VOL. XXXfII NO. 2 FEBRUARY 1957 RAYMOND CARLSON, F.ditor GEORGE M. AVF.Y, Art Fclitor JA1VIES E. STEVENS, Business Manager U ·'. GEND "Su,vrMF.11 DAY-iVloNTr.zu,\ rA vV1<:1.1. " CARLOS ELME I( SHOW S us A sc1 -: ,rc AREA DRESSED IN SUMMER'S BEST. I-lr:/\lff OF THE SouTJ-1\VFST 4 A NOTED SC I IOL AR DISC USSES HOOKS One of our good friends and contributors-Carlos WHICH VIVIDLY SHOW WESTER N LIF E. Elmer-is much in evidence this issue, both in word and Rx FOR CoNTFNT,\ 1 FNT . A DISCUSSION OF Pl I0TOGR Al' HY 1\S picture. He discusses with us his favorite hobby-photog­ iVIOST SATISFYING OF ALL HOBBIES. raphy-a hobby which he takes quite seriously and has PFTE K1TCHEN RANCH AND 1Vlus1-:u.\1 LIFE OF PIONEER IJA YS DISPLAYED truly mastered, as we think you will agree when you see IN HOME OF NOTED PIONEER FIGURE. the photographs of his which embellish these February TuuAc-LlTTLE TowN ,\TIII l3,c 1----11sTOR Y HERE ONE SEES A LANDMARK " ' l·IICH pages. DREAiVIS Ol' DAYS OF GREATER GLORY. ERNEST vV. McFARLAND Carlos is not a professional photographer but that does Gover11or of' Arizona not detract from his skill or his passion for the art. His ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION theme is a simple one-photography is fun. He recom­ Frank E. Moore, Chairman . Douglas Grover J. Duff, Vice Chainnan ...... Tucson mends the camera as an antidote for the malady of our vVm. P. Copple, Mclllbcr . . . . . Yuma times, a malady which is with us all more or Jess-jumping J ames R. Heron, Member . . . . . Globe Frank L. Christensen, Member . . Flagstaff nerves, the product of our bustling and hurried age. He Wm. E. Willey, State Hwy. Engineer Phoenix discourses at length on equipment and technique and then I usrin 1--1 crrnan, Secretarv . . . . Phoenix Ronald M. Bond, Spedal Counsel . Phoenix he takes us on two delightful tours- one through an Ari­ zona spring and the other through an Arizona autumn. ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is published monthly by the Arizona Highway Department a few miles norrh of the conAuencc of the Gila and He's a good guide and counsellor. We hope you enjoy his Salt in A ri7.ona. Address: ARrzoNA HrGr-nvA YS, Phoenix, Arizona. $3.50 per year in U.S. and possessions; $4.50 elsewhere; 35 cents visit with us in this issue. each. Entered as second-chiss m,itter Nov. 5, 1941 at Post Office in Phoenix, under Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted, 1957, by That distinguished scholar, Lawrence Clark Powell, Arizona Highway Deparrment. is with us again this month, this time with an important Allow five weeks for change of add rcsscs. Be sure to send m and interesting discussion of those novels and stories the old as well as the new address. which he thinks are noteworthy in portraying the life and FRONT COVER "SUMMER DAY- MONTEZUMA WFLI." by Carlos Elmer. times of the Southwest. His "Heart of the Southwest" Green trees, blue water, and puffy cumulus clouds all add up to originally appeared as a book printed in a limited edition a lazy sur11111cr cla y at this curious lilllestone sink in northcentral Arizona. Just 20 miles south of Sedona, Montczullla \i\Tell pro­ at the Plantin Press of Los Angeles for Dawson's Book vides a pleasant side trip to many of the thousands of persons who visit Oak Creek Canyon each year. 90 mm. Schneider Angulon Shop. vVe are grateful to Dawson's for graciously giving wide-angle lens, f. 1 8, 1 . 1 orh second. 4 x 5 inch Burke & James Press ns permission to offer you this valuable document. Here Camera, Ektachrome film. is a learned guide to the fiction of our area. Many of the OPPOSITE PAGE "AFTER Tl-IE STORM- DESERT NEAR KINGMAN" by books noted by Dr. Powell are out of print. Others are to Carlos Elmer. While strolling along the boulevards of Paris last be found only in libraries. A few are available in pocket fall l sniffed many a rnre and expensive f

BOOKS IN THE SUN: One of our favorite poets here in Arizona is Patricia Benton. Her name adorns, from time to time, our little column devoted to the most wonderful people of all-our poets. Wouldn't it be a stupid world, indeed, if there wasn't someone, someplace, writing poetry. We say to hell with it-let the scientists build bigger and better atomic bombs. We are not worried about our civilization as long as there is someone who will try to rhyme "love" with "orange." l\lliss Benton's new book is "Cradle of the Sun," published by Frederick Fell, Inc., 386 4th Ave., New York 16, N. Y. We recommend it. It's lovely: Sample: Earth Music Gold of earth and gold of trees Flaunting golden harmonies: All this treasure gathered up Held within a burnished cup Where the heaven's light and thunder Fills the brimming heart with wonder And the lithe, unfettered stream Fringes fields of golden dream. We are happy, too, to call to your attention "Adventures in Arizona" by Thomas B. Lesure, who also has appeared in these pages. The book is published by The Naylor Company, 918 N. St. Marys St., San Antonio, Texas. The book could be considered a fine travel guide to places in Arizona which most interest the author. Photographs. Charley C. Niehuis, also no stranger to these pages, has now given us "Trapping the Silver Beaver." The book is published by Dodd, Mead & Co., 432 4th Ave., New York, N. Y. "Trapping the Silver Beaver" is a story of a homeless boy finding his own soul and his own place in the world through the kind and thoughtful guidance of a game ranger. The book reveals two things: the author knows people and knows nature. "Western Wonderlands" by John L. Blackford, Vantage Press, Inc., 120 W. 31 St., New York 1, N. Y. is a book you will enjoy if you are interested in the great out-of-doors, and who isn't? iVlr. Blackford, who also is no stranger to these pages, knows birds, loves birds, and in this book he takes us on a bird tour of the western states. Liberally illustrated with fine photographs.

OPPOSITE PAGE "Big Horns of the Kof as" by Haward L. Fink

COLOR CLASSICS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS This Issue 35 mm. slides in 2" mounts, 1 to 15 slides, 40¢ each; 16 to 49 slides, 35¢ each; 50 or more, 3 for $1.00. lV1'V-2 Summer Day- Montezuma Well, cover r; V-19 After the Storm- Desert near Kingman, cover 2; V-20 Green Fields of Spring Along the Big Sandy, cover 3; MO-4 Jet Trail above Fortification Hill. cover 4; L-36 A Glimpse of Lake Mead, p. 1r OC-25 View from Schnebly Hill, p. r8; GC-45 From Toroweap Point- Grand Canyon, p. r8; V-21 Mogollon Rim Sunset, p. 19; DS-43 A Still World-Joshua \Vinter, center spread; V-22 The Winding River- View Down the Tonto, p. 22; DS-44 Autumn Color Along the Big Sandy, p. 22; V-23 Lights and Shadows Across the Altar Valley, p. 2 3; DS-46 Cholla and Bristling Peaks Near Superior, p. 23; V-24 Summer's Color-Northern Ariz., p. 24-

PAGE THREE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 ~ ~/~·---~ . ' ;'' __ , ,,-"" ' :_,:"''. .

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NEA TO E SOUTHIIWEST A SELECTIVE READING LIST OF GOOD NOVELS AND STORIES MOSTLY WITH SETTINGS IN ARIZONA AND NEW MEXICO ~cc~~ ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROSS SANTEE This bibliography follows one I compiled of novels the most characteristically Southwestern-Tucson, Phoe­ about Southern California called Land of Fiction. This nix, or Flagstaff, Roswell, Albuquerque, or Santa Fe. He does not mean that I regarded that region as not a part \1 ·ho flies over the Southwest is certain that no matter EDITOR'S N OTE of the Soutl1vvest. It also depends upon irrigation for its where the historian or geographer says it is or is not, one In "Who's Who in America" Lawrence fertility, and upon power from the Colorado River to can surely tell the Southwest when he sees it from aloft. Clark Powell gives his occupation as "li­ support its industries; and yet two things distinguish it Coloration is one thing-whether it be the dove­ brarian a~id writer," and since he took bis from w hat I call the Heart of the Southwest-Arizona colored desert at Tucson and El Paso, the dark cedar­ 'doctorate in literature t'"Ll)enty -five years ago and New Mexico-namely the City and the Ocean. The covered mesas up in Coconino County, or the incarna­ in France, he has pursued a varied career as vitality which animates fiction about Southern California dined Monument Valley. Configuration is another-the bookseller, publisher, editor, and lecturer, is gen.crated by the city swarm of Los Angeles, and the deep-carved canyons of the Colorado and the Pecos, and in addition to serving since 1944 as Librarian. weather which makes the region magnetic to millions is the sharp upthrusts of earth from Baboquivari and the of the University of California at Los Paci fie-born. San Francisco Peaks to Mount Taylor and Shiprock, are Angeles and writing nu111erous books. T hese With few exceptions the books in this new bibliog­ like no others. The predominance of the arroyo seco is works include Robinson Jeffers, the 1vlan raphy of novels, stories, and tales are laid in the lands characteristic of the Southwest, and even its two greatest and His Work, Philosopher Pickett, Islands east of the Colorado, south of the Mesa Verde, west of watercourses, the Rios Grande and Colorado, are small of Books, The Alchemy of Books, Land of the Pecos, and north of the Border. I was fully aware flow-ers alongside the Missouri, the Mississippi, the Ohio, Fiction, Heart of the Southw est, and Books of the risks in thus delimiting the Southwest, and sought and the Hudson. Sky determines, Ross Calvin said in his West Southwest to be published this spring. to disarm critics by calling my work "Heart of the South­ great book on New Mexico's heavenly weather, and the Dr. Powell's books and innumerable articles west," and subtitling it " .. . laid mostly in Arizona and cloud-capped skies of the heartland, of a blue to end in 111agazines, as well as a nwnthly book page New Mexico and adjacent lands." Those last two words blues, are pure Southwest. in Wescways inagazine, have established are deliberate appeasers of Texans, Utahans, Nevadans, In using the word selective in my title, I have at­ him as one of the Soutln.vest's foremost Chihuahuans, and Sonorans, as well as of Baja and South­ tempted to choose from many a score more than a litertrry spokesn-zen. H e is billed to speak ern Californians, all of whom have marginal if not central hundred of what my own taste and judgment tell me are to the Phoenix Executives Club in 1\llarch. claim to be called Southwesterners. the best books of fiction. Other choices will be made by Only a madman or a fool would exclude any part of other persons. I have eschewed the Germanic tradition in Arizona or New Mexico from the Southwest, though hot bibliography: to be exhaustive, exhausting, exhausted. As may rage the internecine quarrels as to which parts are Arizona and New iVIexico are the geographical heart of

