Extension Bulletin No. 451 August 1951

Window Treatment

Extension Service. Institute of Agricultural Sciences The State College of Washington. Pullman. Washington Function of Window Treatment

Well-planned window treatment­ Controls the quantity of the light. Gives privacy. Frames a beautiful view or shuts out an unpleasant one.

Decoratiue Use of Window Treatment

Well-planned window treatment- Adds beauty through color, texture, and pattern. Harmonizes the colors in the furnishings with the background of a room.

REFERENCE: How to Make Curtains, Michi­ gan State College Extension Service. Window Treatment

By Lila B. Dickerson. Extension Home Management Specialist* Just as you consider a davenport or rug as an out-of-place piece of furniture, can spoil when refurnishing a room in your home, you the effect of an otherwise well-arranged room. should also plan your curtains or draperies Simple window treatments that are useful as carefully. Poorly used window treatment, just well as decorative are always a good choice. Choose Your Window Treatment The best window treatment for a room de­ The Size of a Room pends on the size, shape, and arrangement of If the room is small and you want it to ap­ the windows as well as the general character pear larger, choose draperies that blend with or of the room and its furnishings. match the color of the walls. Too much design In a room with elaborate furnishings you'll or color contrast divides the walls into small want to use more formal window treatment. areas and makes the room seem smaller. Choose lightweight, fine-textured, plain or small-pat­ For a room with simple furnishings, choose terned fabrics. These are in better proportion informal treatment. for a small room. In two adjoining rooms, you can gain a In a long, narrow room, full, wide drap­ more spacious effect if you use the same or eries break the length of the long wall. Color harmonizing materials and treatment in both contrasts in walls and draperies do the same rooms. thing. You also need to consider how your family Use deep valances to break the height in rooms with high ceilings. uses a room when choosing curtains or drap­ In large rooms you can use heavier mater­ eries. For example, if small children find the ials, plain or large-patterned. The colors may space near the windows a choice p~ace to play, contrast with the walls. you probably would not want draperies to the fl9or, or glass curtains. If you use the room for The Surface of the Walls detailed sewing or reading, you need a lot of Rough, coarse-textured materials are pleas­ ing against rough plaster walls. Smooth walls light. The hanging of the curtains as well as the need smoother-surfaced materials. material itself affects the amount of light which Many figures or patterns in a room make comes into the room. it seem smaller and create confusion and rest­ Admit as much light as possible into a lessness. The eye, however, must find enough dark room or subdue light and prevent glare in plain space for rest and enough patterns for in­ a very light room. terest.

• Acknowledgement is made to R.uth Smith, Chairman, Department of Interior Decoration, for her assistance in preparing this bulletin.

3 '•' Shades and Blinds

~ -~ - --- You can use curtains and draperies with or without shades. If you do not use shades, use curtains of a heavier material and hang them so you can draw them together for privacy.

Venetian Blinds You can adjust venetian blinds easily to allow light and air to come into the room. And when yvu use them in modern rooms, they emphasize the horizontal lines _of modern furnish­ ings. Today you can find them made of wood, steel, aluminum, and plastic. Vertical venetian blinds with slats that draw from side to side instead of up and down are new. They make a low ceiling appear higher.

Roll-up Blinds The color and texture interest of roll-up blinds are often needed to round out the furnishing plan of a room. Made of l slender strips of bamboo, plastic, and other interesting mater­ ials, they do not control light and air as well as venetian blinds.

Roller Shades Roller shades are useful to control light and air at windows. ------.) Fire-resistant window shades, coated with vinyl plastic which promises saf~ty and easy cleaning, are available. If the casing of the window is deep enough, shades look best fastened to the sash next to the glass. They must fit the window perfectly or the edges will be marred.

Bamboo Curtains You can now buy match stick bamboo curtains made on the vertical. They come in several widths and lengths, and are good to use as draw curtains. Although they come in natural or colors, you can dye them to fit in with your color scheme. 4 Fixtures

Choose well-constructed fixtures of the correct size to carry the weight of your fabric. Buy good hardware. And avoid ornate fixtures which attract attention from the draperies; Wooden pole. Fixtures held in place by screws are usually most satisfactory. In time Single rod. nails loosen and pull out under the weight of heavy draperies. You can attach them at the upper outside corner on window frames so curtains cover the woodwork. Curtain rods fastened Double rod. 4 to 6 inches above or at the sides of the window facing on small wooden blocks give the effect of Triple rod. a higher or wider window. Place your fixtures before you measure for your curtains or dra­ peries. The drawings on this page show types of fixtures. Traverse rod.

