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Home , Bolgheri, Piombino, Suvereto

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Six of the best wineries to visit

H Tenuta Argentiera, H Petra, Close to the sea, with great views. Swiss architect Mario Botta designed Mainly reds: Argentiera Bolgheri this winery, which rises from Val di Superiore is the definitive style, while Cornia towards the metalliferous hills. the Giorgio Bartholomauss The owners have done extensive clonal shows the area’s remarkable vocation research and the results are admirable. for this variety. www.argentiera.eu Look out for Petra, a Merlot-Cabernet, and Quercegobbe, a pure Merlot. H Gualdo del Re, Suvereto www.petrawine.it Nico Rossi and Maria Teresa Cabella run their 45ha with enthusiasm and H Poggiorosso, dedication. Their 100% Cabernet Val di Cornia- Above: picturesque pine trees line golden, sandy beaches Sauvignon, Federico Primo, was the A beautifully tended estate near the at the Gulf of , between and San first wine to draw people’s attention, Baratti-Populonia archaeological park. The Decanter travel guide to Vincenzo. The Etruscan coast boasts one of the finest while the intense l’Rennero Merlot is The Veive Viognier has fine depth and climates in all of the Mediterranean, as well as ancient superb. www.gualdodelre.it concentration given the youth of the ruins and very modern wines vines. www.tenutapoggiorosso.it H La Bulichella, Suvereto A pioneer of organic production in H San Giusto di Bonti, Etruscan Riviera, Suvereto, this 36ha estate was Val di Cornia-Piombino instrumental in achieving DOCG A century-old property with steep recognition for the region. There’s an vineyards and sea views. Try the outstanding Syrah, Hide, and a tiny Sangiovese and an excellent production of Aleatico (hungry wild , which is part barrique- Fact file Luciana Lynch explores a stretch century. An hour’s drive south of Pisa, some 210 beaches, some stretches still wild and undeveloped, boars permitting). www.bulichella.it aged. +39 (0)565 41198 Bolgheri: 1,200ha of the Maremma coast where kilometres north of and less than 160km others with popular resorts at , Suvereto: 400ha from , it feels and looks very different from and San Vincenzo, offering accomodation from Val di Cornia: 300ha SuperTuscans rub shoulders with the gently sculpted Tuscan heartland. Its location excellent campsites to six-star luxury resorts. The Common red grapes: Etruscan remains. Dodge the makes it ideal for day trips to Siena, San Gimignano whole area has a network of wine roads. , Giglio and the whole archipelago. How to get there and Montalcino, or to catch a ferry to . And yet Don’t miss Piazza Bovio, a large terrace built above By plane to Pisa, then an , steelworks and catch the sunset , Merlot, there’s much on offer within its boundaries. Castles, beaches… and Leonardo a huge rocky outcrop overlooking Elba, which gives hour’s drive to the Sangiovese, Syrah, Here the Etruscan coast stretches 48km north to A hidden gem, too, for inquisitive travellers, is the impression of being on a vast, open ship. And Etruscan Riviera Aleatico, Fofluns, Etruscan deity of wine, would be south on either side of the SS1 Aurelia, the Roman Piombino, best known as the gateway to Elba and for keep that camera handy: the sunsets are awesome. By train from Pisa Airport Common white grapes: pleased to see how viticulture has evolved in the highway linking Rome to France. It takes in its steelworks (iron has been extracted and smelted The SS1 traverses the fertile, hot Maremma, with to Grosseto or Vermentino, , stretch of coastal called ‘Riva degli Bolgheri to the north, down to Follonica in the round here since Etruscan times); but venture into its cornucopia of produce. Olive groves link valley Viognier, Etruschi’: the Etruscan Riviera. He’d surely approve south. On one side of the Aurelia rise woods and this medieval harbour town, set below a scrub- to slopes, where vines dominate, giving way to woods of the quality, modern wines made there now which, scrub-covered hills dotted with castles and covered promontory dotted with coves, and you will of chestnut and cork-oak, populated by wild boar in a few decades, have taken the world by storm. stone-built villages such as Castagneto, Suvereto, discover walls and ramparts designed by Leonardo and scented by myrtle, bay and strawberry bush, This maritime zone is part of upper Maremma, Bolgheri, Campiglia, Sassetta. On the other side is da Vinci, a castle, ancient churches, pretty marinas, with wild mushrooms in the undergrowth. The Gulf

Photographs:Stefano Amantini/4Corners. Maps:Maggie Nelson the former marshy land reclaimed in the 19th the coast: many kilometres of sandy, pine-backed and a long promenade with views of Corsica, of Baratti, between Piombino and San Vincenzo, ➢

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Etruscan Riviera Where to stay, shop, eat and relax Spa heaven, handmade jackets and how the Etruscans made wine

