THE FAMILY TREE OF WEAVES SIMPLE WEAVES WEAVES WITH COMPOUND SETS COMPOUND WEAVES OF ELEMENTS one warp and one weft more than one warp; more than one weave more than one weft structure A POCKET plain weave supplementary warp double weave: twill supplementary weft two weave structures satin weaves that produce weaves that produce two independent and pattern blocks pattern blocks equal structures DICTIONARY M's and O's overshot connected by spot weaves crackle exchanging faces: of weaving terms ‘diversified plain figured double weave weave’ weaves that produce repp weaves pattern blocks with two independent for today’s weavers units structures (face and weaves that produce —supplementary-weft back) connected by pattern blocks with structures with 2, 3, or stitching with: units 4 tie-down ends –warp from bottom repp weaves —warp or weft pile layer over weft from lace weaves: huck and weaves: velvet and top (piqué and other Bronson lace terry stitched double cloths) ‘diversified plain –warp from top layer weave’ complementary warp under weft from turned twill complementary weft bottom turned satin (damask) —warp-faced, weft- –extra warp faced ‘polychromes’ –extra weft —warp-faced compound tabby and twill two independent but —weft-faced compound unequal structures tabby (taqueté) and (main and secondary) twill (samitum) connected where the secondary weft swivel interlaces above the Bedford cord main structure —the two structures can form free double cloth where main structure is on the top Madelyn van der Hoogt or they can be PO Box 1228 completely interwoven Coupeville, WA 98239 Bateman weaves: park, plain-weave ground cloth. The ratio of must contain the complete threading more complementary sets of warp, one boulevard, and chevron: tie-down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; sequence of the tie-down ends. The of which appears on the face while the supplementary-weft structures with tie- there are 16 ends in a structural unit; block, determined by the threading of other(s) are on the back. Even picks down ends and a plain weave ground each block requires one pattern shaft; the pattern shafts, can be smaller than separate the sets of warps to determine cloth. In the threading ‘units,’ one, two, tie-down ends alternate with pattern the unit; see Bergman.) Two-tie unit the set (color) on the face. Odd picks or three tie-down ends are followed by ends in the threading; tie-down ends weaves differ in: a) the ratio of tie- bind the warp sets in alternate (‘tabby’) pattern ends (usually in a twill are threaded in ‘rosepath’ order (3-1-2- down ends to pattern ends, b) the order, thus the name warp-faced sequence) to form a block. The pattern 3-1-3-2-1). The threading for one unit number of threads in the unit, c) the compound tabby. Warp sets bound in ends in one block share shafts with of Block A is 3-4-1-4-2-4-3-4-1-4-3-4- number of pattern shafts required for twill order are called warp-faced pattern ends in other blocks; therefore 2-4-1-4. A block can be smaller than each block, d) the location of the tie- compound twill. there is no independent threading unit. the structural unit: 3-4-1-4-2-4-3-4-1- down ends in the unit, e) and the order weft-faced: wefts completely hide the In park weaves one tie-down end is 5-3-5-2-5-1-5 is one unit but contains in which the tie-down ends are lifted to warp. Some sources use ‘weft-faced’ to threaded on shaft 1; in boulevard both A(4) and B(5). tie the supplementary weft float. describe a weft-dominant surface. weaves, the tie-down ends are threaded binder or binding warp unit weaves : the : pattern weave weft-faced compound tabby: a 1-2-1; in chevron weaves, the tie-down secondary warp of lampas. The binder structures in which a specific number weft-faced pattern weave with two or ends are threaded 1-2-3-2-1. (or secondary) warp interlaces with the of warp ends and weft picks interlace more sets of complementary wefts. Bedford cord: a complementary-weft secondary (often called pattern) weft. in a specific way to produce either Even warp ends separate the weft sets structure. One weft weaves plain Binder is also more loosely used to pattern or background independently of so that one set (color) is on the surface weave with one group of warp ends describe any warp or weft that binds a but identically to other groups. A of the cloth and the other(s) on the and floats across the back of the next float or completes an interlacement. specific threading formula—the back. Odd warp ends bind the group. The second weft floats behind Binding system in some sources is threading unit—is substituted for one complementary wefts in alternate the first group and weaves plain weave synonymous with