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Home , Angora wool, Brocatelle, Mohair, Moleskin, Nap (fabric), Polar fleece

FABRICS/ DYING dictionary

ACRYLIC BABYCORD Acrylic fabric is a manufactured with a soft -like feel and Babycord is a ribcord fabric with a very small and thin rib line. The an uneven finish. It is used widely in knits as the fabric has the same fabric is often lighter and softer than normal or fabric. It is cozy look as wool. Acrylic fabric is favored for a variety of reasons very soft and comfortable, and is often made in a stretch quality. it is warm, quite soft, holds color well, is both stain and wrinkle resistant and it doesn’t itch. These qualities make acrylic a great BLEND substitute for wool. A blend fabric or is made up of more than one fibre. In the yarn, two or more different types of fibres are used to form the yarn. Blends are used to create a more comfortable fabric with a softer Alpaca wool comes from a South American that roams the feel. A good example is a /wool blend; the mixture of cotton mountain slopes of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and . The fleece and wool will prevent the fabric from being excessively warm and from an alpaca is similar to wool or , but is softer, silkier, and will make the fabric softer to the skin. warmer. Because alpaca wool takes much longer to grow it is often more expensive and exclusive. However, garments made from this BOUCLE fabric are stronger and more comfortable. The term boucle is derived from the French word boucle, which literally means “to curl”. This term perfectly describes boucle yarn which contains of ringlet curls. Because of the fabric’s looped, sur- face, it has a very supple, bouncy hand. Boucle weaves are often One of the finest made comes from the natural of the used in , and coats for a classy textured look. special Angora . Although their names are similar, angora fiber is distinct from mohair, which comes from the Angora . The an- CHAMBRAY gora fiber is usually blended with wool to give the yarn elasticity and Chambray was originally a cloth made at or near a comfortable feel. A garment of angora blend fabric is the perfect the French town of Cambrai. It is a lightweight cotton fabric with a cold weather . 1x1 weave, often made from blue and white .

AJOUR Ajour is known for its light weight, ventilating properties, porosity, and most importantly for its variation in areas of thinness causing gaps in the closeness of the set. These areas of thinness form a variety of geometric patterns, stripes and lattices, and are attained by the choice of a suitable weave. This effect can also be achieved by the burning of chosen areas of a garment to create the desired gaps, or by perforation. Ajour can be made of cotton, or wool. Its name is derived from the French ajour, meaning breaking, as can be seen in the gaps in the fabric. 1.2 chambray

The resulting fabric is a very soft, subtle and smooth material that is mostly used for , dresses and beach pants.

CHENILLE In French, the word chenille means “caterpillar”, Most caterpillars are a few inches long and are covered in short that give them a fuzzy look. It is this particular look that provided the name for a certain type of fabric. Chenille yarn is quite thick, soft and fuzzy, and lengths of it do look, in fact, like long caterpillars. Manufacturers of chenille begin by creating a tightly wound core for the yarn. Then short lengths of fabric are wrapped around the core. Depending on the type of fabric that is used to create it, as well as the tonality of the color, chenille can have a lovely iridescent look to it without actually using iridescent fabric. Fabrics like mohair and wool are named specifically for the type of fibers that they are made of. However, this is not the case with chenille. Rather, the distinguishing factor for this fabric is the way in which it is made. 1.1 alpaca cultivation, with traces over 7,000 years old recovered from archae- COATINGS ological sites. The biggest advantages of cotton are that it’s very Coated fabric had been coated, covered or impregnated with durable. substances such as varnish, lacquer, rubber or . Also they could be laminated permanently to become a ‘proofed’ material. By doing so the fabric could become resistant, repellent, light insu- Denim is a sturdy cotton fabric characterized by 3x1 warp faced lating or it could be done for the look. weaves. Traditionally denim is made with indigo dyed yarn. Denim is known as the work wear fabric since the late 18th century but later became popular for . This versatile fabric can be Also known as duck fabric, canvas is a heavy weight cotton- based bleached, stonewashed, acid washed, over dyed and destroyed fabric manufactured in a plain weave. The fabric is so tightly woven which results in an endless variety of styles. that is windproof, has a waterproof quality and retains dyed colors extremely well. Canvas FELPA is grated according to weight (with 12 being the lightest and 1 being Felpa is a very soft kind of fabric often used for sweat-shirts or the heaviest variation) and is attributed as the processor to modern . It has a character, which makes it incredibly denim. comfortable to wear.

