MISCE LLA NE OU S WORKS

O T BI S MO . A S LLE TT, M . D

WITH

M E M O I R S

H IS LIFE A N D W R ITINGS,

R OBE R T AN DE R SON , M . D .

TH E SIXTH EDITION, IN SIX VOLUMES.

ME V VOLU .

CON TAINING

T E D TURE S OF SIR A U CE GRE A VES H A VEN L N LO T ,

AN D

TRAVELS TH R OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

E DINBURGH

P RIN TE D F OR TIR L ING L D HIL L C A N D FAIRE AI R N E P TE R O . S S A , E 19 ,

A A N DE R O N E D IN B GH ' J C U THI LL L A CK I N GTO N ! S , U R ; w . O I R ID O E , . , ,

H A R D ING H U GH E MA V O R J O N B ALDWIN C R A DO CK J O Y , S , , a; E S , , . S .

R . C H O L E Y G . C O W I . N D H . R I D G. M AC K I E A U E R w . E , S , E a; c o , R . S S , ,

A N D T. J . A LL MA N L O N DO N W I L O N O N Y O RK R . MI LL I KE N 4 , ; S Q S S, ; A N D J C U MMING D L . , UB I N .

CO NTE NTS

OF THE FIFTH VOLUME.

E DV NTUR S OF SIR L UNC LOT GR V TH A E E A E EA E S.

. hich certain ersona e s of this de i htful hi stor are in C H AP I . In w p g l g y troduced ’ to th e reader s

I In which th e hero of thes e adventures ma es his rs a earance on th e s I . k fi t pp tage of action

. Which th e reader on r usa ma Wish w ere ch a er the as . III , pe l , y pt l t

IV . In which it a ea rs h at the ni h wh en hear il set in for s ee in was pp t k g t, t y l p g , not eas ily dis turbed

V In which thi s reca it u ation draw s to a c ose . p l l

V I In which th e reader wi erceive that in some case s madn is . ll p ess

In whi h th h i im r an e VII . c e knig t resumes h s po t c 6 4 ’ Whi h is Withi hair ead h f r vi n hi h V I II . c n a s br t o p o g g ly 3 hi IX. W ch may serve to shew that true patriotis m is of no party Whi sh u X . ch eweth that he who plays at bowls wi ll sometimes meet with r bbers 9 0 X I Des ri i . c pt on of a modern magistrate hi h n X I I . W c sh ews th ere are more w ays to kill a dog than ha ging

XIII In whi h our ni h is tan a iz ed wi h a ransien im se of felici . 1 1 9 . c k g t t l t t t gl p ty

hich h w ~ XI V. W s e s ,

That man wa s si a cannot al y p, h i W en th e cup is at his l p . .

XV . Exhibi i n an interview whi ch it is to be ho ed wi interes th e curi t g , , p , ll t osity of th e reader

V . Which it is to be ho ed the reader wil fi nd an a reeab e medle of X I , p , l g l y

mir h and madness sense and t , Con ainin h v n w and sur risin XVII . t g adventures of c i alry equally e p g

In whi h h f ine with renovated ustre . XVI I I . c t e rays o chi valry sh l

Con e rifli n and res cent l 78 X I X. taining th e achievements of the knights of th g c

XX. In which our h ero descends into the mans ions of the damned . 1 87

C n f XXI . o ta ining furth er anecdotes relating to th e childr en o In h t e i ns of XXII . whic Captain Crowe is sublimed i nto he r g o iv C ONTE NT S .

C H I‘ I I I In which th e c ouds tha cover th e catas ro he be in to dis A . XX . l t t p g

I Th e not th at uz z es h um an w isdom the hand of ortune sometim XX V . k p l , F es will un tIe familiar a s h er g arter "

C P R T H E L A ST. Which it is to be ho ed wil b e on more accoun s HA T E , p , l , t

n one a re eab e to th e reader th a , g l

T UGH F ND T f a 4 5 8 TRAVE LS H RO RANC E A I ALY , rom p ge 2 7 to 7 . A DVE NTU RE S

SIR LAU NCELOT GREAVES.

CH A P TE R I .

‘ In which cer ta in p er s onag es of this delig hft ul his tory a r e ’ h r a der s a c ua i nta n e i n troduced to t e e q c .

“ Ir on the n he n f was great ort r road rom York to London , the of of about beginning the month October , and the hour f f v io o eight in the evening , that our travellers were , by a of for lent shower rain , driven shelter into a little public

‘ e on the of e n hous side the high way , distinguish d by a sig w hich was s aid to exhibit the figure of a black lion . The in for kitchen , which they assembled , was the only room m entertain ent in the house , paved with red bricks , remark a f or f bly clean , urnished with three our Windsor chairs , of adorned with shining plates pewter, and copper sauce r ans n d of be p icely scoured , that even azzled the eyes the

‘ holder ; while a cheerful fire of sea - coal blazed in the chim ne . of on y Three the travellers, who arrived horseback , having seen their cattle properly accommodated in the stable, r wea ag eed to pass the time, until the ther should clear up , o of a a e ver a bowl rumbo , which was ccordingly prep r d ; f f but the ourth , re using to join their company , took his sta t of f r ion at the Opposite side the chimney , and called o a

of h f a ar . pint twopenny , wit which he indulged himsel p t A t on f a little distance , his le t hand, there was another consistin f l g roup , g c the land ady , a decent widow, her two

Vol. V. A 0 THE A DV E N TU R E S or

da of th a ughters , the elder whom seemed to be about e ge of

‘ f a u lad fi teen , and co ntry , who served both as waiter and

ostler .

of The social triumvirate was composed Mr Fillet, a

r in s f a country practitione urgery and midwi ery , C ptain w Crowe, and his nephe Mr Thomas Clarke , an attorney . was of e a of Fillet a man some duc tion , and a great deal

experience, shrewd , sly , and sensible . Captain Crowe had commanded a merch ant ship in the Medi te rrane an trade for

a a of f m ny ye rs , and saved some money by dint rugality and

af . f tr fic He was an excellent seaman , brave, active, riendly and in his way , scrupulously honest ; but as little acquainted a with the w orld as a sucking child ; whimsical , imp tient, a nd so impetuous, that he could not help breaking in upon t t the conversa ion , whatever it might be, wi h repeated inter r u tion s f him im p , that seemed to burst rom by involuntary f pulse . When he himsel attempted to speak , he never a of u finished his period , but m de such a number abr pt tran s ition s t , that his discourse seemed to be an unconnec ed series of of n unfinished sentences , the meaning which it was ot

e asy to decipher . Tom fe His nephew , Clarke, was a young llow , whose goodness of heart even the exercise of his profession had f not been able to corrupt . Be ore strangers he never owned

f had no himsel an attorney without blushing, though he r eason to blush for his ow n practice ; for he constantly r e fused to engage in the cause of any client whose ch aracter

c in. was equivo al, and was never known to act with such

dus tr for w or y as when concerned the wido and orphan , any i n r ma au er is other object that sued f o p p . Indeed he was so r f ff n eplete with human kindness , that as o ten as an a ecti g s or u overflowed tory circ mstance was told in his hearing, it

at . of his eyes Being a warm complexion , he was very sus

ce tible of . p passion , and somewhat libertine in his amours f on u In other respects , he piqued himsel nderstanding the

of . practice the courts , and in private company he took plea ' a diii erent or s ure in l ying down the law ; but he was an in orat , ture and tediously circumstantial in his explanations . His sta SIR U G V 8 LA N C ELOT REA E S . w o as rather diminutive ; but , upon the whole , he had s me f to o f . title the character a pretty , dapper, little ellow The solitary guest had something very forbidding in his

i a a f . spect , wh ch was contr cted by an habitual rown His e yes were small and red, and so deep set in the sockets , that each appeared like the unextin guished snuff of a farthing

of a . candle , gleaming throug h the horn a dark l nthorn His n s i if n of m l i h ad o tr ls were elevated in scorn , as his se se s e l ng been perpetually offende d by some unsavoury odour ; and he looked a s if he want ed to shrink within himself from the

of . impertinence society He wore a black periwig, as straight a s of e the pinions a raven , and this was cov red with an hat ed a nd fa handker flapp , stened to his head by a speckled

‘ chief tied under his chin . He was wrapped in a great coat o f f c e brown reeze , under whi h he seem d to conceal a small c n bundle . His name was Ferret , and his chara ter disti

uish ed e . g by thre peculiarities He was never seen to smile, he was never heard to speak in praise of any person what s e w oev r, and he was never kno n to give a direct answer to h on i any question t at was asked but seemed, all occas ons, to be e of actuat d by the most perverse spirit contradiction .

Captain Crowe, having remarked that it was squally wea t ho w far her, asked it was to the next market town ; and

a understanding that the distance was not less th n six miles ,

‘ a to for the s id he had a good mind to come an anchor night, if so be as he could have a tolerable bi r th in this here har bour . Mr Fillet , perceiving by his style that he was a sea f i a ar ng gentleman , observed that their l ndlady was not used to lodge such cornpany ; and expressed some surprise that and he, who had no doubt endured so many storms hard s at of or hips sea, should think much travelling five six miles ’

o a n . For ah rseb ck by moo light my part , said he, I ride

in all weathers , and at all hours, without minding cold , wet ,

or s - wind, darkness . My constitution is so ca e hardened , h tha t I believe I could live all the year at Spitzbergen . Wit

s e to a f of re p ct this ro d , I know every oot it so exactly , that ’ I ll n r f f e gage to t avel orty miles upon it blind old , without making one false step ; and if you have faith enough to put 4 THE A DV E NT URE S OF

y r s f ou selves under my auspices , I will conduct you a e to an

a ou a eleg nt inn , where y will meet with the best ccomoda ’ ’ a d tion . Th nk you brother, replie the captain , we are much be holden to you for your courteous Offer ; but h ow somever you must not think I mind foul weather more than

a f an d my neighbours . I h ve worked hard alo t alow in many ’ a — a a t ught gale but this here is the case , d ye see ; we h ve ’ run down a lon g day s reckoning ; our beasts h ave h ad a for own hard spell ; and as my hap , brother , I doubt my

- e Of bottom planks have lost som their sheathing, being as ' ’ how I an t used to that kind of scrubbing .

had a a of in The doctor, who pr ctised board a man war

w a s f a ca his youth , and per ectly well cquainted with the p ' a h a if a t in s dialect, assured him , t t , his bottom was d maged ,

l n ew a al he wou d p y it with an excellent salve, which he

a a a a o w ys c rried bout him , to guard ag inst such accidents n

a : the ro d but Tom Clarke , who seemed to have cast the ‘ of ff a eyes a ection upon the l ndlady s eldest daughter , Dolly , objected to their proceeding farther without rest and refresh

had f n ment , as they already travelled fi ty miles since mor ing ; an d he w as sure his uncle must be fatigu ed both in and f f a exer mind body , rom vexation , as well as rom h rd

cise , to which he had not been accustomed . Fillet then d had esisted , saying, he was sorry to find the captain any cause of vexation ; but he hoped it w as not an incurable a of evil . This expression was accomp nied with a look cu

riosit a a of an y, which Mr Cl rke was gl d occasion to gra tif for commu y ; , as we have hinted above , h e was a very n icativ e ff now la gentleman , and the a air which y upon his a stom ch interested him nearly . ’ ’ I ll ou assure y , sir, said he, this here gentleman , Cap ’ own tain Crowe , who is my mother s brother, has been l of o cruel y used by some his relations . He bears as go d a

a a of on ch racter as any c ptain a ship the Royal exchange,

h as W - and undergone a variety of hardships at sea . hat ’ of a d ye think , now , his bursting all his sinews, and m king out of ul off his eyes start his head, in p ling his ship a rock , ’— whereby he saved to his owners Here he was interr upted SI R U E 5 LA N C LOT GRE AV E S .

th e Tom by captain who exclaimed , belay , , belay ’ ’

out a w a . pr ythee don t veer such a de l of ja . Cl p a stopper on f u — a of thy cable , and bring thysel p, my lad what deal ff m n a stu thou hast pu ped up concerni g bursting, and st rt — ing, and pulling ships : Laud have mercy upon us Look — — ye here, brother look ye here mind these poor crippled

on a joints ; two fingers the st rboard, and three on the lar ’

of a . board hand ; crooked , d ye see , like the knees a bil nder ’ —I ll ou a— tell y what , brother , you seem to be ship deep — — — laden rich cargo current setting into the bay hard gale — — — lee shore all hands in the boat tow round the hea d- la nd — — self pulling for dear blood against the whole crew Snap — fi n er - - go the g braces crack went the eye blocks . Bounce — — - flash - f d l day light star light down I oundered , ark as hel

an d a W . went my ears , my he d spun like a hirligig

’ — n f —I m a a That don t sig i y Yorkshire boy , as the s ying

- f a of is all my li e at sea, brother , by re son an old grand a of old — me mother and maiden unt , a couple stinking kept — these forty years out of my grandfather s estate Hearing r as how they had taken their departure, came ashore , hi ed

an all a horses , and clapped my canv s , steering to the north " to of m — f a ward , take possession y But it don t signi y t lking — — these two old piratical had held a palaver with a lawyer ’ -an Tom a —an d attorney , , d ye mind me , an ttorney by

u of — his assistance hove me o t my inheritance that is all , — ’ — - brother hove me out of five hundred pounds a year that s — — ’ all what signifi es but such w in dfals we don t every day u — — pick p along shore Fill about, brother yes, by the

! a s Lord those two smuggling harrid ns , with the a sistance of —an — out of an attorney attorney , Tom hove me five ’ ’ - u a . a a h ndred year Yes , indeed , sir, dded Mr Cl rke ,

two old l f those malicious women docked the intai , and le t ’ the estate to an alien . Here Mr Ferret thought proper to intermingle in the l n a is h ! d of co versation with p what , ost talk docking ' 2 th e intail ? Do s t not kno w that by the statute Westm . . 1 3 f d . of Ed the will and intention the donor must be ulfille , t l n f or be and the tenant in ail sha l not alie a ter issue had , 6 THE A DVE N T UR E S OF

” f e ou ore Give me leave, sir , replied Tom , I presum y w h ar e a la . ou t e a pr ctitioner in the Now y know, that , in a of a r e ma i nder a d c se contingent , the int il may be destroye ff or by levying a fine, and su ering a recovery ; otherwise de

a f ha stroying the particul r estate , be ore the contingency p

. If a zes an fe pens f fi , who possess estate only during the li of r ema i n der s a son , where divers are limited over, make a

’ ‘ eo men t fe e e ment f r e f j in to him , by the f qfi all the uture

ma e ema inder ' inder s ar . r destroyed Indeed , a person in may

r of t if f . have a w it in rusion , any do intrude a ter the death of a tenant for life ; and the writ ea: g ra m guer ela lies to ' e xecute a devise in r ema in der after the death of a tenan t in ’ ’ t . of e ail without issue Spoke like a true disciple G ber , ”

c . O ries Ferret N , sir , replied Mr Clarke , Counsellor — C aper is in the conveyancing wa y I was clerk to Serjean t ’ ’ d . A ou for f Croaker y, now y may set up yoursel , resume th e for ou c n of other, y a prate as unintelligibly as the best ’ them . ” i To f . Perhaps , sa d m, I do not make mysel understood If how so be as that is the case, let us change the position , and suppose that this here case is a ta il af ter a p os s ibility of i s u ex tin If a il f s e ct. a tenant in t a ter a possibility make a e en t of for for f q his land, he in reversion may enter the f l eiture . Then we must make a distinction betwe en g en er a ta il s ecial a il b d i n and p t . It is the word o y that makes the ta il - b d ta il a there must be a o y in the , devised to heirs m le or f fee - t emale , otherwise it is a simple , because it is not limi of a b d ed wh t o y . Thus a corporation cannot be seized in — tail. For example, here is a young woman What is your ? ’ ' a w a name , my dear Dolly , answered the d ughter , ith ' ' — — cour t s . o I tail 1 y Here s D lly seize Dolly in Dolly , ’ ’ ’ s ou in ta il eize y . Sha t then , cried Dolly , pouting . I ’ of fe e—I on a il am seized land in settle Dolly in t .

