INTRODUCTION
TEXTILE FIBERS ARE RAW (STRUCTURAL)
MATERIALS UTILIZED IN PRODUCING CLOTHING,
DOMESTI C AND 1 NDUSTR IAL PRODUCTS.
THESE STRUCTURAL MATERIALS MAY BE
NATURAL OCCURR I NG OR MAN-MADE FROM
NATURALLY EXISTING MATERIALS OR TAILORED
FROM BASIC ORGANIC OR INORGANIC COhlPONEi 1 WHAT 1s A FIBER 7 . MATERIAL CHARACTERlZED BY 1. HIGH LENGTH TO. DIAMETER RATIO, L/D (.AT LEAST 1000 TO 'I) 2. LOW BENDING RIGIDITY. ~EKYY LEXT~LE 3. SMALL DIAMETER ( IO TO 200 MICRONS ) (0.0005 TO 0.01 INCHES) FOR USE AS TEXTILE MATERIAL, MUST' ALSO HAVE SOME MINIMUM. 4 7 POLYMER I ZAT I ON MO N 0 RERS -y POLYMERS MONO - ONE MER - UNIT POLY - MANY POLYMERIZATION - CONNECTING TOGETHER MONOMERS (SMALL MOLECULES 1 THIS IS THE BASIS FOR THEIR SPECIAL BEHAVIOR . THAT CONTRASTS THEM TO SMALL MOLECULES MACR 0MOLECULAR HYPOTHESIS HIGH POLYMERS ARE COMPOSED OF COVAL,,EECT STRUCTURES MANY TIMES GREATER IN EXTENT THAN THOSE OCCURRING IN SIMPLE COMPOUNDS ,AND THIS FEATURE ALONE ACCOUNTS FOR THE CHARACTERISTIC PROPERTIES WHICH S€T THEM APART FROM OTHER FORMS OF'MATTER 4 The Character or personality of any textile structure, end-use product, i. e., its appearance, texture, handle, wear performance, mechanical properties, etc., is generally influenced by four factors: 1. The fiber or blend of fibers used 2.' Yarn structure or structures - size, twist, etc. 3. Fabric structure - weave, knit, non- woven 4. Type finish or finishes - color added, chemical andlor mechanical finish 5 FACTORS INFLUENCING THE USE OF A PARTICULAR 'FIBER IN A TEXTILE 1. ABILITY- OF A FlBER TO BE CONVERTED TO A YARN AND THEN TO A FlNlSHED PRODUCT. 2. AVAILABILITY OF THE FIBER. 3. COST OR ECONOMICS OF PRODUCTION. .-- 4. PUBLIC ACCEPTABILITY AND DEMAND .I .I MOLECULAR PROPERTIES YARN STRUCTURE FAERIC STRUCTURE FABRIC PROPERTIES I END-USE BEHAVIOR FIBERS---YARNS---FABRIC---END-USE 7 GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS ... I . ITEXTILE FIBERS ' 1 r I I NATYRAL I 7 Cellulose Protein Organic Base Base * , - L-rlI Aa best on I I I Hemp ligncq Hair Silk {\eG( Jute Alpaca 1 Ramie bU0% sb,) Camel -Leaf Cashmere Llama Mohair Protein Base Nylon._ *. \=\ Nytril Arlon * * Olef /n;F Alginate Polyester * Rubber flubber* * Saran ;t Spandew * Vinal Vinyon * *Generic classif icotion based on chemical composition -Textile Fiber Products ldentiflcation Act. ISourca: 1971 Annual Book of ASTM Standards 2Vagoiable 3A n imal i NATURAL FIBERS AND THE1 R PROPERTIES CLASS IF I CAT ION OF COTTON A. GFIADE" COLOR ----- LEAF PREPARATION B. STAPLE. LENGTH * * C, MICRONAIRE FINENESS *'* . CHARACTER, A DESCRIPTIVE TERN OR VALUE INDICATING _- FINENESS AND OTHER QUALITIES; WAS CSEC AS PART 9F CtASSIFICATION FOR MANY YEARS, ** OFFI c I AL STANDARDSAVA I LABLE *** PREflIUM AND DISCOUNTS ARE USED, \e&& c*\ UJ -. COTTON (A VEGETABLE FIBER) PHYSICAL PROPERTIES LONGITUDINALVIEW 150 TO 400 TWISTS OR CONVOLUTIONS PER INCH 2. LENGTH - 1/8 TO 24 INCHES - LONGER FIBERS ARE EGYPTIANAND SEA ISLAND - MOST AMERICAN COTTONS RANGE FRorq 3/4 - 1-3/8 INCHES 3, COLOR - WHITE, .CREAM COLOREDJ GRAY, BROWN ~,,,~j~~sBccrcsse tu~%.rr 4, LUSTER - VERY LITTLE UNLESS MERCERIZED 5, STRENGTH - 3,O TO 510 GRAMS PER