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Home , Boiled wool, Cashmere wool, Jersey (fabric), Organic cotton

briefing Fibres & fabrics

by philippa watkins

European are a strong force again. Their creativity and inventiveness, which has kept growing despite the years of difficulties and still prevailing uncertainties, is helping them out of crisis. Fabric Fairs such as MFS, Milano Unica and Première Vision were busy, maintaining the increase in visitors noted a year ago – even London’s little Forum was buzzing with visitors. PV and Expofil recorded 53,065 visitors overall with EU visitors now accounting for 70%. Visitors from the US, whose economy has been showing signs of recovery, accounted for 5% and there was a surge in Asian visitors, mostly from , South Korea and . With buyers showing such interest, exhibitors were cautiously optimistic.

Notable also are new techniques, and sheer craftsmanship, which create both a new PV Awards aesthetic as well as greater ‘sustainability’. There’s an air of responsibility, as the with a twist, masculine look. These fabrics industry works towards more sustainable are also printed – often in huge prints, and production. Use of water, for instance, is a double faced reversing print to plain. Italian serious issue, and new ways of water and Ratti, for instance, had a new ‘scuba’ cloth chemical free are making headway – in a crêpe-type quality made with crêpe such as digital printing and laser technology. , also printed, and Menta, always Even more spectacular is the development experimenting with extraordinary printing of new ways of finishing through ‘plasma’ techniques, had printed ribbed spacers. technology – one to really watch. While these fabrics have smooth volume, they are not flat – in fact nothing is quite PV awards 2014 Trend area at Milano Unica flat. Dimensional or textured surfaces are in The Grand Jury Prize 2014 was awarded all fabric types - layered, in blistered cloqués to GDA (), for the most outstanding, the most technically innovative, the most and quilted effects, micro-weave patterns, most symbolic and most pertinent fabric of intelligent and creative fabric. jacquards with uneven surfaces, double cloths the season. And the Imagination Prize went to Lanificio and surfaces created with fancy yarns, are all The Handle Prize was awarded to Luxury Faisa (Italy) for the most daring, the most part of the mix. (Italy) for the fabric that had the original, the most surprising fabric in terms most astonishing tactile and behavioural of fibre, technique, decoration or finishing. Versatile jerseys qualities, which touches the senses and Jersey fabrics are high profile, not just as the emotions. Impressions for A/W 15/16 print bases, but for shaping and tailoring The Innovation Prize was awarded to Ala This season, it was supple volume without for both men and women, and especially so Campolmi Industrie Tessili (Italy) for weight, as well as slight stiffness, which stood this season, which sees and as out, giving fabrics body. Bonding different strong fashion items. Jerseys have taken off surfaces together, or sandwiching, continues for menswear, shown throughout the fairs in to feature, giving fabrics this ability to shape, different blends, mostly including , but and ‘neoprene’ or ‘scuba’ like fabrics, ‘spacer’ also mixed with , cashmere, viscose or fabrics, reversible double cloths and quilted . Jackets are especially strong, in effects, are all part of the look, included in jerseys or woven jacquards, or in decorative many collections. and . Coatings were also Neoprene like fabrics and fine spacers everywhere (despite the mild winter) in full (which we are more used to seeing in our brushed qualities, felted knits and wovens bras) are also going into and jackets – and drawn, brushed mohairs. ideas seen in the Milano Unica trend theme Italian companies Dondi Jersey and Inseta at Première Vision New Finance, which had a strong, sober but O’Jersey do jerseys for men’s jackets,

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patterns on . Angelico sees a European textiles are In , Stephen Walters has silk return to colour for menswear, enriched with honeycombs, hand writing and small shades of blue, from formal blue to brilliant a strong force again. patterned jacquards and Henry Bertrand China blue, Naples blue and a surprising had extravagant multi-coloured feathery turquoise, with warmer colours in , Their creativity and , fil coupé effects, and its signature ombré yellow, orange, and burgundy, used pure or inventiveness, which chiffons. mixed to obtain movement and intensity. Print themes include food and vegetables, has kept growing despite which seem fashionable, florals, as ever Furry warmth and velvety pile essential and also spiced with images of Furry aspects are prominent, and brushed the years of difficulties butterflies, trees, birds and animals, seen at knits become more hair-like or velvety. Faux and still prevailing Att. Concorde. Paisleys are more casual, specialist Girmes has warm ‘’ made alongside geometric arabesques, and retro with fibre, dyed with short uncertainties, is helping prints, all of which go into luxury pile, and long shaggy wools. New to the them out of crisis. shirtings. Alongside are cosmic visions and collection are stretch furs, and ‘astrakahan’ clouds, and also landscapes, digitally printed with functionality - membranes are bonded in large scale. Dondi jersey at Milano Uncia between layers for functionality. Jerseys have taken off Shirting prints explode for menswear, shown Printed shirtings are growing in popularity – all made possible by digital printing. Shirting throughout the fairs in companies are adding a wealth of prints, giant or small scale, and jacquard patterns different blends, mostly – printed onto plains, as well as overprinted including wool, but Mantero at Première Vision onto yarn dyes and effect shirtings.

