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FROM CONCEPT TO CREATION: A DIGITAL PRINTER TO AID IN THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

Dr. Sherry Schofield Dr. Jessica Ridgway Retail, Merchandising and Product Development – College of Human Sciences

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

The proposed funding from the Student Technology Fee will be used to purchase a wide- format digital ink-jet fabric printer which will provide students the unique opportunity to print their own developed creative ideas using this cutting edge technology. Our goal with this project is to further integrate current industry technologies into the Retail, Merchandising, and Product Development (RMPD) course curriculum.

Within the textile and apparel industry, when a new product is being developed, often the designer is forced to use the available prints that were designed by someone else. This process can limit the designer’s ability to create a truly unique product or garment and to the designer is not able to design from initial concept to final product. Today’s technology is changing this process; with the introduction of digital textile printers, designers can take part in the entire product development process starting with . With the incorporation of a digital printer and the accompanying software into the RMPD textile lab, our students will have the ability to experience a similar concept to product process with the creation of his or her own sample fabric, which could ultimately result in new and unique products.

Furthermore, the use of a digital textile printer affords students the ability to incorporate technology into the product development process. This not only emulates current industry practices, but also allows for further exploration in product development. For example, digital textile prints can be engineered to enable a continuous printed pattern across seam lines, which allows for greater visual impact and intricacy in patternmaking. The ability to engineer prints across pattern pieces also provides a reasonably sustainable process of fabric creation by eliminating to need to print larger yardage quantities to enable print matching. In addition, there is less fabric waste when exact pattern pieces are printed from stock yardage.

Upon researching several digital textile printers, the Mutoh ValueJet 1628TD is the best option for our intended use. The 1628TD is different from other printers because it has bulk ink system making it a more sustainable and cost effective option. This printer has the ability to print both small sample runs as well as larger yardage for those who are interested in pursuing creating an entire garment. For our purpose this is ideal, as initially the students will be required to create and print small fabric swatches for their course projects, but will also allow some students the ability to print enough yardage to create sample garments. Additionally, the 1628TD has two heads which allows for a true 1440dpi output resolution for those students who wish to incorporate photo quality textile prints into their work. The creation of the textile designs can be manipulated with software that is currently available in the RMPD department. Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator as well as Kaledo can be used to create the textile prints which can be imported in the Wasatch SoftRip software used for the printer.

As we continue to grow and strengthen the product development course curriculum, many students would benefit from having access to a digital textile printer. Additionally, due to the cost of purchasing a textile printer, there are a limited number of programs across the country who have access to this equipment. By obtaining this new technology we could propel the RMPD curriculum further and bring further national recognition to the department.

IMPACT ON INSTRUCTION

The proposed digital printer would have a tiered impact on all students with the RMPD curriculum. The technology would be introduced to the students in two introductory courses, be applied in two mid-level courses, and gain mastery within our graduate curriculum. As such, the printer would impact instruction in several courses, but would ultimately impact all students in the department. Listed below are how we intend to initially introduce the technology into the courses.

Currently, the Introductory Science (CTE 1401C) course has a textile printing unit where students complete hand printing and techniques during their textile lab. At this introductory level, students could now have the opportunity to understand how the digital textile printer works, the implications of using reactive dyes and the industry implications for using a digital textile printer. This course has approximately 240 undergraduate student enrolled each year.

Additionally, in the Trend Analysis and Forecasting (CTE 3809) course, students learn how to use Kaledo software and create textile prints. With the use of the digital textile printer students would be able to take the process of creating digital prints one step further by actually printing their designs to fabric. With the versatility of the digital textile printer, students could incorporate course knowledge and research current fabric trends to select the most appropriate fabrics and fiber on which to print. This course has approximately 150 students enrolled each year.

At the graduate level, in the Product Innovation and Management (CTE 6436) course, students would be able to master the use and application of the digital textile printer. In addition, they could use the printed fabric or engineered print into the creation of a final product. The students would be encouraged to exhibit their final project at national and international conferences and shows. This course can have a maximum number of 15 graduate students per year. The graduate students would also have the opportunity to complete independent research using the digital printing technology.