PAG E FOUR • A RIZONA HIGHvVAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 polo player and translator from t he R omance languages, A llen is country light up this talk-heavy novel about modern characters one of the most sensitive and nostalgic of all the evokers of the who fail to come alive. Southwest. A DOLPH F. BANDELIER ( 1840-191 4) CLEV ELAND AMORY ( 1917- ) T H E DELIGHT MAKERS. N ew York, D odd, M ead & Co. HOME TOWN. New York, H arper & Brothers. (1950] 310 pp. [ 1890] 490 pp. also with an introduction by Charles F. Lummis [and A funny and pointed satire on New York publishing techn iques. a foreword by Frederick W . H odge]. Same publisher, zct ed. [1916] Hathaway H ouse promotes a first novel by a young reporter in 49° PP· Copper City, Arizona- a transparent disguise for the smelter town T his first of a long line of Southwest I ndian documentary novels of Jerome. has never been surpassed in its faithfulness to the facts of P ueblo FRANK G . APPLE GATE ( 1882-1 931 ) Indian culture and the N ew Mexican landscape of the R ico de los IN DIAN STORI.E.S FROM T H E PUEBLOS; foreword by Frijolcs, the region northwest of Santa Fe now the Bandelier W itter Bynner; illustrations from original Pueblo Indian paintings. N ational Monument. T he c ontributions to the second edition by P hiladelphia & London, J. B. Lippincott Co. [1929] 178 pp. H odge and Lummis are tributes to the pioneer work of him who "N ot only is he a familiar in the T ewa villages around h is home remains one of t he greatest of Southwestern archaeologists and s and so are these books to me the literary heart more and it may prove impossible, so indifferent are town, Santa Fe, but months a t a t ime he has lived in H opi villages, ethnologists. It is ill ustrated from p hotographs by Lummi the Southwest, F. C. I--lieks. New editions of T be Delight 1\llakers are still being ( and most libraries) toward preserving modern lived the H opi life, felt H opi feelings, studied and revived Hopi of the great body of writing about the region. From the people art among the native pottery-makers, painted H opi persons and issued by the publisher from the original plates. time of Captain Mayne Reid a century ago, through the novels. ceremonies, and listened meantime to such stories as he has caught WILL C. BARN ES (1 858-1936) Beadle Dime Novels of the 1 89o's, to the modern spate My chief aim is to lead others to the joys of reading for us in this volume. H e has caught them as patiently, as gently, T ALES FROM T HE X-BAR H ORSI~ CA MP; THE BLUE of paper back westerns, there has always been an un­ which these books have held for me. But as the cookbook as surely, as I have seen an Ind ian pick up in gifted hands a Jive ROAN "OUTLAW" AND OTHER ST ORIES. Chicago, T he stemmed flood of popular books about the West and the says, one must catch his goose before he cooks it; and like­ w ood-pecker from a tree-tr unk or ,1 live trout from :i stream." Breeders' G azette. [ 1920] 217 pp. Southwest. Worth study is the world-wide influence wise a book must be in hand before it can be read. To W itter Bynner. G ood stories of ranchi ng, mining, archaeology, Indians and bandits in Ar izona, by the author of the standard Ari:::..onct Place N ctmes. books have had, not only in forming people's ideas those who would read their way through the Heart of N AT IVE TALES O F NC-\V i\ !LX!CO; introduction by Mary these ; with illustrations in color by the author. P hiladelphia & Eighteen photographic i.llustrations add to the book's authenticity. Southwest, I say visit or write your local library or Austin of the West, but also in actually bringing immigrants to the London. J. B. Li ppincott Co. [ 1932 ] 263 pp. R OBE.RT AMES BEN N ET (1870- ) the country. Mostly unimportant as separates, they are bookshop. If the former does not have all of the books, "T he salient charncteristic of all of them is t h:it they could not BLOOM OF CACTUS; with a frontispiece by Ralph Fallen Cole­ meaningful in the mass and deserving of study by some­ they may be borrowed from larger libraries within the have happened a nywhere else, whic h is the un assaibble hallmark man. G arden City, Doubleday, Page & Co. [ 1920·1 248 pp. one whose literary taste is less fastidious than mine. state or region. Many of the books are out of print and of regionalism in literature." i\ lary Austin . i\ Jelodramatic melange of lost mines, G ila monsters, rattlesnakes, The chief criterion for my choices has been fidelity cannot be found in bookshops featuring new books only. L AUR A A DAi\!S AR;\l ER ( 1874- ) and Apaches in recognizable southern Arizona setting. to the characteristics of this region: coloration and con­ Hunting for them in second-hand bookshops can be great W ATERLESS i\'IO UNT AiN; illustrated by Sydney A rmer and ROBERT BRIGHT (1902- ) gmans, Green & Co. [193 1] T HE LIFE AND DEATH OF LIT T LE JO; decorations by the landscape and weather, the people and their sport and a comparatively inexpensive one. Most of to­ Laura Adams Ar mer. N ew York, Lon figuration, 212 pp. author. Gar den C ity, D oubleday, D oran & Co. I 1944] 216 pp. lore. A wide range of fictional skill is found in these day 's avid collectors of Western Americana ignore the Although w ritten originally for young people this novel of a T he time is today, the setting a village of northern N ew Mexico, authors, but all of them from Andy Adams to Harold fiction of the region, and as a result, the prices of the N avajo boy w ho is c alled to be a medicine man will hold readers the people the i\ lexican-Americans, the story a simple one of family Bell Wright, have in common a passionate adoration of older volumes of novels and stories remain within the of all ages for its insight and power. A foreword by Oliver La and communal relationships, pitched in low and humorous key. the Southwest. Although I am an inhabitant of an adja­ limits of everyman's purse. Many of the t itles have been Farge is a tribute to Mrs. Armer, which concludes, "Many readers T he author's line drawings add to the book'.s charm. cent land, I have been in and out and around the region reprinted in paper back books. will question the high religious ideas, the constant talk of beauty, W . R. BURNET T (1 899- ) ever since birth, and I r egard myself first as a Southwest­ I repeat, however, that to acquire a complete set of t he mysticism, that she ascribes to Younger Brother and his pr iestly ADOBE W ALLS: A NOVEL OF THF LAST A PACHE UP­ ork, A. A. Knopf. [1953 ] 279 pp. these volumes, in first editions, is a hard thing to do. I do U n~le; one ca~~ only say that, contrary to the general idea , many RISING. N ew Y erner, and secondly as a Californian. Indians are s o. An old story expertly retold. I have said before and I say again, a good w ork of not have them all, nor does the university library which DARK CIRCLE OF BRANCHES; i llustrated by Sydney Armer. DAVID BURNH A M ( 1907- ) fiction is a better guide to a region than a bad work of I head. The most complete collections of Southw est fi c­ N ew York, Longmans, Green & Co. [193 3] 21 2 pp. WINTER IN T H E SUN. N ew York, Charles Scribner's Sons. fa ct, and these diverse volumes constitute a veritable en­ tion, aside from the Library of Congress w hich receives Following the success of vVaterless 1l1ountain, Mrs. Armer wrote l 1937 ] 3oo PP· cyclopedia of the Southwest, its history, geography, and copyright examples, are to be found at the University of this moving story of the "Long , Valk" in 1862, w hen the N avajos The setting is a guest ranch on the border south of T ucson, and culture, Indian, Spanish, and Anglo. Arizona Library a nd the Carnegie Free Library in Tuc­ were herded m to the Canyon de Chelly by K it Carson, then trans­ the author manages to convey the superficialit~r of the "foreigners" Need I say that I h ave not only handled every book son, in the State Library and Public Library at Phoenix, ported into four years of exile before they were assigned to thei r in search of health and amusement. Q uail-hunting, horse-racing, present reser rnt ion in northern Arizona and N ew Mexico. picnicking to the landm,irk peak Baboquivari, the condition of on my list, but have read them as well from cover to the Arizona State College Library at Tempe, the U niver­ ELLIOT T ARNOLD ( 191 2- ) desert roads after rain, and cloud formations over the Papago cover, some for the first time, others such as Zane Grey's sity of New Mexico Library and the Public Library in BLOOD BROTHER . N ew York, Dueli, S loan a nd Pearce. I 1947 J country- these hold the interest more t han t he characters' banal after a lapse of years and with nostalgia for the fa raway Albuquerque, and in Los Angeles at the Southwest Muse­ 558 pp. talk. · thrill of first discovering the W est in books. um, the Public Library, the County Library, and the Based on the friendship between the C hiricahua Apache Cochise WALTER N OBLE BURNS (1 87 2-1932 ) In listing them I have not gone into any great biblio­ UCLA Library. All of these institutions have lending and the Amer ican scout Tom Jeffords, and how t hat blood bond T HE SAGA OF BILLY T HE KID. G arden City, D oubleday, graphical detail, giving only e nough facts of imprint and copies of many of the books, but sometimes w hen they brought a lasting peace to Arizona T erritory. The book's gallery Page & Co. [ 1926] 322 pp. southwestern bad men, pagination to ensure identification. Annotations are liter­ possess only a single copy of a title, they make it non­ of r eal characters is marred somewhat by the introduction of an N ovelized account of the most notorious of imaginary love story between Jeffords a nd an Apache g irl. O verlv the murderous little cowboy-gone-bad named W illiam H . Bonney, ary rather than bibliographical, and attempt succinctly circulating, in order that it be kept from wearing out. long for some tastes, but the real background of history and land­ born at N ew York in 1859 and died by Sheriff Pat Garrett's bullet to appraise each work's merit, to indicate its locale, and And so m y fi nal wish to all Southwesterners, wher­ scape and its subtle emphasis on the power of friendship to change at Fort Sum ner, N ew Mexico in 188 1. to relate it to its contemporaries and predecessors. To col­ ever this finds them, is for good hunting and good reading the w orld, make this a distinguished novel of the region. TOMBST ONE: AN ILIAD O F TI-IE SO UTHWEST ; ill ustra­ lect a complete set today w ould not be easy; a few years through the Heart of the Southwest. T H E T IME OF T H E G RINGO. N ew York, A. A. K nopf. [ 1953 ] tions by Will James. G arden City, D oubleday, Page & Co. [ 1927] 6 13 PP· 388 PP· . T his novel of the efforts o f Manuel Armijo, last of the Mexican T he A rizona silver boom-town, and its famous six-shooter s heriff governors, to hold off the ineYitablc Anglo tide is, like Blood W yatt Earp, a re the subjects of this novelized frontier h istory, Brot/Jer, the product of a v igorous mind immersed in the social based freely on Arizona newspapers of t he 188o's. and political t ides of its t ime. Laid for the most part around Santa W ILLA CAT HER (1875-1947) Fe and the Rio A rriba, the book abounds in I-lollywoodian situa­ DEAT H COMES FOR THE ARCHBISH OP. N ew York, A. A. tions, but for all that, illustrates the ancient dictum that all tyrants Knopf. [ 1927] 303 PP· ANDY ADAMS (1859-1935) the c lassic of the occupation. It is a simple, straightaway narrative carry within them the elements of their own destruction. T he statue of Archbishop Lamy in front of the cathedral in Santa T H E LOG OF A COWBOY; A NARRATIVE OF THE OLD that takes a trail herd from the Rio Grande to the Canadian line, MARY AUSTIN (1868-1934) Fe inspired this classic evocation of the r eligious spirit which sought TRAIL D AYS; illustrated b y E. Boyd Smith. Boston & New York, the hands talking as naturally as cows c hew cuds, every page ON E-SMOKE ST ORIES. Boston & N ew York, Houghton Mifflin to civilize the primiti,·e Southwest. lt is distinguished by economy Houghton Mifflin & Co. [ 1903 l 387 pp. illuminated b y a n easy intimacy with life ." J. Frank D obie. 1 2 of language and understatement of emotion- intentions which the "If all other books on trail driving were destroyed, a reader could JOHN HOU G H T ON ALLEN (1909- ) Co. [ 934] 95 PP· and N cw Mexico folk-tales, none longer than the t ime it author explained in an essay in Tbe Co'lllmon-weal. still get a just and authentic c onception of trail men, trail work, SOUTHWEST; illustrated by Paul Laune. Philadelphia, J. B. A rizona range c attle, cow horses, and the c ow country in general from Lippincott Co. [ 195 2] 220 pp. t akes to smoke a ceremonial corn-husk cigarette. W ILL LE VlNGTON COMFORT (1878-1932 ) The Log of a Cowboy. It is a n ovel without a plot, a woman, Romantic stories of the T exas-Chihuahua b order country, per­ STARRY ADVENTU RE. Boston & N ew York, H oughton Mifflin APACHE. N ew York, E. P. Dutton & Co. [1931] 274 pp. character development, or sustained dramatic incidents; yet it is meated with the acrid flavor of flowers, sweat, and frijoles. Poet, C o. [ 193 I] 421 pp. Mangus Colorado, the great Mimbreii.o chieftain, is the h ero of Flashes of poetic description of her beloved upper R io G rande this lean and sinewy book, the climax to Comfort's prolific writ-