order of filled square of a profile threading (tabby) order, thus the name weft-faced in the next. A non-interlacing stuffer interlacement. draft. Pattern or background is woven compound tabby, also called taqueté warp puffs the warp-wise ribs formed block weaves: weaves in which the in each unit by substituting a specific and summer and winter polychrome. by the plain weave on the face and the same warp and weft threads can lifting order for filled (pattern) or Complementary weft sets bound in floats on the back of each section. produce two different interlacements, empty (background) squares on a twill order are weft-faced compound beiderwand: a subset of lampas (a form one that is considered ‘pattern’ and one profile treadling draft. ‘Unit’ is a twill, also called samitum. of double weave with a main or that is considered ‘background.’ A structural term; ‘block’ refers to foundation structure and a secondary or single block is formed by all of the design. In summer and winter, the patterning structure). In beiderwand, free warp and weft threads that always threading formula for one unit of block double cloth appears in the areas where produce pattern or background A is 1-3-2-3. the main structure is woven on the top together. velvet: warp pile. A supplementary surface of the cloth (usually the pattern broken twill: the diagonal line warp forms pile loops on a plain weave areas). In the other areas (usually the characteristic of twill is broken by an ground cloth. To form the pile loops, background) the secondary weft weaves interruption (either in the threading, the the pile warp and the ground warp over the main structure, but the secondary treadling, or both) of the usual twill warp must be differently tensioned. warp remains underneath, causing the sequence in which adjacent warps Pile length is determined by inserting two structures to be interconnected. The interlace with adjacent wefts. rods in the loops. The loops can be cut ratio of main warp ends to secondary to make cut velvet. Bronson lace: a unit weave with warp ends in beiderwand is 4:1; the ratio warp-faced (usually) six ends and six picks in a : warp ends hide the weft of main weft to secondary weft is 1:1. unit. Either plain weave or lace can be completely on the surface of the cloth. weft-faced compound tabby The main and secondary structures are woven in each independent unit. To Warp-faced has also sometimes been both plain weave. produce lace, two of the six warp ends used as a synonym for warp-dominant. copyright l989: Madelyn van der Hoogt Bergman: a supplementary-weft unit and two of the six picks do not warp-faced compound tabby: a weave with three tie-down ends and a interlace in plain-weave order but warp-faced pattern weave with two or supplementary weft floats under a half- twill form pattern and background on instead float over five (picks or ends) The supplementary weft float passes unit and weaves tabby (halftone) in the the same surface of the cloth. Three- and are caught by the sixth. over three threads and under one in the other. Each half-unit of treadling end turned twill (2/1 and 1/2) is clean cut: a term to describe the clean pattern block, under three and over one reverses the halftone/float position of sometimes called ‘dimity,’ and four- edges of the design in turned twills and in one of the background blocks, and the preceding half-unit. The ratio of end turned twill (3/1 and 1/3) is turned satins. Every warp and weft over three in one pick and over one in tie-down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; sometimes called ‘twill diaper.’ must interlace (exchange faces) at the the alternate pick in the other two there are at least six ends in a unit; one turned satin (damask): design’s edge to produce a clean cut. background (halftone) blocks. Adjacent of the tie-down ends alternates in the warp satin and weft satin form pattern complementary sets of blocks cannot produce pattern or first half-unit and the second tie-down background at the same time: crackle is and background on the same surface of elements: two or more sets of warp end alternates in the second half-unit; not a unit weave. the cloth. Turned satin is damask. ends that are coequal in the fabric and one tie-down end is lifted for one half- cross twill: twill: each warp passes over or under are both necessary to complete the diagonals within the twill unit of treadling, the other for the next more than one weft and each weft over interlacement with one set of wefts, or (treadling or threading) repeat move in half-unit of treadling. One structural or under more than one warp in the two or more sets of wefts that are opposite directions. unit usually contains