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Weaving Technology: Advances and Challenges Ii

Weaving Technology: Advances and Challenges Ii

Volume3, Issue 1, Summer 2003

WEAVING TECHNOLOGY: ADVANCES AND CHALLENGES II

Abdelfattah M. Seyam College of , N. C. State University Raleigh, NC, USA

ABSTRACT

This paper reviews the recent advances in industry and addresses the challenges that face the weaving industry. The paper sheds the light on how the weaving machine manufacturers and producers might strengthen the weaving industry by further advance the technology and taking advantages of the current and new advances in weaving technologies.

KEYWORDS: Weaving, Automation, Jacquard, Pattern Change.

INTRODUCTION and how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric producers Recently weaving machine producers might strengthen the weaving industry by introduced to the woven fabric further advance the technology and taking manufacturers a sizeable number of advantages of the current and new advances technological advances. Examples of such in weaving technologies and supporting advances are higher speeds than seen before, systems. a higher level of automation, a new Jacquard shedding concept, waste reduction, and on- ADVANCES IN WEAVING line quality monitoring. These advances may enable the developed nations to drastically Weaving Speeds lower the labor cost and may be able to At recent machinery shows (ITMA’ 99, compete in the commodity fabric markets. ATME-I’ 2001), weaving machine Despite these significant development in manufacturers showed a broad range of weaving, weavers in the developed and machines with higher speed and rate of developing nations are faced with serious filling insertion (RFI) than seen before. The competition from other fabric forming fabric quality, which is significantly systems such as needlepunching and impacted by efficiency, is a must for the hydroentanglement nonwoven technologies. fabric manufacturers to stay competitive. These nonwoven technologies established The interrelationships between machine themselves in numerous markets and are speed, weaving efficiency, fabric expected to seriously compete with weaving construction parameters and fabric quality industry in carpet and apparel markets. This must be considered when acquiring new paper reviews the recent advances in machines. In the following sections, the weaving industry. Additionally, it addresses fastest weaving machines that were the challenges that face the weaving industry

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exhibited at ITMA’ 99 and ATME-I’ 2001 reduced from 28 to 25 picks/cm. This are reported. example demonstrates how the speed is impacted by fabric construction. At Fastest Air Jet Machines ATME-I’ 2001, the Italian Company RFI of 2,000 m/min. of air jet weaving used Promatech (Produces Somet and Vamatex to be the limit a few years ago. Recently, weaving machines) showed their 3.4 m wide this limit has been overcome by several air Mythos weaving sheeting at 630 jet weaving machine manufacturers. At picks/min or 2,142 m/min RFI [4]. Toyoda ITMA’ 99 Dornier showed the widest (4.30 featured six air jet machines with one m) air jet machine (LWV8/J) weaving weaving at RFI higher than 2,000 m/min; sheeting fabric at 600 picks/min equivalent the JA2S-390DE-MT-T610. The machine to 2,520 m/min RFI. The machine was was weaving two panels suiting equipped with Staubli Jacquard head model fabric of 1.75 m width in at speed of LX 3200 with 9800 hooks. Dornier also 600 picks/min (2,100 m/min RFI). At showed their 3.8 m wide type LWV2/E4 ITMA’ 99, Tsudakoma showed four air jet machine with new gantry (designed to hold machines with over 2,000 m/min RFI. The 1600 mm warp beam) weaving work wear fastest they showed is their ultrahigh speed fabric at 600 picks/min (2,002 m/min ZAX-190-2C machine of 1.9 m width. The RFI). At the same show, Picanol featured a machine is equipped with a new automatic wide range of air jet machines. Four filling insertion control, a positive let-off, machines exceeded the 2,000 m/min RFI and improved beat-up motion. This barrier. Table 1 shows the data of these combination allowed the machine to weave machines. At ATME-I’ 2001, Picanol a fine filament fabric at 1,800 picks/min or introduced for the first time their new 3.4 m 3,222 m/min RFI. Their second fastest is the and 1.9 m wide OmniPlus air jet machines. ZAX-390-2C-C4 machine running 2 panel The 3.4 m machine was producing sheeting fabric (bed sheet and case) sheeting with two different filling at at 800 picks/min or 2,952 m/min RFI. The 850 picks/min and 750 picks/min or 2,890 ZAX-340-6C-D16 was constructing a m/min and 2,550 m/min RFI. The 1.9 m Curtain with variable pick density at 700 machine with Jacquard head was weaving picks/min corresponding to 2,170 m/min three different filling yarns: chenille, RFI. The ZAX-340-8C-J was weaving four filament, and slub yarns [4]. At ITMA’ 99, panels of bath towel fabric at speed of 700 Somet showed a 3.4 m wide Clipper picks/min equivalent to 2,128 m/min RFI. machine weaving Voile fabric at 650 At ATME-I’ 2001, the company exhibited picks/min (2,048 m/min RFI). The machine their ZAX-340-2C-C4 air jet machine with ran at higher speed of 750 picks/min (2,363 303 cm width in reed running at 850 m/min RFI) when the pick density was picks/min or 2576 m/min RFI [4].

