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Fibres & Fabrics BrIefInG fibres & fabrics By philippa watkIns European textiles are a strong force again. Their creativity and inventiveness, which has kept growing despite the years of difficulties and still prevailing uncertainties, is helping them out of crisis. Fabric Fairs such as MFS, Milano Unica and Première Vision were busy, maintaining the increase in visitors noted a year ago – even London’s little Textile Forum was buzzing with visitors. PV and Expofil recorded 53,065 visitors overall with EU visitors now accounting for 70%. Visitors from the US, whose economy has been showing signs of recovery, accounted for 5% and there was a surge in Asian visitors, mostly from Japan, South Korea and China. With buyers showing such interest, exhibitors were cautiously optimistic. Notable also are new techniques, and sheer craftsmanship, which create both a new PV Awards aesthetic as well as greater ‘sustainability’. There’s an air of responsibility, as the with a twist, masculine look. These fabrics industry works towards more sustainable are also printed – often in huge prints, and production. Use of water, for instance, is a double faced reversing print to plain. Italian serious issue, and new ways of water and Ratti, for instance, had a new ‘scuba’ cloth chemical free finishing are making headway – in a crêpe-type quality made with crêpe such as digital printing and laser technology. yarns, also printed, and Menta, always Even more spectacular is the development experimenting with extraordinary printing of new ways of finishing through ‘plasma’ techniques, had printed ribbed spacers. technology – one to really watch. While these fabrics have smooth volume, they are not flat – in fact nothing is quite PV AWArDs 2014 Trend area at Milano Unica flat. Dimensional or textured surfaces are in The Grand Jury Prize 2014 was awarded all fabric types - layered, in blistered cloqués to GDA (Italy), for the most outstanding, the most technically innovative, the most and quilted effects, micro-weave patterns, most symbolic and most pertinent fabric of intelligent and creative fabric. jacquards with uneven surfaces, double cloths the season. And the Imagination Prize went to Lanificio and surfaces created with fancy yarns, are all The Handle Prize was awarded to Luxury Faisa (Italy) for the most daring, the most part of the mix. Jersey (Italy) for the fabric that had the original, the most surprising fabric in terms most astonishing tactile and behavioural of fibre, technique, decoration or finishing. Versatile jerseys qualities, which touches the senses and Jersey fabrics are high profile, not just as the emotions. ImPressIons for A/W 15/16 print bases, but for shaping and tailoring The Innovation Prize was awarded to Ala This season, it was supple volume without for both men and women, and especially so Campolmi Industrie Tessili (Italy) for weight, as well as slight stiffness, which stood this season, which sees jackets and coats as out, giving fabrics body. Bonding different strong fashion items. Jerseys have taken off surfaces together, or sandwiching, continues for menswear, shown throughout the fairs in to feature, giving fabrics this ability to shape, different blends, mostly including wool, but and ‘neoprene’ or ‘scuba’ like fabrics, ‘spacer’ also mixed with cotton, cashmere, viscose or fabrics, reversible double cloths and quilted polyester. Jackets are especially strong, in effects, are all part of the look, included in jerseys or woven jacquards, or in decorative many collections. wools and tweeds. Coatings were also neoprene like fabrics and fine spacers everywhere (despite the mild winter) in full (which we are more used to seeing in our brushed qualities, felted knits and wovens bras) are also going into suits and jackets – and drawn, brushed mohairs. ideas seen in the milano Unica trend theme Italian companies Dondi Jersey and Inseta at Première Vision New Finance, which had a strong, sober but O’Jersey do jerseys for men’s jackets, 17 fibres & fabrics Textile vieW no 108 patterns on boiled wool. Angelico sees a European textiles are In silk, Stephen Walters has silk return to colour for menswear, enriched with honeycombs, hand writing and small lurex shades of blue, from formal blue to brilliant a strong force again. patterned jacquards and Henry Bertrand China blue, naples blue and a surprising had extravagant multi-coloured feathery turquoise, with warmer colours in camel, Their creativity and pile, fil coupé effects, and its signature ombré yellow, orange, and burgundy, used pure or inventiveness, which chiffons. mixed to obtain movement and intensity. Print themes include food and vegetables, has kept growing despite which seem fashionable, florals, as ever furry warmth and velvety pile essential and also spiced