Poreaway™ Effective, Matifying Skin Refiner

PoreAway™ Effective, matifying skin refiner

A Precious Medicinal Resign Designed to PoreAway™ Fight Dilated Pores and Matify the Skin • Visibly reduces the appearance of pores Based on mastic, which is an aromatic resin that comes • Fights shininess, blemishes, and clogged pores from the bark of a tree that grows on the Greek island of • Creates a smooth, matte finish Chios, PoreAway™ tightens dilated pores – making them • Manages imperfections effectively and invisible – and purifies the skin. simultaneously improves skin hydration

Mastic has been recognized since ancient times for Applications its unique aroma and therapeutic properties. It was • Treatments for combination and / or oily skin notably used as a chewing gum in order to clean teeth • Pore minimizing formulas and freshen breath thanks to its anti-microbial proper- • Skin perfecting masks ties. Furthermore, it was also used in face creams to • Matifying formulas improve skin radiance, which was probably because of • BB creams its purifying and astringent effects. Formulating with PoreAway™ The application of mastic in modern cosmetics has thus • Recommended use level: 2 – 3 % far been limited due to its stickiness and insolubility • Incorporation: For cold processes, dissolve PoreAway™ in water. However, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed into the aqueous phase. In hot / cold processes, add a technique to make a water-soluble mastic preparation during the cooling phase below 40 °C. that is suitable for cosmetic applications. PoreAway™, • Thermostability: Temperatures of up to 40 °C for a the resulting product, is easy to formulate and it is not short time will not affect the stability of PoreAway™. sticky. For further information, please refer to our formulation guidelines. PoreAway™ was shown to inhibit the 5α reductase I activity and reduce the skin’s inflammatory reaction INCI (EU / PCPC) Declaration in vitro. PoreAway™ (standard version): Pistacia Lentiscus Gum / Clinical studies conducted on Caucasian and Asian Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (and) Lecithin (and) women with dilated pores and impure skin showed Glycerin (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua / Water that PoreAway™: • tightens dilated pores PoreAway™ oA (without alcohol): Pistacia Lentiscus Gum / • refines the skin grain Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (and) Hydrogenated • reduces imperfections such as comedones and Lecithin (and) Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin microcysts (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Aqua / Water • reduces skin shine • all the while improving skin moisturization.

PoreAway™ can therefore visibly improve the quality of the skin by refining its texture, while reducing cutaneous imperfections, and skin shine.

December 2019 Mastic An endemic resin from the Greek island of Chios

Mastic, the Gold of Chios since Antiquity Mastic Trees only Weep in Chios Chios mastiha, which is also called mastic, is an aromatic The mastic tree or lentisk is an evergreen shrub which resin produced by the lentisk tree that grows on the grows on arid, rocky, and poor soil. Lentisks are typical Greek island of Chios (Pistacia Lentiscus var. Chia). The maquis-type vegetation found in Mediterranean coun- name is derived from the Greek words “μαστάζω”(chew) tries. and “μάσταξ” (mouth). Mastic is excreted in the form of tears from the trunk and the main branches through However, only the mastic trees of southern Chios give scratches on their surfaces. After its solidification, which the mastiha resin when the bark is scratched. This is results in an ivory translucent colored resin, it is collected, probably due to the soil and the especially warm and washed, and cleaned. This traditional and sustainable dry weather conditions, and it explains why mastic harvesting process makes mastic a renewable resource production in Chios is granted protected designation that supports the communities on the Greek island of origin (PDO). The know-how relating to the cultivation of Chios. of mastic on the island of Chios was also inscribed on the “list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity” Mastic has been recognized since ancient times for its by UNESCO in 2014. unique aroma and therapeutic properties. Due to its high price at the time, mastic was only purchased by wealthy people.

Mastic Tears on the Trunk of a Mastic Tree and Dried Mastic Mastic A multi-purpose substance

Medicinal, Pharmaceutical and Industrial Applications Mastic for Skin Care Mastic has been used since ancient times, most notably Mastic has been consistently used in skin care formula- for its therapeutic properties. tions for hundreds of years. Mastic was the first natural chewing gum in the ancient world. It was used to clean teeth and freshen breath, In the first century AD, Dioscorides, the renowned phar- as well as to prevent and cure digestive disorders. Scien- macologist of antiquity, wrote that mastic promoted tific studies have confirmed these historically recorded skin radiance when it was incorporated in face creams. effects; chewing mastic improves oral hygiene by reduc- In addition, he noted that mastic oil cleansed the face ing microbial plaque formation and eliminating bacterial and gave it a healthy color. growth inside the oral cavity. Furthermore, mastic chewing contributes to soothing of the stomach. Meanwhile, in the Roman Empire, upper class ladies used beauty creams that contained mastic. Due to its anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects, mastic has also been used in And in the Byzantine Empire, mastic was used to produce recent years: luxury scented soaps. In addition, it was also reputed to • in the preparation of ointments for skin disorders as provide protection from the sun’s rays, and it was there- well as in toothpaste and mouth wash for cleaning fore also used in sun protection preparations. and disinfecting the oral cavity • as a component of bandages, adhesive plasters and compresses for the protection and healing of wounds as well as dental fillings and tooth molds • as both a spice and a thickener in food and beverages • as a perfume, perfume stabilizer and color stabilizer. PoreAway™ Mastic for cosmetic application