P AG E S I X • ARI Z O NA HIGHWAYS • F E BRU A R Y 195 7 ing career. "It remains for me," said J. Frank Dobie, "the most BLOOD OF THE CONQUERORS. New York, A. A. Knopf. This purports to be an account of one year in the life of Sefior TO THE LAST MAN, A NOVEL. Illustrated by Frank Sprad­ moving and incisive piece of writing on Indians of the Southwest [ 1936] 756 pp. Don Juan Obrigon (1798-1902) known from his red hair (he was ling. New York, Harper & Brothers. [ 1922] 310 pp. that I have found." In an introduction written especially for this volume, Fergusson half Trish, his surname a corruption of O'Brien) as Juan Colorado This sentimental romance is added to the "Big Four" because of DANE COOLIDGE (1873-1940) tells of his birth in Albuquerque, his boyhood and youth as a and to the Indians as the Flame, Englished by Walter de Steiguer its subject-the famous Graham-Tewksbury feud between Arizqna SILVER HAT. New York, E. P. Dutton & Co. [1934] 255 PP· hunter and trapper, and then of his romantic impulse to recreate from Fierro Bianco's original Spanish. Actually written in English cattlemen and sheepmen. As usual Grey's passion for setting-the The inevitable satire on Indian Westerns, Medicine Men, Snake the past of his pioneer forebears. "Although they were not con­ by Walter Nordhoff (1858-1937), it is replete with lore of the land Tonto Basin-far exceeded his ability to lend his characters the Dances, Descents of the Colorado and the rest of frontier lore and ceived or written as a trilogy, the three novels belong together, and and has vitality. dimensions of real life. His foreword to this novel gives Grey's love, featuring Lady Grace Benedict, known as Slender Woman, I believe they have more interest and significance taken together In 1955 a second edition was issued under the author's true name, formula for western fiction: real setting, much violence, plus Milton Buckmaster, an old Scout who passes as the Navajo called than any of them has alone. They all deal with the same region with a preface about Nordhoff by Scott O'Dell. romantic love interest. Silver Hat, and the villain of the piece, a young Hopi chieftain and spring from the same impulse. Taken together, they tell the O'KANE FOSTER ( 1898- ) ERNEST HAYCOX (1899-1950) named Harold Chasing Butterflies, who went away to the white story of a great migration from the time when lone hunters in­ IN THE NIGHT DID I SING. New York, Charles Scribner's BORDER TRUMPET. Boston, Little, Brown & Co. [ 1939] 306 pp. man's school and came back with hatred in his heart. vaded a wilderness until the frontier had been pushed into the Sons. [1942] 323 pp. Haycox was perhaps the master of the many-writered school of EDWIN CORLE (1906-1956) ocean and the westward flow of human energy had come nearly A loving and lyrical pastoral novel of the Mexican American Taos historical westerns, being an accurate researcher, creator of living MOJAVE; A BOOK OF STORIES. New York, Liveright Pub­ to a stop. They also cover a hundred years in the history of the Valley village called Sangre de Cristo, full of a deep brooding characters, and a good story-teller. This novel of the Apache war lishing Corp. [ 1934] 272 pp. racial and cultural border where the Spanish-America of the South sympathy for the brown people and a distaste for the restless road­ is notable for its picture of U. S. Army life on the Arizona fron­ Good stories gleaned by the author in that "mystic mid country" meets the Northern Anglo-America in a contact that is still a vital building Anglos, typified by a crew of Texas surveyors. tier. between the San Bernardinos and the Rio Colorado. thing." CLAUD GARNER (1891- ) VIRGINIA DAVIS HERSCH (1896- FIG TREE JOHN. New York, Liveright Publishing Corp. [1935] WOLF SONG. New York, A. A. Knopf. [1927] 206 pp. 'WETBACK, A NOVEL. New York, Coward-McCann. (1947 ] THE SEVEN CITIES OF GOLD. New York, Duell, Sloan & 3i8 PP· "I had occasion last night to look for something in Harvey Fer­ 116 pp. Pearce. [ 1946] 243 pp. Corle has never surpassed the achievement of this first of his novels, gusson's ·w otf Song, which I rate above Guthrie's The Big Sky, An earnest novel of the Texas-Mexico border along the Rio A rousing romance told in glittering style of the Coronado ex­ which has a legendary Apache character, in a Salton Sea locale, as a novel on the mountain men. It is easily among the best half Grande, full of sympathy for the illegal Mexican farm laborers pedition of 1540 to find the Golden Cities of Cibola-the Zufii broken and embittered by the encroaching whites. The book's dozen novels on the West, in my estimation. Willa Cather, Con­ who give the book its title. The hero is a Tarascan Indian peon who pueblos of New Mexico-with an invented love story wedded genesis is told in a foreword by L. C. Powell to a new edition pub­ rad Richter, nor anyone else has equalled Fergusson in the swiftness, triumphs in his determination to become a legal U.S. citizen. Real­ warmly to the historical background. lished in 1955 by the Ward Ritchie Press in Los Angeles. economy, and prose rhythm of Chapter One in W off Song." istic in the beginning and absurdly pollyanna-ish in the end. PAUL HORGAN (1903- ) PEOPLE ON THE EARTH. New York, Random House. [1937] J. Frank Dobie. FRANCES GILLJ\1OR (1903- ) FAR FROM CiBOLA. New York, Harper & Brothers. (1938] 401 pp. IN THOSE DAYS: AN IMPRESSION OF CHANGE. New FRUIT OUT OF ROCK. New York, Duell, Sloan & Pearce. 163 PP· A powerful novel of the tragic waste of trying to Americanize the York, A. A. Knopf. [ 1929] 267 pp. I 1940] 269 pp. Vignettes of ranching folk in central New Mexico during the Navajo, which ranks with Fig Tree John as Corie's major achieve­ Of this novel of the economic development of the Rio Grande The setting is the cultivated canyon of the Aravaipa east of Tucson Depression. ment and with La Farge's work as the best of the novels about the Valley in New Mexico, based in part on the career of his grand­ where peach growers are threatened by overgrazing goats upstream. THE HABIT OF EMPIRE. Santa Fe, New Mexico, The Rydal Navajo. father, Fergusson wrote, "By the time I came to write [it] my The love story is along the same lines of conflict. Miss Gillmor's Press. [ 1938] 114 PP· BURRO ALLEY. New York, Random House. [1938] 279 pp. mood and intention had changed. I was still enamored of a swift style is austere and biblical. A narrative of the conquest of New Mexico by Juan de Ofiate in A picture of Santa Fe as a tourist town, the action centering in and rhythmical style. I wanted intensity rather than bulk. I aspired \VINDSINGER. New York, Minton, Balch and Co. [1930] 218 pp. 1604, of his death at Acoma and the subsequent destruction of the the pleasure establishments of the street which gives the book its to a sort of narrative poetry. But it was no longer the heroism of The author, who teaches literature and folklore at the University Pueblo. Illustrated from lithographs by the new Mexican artist, title. Corie's later novelette In Winter Light ( 1949) treats similarly adventure that engrossed me. I wanted now to show the long curve of Arizona, is a lifelong student of Navajo ceremonials. The hero Peter Hurd of San Patricio. There is a photo-offset reprint, New of the whites attracted to a Navajo trading post. of a human destiny through fifty years of spectacular and unprec­ of her story is a leader of healing chants who rises and falls in the York, Harper & Brothers [1939]. KYLE CRICHTON ( 1896- ) edented change ... Time and Change are the mighty characters People's favor, and whose sheepherding wife loves him as a man NO QUARTER GIVEN. New York, Harper & Brothers. [1935] THE PROUD PEOPLE, A NOVEL. New York, Charles Scrib­ in this story." .. even when she no. longer believes in him as a prophet. 586 PP· ner's Sons. [ 1944] 368 pp. THE BLOOD OF THE CONQUERORS. New York, A. A. ZANE GREY (1872-1939) A composer-pianist from the Southwest is the hero of this ample An unusual novel of social manners, laid in Albuquerque and en­ Knopf. [ 1921] 265 pp. THE HERITAGE OF THE DESERT; A NOVEL. New York, novel, the setting of which. alternating between New Mexico and virons in 1941, told mainly in conversation, of the problems of the "Tbe Blood of the Conquerors was written first, but it belongs Harper & Brothers. [ 1910] 297 pp. New York, contains such varieties as a recognizable portrait of old and young Mexican-Americans in the university and profes­ last, not only in chronological sequence but in the progression of Up in Coconino County the lands north of the Grand Canyon Toscanini and a good description of an Indian ceremonial dance sional upper crust. The author, who also wrote left-wing criticism the mood. For I was writing, in this book, not of times I had read are known as the Arizona Strip. Bordering on Utah this beautiful at the pueblo of Santo Domingo. under the pseudonym Robert Forsythe, sketches the setting with a about and dreamed about, but of times I had lived. The town of cedar-wooded Mormon country is the setting of this first of Zane THE RETURN OF THE WEED; lithographs by Peter Hurd. light, sure touch. the story is the Albuquerque of the early nineteen hundreds in Grey's "Big Four," the novels on which he built world-wide fame New York, Harper & Brothers. (1936] 97 pp. J. FRANK DOBIE (1888- which I was a boy. It is the typical Southwestern town of the end and fortune. Admittedly the plot is sensational, the characters Seven deserted buildings mostly in southern New Mexico, from APACHE GOLD AND YAQUI SILVER; illustrated by Tom of the frontier period, when all the booms were over and all the stereotypes, and the Grey morals either black or white, yet he a Mission of the 168o's to a modern filling station, stimulate the Lea. Boston, Little, Brown & Co. [ 1939] 366 pp. battles fought, where the free wealth of the wilderness all had been wrote a story people liked to read, and his feeling for this part of author to imagine what led to their abandonment. The stories are Mostly a narrative of characters and experiences met during trips squandered or hoarded and men had to learn the difficult and cun­ the Southwest was deep and true. · simple and excellent. through the mountains of New Mexico, trailing down the story ning technique of taking things away from each other without RIDERS OF THE PURPLE SAGE, A NOVEL. Illustrated by THE SAINTMAKER'S CHRISTMAS EVE. New York, Farrar, of Lost Adams Diggings, illuminated by the alchemical magic of the aid of firearms." Douglas Duer. New York, Harper & Brothers. [1912] 334 pp. Straus and Cudahy. (1955] 112 pp. Dobie's feeling for places and people of the Southwest. GRANT OF KINGDOM, A NOVEL. New York, William Mor­ Southern Utah is the setting of this probably most popular and A moving story of santos in northern New Mexico a century ago, CORONADO'S CHILDREN; TALES OF LOST MINES AND row. (1950] 311 pp. best loved of all westerns, and the Mormons are the villains. The told with loving insight and clarity, and illustrated from drawings BURIED TREASURES OF THE SOUTHWEST; illustrated by The fabled Maxwell Land Grant in northern New Mexico is the character of the deadly yet noble gunman Lassiter approaches the by the author. Ben Carlton IVlead. Dallas, The Southwest Press. [1930] 367 pp. background for this story of the civilizing effect of baronial life epic folk hero in its powerful simplification-a character personi­ THE CENTURIES OF SANTE FE. New York, E. P. Dutton Classic work on the subject. and women on the storied mountain men and their successors. The fied by the movie actor William S. Hart, slit-eyed, steel-muscled, & Co. [ 1956] 363 PP· R. L. DUFFUS (1888- ) high country with its snowy peaks and hidden valleys, the great and claw-fingered on the draw. The final scene when Lassiter, The spiritual center of the Southwest seen through the eyes of JORNADA. New York, Covici, Friede. [1935] 313 pp. old haciendas with their stately mores, the curious character of a Jane, and Fay escape into the high hidden valley and Lassiter contemporary protagonists under Spanish, Mexican, and American Historical novel about a caravan on the Santa Fe trail in 1846, on man both savage and tamed, combine realistically herein as per­ closes the narrow pass by rolling the balancing rock, is perhaps the rule, true to history, and told with imaginative emphasis, Chapter the eve of the Mexican War, intrigue over arms, the beauteous haps only Fergusson, with his roots deep in New Mexico's soil, finest moment in all western fiction. headings from the author's drawings are an integral part of this Dofia Mercedes, and Martin Collins, an ardent Yankee greenhorn. can do. THE LIGHT OF W ESTERN STARS, A ROMANCE. New beautiful work. The title refers to the desert crossing in New Mexico. The poetry of W off Song has become more rich in texture, the York, Harper & Brothers. [ 1914] 388 pp. T. C. HOYT WILLIAM EASTLAKE vision of life wiser and more complex. The excessively melodramatic plot-eastern society girl, virile cow­ RIMROCK: A STORY OF THE WEST. Boston, The Four Seas GO IN BEAUTY. New York, Harper & Bros. [1956] 279 pp. THE CONQUEST OF DON PEDRO. New York, William Mor­ boy, crooked sheriff, lustful guerilla, wild ride (in a newfangled Co. ( 192 3] 319 PP· A strong, simply written first novel about the powerful influence row. [ 1954] 25° PP· motorcar) across the border to halt the hero's execution-reads Characters remain wooden in this earnest effort to novelize the on Navajos and Whites of the land round about Cuba in northern The "conquest" is of an old Spanish settlement on the Rio Grande today almost like a satire on this kind of novel. The setting is details of life on a cattle ranch in northern Arizona near the Utah New Mexico. south of Albuquerque, in the years following the Civil War, by Southwestern New Mexico into Arizona and Sonora, and although border. LUCILE SELK EDGERTON (1896- Leo Mendes, a Jewish peddler from N ew York who subsequently it is accurately observed, Grey's feeling for this landscape lacks DOROTHY B. HUGHES (1904- ) PILLARS OF GOLD. New York, A. A. Knopf. [1941] 403 pp. by non-violent means becomes a powerful figure in a violent fron­ the initial passion he felt for the Coconino plateau and the Arizona RIDE THE PINK HORSE. New York, Duell, Sloane & Pearce. Romantic documented novel of the lower Rio Colorado in the tier society. Fergusson's treatment of sex is frank and true and Strip. I 1946] 248 PP· 186o's, when a gold strike and the struggle between Unionists and tender. THE RAINBOW TRAIL, A ROMANCE. New York, Harper A tough mystery novel, set in Santa Fe at Fiesta time. The pink Secessionists punctuate the efforts of a San Francisco group to As Grant of Kingdom is a maturer version of W off Song, so horse is a part of Tio Vivo, the little merry-go-round which is develop a steamship service from the Gulf to the Grand Canyon. & Brothers. [ 1915 l 372 PP· is Don Pedro a riper treatment of the themes of In Those Days. For this sequel to Riders of tbe Purple Sage Grey returned to the set up in the old Plaza. HARVEY FERGUSSON (1890- ) ANTONIO de FIERRO BLANCO, Pseud. Navajo-Mormon country on the Arizona-Utah border, and takes THOMAS A. JANVIER (1849-1913) FOLLOWERS OF THE SUN, A TRILOGY OF THE THE JOURNEY OF THE FLAME. Boston, Houghton Mifflin his characters over the Rainbow Bridge and down the Grand SANTA FE's PARTNER; BEING SOME MEMORIALS OF SANT A FE TRAIL: WOLF SONG, IN THOSE DAYS, THE Co. [ 1933] 295 PP· Canyon. EVENTS IN A NEW MEXICAN TRACK-END TOWN. New

PAGE EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 HONORE WILLSIE MORROW (1880-1940) York, Harper & Brothers. [1907] 237 pp. THE ENCHANTED CANYON, A NOVEL OF THE Talcs of a town on the Rio Grande called Palomitas in territorial GRAND CANYON AND THE ARIZONA DESERT. New times, which are another example of Bret Harte's influence on York, Frederick A. Stokes. [ 192 I] 346 pp. frontier fiction. An absurdly romantic story, with just enough feeling for land­ CORNELIA JESSEY (1910- scape and interest in reclamation to give it a marginal position THE TREASURES OF DARKNESS. New York, Noonday among Southwest novels. Press. [1953] 310 pp. JOHN LOUW NELSON A psychological study of paternal incest and matricide, all trans­ RHYTHM FOR RAIN. Boston, Houghton Mifflin Co. [ 1937 J piring in retrospect as the heroine returns by train from California 2 72 PP· via Ash Fork to her girlhood home in Prescott ( called Deniza) . A documentary novel, with photographic illustrations and a CLARENCE EDDINGTON KELLAND (1881- ) . . .~-t:· ~;~--,~ glossary, of the Hopi Indian ceremonials of northern Arizona. ARIZONA. New York, Harper & Brothers. 1939] 278 pp. •... .,,,-:1,f!i;,,,e ,?t"""-