PROJECT PLAN

The initial stage of the project should take approximately four months. During this time, orders will be placed, lab space will be prepared, and equipment will be received and installed. After equipment installation, the project team will be trained in how to use the equipment. The project team will consist of RMPD faculty members and one graduate student who will serve as the digital printer technician. The digital printer technician will aid faculty members and undergraduate students with preparing files, printing, steaming, and rinsing of fabric. Training sessions for the software and printer will be included in the purchase cost/fees of the Mutoh 1628TD. Additionally, a dedicated computer that connects to the printer and runs the Wasatch SoftRip software will be required.

The printer and software will be ready for use by the first week of the fall semester. During the Fall of 2016 training and demonstration sessions will be organized for faculty. By Spring of 2017we anticipate having printer technologies included into course projects.

RELATIONSHIP TO OTHER UNIVERSITY ACTIVITIES AND ENHANCEMENT

As it relates to other university activities, the digital textile printer will be used as a tool for creative scholarship in garment design and textile print design. Current faculty will utilize the printer to execute design research with the hopes of disseminating design research and practice knowledge through juried exhibitions at national and international academic conferences.

ONGOING SUPPORT PLAN

The RMPD department will provide ongoing support for maintenance and cost of support as part of the regular operating budget. Course fees will be increased to cover the costs of ink and fabric used in the appropriate courses. Additionally, fees will be assessed to students and faculty who wish to use the printer for personal projects or research endeavors.

DESCRIPTION OF PROJECT TEAM

Project Leader: Dr. Sherry Schofield, Carol Avery Professor and Chair in RMPD Dr. Jessica Ridgway, Visiting Assistant Professor RMPD Dr. Eundeok Kim, Professor RMPD RMPD Graduate Student

BUDGET AND EXPLANATION/JUSTIFICATION

In addition to the digital textile printer, there are several additional components needed for operation: (1) a textile steamer is needed in order to set the dye after the fabric has been printed, (2) the RIP software, (3) a computer to connect to the printer and run the software, (4) fabric and dye, and (5) a desk for the computer to sit on. The following budget contains an item name, description, and the amount requested to be able to purchase and have the items shipped and installed at our location.

Item Name Description Requested Amount Mutoh ValueJet 1628 Textile Printer, fabric handling system, bulk TD ink system, set of inks, RepMaster Software, Machine Installation, Machine Training – 1 Day, Software Training – 3 Days, Profile, Delivery $44,000.00 Textile Steamer Jacquard SteamJet Fabric Finisher I, delivery $23,000.00 Metal Core for Stainless Steel Steamer Core for fabric Steamer yardages, delivery $ 350.00 Ink 8 liters fiber reactive dyes @ $99/liter, delivery $ 892.00 Fabric 8 50-foot, 58” wide, ProCoat, rolls assorted fiber and fabric for training, initial tests, and projects @ an average of $350/roll, delivery $ 2,800.00 Computer Dedicated laptop to connect to printer $ 500.00 Total $71,542.00

Jacquard Inkjet Fabric Systems Fabric Steamers http://www.inkjetfabrics.com/products/steamers/

707-473-9080 SteamJet Fabric Finisher Vertical Fabric Steamer Steaming Paper

Home Jacquard SteamJet Fabric Finishers I & II

Fabrics The Jacquard SteamJet Fabric Finishers are the first low pressure, Inks short-run production steamers of their kind. Their patented design uses low pressure to provide highly efficient steam cycles & greatly Custom Coating reduced steam times. The SteamJet can process up to 70 yards of Steamers fabric per cycle with consistent results throughout the roll and from cycle to cycle. Used Equipment Fast Steam times Dealers All stainless construction Contact Safe and simple operation No water hookup required Links Consistent steaming results SteamJet I Special steaming core included $22,495 Easy loading with unique angled design SteamJet II All components UL and CSA and C.E. Approved $27,500 Electronic time and temperature controls Highest level of color bloom and wash fastness

Specifications SteamJet I SteamJet II

Width 20" or 50.8 cent. 26" or 66.04 cent.

Height 49" or 124.46 cent. 62" or 157.48 cent.

Length 75" or 190.5 cent. 99" or 251.46 cent.

Machine Weight 550 lbs. or 249.48 kilo. 725 lbs. or 328.85 kilo.

Max. Fabric Width 65" or 152.4 cent. 75" or 190.5 cent.