CASHMERE Cashmere is luxuriant wool with a silk feel and feather light weight. Flannel is a soft, light , typically made out of wool, and Despite the glamour associated with cashmere, it hails from humble sometimes combined with cotton or synthetic fibers. Flannel has beginnings. It is the wool or fur of the Kashmir goat. Kashmir been worn since the 17th century, when it was a popular fabric are primarily raised in Mongolia, but many are bred in , Tibet, in Wales. Eventually, its usage spread across the globe, and is now and . American herders have also joined the internation- common all over the world for making lightweight, warm clothing. In al cashmere production market in recent years. Napoleon is said North America, flannel is often associated with lumberjacks, - to have popularized its use for or wraps when he gave his ers, and woodsmen. This is probably due to its popularity amongst second wife, Empress Eugenie, seventeen of them. In more recent middle class workers who spent large amounts of time outdoors, years, Old-Hollywood stars started wearing it, bringing cashmere and wear clothing made of this fabric to keep warm in cold environ- to the hearts of people everywhere. Woven garments made of ments. Flannel became an accepted fabric in American pop culture cashmere must be dry cleaned, but knitted articles may be hand in the early 1990s, thanks to the rise of grunge music. washed. FLEECE CREPE is a soft napped insulating fabric made from a type of There are two kinds of crepe fabric. The first kind is crepe de Chine, called terephthalate (PET) or other synthetic or Canton crepe. This is a kind of silk that has a soft hand anda fibers. Polar fleece is used in jackets, hats, , sweatpants, wavy look to its surface. The other kind of crepe is associated hoodies, and high- outdoor clothing and can be used with Great Britain rather than China and is hard with a crimped, or as a vegan alternative to wool. It can be made partially from recy- crisp, appearance. Hard crepe is usually dyed black. It was used cled plastic bottles and is very light, soft and easy to wash. for clothing for widows in the Victorian era as well as for the veils in nuns’ habits. Soft crepe gets its wave pattern through GARMENT DYED boiling after , plus a backward twisting of double bobbins Garment dyed pieces have given its color once the garment is of yarn. Unlike the hard type, the soft version is usually available in already stitched together in its final shape. This in opposition to a many colors. It’s used for women’s scarves and other accessories. yarn dyed item where takes place prior to the weaving of the The French originally called corduroy “Cord Du Roi”, meaning cord yarn. One way of revealing a true garment dyed piece is by looking of the King. This lush velvety fabric is ribbed throughout the length at the linings and the labels: they should have the same and the ribs are cut and sheared so that a smooth velvety surface color as the self-fabric! Garment dyed clothes are preshrunk in the appears. dyeing process, have a slightly worn look at the seams and tend to have a softer, cuddlier feel to them. COTTON Be aware that your garment dyed styles will fade a little while being Cotton is one of our most used fabrics in the main collection be- washed. Don’t worry, this is actually a good thing! This makes the cause of its great characteristics. Cotton is a harvested garment look more vintage and unique. from the cotton plant. It is one of the oldest fibers under human

