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Sew Any Fabric Provides Practical, Clear Information for Novices and Inspiration for More Experienced Sewers Who Are Looking for New Ideas and Techniques

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Sew Any Fabric Provides Practical, Clear Information for Novices and Inspiration for More Experienced Sewers Who Are Looking for New Ideas and Techniques SAFBCOV.qxd 10/23/03 3:34 PM Page 1 S Fabric Basics at Your Fingertips EW A ave you ever wished you could call an expert and ask for a five-minute explanation on the particulars of a fabric you are sewing? Claire Shaeffer provides this key information for 88 of today’s most NY SEW ANY popular fabrics. In this handy, easy-to-follow reference, she guides you through all the basics while providing hints, tips, and suggestions based on her 20-plus years as a college instructor, pattern F designer, and author. ABRIC H In each concise chapter, Claire shares fabric facts, design ideas, workroom secrets, and her sewing checklist, as well as her sewability classification to advise you on the difficulty of sewing each ABRIC fabric. Color photographs offer further ideas. The succeeding sections offer sewing techniques and ForewordForeword byby advice on needles, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings. Claire’s unique fabric/fiber dictionary cross- NancyNancy ZiemanZieman references over 600 additional fabrics. An invaluable reference for anyone who F sews, Sew Any Fabric provides practical, clear information for novices and inspiration for more experienced sewers who are looking for new ideas and techniques. About the Author Shaeffer Claire Shaeffer is a well-known and well- respected designer, teacher, and author of 15 books, including Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide. She has traveled the world over sharing her sewing secrets with novice, experienced, and professional sewers alike. Claire was recently awarded the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award by the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC). Claire and her husband reside in Palm Springs, California. A Quick Reference to Fabrics ISBN: 0-87349-643-4SAFBean $23.99 52399 Claire Shaeffer from AZto UPC 0 46081 00643 2 9 780873 496438 INTRO_pp1-7.qxd 10/23/03 3:55 PM Page 1 SEW ANY FABRIC Foreword by Nancy Zieman Claire Shaeffer INTRO_pp1-7.qxd 10/23/03 3:55 PM Page 2 ©2003 by Claire Shaeffer All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a critical article or review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper, or electronically transmitted on radio or television. Published by Please call or write for our free catalog of publications. To place an order or obtain a free catalog, please call 800-258-0929. Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2003108199 ISBN: 0-87349-643-4 Photos page 5 courtesy of Lacy Lovelies Fashion Fabrics (left) and Simplicity Patterns (right). Photo page 8 courtesy of Lyn Lackey and Bernina of America. Photo page 108 courtesy of PtakCouture.com. Edited by Nicole Gould. Designed by Marilyn McGrane. Printed in the United States of America INTRO_pp1-7.qxd 10/23/03 3:55 PM Page 3 Acknowledgments I wish to thank the many friends, colleagues, home-sewers, and businesses who took the time to answer questions, make suggestions, and provide photographs for this book. • Special thanks to Nancy Zieman for writing the Foreword. • Barbara Atkins, Diane Faulkner, Linda Fitzerald, Lissa Gay, Vicki Haseman, Ann Ja- cobi, Dawn Jardine, Bill Jones, Judy Kirpich, Ngai Kwan, Barbie McCormick, Carolyn Morris, Linda Nicolson, Debbie Ramseyer, Abby Riba, Judith Scroggin-Gridley, Wel- moed Sisson, and Wanda Stephen for their help with the Sewability classifications. • Phyllis Tortora and Billie Collier for technical information about textiles. • Susan Brenne, Ruth Ciemnoczolowski, Marsha Cohen, Tina Colombo, Rochelle Harper, and Penny Schwyn for sharing their knowledge of various fabrics. • My colleagues in the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC) for their continued support and the wealth of information which they have shared so generously. • Cheri Collins for developing the stabilizer chart. • Joy Landeira for general suggestions and criticism. • Barb Alexander and Lee MacKenzie at Batik Butik, Susan Andriks, Art of Photogra- phy, Elaine Bakken, Kathy Barnard at Martha Pullen, Dacia Bates and Sandi Bolton at Lacy Lovelies, Bernina of America, Regina Causemann at Burda, Kathleen Cheetham at Petite Plus Patterns, Nancy Cornwell, Ila Erickson, Nancy Erickson, Frank Biemer and Fairfield Processing Co., Inc., Susan Fears, Raffaella Galeotafiore at Solotu Design Studio, Maria Guzman, Pam Howard, Pamela Isaacs-Erny at Off- the-Cuff Designs, Lyn Lackey, Jo Leichte at Bernina, Carol Kimbell, Carol Lambeth, Joi Mahon, Kathy Marrone and Jennifer Fragleasso at The McCall Pattern Co., Karen Maslowski, Linda MacPhee at MacPhee Outerwear Workshop Ltd., Make It Yourself With Wool, Eric McMaster and Kimberly Wick at KWIK•SEW®, Monica McMurry, Tammy O'Connell of Jitney Patterns, Pamela Ptak, Mary Ray, Rochelle Harper Pat- terns, Debi