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Home , Chiffon (fabric), Dobby (cloth), Georgette (fabric), Nainsook, Plain weave, Pongee

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: , , , synthetics. Weave: Plain Characteristics: A light diaphanous fabric of silk, , etc Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted . The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille . Uses: After 5 wear, , scarves. Derivation of Chiffon: French from chiffe µrag¶

DEFINITION OF

Weave: Plain Characteristics: A thin silk or crêpe dress material. Usually done in silk but can also be found in manufactured . It is characterized by its crispness, body and outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face. Derivation of Georgette: Named after Georgette de la Plante (c.. 1900), French dressmaker

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton - also and called "Voilé de laine". Weave: Plain, loosely woven. Characteristics: A thin semi-transparent dress material of cotton, wool, or silk. Sheer and very light weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed yarns. To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voilé drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns. Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "Voilé de Laine" is wool Voilé. Uses: Dresses, blouses, curtains.

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Derivation of Voile: French, = VEIL

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton. Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs. Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse. Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial flowers, dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.

DEFINITION OF LA W N

Fiber: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: A fine or cotton fabric used for clothes. Word derived from Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than Voilé but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight luster it is called . Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, , collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs. Derivation of Lawn: Middle English, probably from Laon, a city in France important for linen manufacture

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton, also rayon and wool. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Named after Jean Batiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight,

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soft, semi- which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made of 100% distinguished by slubs in filling direction.

DEFINITION OF CHINA SILK

Fiber: Silk. Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric. Uses: Mostly for linings and under linings, and could be used for blouses.

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fiber, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832. Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes very well. Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be

3 printed. Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by Wamsutta Mills. Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons, and sheets.

DEFINITION OF

A printed cotton cloth superior to percale. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in color. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as "calico print".

Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts. Calicoes were first imported into Europe from India during the Renaissance and have since been manufactured in both Europe and the United States. Calico was especially popular in America during the 19th century. N.B. European definition is very different «

Fiber: Cotton Weave: Plain - usually a low count. Characteristics: Originated in Calicut, India, and is one of the oldest . Rather coarse and light in weight, generally bleached or white. Derivation of Calico: Named after Culicut a city on the coast of Malabar, India.

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colors. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called . Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric". Uses: , slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.

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DEFINITION OF

A smooth delicately woven cotton fabric, used for dresses and curtains. In the USA coarser cotton fabrics used for shirts and sheeting are also called . Derivation of Muslin: French Mousseline, from Mussolo, Mosul, a city in Iraq (Mesopotamia).

DEFINITION OF FLANNELETTE

Fiber: Cotton Weave: Plain and . Characteristics: A napped cotton fabric imitating . A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in colored stripes. Uses: Infants and children's wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.

DEFINITION OF FLANNEL

Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon. 1 a kind of woven woolen fabric, usu. without a nap. b (in pl.) flannel garments, esp. trousers. 2 Brit. a small usu. toweling cloth, used for washing oneself. Derivation of Flannel: perhaps from Welsh gwlanen, from gwl³n µwool¶

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: -dyed cotton fabric, usually striped or checked. Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colors, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders

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will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless pre-shrunk. Has a soft, dull luster surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count. Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pajamas. Derivation of Gingham: From Malay ginggang Lit. striped.

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton - some in rayon and silk. Weave: Plain, also or jacquard for designs. Characteristics: Originated in Madras, India and it is a very old cloth. Much of it has a plain colored background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it. Has a high thread count and fine. Made with combed or carded yarns depending on the quality. Some is mercerized to make it lustrous and durable. Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, color changes take place. Uses: Men's and women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.

DEFINITION OF CHAMBRAY

Fiber: Cotton Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the of different colors. Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and colored warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft coloring. Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight luster. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets. Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear. A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colors. Derivation of Chambray: From

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DEFINITION OF BURLAP

Burlap (or ) is used in for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in color. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as docotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and for backing or base fabric.

DEFINITION OF CREPE DE CHINE

Silk warp and Crêpe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable luster. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy Crêpe de chine is called "Canton Crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth. Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton made with a very fine crosswise rib weave. Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide . Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island.

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Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colors, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton. Weave: Plain or crosswise rib. Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except onacetate rayon. Uses: After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads.

DEFINITION OF TAFFETA

Fiber: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Usually plain with a fine cross rib. Characteristics: Lustrous silk or rayon fabric of plain weave. A cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) ad was called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain colors, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long as other high quality , since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack.

Uses: All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips, , blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric. Derivation of Taffeta: From Persian taftah silken or linen cloth

DEFINITION OF SHANTUNG

Fiber: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to , but has a more irregular surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a

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bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colors and also printed. Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats. Derivation of Shantung: Shantung, Chinese province, where it was originally made

DEFINITION OF POPLIN

Fiber: Cotton, wool, and other fibers. Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp as weft per inch. Characteristics: A plain- usu. of cotton, with a corded surface. Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high luster. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain. Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses. Derivation of Poplin: obsolete French papeline, perhaps from Italian papalina (fem.)

DEFINITION OF FAILLE

Fiber: Silk, rayon. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: A soft transversely ribbed silk or rayon fabric. Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than grosgrainbut in that family - ribs are also flatter than in . Some belongs to the Crêpe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish. Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats. Derivation of Faille: French

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DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: A heavy silken fabric with a mixture of cotton or wool. Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and . Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered or shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly. Uses: Evening wraps, formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after 5 wear. Derivation of Ottoman: French ottomane, fem. of ottoman OTTOMAN

DEFINITION OF

Fiber: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon. Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing. Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various qualities and weights. Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.

DEFINITION OF HOPSACKING

Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, , jute. Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2 x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth. Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights. Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.

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DEFINITION OF HUCKABACK

Fiber: Linen, cotton. Weave: Dobby or basket. Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colors, or colored borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency. Uses: Mostly used for toweling.

DEFINITION OF HONEY COMB

Weave: Float Characteristics: Its name comes from a French word meaning birds nest. Its patterns are regular and open. Honey Comb is found in many fabrics and is also known as Diamond Weave. Uses: Draperies, jackets and women's clothing.

METALLIC FABRIC

Fiber : Polyester , nylon , metallic

Pattern : Plain dyed

Style : Jacquard

Metallic fabric is is type of fabric. Metallic Fabric is widly used for garments and decorating.It's excellent in quality and beautiful in design . Advantage:it's excellent quality . Usage: it's widly used in garments and decoratings and packing etc. It is more lustrous fabric. It is a light weight fabric.

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POLYESTER

Polyester is a synthetic polymer . Fabrics woven from polyester thread or yarn are used extensively in apparel and home furnishings, from shirts and pants to jackets and hats, bed sheets, blankets and upholstered furniture. Industrial polyester fibers, yarns and are used in tyre reinforcements, fabrics for conveyor belts, safety belts, coated fabrics and plastic reinforcements with high-energy absorption While combustible at high temperatures, tend to shrink away from flames and self-extinguish upon ignition. Polyester fibres have high tenacity and E- modulus as well as low water absorption and minimal shrinkage in comparison with other industrial fibres.

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