PAGE TEN • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • F EBRUARY 1957 Fly Co. [ 1917 l 304 pp. ROSS SANTEE (1889- Dramatic vignettes of desert lore by the author-printer-binder who JACK WEADOCK (1899- ) These three volumes seem to me the best of the work of Nebraska­ THE BUBBLING SPRING. New York, Charles Scribner's Sons. was the first to "glamorize" the Nevada desert. Illustrations are DUST OF THE D ESERT, PLAIN TALES O F T HE D ESERT Kansas-New Mexico-California-New York formed Gene Rhodes, [ 1949] 3oo PP· by Maynard D ixon. This volume a nd the author's In Miner's AND THE BORDER. Illustrated by Jack Van Ryder. New York, the most literary and humanistic cowboy-writer of them all. His No false romance or glamor about this earthy story of the com­ Mirage-Land ( 1904) and T he Land of Purple Sbadows ( 1909) D. Appleton-Century Co. [ 1936] 306 pp. books are to the southern Rio Grande Valley of New l\ilexico ing to manhood of a young emigrant to the Southwest in the time represent the beginnings of fine book production i n Los Angeles, Simply told folk-tales of Indian and White characters of southern what Harvey Fergusson's are to the north-an essential expression of the Apache uprisings, of his w ork as a cowboy, marriage to a in w hich content, format, and illustrations join harmoniously. Arizona and New Mexico. A foreword by G eorge H . D oran of the land and its lore, wind and weather-and though his s tyle frontier girl, and their homesteading at "the bubbling spring" in RICHARD A. SUMMERS (1906- ) gives some facts about the a uthor and the illustrator. the story and heighten - ) tends to be over-literary and his plots were tailored to the Satur­ New Mexico. Santee's drawings intersperse DARK MADONNA. Caldwell, Caxton Printers. (1937] 294 pp. PAUL I. WELLMAN (1898 day Evening Post which gave him a living, the m an's knowledge the reader's feeling that this is really the way it w as. T ucson 's "Little Mexico" quarter is the setting of this good novel BRONCO APACHE, A NOVEL. New York, the Macmillan 25 7 pp. was first-hand and his v ision noble, all of which is beautifully COWBOY. New York, Cosmopolitan. [1 928 ] about a Mexican family in the Depression. It reveals the author's Co. [ 1936] 303 pp. rn Arizona and New Mexico, and the story expounded by J. Frank Dobie in "A Salute to Gene Rhodes" in The setting is southe deep sympathy and knowledge of Mexican-Indian behavior, their T his is the fictional story of Massai, the legendary Apache who illustrated by one of the all-time best cowboy Tbe Best Novels and Stories of Eugene Manlove R hodes, edited is written and folklore and superstitions, a nd his true feeling for the weather escaped from Geronimo's prison train i n 1886, and made his way to Dobie, nowhere else can be found a by Frank V. Dearing. (Boston, Houghton Mifflin Co., 1949, 551 writer-artists. According and landscape of Tucson. . back to the Apacheria, where for several years, before finally pp.) Another valuable posthumous volume, T he Little 1'Vorld better description of drouth or of rain and its g reening effect o n disappearing, he waged a ruthless single-handed w ar against W hites T HE DEVIL'S H IG H WAY. New York, Thomas N elson & l,V ad dies, collects other stories and poems, has an end paper map man and beast as well as on grass. and Mexicans. Based on careful research, as are all of Wellman's Sons. [ 1937] 299 pp. of the Rhodes country, illustrations by Harold Bugbee, and also HARDROCK AND SILVER SAGE. New York, Charles Scrib­ books. Based faithfully on the life of Padre Kino, the great Jesuit ex­ contains the Dobie tribute (printed by Carl H ertzog of El Paso ner's Sons. [ 1951 J 224 pp. JUBAL T ROOP. New York, Carrick and Evans. [ 1939] 583 pp. missionary of w hat is now Sonora and Arizona. End for William Hutchinson, 1946) . Hutchinson's excellent biography The lore of mining, trapping, and cowpunching as seen through plorer and A full-blooded melodramatic novel which ranges the Texas-New and lithographic illustrations by N ils Hagner increase of Rhodes, A Bar Cross Man, appeared in 1956. the eyes of two boys, the sons of an itinerant intellectual miner, paper inaps Mexico-Chihuahua border country of bandits and cattle and ends interest. CONRAD RICHTER ( 1890- ) in the high country around Globe, Arizona. T he author's illustra­ the book's up in oily Oklahoma. EARLY AMERICANA AND OTHER STORIES. New York, tions are true to his text and the land it describes. ROSEMARY TAYLOR (1 899- ) H ELEN C. WHITE ( 1896- A. A. Knopf. [1936] 322 pp. [DOROTHY SCARBOROUGH ( 1858-1935 )] CHICKEN EVERY SUNDAY: MY LIFE W ITH MO THER'S DU ST ON T H E K ING'S HlGHvVAY. New York, The Mac­ The plains country west of the Arkansas to Santa Fe is the setting THE WIND: ANONYMOUS. New York, Harper & Brothers. BOARDERS. Illustrated by Donald McKay. New York, 'Whittlesey millan Co. [ 1947 ] 468 pp. of these stories about Indians, drought, and the coming of the (1925] 337 pp. House. l 1943 ] 307 PP· Francisco G arces (1738-1781 ) is the protagonist of this best o f all railroad. The author found early newspaper fil es to be a rich A morbid story of the madness w hich overtakes a Virginia woman, A l ively account of folksy people in a T ucson boarding-house. novels about the Spanish missionaries t o t he Southwest. His heroic mine, and supplemented this research by talks w ith old-timers and married to a rancher on the plains of West Texas, w hen the per­ RIDTN' THE RAINBOW; FATHER 'S LIFE IN T UCSON. series of entradas into t he land of t he Hopis an d H avasupais and familiarity w ith the terrain. sistent wind finally blows a way her reason. According to Dobie, Illustrations by Donald McKay. New York, Whittlesey H ouse. beyond to the San Joaquin Valley in California and his final mar­ THE SEA OF GRASS. New York, A. A. Knopf. [ 1937] 149 pp. the book's realism excited the wrath of Chambers of Commerce (1944] 271 pp. tyrdom by the Yumas near the junction of the G ila and the Colo­ boosters, much as T he Grapes of T,Vrath aroused T he setting is a g reat ranch of grazing land in West Texas, en­ and other Texas A novelized biography of Father, a pioneer character, filled with rado, are told by the Catholic author with both fidelity and im­ croached on by nesters, and the story is of the unyielding baronial the Associated Farmers in California. the folklore of Southern Arizona. agination. rancher's inability to hold a high-spirited young wife, all seen JOHN L. SINCLAIR (1902- ) R UTH M. UNDERHILL (1884- ) STEWART EDWARD WHITE (1873-1946) through the eyes of the young nephew. Richter's work is the es­ IN TIME OF HARVEST. New York, The Macmillan Co. (1943] H A WK OVER WHIRLPOOLS. New York, J. J. Augustin. [ 1940] ARIZONA NIGHTS; illustrations by N . C. W yeth. New York, sential distillation of research and observation during long resi­ 226 pp. The /\,lcClure Co. [ 1907 ] 35 1 pp. 2 55 dence in the Southwest. The setting is Torrance County in southeastern New Mexico, the PP· emen, greenhorns and Indians in southern Sympathetic novel about the impact of government policies on G ood yarns of cattl TACEY CROMWELL. New York, A. A. Knopf. [1942] 208 pp. people Okie, Texie, a nd Arkie immigrant farmers, called nesters, Arizona. T he landscape from Mt. Graham to Yuma is e voked in a Navajo village during the Depression, written by a creative Again Richter uses the device of a young narrator to tell the story the crop pinto beans. Full of earthy humor and folklore. simple, vivid language. A novelette c alled "T he Rawhide" an­ of a frontier m adame who leaves Socorro and attempts to become DAMA MARGARET SMITH ( 1892 - ) anthropologist. FRANK W ATERS (1902- ticipates Richter 's T in Sea of Grass, and has been named by respectable as the wife of a gambler in Bisbee. T he look and the HOPI G IRL; with a foreword by Ray Lyman W ilbur. Stanford White as the most coherent of all his stories and novels. T HE DEER. New York, Farrar life of the southern Arizona copper town are vividly evoked. University Press. (193 !] 27 3 PP· T H E MAN WHO KILLED OW EN WISTER ( 1860-1938) art. [ 1942 ] 3 11 pp. . WILL H. ROBINSON (1867-1 938) Documentary novel of the northern Arizona tribe, pitched to a and Rineh RED MEN AND WHITE; illustrated by Frederic Remington. THIRSTY EARTH. New York, Julian Messner. [1937] 288 pp. low and quiet tone. T he setting for this study of "crime and punishment" is an Indian New York, Harper & Brothers. [ 1896] 280 pp. The drama of irrigation and reclamation development in the Salt JOHN STEINBECK (1902- ) puebio in northern New Mexico. Includes vivid details of cere­ Contains such memorable s outhern Arizona stories as "Specimen R iver Valley in the 189o's. Good description of the Hopi Snake THE GRAPES OF WRATH. New York, The Viking Press. monials of the peyote cult, told with sympathy from the Indian Jones," "La T inaja Bonita," and "A Pilgrim on the G ila," all of Dance at W alpi, and true to the climate and configuration of the [ 1939] 619 pp. point of view. which owe much to Bret H arte. A decade later in the W yoming Arizona landscape. The high point of Steinbeck's achievement, this powerful novel Waters' two earlier novels Below G rass R oots (1937) and T be novel called T be V irginian, W ister fixed the cowboy-hero mould MARAH ELLIS RYAN ( 1860-1934) tells of Oklahoma dust-bowl fugitives to California, where the Dust Witbin tbe R ock (1940) contain memorable episodes set in which has been turning out westerns ever since. · THE FLUTE OF THE G ODS; illustrated b y Edward S . Curtis. Joad family typies the plight of the migratory farm workers in the border country of New Mexico and Colorado, but are mostly HAROLD BELL WRIGHT (1872-1 944) N ew York, F. A. Stokes Co. [1909] 338 pp. the San J oaquin V alley. Included as a Southwest novel because mining stories of the Cripple Creek Country, marked by a dithy­ THE MINE WITH THE IRON DOOR, A ROMANCE. New The ritual l ore of the Indian tribes of northern Arizona and New of the epic crossing on U . S. H ighway 66. rambic quality reminiscent of Thomas Wolfe's N orth Carolin :1 York, D. Appleton & Co. [1923 ] 339 pp. Mexico is the exotic scuff of this novel, set in the 16th century RAMONA STEWART (1922- ) novels. Few American authors have exceeded vVright in sales. Zane G rey . of the Conquistadores, with posed "arty'' photographs for illustra­ DESERT TOWN . New York, William Morrow. [1946] 248 pp. PEOPLE OF THE VALLEY. New York, Farrar & Rinehart. ran third to him and Gene Stratton Porter. N o American authors tion. Barstow in California's San B ernardino County, a Santa Fe shop l 1941 l 309 pp. have exceeded Wright in sentimentality. I have included this one, V. SACKVILLE-W EST (1892- town and ranching center, is said to be the original of "Desert Earthy story of the rise of Maria the goat-girl, w ho becomes laid in the Santa Catalinas near Tucson, to show Wright's s ac­ GRAND CANYON, A NOVEL. Garden City, Doubleday, Town." The story is of "protected vice" and gives insight into Dona Maria de! Valle, the rich witchcrafty ruler of a native charine consistency in sentimentalizing traditional Southwest Doran & Co. [ 1942 l 304 pp. the workings of the Sheriff's Office. community in northern N ew Mexico, and of h er r esistance 'to props: prospectors, badmen, Indians, womanhood, wildlife, and l at the An odd book by t he E nglish writer who uses a tourist hote IDAH MEECHAM STROBRIDGE (1855-1932) an Anglo-sponsored government dam, told with sensuous insight the desert itself, in a way that makes Zane Grey seem cold and a Nazi , Artemesia Bind­ Canyon as center of a satirical conversation piece, with T H E LOOM OF THE DESERT. Los Angeles f into the mysteries of Sex and Death. hard. invasion tossed in for timeliness. ery]. [ 1907] 141 pp. \ \, \ . \ \ \

Cnmer.a outfit used by the author is shown here: (z) Burke & James 4x5-inch press camera; (2) normal focal length lens; (3) exposure meter; (4) sunshade and filter; (5) wide-angle lens; (6) cut film holders; and (7) ball-joint tripod head. (PRESCRIPTION) • • • FOR CONTENTMENT BY CARLOS ELMER

PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR

D ear R eader: Are y ou nervous, rundow n, and afraid the selection of equipment. Most cities have camera stores you the ability to shoot scenes which have Cinemascope­ With your king-sized tripod successfully assembled to face the mountain of paperwork on your desk? If you that sell both new and used cameras, and I suggest that like dimensions. A lens such as my 90mm Schneider you are ready to pick out your small tripod, either metal fit that d escription, just follow these simple directions you start shopping for a used 4x5 inch Press camera. I Angolan in shutter should cost about $60.00 new. or wooden. This additional item is needed for the low and your cure is guaranteed. Not only will your office use a Burke and James Press camera, which sells for Now for the tripod department. I recommend that angle shots that you will make from time to time, since cares di sappear, but y ou may find your name gracing around $ 100.00 in used condition with a standard focal you buy a two-sectioned ,vooden tripod, which should your other tripod now has a minimum height of more these pages as a m ember of the ARIZO NA HIGHWAYS fam­ length lens. You won't need flash equipment or even a cost about $8.oo used. Have you got it? Okay, now buy than three feet. The tripod equipment is completed by ily o f photographers! rangefinder, and the focal plane shutter found in Speed a second one just like it. At this point The Little Woman, purchase of a Linhof ball and socket type tripod head, My prescription for your ills is that y ou obtain a Graphic cameras will probably find scant use in your if she has accompanied you on your shopping spree, which will fit either tripod. This last item ( about $ r o.oo) relatively inexpensive but professional type camera outfit, work. The lens need not be very fast-mine is f6.8- will start casting steely glances in your direction. Ignore is perhaps the most important single accessory you can a few packages of color film, and spend some vacations since you will shoot nearly all of your pictures at slow them, and start to disassemble the second tripod. By this obtain to transform akward fumbling into smooth and and weekends photographing the wonders of Arizona. shutter speeds with the lens stopped down to at least fr 6. time the camera shop proprietor will be so fascinated by easy camera operation. You w ill enjoy the experience immensely, and w ill end This speed of f 6.8 is enough to permit convenient focus­ the proceedings that he will help you, and you will soon A good exposure meter ( $ 2 .5oo) and a Polaroid filter up with some color transparencies that may well interest ing and composition of the picture on the camera's have tripod parts strewn all over the floor. A few small ( $6.oo) should complete your outfit. This adds up to: the editors of this magazine. ground glass. Yes, you will do almost all of your work holes drilled in the tripod legs and some bolts will D"ive Camera with 6 inch lens $ 100.00 You say that you're no photographer-that you never by ground glass composition with the camera mounted you an extended-height wooden tripod that shguld Camera case 5.oo got b eyond the Box Brownie s tage? Well, s o much the on a stout tripod, just as they did in grandma's day. While measure about six feet tall when set up. Save the extra 5 cut film holders@ $5.00 25.00 better. You w ill start without the handicap of precon­ a Vi~w camera is more versatile for this type of work, legs, for they are sometimes needed to replace those 2 wooden tripods @ $8.oo 16.oo ceived n otions o f how t he job should be done. After you I believe you may find the Press type camera a little broken through wear and tear. This big tripod will look Wide angle lens 60.00 get used t o t he mechanics of setting up your equipment easier to handle at first. rather strange, but it will be your best friend as you work Metal tripod I o.oo and making reasonably correct exposures, y ou will then Your ca?1era sho1:1ld be housed in a strong but com­ on steep hillsides or shoot over high brush. If you are Tripod head rn.oo develop your ability to see photographic subjects and pact case with carrymg handle, and you will need at tall you can stand on the camera case to see the ground Exposure meter 25 .oo compose them attractively. least five double cut film holders. If your budget can glass when the tripod is fully extended. If you aren't tall, Polaroid filter 6.oo Your first step on the road to contentment will be stand it, you should also get a wide angle lens to give you had better bring along the kitchen stool! Total $257.00

PAGE F0U RTEE~ • ARIZO NA HI GH\VAYS • FEB RU ARY 195 7 TV hen a hike far from the car is necessary, the author enlists the aid of his family to carry the heavy items of equipment, leaving him with only the exposure meter.