two blocks A: 3- interlacement sequence. The minimum coequal in the fabric and are both damask: a simple weave in which 1-3-1-3; B: 4-2-4-2-4; blocks are number of threads required for a twill necessary to complete the inter- areas of warp-float satin and areas of usually threaded in point or straight interlacement is therefore three warp lacement with one set of warp ends weft-float satin appear on the same order. ends and three wefts (the weft passes compound sets of elements: surface across the width and length of tie-down end: a warp end with the over one warp and under two or over two or more sets of weft sor two or the cloth, syn. turned satin. When satin specific task of tying a pattern weft two warps and under one). Each more sets of warp ends. The additional units of five ends are threaded, the float to a ground cloth. (Binder and successive pick begins the same warp (set) or weft (set) may be damask is often called 5-shaft (or 5- binding warp have sometimes been interlacement on an adjacent warp end, supplementary as in overshot and end) damask even though l5 shafts are used as synomyms for ‘tie-down,’ but either to the left or to the right, creating summer and winter or complementary required for three blocks, 20 for four, they are also used for the secondary a diagonal line. as in swivel, Bedford cord, summer etc. When units of six ends are used, warp of lampas.) ‘Tie-down’ can also twill diaper: turned or and winter polychrome. the cloth is often called 6-shaft (or 6- indicate a weft that ties a counterchanged twill. Twill diaper compound weaves: end) damask even though satin on six supplementary warp float. In tied unit two or more designs are usually small all-over shafts is not true satin. weaves, specific ends in the threading weave structures (separate sets of squares or simple block patterns. damask diaper: damask in small units are designated as the tie-down warp-and-weft) form one cloth. The all-over block designs. ends (1 and 2 in the summer and winter two-tie weave: a weave in which two structures are connected in one of unit, for example). warp ends in a threading group are several ways (see double weave). distribution factor: see counter. designated as tie-down ends (i.e., the 1 tied unit weaves: supplementary- counter: the number of warp ends double damask: sometimes used to and 2 in summer and winter). Most weft unit weaves in which each unit away from the previous warp the satin describe damask that is woven with two-tie weaves are also unit weaves; contains specific warp ends that act as interlacement moves with each reciprocal complementary wefts of two summer and winter is a ‘two-tie unit tie-down ends to tie supplementary successive pick; also called the different colors that produce a weft- weave.’ pattern weft floats to a ground cloth interruption factor, distribution factor, float on both sides of the cloth; the two (usually plain weave). The structural two-tie unit weaves: count number, rising number. wefts (therefore the two colors) unit is complete when all of the tie- unit weaves with two tie-down ends counterchanged: when a weave exchange positions in pattern and down ends in the sequence have been that ‘tie’ a supplementary pattern weft structure and its reverse appear on the background areas. Double damask has threaded. Each unit alternates tie-down float to a ground cloth (plain weave, same surface of the cloth to create also been used to identify damask with ends with pattern ends; the number and twill, or satin). The other ends in the pattern with one and background with a weft to warp ratio of 2:1. ratio vary. The number of tie-down unit are often called pattern ends since the other. double-faced: when two they determine whether the float ends and the order in which they tie the crackle: a supplementary-weft complementary sets of warp (or weft) appears on the face or the back of the supplementary weft floats also vary. structure with a plain- weave ground are reciprocal, forming an identical cloth. All of the ends in the unit weave turned: see counterchanged. cloth. Crackle is usually woven on four structure on both sides of the cloth. the ground cloth. (The structural unit turned twill: warp twill and weft shafts and forms four blocks of pattern. double two-tie unit weave: or jacquard damasks. The edges of the summer and winter polychrome three-tie unit weaves: a supplementary-weft unit weave with design are stepped in squares that are (without tabby): a complementary- supplementary-weft unit weaves with two tie-down ends and a plain weave the size of a unit or half-unit of the weft structure using the summer and three tie-down ends. As in two-tie ground cloth. The threading unit satin