Dolly, who did not comprehend the nature of the illus tration a , understood him in a liter l sense, and in a whimper ’ u tuoad ing tone, exclaimed, Sha t then , I tell thee, c rsed

Tom his he , however, was so transported with subject, that ’ t no n e of h s ook otic poor Dolly s mistake, but proceeded in i SIR L U N C E L R A OT G E AVE S . 7 h n ff r of ta ils r em i nde rs arangue upo the di e ent kinds , , and s ei si ns r i a , when he was inter upted by a no se th t alarmed the whole company . The rain had been succeeded by a storm of wind , that howled around the house with the most savage impetuosity ; and the heavens wer e overcast in such a man ner n ot one e e i w , that star app ar d , so that all w thout as da rk ness and uproar . This aggravated the horror of divers loud s of creams, which even the noise the blast could not exclude fr om the ear s of our astonished travellers . Captain Crowe ’ ca le out ! Tom l s at l d , avast , avast C arke silent , staring

l his l . n lf wi dly , with mouth sti l open The surgeo himse ’ s eemed startled ; - and Ferret s counten an ce betrayed eviden t m of f . arks con usion The ostler moved nearer the chimney , and the of u h two good woman the ho se, wit her daughters, t crept closer to he company . ’ f e u A ter some paus , the captain , starting p, these , said ‘ be n of . o he , sig als distress S me poor souls in danger of f — e if v oundering Let us b ar up ahead, and see we can gi e ’ f ’ m an s . n a or hr s the y a sistance The la dl dy begged him , C ist s a e n ot n of out for k , to thi k going it was a spirit that would a i f a lead him stray nto ens and rivers , and certainly do him i mischief. Crowe seemed to be staggered by th s remon h f strance , which his nep ew rein orced , observing, that it

of h might be a stratagem rogues to decoy t em into the fields , ha of t t they might rob them under the cloud night . Thus e b to xhorted, e resumed his seat and Mr Ferret began make ve ry s evere str ictures upon the folly and fear of those e of who b lieved and trembled at the visitation spirits , ghosts, i h e a and gobl ns . He said , would eng ge with twelve penny worth of phosphorus to frighten a whole parish out of their

of . s enses . Then he expatiated on the pusillanimity the na i r tion in general ; r diculed the militia, censured the gove n . e n of bands ment, and dropp d some hi ts about a change , h whic the captain could not, and the doctor would not, comprehend . Tom f f m of Clarke, rom the reedo his discourse, concluded was a to he a ministerial spy , and communic ted his opinion un e to his cl in a whisper, while this misanthrope continued 3 TH E ADVENT URE S OF

f f l to m pour orth his invectives with a luency pecu iar hi self. n ot f m The truth is , Mr Ferret had been a party writer, ro

h ad f rod of principle , but employment , and elt the power ; of f in order to avoid a second exertion which , he now ound it convenient to skulk about in the country ; for he had t e

cei ved of a t f a of intimation a warr n rom the secret ry state, ot who wanted to be better acquainted with his person . N

a h of . withst nding the ticklis nature his situation , it was be come so habitual to him to think and speak in a certain m befor e ' s tran ers anner, that, even g , whose principles and not r connections he could possibly know, he hardly eve i e or opened his mouth , without utter ng som direct implied

sarcasm against the government . He had already proceeded a considerable way in demon

tratin r s g that the nation was bank upt and beggared , and that those who stood at the helm were steering full into the

of gulf inevitable destruction , when his lecture was sudden v h ly sus pended by a iolent knocking at the door , whic

a . threatened the whole house with immediate demolition . C p nu tain Crowe , believing they should be instantly boarded , f f a o . s heathed his h nger, and stood in a posture de ence

a f Mr Fillet rmed himsel with the poker, which happened be fi relock t to red hot ; the ostler pulled down a rusty , tha

n f flitch of . Tom ~ hu g by the roo , over a bacon Clarke per

eivin a l t c g the l nd ady and her children dis racted with terror, out of conducted them , mere compassion , below stairs into

and for r w the cellar ; as Mr Fer et , he prudently withdre

into an adj oining pantry . But as a person age of great importance in this entertain ing history was forced to remain some time at the door be

hé n a fore could gai admittance , so must the re der wait with

for a patience the next chapter, in which he will see the c use

of this disturbance explained much to his comfort and edi.

fi cation. S I R LA U C L O R ‘ N E T G E AVE S. 9

H A C P TE R I I .

In which the her o of thes e a dventur es ma kes his fir s t appea r : “ a n ce on the s ta e a cti n g q o .

TH E outward door of the Black Lion had already sustain ed two f fle w an dread ul shocks ; but at the third it open , d in stalked an appa rition that smote the hearts of our traveL. l f of a m e rs with ear and trepidation . It was the figure an

e - a- ee on arm d cap p , bearing his shoulders a bundle drop

n - h f d pi g with water , whic a terwards appeared to be the bo y of man to d a that seemed have been drowne , and fished up f f n rom the bottom o the neighbouri g river.

a a f on f H ving deposited his burden c re ully the loor, he addressed himself to the company in these words Be not d o h surprise , go d people , at this unusual appearance, whic I shall take an opportunity to explain and forgive the rude

a a in and boisterous m nner in which I h ve demanded , and

f : of was deed orced , admittance the violence my intrusion ’ ff of S u e the e ect necessity . In crossing the river , my q ir

his e a h and hors were swept aw y by the stream ; and , wit

ffi b a to some di culty , I have een ble drag him ashore , though

f a him : for e I am a raid my assist nce reached too late , sinc i ’ r a of f . I b ought him to l nd , he has given no signs l e

o f m Here he was interrupted by a gr an , which issued ro ’ of the chest the squire , and terrified the spectators as much f f as it com orted the master. A ter some recollection , Mr a Fillet began to undress the body , which was laid in blanket

on f l f d . the loor, and ro led rom side to side by his irection A considerable quantity of water being discharged from the ’ of f a a mouth this un ortunate squire , he uttered hideous ro r,

w : and , opening his eyes , stared ildly around then the sur geon undertook for his recovery and his master went forth of f with the ostler in quest the horses , which he had le t by ha f . w as t n the side o the river His back no sooner turned ,

f a - Ferret, who had been peeping rom behind the p ntry door , v t t e s entured orejoin h company pronouncing , with a mile, 1 0 THE ADV E NT URE S or

or of - ! s rather grin contempt , Hey day what preciou

h ? ar e to f of mummery is t is What . we have the arce Ham ’ ’ ’ ‘ h ? the n let s g ost Adzooks , cried captain , my kinsma — Tom has dropped a stern hope in God a - has not bulged ’ ‘ h ’ an d . to , gone to bottom Pis , exclaimed the misan ’ thrope, there s no danger ; the young lawyer is only ’ s eizing Dolly in tail .

l a a Certain it is, Dol y sque ked at that inst nt in the cellar ;

a a af f a and Clarke ppe ring soon ter in some con usion , decl red she had been frightened by a flash of lightning ; but this a t no t e f wh o sser ion was confirmed by the young lady hers l , e t l a c n yed him wi h a su len reg rd, indi ati g displeasure, though not indifferenc e ; and when questioned by her mo ’ ’ A doan t main d w a - doan t ther, replied , hat says, so a , ’ v or all . his golden jacket , then In the meantime the surgeon h ad performed the operation ’ of on f phlebotomy the squire, who was li ted into a chair, and supported by the landla dy for that purpose ; but he had not a s yet given any sign of h aving retrieved the use l of his senses . And here Mr Fi let could not help contem a the and a ts pl ting , with surprise, strange figure ccoutremen

of a e of f . H is his patient , who seemed in g to be turned fi ty

was stature below the middle size ; he was thick , squat, and

al r on one an d brawny, with a sm l p otuberance shoulder, a of prominent belly , which , in consequence the water he had

a a . sw llowed, now strutted beyond its usu l dimensions His f a a and orehe d was rem rkably convex , so very low, that his bla ck bushy hair descended within an inch of his nose ; but

a s of f this did not conce l the wrinkle his ront, which were manifold . His small glimmering eyes resembled those of u ro the Hampshire porker, that turns p the soil with his p jecting snout . His cheeks were shrivelled and puckered at a of the corners, like the se ms a regimental coat , as it comes from the hands of the contractor : his nose bore a str ong a - mul nalogy in shape to a tennis ball , and in colour to a berry ; for all the water Of the river had not been able to

quench the natural fire of . that feature . His upper jaw was e w r ointed or f furnish d with t o long white sha p p teeth angs, SI R L A U C E L R N OT G E A VE s . 1 1 such as the reader may have observed in the chaps of a

f or f - ff a wol , ull grown masti , and an an tomist would de scribe as of den tes ca n i n i a preternatural elongation the . His chin l n so a a a s f was so o g , pe ked, and incurv ted , to orm in pro f x file, with his impending orehead , the e act resemblance Of

in . a moon the first quarter With respect to his equipage, he n ca f had a leather p upon his head , aced like those worn

i r o by mar nes , and exhibiting in emb oidery , the figure f a.

. H is of l f i crescent coat was white c oth , aced w th black,

f in of and cut in a very antique ashion ; and, lieu a waist

o w e re ff . fe c at , he a bu jerkin His et were cased with loose u u d buskins , which , tho gh they rose almost to his knee , co l not ll of h nd hide that curvature, known by the appe ation a y A of bandaliers legs . large string garn ished a broad belt f that graced his shoulders , rom whence depende d an in of e s trument war, which was something b tween a back sword and a cutlass ; and a cas e of pistols were stuck in his girdle . Such was the figure which the whole company now sur

v e ed a . f a to y with admir tion A ter some p use , he seemed

e . his r cover his recollection He rolled about eyes around, t a in and , atten ively surveying every individu l , exclaimed, ’ G i a strange tone, Bodikins where s ilbert This nter h of e rogation did not savour muc sanity, esp cially when accompanied with a wild stare , which is generally inter preted as a sure Sign of a disturbed understanding : never

les s . the , the surgeon endeavoured to assist his recollection ’ d t — f ? ’ Come, sai he , have a good hear How dost do, riend ’ ’ ’ cam — DO ! replied the squire, do as well as I that s a

— no h e too : I might have done better . I had business to be ’ ‘ ’ . ou God here Y ought to thank and your master, re ‘ m for a a ou su ed the surgeon , the providenti l esc pe y have ’ ! ’ ’ ‘ had . Thank my master cried the squire, thank the

devil ! Go and teach your grannum to crack filberds . I ’ to for who know who I m bound pray , and I ought to curse, ’ the longest day I have to live . ’ Here the captai n interposing, Nay , brother, said he, you are boun d to pray for this here gentleman as your 1 2 TH E A Dv E N TUR E s OF

- for if e -f sheet anchor ; , so be as he had not clear d your stow of a ou h ad o age the w ter y taken in at your upper w rks, and ’ i h of l g tened your veins , d ye see , by taking away some your a ! f blood, ad d you had driven be ore the gale , and never ’ ’ u been brought p in this world again , d ye see . What , ’ ‘ ou a then , y would persu de me , replied the patient, that the only way to save my life was to shed my precious blood ? f — e a . I Look ye, riend , it sh ll not be lost blood to me tak

all or or you to witness , that there surgeon , apothecary , fa or - or a he h as rrier, dog doctor, wh tsoever he may , robbed — me of the balsam of life h e has not left so much blood in — my body as would fatten a st arved flea O that there was i i ’ a lawyer here to serve him with a s s er a r . ’ o Then fixing his eyes upon Ferret , he pr ceeded An t

ou of la w f P— ou ou y a limb the , riend No , I cry y mercy , y ’ - m an or . look more like a show a conjurer Ferret, nettled

a t w for a this address , ans ered , It would be well you , th t I could conjure a little common sense into th at numskull of ’ f ’ ’ . I u yours I want that commodity , rejoined the sq ire , — w . Y ou le erdeinain I must go to another market , I tro g men he more like to conjure the money fr om our pockets — . Vor e than sense into our skulls my own part , I was onc cheated of v orty good shillings by on e of your hroother cups ’ - to and halls . In all probability he would have descended

a h ad not of his p rticulars , he been seized with a return

for of . n ausea , which obliged him to call a bumper brandy h This remedy being swallowed , the tumult in his stomac

subsided . He desired he might be put to bed without de

la a f of y, and th t hal a dozen eggs and a pound bacon might,

of for r. in a couple hours, be dressed his suppe He was accordingly led off the scene by the landlady and

her daughter ; an d Mr Ferret h ad just time to . ohs er v e the did fellow was a composition , in which he not know whether or f knave ool most predominated , when the master returned off now dis from the stable . He had taken his helmet , and

played a very engaging counten ance . His age did not

: a seem to exceed thirty he was t ll , and seemingly robust ; f fur his ace long and oval , his nose aquiline, his mouth

Isl TH E A DV E NT UR E S O F

a sorry jest, and app ear equally insipid and bsurd , when f m ff at of really acted ro a ectation , this time day , in a coun l ’ t ry like Eng and . a of r The knight, eyeing this censor with look disdain , e i n f . f ff plied , a solemn lo ty tone He that rom a ecta tion i a a of Don u an mitates the extrav g ncies recorded Q ixote, is

a a impo stor equ lly wicked and contemptible . He th t coun t erfeits u s madness , nless he dis embles , like the elder Brutus, for o a own some virtuous purp se, not only deb ses his soul , but c a ts as a traitor to Heaven , by denying the divinity that is — within him I am neither an affected imitator of Don Q uix ote in of , nor , as I trust Heaven , Visited by that spirit lunacy so admirably displayed in the fi cticious character e xhibited by the inimitable Cervantes . I have not yet en c ountered a wind - mill for a giant ; nor mistaken this public house for a magnificent castle : neither do I believe this gentleman to be the constable ; nor th at worthy practi tioner E lizabat to be Master , the surgeon recorded in Amadis d e i f Gaul ; nor you to be the enchanter Alqu e, nor any — o ther sage of history or romance I see and di stinguish oh jects as they are discerned and described by other men . I a reason without prejudice , can endure contr diction , and ,

hear as the company perceives , even impertinent censure r without passion or resentment . I quar el with none but the f of oes Virtue and decorum , against whom I have declared l perpetual war , and them I wi l everywhere attack as the ’ natural enemies of manki nd . ‘ ’ ‘ But that war, said the cynic, may soon be brought t o o a conclusion , and y ur adventures close in Bridewell , provided you meet with some determined constable, who n s ta will seize your worship as a vagrant, accordi g to the ’ tute . Heaven and earth cried the stranger, starting up, and laying his hand on his sword , do I live to hear my f i n s elf insulted with such an opprobrious epithet , and re ra from trampling into dust the insolent calumniator i ” the The tone in which these words were pronounced, and of in indignation that flashed from the eyes the speaker, timid f d e r t ated every individual o the society , and re uced F r e s m V 1 LAUNCEL OT GREA E S . 5 to a temporary privati on of all his faculties : his eyes r e w w as tired ithin their sockets ; his complexion , which na tur all of n ow f d a e y a copper hue , shi te to lead n colour ; e t e his teeth b gan to chatter ; and all his limbs were agi at d ,

. s n by a sudden palsy The knight ob erved his conditio ,

a I t o m : and resumed his seat, s ying, was bla e my ven — eance for ff . d g must be reserved very di erent objects Frien , — you have nothing to fear the sudden gust of passi on is now l e f I l n blown over . Recol ect yours l , and wi l reaso calmly ’ on the observation you have m ade .

- o a to t who This was a very seas n ble declaration Mr Ferre , f o r Opened his eyes , and wiped his orehead ; while the the o of proce eded in the s e terms . Y u say I am in danger being apprehended as a vagrant : I am not so ignorant of l of I of the aws my country , but that know the description t h hose who fa ll withi n the legal meaning of t is odious term . Y ou f r fr I must give me leave to in o m you , iend , that am

r f l i se ba neither bearwa d , encer, stro ler , g p y, mounte nk , a nor I f c e nor mendic nt ; do practise subtle cra t , to de eiv ’ and impose upon the king s lieges ; nor can I be held as an f to a idle , disorderly person , travelling rom place pl ce, c e of rf i f oll cting monies by virtue counte eited passes , br e s , and t f s - I f I e . n o her alse pret nce what respect, there ore , am t o e 9 o f be deem d a vagrant Answer b ldly , without ear or ’ s cruple . To i a this nterrogation the misanthrope replied , with f If ou altering accent , not a vagrant , y incur the penalty ’ f for e in ff of . o riding arm d a ray the peace But , instead ’ r ff of I iding armed in a ray the peace , resumed the other, ride i n preser vation of the pe ace ; and gentlemen are allowed th w e by e la to wear armour for their defence . Some rid t e rb o wi h blund usses, s me with pistols , some with swords , a according to their various inclinations . Mine is to we r the armour of my forefathers : pe rhaps I use them for e xer cis f f he e, in order to accustom mysel to atigue , and strengt n ’ my constitution ; perhaps I assume them for a frolic . if ou and But y swagger armed in disguise, assault me on th e a r in f for of highw y , o put me bodily ear, the sake 1 6 r m : A DVENTURE S or

’ e law w n ou t h jest , the ill pu ish y in earnest , cried the other ’ ‘ a f But my intention , answered the knight , is c re ully to ’ ’

ll of ff . avoid a those occasions o ence Then , said Ferret , ’ ‘ ‘ ma a . you y go un rmed , like other sober people Not ’ as I so , answered the knight, purpose to travel all times,

a a a and in all places , mine rmour might guard me g inst the attempts of treachery ; it may defend me in combat against I or a odds , should be assaulted by a multitude, have occ ’ - sion to bring malefactors t o justice . ’ ‘ ‘ ou What then , exclaimed the philosopher , y intend to co- operate with the honourable fraternity of thie f takers ’ I a of do purpose , said the youth , eying him with look ' ‘ i neflable t act co- con empt, to as a adjutator to the law, and even to remedy evils which the law cannot re ach ; to detect f f raud and treason , abase insolence , morti y pride , discour a e g slander, disgrace immodesty , and stigmatize ingratitude ’ but the infamous part of a t hief- catcher s character I dis

. I claim neither associate with robbers and pickpockets , to h knowing them be such , that , in being intrusted wit I ff n or their secrets , may the more e ectually betray them ; s hall I ever pocket the reward granted by the legislature to those by whom robbers are brought to conviction : but I shall always think it my duty to rid my country of that of pernicious vermine , which preys upon the bowels the — commonwealth not but that an incorporated company of

' re ulation be of licensed thieves might , under proper g a ser ’ v ice to the community . s Ferret , emboldened by the pas ive tameness with which io the stranger bore his last reflect n , began to think he had n of e othing Hector but his outside, and gave a loos to all

f - t th e acrimony o his party rancour . Hear ing the knigh ’ of mention a company licensed thieves , What else , ‘ of o ? cried he, is the majority the nati n What is your s f - s ? tanding army at home, that eat up their ellow subject ou t What are your mercenaries abroad , whom y hire to fig h own ? is their quarrels What your militia , that wise mea of of sure a sagacious ministry , but a larger gang petty who o ss thieves, steal sheep and poultry thr ugh mere idlene ; SIR R S LAUNCELOT G EAVE . and were they confronted with an enemy,would steal them ? f selves away What is your but a knot o thieves, who of law n pillage the nation under colour , and e rich them s elves with the wreck of their country When you consider

of int ler the enormous debt above an hundred millions , the o

of a a and able load t xes and impositions under which we gro n , ih the manner which that burden is yearly accumulating, to

two n a t our n support Germa elector tes , withou receivi g any

of a w thing in return , but the shows triumph and sh do s of : I s a on m conquest y, when you reflect these circu stances, u and at the same time behold our cities filled with bankr pts ,

our a fa and country with begg rs , can you be so in tuated, as

m n to deny that the inistry is mad , or worse tha mad ; our our our wealth exhausted , people miserable, credit blasted , our on of ? and state the brink perdition This prospect , fa if t indeed , will make the inter impression , we recollec of rofli ate that we ourselves are a pack such p g , corrupted, ’ pusillanimous rascals, as deserve no salvation .