While these expenditures will vary a bit, either up or from the dirt road that centers the canyon at Sedona. Many a down, it appears that $260.00 should get you fairly well black-sombreroed hombre has bitten the dust before the blazing equipped. If you decide after a good trial that color pho­ six-guns of a white-sombreroed cowboy hero with these buttes as a background, while Hollywood's cameras ground away. The tography isn't your game, you should be able to recover Schnebly Hill road makes a nice loop trip from Flagstaff, leaving most of this cost by selling the equipment. Alternate U.S. 89 5 miles south of Flagstaff. After some 25 miles So much for the initial cost, which isn't bad when of travel through beautiful pine forests the road starts its descent compared to the money that a devoted hunter or fisher­ into the canyon, continuing another 4 or 5 miles to Sedona. Fro111 man will spend to get outfitted. You will be something Sedona, the paved highway can be taken back to Flagstaff. like the fisherman who really doesn't care a great deal Goertz Aerotar 6 inch lens, f.14, 1.2 5th second, Polaroid filter. "FROM TOROWEAP POINT-GRAND CANYON." Those if he catches anything or not-he's just out fishing. Un­ of us who hail from Mohave County are right proud of the part like the professional photographer, who must get salable of the Grand Canyon that is in our territory. This is Grand pictures if he is to eat, you're doing it just for fun, and Canyon National Monument, west of the National Park, and any money return should be thought of as so much location of one of the world's great jumping-off points. The gravy. (The reader is assured that income will probably Ranger told me that about 500 people see this sight each year, so not exceed outgo.-Wilma El7ner, camera widorw.) that you seldom run into a crowd of visitors out there. The road heads southwest from Fredonia for a distance of 67 miles. You Upkeep will depend upon how much 4x5 color film can't miss the end of the road-there's nothing but 4,000 feet of you shoot at about $ 1. 1 5 per exposure for film and space at that spot, with the muddy Colorado River at the bottom. processing. Since your primary objective is relaxation 90 mm. Schneider Angulon wide-angle lens, f.12, r.25th second, and pleasure, shooting this expensive film is essential to Polaroid filter. your plan. Otherwise, you might shoot so many pictures "MOGOLLON RIM SUNSET." The end of a brisk October that it would turn into ordinary hard work. What better day found Hully Burroughs, Bob Fyfe, and myself at this point on the lofty Mogollon Rim that stretches across northcentral way is there to insure careful selectivity than by taking Arizona. We had been shooting pictures all day, which accounted for the fact that we had traveled only 95 miles from our start early that morning in Show Low to when sunset overtook us. NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS This is some more uncrowded Arizona real estate- no hot dog BY CARLOS ELMER stands or 111otels on this road. The view looks southwest towards All of tbe p/.iotograp/Js in tbis color section were made with a Pine and Payson, and what a view it is 1 90 mm. Schneider Angulon 4xs i11 c!.1 Burke & James press camera, using Ektachrome film wide-angle lens, f. r r, r.z 5th second. u11less ot/.ierwise stated. CENTER PANEL OPPOSITE PAGE "A STILL WORLD- JOSHUA WINTER." One of the desert's "A GLl,\1PSE OF LAKE 1VIEAD." iV!other Nature went on a most striking scenes is found when a snowstorm visits the painting spree in this little gulley on the south shore of Lake Mead grotesque forests of Joshua trees that stretch through northwest­ near Hoover Dam. Just two miles west of the da111 on the highway ern Arizona, southern Nevada, and southern California. I was to Boulder City, this small ravine is hardly noticed by the stream­ taking my little niece, Elizabeth Ann Glass, back to her home in lined, supercharged traveler who flashes by with his car's many Phoenix when we came across this spot. The beauty and calm of horses in full gallop. Take a break for a minute or two, ,\1Jr. the scene were broken only by the fact that "Sissie" Glass was Tourist, and clamber down the bank into this natural paint-pot­ pelting the photographer with snowballs while he was defense­ it's fun 1 90 111m. Schneider Angulon wide-angle lens, f.18, 1.25th. less under the dark cloth. Such are the occupational hazards of "VIE\V FROM SCHNEBLY HILL." Only a few of the thousands the landscape photographer! 6 inch Goertz Aerotar lens, f.22, 1.10th of persons who visit Oak Creek Canyon each year see this view second, Polaroid filter.

PAGE SIXTEEN • AR I ZONA HIGH vV A Y S • FEBRUARY 1957 From T oroweap Point - Grand

The Winding River - View down the Tonto Lights and Shad,ows across the Altar Valley Autumn Color Along the Big Sandy Chol/a and Bristling Peaks - Near Superior "THE W INDIN G RIVER VIEW -DOWN T H E TONTO ." For ease i n composition and focusing you will need Tonto Creek winds down its valley towards R oosevelt Lake, a dark cloth to shield the g round glass from stray light. about JO miles further downstream. T he road from the high You might enlist your wife's assistance in the manufacture country at Pine and Payson passes this spot as it descends into the saguaro country of the Salt River National Wildlife Refuge, of a cloth that is black on one side and white on t he other. with R oosevelt Darn and the rugged area of the Apache T rail As an extra touch she might e ven include an elastic­ beyond. 6 inch G oertz Aerotar lens, f.1 r, r.2 5th second, Koda­ rimmed opening to fit over the camera back. T he white chrome film. side of the cloth is needed to make life under t he dark "AUTUMN COLOR ALONG T HE BIG SANDY." T he b asin cloth a b it c ooler than w ould otherwise be the case. of the Big Sandy River, southeast of Kingman, takes on a new Yes, you will spend a lot of time under t hat focusing color w hen autumn touches the bushes of that area. T his picture was made near W ikieup, along U.S. 93 about 55 miles from hood, for you will soon learn how the movement of your Kingman. Construction of this new highway is w ell along towards camera just a few feet or even a few inches can c om­ completion, a nd many thousands of t ravelers already use it pletely change a picture. T ake y our time and try several regularly as a fast and interesting route from central Arizona to different compositions, using t rees, rocks, and other fore­ the unparalleled fishing and recreational areas of Mohave County. ground objects to best advantage as frames for your pic­ 90 mm. Schneider Angulon lens, f.2 2, 1.1oth second. tures. O nly through u se of the ground g lass, for example, "LIGHTS AND SHADOWS ACROSS THE A LT AR VAL­ LEY." When H ulbert Burroughs and I came across this hill in can you begin to realize t he amazing capabilities of your the A ltar V alley, 39 miles west of T ucson on State H ighway 86, wide angle lens as you literally get on top of an object we promptly climbed to its top and s hot up our entire supply of and use it a s a b it of foreground interest to set off a dis­ color film. T he c ombination of light, clouds, and towering sa­ tant scene. guaros created fine pictures in every direction. T his view looks Advice and assistance from other photographers will southeast towards the Cerro Colorado Mountains- the towering available in profusion as you begin your photographic peaks of the Baboquivari Mountains are just to the west of this be point. 6 inch G oertz Aerotar lens, f .11 , r.25th second, Kodachrome career. T hat advice which concerns your equipment and film. its use should be welcomed and heeded. T hat which is "CHOLLA AND BRISTLIN G P EAKS NEAR SUPERIOR." offered as to your artistic accomplishments is m ore diffi­ This huge cholla cactus frames rugged mountains at Boyce cult to evaluate. T o a large extent you will know, your­ Thompson Arboretum- an unusual c ollection of desert plants self, if the results are p leasing to you and have captured found just west of Superior, Arizona, on U .S. 60-70. Our cholla in Mohave County g row to a respectable height of three or four the scenes about as you saw them. Many of your pictures feet, and I thought that this was true of all cholla until I saw will do just that, but others will disappoint you, since this one, w hich must tower a good 15 feet into the air. 6 inch some delicate moods which you felt in the scenes were Goertz Aerotar lens, f.11, 1. 1oth second, Polaroid filter. somehow lost in the transition t o fi lm. Many, many others, O PPOS I T E P A GE however, w ill actually improve in this translation to pho­ "SUMMER 'S COLOR- NORTHERN ARIZONA." Flowers, tographic images, and you will receive many pleasant sur­ blue skies, and the clouds of summer mark this picture as typical of prises when you receive y our pictures from the lab . the beautiful summer days found in N orthern Arizona. T his view Much excellent advice is c ontained i n a s eries of looks eastward tow ar ds the towering heights of Mt. H umphrey near Flagstaff, as seen from along U .S. 66 about 7 miles east of articles that h as appeared in ARIZONA H IGHWAYS on the Williams. 90 mm. Schneider Angulon wide-angle lens, f.1 8, r. rnth subject of photography in Arizona.1 U nfortunately m any second. of these issues are no longer available. Additional ideas can be gained through careful study of the color pictures that have appeared in the magazine during the past decade. pi_ctures costing m ore than a d ollar e very time the shutter Many subjects are portrayed again and again, but there is clicks? The above theory is mentioned primarily for your always room for a nother u nusual view of the G rand Can­ w hole business to your wife, with use in explaining the yon, Monument V alley, or H oover Dam. l probably go over like a lead w hom this argument wil , For a truly outstanding experience in photographic balloon. (Yes.- W . E.) education and plain g ood fun I can highly recommend ed, you With equipment ready and fi lm holders load the annual p hotographic workshops given in Yosemite y about are ready to go. Just take it easy and don't w orr Valley by Ansel Adams. T his master of the photographic ects in A rizona. Documenting that running out of subj medium is a fine teacher and a w onderful person whose with new surprises waiting to state is a lifetime task, enthusiasm can be very inspiring. set forth. M any of the most greet you every time y ou Most persons do not realize t hat ARIZONA H IGHWAYS paved fascinating subjects are found after y ou l eave the has neither staff photographers nor staff writers, but relies will look much different a t highways, and one subject completely upon contributions from both professional of the various times of the year or even at different times and amateur members of t hose fields. I n c olor photogra­ day. phy, transparencies of 4x5 inch o r larger size sent in by ing your camera and looking You will enjoy sett up new contributors are reviewed w ith keen interest, and round glass. The magic of optics at scenes through the g new names appear in the magazine with great frequency. somehow makes scenes look b etter than they do to t he During the five-year period 1952- 1956, a total of 77 new unaided eye. After some time you will become accus­ color p hotographers showed u p in the pages of the maga- tomed to the upside-dow n images on the g round glass, but don't be ashamed to practically stand on your h ead 1 Articles by photographers published to date include: Josef to see them r ight side up. Even old hands are known Muench, "Focusing on Arizona," O ctober, 1952 . Esther H ender­ to do it once in awhile w hen they have difficulty in prop­ son, "Way Out W est," January, 1953. J. H. McGibbeny, "N ava­ erly analyzing pictures as first seen. It's hard to stand on jos A re My Subjects," July, 195 3. Hubert A. Lowman, "Confes­ sions of a Free-Lancer;" February, 1954. Don Bleitz, "Adventures your head, though, when your camera tow ers at a height W ith Birds in A rizona," M arch, 1 955. Chuck Abbott, "You've of some seven feet on your super tripod. Then you may Got to Go Back to get the Good Ones," September, 1955 . R ay be lucky to g et an ad equate look at the image. Manley, "Arizona Is My Studio," August, 1956. zine, and many of these made repeat appearances a fter land of photographic subjects, including the nation's their initial publications. most impressive forest of grotesque J oshua trees, the pine You might also make some s ales of your color clad H ualpai Mountains, the rugged Black Mountains pictures through a photographic agency. Agencies a re dotted with old mining camps, and the beautiful string alw ays interested in reviewing new color material 4x5 of lakes, H avasu, Mohave, and Mead, formed along the inches o r l arger, and may handle your pictures for Colorado River to the west. you if they a re of good quality. T heir commissions are T he desert lover who would enjoy a real, unspoiled w ell-earned, i n my opinion, since they take o ver t he job ghost tow n should visit Kofa. T his is the King of Arizona of receiving all of your rejection letters. T hen, too, you mine, which nestles in the jagged Kofa Mountains north­ just won't h ave enough sp are time to do an adequate east of Yuma. T he deserted camp seems ready to spring job of sending your material t o potential markets. to life, as t hough its inhabitants had just gone down If you are an avid hiker and camper you will prob­ the c anyon for a brief picnic, instead of departing for­ ably perform these functions on your photographic ever a half century ago. trips. If you are neither, your photographic s tyle will And then there is autumn in the W hite Mountains, not be appreciably cramped, however. Every color pho­ a c ascade of color which neither mind nor lens can fully tograph used to illustrate this article was made from grasp. T here is no better spot to s tart a photographic within a few h undred feet of the car, and the majority coverage of W hite Mountain fall color than a com­ from just o ff the road. While I admire those who hike fortable chair in front of Eric Marks' fireplace. Eric, who in to seldom seen spots far from the beaten track, I just once held a seat on the New York Stock Exchange, now don't like to w ork that hard while c arrying the camera has his seat firmly planted in S how Low, A rizona, where outfit described above. I have made a f ew lengthy hikes he functions as genial host at Paint Pony Lodge. H ere with my camera equipment, but w henever I started eight or ten lucky guests get to listen to Eric's im­ feeling sorry for myself I would r emember that Esther probable stories and sample M ary Marks' incomparable Henderson had probably trod the same p ath several times cooking. w hile carrying her 5x7 inch camera outfit ! As I recall On Sunday, October 7, 1957, I intend to sit in this charming lady she c an't be quite five f eet tall, so I front of that fireplace, and, with Eric's help, p lot new figured t hat I could make it, too. photographic assaults upon N ature. After supper I will ·· Should you p ref er an innerspring mattress and hot preempt Eric's own bathroom- the only light-tight room shower to the c amping o ut life, then you will become a in the house- and will perform the film loading ritual, motel dweller on your photographic j unkets to Arizona. complete with incantations. At a reasonable hour the As you inspect the quarters offered you, h owever, your following morning I will drive through the White Moun­ first glance will be for neither bed nor shower. You will tains to Big L ake, on whose shores jumbo tripod, camera, first inspect the closet, preferably by sitting on its fl oor and all accessories will be d uly set up. As I peer at that and closing the door behind you. Since motel owners upside-down view of blue water and golden leaves my are generally not accustomed to p hotographers who must crowded desk will seem several light years distant. Maybe unload and load cut film holders each night, it might be I'll see you there. · well to explain the grim facts of film changing to them You might be a little worried about this idea of in advance. W hile on a four day photographic tour of concentrating upon Arizona, and perhaps y ou wonder the state, Hulbert Burroughs and I s tayed one night at if a few trips through the state might exhaust the photo­ a motel in Wickenburg. As w e arranged dark cloths over graphic material really worth shooting on these expensive generous cracks in the closet door and began to unload sheets of film. To repeat the legendary statement of a film holders i n what we hoped was total d arkness, we famous Hollywood producer, "In two well-chosen words could hear t wo elderly ladies in t he a djoining room ex­ - IM POSSIBLE!" T he color documentation of Arizona is pressing some alarm over the s trange noises issuing from a lifetime task, and one w hich will continue to arouse our closet. T hese noises included, of course, the cus­ your enthusiasm and test your skill for as long as the tomary amount of muted but exasperated comment di­ land is t here and you are around to record it through rected t oward balky holders and pieces of film that just your lens. _ didn't quite seem to possess the correct dimensions. As J'hese remarks have merely served to introduce the we departed the next morning two faces were detected main subject of this article, which is a series of photo­ peering from behind curtains to observe what manner of graphic trips that can be made through Arizona at vari­ creature could be responsible for such activities. ous times of the year. T here are short trips and extended My list of suggested Arizona photographic subj ects ones, visits to the pines and to the desert wastes, and must start with Toroweap P oint, a king s ized jumping trips for each season of the year. T hey are all lots of off place in Grand Canyon National M onument, which fun, and that pile of papers on my desk already seems adj oins t he Park o n t he west. N othing in your previous far away as I just think about some of these places that experience can quite prepare you for your first look over are waiting for me and my camera. So, here is a photog­ the edge to the muddy Colorado River m any thousands rapher's guide to contentment! of dizzy, vertical feet below. The route is southwest from T RIP NUMBER 1 Fredonia, and it isn't very crowded, about two people a A R IZONA IN SPRINGT IM E a day being t he average over a year's time. En route, you Start: Hoover Dam w ill enjoy inspecting and photographing Pipe Spring N a­ End: Yuma tional Monument, an old Mormon fort w hich guards a Distance: 1,419 miles large and refreshing oasis in the barren m esa lands west T ime: 7 days of Fredonia. Season: Spring (April) Kingman, my home town, is the center of a wonder- FIRST DAY: When B ully Burroughs and I made this Fishing at Lake Mead