1.3 cotton 1.4 garment dyed LANA Herringbone describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern Lana means wool in Italian. usually found in fabric. It is distinguished by its broken zigzag pattern that resembles the skeleton of a herring fish. (This is why it’s LAMBSWOOL called a herringbone weave) Lambswool is made from a . It is the highest quality of sheep’s wool on the market. Smooth, resilient, elastic and the most INTARSIA hypoallergenic of all often used in . Intarsia is a technique that uses multiple shades of yarn to create knitted multicolored patterns. Along with Fair Isle knitting, it is LYCRA one of the most common multicolored knitting techniques. We love Lycra is a man-made elastane fiber invented in 1958. Lycra fiber intarsia knits because of the cozy authentic winter feeling that they adds comfort, fit, shape retention, durability and freedom of move- portray. ment. Fun fact: did you know that lycra can be stretched up to seven times its initial length before springing back into the original JAQUARD position when the tension is released? Jacquard weaves, produced on a special , are characterized by complex woven-in designs, often with large design repeats or LINEN effects. Fabrics made by this method include , Linen is a woven fabric made from the fibers of plants, and it , and . is one of the oldest and most expensive in the world. The fabric is generally very smooth to the touch, and often has a slight sheen to it. The material absorbs and loses moisture faster than A general term for any knit garment or fabric, the material had any other fabric, which is one of the main reasons it is so popular in lengthwise ribs on the right side and crossed wise rib on the wrong warm climates. Linen fibers are also very durable, which makes the side. It is crease resistant, very resilient and has the flexibility and fabric strong without causing it to feel rough. The only downside of stretch of a knit. Usually made from wool, cotton or silk but synthet- linen is that it tends to wrinkle easily. ics are often used as well. Moleskin is a heavy cotton fabric, woven and then sheared to Jute is a type of plant fiber used to make common items such as create a short, soft on one side. In feel and appearance its , , sacks, and clothes. Despite the fact that jute is similar to or chamois, but less plush than . The word tends to be rough in texture, fine threads of it are sometimes used is also used for clothing made from this fabric, as well as adhesive to create imitation silk. The created from jute is quite strong, pads stuck to the skin to prevent blisters. Clothing made from yet it is among the cheapest of natural fibers available. It also has moleskin is noted for its softness and durability. Some variants of exceptional insulating properties, low thermal conductivity, and the cloth are so densely woven as to be windproof. antistatic characteristics. However, jute does have the tendency to become brittle and to yellow in sunlight. / CASHWOOL Merino wool is the material shorn from Merino sheep. These sheep KNITTING are sought after for their coats, which are said to produce the finest, Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn is used to create a softest wool available. The merino is one of the world’s most an- cloth. consists of consecutive rows of loops, called cient breeds of sheep. And one of the toughest. Very different from stitches. The big difference with weaving is that weave threads are a regular sheep that chews grass in the lowlands, merino sheep live always straight while knitted fabrics follow a meandering path. This in the extremes of ’s Southern Alps. Regular sheep ensures that our knitted pulls will adapt to her every motion. would freeze to death up there, but the merino’s fleece is built for extremes – breathable in summer, insulating in winter, yet excep- tionally soft and lightweight.

MESH is often defined as a loosely woven or knitted fabric that has a large number of closely spaced holes, frequently used for modern sports jerseys. Our designers love to use this fabric as or as a detail on tees to give it a sporty twist.

MODAL Modal is considered a type of , however it is made only from beech wood fibers. Most other are made of the wood pulp