DENIER . MERCERIZED COTTON IS STRONGER 10-2Ox STRONGER WHEN WET 6, ELASTICITY - NATURAL TWIST INCREASES ELASTICITY - ELASTIC RECOVERY 70 TO 74 AT 2% = ELONGATION 3 TO 7. PERCENT 7, RES I LI ENCY - LOW 8, MOISTURE ABSORPTION - 7-10% ~eo~urr\ ss3c *,.' uoo\ kukL4.C c~~(jPcbd 9, HEAT - SCORCHES AND TURNS BROWN AT 475% - DISENTEGRATES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE - WITHSTANDS HOT WATER UP TO 212 F - DRIED AT 160 TO 2oo'F 10, SPECIFICGRAVITY - 13 (DENSE) CHEF1 I CAL PROPERTI ES - EASILY DAMAGED BY STRONG ACIDS - HIGH RESISTANCE TO ALKALIES - LOSES STRENGTH UNDER PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO ULTRAVIOLET RAYS OF SUNLIGHT FLAX (A BAST VEGETABLE FIBER) 5.c:&s"i b'JT c- ("j \Ih'?>LontT $-J MucA vA*L(i_ A'i. c, L r, "t *t W-J CP ktCR. COMPOSITION ABOUT 70 - 80% CELLULOSE, REMAINDER IS NATURAL IMPURETIES PHY S I CAL PROPERTI ES 1, MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE SMALL FIBERS CEMENTED TOGETHER RESEMBLES A BAMBOO POLE CONTAINS A LARGE CENTRAL CANAL 2, LENGTH ~ GOOD FLAX SHOULD AVERAGE 20 IN. CUT TO PROCESS WITH OTHER FIBERS 31 COLOR YELLOWISH TO GREY 4, LUSTER GREATER LUSTER THAN COTTON ALMOST SILKY IN APPEARANCE 5, STRENGTH MUCH STRONGER THAN COTTON 5.5 - 6.5 GRAMS PER DENIER 6, ELASTICITY NOT VERY ELASTIC 2% ELONGAT I ON 8 1 MO I STURE ABSORPT 1 ON 10-12% HIGHER THAN COTTON g1 HEAT SIMILAR TO COTTON 10 I FLAMMABI L I TY BURNS RAP IDLY 1l1 ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY Low 12, SPECIFICGRAVITY 1.50 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES EASILY DAMAGED BY STRONG ACIDS HIGH RES I STANCE TO ALKALI ES LOSES STRENGTH IN PROLONGED SUNLI GHT -_,. I COMPOSITION LARGELY PROTEI rj PHY S I CAL PROPERTI ES 1 , Pi1 CROSCOP I c APPEARANCE LAYER OF SCALES ON OUTER SURFACE LAYER UNDER SCALES ARE SOFT AND SPONGY WHICH ABSORBS WATER AND DYES, 2, LENGTH 1 - 20 INCHES, MOST BEING 1 - 8 INCHES 1 - 3 INCH FIBERS IN WOOLEN YARNS 4-8 INCH FIBERS IN WORSTED YARNS 3, COLOR VARYING DEGREES OF WHITENESS SOME GRAY, BROWN, AND BLACK WOOL 4, LUSTER POORER GRADES OF WOOL HAVE HIGHER LUSTER 3 5. STRENGTH f"l,UCH LESS THAN COTTON LOSES 10-20% OF ITS STRENGTH WHEN WET 6. ELASTICITY VERY ELASTIC CAI4 BE STRETCHED 30% WITHOUT WEAKENING 1c -- 7, RESILIENCY SPRINGS BACK IF CREASEa OR CRUSHE3 8, MOISTURE ABSORPTION 162 AT 65% RELATI?/€ HUMIDITY Ai43 70°F g1 ',iATER I BOILINGWATER BREAKS DOWN WOOL IF aOILE3 CG2 A LONG TIME LUSTER AND STRENGTH IS RECUCED 10, HEAT- LOSES MOISTURE WHEN HEATED IN DRY AIR AT 212 TO 230°F FOR OVER A PERIOD OF TIME BECOI*!!F:G HARSH WITH LOSS OF STRENGTH IN MOIST AIR AT 212°F) WOOL BECOMES PLASTIC 11 FLAMMAB I L I TY BURNS SLOWLY AND IS SELF-EXTINGUISHING 121 ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY POOR CONDUCTOR 13, SPECIFICGRAVITY 1,34 COMPARAT I VELY L I GHT 1 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES NOT EASILY DAMAGED BY ACIDS VERY EASlLY ATTACKED BY ALKALIES SUNLIGHT BREAKS DOWN AND WEAKENS WOOL L COMPOSITION PROTEI N PHYSICAL PROPERTIES . 1, MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE 2, LENGTH 1300 0 2000 FT, 3. COLOR YELLOW TO GRAY 4, LUSTER VERY HI GH 58 STRENGTH STRONGEST OF THE ANIMAL FIBERS 6, ELASTIClTY HIGH - 20% OF ORIGINAL LENGTH 78 RESILIENCY RANKS NEXT TO WOOL 8, MOISTURE ABSORPTION 11% 9, SPECIFICGRAVITY 1.25 (LESS DENSE THAN COTTON, LINEN, AND WOOL) CHEMICAL PROPERTIES GOOD RESISTANCE TO MOST ACIDS MORE RESISTANT TO ALKALIES THAN WOOL NOT VERY RESISTANT TO STRONG LIGHT 17 -- MAN MADE FIBERS AND THEIR PROPERTIES I' ACETATE CELLULOSE ACETATE; TRIACETATE WHERE NOT LESS THAN 92% OF THE CELLULOSE IS ACETYLATED ACRYLIC AT LEAST 85% ACRYLONITRILE UNITE ARAMID POLYAMIDE IN WHICH AT LEAST 85% OF THE AMIDE LINKAGES ARE DIRECTLY ATTACHED TO TWO AROMATIC RINGS,~ AZLON REGENERATED NATURALLY OCURRING PROTEINS GLASS GLASS MODACRYLIC LESS THAN 85% BUT AT LEAST 35% ACRYLONITRILE UNITS- NOVOLO ID AT LEAST 85% CROSS-LINKED NOVOLAC NYLON POLYAMIDE IN WHICH LESS THAN 85% OF THE AMIDE LINKAGES ARE DIRECTLY ATTACHED TO TWO AROMATIC RINGS NYTR I L' AT LEAST 85% LONG CHAIN POLYMER OF VINYLIDENE DINITRILE WHERE THE LATTER REPRESENTS NOT LESS THAN EVERY OTHER UNIT IN THE CHAIN OLEFIN .._AT LEAST__ 85% ETHYLENE) PROPYLENE, OR OTHER OLEFIN UNITS POLYESTER AT LEAST 85% ESTER OF A SUBSTITUTED AROMATIC CARBOXYLIC ACID) INCLUDING BUT NOT RESTRICTEG TO SUBSTITUTED TEREPHTHALATE UNITS AND PARA- SUBSTITUTED HYDROXYBENZOATE UNITS RAYON REGENERATED CELLULOSE WITH LESS THAN 15% CHEMICALLY COMBINED SUBSTITUENTS SARAN AT LEAST 80% VINYLIDENE CHLORIDE SPANDEX ELASTOMER OF AT LEAST 85% OF A SEGMENTED POLYURETHANE VI NAL AT LEAST 50% VINYL ALCHOL UNITS AND AT LEAST 85% TOTAL VINYL ALCOHOL AND ACETAL UNITS VI NYON AT LEAST 85% VINYL CHLORIDE UNITS 19 DISADVANTAGES SLOW (70 - 150 YDS/MIN> WASH I NG TO REROVE IflPUR IT I ES SOLVENT AND CHEMICAL RECOVERY- ADVANTAGES LARGE TOWS CAN BE HANDLED 20 DRY SPINNING TYPICAL DRY SPUN FIBERS.. .* A;s>~ve1% 0 ACETATE ( ACETCNE SCLVENT) TRIACETATE (METHYLENE CHLORIDE) ORLON ( D I METHYL FORPIAM I DE 1 SPANDEX (SOME) (DTMtTHYL FORMAMIDE) DISADVANTAGES FUNPIABLE SOLVENT HAZARDS SOLVENT RECOVERY SLOW (-?) (200 - 400 YDS/MIN) I -b -b ADVANTAGES - YARN DOES NOT REQUIRE PURIFICATION . NELT SPINNING . DISADVANTAGES - SEPARATE DRAKING STEP (UNLESS SPIN DRAN) - 404- ,,,Gjv%-L\ (.5 nd4- sqhnJJc ADVANTAGES - HIGH SPEED (275 TO lSOO 'fDS/MIN) (4000 YDS/MIN SPIN DRAW) - NO SOLVENTS - NO PURIFICATION PROBLEMS 22 EXlRUSIoN OF PN-FWE FIBERS %- (SPINNING P”ETHODS) a. Wet Spinning WET SPINNING - RAYON Codot Wheels PQlymer Feed Tank Pump Spin Bath Spimeret b. Dry Spinning DRY SPINNING I-PUMP SPINNERET AIR OUTLET- EVA PORAflOH CHAMBER HEATTN6 XKET AIR INLET C. lie It Spinninq MELT SPINNING LRET 24 TEXTILE FIBER PARAMETERS Fibroufi materials should po8.e~. certain properties for them to be useful as textile raw materials. Those propertier which are essential for acccpkance a6 a suirable raw material may be classified as 'sprimaty properties, I*while those which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and it8 U8e may be classified as "secondary propertier. " 1. Primary Properties a. Length; length-width ratio b. Tenacity (strength) e. Flexibility (pliability) d. Acc'eptable Extensibility for processing e. Cohesion f. Uniformity of properties 2. Secondary Properties a. Physical shape (cross-rection, surface contour, etc. 1 . b. Specific Gravity (influence weight, cover, etc. ) C. Moisture Regain and Moisture Absorption (comfsrt, static electricity, etc. ) d. Elastic character - tensile and compression e. Thermoplasticity (softening point and heat-set char acter ) f. Dyeability g. Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicalb, . m i c ro - o r go n i sms , and e nv i r onmen t a 1 c o ndj t i ons h. Flammability i. Luster Note: Cost ir always a factor to consider. i b e m a wa 4 0a L n tn I- 3 wz 0 2: a J 0 iz \ -\c Key Fiber Properties Determined by Polymer Composition and Structure L Melting Point 2 Modulus . 3. Elasticity and Recovery from Strain - 4. Tensile Strength -5. Density 6. Moisture Absorption 7. Dyeability 8.; Comfort 17 EXAL!PLES OF FIBER SHAPS ...... 9. *:.+ a-:. ,...-.:.: :: ... FLAT OVAL, OVAL TO TRIANGUW, CIRCULAR, LUMEN ROUND, OVER- ROUND EDGES, UNiFORM IN CONVOLUTIONS LAPPfNG UNIFORM IN DIAMETER COTTON SCALES, MAtJ-hUDES NYLON,DACFI 'ON --MEDULLA SILK, NYLON CUPRAMMOHi1UH WOOL TYPE 90 OACiiON RAYON TYPE 62 2::': .... -.-e::.. .. Gz7...... -.:.:.. Ud DOG- BO?:€ LENGTHWISE Y- SHAFED RIBSON- SHAPED ' ORLON, STRlATlONS CELkCtOUD DYNEL VEREL, ACETATE TYPE 20 LYCW AETATE cU3ULOFT Yt.OFJ MUSiROOM LIMA BEAN, TRILOeAL (eicowmm SERRATED ANTROS OWN SAYELLE AVRfL RAWH NYLON VISCOSE RAYON COtlAPSEO TUBE, tiOtLOW CENTER AVLIN RAYON, VINAL SF , DENSITY AND SPECIFIC GRAVITY' -Fiber Dens itv (alcc) Natural Fibers cotton L 52 F1ax L 52 Siik LE Wool ' L 32 Man-made Fibers Acetate L 32 Acrylic L 17-L ia Armid L 38-L 44 Flu rocarb n 22 Glass 2 49-2 73 Modacrylic L 30-L37 Novo loid L35 Nylon L 14 Nylon Qiana L 03 Olefin 0.91 Polyester L 22 or L35 R ayo n L M-L52 Saran 1.70 Spandex 1.20-L 22 Vinyon L 33-1 35 'Ratio of weight of a given volume of fiber to an equal volume of water. 29 A650R6ENCY -Fiber Moisture Reaain' Natura1 Fibers Cotton 7-11 F?ax 12 Silk I1 woo i U- 18 Man-made Fiters Acetate 6.0 I Arne! triacetate 3. 2 Acrylic L 3-2 5 Aramid 4.5 Fi urocar bn 0 Glass oil. 3 Modacrylic 0.4-4. 0 ' Novoioid 5.5 Ny io n 4.0-4.5 Nylon Qiana 25 Olefin 0.OPO. I Polyester 0.4-0.8 R ayo n 15 Rayon HWM 11 5-U Saran 0. 1 Spandex 0.755 3 Vinyon 0.5 'Moisture regain is expressed as a percentge of the moisture-free weight at 70' Fahrenheit and 65% relative humidity. HEAT AND TEXTILE MATERIALS IMPORTANT CRITERIATo CONSIDER 1, SOFTEN I NG, MELT I NG, OR DECOMPOSITION TEMPERATURES, 2. TENDENCYOF THE FIBER AND FABRIC TO SHRINK WHEN HEAT-RELAXED, OR STRETCH WEN HEATED-ANDTEmSTONED~ 3. ABILITY OF THE FABRIC TO BE HEAT~ETI 4, ABILITY OF THE FABRIC TO FUNCTION PROPERLY AT ELEVATED TEMPERATURES IN ONE TIME OR REPEATED USE, 5, ABILITY OF THE FABRIC TO FUNCTION FROPERLY AT RGOM TEMPERATURE (OR SOME OTHER LOWER TEMPERATURE) AFTER EXPOSURE AT HIGH TEMPERATURE FOR A GIVEN PERIOD OF TIME. - KASWELL 5: Y 8cv 0 c,c c 0 -e 0 v) LL, v)ua 8 0 N -= . - 0 -aa E cv U 0c vl 0 a0 m ..I CL c 0 0 L c s Lowest sclling on irons: 185-225' F. ,- COMPARATIVE FIBER PROPERTIES - EFFECT OF ACIDS ACRYLIC Resistant to most acids I MODACRYLIC Resistant to most acids POLY ESTER Resistant to most mineral acids; disintegrated by 96% sulfuric RAYON Disintegrates in hot dilute and cold concentrated’acids ACETATE Soluble in acetic acid, decomposed by strong acids TR IACETATE Similar to acetate U W L V aJ c ro c 7 W .