THE FAMILY TREE OF WEAVES SIMPLE WEAVES WEAVES WITH COMPOUND SETS COMPOUND WEAVES OF ELEMENTS one warp and one weft more than one warp; more than one weave more than one weft structure A POCKET plain weave supplementary warp double weave: twill supplementary weft two weave structures satin weaves that produce weaves that produce two independent and pattern blocks pattern blocks equal structures DICTIONARY M's and O's overshot connected by spot weaves crackle exchanging faces: of weaving terms ‘diversified plain figured double weave weave’ weaves that produce repp weaves pattern blocks with two independent for today’s weavers units structures (face and weaves that produce —supplementary-weft back) connected by pattern blocks with structures with 2, 3, or stitching with: units 4 tie-down ends –warp from bottom repp weaves —warp or weft pile layer over weft from lace weaves: huck and weaves: velvet and top (piqué and other Bronson lace terry stitched double cloths) ‘diversified plain –warp from top layer weave’ complementary warp under weft from turned twill complementary weft bottom turned satin (damask) —warp-faced, weft- –extra warp faced ‘polychromes’ –extra weft —warp-faced compound tabby and twill two independent but —weft-faced compound unequal structures tabby (taqueté) and (main and secondary) twill (samitum) connected where the secondary weft swivel interlaces above the Bedford cord main structure —the two structures can form free double cloth where main structure is on the top Madelyn van der Hoogt or they can be PO Box 1228 completely interwoven Coupeville, WA 98239 Bateman weaves: park, plain-weave ground cloth. The ratio of must contain the complete threading more complementary sets of warp, one boulevard, and chevron: tie-down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; sequence of the tie-down ends. The of which appears on the face while the supplementary-weft structures with tie- there are 16 ends in a structural unit; block, determined by the threading of other(s) are on the back. Even picks down ends and a plain weave ground each block requires one pattern shaft; the pattern shafts, can be smaller than separate the sets of warps to determine cloth. In the threading ‘units,’ one, two, tie-down ends alternate with pattern the unit; see Bergman.) Two-tie unit the set (color) on the face. Odd picks or three tie-down ends are followed by ends in the threading; tie-down ends weaves differ in: a) the ratio of tie- bind the warp sets in alternate (‘tabby’) pattern ends (usually in a twill are threaded in ‘rosepath’ order (3-1-2- down ends to pattern ends, b) the order, thus the name warp-faced sequence) to form a block. The pattern 3-1-3-2-1). The threading for one unit number of threads in the unit, c) the compound tabby. Warp sets bound in ends in one block share shafts with of Block A is 3-4-1-4-2-4-3-4-1-4-3-4- number of pattern shafts required for twill order are called warp-faced pattern ends in other blocks; therefore 2-4-1-4. A block can be smaller than each block, d) the location of the tie- compound twill. there is no independent threading unit. the structural unit: 3-4-1-4-2-4-3-4-1- down ends in the unit, e) and the order weft-faced: wefts completely hide the In park weaves one tie-down end is 5-3-5-2-5-1-5 is one unit but contains in which the tie-down ends are lifted to warp. Some sources use ‘weft-faced’ to threaded on shaft 1; in boulevard both A(4) and B(5). tie the supplementary weft float. describe a weft-dominant surface. weaves, the tie-down ends are threaded binder or binding warp unit weaves : the : pattern weave weft-faced compound tabby: a 1-2-1; in chevron weaves, the tie-down secondary warp of lampas. The binder structures in which a specific number weft-faced pattern weave with two or ends are threaded 1-2-3-2-1. (or secondary) warp interlaces with the of warp ends and weft picks interlace more sets of complementary wefts. Bedford cord: a complementary-weft secondary (often called pattern) weft. in a specific way to produce either Even warp ends separate the weft sets structure. One weft weaves plain Binder is also more loosely used to pattern or background independently of so that one set (color) is on the surface weave with one group of warp ends describe any warp or weft that binds a but identically to other groups. A of the cloth and the other(s) on the and floats across the back of the next float or completes an interlacement. specific threading formula—the back. Odd warp ends bind the group. The second weft floats behind Binding system in some sources is threading unit—is substituted for one complementary wefts in