waters from snowcap of his neighbors, sat with loaded gun by a quarter of a century. dam in the world, a suitable man-made ped peaks locked behind huge barriers of To create this man-made empire man his headgate until his "run" was over. wonder, but it is a fitting monument to stone, concrete, and steel, man has built has not only discovered the water sources Early court records abound with cases man's growing power and ingenuity to be and created in addition to the dams a in the mountains and a method of storing ?f farmers accused of forcing locks, pry located adjacent the Grand Canyon, na- great city. mg open gates, and taking a few precious this liquid wealth, but he has found inches of water to which they were not greater water supplies handy beneath the entitled. Disputes often resulted in shoot burning rocks and soil of the desert, and ings, sometimes in killings. Those living by constructing a system of pumps and a on the lower reaches of a canal always power plant his water supply for the fu
believed that those above them got more .I ture is assured. than their share, which often was true. There are other intriguing man-made With a supply that might not be equal monuments in Arizona. Some of them to the needs of a fourth of his patrons, white men had built in the distant desert the who could parcel it out in a region before 1700. These are the mel manner satisfactory to everyone was rare lowed missions of Tumacacori near No indeezanjerod. gales and San Xavier near Tucson. These grand old cathederals have stood the test How court decrees finally app:Htioned of time and wear remarkablv0 and the water rights on a basis of prior use, and things for which they were built have how those decrees are enforced, is a long, been the most enduring works of the long story in itself. They were not hand white man in the Southwest, for they ed down until _after the turn of the cen brought religion, civilizing influences. tury, when they helped to lay the founda agriculture, and culture to thousands of tion for the modern era of Arizona irri natives whose lives are still being in NOCTURNE R. C. PROCTOR gation. • fluenced today.
ARIZODA HIGHWAYS Early clny A.rizonn cotton market 26 OCTOBE:R. 1938 2'1 It Other man-made objects to create ad outlaw, and his gang made their quarters. Wltislze� Row: miration and keen interest for thousands was also the location for the Tomb of modern people are the ancient ruins of stone Milling Company which handled primitive man, especially the cliff ruins the rich silver ore from the Tombstone Portrait of a Street stuck high upon the side of a precipitous hills. The desolation of equipment, fur cliff. How these prehistoric savages naces, machinery, buildings once offices and homes scattered over the hillside near with only stone tools, their hands, and the old town site is a dreadfully tragic fire engineered the construction of such scar on civilization and man's enterprise. imposing dwellings in which to live and Galeyville on Turkey Creek twenty seek protection from enemies and the miles northeast of Tombstone has shared weather is sufficient cause for serious a similar fate. In Charleston and Galey speculation on the part of educated men ville only a few mud heaps and stagger today. To think that these simple na ing mud walls remain among the cactus tives had to make baskets from desert and mesquite thickets as a sad reminder grasses and plants for containers to carry of man's building venture in the desert. the mud and rock on their backs and Tombstone, itself a famous monument scale these dangerous walls to build a of man's hands, built on the bare desert home is almost unbelievable. Today to hillside, was the most glamorous wild build a dam or tall building, the engineer west mining town. Starting from mes (Continued from Page 11) has every machine and tool and piece of quite and cactus and rocks and no water It's the only way I can keep 'em separ equipment at his command to construct in 1879, it had by 1881 an amazing popu ated. The Tewksburys'll be in jail to his job, but the aborigines had to hew lation of over 10,000. Today with its morrow, and the Grahams']] have the run cedar logs for beams and supports with Bird Cage Theater, Crystal Palace Bar, of the streets. Can't let 'em both out at stone axes and fire. For ceilings and Canal and Citrus Groves Boot Hill cemetery, it is an example of walls they used weeds and willows and the same time 'cause they'll get to shoot man's competition with nature that fail adobe and stone. They knew nothing of in' and wreck the town. Damn this feud of time and erosion. The Southwest has ed. With the exception of several hun mathematics or building plans and used in', anyway!" several old communities, old forts, old dred people still living in a quiet village only the