Shaeffer, Judy Raymond and Maureen Dudley at Simplicity Patterns, Paul Shanley and Diane Tatara at Wild Ginger Software®, Maj Smith, Gabrielle Stanley, Lena Stepanenko, Linda Stewart at Joy and Co., Marinda Stewart, Francine Walls, and Gloria Young for providing photographs. • Jim Guin at American & Efird, Inc., Wade Roberts at Gutermann, and Vicky Smith at YLI for providing threads and information about them. • Fabric Collections, Fashion Sewing Group, Freudenberg Nonwovens, Greenberg & Hammer, Inc., HTC, Inc., Palmer/Pletsch Inc., Richard Brooks, and Staple Sewing Aids Corp. for providing interfacing swatches and information about them. • My editor Niki Gould and the staff at Krause Publications for making my writing look good. INTRO_pp1-7.qxd 10/23/03 3:55 PM Page 4 Foreword Claire may not realize this, but her first book, Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide, has been a ready reference book on my desk for years. Now that I’ve had the opportunity to read her updated book Sew Any Fabric, I have added this second book to my book- shelf, which houses books that I use on a frequent basis when preparing for TV shows, writing articles, and answering viewer questions. I especially appreciate the user-friendly format, easy- to-follow directions, and practical information. It is a valuable resource for all sewing enthusiasts. I know that you, too, will keep this book handy and use it frequently. Nancy Zieman President, Nancy’s Notions Producer/Host, Public Television’s Sewing With Nancy INTRO_pp1-7.qxd 10/31/03 8:45 PM Page 5 Table of Contents Introduction • 6 Part One • The Fabrics • 8 Any Fabric . .9 Denim . .31 Polyester . .70 Acetate . .15 Double Cloth . .32 Quilted Fabric . .71 Acrylic . .16 Double-Faced Fabric .33 Raschel Knit . .72 Batiste . .17 Double Knit . .34 Rayon . .73 Beaded and Embroidered Fabric . .35 Rayon Challis . .74 Sequined . .18 Faux Fur Fabric . .36 Sandwashed Fabric . .75 Boiled Wool . .19 Faux Leather . .37 Satin . .76 Bouclé . .20 Faux Suede . .38 Shantung and Broadcloth and Felt . .39 Doupioni . .77 Chambray . .21 Fleece . .40 Silk . .78 Brocade . .22 Fur . .41 Silky . .79 Charmeuse . .23 Gabardine . .42 Silk Suiting . .80 Chenille . .24 Georgette . .43 Slinky . .81 Chiffon . .25 Hair Fibers . .44 Spandex . .82 China Silk . .26 Handkerchief Linen . .46 Stretch Knit . .83 Corduroy . .27 Handwoven Fabric . .47 Stretch Woven . .84 Cotton . .28 Hemp . .48 Stripe . .85 Crêpe de Chine . .29 Interfacing and Sweater Knit . .87 Damask . .30 Stabilizer . .49 Sweatshirt Knit . .88 Part Three Jersey . .51 Taffeta . .89 Fabric / Fiber Knits . .52 Tencel® / Lyocell . .90 Dictionary Lace . .53 Terry Cloth and 118 Lamé . .54 Velour . .91 Leather and Suede . .55 Tricot . .92 Part Four Linen . .56 Two-way and Four-way Lining and Stretch Knit . .93 Appendices Underlining . .57 Velvet . .94 138 Loosely Woven Fabric 58 Velveteen . .95 A - Needles . .139 Matelassé . .59 Waterproof Fabric . .96 B - Thread . .140 Melton . .60 Water-Repellent . .97 C - Needle / Metallic . .61 Wool . .98 Thread Guide . .142 Microfiber . .62 Wool Crepe . .100 D - Burn Test . .143 Mohair . .63 Woolen . .101 E - Stabilizers . .144 Net and Tulle . .64 Wool Flannel . .102 F - Glossary . .146 Nylon . .65 Wool - Lightweight . .103 G - Interfacings . .148 Organza . .66 Wool - Textured . .104 Plaid . .67 Worsted . .105 Resource List Pleated Fabric . .69 Zebras . .106 154 Part Two • Sewing Techniques • 108 Bibliography Seams . .109 Seam / Hem Finishes . .112 155 Hems . .113 Index Edge Finishes . .115 Closures . .116 156 INTRO_pp1-7.qxd 10/23/03 3:56 PM Page 6 Introduction A quick reference, Sew Any Fabric was designed to accommodate the busy, hectic schedules of the twenty-first century. This indispensable guide was written for everyone: home sewers and pro- fessionals alike who are sewing new fabrics, looking for fresh ideas, improving their skills, or learn- ing to sew; but it was written especially for anyone who wants good results, but doesn’t have a lot of time to get them. Sew Any Fabric’s user-friendly format focuses on 88 of today’s most popular fabrics while the Fabric/Fiber Dictionary defines and describes an additional 600 fabrics which can be sewn in a similar manner. Organized for easy reference, this must-have guide provides the practical, up-to- date information you need to sew any fabric successfully and confidently. Part One - The Fabrics is arranged in an easy-to-use, A-to-Z format. Each fabric is de- scribed in a short, concise chapter which includes a brief definition, its Sewability classification, a list of similar fabrics, suggestions for using the fabric, garment types, and appropriate design de- tails; a Sewing Checklist; and Workroom Secrets. The fabric definition describes the fabric and its most important features. This is particularly important for fabrics which are similar, have the same name, or are part of a large group. For ex- ample, terry cloth can be a woven or knit, stretch or non-stretch, and each is slightly different. The unique Sewability classification tells you how easy the fabric is to sew.
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