Table 1. Picanol Fastest Air Jet Machines [1]

Machine Type Fabric Speed, RFI, picks/min m/min Omni-F-2-E 190 Acetate Lining 1,600 2,384 Omni-F-2-P 340 Voile 750 2,340 Omni-4-P 380 Two Panels Sheeting 720 2,722 Omni-4-J 250 950 2,090

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Fastest Water Jet Machines other manufacturer). The fastest machine At ITMA’ 99, Toyoda exhibited their ultra was the Leonardo h. 3600, which is 3.6 m high speed LW1F-190CS-EF-602 machine wide, producing clothing at 430 with crank shedding motion constructing picks/min equivalent to 1,550 m/min RFI. fabric of 1.73 m at 1,500 picks/min (2,595 m/min RFI). Tsudakoma Multiphase Weaving showed two water jet machines with one that exceeded the 2,000 m/min RFI; the The Sulzer Textil’s M8300 multiphase ZW405C—190-1C-4S. The machine was weaving machine, which was revealed for running a taffeta fabric at 1,600 picks/min or the first time at ITMA ’95, continued to be 2,720 m/min RFI. one of the main attractions at ITMA ‘99. Two machines were shown. One was Fastest Projectile Machines producing Cretonne fabric of Sulzer was the only company that showed width in reed of 1.885 m at a speed of 3230 this type of weaving machines at ITMA’ 99. picks/min (6,088 m/min rate of filling The fastest is their 3.9 m machine type insertion). The second machine was weaving P7300 B 390 N 2 EP R D1 weaving a stretch a 2X1 twill (for the first time) work wear cloth at 360 picks/min corresponding fabric of width in reed of 1.695 m at a speed to 1,400 m/min RFI. of 2,430 picks/min (4,118 m/min rate of filling insertion). At ATMI’ 2001, the Fastest Rapier Machines M8300 was shown weaving 2X1 twill At ITMA’ 99, Dornier exhibited a new 1.9 apparel fabric at 4,770 m/min RFI [4]. m wide machine type PTV4/S16 with Staubli dobby model 2861 running fancy Significant improvements in production and shirting fabric at 570 x 2 picks/min efficiency of the M8300 machines were corresponding to 2000 m/min rate of filling noticed at the ITMA’ 99 and ATME-I’ 2001 insertion. Picanol showed six new rapier as compared to those shown at ITMA’ 95 machines of width range of 1.9 m – 3.4 m., and OTEMAS’ 97. For example, at from these, the two fastest are the Gamma- OTEMAS’ 97 one machine was weaving the 8-R 190 and the Gamma-4-R 340 machines. Cretonne fabric at 5315 m/min rate of filling They were weaving shirting and fancy voile insertion. This translates to almost 15% at 700 picks/min (1,316 m/min RFI) and 440 increase in speed alone. Several picks/min (1,373 m/min RFI), respectively. improvements have been done to reduce the Somet featured seven of Thema Super Excel friction on the warp yarns, which led to the machines of width range of 1.9 m – 3.6 m. improvements in production and efficiency. The fastest of these is their widest machine The author believes that the speed limit of that was weaving an apparel fabric at 430 the M8300 has not been reached yet and picks/min (1,505 m/min RFI). Sulzer there is a room for further improvement. The showed thirteen of their rapier machines. M8300, however, will be limited to the The fastest is their 2 m wide type G6300 B production of commodity fabrics of simple 200 N 8 SP20 machine producing ladies’ weaves due to the design of the shedding wear at speed of 700 picks/min (1,330 mechanism. m/min RFI). Sulzer continued to show their G6300 machines at ATME-I’ 2001 with At such high production rates of the M8300, wider range of applications and higher the labor cost is dramatically reduced. This speed. Their 2.2 m machine was running at qualifies the machine for weavers in 650 picks/min or 1,430 m/min RFI. At developed countries where the labor wage is ITMA’ 99 Vamatex, which is specialized in high. Weavers in USA and Europe have rapier machine making, showed sixteen realized this fact and acquired M8300 machines (more rapier machines than any machines to compete with low wage