P AGE T W ENTY- S E VE N • ARIZO NA HIGHWAYS • FEBR UAR Y 19 57 places such as Boynton Canyon, Dry Creek (it had water can food. As we were enjoying our meal a tremendous through vast patches of yellow and gold before reaching in it when we were there), and an interesting little explosion took place, seemingly just outside the door. the lake, now deserted by the fishermen whose boats natural bridge in the Dry Creek area. The decision to As we dove under the table we noted that none of the dotted its surface only a few weeks before. From Big put away your camera and leave Oak Creek Canyon regular customers had even glanced up from his enchi­ Lake the road turns north towards Eagar and winds its will be one of the most difficult ones you must face dur­ ladas. It seems that this was a routine blasting operation way through more patches of color until U.S. 60 is again ing this trip. From Sedona the dirt road leads to Monte­ in the big copper pit, and the only persons shaken by reached at Springerville. From here, the idea is to get zuma Well and Camp Verde before turning east and these proceedings are the tourists. Sixth night's stay-Ajo. back to Paint Pony as quickly as possible. The big picnic heading up a long hill to the high country at Pine. Upon Distance traveled-262 miles. lunch that Mary Marks had packed in the hamper van­ reaching Pine you should phone Tonto Natural Bridge SEVENTH DAY: The route leads back on State 86 to ished a long time ago, and a few hours in the woods Lodge to determine if the lodge is open and receiving Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Here you will at 9,000 feet can make a guy powerful hungry! Don't guests. When Hully and I got to the lodge we were met find one of the world's finest assortment of cactus, in­ forget to try the home made bread. If I were a poet there by Pete Anderson, a most genial host. We were the only cluding the unusual organ pipe variety found only at would now be a sonnet or two dealing with that particu­ guests and Pete apologetically asked us to join him in a this spot within the United States. Rugged mountains lar subject. Distance traveled-137 miles. modest supper consisting of venison with all of the trim­ form impressive backdrops for the stands of cactus, many THIRD DAY: This day's travel follows the Forest Serv­ mings, including what surely must be the world's most of which bloom during April. This is ·an almost perfect ice road westward from Show Low along the Mogollon delicious preserved apricots and peaches, grown in area for desert photography, and is also one of those Rim. Here is a land of vast distances and tremendous orchards just outside the kitchen window. Distance places that is hard to leave. The return trip leads through views, all set off by more of autumn's golden hue. First, traveled-8 5 miles. Gila Bend, and then west on U.S. So to Yuma. Distance there is a stop at a fire lookout, where Jack Smith lets FOURTH DAY: At breakfast Pete was disappointed to traveled-2 30 miles to Yuma. visitors come up to see the scenery and visit for awhile. learn that Hully and I could handle only four eggs apiece. TRIP NUMBER 2 Shortly after this spot the road starts hugging the very It seems that the hens keep laying as though the lodge AN ARIZONA AUTUMN edge of the rim. There were so many stops for pictures were full of guests. Pete said that he was once marooned Start: Show Low that sunset found us still on the rim road. There are no at the lodge by a storm, and by the time help arrived End: St. George, Utah service stations or hot dog stands up in that neck of the from the outside world nearly a thousand eggs were on Distance: 843 miles woods. While we could have camped out, we had no food hand! Our steep climb out of the canyon occupied by Time: 6 days with us, so we went on into Flagstaff. Distance traveled- the lodge was made in a light drizzle which stopped as Season: Autumn (October) 170 miles. soon as the top was reached. The road from Pine east­ FIRST DAY: There's only one place to start a trip like FOURTH DAY: This day started early with a trip south ward along the base of the Mogollon Rim led through this, and that is right in front of the fireplace at Paint to Lake Mary and Mormon Lake, and then up the moun­ beautiful pine forests still glistening after the shower. Pony Lodge, Show Low, Arizona. Plan to arrive early tain to the top of Schnebly Hill, overlooking Oak Creek Old board road near Yuma The route swings back t,o Payson and then winds down in the afternoon so that you can get acquainted with Canyon. After going down Schnebly Hill a few pictures into Tonto Basin and Roosevelt Lake. Beyond Roosevelt your hosts, Mary and Eric Marks, before sitting down were made in the canyon, where autumn's touch was not Dam the rugged grandeur of the Apache Trail discloses to that great, big dinner. Be sure you have reservations, yet evident. Then the route led north again to Flagstaff, trip in 1952 the winter rains had been very good and incomparable scenery. The road passes the Superstition for Paint Pony can accommodate only a handful of east and north to Sunset Crater National Monument, and the area around Lake Mead was a solid carpet of yellow Mountains, and finally leads to Phoenix. Fourth night's guests. Those few lucky people never had it so good! and purple. This floral display continued into Arizona stop-Phoenix. Distance traveled-184 miles. While Eric is regaling the rest of the people with a few for a distance of about ten miles along U.S. 93. Twenty­ FIFTH DAY: After a quick glance at the tall buildings, of his choice yarns, such as the story of Hollywood's Deserted mine five miles from the dam a dirt road turns off to the ghost take U.S. So east and south to Tucson and Benson, State visit to the Salt River Gorge, you can go upstairs and town of White Hills, five miles from the highway. This 86 northeast to Willcox Dry Lake, and then U.S. 666 load film holders in Eric's bathroom, which is the only is a ghost town in the truest sense. Here there are no south past Cochise Stronghold to the Chiricahua Na­ light-tight room in the house. You have heard of hosts guides, no curios for sale. Nothing remains to mark the tional Monument turnoff, which is State 181. This is big who gladly part with the shirts off their respective spot where once a town of 3,000 flourished except a few country which can look mighty lonely on a dark and backs, but Eric Marks does far more. He turns over his weathered shacks and the pockmarked hills behind the windy night. There is a real haven at the end of this private bathroom to photographers who fidget and curse camp. Thirty-eight miles from the dam another dirt trail, however. It is called Silver Spur Ranch, and Roy for hours as they struggle with balky film holders in road leaves the highway and winds through Arizona's and Ruth Kent are the charming hosts. Located within the darkness.WARNING: watch the low ceilings. Hully finest Joshua tree forest and past dizzy views of Lake the boundaries of Chiricahua National Monument, Silver Burroughs and I are fairly tall, but Bob Fyfe, the third Mead, far below, until it descends the sand wash which Spur offers good beds, wonderful chow, and the finest in member of our party, is about 6'6" and he had a particu­ leads to Pierce Ferry on the edge of Lake Mead: The western hospitality. If you arrive early enough, take a larly rough time. Eric claims that he carries "bump Grand Wash Cliffs to the east mark the end of the Grand run up to the rock formations and shoot a few of the insurance." Canyon and the Colorado Plateau. The road leading jumbled masses that bear such names as Punch and Judy SECOND DAY: The trick is to hit the road at dawn, back to Kingman skirts Red Lake (dry) as it traverses and Donald Duck. Distance traveled-2 54 miles. which is about 6:oo A.M. in early October. The evening the broad expanse of Hualpai Valley. First night's stop SIXTH DAY: Take another look at the rock formations before Mary Marks will have insisted that she should get -Kingman. Distance traveled-182 miles. and, if you really feel full of pep, climb Sugar Loaf up and fix breakfast. The script requires that you stoutly SECOND DAY: Start the day with a quick run up to JVIountain for the best view of the remarkable mountain refuse to hear of such an outrage, and she will suddenly the pines at Hualpai Mountain Park, just 14 miles from formation called Cochise Head. Return to State 86 at agree. So, there you are in the kitchen at 5: 30, rummag­ Kingman. There might still be some snow on the peaks, \Nillcox via the interesting adobe town of Dos Cabezas. ing around for the Wheaties and warming up the coffee. and the mountains will be green and fresh. Upon return­ Go back through Tucson and then continue west, still This is a vacation? Things look brighter with the rising ing to U.S. 66, head eastward across the plateau to. the on State 86, past the legendary Baboquivari Mountains sun, however, as you head for McNary and the White pines at Williams and Flagstaff, and then south on U.S. and beyond them to the copper mining town of Ajo. Mountains. McNary is home of the nation's largest yellow 89 Alternate to famous Oak Creek Canyon. Before sun­ You may be lucky enough to see, as we did, the rarest pine sawmill, and it is a great sight. The huge piles of set there should be time for a few shots of the red cliffs, of all sunsets over the Baboquivaris as the sun disappeared logs on the edge of the pond assure a steady supply of blue waters of the creek, and fields of yellow flowers. behind immense sheets of red rain. (You will have to wood for the long winter ahead, and should make good Second night's stop-Sedona. Distance traveled-2 2 2 miles. take my word for this one-a grandiose case of buck pictures. Past McNary a beautiful new highway winds THIRD DAY: Try exploring some parts of Oak Creek fever set in and no pictures were obtained.) There are upward into the mountains, where aspen start to appear Canyon that are reached by the red dirt side roads- several excellent restaurants at Ajo specializing in Mexi- in their brightest dress. The road south to Big Lake passes

