Deconstruction Breezy Silhouettes Washer Detailing Prints Shaded Colour Effects Basket Weaving Deconstruction Breezy Silhouettes

o collections for the beach, cruise, resort and destination weddings demand a different category of fabrics just like the silhouettes and designs of the garments, which are distinct and at times totally DECONSTRUCTION deconstructed? A look through the collections at the first edition of the Gionee India Beach Fashion Week 2015 held in Goa from February 5-7 Drevealed that designers did move slightly off the beaten for this genre of fashion with BREEZY their choice of fabrics and the treatment rendered. NEW LOOK DENIM Inspired by Goa’s Ozora Music Festival and the look of the swinging SILHOUETTES 70s, Raakesh Agarvwal imparted a rave look to the sturdy indigo fabric with intense shredding and tattering treatment. So much so that the heavy WASHER distressed look rendered the fabric WASHER into yarns in total disarray. “All the denims are lightweight, well-treated and coated. They are not bought from New Delhi’s Nehru DETAILING Place but are factory-made and the important aspect is that this look for the fabrics is licensed so I think I will be the first designer to get into PRINTS licensing of special fabrics,” informs Agarvwal excitedly. The designer showed denim in three treatments. ‘Colour Strokes’, the first SHADED treatment was constructed in stretch satin RFD fabric, where the garments were first desized and then washed with enzyme, bleach and softener to give soft hand-feel and COLOUR puckering effect on seams. “Later all garments were handpainted with colour techniques to highlight seams in colours but leaving the seams EFFECTS untouched white and/or painted asymmetrically in abstract worn and used look,” says Agarvwal. For the second look called ‘Mother Asmita Marwa BASKET of Hippies Distressed and Slashed’, the garments in indigo denim, after the first few steps as mentioned SHIMMER KHADI above were worked up in dry process Hyderabad designer Asmita Marwa’s by bringing distress tear details and ‘Bela Alma’ collection was pure WEAVING bleach sprayed at different intensities resortwear in cotton, voile, linen and to bring out a heavily worn and khadi in plain as well as also shimmer Texturing on light and frothy used look. “Some styles were later varieties. “I get my fabrics from the put through another random wash open market or agents in Hyderabad fabrics, licensing a special treatment in bleach. All processes used are and Delhi. My look is very relaxed and on the sturdy indigo denim were the authentic handcrafted techniques laidback -- ideal for the beach so I like to highlights at the recently concluded from the denim industry,” informed use fluid textures. The khadi this season Agarvwal. Raakesh Agarvwal has a discreet shimmer, which I have first edition of the Gionee India ‘Art Nouveau’ -- the final look got specially woven with shining thread Beach Fashion Week 2015 held – in coated indigo denim featured so that it looks like lamé or Lurex from a in Goa. MEHER CASTELINO exclusive hand embroidery techniques that were bleach-sprayed to give a naturally distance,” reveals Marwa. Her relaxed, reports worn and faded look. “Here the garment was first hand-sanded and given a softener breezy silhouettes consisted of loose wash. Bleach was then sprayed over the garment to bring a natural fade compared pants, tunics, tiny shorts, bikini covers to the darker lesser worn out areas which were worked over with embroidery,” stated and wrap around pants. She added Agarvwal whose collection comprised belted mini trench dresses, shirt waist dresses, pretty prints and motifs along with metal minis, corset jumpsuits, jackets, micro shorts and tiny dresses with long, shredded and stone work as well as safety pins fabric shirt tails. and washer detailing as embellishments.