The stranger, raising his voice to a loud tone , replied,

f and in Such , indeed, are the insinuations , equally alse sidious of en , , with which the desperate emissaries a party ’ deavour of a to poison the minds his m jesty s subjects , in de f fiance o common honesty and common sense . But he must s be blind to all perception , and dead to candour, who doe not see and own that we are involved in a just and necessary

a on l war, which has been m intained tru y British principles, our prosecuted with vigour, and crowned with success ; that

our our taxes are easy, in proportion to wealth ; that con quests are equally glorious and important ; th at our com »

our and our merce flourishes , people are happy , enemies h r educed to despair . Is there a man who boasts a Britis of heart , that repines at the success and prosperity his coun ? 0 a h try Such there are, shame to p triotism , and reproac to of h Great Britain ! who act as the emissaries France , bot in word and writing ; who exaggerate our necessary bur

n f r of our de s, magni y ou dangers , extol the power enemies ,

our v a t our n th e deride ictories , tenuate conquests , condem

' measures and s of dis satis ~ of our government, scatter the eeds V l o . V . B 1 8 TH E ADVENTURE S or

faction through the land . Such domestic traitors are doubly of the objects detestation ; first , in perverting truth ; and,

i n fa of secondly, propagating lsehood , to the prejudice that community of which they have professed themselves mem f . O ne o of bers these is well known by the name Ferret , old a of an r ncorous . incorrigible instrument sedition ; happy

for f m for it is him , that he has never allen in y way ; , notwithsta nding the maxims of forbearance which I h ave a n of iff dopted , the indig ation which the character that cait

r of inspi es , would probably impel me to some act violence, I l art fu w and shou d crush him like ungrate l viper, that gna ed the bosom which warmed it into life a i of These l st words were pronounced with a w ldness look ,

that even bordered upon ph renzy . The misanthrope once a for of more retired to the p ntry shelter, and the rest the

guests were evidently disconcerted .

Mr Fillet, in order to change the conversation , which nu was likely to produce serious consequences , expressed common satisfaction at the remarks which the knight had

a of ofli ce he made , signified his approb tion the honourable

a f a had undert ken , declared himsel happy in h ving seen such

n a accomplished cavalier, and observed , that nothing was

wanting to render him a complete knight errant, but some of celebrated beauty , the mistress his heart , whose idea

might animate his breast , and strengthen his arm to the of : utmost exertion valour he added , that love was the soul

of chivalry . his The stranger started at this discourse . He turned eyes on the surgeon with a fixed regard ; his countenance changed ; a torrent of tears gushed down his cheeks ; his f head sunk upon his bosom ; he heaved a pro ound sigh , and remained in silence with all the external marks of unutter r w a f able so ro . The company were, in some me sure , in ect ed s of by his despondence, concerning the cau e which , how

e to . ver , they would not venture inquire ’ of By this time , the landlady , having disposed the squire, ’ court sies if u desired to know, with many , his honour wo ld o ose to off r as t n t cho put his wet ga ments, n him , tha r 1 s ra LA uN a o GREAVE S. 9

h f - e h she ad a very good eather bed at his servic , upon whic many g en tlev olks of the vi rst qu ality had lain ; that the sheets l for were we l aired, and that Dolly would warm them his ff worship with a pan of coals . This hospitable o er being a e f of f e repe ted , he seem d to wake rom a trance grie , aros f u rom his seat , and bowing co rteously to the company , w withdre .

a f of all C ptain Crowe, whose aculty speech had been this s e a a time ab orb d in m zement , now broke into the conversa tion with a volley of interjections Spli t my snatch - block ! ’ - — Odd s firkin l Splice my old shoes - I have sailed th e ’ I a salt seas, brother, since was no higher th n the Triton s taffrel— an d east , west, north , south , as the saying is Mor attos Sea o s — Blacks, Indians , Moors , , and p y ; but, smite my timbers ! such a man of war

w a Here he was interrupted by his nephe , Tom Cl rke, ’ a e now who had dis ppear d at the knight s first entrance, and e i f in the produc d h msel with an eagerness his look , while

tears started in his eyes . Lord bless my soul cried he, I n a I w k ow that gentleman , and his serv nt , as well as kno

own f . I am own f r my ather his godson , uncle ; he stood o bo — f me when he was a yes , indeed , sir, my ather was — y steward to the estate I may s ay I was bred up in the family of E verh ard w Sir Greaves , who has been dead these t o — is es years this the only son , Sir Launcelot ; the b t natur ed — I n ot s , worthy, generous, gentleman care who know it : I love him as well as if he was my own flesh and blood i of At this per od , Tom , whose heart was the melting e f af mood, b gan to sob and weep plenteously , rom pure i fect on . Crowe, who was not very subject to these tender — d d for - nesses, him a chicken hearted lubber ; repeat ’ ' for ? t ing, with much peevishness , What do st cry wha ’ cr for do st y , noddy The surgeon , impatient to know of had a f the story Sir Launcelot, which he he rd imper ectly f recounted , begged that Mr Clarke would compose himsel , and relate it as circumstantially as his memory could retai n m the particulars ; and To , wiping his eyes, promised to 2 0 TH E ADVE NTURE S on

im fa h if so give h that satis ction ; whic the reader, he be

in . minded, may partake the next chapter

I I I CHAPTER .

hich the r eader on er us a l ma wish were cha ter the la s t. W , p , y p

T r e eta tur of i HE doctor prescribe d a p the jalap , and m xed s ecundem a r tem the ingredients , ; Tom Clarke hemmed of a thrice, to clear his pipes ; while the rest the comp ny, m ad including Dolly and her mother, who had by this ti e v t ministered to the knight , composed themsel es into earnes his and hushed attention . Then the young lawyer began n arrative to this effect ’ ’ I emmem e tell ye what , g , I dou t pretend in this here cas — to flourish and harangue like a having never been called ’ — of — I as to but what that , d ye see perhaps may know —f f a . I much as cts are acts , as the saying is shall tell , ’ a l — of fa d e repe t , and relate a p ain story matters ct , y

s e a or , without rhetoric, or tory, ornament, embellishment ; a or without repetition , t utology, circumlocution , going about

f I a a on the bush ; acts which sh ll aver , p rtly the testimony f ow n and a f f of o my knowledge , p rtly rom the in ormation

of an d responsible evidences good repute credit , any circum — s tance known to the contrary notwithstanding for as the if how a n exce tion law saith, so be as there is p to evidence, that excep tion is in its nature but a denial of what is taken a and exce ti i n n on exce tis to be good by the other p rty , p o p , ’ r ma t r e ula m s ee — to fi g , d ye But howsoever, in regard ff if w e e this here a air , we need not be so scrupulous as wer pleading before a judge s eden te a t r i a ? t Ferret, whose curiosity was rather more eager th an tha f o any other person in this audience , being provoked by t h ad his preamble , dashed the pipe he just filled in pieces against the grate ; and after having pronounced the inter je ction pi sh ! with an acrimony of a spect altogether peculiar ’ to mse f If f e hi l , , said he, impertinence and olly wer

2 2 THE ADVENTU RE S or

’ s e was e d quir ven then very handsome, and looke remarkably well in his weepers ; but he had an awkward air and sham m and so and t bling gait, stooped ortally , was shy silent tha h e n ot f nor m h would look a stranger in the ace , open his out f or be ore company . Whenever he spied a horse carriage a t e a a and the gate, he would make his sc pe mto the g rden , from thence into the p ark ; whe re many is the good time and f h as f o ten he been ound sitting under a tree, with a book

G f . in his hand , reading reek , Latin , and other oreign linguas

E verhard f fa Sir himsel was no great scholar, and my ther h ad forgot his classical learning ; and s o the rect or of the to was parish was desired examine young Launcelot . It a ’ long time b efore he found an opportunity ; the squire al w ays gave him the slip . A t length the parson catched him

“ i n of and o bed a morning, l cking the door, to it they went

tooth and n ail . What passed betwixt them the Lord in h a f e e ven knows ; but , when the doctor came orth , he look d w if f e ild and haggard as he had seen a ghost , his ac as white

a s and - paper, his lips trembling like an aspe n leaf. Par ’ ’ s on —how , said the knight , what is the matter do st find m son I o e he out y h p wont turn a ninny , and disgrace his ’ f m ! d c r f m f a ily The o to , wiping the sweat ro his orehead , r w t — he eplied , ith some hesi ation , he could not tell hoped — ’ th e best the s quire was to b e sure a very extraordinary ’ G oun en . f i y g g tleman But the ather urging him to g ve an e e f a d xplicit answ r, he rankly decl re , that , in his Opinion ,

the s on out of or would turn either a mirror wisdom , a monu

m t of f for and alto e en olly ; his genius disposition were g a t her preternatur l . The knight was sorely vexed at this de

c lar ation and a , signified his displeasure by s ying, the doctor, l l n e a ike a true priest, dealt myst ries and oracles , th t would of d ff admit i erent and indeed contrary interpretations . He

aft m f a erwards consulted y ather, who had served as stew rd u e for an d pon the state above thirty years , acquired a con ’ ble of f s idera . a a be share his avour Will Cl rke , s id , with t I f ears in his eyes , what shall do with this un ortunate lad I would to God he had never been born ; for I fear he will brin m r I g ygrey hairs with sor ow to thegrave . When am gone, 2 3 s ra LAUNCEL OT GREAVES. h l w s f f e wil thro away the estate, and bring him el to in amy and m in . , by keeping company with rooks and beggars 0 Will I could forgive extravagance in a young man ; but it breaks my heart to see my only son give such repeated proofs of a mean spirit and sordid disposition e old of not Her the gentleman shed a flood tears , and w o ithout some sh adow f reason . By this time Launcelot was so fa grown reserved to his ther, that he seldom saw him, or of i n any his relations , except when he was a manner f fu orced to appear at table , and there his bash lness seemed

e r . On the a e h ad fo very day to inc ease other h nd, h rmed s e r v om very strange connections . Eve y morning he isited the r stable, whe e he not only conversed with the grooms and h e s a a : he fed lper , but scraped acqu int nce with the horses his f own s troaked d and avourites with his hand, , caresse , r od i f a e them by turns ; t ll at last they grew so amili r, that, e a- fi eld at saw ven when they were grass , and him at a dis t a so ance, they would toss their m nes, whinny like many c f e olts at sight o the dam , and galloping up to the plac

w s . here he stood , mell him all over Y ou o f must kn w that I mysel , though a child , was his companion in all these excursions . He took a liking to me on of account my being his godson , and gave me more money than I knew what to do with : he had al ways plenty of for f cash the asking, as my ather was ordered to supply him n of liberally , the k ight thinking that a command money might help to raise his thoughts to a proper consideration of his own importance . He never could endure a common be not e t of fa ggar, that was eith r in a sta e in ncy or of old a e e s g ; but , in other resp ct , he made the guineas fly in such a m e a manner, as looked or like m dness than generosity . H e no i had communication with your r ch yeomen , but rather t m f reated the and their amilies with studied contempt, be cause forsooth they pretended to assume the dress and man ne of rs the gentry . e f t s They k pt their oo men , their addle horses , and chaises t w d e heir ives and aughters appear d in their jewels , their s n d ilks, and their sati s, their negligees an trollope es ; their 2 4! THE ADVENTURES or

s of f in clumsy shank , like as many shins bee , were cased

i - s lk hose and embroidered slippers : their raw red fingers ,

as of a a - a gross the pipes ch mber org n , which had been em

l in or ployed in mi king the cows , twirling the mop churn

s aff a a a h m t , being dorned with di monds , were t ug t to thru

of ! the pandola , and even to touch the keys the harpsichord

v a Nay , in every ill ge they kept a rout, and set up an as

- f he s embly ; and in one place a hog butcher was master o t i ceremon es . I have heard Mr Greaves ridicule them for their vanity f and awkwa rd imitation ; and there ore , I believe, he avoid e d to all concerns with them , even when they endeavoured of h engage his attention . It was the lower sort people wit m who he chiefly conversed, such as ploughmen , ditchers ,

da - l h and other y abourers . To every cottager in the paris w f e he as a bounteous bene actor . He was in the literal sens of the word a careful overseer of the poor ; for he went from té of house house , industriously inquiring into the distresses e a a the people . H rep ired their huts , clothed their b cks,

an d for filled their bellies, supplied them with necessaries

exercising their industry and different occupations . ’ on e a now of I ll give you inst nce , as a specimen his char : one on of acter he and I , strolling day the side a common ,

' s aw t wo boys picking hips and haws from the hedges ; one

seemed to be about five , and the other a year older ; they a f fat were both b re oot and ragged , but at the same time , ’ fa ou ? ir, and in good condition . Who do y belong to ’ ‘ s a . id Mr Greaves To Mary Stile, replied the oldest , the ’ f ’ on e of . A nd how widow that rents them housen do st live , ’ ’

f . my boy Thou lookest resh and jolly , resumed the squire ’

a . Lived well enough till yesterday , nswered the child ’ ‘ w t a e ? And pray ha h pp ned yesterday , my boy continued ’ ‘ . ! Mr Greaves Happened said he, why , mammy had ’ coo le of keawe s a u to a p little Welch , th t gi en milk eno gh ’ ’ ’ fill our all bellies ; mammy s , and mine, and Dick s here, ’ and my two little sisters at hoam : yesterday the squire ’ ’ s keawes for rot un ! a eized the rent , God M mmy s gone to bed sick and s ulky ; my two sisters be crying at home Yor s ra E 2 5 LAUNC L OT GREAVE S . vood ; and Dick and I be come hither to pick haws and ’ bullies . ’ My godfather s face grew red as scarlet ; he took one of th e a a a children in either h nd, and le ding them tow rds the f E v e rh ard fa f the house, ound Sir talking with my ther be ore of m . old a h e gate Instead avoiding the gentle n , as usual , him f brushed up to with a spirit he had never shewn be ore , ’ a be and presenting the two ragged boys , Surely, sir, s id , ‘ ou l a di y wil not counten nce that there ru an your steward , in oppressing the w idow and fatherless ? On preten ce of dis for of the training the rent a cottage , he has robbed mother of fa - of h these and other poor in nt orphans two cows, whic

ou con afforded them their whole sustenance . Shall y be cerned in tearing the hard- earned morsel from the mouth of ? indigence Shall your name, which has been so long men tioned as a blessing , be now detested as a curse by the poor,

and f ? f of w as the helpless , orlorn The ather these babes once

- of your game keeper, who died a consumption caught in Y ou ahn os t —I f m your service . see they are naked ound the plucking haws and sloes , in order to appease their hunger .

a t The wretched mother is st rving in a cold cottage, distrac d of tw o f for f e with the cries other in ants , clamorous ood ; and while her heart is bursting with anguish and despair, ’ s h e invokes Heaven to avenge the widow s cause upon the ’ head of her unrelenting landlord ! This unexpected address brought tears into the eyes of l ‘ ’ o d . the good gentleman Will Clarke , said he to my f ‘ ? ather, how durst you abuse my authority at this rate a o You who know I have been lways a protector , not an p f f a o a d . im pressor , the needy n un ortun te I charge you , go mediately and comfort this poor woman with immediate re f of own of lie ; instead her cows , let her have two the best

‘ milch cows of my dairy ; they shall graze i n my parks in

f m ha in . summer, and be oddered with y y winter She shall s it rent free for life ; and I will take care of these her poor ’ orphans . c This was a very affecting scene . Mr Laun elot took f ’ his ather s hand and kissed it, while the tears ran down his 26 T HE ADVE NTURES or cheeks ; and Sir E v erh ard embraced his son with great ten

i a God for derness , cry ng my de r boy be praised having f ’ f w given you such a eeling heart . My ather himself as

f a i of the and moved, tho a pr ct tioner law, consequently s — H e e used to distresse declared, that he had given no dirc tions to distrain ; and th at the bailiff must have done it by ’ own a . If a his uthority that be the case, s id the young ’ ’

s out of our . quire , let the inhuman rascal be turned service

all a Well , gemmen , the children were immedi tly cloth e d fe d and h ad and , the poor widow well nigh run distract l . o d of ed with joy The knight, being a humane temper ’ f w as f of his himsel , pleased to see such proo s son s generosity

w as not an his he gry at his spending money , but at squand

w a a of ering a y his time mong the dregs the people . For ou l y must know , he not on y made matches , portioned poor

a . m idens , and set up young couples that came together with out m d v oney ; but he mingled in every rustic i ersion , and i l bore away the prize n every contest . He exce led every swain of that district in fea ts of strength and activity ; in

a - a le ping , running, wrestling , cricket , cudgel pl ying, and f out of pitching the bar ; and was con essed to be, sight, the best dancer at all wakes and holid ays : happy was the country ’ o girl who could engage the young squire as her partner. T

w as a for how m be sure , it comely sight to see as the buxo

- a f f a a country l sses , resh and r gr nt , and blushing like the t rose, in heir best apparel dight, their white hose, and clean t of cot short dimity petticoats , heir gaudy gowns printed ton - bedinzed s ; their top knots and stomachers, with bunche of of to ribbons various colours, green , pink , and yellow ; s ee e on them crown d with garlands , and assembled May ’ d a f a y , to dance be ore squire Launcelot, as he m de his ’ n a all morni g s progress through the vill ge . Then the young

a a a a e pe sants m de their ppe rance with cockades , suit d to

h f of a - and bou li s of t e ancies their sever l sweet hearts , g

children s orted flowering h awthorn . The p about like flocks ‘ of f a or fr risking l mbs , the young y swarming under the sunny ld f d . o bank o some me an ring river The men and women ,

d - o to r: in their holi ay garments, st od at their doors receive thei s rn L L R E S 927 AUNCE OT G EAV .