also mixed with cotton, are shown in traditional weights and looks, laminated or finished in some different way, but somehow with a twist – the finish might or made reversible. cashmere, viscose or be less formal, or it might be in double cloth, polyester. or bonded together as a reversible and mills Chaotic Allure Italiano at Milano Unica Girmes at Première Vision are playing with different finishes. Pattern is everywhere in jacquards and Wools and tweeds, traditional English prints, silky and otherwise, often chaotic but coatings and even suits, which actually look are back in fashion as well as and Scottish, remain a strong trend. Harris seductive. Jacquards are both dressy and like classic woven wools or tweeds. Dondi flocking. Flocked designs are applied to is flourishing with recent popularity, for daywear, targeted at jackets and coats. has in cashmere/wool blends, brush jerseys, seen at Eusebio, and Europa, from Hebrides, with They are big, quilted and blistered in double backed jerseys and weave patterns to look which also has extraordinary flocked prints beautiful heathered tweeds and colourful cloths, decorated with fancy yarn and fil like wovens, and a furry aspect for coats. on stretch cotton (seen in the Denim checks. UK mill Fox Brothers has elegantly coupé effects, or patterned with huge florals Angelico, which launched its new, Italiano exhibition in Milano Unica). Printed, coloured tweeds in plains and checks – (Goutarel), geometric arabesques, , contemporary Ke Idea collection, building devoré and embossed velvets are trending checks are now much bigger - flannels and more ethnic geometric themes (Dutel Testa at Milano Unica on expertise in menswear fabrics and it’s again, while introducing metal gives a reversibles, and is finding that its’ traditional Creation) and even graffiti. Biellese heritage, also included jerseys for creased effect. military coatings, with a slightly raspy Ratti’s jacquards really stretch the Shirting company Testa launched a tailoring. Made in extra-fine wools and Casual cotton velvets and cords are handle, is in demand. and plaids are imagination in cloqués, tweeds with cut new print line TEXTA, digitally printed blends, in double jersey and 3D constructions, lighter, though still dense, with different popular from Locharron as well as brushed fancy yarns, in wools and brushed flannels. on , in traditional engraved florals, including a quilted fabric with a wool/cotton washed and worn finishes, seen at Girmes mohairs, coloured from intense black, navy Mantero had wonderful and blends in conversationals (snails), and reworked filling and a contemporary look in boiled and Redaelli. Redaelli has more luxurious and maroon, to lighter neutrals, pastels cloqué jacquards, fil coupé with woolly yarns traditional patterns and paisleys, graffiti, wool, fabrics are suitable for both men’s and viscose/silk velvets as well as wonderfully and brights. Moon, sticking to its Heritage and prints, also pleated. wood grain patterns and jacquard effects. womenswear. luxurious cotton/cashmere cords. collection, which has proved so successful, has Limonta has extraordinary fine micro Ratti Shirting’s collection just keeps traditional tweeds, sometimes with brightly pattern jacquards in double cloths, which growing – darker, this season, in rich but Heritage inspired coloured overchecks. actually looked printed. Dutel Creation has smouldering smokey maroons, mulberrys and Another impression was of high quality, Fabrics for coats are full, soft and blown brought back a surface with chenilles blues, with designs ranging from classics in traditional fabrics brought out from the with air, from to brushed . in jacquards and decorated with big wool micro motifs, to deco patterns and geometrics, archives. Menswear suitings and jacketings Coatings are in oversized unmatched checks, yarns in weft floats. florals and paisleys. Different printing felted and given insulating properties techniques – discharge printing or blotch through finishes and bonding. ground prints and effects created through printing – give the collection greater Simply Fantasy character. There’s a strong fantasy element with Albini ‘s Albiate range had prints embroidery decoration, sequins and beads. on jacquard denims and chambray, in big Ke Idea by Angelico Heavy embroideries add to fabric surfaces, dogtooth patterns, and tiny, printed micro including wools and jacquards – decoration is dobby patterns on cotton chambray, as well A spectacular addition in the Ke Idea even added to suitings, adding value and new as big flowers and camouflage. Plus wool/ collection is a range of vintage micro-prints, handle. cotton, indigo chambray, cotton/ brushed inspired by the 1960s and ‘70s, digitally and guipure are both still massively flannel shirtings (also in big checks) and printed on wool fabrics, for suitings, jackets important, and a new feature is bonding pure brushed linen. Even newer is an indigo, and, in particular, coats as well as British Fabrics at Première Vision lace to another fabric, which could then be Henry Bertrand at Première Vision emerised !

