4> ~ -,' , :':':;"TEXA'S- AGRICULTURAL , EX-TEN ' . ... -:>-.~ -~•• ,....,~ hi.t~.' ~ ___ '>::"'" - 'J. E .. 'Hutchison, 'Director, College:.shlt~QP" Texas GRAHAM HARD NENA ROBERSON RHEBA MERLE BOYLES FANNIE BROWN EATON

EXTENSION CLOTHING SPECIALISTS

The A. and M. College of Texas THE CHARACTERISTICS OF FABRICS which . give 3. Fabrics made of chemically treated , them the virtues of quick drying, crease re­ and . The resin finishes are the most sistance, little or no , keeping their orig­ commonly used. These finishes should last the inal shape and size during use and care, retaining normal life of a garment. a look of newness and fresh crispness after being worn and cleaned continuously also create sewing FABRIC SELECTION difficulties. The surface often is smoother and The best guides in the selection of quality harder which makes the fabric less pliable and fabrics are informative labels of reputable manu­ more difficult to handle. These qualities can facturers. Good quality finishes add to the cost cause seams to pucker. Even in the softest blends of fabrics, but compensate for the extra cost in there is a springiness which requires more care in durability and appearance. handling ease, as in the sleeve cap. Each fabric presents different problems. Look Wash-and-wear fabrics may be divided into at the fabric and feel it. Is it closely or loosely three groups: woven? Is it soft and firm, or stiff and wiry? 1. Fabrics woven or knitted from of Will it fray? What style pattern do you have in 100 percent man-made . These fabrics, if mind? properly finished, are highly crease resistant and The correctness of fabric grain is important keep their original shape and size during use and in sewing. If the fabric grain was distorted at care. any point in the process, the fibers will 2. Fabrics woven or knitted of yarns made be locked in the off-grain position and Gin not be of blends! or combinations2 of fibers. These straightened. The off-grain condition is not as blends or combinations may be of all man-made noticeable in solid colors or in all-over prints fibers or of man-made and natural fibers. A with no regular repeats as with plaids or prints certain proportion of the proper man-made having a regular design at right angles to the must be present in every blend to insure the de­ selvage. Use this simple test to see if the design sired qualities. Some of the recommended blends is at right angles to the selvage: Unroll about 1 are as follows: yard of fabric from the bolt. Fold about % yard of the fabric back orr itself with the right side of 65 % Dacron - 35% Cotton the fabric on top, carefully matching selvages, 50% Dacron - 50% Cotton Figure 1. The design should be parallel to the 70% Orlon - 30% Rayon folded line if it is straight with the grain of the 80% Acrilan - 20% Cotton fabric. 70% Acrilan - 30% 55 % Dacron - 45% Rayon 80% Orlon - 20% Cotton PATTERN SELECTION 70% Orlon - 30% Wool Select patterns for wash-and-wear fabrics with 70% Acrilan - 30% Rayon as few and as inconspicious seams as possible. 65 % Dacron - 35 % Linen A void intricate tucking and decorative edge 55 % Kodel- 45% Rayon stitching. Seams on a slight bias have less tend­ ency to pucker than do long, straight-grain seams. IBlends are the result of spinning together two or more Sometimes it is impossible to ease the excess full­ fibers, such as wool and , into one . ness such as that in the sleeve cap. A sleeve cut 2Combination is the result of together two or more types of yarns, such as six yarns of wool and two in one with the bodice may be a wise choice. of dacron. Another combination is warp yarns of one Pleats and/or darts give ease with less apparent fiber and the filling yarns of another. bulk than do gathers. 3 Zippers with tape made of man·made are not available to consumers. The cotton of a zipper may not dryas readily as fabric of man-made fibers. Thread may be of mercerized cotton or made. Mercerized cotton is used more often cause it is available in a wider selection of in more stores.

