ROSSO SUPERIORE

Bolgheri: a to age? and Sassicaia grace the cellars of many a connoisseur. But beyond these great names, how do the of Bolgheri age? Richard Baudains assesses which wines of this young region will go the distance

WHEN ITALIANS WANT to explain something, ‘A significant means that a significant proportion of the total they invariably begin with the history. When it production has only begun to appear in the comes to wine, this generally involves lengthy proportion of last 10-12 years, which clearly has a major preambles involving Latin texts of dubious bearing on the issue of ageability. relevance to what is happening today. In the production case of Bolgheri, however, the timeline is the Will it age? place to start – not because Bolgheri has a long has only The longer-established estates have history, but for the opposite histories. For many of the newer ones, the issue reason: it is very young. appeared in is not ‘can Bolgheri age?’ but ‘will it age?’. If you In the beginning, there was Sassicaia: first consider the precedents, the potential should planting, 1944; first commercial bottling, 1968; the last 10 to be there. The investment value of Ornellaia international recognition, 1978, when it blew and Sassicaia is based on their longevity. away the competition at a tasting of 12 years’ Although they age in different ways – world Cabernets. Ornellaia, the other icon of Ornellaia expresses power and depth and the Tuscan coast, appeared in 1985. Around Sassicaia restrained elegance – both wines that time, a small group of producers including have a prodigious ability to defy the passing of Michele Satta, Eugenio Campolmi at Le time. And it is an ability that is not limited to Macchiole and Piermario Meletti Cavallari at great . Sassicaia from the notoriously Grattamacco also began to make innovative wet 2002 is a masterpiece, and incredibly red wines from international varieties. seems still to be improving (‘Yes, it has come The name Bolgheri first appeared in a DOC along nicely in the last few years,’ says Marchese in 1983 although, curiously, it only applied to Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, president of the production of white and rosato wines. ). The 1990s saw the mushrooming of new For a benchmark, both Ornellaia and estates, with the influx of foreign investment Sassicaia consider 1998 or 1999 to be at their and the arrival of blue-chip Italian producers peak now. Among the other longer-established Allegrini, Berlucchi, Folonari and . estates, Grattamacco and Michele Satta’s started production of Guado al Tasso Piastraia 2001s are drinking beautifully now, at its Belvedere estate, and a new DOC for red with mature, complex aromas of maquis, with wines based on a blend of international a fresh, dark-fruit vein and fine-knit textures. varieties was finally introduced. There is no doubt, then, that Bolgheri wines Growth since has been rapid. Of the current can evolve in a way that makes it well worth area of roughly 1,200 hectares, nearly laying them down. But does this hold true for

Photograph:OliverStrewe/Getty Images 1,000ha have been planted since 1998. This the DOC as a whole? The answer is elusive. ➢

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Bolgheri has extremely varied terrains. A recent study identified no fewer than 27 distinct soil profiles and it is probable that not all have the same vocation for producing long-lived wines. Significantly, the wines with a proven track record for ageing are sourced, in part, if not entirely, from higher with stony, calcareous soils. The DOC norms predispose towards the production of concentrated, barrel-aged wines: yields are low; entry-level Bolgheri rosso gives producers the possibility to cream off the best of the crop for the top Bolgheri superiore; and ‘The wines with the longest ageing requirements are similar to Bordeaux’s. Not all producers, however, opt for the vin de Above: Castello di which, along this stretch vintage histories are all – garde style. Batzella’s Tam, Levia Gravia from Bolgheri does not age of coast, grows magnificently. It forms the Caccia Al Piano and Le Fornacelle’s Guardaboschi wines in new – steel backbone of the typical Bolgheri Superiore with rare exceptions – all begin their bottle life with chunky oak or old oak is used blend (40% of the total vineyard area is planted tannins that discourage early drinking, and instead, making wines to the variety). The wines with the longest Cabernet-dominated blends’ encourage cellaring. Other producers take a suitable to drink earlier vintage histories are all – with rare exceptions softer line on oak ageing, which allows the – Cabernet-dominated blends. Photograph:MickRock/Cephas fruit to express itself more spontaneously and Modification to the DOC norms in 2011 makes for more immediate drinking. opened the way to monovarietal , has sparked a lot of interest in recent Bolgheri is exciting. The wines are capable Above: about 40% of and Syrah, introducing years – in the opinion of Michele Satta, it is the of a fruit quality and a silky finesse in the the Bolgheri vineyard mix another variable into the ageability issue. grape variety that best expresses the tannins that few Italian regions can match. area is planted with Federico Zileri from the Castello di Bolgheri Producers are starting to question the Mediterranean character of the coast. But And as the vines age, they are acquiring more Cabernet Sauvignon reasons that because his wines have such suitability of the Tuscan coast for the fast- again, monovarietal wines seem to give their personality. Bolgheri can deliver long-term naturally soft tannins, there is no need to ripening Merlot grape. Cabernet Franc has best in the mid- rather than long term. What ageability – a universally recognised criterion Richard Baudains is a inflict new oak on them, which means earlier delicious fleshy red fruit (Axel Heinz from seems to be emerging here is a niche category of excellence in red wines – but it is not the regular contributor to drinking windows. Many 2009s are ready now. Ornellaia believes Bolgheri is one of the best (production is limited) of wines that deliver only source of drinking pleasure. If you want Decanter and Regional Then there’s the question of grape varieties. places in the world to grow the variety), but it the plush, soft-textured fruit of Bolgheri, something special that you do not have to wait co-Chair for at Bolgheri’s ageability derives in large part from is not a grape renowned for its ageing ability. rather than its ageability. 10 years to drink, Bolgheri can do that too. D the DWWA