FIBRE2FASHION FIBRE2FASHION KHADI NEO CLASSIC AFRICAN SAFARI Khadi along with cottons and organic fabrics, The ‘Kalahari’ sourced from his home town Ahmedabad, were used collection by Nachiket by Nilesh Parashar for his label ‘Nautanky’. These Barve, inspired were treated with digital and screen printing, textured by the motifs and with dyeing and placement embroidery. “I have added fabrics of the Dark IN THE SWIM intricate surface ornamentation, mixing traditional Continent, used There was a time when crafts with rich textiles and combined them with fabrics that covered getting a good swimsuit detailing and vibrant prints to present a collection of almost every texture was impossible in India and fusion wear with hot air balloons and perfume bottle and weave starting one had to either get it from prints,” explained Parashar. with tussar silk, kota, abroad or ask the family tailor tulle, silk chiffon, to stitch one in cotton fabric. crépe, georgette, But now thanks to great organza, chanderi, fabrics being easily available Nilesh Parashar raw silk, spun silk, there were several designers washed dupion and who showed swimwear in satin. A master at their collections. . fabric texturing and Harsh Agarwal’s ‘Omana’ manipulation, Barve label which specialises in once again worked his swim, cruise and resort magic with his long wear presented the ‘Tropical list of materials. The Dreamscape’ collection colours matched the worked on flat chiffons, silks hues of the African and new age fabrics like desert and were sand, scuba and neoprene. Bikinis, earth, sky and plant monokinis, maillots followed green. by cover-ups, jackets, maxis To recreate the and sarongs in digital prints raffia woven Shoowa featured Hawaiian motifs. and Kuba textiles worn “The scuba fabric we used by the inhabitants for the bikinis, monokinis of the Congo, Barve and swimsuits were sourced adapted it in the from Bandra in Mumbai form of intricate while the neoprene fabric, hand embroidery and used for only one outfit beading. The Trompe was from China. For the l’oeil patchwork other garments we used was revised into flat chiffons and polynosic illusionary effect by fabrics along with knits and using collages of jerseys on which we have different patterns and digital prints in our exclusive motifs. The beautifully patterns,” informs Agarwal. crafted silver jewellery Smriti Pratap was of the Tuareg tribe the other designer who Harsh Agarwal was reinterpreted in presented a great swimwear delicate beading. The line with all the right fabrics beaded corsets of ideal for fun in the sea or the Dinka men were in the pool. Using Lycra, translated with wooden polynosic and jersey as well beaded embroidery as georgettes and sheer on dresses. “I have cottons, she worked with Babita Malkani tried to bring onto the digital prints that revolved garments the effect around leafy florals and of fossils embedded geometrics to birds, horses, in the desert rock parrots and architectural DIGITAL PRINTS and the finely crafted motifs. “These prints have Babita Malkani’s cruise wear line. ‘Cosmic Revival’, ranged from lightweight necklaces and been my hotsellers for a few georgette, crépe and satin teamed with soft cotton and jersey along with a hint checked fabrics of seasons and they go very well of ribbed knits and fish net. “My fabrics are very basic but I like to treat them the Maasai clan as with the bikinis, monokinis, with digital prints created by me. Since the theme was celestial in nature, I appliqués, patchwork pareos, maillots, sarongs and had hand prints, scenes of the cosmos, celestial bodies and the Aum symbols. and embroidery on capes,” she said. The ribbed knits and jersey were ideal for some of my figure-hugging designs, coats, dresses, skirts Nachiket Barve while the fluid flowing styles were just right for the soft silks.” and gowns,” he added.

FIBRE2FASHION FIBRE2FASHION PARTY WEAR There is a lot of partying and occasions on the beach or at a resort so it is but natural that designers concentrate on some fun holiday ensembles that swing good for a rollicking evening out. Harsh Harsh from Harsh Gupta’s ‘Bird’s of Paradise’ collection was crafted in fabrics that matched the occidental silhouettes and construction. “We have used silk and polynosic as well as jacquards, satin, crêpes, georgettes, twills and tulles on which we have splashed 3dimensional floral embroidery and intricate textures. Since I travel around the world I picked up the jacquard, polynosic and twill fabrics from all over and the rest from the open markets in India. Most of the fabrics in my collections are normally solid colours on which I add textures like pleating, pintucking, gathers, rouching. For this collection I included 3D metallic flowers at strategic points.

Anupamaa Dayal

COTTONS FOREVER Goan hues of the sun, sea and fabrics is critical. For me voile The sheer cotton story for sand along with a profusion is the ideal choice and is very beachwear is ideal for the hot of large fragrant flower prints. important along with organdi temperature and designers ”I start with the level base and organza. I then like to treat love to play with it. The of white or ecru fabrics and the fabrics with prints and most popular choice for the then gradually build on them shaded colour effects and even collections was voiles in with texturing and prints add appliqués to highlight the different weights. Anupamaa according to my themes. I am design,” explains she. Dayal’s ‘Masti’ collection had primarily a resort and cruise colourful prints inspired by the wear designer so fluidity in Karn Malhotra Chirag Naini