CUTTING It is important to the fit of the and make any necessary alterations before a ment is cut. This will keep any changes in to a minimum after the garment is cut. off-grain fabric is purchased, either solid FOLOJ all-over prints, the straight grain marking of Figure 1. pattern should be placed on the lengthwise of the fabric and the crosswise grain will be There are some wash-and-wear fabrics such regarded when cutting the garment, Figure When the fabric is plaid or has a regular as , soft-textured crepes or other soft fab­ in a print design, the plaid or print design, rics which are satisfactory for soft fullness such than the grain, is followed, Figure 3. The as gathers. ment made from such fabrics may not be factory, but these are suggestions for cutting FINDINGS-TRIMMINGS for the best possible results. For a garment to be wash-and-wear, each com­ Use fine-pointed dressmaker pins to hold ponent part must have the same qualities as the pattern to the fabric. If the fabric pin basic fabric of which the garment is made. place pins in the seam allowance of the Shoulder pads which can not be cleaned by the or use very fine needles. same method as the garment should be remov­ Cut carefully with sharp shears and use able. smooth strokes.

Figure 2. Figure 3. 4 If the fabric frays badly, additional seam al­ stitching on wash-and-wear fabrics. It should be lowances may be added as needed for finishing checked before construction begins on any gar­ the seams. ment. A slightly loose tension is needed for these fabrics. In fact, many sewing machine tensions MARKING are tighter than necessary for all fabrics. To get Accuracy is important when transferring pat­ a looser tension, first adjust the top tension. Then tern markings to the fabric. For smooth-sur­ it may be necessary to loosen the tension screw faced, solid color fabric, the tracing wheel (with­ on the bobbin case until the stitch is in balance out carbon) often is sufficient for marking. If and locks in the center of the seam. carbon is used, choose a color that will not show To loosen the tension and achieve a balanced through. Select a clay dressmaker's chalk because stitch on a machine with a removable bobbin wax chalk sometimes is difficult or even impos­ case, use the following procedure: sible to remove from wash-and-wear fabrics. When needle holes are not easily removed from 1. Work with mercerized thread, since this fabric, mark such areas as the center front by test involves breaking the thread. hand basting, using a fine needle and thread. 2. Remove bobbin case with bobbin in cor­ PRESSING rect position inside, and hold it suspended by the thread, Figure 4. If instructions for pressing are given with the fabric, follow them. To press most wash-and­ wear fabrics, use a steam iron, set for steam, or use a warm dry iron and press cloth. To deter­ mine the correct method for pressing and the tem­ perature to use, make tests on a scrap of fabric before pressing the garment. Press seams and folds only after you are sure of final seamlines because once a crease is made it is almost impossible to remove the marks com­ pletely. When sewing wash-and-wear fabrics, as with all other fabrics, press carefully as the con­ struction progresses-step by step. SEWING The key to success in sewing lies in the prop­ Figure 4. er handling of the sewing machine. The instruc­ tion book for the machine is your best guide. a. The tension is correct if the bobbin case Techniques for stitching and machine setting rides slowly down the thread (you may should be selected to suit the characteristics of the encourage slightly) . fabric being sewn. Always test the machine stitch b. The tension is too tight if the bobbin case on a scrap of the fabric that you plan to sew be­ hangs in midair. Loosen the tension fore stitching on the garment. screw. Run the machine at an even speed. The ma­ c. The tension is too loose if the bobbin case chine should be run more slowly for fabrics of drops instantly. Tighten the tension screw man-made fiber than for other fabrics. Hold fab­ as needed. ric firmly when stitching, without pushing or pull­ ing. 3. Replace case with bobbin in the machine. Use a throat plate with a round hole when 4. Turn the top tension screw to position 3. stitching wash-and-wear fabrics. This position may vary with the machine. Tension 5. Use scrap of fabric that you plan to sew, The proper tension on the machine is the big­ and make the following stitching test to find our gest single factor in improving the appearance of if adjustments are necessary to achieve a balanced