Bay-window rod.

Hook and eye track. 5 Changing Window Size and Shape

Often windows vary in size in a room or tures to this extension. Use a valance or a seem too short and narrow for today's styles, cornice board ro cover it (see page 13) . but you can change their appearance. Fasten To gain width, extend the top window board extensions or metal extender plates to frame with wooden blocks fastened to the wall the top and sides of the frame to gain height at the side of the window (see drawing below) . ·or width. To gain height, add a wooden extension Place extension rods or traverse rods at the top from 4 to 6 inches or more above the window outside corners of the blocks._Then hang your frame (see drawing below). Fasten the fix- draperies to hide these additions.

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To make a window appear higher. To make a window appear wider. Curtain Fabrics You'll find many new materials for cur­ allover brocades designed to go with plain tains in wide widths, new weaves and soft tex­ colors. tures, interesting patterns, and coordinated Among the new materials are cotton, nylon, colors. rayon, ninon, fiberglass, synthetic, and plastic Many of the new fabrics are wrinkleproof, fabrics. water-repellent, mothproof, and fade-resistant. Most of the new fabrics have been corre- Nylon 1a ted in color and design. Among them you can Nylon is a textile favorite because it is find stripes, plaids, floral patterns, prints, or soil-repellent and easy to care for. It 'needs 6 little or no ironing or stretching. Nylon fabrics Glass · Fabrics are being made for practically all types of Glass fabrics are a recent development. window curtains. They include casement cloth, These fiberglass fabrics hang softly, do not sag taffetas, damasks, brocades, organdies, and mar­ or wrinkle, are not weakened by sunlight, and quisettes. cannot burn. They stay clean a long time, be­ Plastics cause glass fiber does not absorb soil. Plastics are now available in attractive, Ninon moderate-priced curtains and draperies that are colorful and sunfast. Ninon, a moderately priced fabric, is, like Good style and design have been added to marquisette, a weave and fabric name·. Ninon plastics and they are durable, easy to clean, tailors and drapes beautifully, is washable, needs resist cracking and peeling, and are mildew­ no stretching, and only light pressing. proof. You can also find plastics which do not burn. Orion Plastics for draperies and slip covers are Orion is the most silk-like of the synthetic made with a cotton back to reinforce them. fibers. It resists sun, smoke, and gases better Then there are film or non-fabric-backed plas­ than any natural or other synthetic fiber. tics for unlined draperies and casement and kitchen curtains. Plastic patterns include stripes, prints, Rayon Fabrics plaids, and solid colors. Rayon fabrics continue to stay in the lime­ light because of their up-to-date styling, serv­ Metallic Fabrics ice qualities, and reasonable price range. Metallic fabrics are rayon, cotton, or wool­ en-warp fabrics with metallic filling threads Cotton of silver, aluminum, and copper. Thin alumi­ Cotton also continues as an all-time favor­ num foil is most widely used; it does not tar­ ite. It comes in materials that are wrinkle­ nish and you can iron and launder it. resistant, water-repellent, and fast-color. Questions to Ask When Buying 1. How can you clean them? 6. Is the pattern in proportion to the size of 2. Will the material shrink or stretch? your room and furnishings? 3. Is the material color-fast to sunlight and 7. Is the texture of the material similar to the washing? wall and other furnishings in the room? 4. Does it have the finish you need? Is it 8. Is it the best-quality material for the money crease-resistant, fire-resistant, and moisture­ spent? resistant? Is the finish permanent? Look for this information on the labels, 5. Is the color suitable to the room in which and ask the salesperson about any points not you plan to use it? covered on the label. 7 Measurements for Draperies

Before buying yardage, measure each win­ many standard windows vary as much as 1 dow accurate_ly. Be generous with the yardage, inch. Use a steel tape or yardstick, since a and buy all the material you need at one time. tape line often stretches and shifts. Skimpy hangings are not attractive. 2. For length1 measure from the fixture to the 1. Measure each window accurately, because floor, to the bottom of the window apron or 1' to the sill of steel frame windows. .:;: .,, ~\ ~· J 3. For the width} allow twice the width of the window. For side draperies, use a full width of drapery material at each side of a normal­ sized window ( 36 to 38 inches wide). For pull draperies, use twice the width of the l -.. window plus some fullness. 0 ~ ~ ~ 4. Allow for matching figures where designs ..s: ~ are large. ~,:: -\• ~ ; E ~ 5. Allow for hems and heading. Remember ! there are two side hems, one bottom hem, ~ and the top hem or heading.