eye for a level and very thick The sheriff tips his head back and ranch buildings dating back to only 1850 with its memories and relics, the mines, walls at the base for strength. Their that have been failures, giving up the the whiskey slides down his throat. the shafts, and equipment are being Well blue prints were the trial and error ghost long ago to the desert and the , let's go see the Cabinet before slowly reclaimed by the, desert again. , ,, · 'l'l method of experience. Their "drawing wrc call it a night. elements. There are still rich ores beneath those Roadside Sentinels paper" was granite stone surface upon As we thump down the board walk, One of these relics is old Charleston hills, but nature decreed that man should which they cut their drawings and de we pass Dan Thorne's place. It's a wreck! drink on him. He's the co-partner of between us and the door. We step out that stood on the banks of the San Pedro be defeated, and strange to say this de signs. Some of these structures in Ari But the boys are lined up three and four Burke, and they have the Burke-Hickey from behind Mike as the swinging doors nine miles from historic Tombstone. feat was brought by underground waters zona have stood since 300 to 400 B. C. as deep in front of the bar. We get a H.otel on the corner of Gurley and Mon of the saloon crash against the wall. In Charleston, built in 1880, had several flooding the mines and driving out the a monument to early man's struggles. glimpse of Dan sitting on the end of tezuma-on the end of Whiskey Row. strides Tom Hallahan! hundred people living in adobe brick progress and might of man. Water, the It Tonight Mike seems a trifle on the mor Mike, crouching slightly, the fingers There are a number of structures of homes when it was a boom silver town. scarcity of which makes the surrounding the bar and catch a line of a lusty ose side. He waves his glass before he of his right hand resting lightly on the the white man in this state that have was a tough old wild west settlement. region a vast desert, has become the ballad he's singing. downs it. edge of the bar, speaks, "Here I am, not stood the test of the destructive forces Here Curley Bill, Arizona's most famous master in this mining venture of man. • As we enter the Cabinet, Ed Roberts, who is tending bar, greets us heartily "Boys, I'm lettin' you know; Tom Tom-and ready !" and we order drinks from him. Hallahan's a'gunnin' for me. This may Hallahan pushes his hat back slowly Mike Hickey, usually the most genial bE' my last drink!" with his right hand, and starts stepping of Irishmen, comes in and we have a. We're standing in back of Mike, he's sideways, edging around with each step. Mike turns as slowly, facing Hallahan. His fingers slide off the bar, but the hand doesn't drop. Mike is waiting. Hallahan begins biting off words, "I told you if you messed around that gal of mine I was going to shoot you!" Mike answers evenly, "Well, Tom, I'm still a-waitin'." Hallahan explodes-temper and gun! His first shot misses, and goes into the back-bar mirror. Before he can shoot ag·ain, Mike has shot and missed. Tom Hallahan pauses. Mike has his pistol between his knees, working the adion like mad. He slaps the cylinder! It's jammed ! The white heat of anger leaves Tom. "Aw, let's call it off, Mike. She ain't wo'th it!" "Not if I get this gun workin'," pants the slow-to-anger Mike. Hallahan raises his 44! He turns five shots loose into the ceiling. "Now ! Forget it, Mike." Ed Roberts, taking advantage of the lull, breaks in soothingly-"Belly up, Arizona agricultural scene boys, it's on the house." • 28 Mountain scene in Arizona A.RIZODA. HIGHWAYS OCTOBE:R. 1938 29 F. A. 130-B. Geo. Lang, resident engi ing of a highway on the south side of the ojects Under Construction neer. Cata!ina Mountains, between a point ap Road Pr Tanner Construction Company has con proximately 17 miles northeast of Tuc tra�t . 68%1; complete for the grading, son, Arizona, and Soldier Camp Ranger J. drammg, aggregate base course and oil Station near the summit. The project DISTRICT NO. 1 97-H. (I). M. Kisselburg, resident en processi g ( S. C. 2, road oil road mix) , gineer. has been completed to Vail's Corral a R. Van Horn, District Engineer of �-6 !J1lles of the Ajo-Tucson highway, future recreational area, and a dista�ce Tanner Construction Company has b�gmnmg at the Papago Indian Reserva of 8 miles towards the summit. H. H. contract 65 % complete for the grading, DISTRICT NO. 4 t10n boundary and extending easterly, v,,roodman, Resident Engineer. draining, A. B. C. and (SC-4 road oil William R. Hutchins, District Engineer F. A. 110-E. J. M. Hobbs, resident Federal Lands Highway Project 5 road mix) of approximately 2% miles of Pearson and Dickerson has contract engineer. PROJECTS COMPLETED the