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then almost straight north to Marble Canyon and the the right road-local inquiry is a good idea. It's no boule­ crossing of the Colorado River. The road turns west to vard, but careful driving will eventually bring you to the Jacob Lake, and finally south to Kaibab Lodge on the real end of the trail-Toroweap Point. After a full day way to the Grand Canyon's North Rim. Fourth day's like this, spread out your bedroll, but not too close to stop-Kaibab Lodge, elevation 8,900 feet (mighty chilly!). the edge-it's a long way down! Distance traveled-167 Distance traveled-280 miles. miles. FIFTH DAY: An early start enables the photographer to SIXTH DAY: The experience of standing at Toroweap greet the sunrise from Bright Angel Point on the North Point is quite hard to describe. I guess it can best be Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is quite a photographic termed a stunning experience, since no previous view problem, and I wish I had a month or two at the Canyon of the Grand Canyon can quite prepare one for Toro­ to try to figure it out. The road eastward to Point Im­ weap. Most people view the Canyon at spots where it is perial passes through some majestic portions of the Kaibab very wide and falls away from the viewer in a series of Forest, and new vistas of the Canyon appear from time steps until the Inner Gorge and the river are seen at the to time through the trees. From here the route is retraced very bottom. At T oroweap Point, however, the Canyon northward to Jacob Lake and then northwest to Fredonia. is very narrow and tremendously deep. As you look over Fill up gas tank and bread basket here, for it is the jump­ the edge there are no ledges or steps-the view is straight ing off place for the wildest part of the state-the Arizona down to the river below. It is a rather frightening mo­ Strip country of northern Mohave County. Just west of ment, and one that has been shared by few people. The Fredonia is Ship Rock, which really looks like a large road out goes over the mountain through the town of ocean liner sailing along through the sea. A few miles Mt. TrunbulL north past Wolf Hole, and then out to the further west is Pipe Spring National Monument, a tribute highway at St. George, Utah. From here the traveler to the fortitude of the people who settled that part of the has his choice of going to nearby Zion and Bryce Canyon country. From here the road heads southwest towards National Parks or southwest to Las Vegas, Nevada. Dis­ Grana" Canyon National Monument. Be sure to get on tance traveled to St. George__.:89 miles. On the Colorado River PAG E THIRTY • ARIZO N A HIGHWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 hands of Confederates. The war blazed on and all troops Apache had endeavored to take his place many times­ were withdrawn to the battlefields of the east. The one partner and all his neighbors have been murdered, Apache descended in full force and the little outposts and last summer his boy was killed within gun-shot of of the Southwest struggled, gasped and died. his door. Instead of being frightened or discouraged by With the signing of the peace, the military head­ these bold and numerous attacks he seems only more quarters in Arizona moved from Prescott to Tucson. determined to stand his ground and take his chances. The Camp Crittendon was rebuilt near the site of old Fort Indians have learned to their sorrow that in him they Buchanan. People slowly began to come back. Kitchen have no insignificant foe. He never travels the same road strapped on his si x shooters and returned with new hope, twice, and he always sleeps with one eye open, therefore ~ - ·to settle down once again. This time at Potrero, near ambushes do not win on him worth a cent. He has been Calabasas. He raised corn, potatoes and cabbage. He ac­ on the picket line now for over fourteen y ears and he quired a herd of swine and began supplying lard, bacon, has buried nearly all of his own acquaintances and should ham and produce to the settlements. hi s luck continue he may be truly called the first and But it was not easy. In the W E EKLY ARIZONI AN of Jan. last of Arizona's pioneers." 31, 1869, w e read that "News has just been brought here His luck did last. He early learned, when forced out of the loss by Mr. Peter Kitchen, on the Potrero, of all of the cattle business by the Indians, that it was more of his stock by these red d--ls.", for on January 18, 1869, profitable to feed corn to hogs to make bacon and lard, Indians captured Kitchen's entire herd, some 50 cattle and than to sell it for any whatsoever price he could get. The horses and killed 200 sheep near Tubae. result was, as clippings tell, "he always has on hand a few Pete pulled in his belt another notch and built him­ old Mexican dollars, while most of his neighbors who self a stronghold. A sentry paced its roof and his hands depend on the sale of grain are a few short all the time." plowed and worked with loaded guns by their side. Yet His lard and bacon and hams became known to all settle­ June 17 , 18 71, the AR IZON A CITIZE N reports "Another mur­ ments, even to Silver City and Fort Bayard. For seventeen RANCH AND MUSEUM der by Indians was perpetrated on the upper Santa Cruz. years he held out, never once dislodged. This time the victim was a y oung son, about r I years old, vVith the coming of the railroad in the ear ly So's, he BY ROANNA H. WINSOR of Peter Kitchen. He was shot on the 8th inst. about sold his ranch for a sum reputed to be anywhere from 200 yards from his residence. Mr. Kitchen sent in a re­ $30,000 ( considerable in those days) to $60,000, and built quest for ten soldier to stay with him until his crops are himself a home in Tucson. But Pete the fearless was also harvested, coupled with the assurance that, if this were Pete the convivial, and Pete the generous. By the time he was seventy-two he himself said he was "living on the PHOTOGRAPHS BY WESTERN WAYS granted him, he would never again ask mi litary assistance in Arizona. Here is one of the boldest and truest friends interest of what I owe." DRAWINGS BY TED DE GRAZIA of the Territory discouraged. It is no wonder." When the famous Pete Kitchen died in , 895 at the But Pete was not discouraged. A month later almost age of seventy-seven, a three-year-old boy was listening to the day, "Peter Kitchen was in town this week. He to his father romancing about the early west. This little ol. Gil Procter slowly pulled himself up most interesting southwest and Spanish relics to be found. reports a fine harvest of barley on the upper Santa Cruz. boy today is Col. Gil Procter. Early in his boyhood Proc­ out of his chair to his full six feet four. Forty years or so, before Col. Procter was born, He had more than twenty acres of barley which yielded ter developed a love of antiquities, especially of the Speaking slowly with a slight drawl, Peter Kitchen drifted into Tucson from the gold fields at the rate of 4,000 pounds or seventy bushel to the acre. Southwest. He says of himself, "I've always been a junk enthusiasm brightening his blue eyes, he of California. "Pete" as he was called by everyone who This was on the rich bottom land reclaimed by drainage. man." He trudged with his father to Indian ruins, gather­ mused, "Ever since I was five I wanted knew him, was born back east and raised in the Daniel Other land produces from that quantity to something like ing arrowheads and pottery. a w hite adobe house and a black horse." Boone country of Kentucky and Tennessee. Pioneering less than 30 bu. to the acre. He has planted some 70 acres His father, an Englishman, settled in California in It's been more than fifty-seven years was in his blood. 111. corn. " 1885, and Gil and his brother Jim grew up in an atmos­ since that day. H e has traveled in many parts of the In his early twenties he left home, joined the army In the yellowing newspapers we read of his deter­ phere of horses and sport. His father was one of the world, he's seen a lot of action, and had a number of black and served in the Mexican War. Later, after Jiving in mination. ARIZON A CITIZEN ... June 6, I 87 2 "Personal ... organizers of the first polo team west of the JVIississippi. horses- now the w hite adobe house is a reality along with Texas for a short while, he drifted to Arkansas and finally Our friend Pete Kitchen was in town this week from Col. Procter's fori11ative school years centered around his Pete Kitchen Ranch and Museum project. to Ft. Leavenworth, Kansas. Thence he set out with the Potrero. He reports that his crops are excellent. He has sports. Through his interest in tennis he met Miss Joan Busy U .S. Highway 89 bisects the old Pete Kitchen Mounted Rifles, as wagon master, headed for Oregon. about 20 acres of potatoes planted and has made this y ear McCall, a tennis champion of California, who is now 1\!Irs. Ranch lands 57 miles south of Tucson, Arizona. Pete's He left the army at Ft. Vancouver on the Columbia River about 14,000 pounds of No. 1 bacon and hams which Gil Procter, hostess at the famed Pete Kitchen ranch. stronghold, w hich is now the museum cannot be·seen from and stayed in Oregon until 1850 when he went to San he has sold at an average of . 35 per pound. A~so 5,ooo Procter's first visit to the border area that is now this new high-speed highway unless you know exactly Francisco. Four years later he was in the wild Arizona pounds of lard sold at the same price. Mr. Kitchen's farm his home was in 1916 when he served with the Seventh w hen and w here to look. It stands to the east, partly hid­ region. is located near the Sonora line, and at one of the most Infantry, California National Guard, in the da ys of den by cottonwoods, about 200 yards from the old road The lush green of the fertile Santa Cruz Valley, and exposed points for Apache depredations in Arizona. The Pancho Vil la. It was then began his dream to acquire the " ·hich Pete called "the road from Tucson, Tubae, Tuma­ the abundance of wild game intrigued him. Now in his cacori, To Hell." But 1 3 miles south of Tumacacori Na­ early thirties this hardy little pioneer settled down to tional Monument or 5 miles north of Nogales, Arizona, carve out a home for himself on this last frontier. Pete Kitchen, Gil Procter, Mrs. Procter where the foothills nudge close to the highway is the He lived briefly at Canoa. He built his first house and entrance road and a sign. A graded lane leads a short started stock raising. These were the days of the mining di stance through the rolling farmland to the museum, boom at Tubae, and the early western outposts of the which is open to the public for a small fee ( 50¢) every army-Fort Buchanan and Fort Breckenridge. Kitchen day from ten to fi ve o'clock except Mondays. secured a government contract to supply beef to the W hen you turn in at the Pete Kitchen sign and curve troops in Arizona. But back east trouble brewed. On around a low hill, in the distance is the "white adobe April 12, 1861, the first shot of the Civil War was fired. house" w hich is now Procter's home. It adjoins the The Butterfield Stage was discontinued through the original sixty foot, twenty-four inch walled Pete Kitchen Southwest. Fort Buchanan was burned and Union troops stronghol d w hich is now a museum, housing some of the destroyed suppli es to keep them from falling into the

P AGE THIRTY-TWO • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 View of ranch home today Col. Procter with neighbor

Pete Kitchen ranch. He listened to the tales of the early VE day Procter and his son Gil celebrated the vic­ toric information. The fame of the restoration of Kitch­ Does this tax your belief? Well, he is right. You can read frontier days from the old timers who still remembered tory at Hitler's hideout at Berchtesgaden where the en's stronghold spread and the traveling public could not it in pioneer files. Kitchen. But dreams are dreams and Procter's life was Colonel picked up a lock blown from Hitler's safe and be withheld. Walk down the slope to the bubbling swirling water­ still before him. His was destined to be a soldier's life of his son acquired a corner of the fireplace mantle. These In October, 1954, the Procters opened the museum. fall pouring out from 1200 to 1500 gallons a minute-the army post to army post, carrying him to the far corners are today in the museum. Col. Procter retired from the Viewing it was still by private appointment. The visitors' only one of its kind in this part of Arizona, and sit in of the world. army in 1946 and he and Mrs. Procter came to his "dream register grew and grew. Early in 1956 the Procters gave meditation. Perhaps if you look around you will find vVorld War I found the Procters at San Diego, Cali­ home" and set up residence. With them they brought up and put up a directional sign. For the first four months prehistoric arrowheads. This was an oasis for travelers fornia. Now began their travels from Georgia to Hawaii. their many possessions and antiquities which the "junk of last year 92 5 interested visitors had been to Pete Kitch­ long before the Spanish with their clanking armor and the By 1929 Lt. Procter asked to be transferred to Nogales man" had been collecting all his life. en's ranch and museum. quiet Jesuits in their long black . robes passed by. and he was returned there as Intelligence Officer with the The Procters added on to the old Pete Kitchen A visit to the Procter's is a rare treat. The original Or step into the museum and gaze with wonder at 25th Infantry. He tried now in earnest for the Pete Kitch­ stronghold and built themselves a "white adobe house." Kitchen fields of "rich reclaimed bottom land" still wave the treasures the Procters have collected, relics of Indian en ranch but it was not for sa le. He bought the Jim Hath­ They scoured the neighboring countryside for stories with green fields of barley, oats and corn. Pete Kitchen's days, handwritten Jesuit documents, three bronze Moor­ away ranch near it. Not until thirteen years later could and relics. The long nurtured hobby became an avoca­ original well supplies water for the household. Col. Proc­ ish stirrups brought by the Conquistadores. On the walls he add the Kitchen ranch to his holdings. Tours of duty tion. The Procters followed clue after clue, gathering ter will stand with you in the doorway of the stronghold are fabulous Indian blankets, religious paintings and an again carried the Procters from Wyoming to Equador, Southwestern lore. Friends came to see them and saw and point to a rock ( today painted white for better vis­ original Apache medicine shirt, of which Col. Procter where World War II caught up with them. the little museum. They told others. Soon the Procters ibility) and say, "You see that rock up there on the hill? will tell you there are only known to be five in existence, Stranger than fiction Procter, on his return, was se nt had to put up a sign which read "No Trespassing." Mean­ vVell, one day Pete was looking out of his stronghold and one of which is in the Smithsonian Institution. to Nogales for a brief three month period to report on while Procter located Pete Kitchen's two living neices. saw something move up there that didn't wear a hat. He But above all don't make this an in-and-out again stop conditions on the border. The day he arrived he heard They showed him where Pete Kitchen's own "boot-hill" took aim and fired. He heard a bloodcurdling yell and or you'll be sorry. Here is a visit to the "Old West" that the Pete Kitchen ranch was for sale and he bought it. cemetery had been located, and contributed valuable his- then silence, Kitchen had scored a bull's eye at 500 yards." will intrigue you for a whole day.

Interior, museznn Stream through ranch Anza carried news of his journey to Mexico City. tain men, especially when no authority was found behind As a result, the early autumn of 1775 found a great cara­ it. They drifted into the valley of the Rio Grande, the van organizing at Tubae. About 250 colonists with hun­ Colorado, the Gila, finding here and there a Spanish set­ dreds of head of livestock gathered in the lonely Santa tlement. Sometimes they would be greeted with suspicion Cruz Valley outpost. There they prepared for the march but just as often it would be with friendship. to California where they were to settle on a great bay. The mountain men heralded the approach of the The expedition departed in October and was led to its nation of their birth. They themselves didq't care much destination by Anza. The bay-side settlement established on whose land they traveled. But they took back to the later became known as San Francisco. American outposts many tales of the vast dry and moun­ The removal of the presidia was a matter of grave tainous but river-fed lands of the southwest. These lands concern to Tubae, for it left the upper Santa Cruz Val­ were said to belong to Mexico, but only the Apaches ley exposed to Apache raids. Petitions begging protection appeared to exercise any control over them. Certainly, were sent Mexico City. Finally, after several fearful years, it was reasoned, this territory was bound to become part a garrison of Pima Indians trained as soldiers was pro­ of the United States. vided. Tubae then settled down to several decades of Most of it soon did when the Mexican War brought rela~iv~ly peaceful existence. But its history was barely the southwest into American hands. All of Arizona north begmnmg. of the Gila was part of the prize. Tubae remained under The Mexican Revolution caused Spanish officials to Mexican control until the completion of the Gadsden lose interest in risking their lives to protect the frontier Purchase in 1854. It also remained in a vulnerable position against Indians. By the mid-1820's, Pimeria Alta was left with regard to the Apaches. to defend itself. The new Mexican government, unstable Nevertheless, when the great migrations to Califor­ as it was, had no time to heed the troubles of scattered nia began in 1849, T ubac achieved a new breath of life. desert settlements 1500 miles to the north. Many overland pioneers followed a southern trail util­ Close at hand, however, were the Apaches who paid izing the Rio Grande and Gila River Valleys, crossing TUBAC a great deal of attention to the white man's activities. between the rivers via Guadalupe Pass in extreme south­ Lone prospectors or ranchers were driven to the towns. western New Mexico and the Santa Cruz Vallev. Tubae LITTLE TOWN WITH A BIG HISTORY Traders were swept from the trails. Soon Tubae and was the first town encountered on this route .,after the Tucson were the only settlements left in Arizona, and long dry haul over the continental divide. BY WILLIAM A. BARDSLEY so they continued to be during the remaining years of In October 1849, a wagon train from Missouri "WESTERN WAYS PHOTOS BY DAVID CHURCH official but non-existent Mexican rule. approached Tubae, looking forward to its arrival there Sometimes in these years, though, another type of and a stop of several days. There were wagons to be on mis hijos--my sons." These were the scene, has opened a gallery and plans to make his home man besides the Apache wandered in from the hills. Tall tepaired, supplies to be obtained, oxen, cattle and horses proud words of Mrs. Jim Lowe, aged in Tubae. Last summer brought the opening of several and bearded, he was the North American mountain man. t? be turned out for feed and rest in the fields along the Tubae resident, as she pointed at the pic­ craft shops, reconstruction of the central plaza, and the Ostensibly he was earning a living by trapping. But prob­ nver. tures of three uniformed boys which hung beginning of what the developers hope is a great influx ably more often than not he simply sought to lead a won­ Nearing the settlement, however, the emigrants saw on the wall of her adobe home in Arizona's of tourists. Perhaps Tubae is not to disappear from the drous life of freedom and adventure in advance of the no people nor animals. No smoke arose from the outdoor first settlement. modern road map. frontier which trailed him across the continent. ovens. No white Mexican wash fluttered in the breeze. "None of them live in Tubae now. One Tubac's history as a white settlement goes back An international boundary meant nothing to moun- Sensing something wrong, the train approached cautious- is in Tucson, another in Texas, another in more than 200 years. Spanish authorities in 17 52 estab­ California. My other sons and daughters-they are all gone lished a presidia-a soldier occupied fort-on the site of too." a Pima Indian village there. It was the first such perma­ Tubae country So it is that Tubae, once Arizona's largest town and nent military base in what is now Arizona. To the pre­ rival of Tucson until the 187o's-a town that re-estab­ sidia came the wives and children of soldiers along with lished itself four times after massacre or forced evacua­ the families of other frontiersmen attracted to the fresh tion in the Indian wars-faces another crisis in its exist­ Santa Cruz Valley by its agricultural and mining possi­ ence. The hamlet's problem today is no longer such a bilities and the protection offered by the new garrison. violent one. It is the difficulty faced by small country But the little settlement was to face its first major crisis towns all over America-the young people are moving to in less than twenty-five years. With the frontier pushing the city in search of higher wages and more exciting life. northward, the presidia was transferred to Tucson in Bound by strong family ties inherited from their 1776. Mexican forbears, the young people of Tubae used to Shortly before this removal, however, Tubae was stay home. But the sons from many families went off to the scene of two notable events. Juan Bautista de Anza, w·orld War II and the Korean conflict. They saw much a vigorous frontiersman born and raised on the deserts of the world before returning to the small town nestled of northern New Spain, was commander of the presidia. between the desert hills. Tubae was home-but there Anza long dreamed of claiming a place for Pimeria Alta, wasn't much to do. So the young men went away to as his Sonoran homeland was then called, by making it Tucson or Nogales or places more distant. a trade route between New Spain and the isolated Cali­ Tubac's population dwindled rapidly. Possibly it fornia settlements. would be in danger of dying out altogether today were Starting from Tubae in January 1774, Anza led a it not for the prospect of a new type of development. thirty-four man party across the desert, following closely Located just off the busy Tucson-Nogales highway, the route that later became El Camino del Diablo-The which connects with Mexico's West Coast highway, Devil's Highway-to the Colorado River. He CI"'Ssed Tubae may soon bear the title of a southwestern arts and the Colorado with the aid of the Yuma Indians and suc­ crafts center. cessfully proceeded to Mission San Gabriel, completing Ross Stefan, well-known illustrator of the western the first overland expedition to California.