Several Factors Cause Pore Dilatation Mastic: a Natural Solution to Treat Dilated Pores Sebum is continuously synthesized by the sebaceous Mastic can attenuate the appearance of dilated pores gland and it is secreted to the skin surface through the and therefore even skin grain by: hair follicle pore. Together with sweat, it forms the • purifying the skin thanks to its anti-bacterial, hydrolipidic film, which maintains the hydration of the anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects skin and protects it from external aggressions. • tightening the pores thanks to its astringent effect.

Hormonal changes, as well as stress, tiredness, smoking, PoreAway™: a Mastic Preparation for Cosmetic pollution, excessive exfoliation, and pore-clogging Application products, may induce an overproduction of sebum Mastic is extremely sticky and its low solubility in water which leads to oily skin and impurities. represents a major challenge for cosmetic formulations as it is only soluble in alcohol and other organic solvents. Several Factors Cause Pore Dilatation Pores may enlarge for several reasons: However, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a tech- • an excessive sebum production nique to make a water-soluble mastic preparation that is • the obstruction of the sebaceous canal due to suitable for cosmetic applications. Mastic is dissolved into hyperkeratinisation a mixture of ethanol and glycerin under controlled and • a loss of skin elasticity. gentle heating. It is then encapsulated into liposomes to Dilated pores are one of the characteristics of oily and yield the resulting product – PoreAway™. combination skins. However, they also appear with time, For PoreAway™ oA, the alcohol-free version, the mastic regardless of skin type. This is because skin elasticity resin was first dissolved into an oil phase and then decreases with age and this causes the pores to stretch. homogenized into a water phase using hydrogenated lecithin. Dilated pores are especially visible in the T-zone Both products are fully dispersible in water, stable in (the forehead, nose, and chin) and on the cheeks. emulsions, and easy to formulate.

Oily Skin and Pore Dilatation

Redness / Irritations / Comedones

Shininess

Enhanced sebum production

Enlarged pore mis Epider

Sebaceous gland mis Der mi s Hypoder PoreAway™ Study results

Inhibition of 5α Reductase I Inhibition of Inflammatory Reaction Signs of impure skin, such as enlarged pores Increased sebum production can lead to the and acne, arise as a result of an increased pro- formation of comedones and then to the colo- duction of sebum. The hormone dihydrotestosterone nization by C. acnes, which causes an immune response regulates the formation of sebum in the sebaceous leading to an inflammatory reaction. PoreAway™ oA gland. This hormone is produced from testosterone by was tested for a possible anti-inflammatory effect on the enzyme 5α reductase type I, which is the isoform primary human keratinocytes. of the enzyme that predominates in the sebaceous gland and is therefore the target in the therapy of impure skin. Following stimulation with inflammation-inducing IL-1α In the following study, PoreAway™ was tested for its in for 48 hours, the PoreAway™ oA-pretreated keratinocytes hibitory effect on human 5α reductase I activity. showed a clear concentration-dependent reduction in the release of the chemokine CCL20. In fact, CCL20 was The results showed a clear concentration-dependent found to not only be upregulated after skin barrier dis-

inhibition of 5α reductase I activity with an IC50 value of ruption and during inflammatory skin conditions, but it 274 µg /ml. Therefore, one can conclude that PoreAway™ was also shown to be involved in the inflammatory path- helps to reduce sebum production in skin. way typical for acne lesions.

Therefore, PoreAway™ oA can be considered to have an anti-inflammatory effect on skin cells.

Inhibition of 5α Reductase I Anti-Inflammatory Effect on Skin Cells

Non-stimulated control Stimulated control PoreAway™ oA

100 120

100 75

ol (=100) in % 80 eductase I in % 50 oduction 60 pr IC50: 274.3 35.7μg/ml 40 CCL20 * 25 ed to stimulated contr

Inhibition of 5 т r 20 * *

compar * 0 0 0100 200300 400500 600 0.011 % 0.033 %0.1 %

Concentration of PoreAway (μg/ml) *p<0.001 versus stimulated control

S-508 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-662 / © Mibelle Biochemistry PoreAway™ Study results

Pore Refining Effect Twenty Caucasian women aged between Results showed that PoreAway™ significantly 24 to 61 years (mean age: 42.8 years) with refined pores: enlarged pores applied a cream containing 2 % • by more than 8 % after 14 days PoreAway™ on one-half of their face and the corre • by almost 15 % after 28 days. sponding placebo on the other half of their face, twice daily for a period of 28 days. After 28 days of treatment with PoreAway™, the pore refining effect was observed in 95 % of the volunteers. Silflo silicon imprints from an area with enlarged pores were recorded before and after treatment. Pore refinement was determined by measuring the roughness of the skin resulting from the dilation of the pores by PRIMOS.

