AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF Clothing, Textiles Susan Houston Fortune for the . M. S. in and Related Arts (Name) (Degree) (Major) Date thesis is presented 1174,y, //, j76_1-- Title SELECTED "ROVANA" (SARAN), "VEREL" (MODACRYLIC), AND RAYON BLEND DRAPERY FABRICS EVALUATED BY LABORATORY TESTS FOR RESISTANCE TO LIGHT, LAUN- DERING, ABRASION, STRESS AND FIRE Abstract approved (Major professor Thirteen fabrics containing "Rovana" (saran), "Verel" (mod - acrylic), and rayon were examined for colorfastness to light and laun- dering, shrinkage, tensile strength, elongation, abrasion -resistance and flammability. The fabrics represented three weaves: plain, twill and leno; and three colors: white, eggshell and turquoise. The fiber contents, according to the manufacturers, varied from 20 per- cent "Rovana ", 56 percent "Verel" and 24 percent rayon to 49. 3 "Rovana ", 30. 5 percent "Verel" and 20. 2 percent rayon. Chemical analysis revealed that all of the fabrics varied from the manufacturers' stated fiber contents. A Fade -Ometer was used to test for colorfastness to light. Although no fading was visible to the eye, the plain weave fabrics of high "Rovana" content showed the greatest color change according to a Gardner Color Difference Meter. White fabrics and broken twill weave fabrics were modified also. Washing had little effect on the colors. Shrinkage was most pronounced in the filling direction and was due chiefly to laundering. Fabrics fabricated in a broken twill weave of approximately 30 percent "Rovana" exhibited slightly more shrink- age than the four percent allowance recommended by the American Hotel Association. The remaining fabrics shrank only approximately one percent. Fabrics appeared to be most affected by 63. 5oC temperatures in an oven during the first 50 hours according to a heat study which measured shrinkage and tensile strength, but generally the effect was slight. There was considerable variation in tensile strength of the fil- ling yarns but the percentage retained after Fade -Ometer exposure and launderings was good. The "Rovana" warp yarns were slightly less strong but retained more strength. Fabrics of high "Verel" content showed the greatest elongation in the filling direction and fabrics of high "Rovana" in the warp direc- tion. Loss of body was noticed as a result of abrasion, with loose weaves and fabrics of high "Rovana" content being affected the most. All of the fabrics proved to be flame -resistant as they would not support combustion. As a result of this study, these fabrics, particularly the plain weave fabrics containing 30 percent "Rovana ", 50 percent "Verel" and 20 percent rayon, are recommended for home and institutional use. SELECTED "ROVANA" (SARAN), "VEREL" (MODACRYLIC), AND RAYON BLEND DRAPERY FABRICS EVALUATED BY LABORATORY TESTS FOR RESISTANCE TO LIGHT, LAUNDERING, ABRASION, STRESS AND FIRE by SUSAN HOUSTON FORTUNE A THESIS submitted to OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE June 1965 APPROVED: Assistant Prbfessor of Clothing, Textiles and Related -Arts In Charge of Major Head of Department of Clothing, Textiles and Related Arts Dean of ' raduate School Date thesis is presented //,) // /ff. Typed by Susan Carroll ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Gratitude is expressed to my advisor, Mrs. Janet L. Bubl, Assistant Professor of Clothing, Textiles and Related Arts, for her guidance and encouragement throughout the study. The author wishes to thank Miss Ida Ingalls, Professor and Head of the Clothing, Textiles and Related Arts Department. Thanks are also given to Dr. Anna Creekmore, Associate Professor, and Miss Phyllis Grant, Assistant Professor, of Clothing, Textiles and Related Arts. Appreciation is also expressed to Mr. Thomas Adams, Oregon State University Department of Housing, for his assistance in pro- curing the fabrics. Thanks are also given to Miss Bernice Mollenhoff of Eastman Chemical Products, Inc. for her contribution of Montgomery Ward fabric. Thanks are also given to Mr. Jerry Siskin of Lazarus Fabrics for the contribution of several testing fabrics. In addition,the author wishes to thank Dr. Lyle Calvin, Professor of Statistics and Head of the Department of Statistics, for his assistance with statistics and Mr. George Varseveld, Assistant Professor of Food Science and Technology, for his assistance with the color dif- ference meter. Thanks are given to Miss Mabel Merrell for her assistance with some of the laboratory work. To my husband, John, the author gives sincere thanks for his encouragement and patience throughout the study. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page INTRODUCTION 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 2 "Rovana" 2 "Verel" 4 Rayon 7 Lightfastness 10 Launderability 15 Abrasion- Resistance 17 Tensile Strength and Elongation 20 Flammability 21 PROCEDURE 23 Selection of Fabric and Fabric Analysis 23 Preparation of Specimens 25 Lightfastness 26 Evaluation of Lightfastness 27 Heat Study 28 Laundering and Shrinkage 29 Abrasion -Resistance 30 Tensile Strength and Elongation 31 Flammability 33 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 35 Description of Fabrics 35 Colorfastness 39 Shrinkage 45 Heat Study 49 Tensile Strength 50 Elongation 64 Abrasion -Resistance 72 Flammability 75 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 78 BIBLIOGRAPHY 84 APPENDICES 92 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Stitching of hem for abrasion specimens 30 2. Flammability Apparatus 33 3. Heat Study - Tensile Strength (Filling) 51 4. Heat Study - Tensile Strength (Warp) 52 5. Tensile Strength (Filling) 53 6. Tensile Strength (Warp) 54 LIST OF TABLES Table Page 1. Fiber properties 10 2. Manufacturers' fabric description 24 3. Description of fabrics 36 4. Fiber content of fabrics expressed as percent by weight 38 5. Analysis of variance for color change due to Fade - Ometer exposures and washing 40 6. Mean differences in color change after Fade - Ometer exposure of plain weave fabrics (ap- proximately 30 and 50 percent "Rovana ") . 41 7. Mean differences in color change after Fade - Ometer exposure of plain and leno weaves (ap- proximately 30 percent "Rovana ", 50 percent "Verel" and 20 percent rayon) 42 8. Mean differences in color change after Fade - Ometer exposure of plain, broken twill and leno weaves (approximately 30 percent "Rovana ", 50 percent "Verel" and 20 percent rayon) . 43 9. Mean differences in color change after Fade - Ometer exposure for twill and plain fabrics of high "Rovana "content 44 10. Analysis of variance for shrinkage due to Fade- Ometer exposure and washings 47 11. Shrinkage of heat samples (63.5°C) (Mean measurements) 50 12. Analysis of variance for mean breaking strength (lbs yarn) 56 Table Page 13. Tensile strength of filling yarns of plain weave fabrics containing approximately 30 and 50 percent "Rovana" 57 14. Tensile strength of filling yarns of plain and leno weave fabrics containing approximately 30 per- cent "Rovana ", 50 percent "Verel" and 20 per- cent rayon 58 15. Tensile strength of filling yarns of plain and twill containing a high "Rovana" content 59 16. Tensile strength of warp yarns of plain weaves containing approximately 30 and 50 percent "Rovana" 61 17. Tensile strength of warp, plain and leno weaves containing approximately 50 percent "Rovana ", 50 percent "Verel" and 20 percent rayon 62 18. Tensile strength of warp yarns of plain, broken twill and leno fabrics containing approximately 30 percent "Rovana ", 50 "Verel" and 20 percent rayon 63 19. Tensile strength of warp yarns of plain and twill fabrics containing a high percent of "Rovana" 63 20. Analysis of variance for elongation due to Fade - Ometer exposures and washing 65 21. Elongation of plain weave fabrics containing ap- proximately 30 and 50 percent "Rovana" . 66 22. Elongation of plain and leno weave fabrics con- taining approximately 30 percent "Rovana ", 50 percent " Verel" and 20 percent rayon . 67 23. Elongation of plain, broken twill and leno weave fabrics containing approximately 30 percent "Rovana ", 50 percent "Verel" and 20 percent rayon 69 Table Page 24. Elongation of plain and twill weave fabrics con- taining a high "Rovana" content 70 25. Percentage weight loss caused by abrasion 73 26. Analysis of variance - percentage weight loss from abrasion 74 27. Flammability test 76 SELECTED "ROVANA" (SARAN), "VEREL" (MODACRYLIC), AND RAYON BLEND DRAPERY FABRICS EVALUATED BY LABORATORY TESTS FOR RESISTANCE TO LIGHT, LAUNDERING, ABRASION, STRESS AND FIRE INTRODUCTION Recent years have brought many advances in the field of textiles including the production of several new man -made fibers as well as improvements in natural fibers. The economic importance of the man -made fibers is illustrated by the fact that the consumption of man -made fibers increased from 327 million pounds in 1956 to 600 million pounds in 1962, constituting a rise from 21. 8 percent to 33. 2 percent of the textile market (51, p. 60). "Rovana" (saran) and " Verel" (modacrylic) are among the many new fibers produced and have been found to give desirable hand, tex- ture and appearance in combination with rayon. Fabrics of "Rovana ", "Verel" and rayon, said to be flame resistant, were of special in- terest to the university housing department; however, little informa- tion was found concerning other properties of the combination. In an effort to assess the fabric, it was decided to measure fading, shrink- age, abrasion resistance, tensile strength, elongation and flamma- bility, and evaluate in terms of fiber content, weave and color. It was felt that such research would benefit the university in further selection of drapery fabrics for