JamJ, Hem and shrinkage allowances are as fol­ ' lows: 7 inches on each length for a 3-inch hem at the top and bottom, 2 inches for side hems. If side hems are made alike, you can inter­ ~a,lt s'.n ~~ change them as they wear more evenly. 1 1 A,ron. 6. If material is not preshrunk, allow 1 to 2 J inches per yard and sometimes more. Pre­ shrink new materials before cutting curtain lengths. You ca~ do this at home or send the material to a laundry.

7. To line draperies, sateen is good in white, cream, ivory, ecru, or beige. Measure the length from the base of the heading to the hemmed length of the drapery, adding % inch for the top hem and 2 inches for the Detail of window measurements. bottom hem. Allow % inch at each side. 8 How to Make Draperies

Draperies can be lined or unlined. Lining side seams. This leaves only the top and bottom prevents fading, makes them hang better, and hems to be done by hand. See number 2 and improves their appearance from the outside of 3 only. the house. It is best to make draperies by hand. l. Use 3-inch crinoline or lightweight buck­ 1. Straighten the crosswise edge of the material ram and as wide as the finished drapery. by pulling a thread. If you use printed Place the crinoline Y2 inch from the top edge fabrics, you may not be able to without spoiling the pattern. Do not "tear" materials. 2. Measure the exact length of the drapery, and add the amount allowed for top and bottom hems. If the material is not pre­ shrunk, add that amount also. 3. Pull a thread and cut. For printed materials, cut even with the pattern. Work on a large table or bed to keep the fabric flat. 4. Remove selvages; or clip partly through

the selvage on the slant, every 3 to 4 Fold the heading down. inches. 5. After you have removed the selvage~ straighten the material by pulling gently, stretching diagonally from corner to corner. Press before going on to the next step. 6. Baste down the center of the panel, or mark with tailor's chalk on the wrong side of the material. Lined Draperies Except for very thin materials, you ca1_1 machine-stitch the lining to the drapery for the Trim the front corners.

Turn in raw edges, miter upper corners. Turn Place crinoline Y2 inch from the top edge. a 2-inch side hem.

9 of the curtain and in from the sides the depth be 1 Y2 inches longer than the hemmed drap­ of the hems. Pin and baste. Machine-stitch ery to allow a bottom hem. Trim the sel­ if you wish. vages. Straighten the material and press. 2. Fold the heading down. Pin and baste. Trim Run a basting thread or mark down the the front corners of the fabric, and cut away center of the lining. Turn up 2 Y2 inches at any surplus at the top corners. Turn in raw the lower edge of the lining. Pin, baste, and edges and miter upper corners. For the side hem. hems, turn a 2-inch fold to the wrong side on each lengthwise edge; pin and baste. 3. For bottom hems, turn a 3 Y2-inch fold

Turn a 3 V2-inch fold across the bottom. Miter corner.

Drapery ready for lining.

5. Place the lining on top of the drapery with the w~ong sides together and with the lining Detail of catch stitch. hem about 2 in~hes below the top of the drapery hem. Be sure the center lines match. across the bottom, and baste. Miter the Fold the lining lengthwise on the exact corners to remove excess material. Use a center line. Pin and tack the center line of long catch stitch to secure h~ms. Finish the the lining to the center line of the drapery mitered corners with a blind stitch. A void with knot-stitches about 6 inches apart, having stitches show on the right side. keeping the thread loose. A wide drapery 4. The width of the lining should be the same may require five. rows or tacking. as the hemmed drapery. The length should 6. Turn in the raw edges of the lining at each 10 side. The drapery should extend at least Y2 inch beyond the lining. Pin, baste, and slip­ stitch to the drapery. 7. Turn in 1 inch at the top edge of the lining. Pin, baste, and slip-stitch to the top hem of the drapery. 8. Press. 9. Use any of the finishes suggested for the top of the drapery, page 12. Unlined Draperies For unlined draperies, use the same method except for turning the raw edges in and slip­ stitching in place. Be careful that stitches do not show on the right side. Most draperies should have weights of some type along the lower edge to hang well. There are three types you may ·use: ( 1) covered we.ight placed at the corners inside the hem and stitched in place; ( 2) the pin-on weight which

Place lining on drapery, wrong sides together.