Phoenix-Prescott highway, beginning 64% complete for the grading, draining, . State forces have the grading, drain three miles south of the Wickenburg A. B. C. and 90-95 road oil plant mix of mg,, and asphaltic surface treating 26 % Tanner Construction Company, Phoe bridge and extending south, F. A. 59, approximately 13% miles of the Tucson complete on approximately 20 miles of nix, Arizona, on July 30, 1938, completed 3rd Reo. Sch. No. 2. Joe de Arozena, Nogales highway, beginning about 8¾ tJ:ie Tucs?n-Florence highways, begin a contract for grading, draining and resident engineer. miles south of Tucson and extending mng 8 miles north of Oracle Junction placing of a bituminous surface treat and extending north. D. J. Lyons, resi� Tiffany Construction Co., has contract southerly. F. A. 86-A., 3rd Reo. Dan ment on a 5-mile portion of the Tucson Lyons, resident engineer. dent engineer. "Who did that?" 97% complete for grading, draining, A. Tanner Construction Company has con Ajo Highway, within the Papago Indian B. C. and A. S. T. of approximately 4% Martin Contruction Co., has contract ResRouteervation. 28.-Fredonia-Houserock F. A. Bonnell, ResidentValley, tra�t . 1 % complete for the grading, miles of the Ajo-Gila Bend highway, be 99% complete for the grading, draining, drammg, aggregate base course and oil R. M. RUTLEDGE, Assistant Highway J<-:Kaibab:ngineer. National Forest Highway ginning about five miles north of Ajo aggregate base course and oil processing proc ssing (SC 2 road oil, road mix) of Engineer, Office Engineer and extending northerly, F. A. S. 120-B. "Honest, I wasn't spying." ( S. C. 2, road oil, road mix) of 5.5 miles � 2 . m1_les of the Ajo-Tucson highway, be (1). H. Pinney, resident engineer. of the Douglas-Safford highway, be g!nmng at the Tucson-San Xavier Mis BUREAU OF PUBLIC ROADS The Arizona Sand and Rock Company, Warren Southwest, Inc., has contract 2nd Reo., beginning about 3.5 miles PROJECTS IN ARIZONA northeast of Superior and extending ginning about 26 miles north of Douglas s10n road and extending easterly, F. A. Phoenix, Arizona, on July 26, 1938, com 331/2 complete for the grading, draining, S: 110-F (1). J. M. Hobbs, resident en PROJECTS UNDER CONSTRUCTION pleted a contract for placing a bitumin aggregate base course and asphaltic sur northeasterly. R. D. Canfield, resident and extending northerly, F. A. 114-E. Route 3.-Flagstaff-Clints Well, engineer. F. A. Berg, resident engineer. gmeer. Coconino National Forest ous surface treatment on 13 miles of the face treatment of 9.25 miles of the Hop� Phoenix-Tempe Stone Co., has contract Predonia.-Houserock Valley Highway be Parker highway, beginning at the town Arizona Sand and Rock Co., has con Packard Contracting Company, has tract 32% complete for the widening of 1 % complete for the grading, draining, ginning at Jacob Lake, within the Kaibab of Parker and extending southeasterly, contract 72% complete for the grading, a�gregate base course and cutback road F. L. H .. 7-A. Joe de Arozena, resident the existing pavement with Portland ce H. J. Hagen, Globe, Arizona, has the National Forest and extending south to draining, aggregate base course and oil mix of approximately 4.5 miles of the the forest boundary. C. R. Brashears, engineer. ment concrete and placing oil mix in process ( S. C. 2, road oil. road mix) of 6.1 contract for grading and placing • heavy tersections on approximately 3.5 miles Ft. Huachuca-Bisbee highway, beginning crushed base course on Section F of Resident Engineer. Fisher Contracting Co., has contract 1 % miles of the Benson-Steins Pass high at the town of Don Luis and extending complete for grading and draining the of the Mesa-Casa Grande Ruins highway, Arizona_ Forest Highway Route 3, Flag NATIONAL PARK AND MONUMENT beginning at the south citvy limits of way, beginning at the Arizona-New Mex s�uthwesterly, F. A. 133-C (1). Jack staff-Clmts Well. Project begins at the roadway, importing binder material, mix Gilbert, resident engineer. PROJECTS ing binder and local material and oil Chandler and extending southerly. F. A. ico state line and extending westerly, south end of Mormon Lake and extends processing the mixed material with 2.594 miles northerly. Project is about J. A. Casson, Phoenix, Arizona, on UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF 10% complete. F. A. Bonnell, Resident August 1, 1938, completed a contract for MC-4 cutback asphalt on approximately AGRICULTURE Route 7.