5 Figure 5. Figure 7.

stitch. This test should be made for each type of uniform length of stitch and to prevent the fabric. from creeping to the side as the seam is stitched. The pressure should be light enough to feed a. Fold a 6-inch square in half, forming a fabric without marking the underside of it. triangle. Make a line of stitching parallel to and about lh inch from the diagonal When the two layers of a seam do not travel fold, Figure 5. at the same rate of speed, the result is b. Grasp the line of stitching between the seamlines and the appearance of one being eased to the other. thumbs and forefingers (thumbs about 2 inches apart). Pull evenly until the thread To test the pressure on the presser foot: breaks, Figure 6. 1. Cut two strips, about 2" x 12" of the fab­ c. The top and bobbin threads should break ric you are sewing, with the long edges on at the same point or points if the stitch is lengthwise grain. balanced perfectly. It may be necessary to make repeat tests and adjustments in ten­ 2. Carefully smooth out the two strips, keep­ ing the edges even. sions before you get the balanced stitch. 3. Pin the strips together about 1 inch from Pressure the end nearest you. Pressure on the presser foot should be regu· lated to accommodate the texture, finish and 4. Now stitch down to the pin, stitching the thickness of the fabric being sewn. With the in­ longer edges, Figure 7. creasing use of man-made fibers, as well as the 5. If a bubble forms at the pin, the two new finishes for fabrics, correct pressure suited to strips are not traveling together, which means the each fabric is more important than ever. The pressure is too great for that fabric. pressure should be heavy enough to maintain a 6. Adjust pressure and repeat test until the two strips of fabric travel evenly.

Stitch Length, Thread and Needle Sizes The length of the stitch should be adjusted for the fabric being used. Select the needle and thread to suit the fabric to insure a perfect stitch. Too large ·a needle will leave holes in a closely . Too fine a needle will not make a large enough hole and the thread will become frayed. The thread also should pass freely Figure 6. through the eye of the needle. 6 FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART

Sewing Number of Thread Size Machine Machine TYlle of Fabric Stitches Needle Size per inch

FILMY Comparable to , , , , chif­ 100 cotton Extra fine 12 to 16 fon, , nylon sheets, silk . 00 and 000 silk Size 9 000 and 0000 mercerized SHEER Comparable to lawn, , man-made sheets, silk 80 to 100 cotton Very fine 12 to 15 or man-made tricots, man-made and , o silk Size 11 nylon crepes. Nylon 00 or 0 mercerized LIGHTlf/ EIGHT Comparable 'to , chambray, , broad­ 60 to 80 cotton Fine 12 cloth, man-made dress crepe, sheer wool crepe, taff­ A and B silk Size 14 eta, silk surah. A or 50 mercerized MEDIUlvI LIGHTWEIGHT Comparable to pique, , faille, , wool 60 to 70 cotton Fine 12 jersey, dress linen, featherweight suitings, cotton A or 50 Size 14 , fashion . mercerized MEDIUM HEAVY Comparable to , textured fabrics, cot­ 40 to 50 cotton Medium 10 ton , heavy , coating, suiting, un­ Heavy duty Size 16 bleached or sheeting. mercerized HEAVY Comparable to sailcloth, sturdy denim, , coat­ 30 to 45 cotton Heavy 8 ings, drillcloth. Heavy duty Size 18 mercerized VERY HEAVY 40 to 60 linen Very heavy 6 Comparable to , duck, overcoating. 20 to 24 cotton Size 19 Plastic. 50 mercerized Very fine 10 Size 11