Accommodation La Sorgente shops Castello di Bolgheri A new boutique hotel in Piombino Enoteca Tognoni At the heart of this estate is the overlooking the sea and Elba. Gaze at the range of local wines, 15th-century castle which frames There are eight individually maybe taste a few by the glass ‘Food lovers the entrance to the village. Cellar themed rooms (all with a sea view), while enjoying a delicious lunch in visits are possible and agriturismo an infinity pool, fitness centre, this historic setting in Bolgheri – might be (farm-stays) are on offer along the beach access and restaurant you can choose a bottle to be cypress-lined road to San Guido. offering refined yet traditional served with your meal at no extra tempted by a www.castellodibolgheri.eu cuisine based on local ingredients charge. www.enotecatognoni.it of the highest standard. www. rare delicacy: Tombolo Talasso lasorgentepiombino.com Arte e Moda Resort This historic tailor is in the central sea urchin roes’ Poggio All’Agnello street of pretty Castagneto – Florin Country and Beach Cristea handmakes traditional Residential Resort Maremma country-style jackets. Don’t be surprised to come across Mick Jagger or Bryan Ferry, regular customers here, along with the extending south to Castagneto, is the most Above: the Italian Navy’s occasional British or Tuscan aristo. prestigious, and is home to Sassicaia, the very first training ship, Amerigo +39 (0)565 763694 SuperTuscan. Suvereto, in the south, has shown its Vespucci, passes by Piazza potential since the early 1990s – some of the world’s Bovio in Piombino, with Deep pockets are needed here, but Il Barretto best are made here. Val di Cornia, which Elba in the distance for top-class pampering and In the unlikely setting of an encompasses steep vineyards on the Piombino Left: tuck into local thalassotherapy with sea-water espresso bar adjoining a Conad promontory and surrounding communes, is more specialities, such as pools, join the VIP guests at Less than 2km from Baratti and the supermarket in Piombino is this fragmented geographically and less homogeneous cacciucco, a hearty fish stew Castagneto-Carducci, with beach, archaeological site, a vast new small enoteca, with a big selection in quality. accommodation and restaurant. resort with Olympic-sized of local wines, and some from You would expect Sangiovese to feature www.tombolotalasso.it swimming pool, extensive sports further afield. Great espresso, too. prominently here as elsewhere in Tuscany and, to facilities, wellness centre and 202 +39 (0)3391 864 863 some extent, it does. But since change began here in Agriturismo self-contained apartments, with the 1980s, Sangiovese has not been the main La Bulichella restaurant at hand. There’s a activities protagonist, except in Val di Cornia; it was joined, Award-winning accommodation frequent shuttle service to Baratti. Calidario and arguably sidelined, by Cabernets Sauvignon above the winery, in a bucolic www.poggioallagnello.it Combine fun and wellbeing with a offers a long, crescent-shaped golden sandy beach; and Franc (starting with Bolgheri), then Merlot hillside setting in Suvereto. few hours at this Etruscan natural within a short stroll lies a major Etruscan both in Bolgheri and Suvereto; Syrah and others Below: the 15th-century The restaurant serves simple, Restaurants spring in Venturina: hot-water lake, necropolis in the village of Populonia, with its now also feature. The native red Aleatico makes a walls of the Castello frame traditional, local cuisine using the Gualdo del Re thermarium, massage, cosmetic castle, paved streets and superb sea views. dense, luscious, alcoholic sweet red, when the the entrance to the village estate’s own organic produce and The restaurant adjoining the treatments, along with dining The climate, among the best in the Med, makes grapes can be saved from the voracious wild boars of Bolgheri wines. www.bulichella.it winery in Suvereto is highly rated, facilities, accommodation and a this is a virtually year-round destination. Long hot which have acquired a taste for them. with wild boar featuring great pizzeria. www.calidario.it summers are mitigated by sea breezes: the Mistral, Long-established Vermentino is the most notable prominently on the menu. The blowing fast and furious down the Rhône valley, white grape, giving fresh, textured dry wines perfect nearby agriturismo accomodation Museo Archeologico reaches these shores as a refreshing, cooling wind. for seafood and summer drinking; there’s no shortage (with pool) is of the highest The luminosity and the absence of fog and mist are of Trebbiano (aka Ansonica), and Sauvignon Blanc standard and comfort in a the envy of growers from inner areas, with grapes and recently Viognier are gaining attention. peaceful, rural setting. normally ripening two weeks ahead of the interior, Food lovers who appreciate high-quality www.gualdodelre.it and little risk of disease – indeed, the soil’s high ingredients and relatively simple cuisine will be mineral content, the perfect climate and the happy here, and almost everything will call for a Taverna dei proximity to the sea help to explain why several of generous dash of local olive oil. Cacciucco, a hearty Boncompagni Italy’s top wine producers were attracted to this fish stew, and black squid-ink risotto, feature on In the heart of Piombino’s small area. They have invested heavily, establishing most menus. Or you might be tempted by a rare delightful historic centre, just by vineyards and gleaming new wineries, and have delicacy: sea urchin roes as a pasta topping. Wild the pretty town hall, this taverna In Piombino’s citadel overlooking added to and stimulated the local talent. boar appears as pasta sauces, cured ham and in offers beautifully presented, the sea, this is a must for anyone savoury, wine-drenched stews. Porcini mushrooms Before retiring, Luciana largely sea-inspired cuisine with a interested in Etruscan civilisation. Exploring the wine regions abound in the chestnut woods, and chestnut flour Lynch was a consultant gourmet twist, matched by an A vast collection, with evidence of There are three official wine areas: Bolgheri DOC, is used for castagnaccio, a dense cake enriched with specialising in Italian extensive, well-chosen wine list. the role of iron and the importance Suvereto and Val di Cornia, the last two elevated pine nuts, sultanas and rosemary, baked in olive oil. wine. She is a wine writer, www.tavernadeiboncompagni.it of vines. www.parchivaldicornia.it

Photographs:Claudio Gennai; EisingStudio-Food Video/StockFood;Photo& recentlyMalgorzata Stepien/GettyImages; PaoloBiondi to DOCG. Bolgheri, in the north and Fofluns doesn’t go hungry, either. D educator and judge

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