Nicely spicy Curry-puff aficionado Susan Jung finds a combination of French and Chinese pastry techniques brings mouthwatering results.

Curry puffs, which are popular in Malaysia of the dough over the fat layer, overlapping start at the short end and roll tightly. Wrap and Singapore, are few and far between in the dough to securely enclose the fat. and refrigerate. Hong Kong, so I started making my own. Position the dough/fat package so one edge Heat 90ml oil in a skillet, add the onion Being an obsessive type when it comes to is parallel to the edge of the work surface and cook over a low heat until soft and cooking, it took numerous attempts before nearest you. Roll the dough/fat into a translucent, then transfer to a bowl. Add I came up with a version I liked, primarily rectangle about 38cm by 18cm, flouring as 30ml oil to the skillet (no need to have because of the pastry. I tried using com- necessary to prevent it sticking to the work washed it), add the potato and season lightly mercial puff pastry, which is sold in thin surface and the rolling pin. Fold the top third with salt. Stir to coat the potato with the oil sheets, and several homemade versions of the dough down towards the centre then then add about 50ml of water. Cover with the made with butter, lard (which I rendered) the bottom third up and over the top, so it lid, turn the heat to low and simmer until the and goose fat. The best were made with lard forms three layers. Reposition the dough so potato is tender. Increase the heat and cook – the traditional fat for Chinese flaky pastry the short end is parallel to the edge of the until most of the water has evaporated. Add (although most bakeries now use shortening, work surface and roll to a 38cm by 18cm the potato to the onion then wash the pan. which is an acceptable substitute). I doubt rectangle. Fold the dough again into three Heat 60ml of oil in the skillet, add the shallot many readers will make their own flaky layers, then wrap and refrigerate for 30 and garlic and cook until soft. Add the pastry, so I’m also outlining the technique minutes. Repeat the rolling and layering chicken or beef, season with salt and cook for using commercial puff pastry; it’s also twice then refrigerate for 30 minutes before over a medium-high heat to brown the meat. delicious but the results won’t be as flaky rolling and layering another two times. Stir in the curry powder and cayenne then and delicate as in the photo. Refrigerate for at least one hour. lower the heat and cook for about five minutes, stirring frequently. If the ingredients Chinese flaky pastry Curry puffs stick to the pan, drizzle in a little more oil. This dough is a classic Chinese recipe but This filling is adapted from The Best of Add the coconut cream and simmer until it uses a French technique for layering in the Singapore Cooking, by Leong Yee Soo. For has been absorbed but the mixture isn’t dry. fat. Lard is sold in the refrigerated section a vegetarian version, increase the quantity Add salt, pepper and a little sugar to taste. of markets such as Oliver’s and City’super. of peas and substitute diced carrot for the Stir in the peas then remove from the pan, Buy the type that’s not hydrogenated (it’s meat, adding it at the same time you add allow to cool completely then refrigerate. usually made in Britain or Australia, rather the potato. If using homemade pastry, cut the spiral than the US). about 1cm thick. On a floured work surface, Homemade flaky pastry or three 20cm-square roll each piece of dough to a 13cm circle. If For the dough: sheets of commercial puff pastry using commercial dough, cut the spiral about 260 grams plain flour 180ml cooking oil, plus extra for deep-frying 6mm thick and roll each piece to a 13cm 60 grams lard or shortening, chilled the puffs circle. For both types of pastry doughs, place 200ml warm water, or more as needed 200 grams onion, diced two heaped tablespoons of the cold filling in 250 grams potato, peeled and diced the centre of the circle. Lightly dampen half For the fat layer: 85 grams shallot, thinly sliced the circle with water then fold in half to 195 grams plain flour 2 large garlic cloves, chopped enclose the filling. Press tightly to seal the 180 grams lard or shortening, chilled 15 grams grated fresh ginger edges then crimp them with your fingers. 250 grams minced beef or diced chicken thigh Gently shape each crescent so the centre Make the dough by mixing the flour with the 20 grams curry powder sticks out slightly – it will look like a lard or shortening. Add most of the water and ¼ tsp cayenne pepper misshapen triangle, with the bottom edge stir until it forms a soft, cohesive dough. If it 200ml coconut cream slightly curved. Place on a tray lined with seems dry, add a little more warm water. 80 grams frozen peas parchment paper and refrigerate. Knead the dough briefly, shape into a square, Granulated sugar, to taste Heat the oil in a pan to a depth of about cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, 5cm. When the oil reaches 180 degrees about 30 minutes. to taste Celsius, fry the curry puffs a few at a time; do Make the fat layer by mixing the flour with not crowd the pan. When they’re puffed and the lard or shortening to form a soft, slightly If using homemade flaky pastry, roll it on golden brown, remove from the oil and drain sticky mass. Refrigerate in the mixing bowl a floured surface into a 60cm by 22cm on paper towels. Serve hot. They can be for about 30 minutes. rectangle. Starting at the shorter end, roll reheated in the oven at 180 degrees. On a lightly floured surface, pat the dough the dough into a tight spiral (as with a Swiss into a 22cm square. Gently pull on the four roll). Wrap with plastic and refrigerate until corners to stretch them a little thinner. Pat needed. If using commercial puff pastry, Picture Koji Studio the fat layer into a 12cm diamond shape lay the squares, slightly overlapping, end to Styling Corner Kitchen Cooking School directly on top of the dough. Pull the corners end. Press firmly where they overlap then

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