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1.6 moleskin 1.7 mesh of a number of different trees. It is considered bio-based rather very structured garments. than natural because, though the raw materials used to make it are natural, they are heavily processed using a number of chemicals. PEACHED COTTON Modal is soft, smooth and breathes well. Its texture is similar to that Peaching is a technique that creates a feel that is incredibly soft to of cotton or silk, and it’s cool to the touch and very absorbent. the touch. Peaching is simply a process that involves sanding the cotton fabric. When you would look at peached cotton through the MOHAIR lens of a , the material will appear to have a small layer Mohair is a silky produced from the hair of the . of fuzz on the top, much like the fuzz that is found on the outside of It is most often spun into a thread that can be woven, knitted, or the peach peel. crocheted depending upon the application. Mohair On top of that the hand of the fabric is very soft and similar to is a true winter favorite because of its durable, warm, insulating, rubbing across the fuzz on a peach. This is how the name ‘peached and light qualities. It also carries moisture away from the skin of cotton’ became a popular time to describe this sanded cotton the wearer so it has an airy feel to it. However, mohair can be a bit fabric. irritating to the skin. This is why we often blend it with other fabrics like cotton or acrylic. NAP YARN Poplin is a medium to heavy weight durable fabric that is also Naps are irregular threads of yarn. Instead of being smooth, these referred to as . The name derives from the French word yarns have imperfections and therefore give a vintage look to the papelaine that was used to describe a fabric with a silk warp fabric. Nap yarns are often colored and give a dotted and struc- weave and a yarn weft. This results in a sturdy fabric that tured effect to your garment. has noticeable ridges. Today, poplin is popular in shirts and pants and is often a combination of softer and heavier grades of cotton. Because of its process, it tends not to wrinkle easily, Nylon is a synthetic fabric made from petroleum products. It was and is somewhat water and stain resistant. Pants and shirts can be developed in the 1930s as an alternative to silk. It has a smooth made of this fabric, and it often feels soft and exhibits a little shine. shiny finish and is incredible strong and often waterproof. Another great character of nylon is that is dries really quick. PIMA COTTON Pima cotton is a type of cotton grown primarily in Peru, the United States and . It is considered to be one of the superior Woven fabric, the weft threads are white and the warm? is colored. blends of cotton and is extremely durable and absorbent. The oxford fabric is named after the special weave technique that is This type of cotton is named after the Pima, a group of American used to create it. Originally made of cotton only. Oxford cloth utilizes Indians who first cultivated the plant in the U.S., but the cotton’s or- a warp that combines two fine filaments that are woven together igins are its cultivation in Peru. One of the advantages of pima cot- to create a basket weave pattern that is sturdy but still allows the ton is that the thickness of the cloth creates a very durable fabric. fabric to breath. PIQUET A medium weight, tightly woven cotton-blend fabric generally Made from silk, cotton, nylon, rayon or polyester, consists recognizable by it’s waffle weave texture. of a plain weave with a slightly bumpy texture. It is lightweight, extremely sheer, has a faint shimmer and comes with an almost PATENT transparent appearance. Organza is a stiffer fabric than for example Patent leather owes its invention to Seth Boyden of Newark, New chiffon. This is the reason why it doesn’t flow, but is more suited for Jersey. During the year 1818, Boyden began to investigate the possibility of creating a version of leather that was treated in such a way that the material retained its protective qualities and durability, but also had an appearance that would be decidedly dressier than

1.7angorra goat (mohair) 1.9 oxford

1.8 nep yarn 1.10 quilted work boots and similar leather goods. Using a formula that was SLUB JERSEY based on a series of treatments using layers of linseed oil-based Slubs are areas in a length of yarn that are abnormally thick due coats, the new shiny leather began commercial production on 20 to uneven . Once considered flaws, slubs are now some- September 1819. times purposely added to yarns to give the finished woven material more character. This season it’s all about mixing prints and different textures. Quilting is the process of sewing two or more layers of material together to make a thicker padded material. Not only does quilting SUEDE create a cute printed look, it also is a great way of adding an extra Suede is a type of leather with a napped finish, used for jackets, layer to a for more warmth. shoes, and bags. Suede leather is made from the underside of the skin, primarily lamb, although goat, calf and deer are commonly RAYON used. The term comes from the French “gants de Suède”, which Rayon is the oldest manufactured fiber, having been in production literally means “Swedish gloves”. since the 1880s in France, where it was originally developed as a cheap alternative to silk. It is made of wood pulp and then made TENCEL into threads through a chemical process. Therefore it is a semi-nat- Tencel® is the registered trade name for a type of . Lyocell is ural fabric. Rayon is moisture absorbent (more so than cotton), the generic name for a fabric that’s made out of treated wood pulp. breathable, comfortable to wear, and easily dyed in vivid colors. It This fabric is known for its versatility, durability, and strength when does not build up static electricity, nor will it unless the fabric is both wet and dry. The perfect fabric for soft dresses, shirts and made from short, low-twist yarns. skirts.

SHERPA is a synthetic or fabric made to replicate the soft look of animal fur. It is often used in the hoods or lining of jackets and it has a soft cozy feel. Using Sherpa instead of real animal fur has advantages because it is easy to wash and to keep clean.