Karn Malhotra was the other designer who catered to the party circuit during a resort holiday. Creating the perfect cool summery look, Malhotra worked with WINNING DESIGNS cotton blends, georgettes, cottons and Lycra with an anchor cluster motif print Akshay Kalmadi and Neha Bhogal of the ‘Paper Doll Company’ were winners of the Talenthouse contest organised by and colour blocking as the centre of attraction. Working with colours that are Talenthouse India, a part of Reliance Big Entertainment and Gionee India Beach Fashion Week held through ‘Fashion Recruits’. ideal for fun in the sun, Malhotra opted for green, white and pale champagne with Intricate textured lace and basket weaving of cotton fabrics along with vintage prints and detailing was added to the beach subtle glitter of traditional beads, thread work and rhinestones. “I prefer to create and resort wear. “We have manipulated the fabric by weaving strips of it to form an intricate mat-like pattern for our short tops. occasionwear, which goes well for any event. I try to texture the fabrics, mostly Besides that, pleating is a major detailing added to the georgettes to give a new texture to the sheer fabric,” inform the duo. imported, and accessorise with detailing like belts, shoulder patches and collars Chirag Naini, the other winner, used cotton in varying weights for shirt dresses, floppy tunics, slim trousers, deconstructed embellished with gold, metal chains and studs along with hints of brown faux shifts and culotte skirts. Using indigo dye in dhaba technique, he had a mélange of prints that ranged from checks, pinstripes, leather to make a strong fashion statement,” he emphasises. abstract florals to smudgy effects.

FIBRE2FASHION FIBRE2FASHION Harsh Gupta FRESH TALENT Harpreet and Rimple Narula’s ‘Love in For Riddhi and Siddhi Mapxencar, it was pure Designers Anjallee and Arjun Kapoor for Students of the Catalonia’ was created with flat chiffon, chiffon, crépe and georgette with stripers their ‘Persian Fantasy’ collection used fabrics Rachna Sansad lace, lamé and georgette and embellished added along with houndstooth designs to like velvet, tulle, silk, lace, and georgette in Institute of Fashion with zardosi, sequins, enamelled sequins, recreate the geometry of Japanese art which colours that ranged from pastels to jewel and Textile Designing asymmetric beads, metallic studs and was used as appliqués to highlight the tones, which were highlighted by texturing presented ten grommets all juxtaposed over laser cutwork. collection. with gold kasab, dabka, badla, mukaish and collections for men Kommal Sood’s ‘Amphitrite Collection’ gota work. and women. Aenasha concentrated on silk, flat chiffon, georgette, Safi used satin, Lycra tulle, taffeta and knits -- all in solid colours and georgette dyed of aqua, soft salmon, sun gold and lilac. The in blue, ombré beige fabric texturing was with mother of pearls, and champagne and sequins and stone clusters along with then added surface metallic appliqués. ornamentation and laser cutting for the floor length capes. Gunveen Chawla used silk, twill and unbutter crépe in shades of blue and turquoise for the serene line of sheaths and maxis and worked them with bead work. Nidhi Satra opted for georgette and soft denim and added prints inspired by botanical motifs and ikat, which were fused to give a modern twist to the ancient weave. Jigar Darji’s menswear line in cotton, linen, twill and knit had blazers, shorts, shirts and Tees where the designs were inspired by the East American Navajo tribe weave that was converted into a modernised print. Vibha Falguni and Shane Peacock Arora’s fabric choice was only pure crépe in shades of blue and purple but with a mix of cutwork and tie-and-dye BRIDAL FINERY on beach covers, long With destination weddings being a major part of the tube dresses and beach beach wear fashion week can bridal and wedding wear. trousseaux be far behind? But when it comes to Resham Bomma’s bridalwear, then it is net or tulle that tops the list for all linen, satin and designers. The sheer transparency of this fabric was the georgette collection highlight of many collections. Embroidered with zardosi, had prints and sequins resham, sequins, dyed, printed, appliquéd and painted, splashed on her beach yards of net was the most popular fabric for gowns, wear, while Harshali lehengas, long column tubes and even tiny cholis. Some Kommal Sood Kamble opted for of the other popular fabrics included velvet and lace. cotton knits, linen, ‘Runaway Bride’ from Falguni and Shane Peacock net and Lycra, which used tulle, satin, velvet and knits for Tees, which were were splash-dyed and teamed with elaborate lehengas. The texturing was with Anjallee and Arjun Kapoor screen-printed for the crystals, sequins, ombré colours and artistic prints in Riddhi and Siddhi tops and skirts. blue, red, and yellow.

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Rimple and Harpreet Narula