structure being woven. winter threading system. Three or more weaves, the tie-down ends alternate requires two pattern shafts (‘double’) extended summer and winter heavy wefts (each of a different color) with other ends. The other ends (the for each block. Each block can produce (‘tied beiderwand’): form one structural pick. One of them ‘pattern’ ends) determine whether the pattern, background, or halftone s a supplementary-weft unit weave with appears on the face of the cloth in any float appears on the top surface or the independently. The label is applied to two tie-down ends and a plain-weave given area (over three warp ends, under back of the cloth. All of the ends in the the specific threading (1-3-2-4, 1-5-2- ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down one) and the others appear on the back unit weave the ground cloth (which can 6, etc., also called double summer and ends to pattern ends is 1:2 or 1:3 or 1:4 (over one, under three). Pattern is formed be plain weave, twill, or satin). Three- winter) but not to other unit-weave (or more); there are six to ten (or more) by the colors of the wefts selected to tie unit weaves differ in: a) the ratio of threadings with two pattern shafts per ends in a threading unit; two pattern weave on the face, syn. taqueté. The tie-down ends to pattern ends, b) the block and two tie-down ends (1-3-4-2- shafts are required for each block; the same structure can be woven as a number of ends in the unit, c) the 3-4; 1-2-3-4-3-4-; 3-1-3-1-3, 2-4-2-4-2, tie-down ends are threaded at the complementary-warp structure. number of pattern shafts required for etc.). A ‘double two-tie unit weave’ beginning and at the middle of the unit; supplementary pattern weft: also each block, d) the position of the tie- threading can produce many structures the tie-down ends interlace with the called extra weft, pattern weft, down ends in the unit, and e) the order other than supplementary weft; its most pattern weft in plain-weave order; the supplementary weft, a structurally non- in which the tie-down ends tie the frequent uses are to expand twills and threading for a unit of A is 1-3-4-2-4-3 essential weft used to add pattern to a supplementary weft float. to combine structures. or 1-3-4-3-2-3-4-3, etc. ground structure. The supplementary tie (to tie): when a tie-down end is double weave: a compound weave in figured double weave: two equal pattern weft usually alternates with a lifted and the pattern weft passes under which two sets of warp ends each and independent structures (two warps ground weft as in summer and winter it but over the other ends of the unit, it weave with a respective set of wefts. each weave with a respective weft) or overshot. is ‘tied’ by the tie-down end to the top The two structures are usually exchange positions from the face to the supplementary set of elements: a surface of the cloth. When the pattern connected to each other in one of back of cloth for the purpose of set of warp ends or set of wefts (or weft passes over a tie-down end and several ways: a) the structures patterning; sometimes called ‘block both) added to a structure usually for under the other ends in the unit, it is exchange positions from face to back double weave’ or ‘patterned double the purpose of patterning. In overshot, tied by the tie-down end to the back of or vice versa, b) the structures are weave.’ a supplementary weft patterns a plain the cloth. In a single pattern pick, one ‘stitched’ together by warp ends or tie-down warp end ties the weft to the four- (or more-) tie unit weaves: weave ground. Supplementary wefts or wefts of one structure (or extra warp top surface of the cloth in the pattern supplementary-weft unit weaves with warps can also float between two ends or wefts) interlacing with wefts or areas and a different tie-down warp end four (or more) tie-down ends. The tie- structures to add stuffing, as in piqué or warp ends of the other, c) the warp of ties the weft to the back of the cloth in down ends can interlace with the Bedford cord, or to stitch two one structure interlaces with its weft on the background areas. supplementary weft in plain-weave or structures together. opposite sides of the other tied overshot (star-and-diamond twill order. All other characteristics and tabby: plain weave. As an adjective, structure—or by a combination of weave): potential variations are the same as for ‘tabby’ is most often used for the weft these three ways. two- and three-tie weaves. The cloth that weaves plain weave while another a supplementary-weft unit weave with dräll: Swedish term usually used to can be plain weave, twill, or satin. weft weaves a supplementary pattern two tie-down