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Ariaprene, an easily compostable, readily the cultivation, industrialization and fair- Very exciting is new recyclable & hypo-allergenic non-toxic trade of Egyptian ELS (extra long staple) plasma technology, which synthetic rubber and, still in its infancy, . In partnership with the a unique, soft leather-like material made Egyptian Cotton Research Institute-CRI, has the crucial advantage from mushroom caps! Filmar aims to enhance sustainable cotton production by providing financial support of reducing the use of Re.Verso – purely recycled and know-how to pilot the cultivation of ELS water and chemicals, Re-Verso is an eco-centric collection of fabrics cotton, in line with environmental and ethical made from recycled, pre-consumer textile standards. Components will be integrated uses little energy and waste, which was presented at Premiere to guarantee the cotton being produced in has no waste. Vision by Lanificio Stelloni. the selected pilot areas is not only organic, With a primarily wool content, the waste but respectful of environmental and fair Moreover, it offers the is collected through a fully integrated social standards, with specific attention to Taiana at Milano Unica supply chain in Italy. It is converted into children’s and women’s protection. possibility of improving yarn through a mechanical process, and New Waterless Finishing with Plasma the fabric and its can be blended, for instance with alpaca or In eco terms, the profligate use and loss cashmere, for woven and knitted fabrics. of water is serious, and traditional textile properties, without In the first instance, Lanificio Stelloni production generally uses lots. The big showed some lovely felted flannels and advantages of digital printing are now changing the textile’s key loden, for coats and jackets, including a obvious, as it becomes more widely put into properties. laminated version. practice – as it requires little water. And Re.VerSo is a partner in the C.L.A.S.S. more waterless methods of finishing are eco-hub enterprise and their products can be appearing – such as laser finishing to ‘age’ seen in the C.L.A.S.S. fabric library in Milan, denims and give them a washed look - with Fashion Cork UK Pattern is everywhere in London, Copenhagen, Madrid and New York. no water at all. jacquards and prints, But even more exciting is finishing using and production of high quality luxurious particular characteristics. Tencel has higher plasma technology, which has the crucial cloth for suitings, knitwear and fabrics for strength than cotton, thus making it a Albiate at Milano Unica silky and otherwise, often advantage of reducing the use of water and the fashion industry – all made in Britain. suitable partner with cotton for denims, a chaotic but seductive. chemicals, uses little energy and has no While production is small - with only around sector in which Tencel is already strong. Leggiuno’s range included lots of prints waste. Moreover, it offers the possibility 35,000 in the country of which only on shirting cottons and flannel cottons, in Jacquards are both dressy of improving the fabric and its properties, around 5000 would have fine enough fleece - Tencel for knits themes including birds, conversationals, without changing the textile’s key properties. the quality is high. But it’s the story, which This season Lenzing was showing just how florals and paisleys, plus cotton jacquards and for daywear, targeted Plasma technology is so exciting because attracts, and as we’ve seen, people are buying successful Tencel can be in knitwear and flat in floral motifs, fine jacquard double cloths, at jackets and coats. it has the ability to modify the surface British. bed jersey – either on its own or in blends, and cut wefts. At Taiana, there were properties of the textile, without affecting it’s where it adds softness to its partner fibre as huge photographic mountain landscapes, bulk, thereby improving the quality as well Cork was another interesting material found well as sheen and colour brilliance. Tencel somewhat kitsch but impressive, as well as as creating different performance attributes, at the show, shown in products marketed has a more pronounced depth of colour folk patterns and flock printed on denim. such as water and dirt repellence, or in the by Fashion Cork UK. The cork industry in compared with cotton, viscose and modal. Linen, which tends to be seen as a Safil