Pore Refinement

Placebo 2 % PoreAway™

15 **

10 ed to initial conditions in % * *

5 eﬁnement compar

e r 0 Por After 14 days After 28 days

**p<0.05 versus initial conditions **p<0.05 versus initial conditions and placebo

S-326 / © Mibelle Biochemistry Pore Size Reduction In the same study, the total pore area was also determined by further calculations of the PRIMOS results. The datasets were filtered to separate point-shaped structures of extreme depth (pores) from the ground structure.

Following 28 days of treatment with PoreAway™, a reduction of the total pore area was observed in 75 % of the volunteers.

Reduction of Total Pore Area after 28 Days Reduction of Pore Size

* 6 ea e ar

4 Before ease in total por ed to initial conditions in % 2 Decr compar

0 Placebo 2 % PoreAway™

**p<0.05 versus initial conditions After 28 days

S-326 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-326 / © Mibelle Biochemistry PoreAway™ Study results

Anti-Comedogenic Effect Visible Reduction of Shininess The anti-comedogenic and purifying effects In the same study, the shiny aspect of the skin of the of PoreAway™ were evaluated in a double- volunteers of the two groups was scored visually blind study performed in Bangkok, Thailand on volun- by trained assessors both before and at the end of teers with acne-prone skin. the treatment.

A total of 44 Thai women aged between 30 years A relative reduction of shininess was observed for 32 % and 52 years with retentional lesions (blackheads of the volunteers who were treated with PoreAway™, and microcysts) on their faces, were selected. whereas the volunteers who were treated with the pla- The volunteers were separated into two groups: cebo did not show any visible net reduction in shininess. • One group applied a 2 % PoreAway™ cream to their faces, twice daily for 28 days. PoreAway™ can therefore visibly eliminate shininess and • The same treatment was carried out on the this means it has a matifying effect. second group using the corresponding placebo

The comedones (which are also known as blackheads) and microcysts on the faces of the volunteers were counted by a dermatologist before and after the 28 day period of treatment with the test products.

The results showed that PoreAway™ significantly reduced both types of retentional lesions after 28 days of treatment: Blackheads were reduced by almost 40 %, whereas microcysts were reduced by almost 30 % compared to initial conditions.

Decrease in Retentional Lesions Decrease in Cutaneous Shininess

Placebo 2 % PoreAway™ 2 % PoreAway™

-15 etentional lesions ed to initial conditions in % -30 * Evolution of r compar

** -45 Blackheads Microcysts 010203040

*p<0.001 versus initial conditions Volunteers with a visible reduction in shininess compared to placebo (%) **p<0.005 versus initial conditions and placebo

S-350 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-350 / © Mibelle Biochemistry Visible Reduction of Imperfections and Shininess Perception of the Efficacy by Self-Evaluation In addition, macrophotographs were taken both before At the end of the study, the volunteers were asked, and after the treatment. via a questionnaire, to state whether they perceived improvements in terms of specific criteria as well An analysis of the pictures of the volunteers treated with as a general improvement. the 2 % PoreAway™ emulsion showed a visible reduction of imperfections as well as a reduction in the shininess of Results showed that after 28 days of treatment with the skin. PoreAway™: • 95 % of volunteers considered their skin to be less oily and less shiny • 72 % of volunteers considered their skin to be smoother • 73 % of volunteers considered their skin to be more supple.

Finally, 95 % of volunteers noticed a general improvement in their skin following 28 days of treatment with PoreAway™.

Improvement of Acne-Prone Skin

Before After

S-350 / © Mibelle Biochemistry PoreAway™ Study results

Pore Count and Volume Reduction The pore refinement and sebum reduction Treatment with 2 % PoreAway™ oA significantly reduced capabilities of PoreAway™ oA were evaluated in both pore count and pore volume after just one week by a double-blind study performed in Seoul, South Korea, 20.5 % and 30.1 %, respectively. on volunteers with oily and impure skin. The effect was even more pronounced after two weeks Twenty-three Asian women aged between 21 years of treatment with 2 % PoreAway™ oA, whereupon there and 48 years (mean age: 28 years) applied a cream with was a significant reduction of pore count by 30.3 % and 2 % PoreAway™ oA on one-half of their face and the pore volume by 41.7 %. corresponding placebo on the other half of their face, twice daily for a period of 14 days.