ends and a plain weave describe weaves in which warp-float ground cloth. Each threading unit ground vs. pattern. Ground usually float. It is also used in the phrase tabby areas contrast with weft-float areas contains two half-units (even-tied refers to the cloth structure on which a order to describe something done in such as turned twills and turned satins, overshot with an even number of ends pattern warp or pattern weft floats. If alternation, first one and then the other. especially when they are simple block in the half-unit and uneven-tied the (supplementary) pattern warp or For example, the supplementary designs woven on eight or ten shafts. overshot with an uneven number of weft is cut away from the cloth, the pattern weft in summer and winter is ends). In the pattern area the dräll damask: damask patterning ground structure remains intact. Such said to be tied in tabby order. supplementary weft floats over one produced on a shaft loom or (more grounds are found in overshot, crackle, taqueté: see weft-faced compound half-unit and weaves tabby (halftone) rarely) shaft drawloom. Dräll patterning summer and winter, and other tied unit tabby and summer and winter in the other. In the background area the is less elaborate than figured drawloom weaves, but not in M’s and O’s, lace polychrome (without tabby). threading draft. (1-3-2-3 equals one simple weave: a weave with one weaves, double weave, or damask, structure. It is not usually used to refer square on a profile threading draft row warp and one weft, i.e., one set of warp though these can also be block weaves to the warp in supplementary weft for block A in summer and winter.) ends that perform the same function or unit weaves or both. Pattern, an structures. The profile drawdown is the design and one set of weft picks that perform even more general term, refers to the halb-dräll: Swedish term used for that results when pattern is produced in the same function. Plain weave, twills area of cloth where the pattern warp or weaves in which patterning is formed the block(s) indicated by the profile (including turned twills), satins, weft appears on the surface, but it can with supplementary-weft floats (such as tie-up and profile treadling order. (including damask), lace weaves, and also mean any part of the design that overshot or crackle); the term usually Quigley: a supplementary-weft unit spot weaves are simple weaves. the weaver designates as pattern on applies to four-shaft weaves. These are weave with four tie-down ends and a single two-tie unit weave: what is also an arbitrary designation of also called simplified dräll weaves. plain-weave ground cloth. The ratio of a unit weave that requires one pattern background. In beiderwand, for Halb (half) and simplified indicate that tie down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; shaft (‘single’) for each block and two example, the ‘pattern’ weft usually these weaves require fewer shafts per there are at least eight threads in a unit; tie-down ends (as in summer and forms the background. block than dräll weaves. ground weft pattern weft one pattern shaft is required for each winter). vs. . The ‘half-dukagang’: new block; the tie-down ends alternate straight draw: shafts are threaded in ground weft weaves with all of the a supplementary-weft unit weave with with the pattern ends in the threading; succession (1-8, 1-8, or 8-1, 8-1, etc.). warp ends to form the ground cloth. In two tie-down ends and a plain weave the tie-down ends are threaded in tied unit weaves, the ground weft spot weaves: simple weaves with ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down to straight or point order and interlace weaves plain weave (the ground cloth spots of pattern formed by floats on a pattern ends is 1:2 or 1:3 or 1:4 (or with the pattern weft in straight or can aso be twill or satin) with all of the background of plain weave. The same more); there are six or more ends in a point order. One unit of A is 1-5-2-5-3- warp ends. The pattern weft creates warp end or weft that weaves plain unit; the tie-down ends are threaded at 5-4-5 or 1-5-2-5-3-5-4-5-3-5-2-5. pattern by floating above groups of weave in the background areas forms the beginning and in the middle of the reciprocal: warp ends (or beneath them) complementary sets of the pattern float. Since the pattern area unit; the same tie-down end is always interweaving with only the tie-down warp ends or weft picks forming an is limited by float length (groups of lifted and the other always remains ends. (The main weft in lampas is identical interlacement on opposite threads cannot form either pattern or down for the supplementary pattern sometimes called the ground weft and faces of a cloth; one set appears on one background independently as desired), weft pick. One unit of A is threaded: the main structure the ground structure. face when the other is on the opposite spot weaves are not unit weaves. 