alternate the first group and weaves plain weave synonymous with order of filled square of a profile threading (tabby) order, thus the name weft-faced in the next. A non-interlacing stuffer interlacement. draft. Pattern or background is woven compound tabby, also called taqueté warp puffs the warp-wise ribs formed block weaves: weaves in which the in each unit by substituting a specific and summer and winter polychrome. by the plain weave on the face and the same warp and weft threads can lifting order for filled (pattern) or Complementary weft sets bound in floats on the back of each section. produce two different interlacements, empty (background) squares on a twill order are weft-faced compound beiderwand: a subset of lampas (a form one that is considered ‘pattern’ and one profile treadling draft. ‘Unit’ is a twill, also called samitum. of double weave with a main or that is considered ‘background.’ A structural term; ‘block’ refers to foundation structure and a secondary or single block is formed by all of the design. In summer and winter, the patterning structure). In beiderwand, free warp and weft threads that always threading formula for one unit of block double cloth appears in the areas where produce pattern or background A is 1-3-2-3. the main structure is woven on the top together. velvet: warp pile. A supplementary surface of the cloth (usually the pattern broken twill: the diagonal line warp forms pile loops on a plain weave areas). In the other areas (usually the characteristic of twill is broken by an ground cloth. To form the pile loops, background) the secondary weft weaves interruption (either in the threading, the the pile warp and the ground warp over the main structure, but the secondary treadling, or both) of the usual twill warp must be differently tensioned. warp remains underneath, causing the sequence in which adjacent warps Pile length is determined by inserting two structures to be interconnected. The interlace with adjacent wefts. rods in the loops. The loops can be cut ratio of main warp ends to secondary to make cut velvet. Bronson lace: a unit weave with warp ends in beiderwand is 4:1; the ratio warp-faced (usually) six ends and six picks in a : warp ends hide the weft of main weft to secondary weft is 1:1. unit. Either plain weave or lace can be completely on the surface of the cloth. weft-faced compound tabby The main and secondary structures are woven in each independent unit. To Warp-faced has also sometimes been both plain weave. produce lace, two of the six warp ends used as a synonym for warp-dominant. copyright l989: Madelyn van der Hoogt Bergman: a supplementary-weft unit and two of the six picks do not warp-faced compound tabby: a weave with three tie-down ends and a interlace in plain-weave order but warp-faced pattern weave with two or supplementary weft floats under a half- twill form pattern and background on instead float over five (picks or ends) The supplementary weft float passes unit and weaves tabby (halftone) in the the same surface of the cloth. Three- and are caught by the sixth. over three threads and under one in the other. Each half-unit of treadling end turned twill (2/1 and 1/2) is clean cut: a term to describe the clean pattern block, under three and over one reverses the halftone/float position of sometimes called ‘dimity,’ and four- edges of the design in turned twills and in one of the background blocks, and the preceding half-unit. The ratio of end turned twill (3/1 and 1/3) is turned satins. Every warp and weft over three in one pick and over one in tie-down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; sometimes called ‘twill diaper.’ must interlace (exchange faces) at the the alternate pick in the other two there are at least six ends in a unit; one turned satin (damask): design’s edge to produce a clean cut. background (halftone) blocks. Adjacent of the tie-down ends alternates in the warp satin and weft satin form pattern complementary sets of blocks cannot produce pattern or first half-unit and the second tie-down background at the same time: crackle is and background on the same surface of elements: two or more sets of warp end alternates in the second half-unit; not a unit weave. the cloth. Turned satin is damask. ends that are coequal in the fabric and one tie-down end is lifted for one half- cross twill: twill: each warp passes over or under are both necessary to complete the diagonals within the twill unit of treadling, the other for the next more than one weft and each weft over interlacement with one set of wefts, or (treadling or threading) repeat move in half-unit of treadling.