PAGE THIRTY-SIX • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 lv. The truth soon became plainly visible. Gray charred less appendages in camp," said Poston. "They could keep 1:uins lay on all sides. The A paches had struck, killing all house, cook some dainty dishes, wash clothes, sew, dance, inhabitants who had not fl ed, firing anything that would and sing. Moreover, they were expert at cards, and di­ burn and driving off the livestock. The Missourians bur­ vested many a miner of his week's wages over a game of ied the dead and stopped a few days anyway. Ther~ they monte. moved on to tell the world another tale from the history "We had no law but love and no occupation but of the Apaches' defense of their ancient homeland. labor. No government, no taxes, no public debt, no poli­ Tubae was still deserted in 1854 when Charles Poston tics . .. " and H erman Ehrenberg arrived there. Poston was a busi­ "Tubae is a paradise compared with Tucson ... ," ness man-adventurer who probably made his biggest mark wrote Phocian Way, a gentleman who came to Tubae as in history as Arizona's first publicity agent. Ehrenberg agent of the Santa Rita Mining Company in r 8 58. was a minino- engineer. The two men lived in Tubac's The Civil War, however, dealt a death blow to empty hous~s while exploring old Spanish mines and T ubac's goiden age. Upon the start of the conflict, fed­ prospecting for new mineral resources. Their search eral troops were ordered to return east. W atching the proved successful and Poston organized the Sonora Ex­ soldiers depart, the Apaches thought they finally had ploring & Mining Company with headguarters at Tubae defeated the white man and driven him from the land. to operate the rich silver mines they discovered. Most residents left Tubae as soon as the army Traders and manual laborers began to pour in from marched out of Arizona in r 86 r. However, about thirty Mexico, mining officials and skilled laborers from the decided to remain. This group soon found itself be­ United States. Other mines opened. Before long a thou­ sieged by more than two hundred Apaches and h~d to sand or more people lived in or near Tubae. It soon send to Tucson for assistance. Re-enforcements qmckly Interior view of Tubae Inn Reminder of' Tubac's yesterday ranked as Arizona's principal town. Improvements fol­ arrived to drive off the Indians. They also frightened lowed. The Weekly A rizo77ian, first newspaper published away seventy-five Sonoran bandits w ho, upon hearing in the state, appeared in r 8 59. A branch line of the But­ that· the American government had broken up, ap­ Ross Stefan wanders about Tubae and says that he terfield Overland Stage made a weekly run from Tucson. proached from the south. But the situation was hopeless. mid-r 88o's brought on by the final Apache uprisings led by Geronimo. This flight took away for good the sees beauty wherever he looks. Ross's successful career Poston, as manager of Tubac's leading business con­ Author-traveler J. Ross Brow ne visited Tubae in town's doctor and hotel owner. as a painter would indicate that he knows of what he talks cern, was looked upon as an all-powerful father by most r 864 with Charles Poston and described the scene in his The coming of a branch line railroad from Tucson and that, given the opportunity, he can arrange things of the Mexican population, a role he evidently accepted book, Adventures in the Apache Couutry: " ... harassed to Nogales brought some light for the future. But any properly in Tubae so that the attractiveness can be made with gusto. He acted as mayor, justice of the peace and on both sides by Apaches and l\.1 exicans, and without possibility of development as a commercial center was visible to the visitor. He should have a long future to resident priest, all under commission as a deputy clerk of hope of future protection, the inhabitants of Tubae for lost with the rapid growth of Tucson and Nogales. Even work on his project. Though known as an artist for Dona Ana County, New Mexico, to which Tubae then the last time abandoned the tow n; and thus it has re­ the main highway which curved into the center of Tubae almost a decade, he is now only twenty-two. belonged. mained ever since, a melancholy spectacle of ruin and until 1930 was straightened in that year to bypass the On the bulletin board in his gallery, situated across "Tubae became a sort of Gretna Green for runaway deso lation." town. the street from the Tubae church, Ross has posted a news­ couples from Sonora," Poston ·wrote in the Prescott Miner Most of the evacuees went only to Tucson, how­ Finally came World War II and the consequent de­ paper clipping telling .of the thirty-three per cent in­ in r 87 5, "as the priest there charged them twenty-five ever, so almost immediately upon the conclusion of hos­ parture of the younger generation. What could keep the crease in traffic during the past year between Tucson and dollars, and the Alcalde of Tubae [Poston] tied the knot tilities in the east they were able to return to Tubae. little town with the big history from disappearing along Nogales. Much of this increase is contributed _by visit?rs gratis, and gave them a treat besides." Within a short time the little Santa Cruz settlement had with its venerable older generation, the older members to Arizona who already have nearby attractions to 111- But difficulties arose. Poston's ceremonies were rec­ regained a large part of its old population. of which are still a living bridge between pioneer days spect in the Tumacacori Mission and the Pete Kitchen ognized by the civil government. A visiting vicar apos­ The mines, however, did not prosper again. The and the atomic era:i Museum. Certainly the restoration of the state's oldest tolic, however, announced to the community that they old operators lost too much upon the outbreak of the Artist Dale Nichols came to Tubae in 1948 and town planned by its youngest artist should fit well on were not recognized by the Church. Many citizens were war and new ones failed to appear. Poston was busy with established a school of art. But not even Veterans' Ad­ the schedule of those travelers who find time to stop at terrified to learn they were living in mortal sin. Poston other matters-representing the newly organized territory ministration approval ,vhich provided him with students the upper Santa Cruz Valley's early mission and its saved the day by paying the ·worried husbands enough of Arizona in Congress. Nevertheless, former residents on the GI Bill brought success. Nichols closed his school. famous fortified ranch. money to purchase Church sanctions for their question­ proceeded to develop a considerable agricultural com­ able marriages. This solution is said to have cost the munity. Briefly the area looked to have a bright future. mining company almost a thousand dollars. But, by the end of the decade, the inhabitants were learn­ Interior of Ross Stefan's Tubae gallery With silver bullion proving somewhat unwieldy as ing that the American government, even in peace time, currency, Poston also printed paper money for his was little better prepared to provide adequate protection commm1ity. Small pasteboard bills, known as boletas, against the Apaches than had been the Mexican. were paid to his company's employees. They circulated Five times the Apaches raided Tubae in January throughout the Tubae trading area. For the convenience r 869, killing or stealing horses and livestock, a pattern of the illiterate Mexican laborers, the boletas were im­ they followed all that year and the next. Citizens found orinted with different animals to represent various sums the tax assessor charging them for animals that almost ' . of money from twelve and a half cents to ten dollars. invariably were gone by the time the tax collector came They were redeemable in silver at the company office. around. And the collector still insisted on being paid. ·Poston wrote that no one ,vas lonely at Tubae Early in 187 1, the last remaining Tubae families de­ because all w ere engaged in diverting worthwhile labor. parted for Tucson. Nor was anyone hungry. The table ,vas well set with This desertion lasted five years. Some of the per­ native game, vegetables from an irrigated garden and sistent old timers returned again in 1876, but it was not a French w ines obtained through Guaymas. complete resettlement such as had occurred in 1865. More­ Dozens of graceful Sonoran senoritas flocked into over, most of the settlers with foresight and business the mining town as a result of northern Mexi co's loss of ability failed to come back this time. male population through civil wars and migration. However, people stayed and farmed. They even "The Mexican women were not by any means use- came back again after another partial evacuation in the

PAGE T HIRTY-EIGHT • AR IZONA HIGffWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957 SANCTUARY Speak softly here: if needs must be: This quiet wood knows only sound Of warbling bird, w ind-rustled tree, And nimble furries stirring round: HOSPITAL IN SHOW LOW: Mono Lake country. We went over Moni­ Mild tones that lift the thought sky-high, . . . The town of Show Low, Arizona tor Pass w here golden aspen again thrilled us . Are swift and blithe: the human voice, One of the best incidents on our trip was owes you a debt of gratitude and the story On w hich too many may rely, l am about to relate may sound like a fairy finding the State Highway Picnic Grounds Here, has scant reason to rejoice- tale to some, but it is true and a very touch­ near The Gap on Highway 89. It was so hot Save that it may be still-and find ing tale of just how wonderful people can be. -no shade anywhere-we were hungry and In harmony so rarelv kno,,.n: Because you print such an interesting mag­ thirsty. When we found that picnic table Something' to urge the searching mind azin e, two people chose Arizona as their va­ under those poplars and the drinking foun­ To ponder well on Nature's own. cation spot in the fall of I 956. Because they tain-all the conveniences, we blessed the were not disappointed in w hat they saw, they State of Arizona for providing this life-sav­ GRACE iVlEREDITH liked Arizona and became more aware of ing place. DESERT WHIRLWINDS it's beauty and looked beyond that beauty Altogether we love Arizona. The roads to sec the needs of a country that was in­ were very well marked. The people were Alone in the desert dust-devils dance creasing in population so fast. Because your friendly. The rocks are fascinating. Another Across the flat heat of a gray expanse magazine (our magazine, l should say) wonderful place we v isited, which we read Of sage-brush, rabbit-brush and prickly-pear taught them to look, they saw a sign in the about in your magazine, is Oak Creek Can­ Where there's no shade to rest in anywhere. White Mountains, just west'liof the Show yon. And Jerome, after reading your article, Alone in the desert, alone in the sun Low town limits, and on that sign they read meant much more to us. Which even covotes and cottontails shun, -site of the Show Low Community Hospital I remarked one day that ARIZONA HIGH­ Dust-devils dan.ce until too tired to stand, - and w hen they returned to their native In- WAYS ought to have a rock issue, and behold, Then limply collapse in a heap of sand. diana, they remembered the sign, and they the day after our safe arrival home, here ELIZABETH -ELLEN LONG remembered that Arizona had been all that came the November number with its glori­ they expected it to be-so they wrote the ous cover and splendid informative articles. FRONTIER TOWN Postmaster of Show Low and asked if they It makes us want to return to Arizona. The streets arc paved, but there is still could help in the erection of the Hospital Joyce E. Lobner The feel of dust and heat of sun. for the community that looked so bustling San Francisco, California Where once the stage coach made its stop and busy and yet so small to tackle such a ... I want to thank you for your won­ Now Greyhound busses start their run, tremendous job as building a hospital. derful November issue. Also vour wonderful And tourists saunter down the walks Their letter was of course answered and highway system. I recently ,~ent on a short Or wait beneath the uxi stand. today the Show Low Community Hospital vacation with four of mv children. We Lean, weathered men collect in groups is richer bv the sum of $500 .00, and a won­ found your highway carn1; sites, pull outs To talk of cattle and of land. derful lert~r complimenting ARIZONA HIGH­ and directions better than in any of the four The highway cuts the town in half WAYS and describing the hardships encoun­ states we visited. And thus divides its very soul. tered by their husband and father in bringing Mrs. Frank Dav Though swank motels have shouldered in, to pass a similar hospital project in their West Los Angeles, California The cowboy still must play his role. town of Martinsville, Indiana. • All of us in Arizona are proud of our road BETTY ISLER So to AmzoNA HIGHWAYS goes our heart­ side park areas and we are bapfJY to report felt thanks for bringing these wonderful peo­ bigger and better ones are being planned. FORSAKEN PUEBLOS ple into Arizona and past our sign. There were 60 in 1953, 140 in 1956. Uncovered to the desert air, Show Low Community Hospital Fund The ruined pueblos sit and stare Julienne Schmidt, Treasurer SAGA OF THE SALT: All day at the wide turquoise sky . Show Low, Arizona . . . Thank you for Harry Vroman's won­ But after dark, when stars are high, • lVe are glad our friends in lndia11a enjoyed derful presentation of the lakes and dams on The creeping shadows walk again tl.ie Arizona we depict in our pages and all the Salt River in your January issue. We As centuries ago, live men success to the people of Sbow Low in their spent several days in the area last winter and Had walked at night on these plateaus hospital project. they were among the most enjoyable of our In pride an alien never knows. visit to your state. We found the scenery GRACE BARKER WILSON ROADSIDE PARK AREAS: and the climate superb. Congratulations to . . . \ "our October number gave us a Mr. Vroman for his fine photographs . PALO VERDE IN SPRING glorious promise of autumn aspen beauty, Homer L. Vinson A verdant maiden w hich was follv realized on our trip to the Detroit, Michigan with spangled hair Grand Canyon, through the Kaibab Forest, • The Salt River along tin Apacbe Trail flings herself on to Bryce Canyon, up to Cedar Breaks, offers some of Arizona's finest scenery. Tbe into a pool where it was hailing on October 2, then to area is a popular year-ro1111d playground for of spendthrift sunlight. Zion Canyon, and home through Beatty and residents of Central Arizona. p ATRICIA BENTON

BACK COVER OPPOSITE PAGE "JET TRAIL-ABOVE FORTIFICATION HILL," by Carlos Elmer. ln my in­ "GREEN FIELDS OF SPRING-ALONG THE BIG fantry days, we used to call this "a target of opportunity." I had my camera and SANDY" by Carlos Elmer. This farm is found along the tripod set up for a picture of Fortification Hill, near Hoover Dam, when an F-86 Big Sandy River, about 50 miles southeast of Kingman. I jet streaked by, leaving his contrail mark in the sky. I quickly switched from the recall from boyhood days the truckloads of delicious corn 6-inch lens to the wide-angle lens, from horizontal to vertical format, and managed and watermelons that came into Kingman from "down on to catch this trail and a part of Fortification Hill before the contrail was dissipated. the Sandy." Travel to that area was quite an adventure in This view of Fortification Hill is obtained from a dirt road marked "Kingman those days, but the area is now being opened up by comple­ Wash" that leaves U.S. 93 about a mile south of Hoover Dam. It's a nice little side tion of U.S. 93 as a great new highway leading from King­ trip of a few miles past the Hill to the lake shore at Kingman Wash. 90 mm. man to Congress Junction and the Salt River Valley Schneider Angulon wide-angle lens, f.16, 1.5th second. Polaroid filter to darken beyond. 90 mm. Schneider Angulon wide-angle lens, f.18, the sky and accentuate the clouds and contrail. 4 x 5 inch Burke & James Press 1.25th second. 4 x 5 inch Burke & James Press Camera, Camera, Ektachrome film. Ektachrome film.

PAGE FORTY • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • FEBRUARY 1957