1-3-4-2-3-4 or 1-3-4-3-2-3-4-3, etc. face. The secondary weft in lampas is ‘half-satin’: stitched double cloth: two a supplementary-weft samitum: sometimes called the pattern weft.) see weft-faced compound independent structures ‘stitched’ unit weave with three tie-down ends ground warp vs. pattern warp. twill. together: warp ends of one structure and a plain weave ground cloth. The Pattern warp most often refers to a satin: a simple weave with warp floats interlace with wefts of the other, or a ratio of tie-down ends to pattern ends is supplementary warp that floats on a on one surface of the cloth and weft supplementary warp or weft weaves 1:1; there are six ends in a unit; the tie- ground cloth to produce pattern. In tied floats on the other. The order of with wefts or warp ends of both down ends alternate with the pattern unit weaves, the warp ends which interlacement of warp and weft is structures. Stitching can be done ends in the threading; the tie down determine pattern by remaining above regular and dispersed: no two adjacent decoratively or invisibly. ends interlace with the pattern weft in or below a supplementary pattern-weft warps or wefts interlace. Warp ends twill order. One unit of A is 1-4-2-4-3- summer and winter: pick are often called pattern ends. In and weft picks pass over or under 4. a supplementary-weft unit weave with summer and winter, therefore, the ends every thread but one in the repeat (4/1 Han damask: an historical term for a two tie-down ends and a plain-weave in each unit that are not threaded on or 1/4 in 5-end satin; 1/7 or 7/1 in 8- simple, self-patterned float weave (that ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down shafts 1 and 2 (which carry the the tie- end satin, etc.). Shafts are usually is not damask). Floats over three ends to pattern ends is 1:1; there are down ends) are the pattern ends, and threaded in straight order beginning threads form the pattern; the four ends in each unit; each block the shafts on which they are threaded with the first shaft and ending with the background is plain weave. Where requires one pattern shaft; the tie-down the pattern shafts. Ground warp is used last shaft. In true satin the warp that warp floats appear on one surface of ends are the first and fourth ends in the to distinguish the warp that weaves the binds each weft is the same number of the cloth, weft floats appear on the unit; the tie-down ends interlace with ground cloth from a supplementary warp ends away from the warp binding reverse. The three-thread floats are the pattern weft in plain weave order. pattern warp. It also is sometimes used the preceding weft. If it is not, the satin ‘alternately aligned’: they are bound by One unit of Block A is 1-3-2-3. for the main warp of a lampas is irregular. alternate ends (or picks) in alternate rows, i.e., ‘tabby’ order. The second cloth where the main structure is on the and one to tie it from below. Summer A is threaded 1-2-3-4-3-4. and fourth ends (and the second and top surface of the cloth. The main and and winter has sometimes been called a pattern warp: usually refers to a fourth picks) bind the floats. secondary structures can each be plain ‘one-tie’ unit weave when only shaft 1 supplementary warp that weaves huck lace: a unit weave with at least weave, twill, or satin. Areas where the is lifted for all pattern picks, but shaft pattern on a ground cloth. It is also six ends and picks in a unit. The secondary weft appears on the face of 2, though not lifted, ties the float on the used to identify warp ends in threading unit is divided into half units the cloth are usually considered the bottom. supplementary-weft structures that each with an odd number of ends (3/3, pattern areas. In beiderwand, however, opphämta: (from Sweden) a determine pattern by remaining above 5/5, 7/7). Three combinations of areas where the main structure appears supplementary-weft structure with a or below a pattern float. on the face are considered pattern. The interlacements can be woven: a) plain plain weave ground cloth. All of the pattern weft: usually refers to a two structures do not exchange weave in both half units, b) plain warp ends weave the plain-weave supplementary weft that floats to form positions as they do in figured double weave in one half unit alternating with cloth. A supplementary weft floats pattern. In some sources the secondary weave. The main warp and weft can warp floats or weft floats in the