f f bene actor, and poured orth blessings on him as he pass ed the him h the children welcomed with t eir shrill shouts , I d on of a and amsels with s gs pr ise , the young men with the i a f - h p pe and t bor, marched be ore him to the May pole, whic was bedecked with flowers and bloom . There the rural f w of dance began ; a plenti ul dinner, ith oceans good liquor, was bespoke at the White Hart : the whole village was re ’ ’ galed at the sq uire s expense ; and both the day and the w night as spent in mirth and pleasure . Lord help you he could n ot rest if he thought there was an aching heart in the whole parish . Every paltry cottage was f in a little time converted into a pretty, snug, com ort a a ble habitation , with wooden porch at the door, glass ease ments l in the windows , and a little garden behind , wel ’ s w . tored ith greens, roots, and sallads In a word, the poor s rate was reduced to a mere trifle ; and one would have

in . thought the golden age was revived Yorkshire But, as ou f old not his I told y be ore, the knight could bear to see s on so l only who ly attached to these lowly pleasures, while he industriously shunned all opportunities of appearing in that superior sphere to which he was designed by nature and f of by ortune . He imputed his conduct to meanness spirit, and advised with my father touching the properest expedient

- to wean his affections from such low born pursuits . My father counselled him to send the young gentleman up to t e London , to be entered as a student in the Temple , and commended him to the superintendance of some person wh o w in kne the town , and might engage him insensibly such f a amusements and connections , as would soon li t his ide s above the humble objects on which they had been hitherto r employed . This advice appeared so saluta y , that it was ’ followed without the least hesitation . The young squire himself was perfectly well s atisfied with the proposal ; and in a few days he set out for the great city : but there was not r a dry eye in the pa ish at his departure , although he prevailed upon his father to pay in his absence all the pen sions he had granted to those who could not live on the fruit of w In their o n industry . what manner he spent his time 928 THE ADVENTURE S or

of in London , it is none my business to inquire ; thof I know pretty well what kind of lives are led by gemmen of your f ’ o . f inns court I mysel once belonged to Serjeant s inn , and was perh aps as good a wit and a critic as any templar f o all. N a for a f them y , as that m tter, tho I despise vanity ,

can t af a h ad I aver wi h a s e conscience , th t I once the hon our to belong to the society called the town we were all of ’ us a h ad our an ttorney s clerks , gemmen , and meetings at

- ale house in Butcher row , where we regulated the diversion s of the theatre . But to return from this digression : Sir E verhard Greaves did not seem to be very well pleased with the conduct of his f s on a t Lodon . He got notice o some irregularities and

’ scrapes into which he h ad fallen ; an d th e squire seldom

fa w him for wrote to his ther , except to dra upon money ;

fa a t t ld which he did so st , th t in eigh een mon hs the o gentle

all a man lost p tience . ’ a an At this period Squire D rnel chanced to die , leaving

a e of a- only d ught r , a minor, heiress three thousand year, e a d a h of h und r the gu r i ns ip her uncle Anthony , w ose brutal

a character all the world knows . The bre th was no sooner ’ of a if out his brother s body , th n he resolved , possible, to succeed him in p arliament as represen t ative for the borough of

A sh en ton . Now you must know , that this borough had been for m any years a bone of contention between the families of Greaves and Darnel ; and at length the difference was compro mise d th e in ter osition of f by _ p riends , on condition that Sir ’ E v erhar d and Squire D arnel should alternately represent the h to fo place in parliament . T ey agreed this compromise r their mutual convenience but they were never heartily re did con cile d . Their political principles not tally ; and their wives looked upon each other as rivals in fortune and mag

ifi ce nce a in tercous e n ; so th t there was no between them , thof they lived in the s ame neighbourhood . On the con t rar in a y , all disputes , they const ntly headed the Opposite E v erh ar d a n p arties . Sir underst ndi g that Anthony Dar l was ne had begun to canvass , and putting every iron in the of a ctum a milce f fire, in violation and contempt the p f be ore

30 THE ADVE NTURES or

I r f and da esay set many a emale heart a palpitating . When bum he made his first appearance, there was just such a ming and clapping of hands as you may have heard when

the celebrated Garrick comes upon the stage in King Lear,

or or . how King Richard , any other top character But our m n agreeably were we disappointed , when young gentle a a an m de such an oration as would have not disgraced a Pitt , or r in Egmont , a Mu ray While he spoke , all was hushed admiration and attention ; you could have almost heard a ou feather drop to the ground . It would have ch armed y to bear w ith what modesty he recounted the services which his father and grandfather had done to the corporation ; with wh a t eloquence he expati ated upon the shameful infrac tion of the treaty subsisting between the two families ; and with what keen and spirited strokes of satire he retorted the f sarcasms o Darnel .

He no sooner concluded his harangue, than there was

of a . such a burst pplause , as seemed to rend the very sky Our music immediately struck up ; our people advanced i w th their ensigns , and , as every man had a good cudgel ,

broken heads would have ensued , had not Mr Darnel and

his party thought proper to retr eat with uncommon dispatch . ff s aw He never o ered to make another public entrance, as he the torrent ran so violently against him ; but sat down with his his loss , and withdrew opposition , though at bottom ex

tremely mortified and incensed . Sir E v erhard was unani mous l a to n y elected , and ppeared be the happiest man upo for fr e arth ; , besides the pleasure arising om his victory over hi in this competitor, he was now lly satisfied that his son ,

of i u f . s tead disgrac ng, wo ld do honour to his amily It would of s r n have moved a heart tone, to see with what a tender t a of o his f s port paternal jy he received dear Launcelot , a ter of A shenton having heard his deportment and success at ,

w b - - l l here, y the bye, he gave a ba l to the adies , and display ed l if as much elegance and po iteness, as he had been bred

at the court of Versailles . This joyou s season was of short duration : in a little time all the happiness of the family was overcas t by a sad N s ra LAU CELOT GREAVE S . 3 1

f f e n incident , which hath le t such an un ortunat impressio

of a I f upon the mind the young gentlem n , as , am a raid, ’

ffa . a a th will never be e ced Mr D rnel s niece and w rd, e

e a w as cele bra gr at heiress , whose n me is Aurelia , the most t

ed beauty of the whole country ; if I s aid the whole king“

or a I d o h er dom , indeed all Europe, perh ps should barely " be . I to justice don t pretend a limner, gemmen ; nor does it become me to delineate such excellence ; but surely I may f m pres ume to repeat ro the play,

Oh ! sh e is all h a a in in can ex ress t t p t g p , Or youthful poets fancy wh en th ey love

A t a fa that time she might be bout seventeen tall and ir, — and so exquisitely shaped You may talk of your Venus de a a a if Medicis , your Dianas , your Nymphs , and G l te s ; but

la Praxiteles , and Roubillac, and Wilton , were to y their

o a a of heads t gether, in order to m ke a complete p ttern

e of f . b auty , they would hardly reach her model per ection

fo a of h As r complexion , poets will t lk blending the lily wit

of of the rose , and bring in a parcel similes cowslips , car ’

an d a . has nations , pinks , d isies There s Dolly , now , got a ’ ver y goo d complexion ; indeed she s the very picture of

h — ou are healt and innocence y , indeed , my pretty lass ‘ a a a but par va comp onere m g n is . Miss Darnel is all m zing u ! f bea ty , delicacy , and dignity Then the so tness and ex pression of her fi ne blue eyes ; her pouting lips of coral hue ; of n her neck , that rises like a tower polished alabaster betwee ’

two of . I ou mounts snow tell y what, gemmen , it don t sig ’ nify talking ; if e er a one of you was to meet this young

in m of or un lady alone, the idst a heath or common , any f u on req uented place, he wo ld down his knees , and think ' he kneeled before some supernatural being . I ll tell you

n more ; she not only resembles a angel in beauty, but a an of all saint in goodness , and hermit in humility ; so void ' ' rid flable e and aflectation ; f , a , p ‘ so so t, and sweet and and humane Lord I could tell such instances of her charity Sure enough she and Sir Launcelot w as formed by na for w of f e ture each other ; ho soever, the cruel hand ortun

t f r e e . E e ha h intervened, and severed them o v r v ry soul 32 THE ADVENTURE S or that knew them both said it was a thousand pities but they and a s hould come together, extinguish , in their h ppy union ,

a of fa s o f the mutual nimosity the two milies , which had o ten embroiled the whole neighbourhood . Nothing was heard but the praises of Miss Aurelia D arnel and Mr Launcelot Greave s ; and no doubt the parties were prepossessed by this

f of a h . s applause in avour e ch ot er At length , Mr Greave

on a the went e Sund y to her parish church ; but, though

a of greater p rt the congregation watched their looks , they of or could not perceive that she took the least notice him , a f that he seemed to be struck with her appear nce . He a ter u of wards had an opport nity seeing her, more at leisure , at

a a the York ssembly, during the r ces ; but this opportunity was of ff a h ad e productive no good e ect , bec use he that sam day quarrelled with her uncle on the turf. old An grudge, you know, gemmen , is soon inflamed to

was a fresh rupture . It thought Mr Darnel came on pur ff pose to shew his resentment . They di ered about a bet Cleve rle s of upon Miss g , and , in the course the dispute, Mr ’ Darnel called him a petulant boy . The young squire, who him h was as hasty as gunpowder, told he was man enoug to chastise him for his insolence ; and would do it on the

if . In spot, he thought it would not interrupt the diversion all probability they would have come to points immediately, had not the gentlemen interposed ; so that nothing further

a of f on a of passed, but abund nce oul language the p rt Mr fi Anthony, and a repeated de ance to single combat . r f Mr Greaves , making a low bow, etired rom the field ; and in the evening danced at the assembly with a young f lady rom the bishopric , seemingly in good temper and spi

w as rits, without having any words with Mr Darnel, who in also present . But the morning he visited that proud neighbour betimes ; and they had almost reached a grove of on of trees the north side the town , when they were sudden l f e of y overtaken by hal a doz n gentlemen , who had watched their motions . In was in vain for them to dissemble their

l a ff design , which cou d not now t ke e ect . They gave up their pistols, and a reconciliation was patched up by the L E S 83 s m LAUNCE OT GR AVE . pressing rem onstrances of their common friends ; but Mr ’ out Darnel s hatred still rankled at bottom , and soon broke f in the sequel . About three months a ter this transaction , his e niec Aurelia, with her mother , having been to visit a lady i n and th e the chariot , the horses being young , not used to t of a - on races, were startled at the braying jack ass the com f e mon , and, taking right , ran away with the carriage , lik

a w as f box lightning . The co chman thrown rom the , and f the ladies screamed piteously or help . Mr Greaves chanced . to be a- horseback on the other side of an inclosure when he to w the heard their shrieks , and , riding up the hedge, kne s chariot , and saw their di aster . The horses were then run ni f in ng ull speed such a direction , as to drive headlong over

c a e and a pre ipice into a stone qu rry , wh re they the chariot

and the ladies must be dashed in pieces . ‘ Y ou may conceive , gemmen , what his thoughts were s a w in th e of when he such a fine young lady , flower her n age, just plu ging into eternity ; when he saw the lovely A on of i urelia the brink be ng precipitated among rocks, where her delicate limbs must be mangled and tore asunder ; b e f th when perceived, that , be ore he could ride round by e a l . f was gate, the tr gedy wou d be finished The ence so thick a on and high , fl nked with a broad ditch the outside , that not he could hope to clear it, although he was mounted on out of Scipio, bred Miss C owslip , the sire Muley , and his

f a w as grandsire the amous Arabian Mustaph . Scipio bred f by my ather, who would not have taken a hundred guineas “ — for him from any other person but the young squire In I e o f deed, hav heard my p or ather say ' ’ By this time Ferre t s impatience was become so outrage

ous m f fa , that he exclai ed, in a urious tone, damn your

a ther, and his horse, and his colt into the barg in Tom x made no reply , but began to strip with great e pe

. a dition Captain Crowe was so choked with passion , th t he could utter nothing but disjointed sentences : he rose from h w his seat, brandished his horsewhip , and , seizing his nep e C heartlikins ! I a a by the ollar, cried, odds sirrah , h ve

—D l fire i ou - good mind evi your runn ng tackle, y land lub l V Vo . . C 3 L TH E A DVE N TURE S o r — be r l can t you steer without all this tacking hither and ’ an d - ! thither, the Lord knows whither Noint my block ’ ’ I d give thee a rope s end for thy supper if it want Dolly had conceived a sneaking kindness for the young and in of ei lawyer, , thinking him danger b ng roughly ’

f. in handled , flew to his relie She twisted her hand Crowe s — ‘ ’ I neckcloth without ceremony , crying , sha t then , tell

old —VVho Vi v oo ish thee, codger kears a g vor thy l tran ’ trums ?

f nd While Crowe looked black in the ace , a ran the risk f ul of a a o strang ation under the gripe this m zon , Mr Clarke f of nd having disengaged himsel his hat, wig, coat , a waist

e of u l ff coat , advanc d in an elegant attitude man a o ence to f m wards the misanthrope, who snatched up a gridiron ro the chimney corner, and discord seemed to clap her sooty w e ings in expectation of battle . But as the reader may hav more than once already cursed the unconscionable length of th e this chapter, we must postpone to the next opportunity of r incidents that succeeded this denunciation wa .

V CHAPTER I .

n whi i t a ea r s tha t the kn i ht when hea r til s et i n er I ch p p g , y f

s lee in wa s not ea s il dis tur bed. p g , y

I all of Libn f N probability the kitchen the Black , rom a do m es tic of f u temple society and good ellowship , wo ld have or of been converted into a scene stage sanguinary dispute, had not P allas or Discretion interposed in the person of Mr and of Fillet , , with the assistance the ostler, disarmed the not of of i combatants, only their arms , but also the r resent ment . The impetuosity of Mr Clarke was a little checked at ei h o r uncom g t f the g idiron , which Ferret brandished with mon dexterity ; a circumstance from whence the company u a f were, pon reflection , induced to believe , th t , be ore he s e of c l plunged into the a politics, he had o casiona ly figured m s LAUNCEL OT GRE AVE S. 35 in the character of that facetious droll who accompanie s

a f a a of your itiner nt physicians , under the amili r appell tion

- d or J - an d on a Merry An rew ack Pudding, the wooden st ge e a on - box or s on ntertains the popul ce with a solo the salt , a

n a on . at the tongs and gridiron Be that as it may , the young la wyer seemed to be a li ttle discomposed at the glancm of a a of ff f ing this extr ordin ry weapon o ence , which the air

a of as h nds Dolly had scoured , until it had shone bright as

‘ f or a b of old the shield o Achilles ; s the em lem good Eng, l f b f ish are, which hangs by a red rib on round the neck o ’ - a that thrice honoured sage s head , in velvet bonnet c sed,

s a a who preside by rot tion at the genial bo rd , distinguished by the title of the beg - s teak club; where the delica te rumps ’ a the e m irresistibly attract the str nger s eye , and , while y s e ” out a to cry , come cut me , come me , constr in , by won dr ous mon th sympathy , each to overflow ; where the

' - d ing and humourous Jemmy B t , the gentle Billy H ,

an d Johnn replete with human kindness , the generous y B —d t a , respected and beloved by all the world , a tend s

of ’ the priest and ministers mirth , good cheer , and jollity , i and assist with culinary art the raw , unpract sed , awkward

guest . — But to return fr om this di gres sw e sm ile The ostler no

s a a a Tom ooner stept between those men cing ant gonists , th n r e Clarke very quietly resumed his clothes , and Mr Ferret h signed the gridiron without farther question . T e doctor did not find it quite so easy to relea se the throat of C aptain

f of a l Crowe rom the masculine grasp the Vir go Dol y , whose fingers could not be disengaged until the honest seam an was

f a almost at the last gasp . A ter some p use, during which he for d panted breath , and untied his neckcloth , amn thee " for a I a brimstone g lley , cried he, was never so grappled w I f ! t he ithal since knew a card rom a compass . Adzooks ’ a tau h tened l— j de has so g my rigging, d ye see, that Snatch if m w ’ my bowlines, I co e athwart thy ha ser, I ll turn thy — keel upwards or mayhap set thee adriving under thy bare — — —I —I l - fire I 3 poles will wi l , you hell , saucy will D n M wn olly made no reply, but, s eei g r Clarke sit do 36 THE ADVENT URES on

again with great composure, took her station likewise at the

of a h opposite side the partment . T en Mr Fillet requested

aw f e the l yer to proceed with his story , which , a ter thre .

hems , he accordingly prosecuted in these words .

I ou a a on told y gemmen , th t Mr Gre ves was mounted

Scipio, when he saw Miss Darnel and her mother in danger

of being hurried over a precipice . Without reflecting a

m one he oment, he gave Scipio the spur, and at spring

fi ve - - f cleared and twenty eet , over hedge and ditch , and f in to e very obstruction . Then he rode ull speed, order

t n - an d ur the coach horses ; , finding them quite wild and f of hi urious, endeavoured to drive against the counter the m ci io on th e ther horse, which he issed, and staked poor t p

of . pole the coach The shock was so great , that the coach f of horses made a ull stop within ten yards the quarry , and

f a - Mr Greaves was thrown orw rds towards the coach box ,

w a hich , mounting with admir ble dexterity , he seized the

reins before the horses could recover of their fr ight . At that i c u m nstant the oachman came running p, and loosed the

from the traces with the utmost dispatch . Mr Greaves had

i now t me to give his attention to the ladies, who were well

f a nigh distracted with e r . He no sooner opened the chariot d a h of oor, than Aureli , wit a wildness look , sprung into his hi f a . I arms , and, clasping m round the neck , ainted aw y

e ou f at leav y to guess , gemmen , what were his eelings this

instant . The mother was not so discomposed , but that she

to f could contribute the recovery o her daughter, whom the ’ young squirestill supported in his embrace . At length she

of retrieved the use her senses , and , perceiving the situation he fa in which s was , the blood revisited her ce with a re d oubled glow, while she desired him to set her down upon

the turf. far f or Mrs Darnel , rom being shy reserved in her com

li ments - of p acknowledgments , kissed Mr Launcelot without a of ceremony , the te rs gratitude running down her cheeks him who she called her dear son , her generous deliverer, , at z of own f h ad f the ha ard his li e , saved her and her child rom

the most dismal fate that could be imagined .