Covering weight for drapery.

Finished weight for drapery.

you can remove when cleaning or laundering; ( 3) yardage weights which you can use for Tack lining to drapery. lightweight draperies. 11 finishes for the Top

French or pinch pleats are used most often for draperies, casement, and draw curtains. Measure the width of the hemmed curtain.

Box pleats.

and in the back to hold the pleats in a curved shape. Use these pleats for glass curtains with­ out draperies or for formal, heavy draperies. French pleats. Pipe organ pleats resemble cartridge pleats but are larger and longer. Each pleat is from Measure the space on the window to be 4 to 5 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep. Fill covered by the curtain plus 3 to 4 inches at the ends of the fixture. For draw curtains, ~dd 1 to 3 inches to the above measure. This allows for lapping at the center. Subtract the width of the space to be cov­ ered from the width of the curtain. This gives the number of inches available for pleats. Measure in 2 inches from the outside of the drapery to locate the end pleat. Place a pin marker at the top of the hem. Locate the center pleat. Space the others evenly from the center to the edges. Mark with Pipe-organ pleats. pins. The number of pleats is determined by the with rolls of cotton wrapped tn crinoline width of the material. strips. This type of pleat is used for long, Divide each pleat into three small pleats. wide windows tn a You may machine-stitch pleats the full width formal setting (see of the hem or top-stitch by hand just at the above). hem. Linen thread is good. After you have fin­ Box pleats are made in the same way ex­ ished making any kind cept that the tucks are simply pressed flat and of pleats, sew one top-stitched at the back. hook to the back of Cartridge pleats: These pleats are planned each cluster. For heavy and stitched as for French or box pleats (see fabrics, -use pin-in drawing above) . The pleat is tacked at the top hooks. Drapery hook. 12 Cornices and Valances Cornices and valances are top finishes for windows. They are used to cover fixtures, to change the apparent size of the windows, to connect a group of two or more windows, or to add color or pattern to a room. You can use them alone, with glass curtains, draperies, or both. A cornice is usually made of wood or metal.

Type of cornice board.

Cornice. dow to be sure the width and length are correct. You can paint it to match the wall or woodwork The height of cornices vary, but 4 to 8 inches or cover it with fabric (see drawing above) . are most common, except for a high-ceiling Cornices help correct poorly shaped windows. room. A closed top protects the curtains. Widen your window by extending the cornice A valance is a narrow length of material beyond the window frame. Add height by rais­ matching or contrasting with the draperies, ing the cornices several inches above the win­ usually tacked to a valance board. The simplest dow frame. type of valance board is a wooden shelf about Before cutting a cornice, make a paper pat­ 4 inches deep and Y2 inch thick, ~ither screwed . tern the type you want, and try it on the win- or nailed on the top of the window casing.

Types of cornice boards. 13 Buckram foundation.

4. From the pattern, cut a buckram founda­ tion the exact size of the valance. 5. Cover with a cotton flannel inner-lining. 6. Cover with drapery fabric, allowing 1 inch for seams. 7. Turn the raw edges over the buckram and cotton flannel foundation. Baste.

Valance board.