Max. Temperature 270°F or 132.22°C 270°F or 132.22°C

Max. Fabric Yardage 50 yards or 45.72 meters 75 yards or 68.58 meters

Electrical Requirements 208V-1PH 30 amp 208V-1PH 30 amp 220V-1PH 30 amp 220V-1PH 30 amp 380V-1PH 20 amp 380V-1PH 20 amp

Max. Fabric Roll Diameter 10" or 25.4 cent. 14" or 35.56 cent.

Steamer Cores Stainless Steel Steamer Cores for wrapping fabric on to steam. Our SteamJets come with one core included but many times it is advantageous to have more than one so you can be preparing the next batch while the current one is steaming.

65" for SteamJet I: $335.00 #SC00065

75" for SteamJet II: $345.00 #SC00075

1 of 1 12/11/2015 1:23 PM Jacquard Inkjet Fabric Systems http://www.inkjetfabrics.com/products/fabric/procoat.php

707-473-9080 Overview FabriSign ProCoat ProCoat Polyesters for Solvent Untreated Fabric

Home ProCoat Treated Fabrics

Fabrics ProCoat fabrics are designed to be used with reactive or acid textile dyes. The treatment maintains resolution of the print and aids in the fixation and color yield of the print.ProCoat fabrics are completely washable and dry-cleanable, Inks making them perfect for many applications including wearable and commercial textiles. ProCoat fabrics must be Custom Coating matched to the correct ink for the fabric type. Color is generally post-fixed by steaming or heating. Steamers Used Equipment | | | ProCoat Dealers Contact Cotton 17" x 35' $79.00 IF60055 Compatible Inks Links 24" x 50' $155.00 C001003 Jacquard Reactive Inks 36" x 50' $227.00 IF60054 Huntsman Novacron MI

44" x 50' $227.00 C001004

56" x 50' $397.00 IF60053 Options

6' Sample $35.00 C001S01 Paper Backing: All fabrics are available with or without paper backing. 8oz 17" x 35' $127.00 IF60065 Selvages may optionally be left on FabriSign & 24" x 50' $245.00 C002004 ProCoat fabrics. 36" x 50' $362.00 C002003

44" x 50' $362.00 IF60066 Downloadable Fabric List 58" x 50' $399.00 C002013 Available in printer friendly PDF or Excel 6' Sample $35.00 C002S01 spreadsheet:

Cotton 17" x 35' $81.00 IF61025 | Jacquard_Fabric_List.pdf

24" x 50' $155.00 C005001 Jacquard_Fabric_List.xls

36" x 50' $233.00 IF61026

44" x 50' $233.00 IF61027 Complete Swatch Set

58" x 50' $256.00 C005014 A complete swatch set of all of our fabrics is available - call to order. 6' Sample $35.00 C005S01 #IS00000 $14.00 Cotton 17" x 35' $108.00 IF61012

24" x 50' $210.00 IF61014

36" x 50' $309.00 IF61011

44" x 50' $309.00 IF61010

58" x 50' $340.00 IF61013

6' Sample $35.00 C006S01

Cotton Sheeting 17" x 35' $81.00 IF60017

24" x 50' $155.00 IF60013

36" x 50' $233.00 IF60012

44" x 50' $233.00 IF60014

56" x 50' $256.00 IF60016

6' Sample $35.00 C007S01

High Quality Cotton Single Knit 17" x 35' $112.00 C008P17 (140gm/sq meter)

24" x 50' $220.00 C008P24

36" x 50' $321.00 C008P36

44" x 50' $321.00 C008P42

52" x 50' $354.00 C008P52

6' Sample $35.00 C008P01

Spun Viscose 17" x 35' $92.00 IF60046

1 of 5 12/11/2015 1:23 PM Jacquard Inkjet Fabric Systems http://www.inkjetfabrics.com/products/fabric/procoat.php

Top | Cotton | Silk | Linen | Nylon ProCoat

Habotai 5mm 17" x 35' $79.00 IF00006 Compatible Inks

24" x 50' $174.00 IF00001 Jacquard Acid Inks 36" x 50' $235.00 IF00002 Jacquard Reactive Inks Huntsman Lanaset SIHS 42" x 50' $235.00 IF00004

52" x 50' $295.00 IF00005

6' Sample $35.00 S001S01 Options

Habotai 8mm 17" x 35' $81.00 IF00012 Paper Backing: All fabrics are available with or without paper backing. 24" x 50' $172.00 IF00009 Selvages may optionally be left on FabriSign & 36" x 50' $242.00 IF00008 ProCoat fabrics.