Biella case of wool, a cleaning effect to increase its Portugal really suffered as screw top wine The Tencel A100 version is a smoother summer fibre, is more and more used in anti-pilling properties and make the surface bottles displaced corks and has had to find low fibrillating version, with other features blends suitable for winter such as linen with Bluesign for Safil more water repellent. Flocking, which has new outlets. In this instance, flexible fine such as deeper , which make it suitable wool, or alpaca, which adds a sort of dry, Biella spinner Safil has signed become fashionable again, is another process sheets of cork, are bonded onto polyester, and for blends with wool and synthetics. Because crunchy feel. a ‘screening agreement’ with Bluesign made easier and more stable by plasma pre- shown made up in a and products, of its breathability it is also broadening into Technologies (Swiss leader in the textile treating the fabric, thereby increasing the also for interiors insulation. Handbags active wear. The Sustainable View sustainability certification) to become a bonding capability of the modified surface, and shoes made in cork looked great – This was a record year for the Future ‘Bluesign system partner’. making it highly effective. and looked as if they have great potential. Triacetate returns Fabrics Expo in London, with over a The system works towards reducing the No wonder there is big interest in (www.fashioncorkuk.com) Mitsubishi is bringing triacetate thousand registrations from leading high environmental impact on the textile chain developing the processes! back into the fashion market with its brand street and luxury brands, demonstrating how and provide efficient solutions for the entire Fibre and yarn Developments Soalon, branded as being the only triacetate people are looking to source sustainably, and production cycle from the suppliers of Textile Forum Discoveries Lenzing’s new jumbo facility filament yarn globally. Classified as a semi understand what our clothes are made of and chemicals and raw materials to spinners and London’s little fashion fabric show, Textile Austrian cellulosic fibre maker, Lenzing, synthetic, it’s advantages are that it is from a how they are made. fabric producers, closing the circle Forum, looks really set to grow. Attracting has started production of Tencel fibre at its natural cellulosic source, has a bright lustre This was the 4th Expo, showing fashion with clothing manufacturers and fashion more and more visitors, including from the new super-sized factory at the Lenzing site in and is able to be dyed in vivid colours. The fabrics with a reduced environmental impact, brands. Safil will be the first in Italy to major retail groups and brands, this is the Austria. This is the largest factory in Austria other advantage of triacetate is that it is sourced and curated by The Sustainable become a ‘Bluesign system partner’, and only show where designers and buyers can (and largest fibre producer in the world) with possible to permanent pleat – the only other Angle - whose mission is to help minimise encourage its suppliers to increase efforts find fabrics in small quantities, often stock an annual capacity of 67,000 tons - four times permanently pleatable fibre is polyester. the fashion industry’s environmental impact. towards sustainability. supported. the size of previous production lines. The Mitsubishi Textile is also manufacturing Many commercially available fabrics were One interesting exhibitor was The British company is optimistic that it will be able to the fibre into textiles through it’s own on show, from organic silk and low impact Focus on organic ELS cotton Alpaca Fashion Company, a vertical fulfill its production target of 30,000 tons by manufacturing, so that it can keep the high leather, to different types of cotton (including Italian cotton spinner Filmar, is producer of alpaca fabrics and knitwear, the end of 2014. standard that is required to weave or knit the qualities from , grown with careful use strengthening its longstanding commitment rearing it’s own alpaca in the UK, spinning Towards that end, Lenzing is working fibre. Fabrics are in blends of triacetate with of and efficient use of rain water), to eco-sustainable development by an its own fibre and making it into a variety to increase the use of its branded polyester and other fibres, in a wide variety and innovations including recycled fibres. agreement with the Egyptian Government, of woven and knitted products. The story fibre Tencel into different market sectors, of crepes, and jerseys, including versions for Notable among theses were a ‘scuba’ cloth to implement a five-year program to enhance starts in Exmoor and ends in the design highlighting its potential because of its sportswear.