-0ak Creek National 3 miles of the San Luis-Yuma highway, Engineer.Forest Highway placing a bituminous treated resurfacing beginning at the town of San Luis and BUREAU OF PUBLIC ROADS course on 15 miles of highways on the extending northerly. Non F. A. Oscar south rim of the Grand Canyon National Maupin, resident engineer. G. "f--,. McLANE, Senior Highway En Lewis Brothers, Contractors, Phoenix, Park and adjacent to the Grand Canyon Oswald Bros. Contractors has contract gmeer Arizona, have the contract for construc Village. V. G. Watson, Resident En 1 % complete for the grading, draining, W. R. F. yV_ALLACE, Highway Engineer, tion of a steel arch bridge over Wilson gineer. aggregate base course and oil processing Superv1smg Engineer Canyon, about 27 miles southwest of Skousen Brothers, Albuquerque, New ( SC-4 road oil, road mix) of 1.5 miles R. '.J'HIRIO�, Associate Highway En Flagstaff, Arizona, on the Oak Creek Mexico, on August 13, 1938, completed of the Phoenix-Prescott highway, begin gmeer, H1g-hwav Planning Eng-ineer. Highway. The bridge will consist of a a contract for grading and placing of a ning at the San Domingo Wash bridge J. H. _BRANNAN, Associate Highway main span of 240 feet and approach lig-ht application of oil on 32 miles of the and extending northerly, F. A. 59 ( 4) . Engmeer, Supervising Engineer spans totaling 100 feet. Work was ]'(orth Approach Road to Grand Canyon Joe de Arozena, resident engineer. W. . P. WESCH, Highway Bridge En started March 24, 1938, and is about National Park. Project extends from gmeer, Bridge Engineer 86% complete. A. W. Schimberg, Resi Jacob Lake, Arizona, south to the Grand DISTRICT NO 2 Route 33.-Catalina Mountain Highway, W. J. WARD, Associate Highway En dentCoronado Engineer. National Forest Canyon National Park boundary. C. R. F. N. Grant, District Engineer eer, Locating Engineer Brashears, Resident Engineer. Oswald Brothers have contract 93% complete for subgrading roadway and E. F. STRICKLER, Associate Highway Fisher Contracting Company, Phoe refinishing slopes, and replacing aggre Engineer, Supervising Engineer Project consists of grading and drain- nix, Arizona, on August 20, 1938, com gate base course and 90-95 road oil pleted a contract for placing a bitumin plant mix, and one-half miles of asphalt ous treatment on 5 miles of highway surface treatment, beginning at CameronF. A. along the Rim of the Painted Desert and extending northerly about 25.6 miles within Petrified Forest National Monu on the Flagstaff-Fredonia highway, ment. V. G. Watson, Resident Engineer. 95-B and F. L. 4-C. J. B. Johnson BIDS OPENED resident engineer. Bids were opened on July 28, 1938, for Heuser and Garnet have contract 95% grading and placing base course surfac complete for grading, draining, aggre ing with bituminous treatment on Sec gate base course and asphaltic surface tions C and D of Arizona Forest Highway treatment, beginning at Holbrook and Route 28, Fredonia-House Rock Valley. extending southerly about 11.75 miles on Length of project 6.137 miles. the Showlow-Holbrook highway, F. A. Bids were opened on July 28, 1938, 131-A. H. B. Wright, resident_ engineer. for grading and placing base course sur facing with bituminous treatment on Sec DISTRICT NO. 3 tions C and portion of Section F on Na R. C. Perkins, District Engineer tional Park Project Jacob Lake-North Geo. W. Orr and J. G. North have Rim Approach to Grand Canyon National contract 91 % complete for sub grading Parle Length of project 1.278 miles. roadway and refinishing slopes, placing Bids were opened on August 2, 1938, aggregate base course and asphaltic sur for grading a portion of Section B of fa_ce treatment on approximately 15.5 Arizona_ Forest Highway Route 19, Clif miles of the Globe-Springerville high ton-Alpme. Length of project 6.115 way, F. A. 99-H. I. J. 1st Reo. which be miles. gins about 50 miles northeast of Globe and extends northeasterly. C. B. Brown Bids were opened on September 8, ing, r(\sident engineer. 1938, for grading, draining, and placing Lee Moor Contracting Company has borrow backfill on a portion of Section �ontract 92% complete for grading, drain B of Arizona Forest Highway Route 17, mg, aggregate base course and cutback Snowflake-Pinetop. Length of . project road mix of approximately 1.6 miles of Choice Arizona lamb ready for market 3.175 miles. o the Superior-Miami highway, F. A. 16, Hopi girls all dressed up OCTOB€R. 1938 31 30 ARIZODA HIGHWAYS ■ ■ �'-3 Build for the Future ■
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C .... ERECT STRONG, HAND C _ ;, '-3 SOME, LASTING BRIDGES �C S- C ..,3. � ._"' OF ;:! "' �<.-::, ...., .., i;:, �:;:! Cl)� � ? ;! Immune to Fire and Frost, � "i O� � "' �- c0- Cracks and Breaks, Worms and ;i,.. ;! ;:! "' c:,-,"' � ;! i;:, Termites, they are good for "' C � � -, "' .. . ;j ;! .., yond 30 days sooner than � R. � 0--A �- �('C) would have been possible with ~ "' ;:! C ;:,;- () 01 PHOENIX, ARIZONA P. L. & R. Sec. 562 U. S. POSTAGE Paid HOENIX, ARIZONA Happiness Ahead l Permit No. 22 ROAD THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS. TOM IMLER, JR. G) 1500 South Central Avenue P. 0. Box 1585 :E r r)>