Baudains’ top Bolgheri reds, 2009-2011

Castello di Bolgheri, Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore 2011 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, drinking now, but with prospects for the Round on the palate, velvety tannins, good substance on the palate, chewy texture and Bolgheri Superiore 2011 19 (96) Bolgheri 2011 future. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14.5% length, precise fruit and savoury, mineral concentrated tangy fruit on the finish. 19/20 (96/100) £111-£133 Armit, Fine & Rare, Private Cellar, 19 (96) finish. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14.5% Needs time, but has lots to give in the £34-£60 Amazon.com, The Wine Society, TryWines Expertise £105-£116 Armit, Fine & Rare, Campo Alla Sughera, future. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% FortyFive10°, Huntsworth Wine Co Massive concentration of colour belies a Private Cellar, The Wine Society, Arnione, Bolgheri Superiore I Luoghi Campo Al Fico, Intense wild berries on the fresh, refined nose with delicious fruit TryWines Expertise 2009 18.5 (95) Bolgheri Superiore 2011 Caccia Al Piano 1868, Levia nose, hints of eucalyptus and (blackberry and sour plum). Palate of Initially a little oaky on the nose, £34.86-£39.50 Mondial Wine, 18.5 (95) Gravia, Bolgheri Superiore thyme. Juicy impact on the breathtaking depth and texture, and an but underneath there is pure Vini Italiani £82.90 (2009) Aubert & Mascoli 2009 palate, very fine tannins and a amazing combination of power, balance vibrant fruit. Great fruit Freshness on the nose, notes of Fresh, complex and very 17.5 (91) N/A UK www.berlucchi.it silky suppleness. Has body, and elegance. A wine with a dazzling concentration on the palate plums, black cherry, violets. Fine personal nose; savoury herbs, Starting to show some with elegant refinement. future. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14.5% with a fleshiness not typical of chalky tannins on the palate, liquorice, a touch of tar. Great evolution in the colour, but Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 14.5% Sassicaia in its first years. Tight-packed, full-bodied and more broad than volume and length on the palate, still fresh on the nose, with Poggio Al Tesoro, Dedicato A Walter, needs time. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13.5% long, but all very together; a with very fine, ripe tannins, blackberry fruit and a touch Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore2011 Bolgheri Superiore 2010 19 (96) pure fruit vein and juicy finish. delicate plummy fruit, and a hint of green olives. Refined 19 (96) £43.60-£55.99 (2008) Imbibros, Argentiera, Bolgheri Superiore 2010 Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14.5% of green walnut and a bone-dry tannins and sweet fruit on £35-£37.72 Amazon.com, Farr Vintners Liberty Wines, Loki, Thedrinkshop.com 18.5 (95) finish. Intriguing. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% the palate, quite round and Complex and already quite open on the Delicate blackberry and violets on the £54.33 Farr Vintners Donna Olimpia 1898, Millepassi, fleshy in texture, but with a firm grippy nose, with lovely ripe fruit, violets, nose, with light spice in the background. Classic Cabernet nose of blackcurrant and Bolgheri Superiore 2009 18.5 (95) Le Macchiole Il Paleo, Bolgheri finish. Drinking now, but you could liquorice and hints of savoury herbs. Fluid palate, fine balanced tannins, silky tea leaf. Firm and slightly austere palate, £36.88 (2011) Genesis Wines Superiore 2011 18 (93) confidently lay this down for a few years. Broadly woven on the palate, with texture and just the right firmness on the tight tannins but lots of length and Starting to show some evolution in colour. £54 Farr Vintners, Lea & Sandeman Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% mouthwatering concentration of flavours. finish. Young, but dripping with class. appetising mineral-fruit contrast on the Mature, warm nose of baked plum, with a Delicately floral, with plummy fruit, herbs Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14% Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14.5% finish. Excellent expression of the vintage, touch of apple crumble and creme fraiche. and hints of sweet red peppers. Bags of For full UK stockist details, see p89

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