Lining for valance. The depth of a valance is about one-sixth to one-tenth the length of the curtain. Take 8. Cut a lining the exact size of the valance into consideration the size of the window and and turn the raw edges in so the lining is the height of the ceiling. And figure the exact Y2 inch from the outside of the valance. depth by making a paper pattern the correct 9. Pin in position and slip-stitch in place. If shape. the valance has curved sections, the drapery Valances may be gathered, pleated, draped, and lining need to be clipped at the curves. or fitted. 10. When the valance is finished, sew a piece A gathered valance is made with a heading of twill tape across the top. Tack this tape and casing, as for glass curtains, and is mounted on a separate rod. The fullness depends on the weight of material used. A pleated valance is made like a pleated finish on draperies, and tacked on the shelf­ type valance board. Plain, fitted, or shaped valances are de­ signed to fit the window and the fabric. Sew twill tape across the top. 1. Determine the shape of your valance and with thumb tacks to the valance board. Or placing of the motifs if there is a design in your fabric. Begin from the center of the you can attach the valance to the board valance. with wood snappers. 2. Measure so one side is exactly like the A formal, dignified room may have a draped other. valance. A draped valance is simple and easy. to 3. Cut a pattern and try it against the window make. The length of material needed is the before cutting into your fabric. width of the window plus the length of the 14 jabots (about 36 inches) . The width of the valance should be about 36 inches or one full

;' I I / Cut the ends on the bios. width of material. Cut the ends on the bias (see drawing above). To make, remove the selvages and hem the sides, using a slip stitch. Hem the Drapery pleated over holder. bias ends, using a 2-inch hem. Adjust the valance in pleats over the holders, and draw valance pleaters to make draped valances. Direc­ tightly across the top (see drawing at right) . tions for using these fixtures come with the You can also buy drapery fixtures or pleater (see drawing below) .

Pleated valance. 15 Glass Curtains

Materials ·for simple glass curtains include marquisette, scrim, voile, dotted swiss, cotton net, theatrical gauze, fish net, casement cloth, raw silk, batiste, and many others. For elaborate glass curtains, fine net, lace, silk gauze, chiffon, ninon, celanese, and spun glass are all used. The most suitable colors are cream, ivory, I . ecru, and white. Choose plain or simple designs, I :I since they admit a lot of light, are easier on the eyes, and blend with the other furnishings. The amount of light in a room should influence the size of the mesh or closeness of the weave. Detail for making top hem.

How to Make Glass Curtains 1 Y2-inch heading (see drawing above). For tailored curtains, measure each window 5. If the bottom hems are made the same depth accurately with a yardstick or steel tape. Stand­ as the top hems, you can reverse the cur­ ard windows may vary as much as an inch. tains. For glass curtains that are floor length, The length of glass curtains may be to the however, you may want a shadow hem of sill, apron, or floor. Measure from the curtain 5 or 6 inches in depth at the bottom. rod to the desired length. Then allow 19 inches 6. A 2-inch tuck gives a shrinkage allowance for a 3-inch shadow hem for the top and of 4 inches. Run it in by hand on wrong bottom plus 2 inches for shrinkage. For a side, just below the hem at top of curtain. deeper hem at the bottom, allow extra material. Glass curtains should be at least one and a Ruffled Curtains half to two times the width of the window for Measure and cut as for plain or tailored fullness. Extra sheer curtains should be two curtains, with no allowance for a hem at the and a half to three times the width of the bottom. The ruffle takes the place of rhe bot­ window. tom hem. Ruffles put on both sides of the cur­ Curtains hung as a pair are always more tain are interchangeable. A valance of a sep­ convenient than a single curtain or a panel. arate matching ruffle makes an attractive top. You may put in the hems at the sides, top, and The style of the curtains determines the bottom by hand, or stitch on the machine with width of the ruffles, and varies from 3 to 8 a long stitch and a slightly loosened tension. inches or more. The length of the ruffles Use matching thread of the proper weight. should be one and a half to two times the 1. Remove selvages before cutting material. . · length of the edge to which you attach the 2. Draw a thread across, if possible, as a cut­ ruffle. ting guide for each length. Finish the edge of the ruffles with a narrow 3. Make shadow hems on each side. Turn 1 hem or machine-picoted edge. Use a French, inch of material back twice onto the wrong flat-felled, or lapped seam to join the ruffle · to side of the curtain. Pin, baste, and hem. the curtain. 4. Turn 3 inches back twice for top hems. If you use tie backs, either plain or ruffled This permits a 1 Y2-inch casing for rod and ones made of the curtain material are best.

P ublished and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of M ay 8 and June 30, 19 14, by The S tate Coll ege of Washi ngton Extension Ser vice, E. V. E llington, Direct01·, and the U. S. Department of Agn culture cooper atm g . (lOm-851)