with images of furry aspects are prominent, and brushed the years of difficulties butterflies, trees, birds and animals, seen at knits become more hair-like or velvety. faux and still prevailing Att. Concorde. Paisleys are more casual, fur specialist Girmes has warm ‘furs’ made alongside geometric arabesques, and retro with alpaca fibre, yarn dyed with short uncertainties, is helping scarf prints, all of which go into luxury pile, and long shaggy wools. new to the them out of crisis. shirtings. Alongside are cosmic visions and collection are stretch furs, and ‘astrakahan’ clouds, and also landscapes, digitally printed with functionality - membranes are bonded in large scale. Dondi jersey at Milano Uncia between layers for functionality. Jerseys have taken off shirting prints explode for menswear, shown Printed shirtings are growing in popularity – all made possible by digital printing. shirting throughout the fairs in companies are adding a wealth of prints, giant or small scale, and jacquard patterns different blends, mostly – printed onto plains, as well as overprinted including wool, but Mantero at Première Vision onto yarn dyes and flannel effect shirtings. also mixed with cotton, are shown in traditional weights and looks, laminated or finished in some different way, but somehow with a twist – the finish might or made reversible. cashmere, viscose or be less formal, or it might be in double cloth, polyester. or bonded together as a reversible and mills Chaotic Allure Denim Italiano at Milano Unica Girmes at Première Vision are playing with different finishes. Pattern is everywhere in jacquards and Wools and tweeds, traditional english prints, silky and otherwise, often chaotic but coatings and even suits, which actually look Velvets are back in fashion as well as and scottish, remain a strong trend. Harris seductive. Jacquards are both dressy and like classic woven wools or tweeds. Dondi flocking. flocked designs are applied to Tweed is flourishing with recent popularity, for daywear, targeted at jackets and coats. has flannels in cashmere/wool blends, brush jerseys, seen at Eusebio, and Europa, from Harris Tweed Hebrides, with They are big, quilted and blistered in double backed jerseys and weave patterns to look which also has extraordinary flocked prints beautiful heathered tweeds and colourful cloths, decorated with fancy yarn and fil like wovens, and a furry aspect for coats. on stretch cotton denims (seen in the Denim checks. Uk mill Fox Brothers has elegantly coupé effects, or patterned with huge florals Angelico, which launched its new, Italiano exhibition in milano Unica). Printed, coloured tweeds in plains and checks – (Goutarel), geometric arabesques, damasks, contemporary Ke Idea collection, building devoré and embossed velvets are trending checks are now much bigger - flannels and more ethnic geometric themes (Dutel Testa at Milano Unica on expertise in menswear fabrics and it’s again, while introducing metal gives a reversibles, and is finding that its’ traditional Creation) and even graffiti. Biellese heritage, also included jerseys for creased effect. military coatings, with a slightly raspy Ratti’s jacquards really stretch the shirting company Testa launched a tailoring. made in extra-fine wools and Casual cotton velvets and cords are handle, is in demand. Tartans and plaids are imagination in cloqués, tweeds with cut new print line TEXTA, digitally printed blends, in double jersey and 3D constructions, lighter, though still dense, with different popular from Locharron as well as brushed fancy yarns, in wools and brushed flannels. on cottons, in traditional engraved florals, including a quilted fabric with a wool/cotton washed and worn finishes, seen at Girmes mohairs, coloured from intense black, navy Mantero had wonderful silks and blends in conversationals (snails), and reworked filling and a contemporary look in boiled and Redaelli. redaelli has more luxurious and maroon, to lighter neutrals, pastels cloqué jacquards, fil coupé with woolly yarns traditional patterns and paisleys, graffiti, wool, fabrics are suitable for both men’s and viscose/silk velvets as well as wonderfully and brights. Moon, sticking to its Heritage and prints, also pleated. wood grain patterns and jacquard effects. womenswear. luxurious cotton/cashmere cords. collection, which has proved so successful, has Limonta has extraordinary fine micro Ratti Shirting’s collection just keeps traditional tweeds, sometimes with brightly pattern jacquards in double cloths, which growing – darker, this season, in rich but Heritage inspired coloured overchecks. actually looked printed. Dutel Creation has smouldering smokey maroons, mulberrys and Another impression was of high quality, fabrics for coats are full, soft and blown brought
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