-m 3 L Q) c -0 0 cr= W a .. .. COMPARATIVE FIBER PROPERTIES - EFFECTS OF ALKALIES 0 ACRYLIC Oestroyed by strong alkalies at a boil. Resists weak alkalies MODACRYLIC Resistant to alkalies POLYESTER Resistant to cold alkalies. * Slowly decomposed at a boil by strong alkalies RAYON No effect by cold, weak alkalies. Swells and loses strength in concentrated alkalies ACETATE Saponified. little effect from cold weak alkalies TR I ACETATE Not effected up to pH 9.8, 205'F. Better than acetate a .. - COMPARATIVE Fl BER PROPERTIES - EFFECTS OF ALKALIES NYLON (66) Little or no effect OLEFl N Very resistant CLASS Attacked by hot weak alkalies and concentrated alkalies COTTON Swells when treated with caustic soda but is not damaged WOOL Attacked by weak alkalies, destroyed by strong alkalies . COMPARATIVE FIBER PROPERTIES - EFFECT OF ORGANIC SOLVENTS ACRYIIC Unaffected MOOACRYL I C Soluble in warm acetone, otherwise unaffected ) 1 POLY ESTER Soluble in some phenolic compounds, 0th er w ise unaffected RAYON Unaffected ACETATE Soluble in acetone, dissolved or swol en by many others TR IACETATE Soluble in acetone, chloroform and swollen by others i COMPARATIVE F) BER PROPERTIES - EFFECT OF ORGANIC SOLVENTS NYLON (66) Generally unaffected, soluble in some phenolic compounds OLEF I N Soluble in chlorinated hydrocarbons above 16OoF. GLASS U naf fected COTTON Resistant WOOL Generally resistant c 0 c aa .- c L c. m I tu c v) L m 0 -0 .- a Y, 0 x a Q) u L In .- > Cr, ua ‘0 L c L 0 0 aa - 3 c w m L 0 (0 - aa a c x c c * c 0 aa m - m CI 0, c m c U c ‘a L 0 ‘L 0 cn 0 c - c Y, 0 aa L c u L aa 0 v) e c .- m c - m U 0 m m m 0 aa c 0 m U 0 c m L a 0 m Q)L A v) c €3 (P Q) om . L c, aa L -0 m c Q c E u ‘X cp m m U c. c Q) aa m v) aa c c .- m 0 .cI )4 .- aa v) - 0 & 7a a aa a m Wl 0 L L m 0 c c - - E t 0 L 0 m .- m V 0 X L m L 0 m .- aa cu L .- ‘0 E c a m 0 aa CI a 0 v) c3 a = 7 w a w < t w I- w VI I + W a 0 7 ). 0 c a 0 .oc Q 2 ). w - A 0 0 0 a 0 pz > a =E e = a + 7 'I 1'I aa L 3 VI 0 v) Q w x - aa t Qs w e 0 U e U, w m -c CI m c Q) Q) L c c. v) z m 0 2 LA t 0 a 0 0 c3 0 3 RAYON (A CELLULOSIC MAN-MADE FIBER) COMPOSITION REGENERATED CELLULOSE PHYSICAL PROPERTIES 1, MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE - STRIATIONS SEEN IN VISCOSE AND HI GH-STRENGTH RAYON, 1 F DELUSTERED, SCATTERED SPECKS OF-PIGMENT CAN BE SEEN, 2, LENGTH - FILAMENT AND STAPLE 3, COLOR . - TRANSPARENT UNLESS DULLED BY PIGMENTS 4, LUSTER - HIGH UNLESS DELUSTERING ?IS;,’ENl‘ ADDED 5, STRENGTH FAIR TO EXCELLENT REGULAR RAYON HAS FAIR ST;iE?:C HIGH TENACITY TYPES HA’dE CC23 TO EXCELLENT STREF!GTH 6, ELASTICITY - REGULAR RAYON IS LOW HIGH STRENGTH RAYON IS ECC3 7, RES I LIENCY - HIGH WET-STRENGTH RAYON IS BETTER 8, No I STURE ABSORPTION - HIGHER THAN NATURAL CELLULOSE FIBERS SWELL IN WATER WEAKER WHEN WET 9, HEAT - LOSES STRENGTH ABOVE 300°F DECOMPOSES BETWEEN 350 AND I;Oc’f 10 I FLAMMAB I LI TY - BURNS RAPIDLY UNLESS TREATE3 11 I ELECTR I CAL CONDUCTIVITY - FAIR - STATIC CHANGE CAN BE REDUCED WITH SPECIAL FINISHES SPECIFICGRAVITY - 1,52 (SIMILAR TO COTTON) CHEMICAL-c PROPERTIES- (SIMILARTO COTTON) EASILY DAMAGED BY STRONG ACIDS RESISTANT TO ALKALIES, REDUCTION IN STRENGTH IF CONCEN- ---- TRATEC LENGTHY EXPOSURE TO SUNLIGHT WEAKENS THE FABRIC- GREATER AFFINITY FOR DYES THAN COTTON ACETATE (A. CELuLosI c MAN-EADE FIBER1 . COMPOSITION '. . . ACETATE ESTER OF CELLULOSE.I PHYSI CAL PROPERTIES .l1 MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE - STRIATIONS FARTHER APART. THAN VISCOSE RAYON, LOBED CROSS-SECTION 2# LENGTH - FILAMENTAND STAPLE 3, COLOR - TRANSPARENTUNLESS DULLED , BY PIGMENTS 41 LUSTER - BRIGHT, SEMIBRIGHT, OR DULL 5, STRENGTH - MODERATE, LESS THAN RAYON WH*EN WET, 6, ELASTICITY - NOT VERY HIGH, SIMILAR TO RAYON .7 I. RES I L.IENCY - POOR 8, MOISTURE ABSORPTION - 6%, LITTLE STRENGTH LOSS WHEN WET 9, HEAT - IRONING TEMPERATURES OF . 275'F ARE SATISFACTORY 10 I FLAMMABILITY - SLOtrLY COMBUST I BLE 11 ELECTRI CAL CONDUCTI v I TY- GOOD 12; SPECIFIC GRAVITY - la32 CHEMTCAL PROPERTIES * CONCENTRATED STRONG ACIDS WILL DECOMPOSE IT, STRONG ALKALIES WILL DAMAGE ITa LONG EXPOSURES TO SUNLIGHT PRODUCE A WEAKENING EFFECT , ACRYLIC (A WOOL-LIKE FIBER) COMPOSITION ACRYLONITRILE AND SMALL AMOUNTS OF OTHER MONOMERS PHY S I CAL PROPERTI ES 1, MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE UNIFORM AND SMOOTH SURFACE IRREGULAR SPACED STRIATIONS 21 LENGTH - MAINLY A STAPLE FIBER 3, ,COLOR - WHITE TO OFF-WHITE 4, LUSTER - BRIGHT, SEMIDULL, OR DULL 5. STRENGTH - FAIR TO GOOD STRENGTH 6. ELASTICITY - GOOD 7, RESILIENCE - GOOD 8, WATER ABSORPTION - 1-3% 9, HEAT - YELLOWING MAY 0C.CUR ABOVE 300°F SOFTENING OR STICKING ABOUT 450°F 10. FLAMMABILITY- BURNS WITH YELLOW FLAME 11. ELECTR~CALCONDUCTIVITY - FAIR TO GOOD 12, SPECIFiC GRAVITY - 1,14 TO 1.19 GOOD BULK AND COVERING POWER CHEMICAL PROPERTIES DAMAGED ONLY BY STRONG CONCENTRATED ACIDS NOT NORMALLY AFFECTED BY ALKALIES VERY RESISTANT Td ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT NYLON (A POLYAMIDE FIBER) . COI'!POSITION NYLON 66 - POLYHEXAMETHYLENE ADIPAMIDE NYLON 6 - CAPROLACTUM PHYSICAL PROPERTIES lo f'?ICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE - VERY SMOOTH AND EVEN 2, LENGTH - FILAMENT AND STAPLE 3, COLOR - OFF WHITE 4,l LUSTER - HIGH NATURAL LUSTER CAN BE CONTROLLED 5, STRENGTH - EXCEPTIONALLYHIGH (60,000 - 108,000) POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH 6, ELASTICITY - - EXCEPT I ONALLY HIGH 7, RESILIENCY - VERY GOOD 8, MOISTURE ABSORPTION - 308% 9, HEAT - HIGH RESISTANCEo FELTS AT Q82"F 10 FLAMMAB I LITY - MELTS SLOWLY DOES NOT SUPPORT COMBUSTION 11, ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY- LOW, GENERATES STATIC 1Z0 ,SPECIFICGRAVITY - 1,14 (LOW DENSITY) CHEMICAL PROPERTIES WEAKENED BY CONCENTRATED STRONG ACIDS HIGH RESISTANCE TO ALKALIES LOSES STRENGTH IN PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO SUNLIGHT - BRIGHT YARN MORE RESISTANT THAN DULL YARN 45 POLY ESTER (MOST VERSATILE FIBER) COMPOS IT1ON COMBINATION OF TEREPHTHALIC ACID OR DIMETHYL TEREPHTHALATE AND ETHYLENE GLYCOL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES 1, MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE - SMOOTH) EVENJ RODLIKE, DIFFERENT CROSS-SECTIONAL SHAPES 2. LENGTH - FILAMENT AND STAPLE 3, COLOR.