38 THE ADVE NTURE S or

” for P an you any commands me The other replying, with " of ff air indi erence , none at all , Mr Darnel asked what f h ad procured him the honour o a visit . The young gentle man perceiving by the manner in which he spoke th at th e

old l quarrel was not yet extinguished , answered , with equa

a for if disd in , that the visit was not intended him ; and that , a of f f he wanted to know the c use it , he might in orm himsel ’ f wn . n o by his o servants So I shall , cried the u cle Aure h of lia , and per aps let you know my sentiments the mat ’ f ” ter . Herea ter, as it may be , said the youth , who , turn

out of f ing the avenue , walked home , and made his ather

of acquainted with the particulars this adventure . a for The old gentlem n chid him his rashness , but seem

of ed pleased with the success his attempt , and still more so, of when he understood his sentiments Aurelia, and the de f portment o the ladies . Next day the son sent over a servant with a compliment a h n to inquire bout their healt and the messenger, being see n w as d and by Mr Dar el , told that the ladies were in isposed ,

a did not choose to be troubled with mess ges . The mother

al f of was re ly seized with a ever, produced by the agitation a her spirits, which every d y became more and more violent , a of f until the physicians desp ired her li e . Believing that a to e her end appro ched, she sent a trusty servant Mr Greav s , desiring that she might see him without delay an d he im out mediately set with the messenger, who introduced him

in the dark . f u old a the He o nd the lady in bed almost exh usted , and a f fair Aureli sitting by her, overwhelmed with grie ; her

lovely hair in the utmost disorder, and her charming eyes

e a inflamed with we ping . The good l dy beckoning Mr to L auncelot to approach , and directing all the attendants f f m I quit the room , except a avourite maid , ro whom learn d e the story , she took him by the hand , and , fixing her eyes f of d upon him with all the ondness a mother, she some tears of his in silence , while the same marks sorrow trickled down ’ f ff s on cheeks . A ter this a ecting pause , my dear , said he ‘ ! t c e l to see so n e ! s , Oh tha I ould hav ived you i de d s ra UN E LOT LA C GREAVE S . 39

’ of f tenders you find me hastening to the goal li e . Here the f hearted Aurelia, being unable to contain hersel longer,

out v of f . broke into a iolent passion grie , and wept aloud

The mother, waiting patiently till she had thus given vent a n f sub to her anguish , calmly entre ted her to resig hersel mis sively to the will of heaven : then turn ing to Mr Laun ’ celot I f of , had indulged , said she , a ond hope seeing f for you allied to my amily . This is no time me to insist f n upon the ceremonies and orms of a vai world . Aurelia ’ of looks upon you with the eyes tender prepossession . No n sooner had she pronounced these words , tha he threw him

f ou f n sel his knees be ore the you g lady , and , pressing her f the hand to his lips , breathed the so test expressions which ’

. I the most delicate love could suggest know , resumed m ‘ a d I other, that your passion is mutually sincere ; n s if I n be hould die satisfied, thought your unio would not

. - in - i s opposed ; but that violent man my brother law , who ’ Aurelia s sole guardian , will thwart her wishes with every obstacle that brutal resentment and implacable malice can

i . I contr ve Mr Greaves , have long admired your virtues, and am confident that I can depend upon your honour . Y ou I am ou shall give m e your word , that , when gone, y will take no steps in t his affair without the concurrence of your father ; and endeavour by all fair and honourable means , to vanquish the prejudices , and obtain the consent , of her uncle : the rest we must leave to the dispensation of ’ Providence . ’ The f squire promised , in the most solemn and ervent m to the of a anner, obey all her injunctions , as last dictates parent whom he should never cease to honour . Then she f m o of avoured the b th with a great deal salutary advice, touching their conduct before and after marri age ; and pre s of ff ented him with a ring, as a memorial her a ection ; at th e off a same time he pulled another his finger, and m de a of of tender it as a pledge his love to Aurelia, whom her mother permitted to receive this token . Finally , he took a f of f last arewell the good matron , and returned to his ather with the particul ars of this interview. 49 THE ADVENTURE S or

n f a In two days Mrs Dar el departed this li e , and Aureli of f was removed to the house a relation , where her grie had i l ke to h ave proved fatal to her constitution .

In the meantime , the mother was no sooner committed

a f of to the earth , than Mr Gre ves , mind ul her exhortations , began to take measures for a reconciliation with the guardian . f He engaged several gentlemen to interpose their good o fices , but they always met with the most mortifying repulse ; and

a at last Anthony Darnel declared , th t his hatred to the house f o G . reaves was hereditary , habitual , and unconquerable

’ He swore he would spend his heart s blood to perpetuate the a quarrel ; and that, sooner than his niece should m tch with

ul . young Launcelot , he wo d sacrifice her with his own hand

a The young gentlem n , finding his prejudice so rancor ous f off a f a and invincible , le t m king any urther adv nces ; f re and , since he ound it impossible to obtain his consent ,

a of solved to cultiv te the good graces Aurelia, and wed her f in despite of her implacable guardian . He ound means to e stablish a literary correspondence with her as soon as her f ff f grie was a little abated , and even to e ect an interview a ter her return to her own house ; but he soon had reason to re f pent o this indulgence . The uncle entertained spies upon

a a him an a of the young l dy, who g ve ccount this meeting ; in consequence of which she was suddenly hurried to som e

a of t . distant p rt the coun ry , which we never could discover It was then we thought Mr Launcelot a little disordered

a f a nd in his br in , his grie was so wild , his passion so impe f . r e tuons He re used all sustenance , neglected his person , nounce d out a o his amusements , rode in the r in s metimes

- a bare headed strolled bout the fields all night , and became of him so peevish , that none the domestics durst speak to

f ok a a without the hazard o br e n b on es . H ving pl yed these

for a a of pranks about three weeks , to the unspe k ble chagrin

f of all his ather, and the astonishment that knew him , he w suddenly gre calm , and his good humour returned . But

fa f this , as your sea ring people say , was a deceit ul calm , f that ushered in a dread ul storm . He had long sought an opportunity to tamper with some ra E S 41 s LAUNC LOT GREAVE .

’ f of of Mr Darnel s servants , who could in orm him the place where Aurelia was confined ; but there w as not one about the family who could give him th at satisfaction ; for the persons who accompanied her remained as a watch upon

of to her motions , and none the other domestics were privy f the transaction . All attempts proving ruitless , he could a f in no longer , restrain his imp tience, but throwing himsel

of u in h the way the uncle , pbraided him suc harsh terms , that a formal challenge ensued . They agreed to decide ff one o f their di erence without witnesses ; and m rning , be ore

- sun rise, met on that very common where Mr Greaves had f o saved the life o Aurelia . The first pist l was fired On each ’ side without any effect ; but Mr Darnel s second wounded ’ a the young squire in the flank ; nevertheless , h ving a pistol

his a f - The in reserve , he desired ant gonist to ask his li e . a of other, inste d submitting , drew his sword ; and Mr

air fo ow a Greaves , firing his piece into the , ll ed his ex mple.

t of on The con est then became very hot, though short c

tinuance . e our Darnel b ing disarmed at the first onset , ’ ’ e young squire gave him back the sword , which he was bas to h enough use a second time against his conqueror . Suc an instance of repeated ingratitude and brutal ferocity di

Mr of f a vested Greaves his temper and orbearan ce . He r

Mr f e tacked Anthony with great ury, and at the first long z f ran him up to the hilt, at the same time sei ed with his le t ’ of hand the shell his enemy s sword , which he broke in dis f dain . Mr Darnel having allen , the other immediately mounted his horse, which he had tied to a tree before the

a f A shenton eng gement , and riding ull speed to , sent a sur ’ f geon to Anthony s assistance . He a terwards ingenuously f f con essed all these particulars to his ather, who was over

for of whelmed with consternation , the wounds Darnel were j udged mortal ; and as no person had seen the p articulars

‘ of n the duel , Mr Launcelot might have bee convicted of murder .

O n f se r these considerations , be ore a warrant could be v old of a eu ed upon him , the knight, by dint the most e ger of h a treaties, accompanied with marks orror and desp ir, 42 THE ADVE NTURE S or

s on prevailed upon his to withdraw himself from the king. dom m / , until such time as the stor should be overblown . u Had his heart been nengaged , he would have chose to

travel ; but at this period , when his whole soul was engross

for ed , and so violently agitated by his passion Aurelia, n othing but the fear of seeing the old gentleman run distract ed , would have induced him to desist from the pursuit of far that young lady , less quit the kingdom where she re s ided . ‘ h e Well then , gemmen , repaired to Harwich , where for f m he embarked Holland , ro whence he proceeded to w Brussels, here he procured a passport from the French of a king, by virtue which he tr velled to Marseilles , and there t for ook a tartan Genoa . The first letter Sir E verh ard re ceived from him was dated at Florence . Meanwhile the sur ’ geon s prognostic was not altogether verified . Mr Darnel did not die immediately of his wounds ; but he lingered a l in of ong time, as it were the arms death , and even partly r in all ecovered ; yet, probability , he will never be wholly r estored to the enjoyment of his health and is obliged every

- s ummer to attend the hot well at Bristol . As his wounds

to to began to heal , his hatred Mr Greaves seemed revive i now if w th augmented violence ; and he is , possible, more than ever determined against all reconciliation . f Mr Launcelot , a ter having endeavoured to amuse his n s of imaginatio with a succe sion curious objects , in a tour of Italy , took up his residence at a town called Pisa, and t f l f here el into a deep melancholy, rom which nothing could ’ rouse him but the news of his father s death . ‘ The old gentleman (God rest his soul) n ever held up his head after the departure of his darling Launcelot ; and the dangerous condition of Darnel kept up his apprehension t was f the of his rein orced by obstinate silence the youth , and of e re c ertain accounts his disorder d mind, which he had ceived from some of those persons who take pleasure in com of all municating disagreeable tidings . A complication t e co- e of t hes g rievances , operating with a sever fit the gou and r e f e which in few d ro t g av l, produced a ev r, a ays, b ugh rR T V 4 s LAUNCELO GRE A E s . 3

E verhard ft af Sir to his long home , a er he had settled his f airs with heaven and earth , and made his peace with God ’ and . ou if man I ll assure y , gemmen , he made a most ed y ing and christian end : he died regretted by all his neigh o b urs except Anthony , and might be said to be emb almed of m by the tears the poor, to who he was always a bounteous benefactor .

n ow a When the son , Sir Launcelot , came home , he p

e - pe red so meagre, wan , and hollow eyed , that the servants hardly knew their young master . His first care was to take s n of f w pos essio his ortune , and settle accounts with the ste w ffa ard ho had succeeded my father . These a irs be ing discussed , he spared no pains to get intelligence concernin g Miss Darnel ; and soon learned more of that young lady than he desired to know ; for it was become the common of n talk the country , that a match was agreed upon betwee ’ c of her and young Squire Sy amore , a gentleman a very e um great fortune . Thes tidings were probably confirmed own in der her hand , a letter which she wrote to Sir Launce the lot . The contents were never exactly known but to ff too parties themselves nevertheless , the e ects were visible ,

for f m one , ro that blessed moment , he spoke not word to any li ving creature for the space of three days ; but was of a seen sometimes to shed a flood te rs , and sometimes to

u of . a o burst o t into a fit laughing At l st he br ke silence , e and seemed to awake from his disorder . He became mor f of of e e ond than ever the exercise riding , and b gan to amus

himself again with acts of benevolence . One instance of his generosity and justice deserves to be

in or : ou the recorded brass marble y must know , gemmen , of was E ve rhard rector the parish lately dead , and Sir had

promised the presentation to another clergyman . In the

a on e me ntime, Sir Launcelot chancing Sunday to ride

a d f through a lane, perceived a horse s ddled and bridle , eed on of f s ing the side a ence ; and , ca ting his eyes around, beheld on the other side of the hedge an object lying extend ou of ed the ground, which he took to be the body a mur d i n o ered traveller . He forthwith al ghted and leaping i t 454: THE ADVE NTURES or

m an f a the field , descried a at ull length , wrapped in a gre t a coat , and writhing in gony . Approaching nearer, he f w as and ound it a clergyman , in his gown casse e . When

a ff a the he inquired into the c se, and o ered his assist nce , for declar stranger rose up , thanked him his courtesy , and ed that he was now very well . The knight , who thought was ih there something mysterious this incident , express ed a desire to kno w the cause of his rolling in the grass in that

a w a manner ; and the clergym n , who kne his person , m de f w no a . Y ou scruple in gr ti ying his curiosity must kno , ’ a I a of own for sir, s id he , serve the cur cy your parish which the late incumbent paid me twenty pounds a - year ; but this sum being scarce sufficient to maintain my wife and children , who are five in number, I agreed to read f f prayers in the a ternoon at another church , about our miles from hence ; and for this additional duty I receive ten pounds

: I f more as keep a horse, it was ormerly an agreeable ex ercis e rather than a toil ; but of late years I h ave been af d for I flicte with a rupture, which consulted the most emi n ent operators in the kingdom ; but I h ave no cause to th e ff of one of m rejoice in e ects their advice, though the now assured me I was completely cured . The malady is f more troublesome than ever, and o ten comes upon me so I am on f violently while horseback , that I am orced to of alight , and lie down upon the ground, until the cause ’ the disorder can for the time be reduced . Sir L auncelot not only condoled with him upon his mis fortune, but desired him to throw up the second cure , and

- f ow n he would pay him ten pounds a year out o his pocket . ‘ f ’ Your generosity con ounds me , good sir, replied the ‘ clergyman ; and yet I ought not to be surprised at any instance of benevolence in Sir Launcelot Greaves ; but I will

f of . I a t check the ulness my heart sh ll only observe , tha ff your good intention towards me can hardly take e ect . The h as gentleman , who is to succeed the late incumbent , given

a f me notice to quit the premises , as he h th provided a riend ’ ’

w for . ! of his o n the curacy What cried the knight, ur f does he mean to take yo bread rom you, without assign

46 THE ADVENTURES or and in a fe w days Mr Jenkins was put in possession of his f nefi ce o o . be , to the inexpressible jy the congregation and Hitherto every thing went right , every unprejudiced ’ person commended the knight s conduct ; but in a little time his generosity seemed to overle ap the bounds of disere t ion , and even in some cases might be thought tending to f ’ o . a breach the king s peace For example, be compelled , ’ vi et a r mis f a of , a rich armer s son to m rry the daughter a

f had d . cottager, whom the young ellow debauche In d of a eed it seems there was a promise marri ge in the case,

though it could not be legally a scertained . The wench

on l n d took dismal y , a her parents had recourse to Sir for a Launcelot, who , sending the delinquent , expostul ted with him severely on the injury he had done the young a f n woman , and exhorted him to s ve her li e and reputatio

f a by per orming his promise, in which case he (Sir L unce

lot) would give her three hundred pounds to her portion . Whether the farmer thought there was something interested

ff or in this uncommon o er, was a little elevated by the con ’ s ciousnes s of f his ather s wealth , he rejected the proposal a and a if w h with rustic disd in , s id , so be as how the enc

would swear the child to him , he would settle it with the ’ parish ; but declared , that no squire in the land should hi oblige m to buckle with such a cracked pitcher . This

for resolution , however, he could not maintain ; , in less than two hours the rector of the parish had directions to f publish the banns, and the ceremony was per ormed in due

course . ‘ N ow of , though we know not precisely the nature the

fa e arguments that were used with the rmer , we may conclud

of for f w ul they were the minatory species , the young ello co d

not for an fa , some time , look y person in the ce .

The knight acted as the general redresser of grievances .

If a woman complained to him of being ill - treated by her f of husband , he first inquired into the oundation the com if f f plaint, and he ound it just , catechised the de endant . If ff the warning had no e ect, and the man proceeded to of V n of fresh acts iolence, then his judge took the executio SI R. L C E L G E A V AUN OT R E s . 7

h in own and - i t e law his hand , horse wh pped the party .

f in - a Thus he involved himsel several law suits, that dr ined of m him of pretty large sums oney . He seemed particula r ly incensed at the lea st appearance of oppression and sup ported divers poor ten ants against the extortion of their land

o d . Na n r l r s y, he has been known to travel two hu d ed miles

ff a of as a volunteer, to o er his assistance in the c use a per

on b e s , who , he heard , was ychican ry and oppression wrong ed of a considerable estate . He accordingly took h er under

is l as a t h protection , re ieved her distresses , and w a vast ex pe nse in bringing the suit to a determinatio n ; which being nf r u avourable to his client , he resolved to b ing an appeal in - of a ul a e x u to the house lords , and cert inly wo d h ve ec t d o if n ot e his purp se, the gentlewoman had died in the in ’ terim . i 0 b At th s period, Ferret interrupted the narrator, by wa s s erving, that the said Greaves a commo n nuisance, and on e of ought to be prosecuted the statut bar retry . ’ ‘ ‘ n No, sir, resumed Mr Clarke, he can ot be convict of r s a e ed barret y, unles he is always at vari nce with som or of a e pe rson other, a mover suits and qu rr ls, who disturbs

f e the peace under colour of law . There or he is in the in dictment commun is ma l actor caif mn ia tor et s e styled , ef , u , ’ i n a tor Zitium m .