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INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI: THE SKY’S production and existing problems finding largest textile export market after the EU, THE LIMIT taxis in downtown Shanghai let alone clocked up a very significant €380 million Well the figures just keep climbing and Hongquiao . “We will be careful vetting all (compared with the €418 million imports climbing. There were 3,751 exhibitors from applicants for show space, “ said Mr Xu, “and from China into Italy) and mills are working 35 countries at last October’s Intertextile the exhibition centre, still to be completed, hard on productivity issues to contain and Shanghai. That’s a 12 percent increase on has good transport access and comprehensive even reduce their . General clothing last year with seven new countries including facilities, which will increase the efficiency and fashion business in China grew Belarus, Bulgaria, Lebanon, Macau, South and convenience of the show. Of course, 11percent in 2013 (less than the 18 percent of Africa, the UAE and Uzbekistan making after the success of the Beijing Olympics and 2012 but still remarkable) and, even though first time appearances. These seven might Shanghai Expo, it would take a brave man to Italian fabrics are destined for the upper not be the biggest players in the world, but question such claims. middle class, just a small incremental growth it is a reflection of how this show has become in that social category, considering the size a magnet for the global textile industry. of China’s population, would have a huge Indeed, it is the ‘jewel in the crown’ for Messe impact on sales generally. Frankfurt, which organises 40 other texile Above all, the number of carefully shows in 12 countries around the world. selected visitors to the Milano Unica sector But exhibitors is one thing, business is keeps increasing (up almost 15 percent at Cotonificio Ferrari another. The show attracted 69,000 visitors 3900 as against 3400 in the October 2013 from 98 countries and regions – a five percent edition). “ The confidence of Milano Unica Ferrari presents new cotton increase on last year. The show was certainly exhibitors about this enormous, strategic Cotonificio Ferrari presented new busy, but it’s too early to say how that will market continues, “says Silvio Albini. proposals for summer yarns at yarn fair Filo convert into hard business. During the ”We are ever more convinced that China will in Milan for circular and . show, China’s National Bureau of Statistics continue to represent an important part of Divided into 4 themes the collection offers announced that the world’s second largest the future for the Italian textile industry.” basic melange yarns in both cotton and Federica Tedeschi economy grew by 7.3 percent from July to And the exhibitors are behind him. viscose in different counts, stock supported. from UK colleges, announced the Texprint September 2014, down from 7.5 percent Although too early to say how the growing Tweedy or nubby effect yarns in various prizes at Indigo in Paris, where the selected in the second quarter. The figures, though sampling orders would convert into hard counts and slubs of various irregularities designers were showing their work. The hugely enviable to many Western economies, orders, exhibitors points to five significant and uneven melange. There is also a series awards were presented by the eminent are the weakest for 66 months or the first changes in their dealing with the Chinese of yarns with a ‘crepe’ handle, which is designer and entrepreneur from Biella, Nino three months of 2009, when China was hit by market. currently in demand, achieved through over Cerruti, who was generous in his praise of the the global financial crisis. 20th anniversary of Intertextile twisting, or by twisting fancy yarns together. quality of work on show. Premier Li Kequiang, however, remains 1. Chinese clients were developing a ‘loyalty’ upbeat stating that the economy had been The Milano Unica viewpoint factor. Instead of flitting from one supplier Four prizes were given in four categories: running within “a reasonable range” in the A good barometer of Chinese business to the next, every season, they were building The Colour prize for the most innovative first three quarter of the year with evidence conditions could be the Milano Unica ongoing relationships with existing suppliers. use of colour went to Charlotte Beevor; of some “positive and profound changes”. segment of the show, now in its sixth edition 2. Customers are showing a better Charlotte Heatheridge The Pattern prize (sponsored by Liberty Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of with 127 high-end Italian exhibitors of understanding of fabric quality and value. Art