FABRICS REQUIRING SPECIAL HANDLING cut. When stitching, hold fabric firmly with both hands, guiding the material under the presser : Since felt has no grain, it can be cut foot and stretching slightly, without pulling. The in any direction. Edges such as hems do not have slight stretching prevents stitching from breaking to be finished because felt will not ravel. Lining in the seams. Use 12 to 14 stitches per inch, with fabrics or iron-on tape can be used when double a medium tension. thicknesses are required, as for a skirt belt. Keep tension easy and use a fairly long stitch. : Use a medium-long stitch. A lace .garment often is completely lined or backed, but FUR CLOTH: First, hand baste seams to­ you can retain the sheer quality by backing the gether to prevent slipping; then machine stitch. lace with marquisette or . If the garment is Smooth out of seams on right side of fabric not lined or backed, use matching color tulle or with a needle. Use hooks or loops for fastenings. marquisette for facings. Transparent horsehair A lining should be used in preference to facings. gives a good hem finish. Rayon or very light­ JERSEY: To prevent stretching, work on a weight cotton tape may be stitched in seams which long flat surface. Pin pattern securely on wrong are bias or where there will be points of strain. side of fabric to keep edges from rolling when If the garment is backed, the tape may be omitted. 7 METALLIC FABRICS: When met a 11 i c CREPE: Crepe is soft, and has a threads are woven with other fibers for a touch to stretch, so avoid undue strain when of glitter, no special care is necessary, other than Make allowance for some stretch in the pressing with a moderately hot iron. When fab­ and allow garment to hang before marking ric contains a high percentage of metal, guard hemline. Press lightly, protecting the fabric against pin marks by placing pins in seam allow­ all times with a press cloth. ance. These fabrics have a tendency to ravel, so : When you work with avoid buttonholes when possible, and overcast the seams might pull up slightly when seams if necessary. Test a scrap of fabric before and this pucker mayor may not press out. touching an iron to your garment. also may find that the needle pierces the PLASTIC FABRICS: Machine stitch care­ with difficulty, sometimes pulling a heavy fully, using fine needles, long stitches, loose ten­ So use a very fine machine needle and stitch sion. Flat fell finishes add strength to seams. ly. If the seam still puckers, stitch through per, either brown paper or tissue paper, placlOg SHEER F ABRICS: Some sheers, such as it under the seam. This can be torn away easily , need tissue paper backing for added when stitching has been completed. firmness. Place tissue paper under double thick­ ness of fabric; then pin pattern on top. Cut : While satin has no obvious pile or through all four thicknesses. Staystitch bottom , light reflection on its surface gives it a sheen. piece of fabric to tissue, top piece to pattern. This is due to the weave, which provides long Handle tissue and fabric together when cutting, lustrous threads on the surface. Because this basting and stitching. sheen reflects light differently when in different positions, satin should be cut with all pieces VELVET: Special handling of velvet is placed in the same direction, as if it were a nap necessary because of its pile construction. Follow fabric. Even when cut in this manner, difference layout for fabric with nap, and make sure you in sheen sometimes may be apparent when bias lay all pattern pieces in one direction. (You get and straight sections are joined. a richer color if the pile runs up, toward the face, Special care must be taken when cutting and for example.) Use fine pins and needles to pre­ sewing satin because it is slippery. When cutting, vent marring the fabric. Hand baste seams to­ be sure that the right sides are together and pin gether firmly; then use longer than average ma­ the pattern securely. If the satin shows a tendency chine stitches. Avoid outside machine stitching. to slip when you ate cutting it, use a double row Press with velvet board or lightly with cloth over of pins-one in the margin and one in the seam top of iron. allowance. Fine pins (silk pins) or fine needles VELVETEEN AND CORDUROY: The placed parallel with the lengthwise grain will not same rules that ,apply to velvet hold true for these leave holes. Baste securely, using silk thread, fabrics, especially making sure that the nap runs which will not leave marks. Press very carefully. in the same direction. Since the pile of corduroy Satin can easily take on a flat, "over-pressed" is short, it is possible to press with a dry iron on look. Protect it with a light press cloth and the wrong side of the fabric. press on the wrong side.

Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, The Texas A. & M. College System and United States Department of griculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914. 20M-8-60