’ ’ Pr ythee truce with thy definitions , cr ied Ferret, and

. T make an end of thy long winded story . hou hast no title be so n to if t to tedious , u til thou comest have a co in the cour ’ of common pleas .

Tom u . e smiled contemptuo s , and had just op ned his mouth to proceed , when the company were disturbed by a hideous of fr repetition groans , that seemed to issue om the chamber ’ n i n which the body of the squire was dep o sited . The la d l f lady snatched the cand e, and ran into the room , ollowed by the doctor and the rest ; and this acc ident naturally sus.

In d pended the narration . like manner , we shall conclu e the a a chapter, that the re der may have time to bre the, and digest what he has already heard . 48 THE ADVENTURE S or ‘

CHAPTER V.

In which this r eca itula i n dr a ws a p t o to clos e .

W HE N the landlady entered the room from whence the ’ f u a groaning proceeded , she o nd the squire lying on his b ck , ’ of - a under the dominion the night m re , which rode him so

a n ot a hard , th t he only gro ned and snorted , but the sweat

of ran down his face in streams . The perturbation his

n c as and f brai , o c ioned by this pressure , the right he had

a a a a in l tely undergone , g ve rise .to very terrible dre m , h f which he fancied imsel apprehended for a robbery . The

r of a h was horro the g llows was strong upon him , w en he suddenly awaked by a violent shock from th e doctor ; an d . a v f a the comp ny broke in upon his iew , still perverted by e r ,

and bedimmed by slumber . His dream was now realized by a full persuasion that he was surrounded by the constable e f and his gang . The first object that present d itsel to his

d r e w of iso d red vie , was the figure Ferret , who might very

w a s for fi of law : ell have p sed the nisher the against him , ff f w fo r o a as . there re , the fi st e ort his desp ir directed He

a u th e an d a st rted pon floor, seizing a cert in utensil , that

‘ a a a a t sh ll be n meless , l unched it the misanthrope with such

v a had a a a iolence , th t , he not c utiously slipped his he d side, it is su pposed tha t a ctual fi re would have been produced f from the collisio n o two such hard and solid substances . f f All uture mischie was prevented , by the strength and

of n agility Captai Crowe , who , springing upon the assail O ant , pinioned his arms to his sides , crying , damn ye, ’ if ou for n a y are ru ning head, I ll soon bring you to your ’ bearings . ’ a f The squire, thus restr ined , soon recollected himsel ,

a and gazing upon every individu l in the apartment , ’ a Wounds s id he, I ve had an ugly dream . I thought , for all the world , they were carrying me to Newgate , and that there was Jack Ketch coom to vetch me before my ’ i ta m . ra 4 s LAUNCELOT c a na vns . 9

F erret , who was the person he had thus distinguished, e of m yeing him with a look the ost emphatic malevolence , r for m of ew told him , it was ve y natural a knave to drea N gate ; and that he hoped to see the day when this dream f would be ound a true prophesy, and the commonwealth purged of all such rogues and vagabonds : but it could not t con scien be expec ed , that the vulgar would be honest and

r ofli ac tious, while the great were distinguished by p g y and ’ corruption . The squi re was disposed to make a practical reply to this insinuation , when Mr Ferret prudently with f f f w o drew himsel rom the scene o altercation . The good man of the house persuaded his antagonist to take out his

' na u him a of p, ass ring that the eggs and bacon , with mug

e l f . xcellent ale, shou d be orthcoming in due season The aff f air being thus ortunately adjusted , the guests returned e to the kitchen , and Mr Clarke resum d his story to this f eflect .

’ You ll please to take notice, gemmen , that, besides the ’ instances I have allege d of Sir Launcelot s extravagant of benevolence, I could recount a great many others the s ul ame nature, and partic arly the laudable vengeance he f ’ took o a country lawyer . I m sorr y that any such mis f of creant should be long to the pro ession . He was clerk the a n ssize, gemme , in a certain town , not a great way distant and having a blank pardon left by the j udges for som e cr iminals whose cases were attended with favourable circum u of one stances, he wo ld not insert the name who could not procure a guinea for the fee ; and the poor fello w who had ’ o - s out of w only st le an hour gla s a shoemaker s windo , was f actually executed , a ter a long respite, during which he had e c been p rmitted to go abroad, and earn his subsisten e by his daily labour .

f of of Sir Launcelot , being in ormed this barbarous act

i on . avarice , and hav ng some ground that bordered the law ’ er s l him in y estate , not on y rendered contemptible and f f on a amous , by exposing him as o ten as they met the gr nd of jury , but also, being vested with the property the great t ithes, proved such a troublesom e neighbour, sometimes by

Vol. V D . 50 THE ADVENTURES or“

making waste among his hay and corn , sometimes by in :

a for w as s tituting suits ag inst him petty trespasses , that he a fairly obliged to quit his h bitation , and remove into another

of p art the kingdom . A ll these avocations could not divert Sir Launcelot from

u of a the exec tion wild scheme , which has carried his ex t rava ance h f if g to suc a pitch , that I am a raid , a statute — you understand me , gemmen were sued , the jury would ’ I don t choose to explain myself further on this circumstance .

a Gre aves bur - a Be that as it may , the serv nts at y h ll were not a confoun ded when a f fa little , their m ster took down rom the mily

of armoury a complete suit armour , which had belonged to

fa his greatg rand ther, Sir Marmaduke Greaves , a great war

his f of n . rior, who lost li e in the service his ki g This ar

mour being scoured , repaired, and altered , so as to fit Sir ’ Launcelot , a certain knight , whom I don t choose to name

a he com os man tis bec use I believe cannot be proved p , came on on down , seemingly a visit , with two attendants ; and , of f of the eve the estival St George , the armour being

carried into the chapel , Sir Launcelot (Lord have mercy

a upon us remained all night in that dism l place alone ,

and without light , though it was confidently reported all

over the country , that the place was haunted by the spirit

of - a - who a his great gre t uncle , , being lun tic, had cut his t f f on hroat rom ear to ear, and was ound dead the com ’ a munion t ble .

It was observed , that, while Mr Clarke rehearsed this

to a circumstance , his eyes began st re , and his teeth to chat on ter ; while Dolly, whose looks were fixed invariably this

- narrator, growing pale , and hitching her joint stool nearer ‘ f — Moother the chimney , exclaimed, in a rightened tone, , ’ mooth er th e of n , in neame God , look to u ! how a quakes ! ’ a s if ’ I m a precious saoul , a looks as a saw something . Tom f orced a smile , and thus proceeded .

a While Sir L uncelot tarried within the chapel , with the

doors all locked , the other knight stalked round and round i t on h d f the outside, wit his sword rawn , to the terror o d s s s iver per on who were present at the ceremony . As soon s rn 1 LAUNCELOT GRE AVE S. 5

one of as day broke, he opened the doors , and going in to

e a for Sir Launc lot , re d a book some time, which we did

‘ suppose to be the constitutions of knight - errantry : then a we h rd a loud slap , which echoed through the whole

Chapel , and the stranger pronounce, with an audible and f d t t n o Go S . e S . solem voice, In the name , Micha l , and —be fa f for George, I dub thee knight ith ul , bold , and ’ u . Y ou i i n h a an ff t nate cannot mag e , gemmen , w t e ect this

strange ceremony had upon the people who were assembled . z at one They ga ed another in silent horror, and when Sir n f Lau celot came orth completely armed , took to their heels h i i f in t e rec tatl on . a body , and fled with utmost p p I mysel was overturned in the crowd ; and this was the case ‘ with ’ that very individual person who now serves him as a squire .

f a He was so rightened, th t he could not rise, but lay roaring him in such a manner, that the knight came up , and gave

a a thwack with his l nce across the shoulders , which roused

own f own him with a vengeance . For my part , I reely I was not unmoved at seeing such a figure come stalking out of a church in the grey of the morning ; for it recalled to

of a my remembrance the idea the ghost in H mlet , which I

en - had se acted in Drury lane , when I made my first trip to

of . London , and I had not yet got rid the impression

Sir Launcelot, attended by the other knight , proceeded to f m own w the stable, ro whence with his hands , he dre f one of orth his best horses, a fine mettlesome sorrel , who

ad . In h got blood in him , ornamented with rich trappings

a trice, the two knights , and the other two strangers, who

now a . ppeared to be trumpeters , were mounted Sir Launce ’ lot s armour was lacquered black ; and on his shield was

n in represented the moo her first quarter, with th e motto Im lant or bem p . The trumpets having sounded a charge, God the stranger pronounced with a loud voice, preserve this gallant knight in all his honourable achievements ; and may he long continue to press the sides of his now adopt h Bronzomarte 0 ed steed, whic I denominate , h ping that he — f a Bri liadoro or will rival in swi tness and spirit , B yardo, g , any other steed of past or present chivalry After another 52 THE A DVENTU RE S on

of f t i flourish the trumpets , all our clapped spurs to he r

a and horses , Sir L uncelot couching his lance , galloped to and fro if h ad a , as they been mad , to the terror and stonish

of ment all the spectators . ‘ What should have induced our knight to choose this ’ for s for of here man his quire, is not easy to determine ; ,

h ouse w as all the servants about the , he the least likely either

a n i . to please his m ster, or e gage in such an undertak ng His n Crabshaw ame is Timothy , and he acted in the capacity

f - in v rh rd f o whipper to Sir E e a . He a terwards married the

of a a daughter a poor cott ger, by whom he has sever l child

ren , and was employed about the house as a ploughman To f of hu and carter . be sure , the ellow has a dry sort mour about him ; but he was universally hated among the s for u ervants, his ab sive tongue and perverse disposition , f him for fel which o ten brought into trouble ; , though the e low is as strong as an elephant , he has no more courag —I n naturally than a chicken say aturally , because, since

of - a has his being a member knight err ntry , he done some

things that appear altogether incredible and preternatural .

n f the Timothy kept such a bawli g, a ter he had received f on blow rom Sir Launcelot, that every body the field thought of if fi ve some his bones were broken ; and his w e , with t o bantlings , came sniveling the knight, who ordered her

to send the husband directly to his house . Tim accordingly

went thither, groaning piteously all the way , creeping along

with his body bent like a Greenland canoe . As soon as he r d w as ente e the court , the outward door shut ; and Sir d Launcelot coming own stairs with a horsewhip in his hand , asked what was the matter with him tha t he complained so P i coma dismally To this question he repl ed , that it was as

- for man n mon as duck weed in his country , a to complain whe ’ ’ his bones were broke . What should have broke your bones P ’

. a said the knight I c nnot guess , answered the other, unless it was that delicate switch th at your honour in your ’ mad pranks handled so dexterously upon my carcase . Sir for Launcelot then told him , there was nothing so good a

u as s n h in . br ise, a weat, a d e had the remedy his hand

54 THE ADVENTURE S OF

Crabshaw for of th e sanity in the said ; , all the horses in

w as and stable, Gilbert the most stubborn vicious , and had often like to have done mischief to Timothy while he drove

. out of the cart and plough When he was humour, he would kick and plunge as if the devil was in him . He once thrust

C rabshaw of - into the middle a quickset hedge, where he was terribly torn ; another time he canted him over his hea d into a i a qu gmire , where he stuck w th his heels up , and must

if h ad a have perished, people not been passing th t way ; a third time he s eized him in the stable with his teeth by the

of l him off t rim the bel y , and swung the ground , to the grea ’ d of f if n ot anger his li e ; and I ll be hanged , it was owing ' to Gilbert Crabshaw . , that was now thrown into the river ’ Thus mounted and accoutred , the knight and his squire out o off f the set n their first excursion . They turned rom

m a com on highway , and tr velled all that day without meet

an : in of ing y thing worthy recounting but , the morning ‘ The fa a . the second day , they were voured with an dventure 0 u hunt was upon a common thro gh which they travelled , and

f l f fox Crabshaw the hounds were in u l cry a ter a , when , w t n e prompted by his o n mischievous disposi ion , and of gleeting the order his master, who called aloud to him to f desist , rode up to the hounds , and crossed them at ull gal

. a far off lop The huntsm n , who was not , running towards ’ a h the squire, bestowed upon his he d such a memento wit f his pole , as made the landscape dance be ore his eyes and f in a twinkling he was surrounded by all the oxhunters, who plied their whips about his ears with infinite agility .

a a of Sir L uncelot adv ncing at an easy pace, instead assisting ’ to the disastrous squire, exhorted his adversaries punish him for severely his insolence, and they were not slow in obey w f ing this injunction . Crabsha finding himsel in this dis

a n o agreeable situation , and th t there was succour to be ex

ected f a on e p rom his m ster, whose prowess he had depend d , him grew desperate, and , clubbing his whip , laid about f with great ury , wheeling about Gilbert , who was not idle ; for of f for he , having received some the avours intended his and rider, both bit with teeth , and kicked with his heel s ; ra s LAUNCELOT GR E AVE S . 55 at his the r last made way through ring that enci cled him , f ’ though not be ore he had broke the huntsman s leg, lamed one of on k f o the best horses the field, and illed hal a score f

the hounds . C rabshaw f of f not , seeing himsel clear the ray , did tarry to of of hi take leave his master, but made the most s way to

Greavesbur - y hall , where he appeared hardly with any vestige of h fa i the human countenance , so muc had be been de ced n fa a this adventure . He did not il to r ise a great clamour

wa n against Sir Launcelot , whom he cursed as a co rd in plai t but erms, swearing he would never serve him another day on f or was whether he altered his mind cooler re lection , lec tured f own h e by his wi e , who well understood her interest, h of rose wit the cock , and went again in quest Sir Launce

f ou of lot, whom he ound the eve a very hazardous enter

pri se . of h In the midst a lane , the knight happened to meet wit of f u a party about orty recr its , commanded by a serjeant , m a corporal , and a drummer , which last had his dru slung at his back ; but seeing such a strange figure mounted on a

- an l a to high spirited horse, he was seized with inc in tion a hi divert his company . With this view , he br ced s drum ,

a to a of and hanging it in its proper position , beg n beat point of Bronzomarte e war, advancing under the very nose ; whil the we corporal exclaimed , Damn my eyes , who have

ot ? old f the g here King Stephen , rom the horse armoury in ’ or f w a at l s tower, the ello th t rides armed my ord mayor show ? ’ The knight’s steed seemed at least as well pleased

of r f with the sound the d um , as were the recruits that ollowed it ; and signified his satisfaction in some curv e ting s and cap riole s h d ad , whic did not at all iscompose the rider, who, ’ f a ou dressing himsel to the serj e nt, Friend , said he, y u ought to teach your drummer better manners . I wo ld chastise the fellow on the spot for his insolence ; were it not ’ ’ t out of the respect I bear to his majesty s service . Respec ’ f a d e mine a cried this erocious commander, wh t, y

think to frighten us with your pewter piss - pot on your skull,

and - ? out of your lacquered pot lid on your arm get the way, 56 THE ADVENTURES or

’ or r and be d d , I ll raise with my halbert such a clutte ’ upon your target , that you ll remember it the longest day ’

. a Crabshaw a n you have to live At that inst nt, rriving upo ’ a . Gilbert, So, r scal , said Sir Launcelot, you are returned ’ ’ and a - Go beat in th t scoundrel s drum head . ’ of ff The squire, who saw no weapons o ence about the d e rumm r but a sword, which he hoped the owner durst not d w d f a ra , and being resolve to exert himsel in m king atone ' m for his ent his desertion , advanced to execute master s l f orders ; but Gilbert, who iked not the noise, re used to pro ’ a i n l c ed the ordinary way . Then the squire turning his tai

and. to the drummer, he advanced in a retrograde motion ,

one of a. with kick his heels , not only broke the drum into

a a h thous nd pieces, but l id the drummer in the mire , wit

w - a a such a blo upon his hip bone, that he h lted all the d ys f f fi u f o . dis com t re o his li e The recruits , perceiving the their

thems elv w ith leader, armed e s stones ; the serjeant raised

of f i e his halbert in a posture de ence , and immed ately a sever

w h ad hi . Crabsha s action ensued By this time, drawn sword , and began to lay about him like a devil incarnate ; of but , in a little time, he was saluted by a volley stones on e of out of t ,which knocked two his grinders , and brough

w f a him to the earth , here he had like to have ound no quar for ter ; the whole company crowded about him , with their cudgels brandished ; and perhaps he owed his preservation to their pressing so hard that they hindered one another from h a u sing t eir we pons .