- WHITE 4, LUSTER - BRIGHT OR DULL 5, STRENGTH - GOOD TO EXCELLENT 6, ELASTICITY - FAIR TO GOODJ GREATER THAN COTTON OR RAYON . 7, RESILIENCY - EXCELLENT- 8, MOISTURE ABSORPTION - LESS THAN 1% 9, HEAT - SOFTENING OR STICKING TEMPERATURE IS ABOVE 400 'F (THERMOPLASTI c 1 10, FLAMMABILITY - BURNS SLOWLY 11, ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES - ACCUMULATES STATIC CHANGES 12, SPECIFIC GRAVITY - TYPICALLY 1.38 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES GOOD RESISTANCE TO MOST ACIDS GOOD RESISTANCE TO MOST ALKALIES GOOD SUNLIGHT RESISTANCE 'POLYESTER FIBERS PRODUCTION OF POLYESTER .L i Moisture Sof terrlrig Specific Tenacity Tenacity (wet) regain E lo ngation Met ti ng Gravity (per cent) (Der cent) Point (Fo) COTTON 1.5 - 1.55 3.0 - 4.9 3.3 - 6.4 7-8 3-7 none (SMOO~F-445" ACETATF 23 24 1.3 - 1.5 1.2 - 1.4 6 - (ml 500°F ACRYLIC 1.16-1.18 2.0 - 3.6 1.6 - 2.9 1.5 - 2.5 35 - 39 '5) 420°F GLASS IS 1 13%- 1560°F 2.50-2.55 9.6 -19.9 6.7 -19.9 none -3. 1 - 5.3 NYLON 66 1. 14 3. o - i. 2 2.6 - 6.. 1 4.2 - 4.5 16 - 66 POLY ESTER 1. 38 2.2 - 6.6 2.2 - 6.6 0.4 - 0. a 12 - 67 RAYON, HT 1.50 1.53 3.0 5.7 1.9 4.3 13 9 - 26 0 - - - - ~ DNM WOOL 1.31 1- 1.5 16 30 - 40 DNM SllK 1.25 3-5 11 25 _2511r4QQ I . ... 5UMMARY OF PROPERTIES DESIRED FOR TEXTILE FIBERS APPAREL AND DOMESTIC REQUIREMENTS 1. Tenacity: 3 - 5 grams/denier. 2. Elongatjon at-break: 10' - 35%. \ 3. .Recovery from elongation: 100% at strains up to 5%. 4. Modulus of elasticity: 30 - 60 qrams/denier. 5. Moisture absorbency: 2 - 5%. 6. Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening point) : above 215'C. ,7. . High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric structure) 8. Dy ea. b 7 e. 9. Low fl ammabi 1i ty. 10. Ins'oluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids and *bases and conventional organic solvents from room temperature to 10Goc 11. Ease of care.'. INDUSTRIAL REQUIREMENTS 1. Tenacity: 7 - 8 grams/denier. 2. Elongation at break: 8 - 15%. 3. Modulus of elasticity: 80 grams/denier or more conditioned, 50 prams denier wet. 4. Zero strength tempeFature: 25OoC or above. EEH - Fiber Science I I. FIBER' PROPERTIES- AFFECTING FABRIC PROPER77S FTBEX PROPERN COMR18UTES TO FAERTC PROPERTY aRA2nn nv,w4?- is the ability of a Ourabi 1 i ty fiber to withstand the rubbing or abra- Abrasion res i s tance sion it gets in every day use. - Resistance to splitting pb4o~be~cuO/L tnuh2wte xes& is the per- Comfort, warmth, water repellency, centage of moisture a bone-dry ff ber absorbency, static buildup will absorb from the air under standard Oyeabi 1 ity , spotting conditions of temperature and-moisture. Shrinkage Wrinkle resistance Aghgxe6A-e I Storing of fabrics chemid fieactivity is the effect of Care required in cleaning--bleaching, acids, a1 kal.i, oxidizing agents, sol-. ability to take acid or alkali finish? 