Fabrics) went to Jane Zhang; The Intertextile is also optimistic about prospects textiles and accessories. During the first 3. They were taking a more structured Space prize for the best design for interiors for the Textile business, “Despite the six months of 2014, Italian fabric exports to approach to their business. Instead of just (sponsored by The Clothworkers Foundation) challenges in the global economy, the textile China declined 13 per cent, with the carded picking what they liked, willy-nilly, they were went to Georgia Fisher; and the Body prize sector in this country remains upbeat, as and worsted wool business particularly planning collections and being consequential for the best fashion fabric design went to evidenced by the growing participation here.” hard hit. That could be due to various in choices. Federica Tedeschi. And indeed it is. According to Messe reasons. All sectors of the luxury market 4. The Chinese luxury market has always frankfurt’s partner, CCPIT, there is a huge from cognac to watches have been hit this been lead by menswear business. Companies Further awards were also given: waiting list of companies which want to year by Government initiatives against are now reporting more womenswear manu- The first Miroglio Texprint Award exhibit at the show, which was celebrating corruption. There is a general slowdown of facturers buying high value, Italian fabrics. Fantasia and Favola by Jersey Lomellina for Digital Innovation, which gives an its 20th anniversary and started with the Chinese economy and clothing stocks, 5. Childrenswear has become an important opportunity to gain professional experie just 100 exhibitors in 1994. If they were at both retail and manufacturing level, new market for Italians as Chinese seek to Jersey Lomellina adds new mélange nce at Miroglio, was awarded to Charlotte to accommodate everyone,” says Mr Xu are know to be uncomfortably high. But, dress their ‘little emperors’ in appropriately Italian Jersey Lomellina has new jersey Heatheridge. It was awarded for her Yingxin, Executive Vice Chairman , “they above all, it might reflect a more ‘feet on the regal clothing. fabrics Fantasia and Favola, which have Tali Furman innovative screen print and finishing process would need to add another 20,000 sq mts ground’ approach from both the Chinese and a mélange effect in 86%/14% to create extraordinary images and 3d to the 15 exhibition halls they already have Italian sides of the market, as they clear Something for everyone elasthane. Soft and very elegantly surfaces, on different materials. at the Shanghai New International Expo their lines. Certainly, the Italians are coming The number of product zones, from comfortable, the fabrics are ideal for Centre. Hence, the planned move to the new to understand that the market might not be Salon Europe to the Sustainability zone underwear garments, and perfectly fit the The Woolmark Company Texprint National Exhibition and Convention Center as big as they or their very optimistic local (now including an Educational Zone and silhouette and shape it. They are compact non Award, judged by Nino Cerruti together in the commercial district of Hongqiao, agents thought it might be. Everybody talks ecoBoutique display), continue to grow. see-through and breathable. They are also with Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton of the Shanghai, where the next spring edition of about the growing middle class in China, but Most striking was the growth of the suitable for general fitness and sportswear. trend-setting menswear brand Agi & Sam, the show (March 18-20, 1915) will cover a the reality remains that Italian fabrics cost Beyond Denim section to cover an entire went to Tali Furman, whose cohesive 100,000 sq mts. Not only that, it will be held five times as much as Chinese and over 95 hall with 150 domestic and international collection impressed the judges because of its in conjunction and proximity to Yarn Expo per cent of merchandise on sale in Chinese exhibitors showing not just denim fabrics Nino Cerruti honours Texprint beautifully subtle use of print on fine quality Spring, and Chic, the massive apparel show. malls is based on €4 fabric. but wash innovations, new technologies 2014 Awards Merino wool. “How big is big?” we asked, especially But, on the positive side, as Silvio and sustainable practices. Texprint which each years selects the most Charlotte Beevor and Federica Tedeschi considering the oft quoted Chinese maxim Albini, president of Milano Unica pointed exciting and talented new textile designers Charlotte Beevor also won the lululemon athletica prize. to move into “high quality, value added” out, Italian exports to China, Italy’s second David R. Shah

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