Sir Launcelot seeing , with indignation , the unworthy ’ rn treatment his squire had received , and sco ing to stain his

a of a of in l nce with the blood plebeians , inste d couching it

e and f on e the rest, seiz d it by the middle , etching blow at a be the serje nt , broke in twain the hal rt which he had raised

- ff f r f e ncoun as a quarter sta o his de ence . The second stroke tered his pate , which being the hardest part about him , sus tained the shock without damage ; but the third , lighting on his ribs , he honoured the giver with immediate prostra tion . The general being thus overthrown , Sir Launcelot f of Cr abs haw n advanced to the relie , and handled his weapo s rn LAUNCEL OT G REAVE S. 7

ff of dis s o e ectually , that the whole body the enemy were f on e e abled or routed , be ore cudgel had touched the carcas ’ of f . for of the allen squire As the corporal , instead standing

ff h ad by his commanding o icer, he overleaped the hedge, and run to the constable of an adjoining village for assist

f Crabs haw . ance . Accordingly , be ore could be properly re

ffi and mounted , the peace o cer arrived with his posse ; by ’ the corporal was charged with Sir Launcelot and his squire as two highwaymen . The constable , astonished at the mar of of the tial figure the knight , and intimidated at sight

h ad f havoc he made , contented himsel with standing at a c of ffi distan e , displaying the badge his o ce , and reminding ’ th e k night that he represented his majesty s person . man in Sir Launcelot, seeing the poor great agitation , n f not a th e assured him that his desig was to en orce, to viol te ’ laws of his country ; and that he and his squire would at mean tim him of the , e tend to the next justice peace ; but , in , ffi he, in his turn , charged the peace o cer with the serjeant

f . and drummer, who had begun the ray f s hant The justice had been a petti ogger, and was a c p a a to nobleman in the neighbourhood, who had post at

c . f ourt He there ore thought he should oblige his patron , by shewing his respect for the milita ry ; and treated our knight with the most boorish insolence ; but refused to admit h im h ad s urr endered all into his house, until he his wea ff pons of o ence to the constable . Sir Launcelot and his ’ s f a quire being ound the ggressors , the justice insisted upon out if making their mittimus , they did not find bail imme diately ; and could hardly be prevailed upon to agree that of they should remain at the house the constable, who being nblican f a p , undertook to keep them in sa e custody , until

a the knight could write to his steward . Me nwhile he was bound over to the peace ; and the serjeant with his drummer w ere told they had a good action against him for assault and

‘ infor matidn or . battery , either by indictment f of law They were not, however , so ond the as the justice

a in fa seemed to be . Their sentiments had t ken a turn vour of of Sir Launcelot, during the course his examination ; by 58 THE ADVE NTURES OF which it appeared that he was really a gentleman of fashion and fortune ; and they res blve d to compromise the affair

of . th e without the intervention his worship Accordingly , ’ a t serjeant repaired to the const ble s house , where the knigh f f was lodged ; and humbled himsel be ore his honour, pro

a a if his testing, with m ny oaths , th t , he had known qua ’ lit a y, he would have be ten the drummer s brains about his for ears , presuming to give his honour or his horse the least f f w f disturbance ; tho the ello , he believed , was su ficiently i punished n being a cripple for life . ‘ Sir Launcelot admitted of his apologies ; and taking compassion on the fellow who h ad suffered so severely for

f for a a his olly , resolved to provide his m inten nce . Upon

of a the representation the parties to the justice , the warr nt was next day discharged ; and the knight returned to his own u house , attended by the serjeant and the dr mmer mormted on ft horseback , the recruits being le to the cor ’ poral s charge . ’ The halberdier found the good effects of Sir Launcelot s liberality ; and his companion being rendered unfit for his ’ of majesty s service , by the heels Gilbert , is now entertained

- Greav esbur for f . at y hall , where he will probably remain li e ‘ for Cr absh aw As , his master gave him to understand, that if he did n ot think him pretty well chastised for his pre n in sumptio and flight , by the discipline he had undergone two out of the last adventures , he would turn him his service with disgrace . Timothy said he believed it would be the greatest favour he could do him to turn him out of a service in which he knew he should be rib- roasted every day , and murdered at last .

In this situation were things at Greave sbury- hall about a d month ago , when I crossed the country to Ferrybri ge, where I met my uncle : probably this is the first incident of their second excursion ; for the distance between this here house and Sir Launcelot’s estate does not exceed fourscore ’ or ninety miles . s m LA UN CE L ' ‘ S OI G REAVE . 59

CHAPTER VI .

I n which the r ea der will p er cei ve tha t i n some cases madnes s n i s ca tchi g .

ME of a Clarke having made an end his narrative , the sur geon thanked him for the entertainment he had received ; and Mr Ferret shrugged up his sh o ulders in silent di sappro b i at on . for a h s As C ptain Crowe, who used at suc pause of to pour in a broadside dismembered remarks , linked toge

a - for ther like ch in shot, he spoke not a syllable some time ;

a f a t a but , lighting resh pipe the c ndle , began to roll such voluminous clouds of smoke as in an instant filled the whole f m apartment , and rendered himsel invisible to the whole ce

. f f w pany Though he thus shrouded himsel rom their vie , did not f he long remain concealed rom their hearing . They w first heard a strange dissonant cackle, which the doctor kne

- f x l to be a sea laugh , and this was ollowed by an eager e c a

of a mation rare p stime , strike my yards and top masts ’ ’ - I ve a good mind—why shouldn t—many a losing voyage ’ — I ve smite my taffrel but I wool fu By this time he had relaxed so much in his migation , that the tip of his nose and on e eye r e - appeared ; and as he f f had drawn his wig orwards , so as to cover his whole ore f n ow head, the igure that saluted their eyes was much more ferocious and terrible than the fire - breathing chimera of the f a . a ncients Notwithst nding this dread ul appearance , there no on an was indignation in his heart, but , the contrary , f agreeable curiosity , which he was determined to grati y . f ’ ’ Addressing himsel to Mr Fillet, pr ythee , doctor ,

’ s 3 aid he, can st tell , whether a man , without being rated ’ ’ ’ or or lord a baron , what dy e call um , d ye see, mayn t ’ t of f ? a ! ake to the highway in the way a rolic, d ye see ad d ’ for own my part, brother, I m resolved as how to cruise a — ’ bit in the way of an arrant if so be as I can t at once be a u commander, mayh p I may be bore pon the books as a f ’ ’ fi or . petty o cer the like , d ye see 60 TH E ADVE NTURES or

‘ ’ Now f ! a , the Lord orbid cried Cl rke , with tears in his ’ a a eyes , I d r ther see you de d than brought to such a dilem ’ ’ ’ m a . for Mayhap thou would st, answered the uncle ’ t h —aha ! en , my lad , there would be some picking do st thou ’ t i ? Tom him p me the traveller, my boy assured he scorned ’ any such mercenary views I am only concerned, said he , ‘ that you should take any step th at might tend to the dis grace of yourself or your family ; and I again s ay I had ra ther die than live to see you reckoned an y other ways than ’ — compos . Die and be d d ! you sha mbling half timber " ’ e d of son a cried the choleric Crowe , do st talk to — me of keeping a reckoning and compass I could keep a an d f reckoning , box my compass , long enough be ore thy — keel- stone was laid Sam Crowe is not come here to ask thy ’ ’ counsel how to steer his course . Lord , sir, resumed the h w l — nep e , consider what people wil say all the world will ’ ‘ ’ ou . at Tom think y mad Set thy heart ease , , cried the ’

I ll a . seaman , have a trip to and ag in in this here channel ! for f of n Mad what then , I think my part one hal the natio — — ’ is mad and the other not very sound I don t see why I han’t as good a right to be mad as another man ’ was a if as I s ying, I d be bound to you , you would direct me where I can buy that same tackle that an arrant must

a for of - we r as the matter the long pole, headed with iron , ’ a - I d never desire better than good boat hook , and I could make a special good t arget of that there tin sconce that holds — the candle mayhap any blacksmith will hammer me a soul] ’ s ee out of cap , dy e , an old brass kettle ; and I can call my

of Mu ti . horse by the name my ship , which was f The sur geon was on e of those wags who can laugh in

w ardl a of y, without exhibiting the le st outward mark mirth

r f a h o satis action . He at once perceived the musement whic

f of a might be drawn rom this strange disposition the s ilor , together with the most likely means which could be used to f f divert him rom such an extravagant pursuit . He there ore

one of fa tipped Clarke the wink with side his ce, while the ad other was very gravely turned to the captain , whom he

d ff f r hen e ff d ressed to this e ect . It is not a from c to She iel ,

693 THE ADVENTURES or

In order to concert the previous measures, without being

a f a a overhe rd , these con ederates retired with c ndle and lan

a scarce thorn into the stable ; and their b cks were turned , when Captain Crowe came in loaded with pieces of the ’ had f knight s armour, which he conveyed rom the apart

of a h ad f f a ment Sir L uncelot , whom he le t ast sleep . Understanding that the rest of the company were gone

for a f out a moment, he could not resist the inclin tion he elt a of communicating his intention to the l ndlady , who , with

a her daughter , had been too much eng ged in preparing ’ bsh w s w of Cra a supper, to kno the purport their conver ’ a f of a a sation . The good wom n , being in ormed the c pt in s a n al e a ll i h i n th e h a design to rem i on n g t c urch , beg n to

oppose it with all her rhetoric . She said it was setting his f Maker at defiance, and a wil ul running into temptation . She assured him that all the country knew that the church was haunted by spirits and hobgoblins ; that lights had been ‘ seen in every corner of it ; an d a tall woman in white had one night appeared upon the top of the tower ; that dread f e f ful shrieks were o ten heard to com rom the south aisle, where a murdered man had been buried ; that she herself had seen the cross on the steeple all afire ; and on e evening a s she passed ahorseback close by the stile at the entrance

- a a into the church y rd, the horse stood still , swe ting and

r e trembling, and had no power to proceed until she had ’ peated the Lord s prayer . These remarks made a strong impression on the im agin

of f if had ation Crowe, who asked , in some con usion , she

a ? no got th t same prayer in print She made answer, but

a - f f an d u reaching the pr yer book rom a shel , turning p the f lea , put it into his hand ; then the captain , having adjust

a or ed his spectacles, began to re d , rather spell aloud , with

a and f equal e gerness solemnity . He had re reshed his me ’

,m w ory so ell as to remember the whole , when the doctor, v returning with his companions, ga e him to understand

of that he had procured the key the chancel , where he m ight watch his armour as well as in the body of the

nd . church , a that he was ready to conduct him to the spot s rn L E L S AUNC OT GREAVE . 63

Crowe was not now quite so forward as he had appeared before to achieve this adventure : he began to start objec. tions with respect to the borrowed armour ; he wanted to ’ f of a of stipulate the com orts a c nn flip , and a candle s end , during his vigil ; and hinted something of the damage he m s f of d ight su tain rom your malicious imps arkness .

of The doctor told him , the constitutions chivalry abso lutel o f y required that he sh uld be le t in the dark alone, and, f h i n i asting, to spend the nig t p ous meditations ; but if he f had any ears which disturbed his conscience , he had mii ch

of - better desist, and give up all thoughts knight errantry, which could not consist with the least shadow of apprehen

. a sion The captain , stung by this rem rk , replied not a w word, but, gathering up the armour into a bundle , thre

on out for of a it his back , and set the place prob tion , pre

ceded by Clarke with the lanthorn . When they arrived at

- f the church , Fillet , who had procured the key rom the

sexton , who was his patient , opened the door, and conduct d our of e novice into the middle the chancel , where the ar n mour was deposited ; the bidding Crowe draw his hanger, c h e of as ommitted him to t protection Heaven , suring him or he would come back , and find him either dead alive by

- f m remair n of day break , and per or the i g part the cere him mony . So saying, he and the other associates shook f n hy , the hand , and took their leave, a ter the surgeo had tilt u of ed p the lanthorn to take a View his visage, which was

pale and haggard . f th e w a s looked Be ore door upon him , he called aloud , — ’ ! . hilloa doctor, hip another word , d ye see They f w f orthwith returned to kno what he wanted , and ound him ‘ ’ already in a sweat . Hark ye, brother, said he, wiping

f do how one ma his ace , I suppose as y pass away the time ’ or - in whistling the Black joke , singing Black ey d Susan , ’ ’

r f . o some such sorrow ul ditty By no means , cried the the a doctor, such pastimes are neither suitable to pl ce nor

w . If the occasion , hich is altogether a religious exercise ot or you have g any psalms by heart , you may sing a stave ’ Tom two, or repeat the Doxology . Would I had Lave 64‘ THE ADVE NTURES or

’ r our m ick here , replied noviciate , he would sing you a — ’ thems like a sea - mew a had been a clerk ashore—many s f ’ ’ f the time, and o ten I ve given him a rope s end or singing

’ psalms in the larboard w atch - VVould I had hired the s on — of a b to have taught me a cast of his office but it can ’ not —if a a be holp, brother we c n t go l rge, we must haul upon — ’ ’ if a a . a wind , as the saying is we c n t sing , we must pr y

a a f d The comp ny ag in le t him to his devotion , and returne

th - s of to e public hou e, in order to execute the essential part their project .

CHAPTER VII.

I n whi ch the kn i ht r es ume hi s i m r ta n g s p o ce .

DOC TOR FILLET having borrowed a couple of sheets from

a and Tom the l ndlady , dressed the misanthrope Clarke in

a f fe w of ghostly app rel , which was rein orced by a drops ’ h f a on f liquid p osphorus , rom Ferret s vi l , rubbed the ore

of . heads the two adventurers Thus equipped , they return u h ed to the ch rch with their conductor, who entered wit them softly at an aisle which was opposite to a pl ace where the novi ce kept watch . They stole unperceived through the body of the church ; and though it w as so dark that

a they could not distinguish the c ptain with the eye , they

of as a an d heard the sound his steps , he w lked backwards f on a h orwards the p vement wit uncommon expedition , and an ejaculation now and then escaped in a murmur from his lips . The triumvirate having taken their station with a large

in f pew their ront , the two ghosts uncovered their heads ,

of which , by help the phosphorus , exhibited a pale and

a a lambent fl me , extremely dism l and ghastly to the view in then Ferret, a squeaking tone , exclaimed , Samuel Crowe ! S amuel Crowe The captain hearing himself ac costed in this manner, at such a time, and in such a place, replied, hilloa and, turning his eyes towards the quar s ra LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 65

te r th e whence voice seemed to proceed , beheld the terrible

. no a i apparition This sooner s luted his V ew, than his ha ir h is bristled up , knees began to knock , and his teeth to ch at

a of ter, while he cried aloud , in the n me God , where are ’ ? a you bound , ho To this hail the misanthrope nswered , we are the spirits of thy grandmother Jane and thy aunt ’ Bridget . ’ of e At mention thes names , Crowe s terrors began to give

to his and e a way resentment, he pronounc d in quick tone ’ of a a ? surprise, mixed with indign tion , wh t d ye want ’ ’ ’

? - ? what d ye want what d ye want , ho The spirit replied , ’

are of fa . c we sent to warn thee thy te From when e, ’ ? a w ho cried the capt in , whose choler had by this time ell ’ m ’ n f a . a a igh triumphed over his e r Fro he ven , s id the f our . o a voice Ye lie , ye b s hell did novice excl im ,

for a out of fa ye are damned he ving me my right , five ’

a a f r . . thom and h l by the lead , in burning b imstone Don t

, — I see the blue flames come out of your h awse holes may hap you may be the devil himself for aught I know—but I ’ ’ —I d e trust in the Lord , d ye see never disrated a kinsman , y ’ ’ s ee so of — on e , don t come along side me put about th oth r ’ ’ ac d e — ou for t k, y see y need not clap hard a weather, you ll ’ soon get to hell again with a flowing sail . S o saying, he had recourse to his Paternoster ; but per c n out eivi g the apparitions approach , he thundered , avast, ’ off of or f of f avast , sheer , ye babes hell , I ll be oul your ore ’ - f lights . He accordingly sprung orwards with his hanger, and very probably would have set the spirits on their way

h ad fa in to the other world , he not llen over a pew the dark , f a and entangled himsel so much among the benches , th t he could not immediately recover his footing . The triumvirate took this opportunity to retire and such was the precipita

of i n tion Ferret his retreat , that he encountered a post , by which hi s right eye sustained considerable damage ; a cir cumstance which induced him to inveigh bitterly against

own f of a his olly , as well as the impertinence his comp nions , who had inveigled him into such a troublesome adventure . Neither he nor Clarke could be prevailed upon to revisit V l o . V. E 66 THE ADVENT URES or

t f ‘ the novice . The doc or himsel thought his dis eas e was

a own h desper te , and, mounting his horse , returned to his a

bitation .

- Ferret, finding all the beds in the public house were occu

f e a pied , composed himsel to sl ep in a Windsor ch ir at th e chimney corner ; and Mr Clarke , whose disposition was

on extremely amorous , resolved to renew his practices the

f h a heart o Dolly . He d reconnoitred the apartments in ’ which the bodies of the knight and his squire were deposit

of - ed , and discovered close by the top the stair case a sort of or a closet hovel , just large enough to contain a truckle f bed , which , rom some other particulars , he supposed to be

- of the bed chamber his beloved Dolly , who had by this time

her of retired to repose . Full this idea , and instigated by

of a f the demon desire, Mr Thom s crept so tly up stairs , and ,

f a of e li ting the l tch the closet door , his heart b gan to p alpi tate with joyous expectation ; but before he could breathe

ff of s the gentle e usions his love , the supposed damsel tarted U and p , , seizing him by the collar with an Herculean gripe , ‘ ’ of C rabsh aw for uttered , in the voice , it wan t nothing ’ of t that I dreamed Newgate, sirrah ; but I d have thee o w ’ kno , an arrant squire is not to be robbed by such a ped ’ dlin f — h owld g thie as thee here I ll thee vast , and the devil were in thy doublet help ! m urder ! vire ! help for a a lf It was impossible Mr Cl rke to diseng ge himse , and equally impra cticable to speak in his own Vindication ; s o i f th that here he stood trembl ng and hal throttled, until e

a whole house being larmed , the landlady and her ostler ran up stairs with a candle . When the light rendered object s

an a a on visible , equal stonishment prev iled all sides Crab w f u of e n sha was con o nded at sight Mr Clark , whose perso r him f he well knew ; and, eleasing instantly rom his grasp , ‘ cried he, I believe as how this hause is — haunted who thought to meet with Meas ter Laawyer Clarke h ’ d far f . at midnig t, and so rom hoam The landla y could not comprehend the meaning of this encounter ; nor could Tom conceive how Crabs haw had transported himself thi f m s aw re ther rom the roo below, in which he him quietly 67 s ra LAUNCELOT GREAVE S .

n posed . Yet nothing was more easy tha to explain this mystery the apartment below was the chamber which the hostess and her daughter reserved for their own convenience ; ’ a n d thi s particular having been intimated to the squire while b he was at supper, he had resigned the bed quietly , and een

Tom r e e of a . conduct d hither in the absence the comp ny , f f f of collecting himsel as well as he could , pro essed himsel ’ Crabshaw s t a opinion , tha the house was haunted , decl ring that he could not well account for his being there in the dark ;

a and , leaving those th t were assembled to discuss this knotty

a in of point, retired down st irs , hope meeting with his charm

f in n er, whom accordingly he ound the kitchen just rise , and in d wrapped a loose ishabille . ’ The noise of Crabsh aw s cr ies had awakened and aroused

a in a his m ster, who , rising suddenly the d rk , snatched up

a his sword that lay by his bed side , and h stened to the scene o f e x tumult , where all their mouths were ope ned at once to

of distufban ce a for plain the cause the , and m ke an apology ’ a breaking his honour s rest . He said nothing , but t king ’ f him the candle in his hand, beckoned his squire to ollow into his apartment , resolving to arm and take horse imme l r bs ha w diate y . C a understood his meaning ; and while he

uffl on a sh ed his clothes , y wning hideously all the while, wi shed the lawyer at the devil for having visited him s o unseasonably ; and even cursed himself for the noise he had m in of f a n ow ade, consequence which he ores w he should ’ be f f in a obliged to or eit his night s rest , and travel the d rk ,

of . rot exposed to the inclemencies the weather Pox thee ,

Tom for laaw er a f Clarke, a wicked y s id he to himsel , hadst

a at Bar telme - a thou been h nged y tide, I should this night h ve —an r slept in peace , that I should I would there was a bliste on this plaguy tongue of mine for making such a holla

—fi v f h as balloo , that I do e gallons o cold water my poor f and belly been drenched with since night ell , so as my reins l one if h my iver are all as t ey were turned into ice , and my whole harslet shakes and shivers like a vial of quicksilver. f f m I have been dragged , hal drowned like a rotten ewe, ro the bottom of a river ; and who knows but I may be next 68 TH E ADVE NTURE S OF — dragged quite dead from the bottom of a coal - pit if. so be

a s am a for I , I sh ll go to hell to be sure , being consarned

moorder for e like in my own , that I will , so I will ; a plagu on h ad 11 0 a f a - it, I business with the v garies o this cr zy peat ’ cd m f e as ter o ox s a . mine ; a p on him , y I He h ad just finished this soliloquy as he entered the apart of de n e ment his master , who sired to k ow what was becom of h ad his armour . Timothy , understanding that it been

f a to a le t in the room when the knight undressed , beg n scr tch his hea d in grea t perplexity ; a nd at la st decl ared it as his

a off af . opinion , that it must have been c rried by witchcr t

la Tom a he a Then he re ted his adventure with Cl rke , who s id w a s conveyed to his bedside he knew not how ; and concluded with affirming they were no better than p apishes who did f n not believe in witchcra t . Sir Launcelot could ot help smil ing at his simplicity ; but , assuming a peremptory air , he to f he commanded him etch the armour without delay , that m f s ight a terward saddle the horses, in order to prosecute their journey .

