इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान का अधकार, जी का अधकार” “परा को छोड न 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 2364 (1987): Glossary of textile terms - Woven fabrics [TXD 1: Physical Methods of Tests] “ान $ एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge” “ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS : 2364 - 1987 Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TEXTILE TERMS- WOVEN FABRICS ( Second Revision ) ULX 001-4 : 677.074 Q C’ojpright 1988 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002 Gr 7 Alay 1988 IS : 2364 - 1987 Indian Standard GLOSSARYOFTEXTILETERMS- WOVENFABRICS (Second Revision ) 0. FOREWORD 0.1 This Indian Standard ( Revised ) was adopted based on the prevalent practices and usage in the by the Bureau of Indian Standards on 10 Novem- Indian textile industry and trade, and are of tech- ber 1987, after the draft finalized by the Physical nical nature and need not necessarily tally with Methods of Test Sectional Committee had been those coined by excise or customs departments for approved by the Textile Division Council. the purpose of levying taxes or excise duties. In the preparation of this standard, due weightage 0.2 This standard was first published in 1963 and has also been given to the need for international subsequently revised in 1979 with a view to elimi- coordination among the standards prevalent in nating ambiguity or confusion arising from various difIerent countries of the world. Assistance has interpretations of terms relating to different types also been derived from a number of publications of fabrics made from natural fibres. The standard including the following: has now been revised to include some more terms and also to carry out the modifications necessary The ‘Mercury’ Dictionary of Textile Terms. to make the existing definitions more explicit and Manchester Textile Mercury Limited, up-to-date. The definitions pertaining to the use of Manchester, UK. man-made fibres as blends with natural fibres Textile Terms and’ Definitions. ed. 7. 1975. have also been kept in view while updating the Textile Institute, Manchester, UK. standards. However, the definitions pertaining to Callaway Textile Dictionary. Callaway Mills, the jute have been excluded in view of publication Georgia, USA. of IS : 3476-1986* exclusively for jute fabrics. 0.4 For ease of reference, the definitions of this 0.3 The definitions given in this standard are standard have been arranged in alphabetical *Glossary of terms pertaining to jute (first reuision). order. 1. SCOPE cross borders, generally worn over the shoulders as part of the traditional dress in South India. 1.1 This standard prescribes the definitions of textile terms relating to woven fabrics. Angocha - An Indian term for a cotton hand- loom fabric used as a towel. A Angola - Denotes yarn as well as fabric: Adhi -An Indian term for light weight fabric in a) Angola Yarn - Yarn made from wool and plain weave. It is used as shirting in tropical cotton, or wool and man-made fibres, blen- countries, and also as the ground fabric for Chikan, ded together. Kamdani, etc ( see also Chikan and Kamdani ). b) Angola Fabric - A plain or twill weave Aeolian - A warp rib dress material made of fabric made from angola yarn warp and cotton warp and silk, man-made fibre or worsted angola yarn weft. weft. The cloth is light in weight, has a glossy finish, and is piece dyed. Angora Alpaca Fabric - A fabric made from alpaca 4 Angora Fibre - The hair of Angora rabbit fibres. ( genus: Lepus caniculus ). Alwan - An Indian term denoting fabric in NOTE- The hair of Angora goat is referred to as plain weave made from pushmina or merino wool mohair. or other fibres and used as a shawl. b) Angora Tarn -An extremely soft yarn made Angavastram - A superfine fabric, mildly from the hair of Angora rabbit. It may scoured or bleached, approximately 2 m long and contain a small proportion of other fibres to 1 m wide, with colour-woven or jari borders and facilitate Spinning. I -_ E-. -zz= c) Angora Fabric - A fabric woven from 32 ends/in ( 80 ends/dm ) 2-18s ( 295 to 32 tex ) Angora yarn. warp- with 280-400 picks/in ( 700 to 1 OOO/dm ) of 20~16s weft ( 30-37 tex ) piece-dyed, and having NOTE - The use of this term to refer to union a short, soft ‘nap’ on the back when finished. It is fabrics containing mohair weft is not recommended. a heavier fabric than imperial sateen. Astrakhan Fabric, Woven - A curled-pile Bedford Cord - A cloth showing rounded cords fabric made to imitate the fleece of a still-born or in the warp direction with pronounced sunken very young karakul lamb. The effect is obtained by lines between, produced by the nature of the special manufacturing process or by a pre-treat- weave. The weave on the face of the cords is ment of the pile yarn, which is set while held in usually plain but other weaves may be used. There the form of a helix. are weft floats on the width of the cords on the back. Wadding ends may be used to accentuate B the prominence of the cords. Bed Ticking - A strong, closely woven, twilled A light-weight flannel used for Baby Flannel - cotton material which may be yarn dyed or prin- children’s garments. ted, usually in stripes. It is used for beds, mattre- Back Grey - Absorbent undyed cloth used to sses and pillows. support and carry fabric being printed, and also Belting ( Industrial and Mechanical ) - A to protect the blanket from contamination by sur- generic term covering all forms of belts, and rolls plus print paste. of material from which belts are made up,that are Bafta - An Indian term for a fabric made wirh designed for the transmission of power or for the silk warp and cotton weft, used as dress material. purpose of conveying or elevating. Baize - A plain woven, heavily milled, woollen- Bangaline- A cloth with a more or less striking spun, fine merino wool fabric with raised pile sur- warp-rib appearance running across the fabric, face, piece dyed in bright colours, usually red or produced from cotton or worsted yarns, silk or green, ,and used for covering tables, screens, lining other continuous-filament yarns, or in part from for instrument boxes and the like. any of the materials named, a typical example being silk warp and worsted weft. The warp-rib or Balanced Cloth - A fabric having the same corded effect may be produced by employing any count of yarn in warp and weft and the same of the following methods: (a) suitable thickness number of ends and picks per unit length. and setting of warp and weft threads, (b) suitable Bandage Cloth - See Gauze. warp-rib weaves, and(c) a combination of (a) and (b). Banner Cloth - A plain weave fabric of cotton, wool or silk used for the fabrication of flags, Billiard Cloth - A plain woven, heavily milled banners and buntings. woollen cloth with closely cropped fibrous finish, made from fine merino wool and usually dyed in Barathea - A heavy worsted fabric of pebbeled green colour. appearance in rib or twilled hapsack weave. It may be made from merino wool or its blendswith Binding - A narrow fabric designed to protect, man-made fibres and given a clear finish for use support and give a finish to carpets, garments, as dress material. blankets, books, shoes and other articles. Barras Hessen - A coarse linen fabric similar NOTE - Certain kinds of tapes, webbings, ribbons to sack cloth; originally produced in Holland. and braids are also used as bindings. Batik - A plain woven fabric printed by Batik Birdseye - A fabric having a pattern of very system. small and uniform spots, the result of the combina- tion of weave and colour. NOTE - The method of dyeing in which wax is applied to the cloth and then removed at places where Blanket - A heavy compact fabric of plain or the dyeing is to be done. twill weave made from wool, cotton, rayon, man- Batiste - A soft, fine, plain-woven fabric, origi- made fibres or their blends and given a soft nappy nally of flax. It may now be made in a variety of finish. Blankets made from wool are usually felted other fibres. by heavy milling. Their size varies considerably but usually it is 1.5 to 2 m in width and 2 to 25 m Beaver Cloth - A heavy, firm texture cloth, in length. The weight of the blanket may vary made from woollen yarns, which is milled, raised from 1 to 3 kg. and cut close on the face so as to simulate natural beaver skin. Blanket Cloth - A heavy weight overcoating fabric with a soft, raised finish.