42" x 50' $242.00 IF00010

52" x 50' $309.00 IF00011 Downloadable Fabric List 6' Sample $35.00 S002S01 Available in printer friendly PDF or Excel Habotai 10mm 17" x 35' $94.00 IF00018 spreadsheet:

24" x 50' $194.00 IF00015 | Jacquard_Fabric_List.pdf Jacquard_Fabric_List.xls 36" x 50' $267.00 IF00014

42" x 50' $267.00 IF00016

52" x 50' $330.00 S027P52 Complete Swatch Set

6' Sample $35.00 S027S01 A complete swatch set of all of our fabrics is available - call to order. Habotai 12mm 17" x 35' $104.00 IF00023 #IS00000 $14.00 36" x 50' $299.00 IF00020

42" x 50' $299.00 IF00022

6' Sample $35.00 S003S01

Habotai 16mm 17" x 35' $110.00 IF00030

36" x 50' $307.00 IF00026

42" x 50' $307.00 IF00028

6' Sample $35.00 S028S01

Crepe de Chine 12mm 17" x 35' $99.00 IF05005

36" x 50' $287.00 IF05002

42" x 50' $287.00 IF05004

50" x 50' $340.00 IF05003

6' Sample $35.00 S004S01

Crepe de Chine 16mm 17" x 35' $110.00 IF05016

36" x 50' $299.00 IF05012

42" x 50' $299.00 IF05014

52" x 50' $385.00 IF05015

6' Sample $35.00 S006S01

Crepe de Chine 18mm 17" x 35' $127.00 IF05019

36" x 50' $399.00 IF05018

42" x 50' $405.00 IF05020

6' Sample $35.00 S007S01

Crepe de Chine 23mm 17" x 35' $132.00 IF05024

36" x 50' $399.00 IF05023

41" x 50' $415.00 IF05025

6' Sample $35.00 S008S01

Charmeuse 12.5mm 17" x 35' $114.00 IF10010

2 of 5 12/11/2015 1:23 PM Jacquard Inkjet Fabric Systems http://www.inkjetfabrics.com/products/fabric/procoat.php

36" x 50' $335.00 IF10007

42" x 50' $335.00 IF10009

52" x 50' $395.00 IF10008

6' Sample $35.00 S009S01

Charmeuse 19.5mm 17" x 35' $119.00 IF10015

24" x 50' $266.00 IF10013

36" x 50' $395.00 IF10012

41" x 50' $395.00 IF10014

50" x 50' $455.00 IF10016

6' Sample $35.00 S010S01

Charmeuse 23mm 17" x 35' $147.00 IF10023

36" x 50' $430.00 IF10022

42" x 50' $430.00 IF10024

6' Sample $35.00 S011S01

Charmeuse Lycra 22mm 17" x 35' $148.00 IF10020

36" x 50' $424.00 IF10017

38" x 50' $424.00 S012003

6' Sample $35.00 S012S01

Silk 12mm 17" x 35' $123.00 IF15005

36" x 50' $335.00 IF15002

42" x 50' $335.00 IF15004

6' Sample $35.00 S029S01

Silk Satin Twill 14mm 17" x 35' $122.00 IF15013

24" x 50' $230.00 IF15011

36" x 50' $357.00 IF15012

42" x 50' $357.00 IF15014

52" x 50' $392.00 IF15015

6' Sample $35.00 S014S01

Chiffon 8mm 17" x 35' $125.00 IF20010

36" x 50' $358.00 IF20007

40" x 50' $358.00 S015003

6' Sample $35.00 S015S01

Chinese Crinkled 5.5mm 17" x 35' $179.00 S045P17

35-40" x 50' $358.00 S045P36

6' Sample $35.00 S045P02

Organza 8mm 17" x 35' $96.00 IF20036

24" x 50' $206.00 IF20034

36" x 50' $284.00 IF20033

40" x 50' $284.00 IF20035

52" x 50' $350.00 IF20037

6' Sample $35.00 S016S01

Crepe 10mm 17" x 35' $110.00 IF20016

24" x 50' $224.00 IF20013

36" x 50' $324.00 IF20012

42" x 50' $324.00 IF20014

50" x 50' $382.00 IF20015

6' Sample $35.00 S025S01

Silk 3.5mm 17" x 35' $145.00 S044P17

3 of 5 12/11/2015 1:23 PM Jacquard Inkjet Fabric Systems http://www.inkjetfabrics.com/products/fabric/procoat.php