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weavers in developing countries. Sulzer Grosse UNISHED Textil has sold M8300 multiphase weaving Grosse showed their patented UNISHED machines to three companies in USA and positive electronic Jacquard head for the Europe: Filatures & Tissages de Saulxures first time at ITMA’ 99, Figure 1. The of France, Elmer & Zweifel of Germany, dimensions of the Jacquard head and the and Ramtex Inc. of USA. Additionally, a individual control of each (warp end) significant number of M8300 machines are allow the heddle wires to be set vertically. now installed in pilot plants around the These settings permit the elimination of world indication of its maturity and harness cords, hooks, magnets, pulleys, pull acceptance [4]. down springs and more significantly the gantry. This results in lower building and air New Jacquard Concept conditioning costs. The Jacquard head is mounted directly on the side frames of the Grosse and Staubli exhibited completely weaving machine thus allowing Quick Style new approaches in Jacquard formation. Change (QSC) for the first time in Jacquard The two approaches are different. They weaving. In this system, QSC can be have, however, common goals: reduction in conducted by changing the Jacquard head the Jacquard engine parts and elimination of and . The UNISHED was mounted the gantry. While the machines are still in on Dornier LWV6/J air jet weaving Prototype Stage, the author believes the new machine. The machine was weaving Jacquard technologies would allow weavers Cotton/ Upholstery fabric and to produce intricate fabrics with running at 800 picks/min or RFI of 1,136. manufacturing cost close to commodity fabric cost.

Figure 1 Grosse’s UNISHED Jacquard Head [1]

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Staubli UNIVAL 100 the control of individual warp end by a At ITMA’ 99, Staubli introduced for the first stepping motor permit the harness cords to time their UNIVAL 100 electronic Jacquard be set vertically, (Figure 2). The design of shedding mechanism. The shed formation is the UNVAL 100 permits the elimination of achieved through controlling each individual hooks, knives, and the gantry. The UNIVAL warp end by a stepping motor. The harness 100 was running on Picanol Omni-4-J 250 cord/warp end selection is performed air jet machine. The machine was producing electronically and hence fabric design is mattress ticking fabric with 2.2 m width in achieved in the same way as any electronic reed at 950 picks/min or 2,090 m/min RFI. Jacquard system. The dimension of the The total number of warp yarns was 7,100 Jacquard head (the Jacquard head and tie controlled by 7,100 stepping motors. width is the same as the width in reed) and

Figure 2 Staubli’s UNIVAL 100 Jacquard Head [1]

Versatility improved QSC system with new pneumatic shaft and self-centering hook-up of the Machine makers have continued to compete harnesses was used. Almost all major to offer the weavers innovative weaving weaving machine makers offer their own machinery for versatile operation. In this version of QSC, which is a must system for section the most significant innovations for versatile weaving operation as well as high- versatility shown at ITMA ’99 and ATME-I’ speed machines. 2001 are reviewed. Automatic Pattern Change Quick Style Change (QSC) At ITMA’ 99, Dornier demonstrated an on- Dornier conducted, at ITMA’ 99, a quick the-fly automatic pattern change on their air style change from a fine worsted fabric to a jet LWV8/J machine, which is equipped pure cashmere fabric in less than 30 min. An with Staubli electronic Jacquard head model