Pore count and volume was measured with ANTERA 3D on the cheeks of the volunteers.

Decrease in Skin Pore Count Decrease in Skin Pore Volume

Placebo 2 % PoreAway™ oA Placebo 2 % PoreAway™ oA

40 50

* * 40 30 e count

e volum * 30 * 20

20 ease in skin por ed to initial conditions in % ed to initial conditions in % ease in skin por 10 Decr

Decr 10 compar compar

0 0 After 1 week After 2 weeks After 1 week After 2 weeks

*p<0.005 versus initial conditions and placebo *p<0.05 versus initial conditions and placebo

S-778 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-778 / © Mibelle Biochemistry Visible Reduction of Pore Appearance In the same study, the effect of treatment with 2 % These results demonstrate an efficient pore appearance Pore Away oA on the appearance of pores was visible reduction by PoreAway™ oA following just two weeks of in the ANTERA 3D pictures. application.

While the placebo side of the volunteer did not show any improvement regarding pore appearance (see upper panel), the side of the face that was treated with 2 % Pore Away oA displayed a visible reduction in pore appearance.

Reduction of Pore Appearance

Before After 2 weeks Placebo oA ™ 2 % PoreAway

The placebo and PoreAway™ oA pictures were taken from both halves of the face of the same volunteer.

Reduction of Sebum Output Increase in Skin Moisture In the same clinical study as that from the In the same study, skin hydration was measured using previous pages, the sebum reduction abilities a Corneometer. of PoreAway™ oA was also assessed. Skin hydration significantly increased after treatment Twenty-three Asian women aged between 21 years and with 2 % PoreAway™ oA. 48 years (mean age: 28 years) applied a cream with 2 % PoreAway™ oA on one-half of their face and the corre- These results demonstrate that despite efficiently reduc- sponding placebo on the other half of their face, twice ing sebum production in oily skin types, treatment with daily for a period of 14 days. PoreAway™ oA does not dry out the skin.

Sebum production was measured using a Sebumeter.

Treatment with 2 % PoreAway™ oA reduced sebum output by 4 % after one week and 11 % after two weeks of application. The results were statistically significant compared to the placebo.

Decrease in Sebum Output Increase in Skin Hydration

Placebo 2 % PoreAway™ oA Placebo 2 % PoreAway™ oA

5 8 **

0 6 **

-5 * 4

* ease in skin hydration ed to initial conditions in % ed to initial conditions in % -10 2 Change in sebum output Incr * compar compar

-15 0 After 1 week After 2 weeks After 1 week After 2 weeks

*p<0.05 versus placebo *p<0.05 versus initial conditions **p<0.005 versus initial conditions and placebo

S-778 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-778 / © Mibelle Biochemistry Visible Reduction of Shininess A visible effect of PoreAway™ oA treatment on skin impurities and shininess was demonstrated by photo- graphs of the volunteers that were taken with VISIA CR.

Treatment with 2 % PoreAway™ oA visibly reduces skin shininess and impurities.

Improvement of Visible Shininess and Impurities

Before After 1 week After 2 weeks

S-778 / © Mibelle Biochemistry Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs / Switzerland, Phone + 41 62 836 17 31, [email protected], www.mibellebiochemistry.com Realized byscience. naturally derivedcompoundsandprofound scientificknow-how. Inspired bynature – Mibelle Biochemistrydesignsanddevelopsinnovative,high-qualityactivesbasedon Innovating foryoursuccess • • • • Marketing Benefits creams • BB formulas • Matifying • • • Applications • • • • PoreAway Effective, matifyingskinrefiner PoreAway publication maybe reproduced ofMibelleAGBiochemistry. inany mannerwithoutthepriorwritten permission anddisclaims anyandallliabilityinconnection withyourproduct of thisinformation oritsuse.Nopartofthis erty rights.Mibelle AGBiochemistrywillnotassume anyexpressed orimplied liabilityinconnectionwithanyuse your obligationtocomplywithallapplicable lawsandregulations andtoobserveallthird partyintellectualprop statements are offered solelyforyourconsideration, investigationandverificationdonot relieve youfrom No legallybindingpromise orwarrantyregarding thesuitabilityofourproducts foranyspecificuseismade.Any containedinthis publication isprovidedThe information in good faithandisbased onourcurrent knowledge. 100 A uniquecombinationofaskinpurifyingeffect withoutdryingouttheskin a smoothmattefinish All-in-one: reduces pore sizeandshine,refines skintexture, andcreates A new, veryspecialandendemic source from theMediterraneanregion Skin perfectingmasks Pore minimizingformulas Treatments forcombinationand Manages imperfectionseffectively andsimultaneouslyimproves skinhydration Creates asmooth,mattefinish Fights shininess,blemishes,andcloggedpores reducesVisibly theappearanceofpores % naturalorigin ™ ™

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