SILK Silk is a filament fiber formed from proteins secreted by Bombyx mori, or silkworms. Silkworms are not actually worms, but caterpillars, de- spite their common name. Silk originates in China, where people have practiced silk production for thousands of years. Highly prized for its softness, insulating properties, and strength, the fiber is a natural and therefore quite expensive. Making it requires monitoring and feeding the silkworms constantly, and a great 1,12 basic twill weave deal of effort results in a surprisingly small amount of thread. These garments have a rich appearance, are incredibly soft and don’t stick TEDDY to the body. Because of these special qualities and the fact that silk production is very work intensive, these garments are more expensive. The soft plush lining inside leather or denim jackets is called teddy lining. The soft fluffy character of this fabric resembles the softness of a .

TWEED is a type of fabric made from rough, woven wool. The original name of the cloth was tweel, which is Scottish for twill. Tweel was woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern, hence the name. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. About 1830, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm about some tweels. The London merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade name taken from the Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. Subsequently the goods were advertised as Tweed, and the name has remained ever since. Tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who 1,11 slub yarn associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite. A few years later the fabric became popular among the academic community until the mid- when hounds tooth was revived by the subculture. In recent years tweed has undergone a second revival among the Spandex or elastane is a known for its exceptional British Indie subcultures. elasticity. For clothing, spandex is usually mixed with cotton or polyester, and accounts for a small percentage of the final fabric. TWILL The result is a blend fabric with a comfortable stretch character. Twill is an incredibly versatile fabric that’s distinguishable by diagonal ribs on its surface and the smooth soft finish. It is woven by passing STRAW a weft thread over and under several warps threads, rather than Straw consists of the dried stalks of plants, especially cereal grains. just one as with plain weave. Twill weave has a front and back with Although it is an agricultural byproduct, rather than a primary crop, the front side having a more distinct rib and being more attractive in it has a wide range of uses. In , straw is often used for de- general. It creates a more pliable material with better wrinkle resis- tails and accessories. It gives a structured look to a garment. tance and durability than plain-woven fabric. Fabric labels sometimes have abbreviations to explain the fabrics. Here is a list of the most common abbreviations: VISCOSE WO – Wool (Sheep by default) IViscose is a fabric made by man but from natrual fibres. WV – Virgin Fleece Wool WP – Alpaca Wool YARN WL – Wool Color is added to the tread before producing the actual garment. WS – WM – Mohair Wool WAFFLE COTTON SE – Silk Waffle weave fabric is a woven fabric with a recessed square CO – Cotton / Baumwolle pattern. The raised edges around the recessed squares give LI – Flax / Linen the pattern the look of the breakfast food called waffles. It is HA – available in different gauges from very fine to medium to coarse. CV – Viscose Waffle cotton is woven in a way which makes it very absorbent. CMD – Modal The waffle weave also allows air to flow through the garment so CLY – Lyocell that it is very comfortable and dries quickly. PA – Nylon / PES – Polyester Waxed cotton is as the name suggests, cotton impregnated with a paraffin based wax, woven into a cloth. This technique was widely used from the mid-19th century to the mid-1950s in the sailing in , to create waterproof fabrics.

WEAVING Weaving is a method of producing fabric by using two distinct sets of yarns or threads that are interlaced to form the fabric. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the wefts. There are many different types of weaving depending on the style of the garment. Most fabrics are made with a plain weave, weave or a twill weave. Denim however is typically wo- ven with a right hand twill to give the fabric its sturdy rebellious character.

WATERPROOF Waterproof fabrics are usually natural or synthetic fabrics that are laminated or coated in some sort of permanently waterproofing material. Such as rubber, polyvinyl, polyurethane, silicone or wax. Great examples are the Mackintosh raincoats or inflatable boats

WATERPROOF BREATHEBLE Waterproof breatheble jackets resist waterdroplets from passing through while at the same time allowing water vapor through. their ability to block out rain and snow while allowing vapor from sweat to evaporate lends to their use in outdoor clothing.

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