36" x 50' $289.00 S044P23

6' Sample $35.00 S044P01

Indian Dupion - White 17" x 35' $173.00 IF50039

36" x 50' $499.00 IF50036

42" x 50' $499.00 IF50038

6' Sample $35.00 S020S01

Chinese Dupion 19mm 17" x 35' $124.00 IF50028

36" x 50' $366.00 S022002

42" x 50' $366.00 IF50027

6' Sample $35.00 S022S01

Bleached Fuji 10lb 17" x 35' $136.00 IF50010

36" x 50' $350.00 S024002

40" x 50' $350.00 S024004

6' Sample $35.00 S024S01

Top | Cotton | Silk | Linen | Nylon ProCoat

100% Belgian Linen, 3.5oz. Natural 17" x 35' $164.00 L001P17 Compatible Inks Color Jacquard Reactive Inks 24" x 50' $220.00 L001P24 Huntsman Novacron MI 36" x 50' $276.00 L001P36

44" x 50' $306.00 L001P42 Notes 52" x 50' $356.00 L001P56 Unlike most fabrics light weight linens cost more 6' Sample $35.00 L001P01 than heavier weight linens. 100% Belgian Linen, 5.5oz. Natural 17" x 35' $148.00 L002P17 Color Options 24" x 50' $204.00 L002P24 Paper Backing: All fabrics are available with or 36" x 50' $260.00 L002P36 without paper backing. 44" x 50' $290.00 L002P42 Selvages may optionally be left on FabriSign & 52" x 50' $340.00 L002P56 ProCoat fabrics.

6' Sample $35.00 L002P01

Downloadable Fabric List

Available in printer friendly PDF or Excel spreadsheet:

| Jacquard_Fabric_List.pdf Jacquard_Fabric_List.xls

Complete Swatch Set

A complete swatch set of all of our fabrics is available - call to order.

#IS00000 $14.00

Top | Cotton | Silk | Linen | Nylon ProCoat Nylon

Nylon Lycra 80/20 5.4oz 17" x 35' $178.00 IF70009 Compatible Inks

24" x 50' $345.00 IF70003 Jacquard Acid Inks 36" x 50' $509.00 IF70008

4 of 5 12/11/2015 1:23 PM Jacquard Inkjet Fabric Systems http://www.inkjetfabrics.com/products/fabric/procoat.php

44" x 50' $509.00 IF70005 Huntsman Lanaset SIHS

54" x 50' $560.00 IF70004

6' Sample $35.00 N001S01 Options

Nylon Lycra 83/17 7oz 17" x 35' $212.00 IF70012 Paper Backing: All fabrics are available with or without paper backing. 24" x 50' $409.00 IF70013 Selvages may optionally be left on FabriSign & 36" x 50' $606.00 IF70011 ProCoat fabrics. 44" x 50' $606.00 N002003

54" x 50' $712.00 IF70010 Downloadable Fabric List 6' Sample $35.00 N002S01 Available in printer friendly PDF or Excel Nylon Flag 200 Denier made with 17" x 35' $80.00 N009P17 spreadsheet: Dupont SolarMax® | Jacquard_Fabric_List.pdf 24" x 50' $118.00 N009P24 Jacquard_Fabric_List.xls 36" x 50' $155.00 N009P36

44" x 50' $180.00 N009P42 Complete Swatch Set 54" x 50' $200.00 N009P54 A complete swatch set of all of our fabrics is available 60" x 50' $225.00 N009P60 - call to order.

6' Sample $35.00 N009P01 #IS00000 $14.00

Soft Brushed Nylon Woven 17" x 35' $80.00 N010P17

24" x 50' $118.00 N010P24

36" x 50' $155.00 N010P36

42" x 50' $180.00 N010P45

6' Sample $35.00 N010S01

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