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LX 3200. The machine was switched from variable pick density control system. The sheeting to napery fabric without stop. variation in pick density can be programmed Beside versatility, automatic pattern change as desired through controlling electronic let- has caused the removal of the pattern change off and take-up mechanisms via task from the list of downtime items. microprocessor. Such development provides fabric producers with a tool to create fancy Pneumatic Tuck-In Motions effects in the filling directions. Several companies showed new tuck-in motions based on pneumatic. The principle Picanol’s Sumo Motor of the pneumatic tucking-in is the use of air The Sumo motor is a new development by to hold the filling end then force the filling Picanol. It was shown at ITMA’99 running end to be tucked-in into the next shed by air. Gamma rapier . At ATME-I’ 2001, At ITMA’ 99 show, Dornier exhibited their Picanol showed their new TERRYplus (for PneumaTucker on two air jet machines terry fabric production) and OmniPlus air jet (LTNF8/J and LWV2/E4), Tsudakoma weaving machines with Sumo motors [4]. showed their ZNT “needle-less” tuck-in on With such motor, the machine can be two air jet machines (ZAX-210-6C-D16 and derived directly without belt or clutch. The ZAX-340-8C-J) and Somet showed their starting torque is very powerful and patented tuck-in motion on a Clipper air jet adjustable. The beat-up force is constant machine. Tsudakoma continued to show from the start through out the entire weaving their pneumatic tuck-in motion on several process. The use of Sumo motors may ZAX machines at ATME-I’ 2001. eliminate some start marks. The Sumo motor can be programmed to run at different Due to the elimination of the tuck-in needle speeds as desired. This option is useful in and the mechanical elements that drive it, case of weaving different filling yarns of pneumatic tuck-in motions can run much different qualities. Another situation is a faster as compared to those traditional quality problem with a certain length of mechanical tuck-in devices. With this warp, the motor may run slower to avoid development, air jet machines can now excessive stops. produce fabrics with tucked-in since the speed of selvage formation is compatible CHALLENGES with air jet weaving speed. Additional advantages of using pneumatic tuck-in are There is no doubt that weaving machine the elimination of reed damage as a result of manufacturers brought exciting new malfunctioning of mechanical elements and developments that covered many aspects in wear of warp ends at the fabric edges due to weaving in recent years. The weaving friction between yarns and tuck-in needle. industry, however, is facing tough competition from nonwovens’ industry. For cosmetic reasons, tuck-in are Perhaps, the toughest competition comes required for certain types of fabrics such as from needlepunching and worsted and suiting fabrics, tablecloth, hydroentanglement nonwovens. sheeting, and towels. The pneumatic tuck-in motions allowed the air jet weaving Needlepunching technologies to compete for these markets. The needlepunching industry was once Dornier, Somet and Tsudakoma have shown considered a “waste products” industry, but their machines with pneumatic tuckers has now successfully established itself in weaving examples for these markets. numerous high-tech markets where high quality and consistency are must. Recent Variable Pick Density classification showed that there are eighteen At ITMA’ 99 and ATME-I’ 2001, many markets of needlepunched products. These exhibitors demonstrated machines with include: automotive (headliner, door trim)

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filtration, furniture and , geotextiles, performance needle looms. Today’s needle roofing, aerospace ( tiles, brake pads), looms are capable of running at speeds of up agriculture, advanced composites, industrial to 3,000 strokes/min. with working width of (belting, roller linings), insulators, marine, up to 15 meters which translates to several medical (blood filters, bandages), paper hundred meter squared per minute. making , protective clothing, sports felts Needlepunched fabrics with intricate designs (floor covering, tennis ball covers), synthetic and color effects can be produced. Figure 3 leather/shoes, wall coverings, and shows examples of needlepunched fabric miscellaneous (carpet underlay, car wash designs. The fabric design creation is brushes, oil sorbents, office products) [2]. possible by an additional punching stage that uses special needles. The design capability

of needlepunching technology is limited The success of the industry can be attributed compared to the weaving technology. to low manufacturing cost and the flexibility Needlepunching technology, however, is of the needlepunching technology to tailor still in its early stage compared to the products to meet a variety of end use weaving technology. The weavers are requirements. The increasing demand for expected to face even tougher competition needled fabrics prompted machine from needlepunching especially in the manufacturers to construct high-speed/high carpeting and home furnishing markets.