3 vents Cohc4bivenebh is the abil ity of fibers1 to Resistance to ravel cling together during spinning. Not im- portant i n contnuous f i 1ament. -Coven is the ability to occupy space Warmth Jn fabric for concealment or protection. Cost--1 ess fiber needed Cue is del ayed el asti ;i ty. Recovers Streak dyeing and shiners in.fabric dallyfrom strain Deudp-see Speci6Lc GmvLty UuabU is the fibers' receptivity to Aesthetics and colorfastness dnby dyes EeLLblti~xecovay is the ability of fibers Processabi 7 i ty of fabrics to recover from strain Resi 1 i ency FeebZicitu is the ability of a stretched Delayed el asti ci ty or creep material to return Inmediately to its original size. I- Fiber Property Contributes to Fabric PtoDerty . (COrtt.1 EXeaYrLad conduc.tLu~ Poor conducti vi ty causes fabric to to transrer electrica cling to the body, electric shocks Ebn &on is the ability to be 'Increases tear strength +, stre c e extended, or lengthened. 'Reduces' brittleness Varies at different temperatures Provides "give" and stretchiness and-when wet or dry. Fe&zWy refers to the ability of Fabrf cs can be made directly frcn fibers to mat together .f i bers Speci a1 care requi red furi ng washing dFQLumKzW is the ability to ignite Fabrics burn , Hand is the way a fiber feels: silky, Hand of fabric harsh, soft, ,crisp, dry He& condudvity is the abil ity to Warmth conduct heat away from the body Heat denb.LaXv.Lty is the ability to Determine safe washing and ironing sorten, melt, or shrink when sub- temperatures jucted to heat. *Hrrdto kieic, hygkoAcopic--bek ab- Lubta is the light reflected from a Luster -surtace. More subdued than shine: light rays are broken up Lo t or compressional resiliency is the Spri ngi ness, good cover -4ab1 ity to spring back to original .Resistance to flattening thickness after being compressed Uitdew /~ui~&nce Care during storage hlotf! Irebhtance Care during storage Flber Property Contributes to Fabric Property is the balling up of fiber ends Pilling %%e surface of fabrics. Unsightly appearance SweciXic qmv& and d&y are Warmth without weight measures of the weight of a fiber. Density is the weight in grams per cubi c centimeter, and speci f c gravity is the ratio of the mass of the fiber" to an equtl volume of water at 43~ Sar(r(ne6s on hiq.iditfi is the opposite of Body of fabric flexibility. It is the resistance.to Resistance to insertion of yarn bending or creasing. * twist Stnenalth is defined as the ability to Ourabil ity, tear strength, sagging, .resist stress and is expressed as pi11 i ng tensi 1e strength (pounds per square Sheerer ,fabrics possible with strong inch) or as tenacity (grams per fine fibers denier). SUI.&& &ebA&nce is the ability to Ourabil ity.of curtains and draperies, withsrand degradation- from direct outdoor furniture, outdoor carpeting sunlight. Resists rupture from deformation, gives frictional resistance lrlickin is the ability of a flber to Makes fabrics comfortable __q_trans er moisture along its surface. ' . FI BER BLENDS - SOME REASONS FOR BLENDING TO FACILITATE PROCESSING TO IMPROVE PROPERTIES: a. ABRAS I ON RES I STANCE ' h STRENGTH c ABSORBENCY d. ADD BULK AND WARMTH e, HAND f, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY g. RESISTANCETO WRINKLING TO PRODUCE MULTI -COLOR FABRl CS TO REDUCE COST 53