other either over all of the ends or under all weft of lampas is called a pattern weft. weave on the face of the cloth (while (often called huck texture or ‘huck’), or of the ends in each block to create Less frequently it refers to a weft that the secondary structure weaves on the c) warp floats in one half-unit pattern. Since the pattern area is determines where a pattern warp float back), but only the secondary weft can alternating with weft floats in the other limited by float length (blocks cannot appears by remaining over or under it. (often called huck lace). Treadling half pass above the main structure; the form pattern independently) opphämta piqué: a) fast-back piqué: a stitched units for huck texture and huck lace secondary warp always interlaces with is not a unit weave. (Opphämta is double cloth with a supplementary also alternate warp and weft floats. the secondary weft beneath the main woven in other European and (stuffer) weft; or structure, syn. diasper, tissue. Scandinavian countries under other inner warp: usually refers to the b) loose-back piqué: a supplementary matelassé: a double cloth with names.) warp ends in a double-faced (stitcher) warp and supplementary decorative stitching. Sometimes overshot: complementary-weft structure that do a supplementary-weft (stuffer) weft structure. The back matelassé is stuffed. Often the face not interlace with any set of wefts and structure with a plain-weave ground (stitcher) warp ends in both are held at cloth is twill or satin. The back (or are hidden, adding to the bulk and cloth. The supplementary weft floats a) greater tension than the face warp ends stitcher) warp is usually not held at stability of the cloth. over an entire block, b) under an entire and are lifted over face weft picks greater tension than the face warp as it interruption factor: see counter. block, or c) over and under alternate (usually two) to stitch. The stuffer (also is in piqué. ends in a block to form halftones. Since kuvikas: a Finnish word used widely called wadder) weft adds to the puff of M’s and O’s: a simple weave forming the pattern area is limited by float as a synonym for tied unit weaves, the unstitched areas. The ratio of face two blocks of pattern with four shafts. length (blocks cannot form pattern particularly summer and winter. warp and weft to back warp and weft is The warp ends in one block weave independently), overshot is not a unit Kuvikas is also used as a synonym for usually 2:1. plain weave as individual ends while weave. pattern in Finnish texts. plain weave: a simple weave in groups of warp ends interlace in plain ‘paired-tie’ weaves: lace weaves which each weft passes over one warp : simple weaves with weave order with the same weft in the (‘tied Lithuanian,’ also called dimai or floats caused by an interruption of end and under one end. The adjacent alternate block. Since pattern cannot be perverai; ‘tied Latvian’): plain-weave interlacement. Warp floats warp end and weft pick reverse the woven in both blocks at the same time, supplementary-weft unit weaves with alternate with weft floats or warp (or actions of the first. The minimum M’s and O’s is not a unit weave. two tie-down ends and a plain-weave weft) floats alternate with plain weave. number of threads required for plain- one-tie weave: a weave in which one ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down As in spot weaves, the same warp or weave interlacement is two warp ends warp end in a threading group is ends to pattern ends is 2:4 (or more); weft forming a float in one area forms and two wefts. designated as a tie-down end. If such a there are six or more ends in a unit; the plain weave or the opposite float in the profile draft: a graphed design for weave is also a unit weave, it is a one- two tie-down ends are threaded adjacent area. block weaves. The profile threading tie unit weave. A one-tie weave allows together at the beginning of the unit. In draft consists of rows representing the lampas: a double weave in which a for a pattern weft to be tied on one ‘tied Lithuanian’ the same tie-down blocks required by the design (A, B, C, main structure is patterned by the weft surface. If the pattern weft passes end is always lifted and the other and D for four blocks). For each unit of a secondary structure. The resulting above the cloth in one area and below always remains down for the pattern weave a different threading formula is cloth can be either completely it in another, two tie-down threads are pick; in ‘tied Latvian,’ the tie-down substituted for one square on a profile interwoven or contain areas of double usually used, one to tie it from above ends alternate to tie the float. A unit of