Figure 3. Patterned needlepunched fabrics (Source: Fehrer’s Literature titled “Structuring Needle Punching Machines”)

Hydroentanglement

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The process of entangling assemblies together thus forming an integrated web using water energy was established by Du with its held by frictional forces. The Pont in 1968. The principle of the goal of the hydroentanglement process is hydroentanglement (or spunlace) process is thus to produce fabrics with aesthetics and directing high energy fine jets of water performance indistinguishable from through fiberweb that is supported by a comparable woven or knits at the forming belt (usually woven) to impinge on manufacturing cost of nonwovens. Figure 4 the pattern of the supporting belt. As a result shows an image of hydroentangled fabric. of the high water energy, the fibers entangle

Hydroentangled Woven

Figure 4. Comparison between hydroentangled and woven fabrics

A typical production line of hydroentangled facilities for a given (or spunlace) fabrics consists of fiber feed, production rate. web forming (usually carding and cross- • The technology is not limited to lapping technologies or wet lay web certain types of fibers or fiber former), hydroentanglement unit, and dryer. length. The advantages of hydroentanglement • The technology is the fastest fabric technology are: forming system (300 m/min – 600 • There is no fiber damage. m/min [3]). • The technology is capable of producing composite structures During the last three decades, the (such as interlacing of fibers with hydroentanglement process has been a reinforced ). rapidly growing segment of the nonwoven • The process is environmentally technology complex because of its ability to friendly. achieve excellent fabric properties. The • The space requirement of advances in the process can be seen in terms hydroentanglement production line of: (a) high annual growth in the US and (b) is less demanding than weaving or increase in investment by machine producers in developing more versatile

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process with less energy consumption. This barriers in diapers and sanitary napkins. technology is penetrating new markets. With the recent developments of Miratec® Today hydroentangled fabrics are primarily spunlace fabrics by PGI and EVOLON® used in the USA for aseptic barriers, medical spunlace fabrics by Freudenberg, the sponges and dressings, wiping cloths, and hydroentangled fabrics are expected to claim specialty fabrics (Figure 5). In Japan, a significant market share in the clothing spunlace fabrics are also used for hygiene commodity markets.

Interlinings& Absorbent Other Hygiene Products

Other Medical Medical Packs and Industrial Gowns Apparel

Sponges

Wipes

Figure 5. End use of hydroentangled fabrics (Source: Handbook-INDA, 1999)

FACING THE CHALLENGES • Fully automated style change. • Multiphase weaving machine with While the new developments in weaving are Dobby and Jacquard shedding significant, the demand for more is needed. motions. Many developments are still needed to allow • Automation of warp breaks. the weaving industry to face the tough • Develop smart interface of Imaging nonwovens’ competition. Machine and CAD systems. manufacturers should continue to improve the current technologies and introduce new Weavers will have to continue developing technologies to farther their capabilities and new attractive fabrics with multi-color versatilities. Among these developments are: designs by taking the advantage of newly developed Jacquard technology that allow • Elimination of drop wires as mean them to individually control warp yarns. The of monitoring warp end breaks new advances permit weavers to produce through enhancing warp quality such attractive fabrics in extremely short and/or smart sensors. runs; advantages that the nonwoven • Fully automated start mark technologies are not currently set for. mechanism that does not need labor intervention. • Reduce/eliminate selvage waste.

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REFERENCES Fabrics, International Nonwovens Journal 8, No. 2, 55-60, 1999.

1. Seyam, A. M., Advances in Weaving and 3. Pourdeyhimi, B., and Batra, S.K., Weaving Preparation at ITMA ’99, Chapter Implications for the Nonwovens Industry, in Progress Journal, Volume 30, Chapter in Textile Progress Journal, Volume Number 1 / 2, 22-40, 2000. 30, Number 1 / 2, 51-67, 2000.

2. Seyam, A. M., Applications of On-line 4. Vonwiller, E., Smooth Operation, Textile Monitoring of Dynamic Forces Experienced Industries, 18-23, August by Needles during Formation of Needled

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