Timothy retired in great tribulation to the kitchen , where, h finding the misanthrope , w om the noise had also disturbed , f and still impressed with the notion o his being a conjuror,

ff if a he o ered him a shilling he would cast figure , and let ’ him know what was become of his master s armour .

of f f Ferret , in hope producing more mischie , in ormed him ,

a of without hesit tion , that one the company had conveyed it

of into the chancel the church , where he would now find it a t him deposited ; the same time presenting with the key,

which Mr Fillet h ad left in his custody . ’ The squire who was none of those who set hobgoblins f at defiance , being a raid to enter the church alone at these

a to and hours , barg ined with the ostler accompany light

a him with a l nthorn . Thus attended , he advanced to the

a la a n pl ce , where the armour y in a he p , and loaded it upo of be the back his attendant without molestation , the lance

a ing shouldered over the whole . In this equip ge they were just going to retire , when the ostler, hearing a noise at some one of distance , wheeled about with such velocity , that end

70 TH E ADVENT URE S or!

Tom forthwith began a very circumstantial recapitulation of wh at had h appened to his uncle ; in wh at manner he h ad been disappointed of the estate ; h ow he had accidentally s of a a and be een his honour, been enamoured his ch r cter,

of f come ambitious ollowing his example . Then he related the particulars of the plan which had been laid down to di vert him from his design ; and concluded with assuring the

a he knight , that the captain was very honest man , though s eemed to be a little disordered in his in tellects . I believe ’ c d in it , replied Sir Laun elot, ma ness and honesty are not ’ c — ompatible indeed I feel it by experience . ’ Tom for proceeded to ask pardon , in his uncle s name, ’ having m ade so free with the knight s armour ; and begged for of his honour, the love God , would use his authority with

all of - Crowe, that he might quit thoughts knight errantry , for which he was by no means qualified ; for being totally of of ignorant the laws the land, he would be continually c f . H e ommitting trespasses , and bring himsel into trouble s in f be a . aid, case he should prove re ractory , he might p of f for f prehended by virtue a riendly warrant, having elon l ’ i ous y carried off the knight s accoutrements . Taking ’ ’ a away nother man s moveables , said he, and personal a th e will of s ur tum f goods gainst , the owner, is and elony

a to a ff f m ccording the st tute ; di erent indeed ro robbery, ’ f on in a lta which implies putting in ear the king s highway ,

‘ via r e ia violen ter et eloni ce ca tum et a s or ta tum i n ma . g j p p , g

m r m & for if . n u ter or e c. , ; the robbery be laid in the indict

m i n ua da m vi a edes tr i f - the ent as done g p , in a oot path , f n a offender will not be ousted o his clergy . It must be i lta

v i a r e ia u ‘ a a g and your hono r will ple se to take notice , th t robberies committed on the river Thames are adjudged as ’ done i n a lta via r eg ia for the king s high - stream is all the ’ same as the king s high - way Sir Launcelot could not help smiling at Tom ’s learned n e on investigation . He co gratulat d him the progress he had f made in the study o the law . He expressed his concern at n to the strange tur the captain had taken , and promised use his i nfluence in persuading him to desist from the prepos r t e ous design he had form ed . w s ra NC l LAU ELOT GREAVES . l

‘ The er lawy , thus assured , repaired immediately to the ’ c e S h hurch , accompani d by the quire, and held a parley wit n who his u cle, , when he understood that the knight in per s on f desired a con erence, surrendered up the arms quietly ,

and - returne d to the public house . Sir Laun celot received the honest seaman with his usual c omplacency ; and, perceiving great discomposure in his

oo he was di s; l ks , said , sorry to hear he had passed such a

to . agreeable night so little purpose Crowe , having recruit

i of for ed his sp rits with a bumper brandy , thanked him his

s h ad concern , and ob erved, that he passed many a hard ni me but not ght in his ti ; such another as this , he would be bound to weather for th e command of the whole British

s navy . I have seen Davy Jone in the sh ape of a blue ’ m d e hO in fro on - fla e, y see, pp g to and the sprit sail yard ’ ’

- - arm ; and I ve seen your Jacks o the lanthorn , and Wills ’ - and o the wisp , and many such spirits , both by sea land ; ’ but ton ight I ve been boarded by all the devils and damned

in souls hell , squeaking and squalling , and glimmering and

o d — — as glaring . B unce went the oor crack went the pew cr h — came the tackle white - sheeted ghosts dancing in one corner ’ — by the glow - worm s light black devils hobbling in another — e 3 a Tom was Lord have m rcy upon us and I was h iled , , I , ’ m d e —a by my grand other Jane and my aunt Bridget, y see ’ ’ ’ c of damn d— t one f ouple Thut they re roasting, hat s com ort, ’ my lad . c u When he had thus disburdened his cons ience, Sir La nce lot introduced the subject of the new occupation at which ’ are he aspired . I understand , said he , that you desirous of of s treading the paths erra_ ntry , which, I a sure you , are thorny and troublesome . Nevertheless, as your purpose is to and m exercise your humanity benevolence, so your a bi But w s the ‘ ractice of tion is commendable . to ard p chivalry there is something more required than the virtues of courage

i A - a and generos ty. knight errant ought to underst nd the n be of or to be scie ces , to master ethics morality , well versed

o and a e in the logy , a complete casuist , minutely acqu int d f l n with the laws o his country . He shou d not o ly be patient 72 THE ADVENTURE S O F

of an d fati i1 e cold , hunger , g , righteous , just , and valiant ,

‘ and co ver m but also chaste , religious , temperate, polite , n s all a able and have his p ssions under the rein , exce pt love, ’ whose empire he should submissively acknowledge . He of said , this was the very essence chivalry ; and no man had f of ever made such a pro ession arms , without first h aving ff for placed his a ection upon some beauteous object , whose

at a f eu honour, and whose comm nd , he would cheer ully

counter the most dreadful perils . a n He took notice , th t nothing could be more irregular tha the manner in which Crowe had a ttempted to keep his vigil ; — for he had never served his novici ate h e had not prepared — himself with abstinence and prayer he h ad not provided a — qualified godfather for the ceremony of dubbing he had no of own on f a rmour his to wake ; but , the very threshold o

c f of hivalry , which is the per ection justice , had unjustly

purloined the arms of another knight . That this was a mere

of f mockery a religious institution , and there ore unpleasing of in the sight Heaven , witness the demons and hobgoblins

that were permitted to disturb and torment him in his trial . Crowe having listened to these remarks with earnest atten f tion , replied , a ter some hesitation , I am bound to you,

for —I brother , your kind and christian counsel doubt as ’ ’ — as for how I ve steered by a wrong chart, d ye see the mat

of w a a an ter the sciences , to be sure , I kno pl in s iling d mer

an ff a f c ator ; and am indi erent good seam n , tho I say it that as should not say it but to all the rest , no better than the ’

- Viol - block or the geer capstan . Religion I h an t much over

a l f h u ed and we tars laugh at your polite conversation , tho , m a fe w a ayh p , we can chaunt a b llads to keep the hands

- for a awake in the night watch ; then ch stity , brother , I ’ a- f doubt that not s expected in a sailor just come shore, a ter — ’ a long voy age sure all those poor hearts won t be damned

for a of . for h steering in the w ke nature As a sweet eart , Bet t — Mizen of S . Cath arines would fit me to a hair Sh e and I

old a : ha a are messm tes and w t signifies t lking , brother, she i ‘ ’ ’ a f o . H knows lready the trim my vessel , d ye see e con ‘ ’ eluded s — he u old with aying, tho ght he wan t too to learn ; S I R LAUNC ELOT G REAVE S . 73

a e him hi s and if Sir Launcelot would t k in tow , as tender, an d n ot he w ould stand by him all weathers , it should cost ’ ’ his consort a farthing s expense . lf of c The knight said , he did not think himse onsequence o a u a en ugh to h ve such a pupil , but sho ld alw ys be ready to him of be give his best advice ; as a specimen which , ex h orte d him to weigh all the circumstances , and deliberate c a nd f he almly leisurely , be ore actually engaged in such a f ' if boisterous pro ession ; assuring him , that , at the end of t u e hree months, his resolution sho ld continue, he would tak f ffi f n o . upo himsel the o ce his instructor In the meantime, for i on h e gratified the hostess his lodg ng , put his armour, ok of Bronzomar te to leave the company , and mounting , pro ’ cee ded e rabshaw southerly , being attended by his squir C , f grumbling on the back o Gilbert .

CH A P TE R VIII .

’ Whi i hi n a ha i r br ead h r in hi hl i n r i n ch i s w t s t of p ov g g y te est g .

I a a for LEAV NG C pt in Crowe and his nephew the present ,

re- though they , and even the misanthrope , will appear in of due season , we are now obliged to attend the progress the

who knight , proceeded in a southerly direction , insensible of m a w of h the stor th t ble , as well as the darkness , whic

Crabshaw s was horrible . For some time , ejaculated curse S f in ilence ; till at length his anger gave way to his ear, which waxed so strong upon him , that he could no longer

the of a a conv ers a resist desire allevi ting it , by entering into

wa of tion with his master . By y introduction , he gave i him a of G lbert the spur, directing towards the fl nk Bronzo marte, which he encountered with such a shock , that the

a . n knight was lmost dismounted When Sir Lau celot , with ’ a of a ? some w rmth , asked the reason this ttack the squire ’ i in God mun repl ed these words the devil , bless us ,

’ a be playing his pranks with Gilbert too , as sure as I m liv ’ —I sc f ing soul wager a teaster, the foul fiend has le t the 74 TH E A Dv E N TUR E s or

has — a seaman , and got into Gilbert , that he when has pass ’ an 1 se ed through ass and a horse, marvel what be ast a will ’ ’ a get into next, Probably into a mule , s id the knight ; ‘ a a — in that c se , you will be in some d nger but I can , at d ’ ’ ou . A e any time , ispossess y with a horsewhip y , aye, h as answered Timothy , your honour a mortal good band f ’ —’ at giving a flap with a ox s tail , as the saying is tis a wonderment you did not try your hand on that there wiseacre ’ an d t that stole your honour s harness , wants to be an arran ’ ’ w a nu. f be ith a murr in to Lord help his ool s head , it ’ d - comes him as a sow oth a cart saddle . There is no guilt ’ ’

a i . in infirmity , s id the knight ; I punish the vic ous only ’ the I would your honour would punish Gilbert then , cried ’ for tuoad a a squire , tis the most vicious th t ever I l id a leg

v — a a f a ma o er but as to th t s me sea aring man , wh t y his dis ? ’ ’ a ir e S . temp r be M dness , answered Launcelot Bodi ’ ’ kins , exclaimed the squire , I doubt as how other volks — ’ a re leam e of the s ame leg but an t vor such sm all gentry ’ mun a as he to be mad ; they leave th t to their betters .

Crabsh aw : You seem to hint at me , do you really think ’ I am m ad ? I may say a s how I h ave looked your honour

and be if in the mouth ; a sorry dog should I , I did not ’ know your humours a s well as I know e er a beast in the ’ v - s te able at Grea esbury hall . Since you are so well acquaint ’ ‘ h a a a ou ed wit my m dness , s id the knight , wh t opinion have y ’ ’ of f and f ? yoursel , who serve ollow a lunatic I hope I han t u for of served your hono r nothing, but I shall inherit some a — your c st vagaries when your honour is pleased to be mad , f i I should be very sorry to be ound right n my senses . Timo thy Cr abshaw will never e a t the bread of unthankfulness a of i it sh ll never be said him , that he was w ser than his m easter : for of f w as the matter ollo ing a madman , we may ’ s ee your honour s face is m a de of a fiddle ; every one that ’

on . r e looks you , loves you This compliment the knight If fa Crabshaw turned , by saying , my ce is a fiddle, , your — tongue is a fiddle - stick that pl ays upon it yet your music ’ ’ v — ou ou is ery disagreeable y don t keep time . Nor y nei ’ ’ measter im or e ther, , cried T othy , we shouldn t be her n s r LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 75

e n t of s - wand ri g abou under cloud night , like heep stealers , ’ or evil spirits with troubled consciences . Here the discourse was interrupted by a sudden disaster ; ’ i n of consequence which , the squire uttered an inarticulate r s f wh o oar, that tartled the knight himsel , was very littl e subject to the sensation of fear : but his surprise was changed i b nto vexation , when he perceived Gil ert without a ride r and passing by , kicking his heels with great agility . H e f a few orthwith turned his steed , and riding back paces, ’ f r I h n ound C abshaw rising from the ground . V e he asked what was becom e of his horse ? he answered in a whimper in fa r g tone, horse would I could once see him i ly car ’ r for the —for no ion hounds my part , I believe as how tis ’ horse , but a devil incarnate ; and yet I ve been worse moun t ’ e d —I d l f , that I have ike to have rid a horse that was oaled ’ of an acorn . w This accident happened in a hollo way , overshadowed w one of m ith trees , which the stor had blown down , so that ad on e of it lay over the ro , and its boughs projecting hori ’ zontall y, encountered the squire as he trotted along in the

d . ci not ark Chan ng to hitch under his long chin , he could f of disengage himsel , but hung suspended like a flitch bacon w f f hile Gilbert, pushing orward , le t him dangling, and , by his awkward gambols , seemed to be pleased with the j oke . This capricious animal was not retaken without the pers onal endeavours of the knight ; for Crabshaw absolutely refus~ f f ’ ing to budge a oot rom his honour s side , he was obliged to alight and fasten B ronzomarte to a tree ; then they set out ffi f b together, and , with some di culty , ound Gil ert with ffi his neck stretched over a five barred gate, snu ng up the ’ m . n ot orning air The squire, however, was remounted , without having first undergone a severe reprehension from him w a his master, who upbraided with his co ardice , thre t e to him on a ned chastise the spot , and decl red that he would d f ivorce his dastardly soul rom his body , should he ever be ' incommoded or aflronted with another instance of his base born apprehension . Though there was some risk in carrying on the alterc atio n 76 r u n ADVE NTURE S on

a at this juncture , Timothy , having bound up his j ws , could

a a to f not withst nd the inclin tion he had con ute his master .

f a a if He there ore , in a muttering ccent , protested , th t , the

a knight would give him leave, he should prove th t his h on our a h had tied knot wit his tongue , which he could not un ’ tie . H ow ff with all his teeth , caiti , cried Sir Launcelot, ’ presume to contend with me in argument ! Your mouth i s a a t sc rce shut , s id the o her, since you declared that a man for was was not to be punished madness , because it a distemper : now I will m aintai n tha t cowardice is a distem

as a s a for af if per, well m dness ; nobody would be raid , he ’ ’

. e a could help it Ther is more logic in that rem rk , resum

h f - a ; ed the knig t , than I expected rom your cold p te, Crab sha w ; but I must explain the difference between cowardice f n d a . f of a m dness Cowardice , though sometimes the e ect

a a of or natur l imbecility , is gener lly a prejudice education ,

a f m f or mis a reh en bad h bit contracted ro misin ormation , pp

an d sion ; may certainly be cured by experience , and the e xercise of reason : but this remedy c annot be applied in f ’ w a n or o a f. madness , hich is privatio disorder re son itsel ’ ’ ’ s a So is cowardice , as I m a living oul , excl imed the squire ;

’ ' don t you say a man is frightened ou t of his senses ? for my

a me as ter se e a f pe rt, , I can neither nor he r , much less argu y; ’ uan der : fo when I m in such a q y where re, I do believe , odds bodikins ! th a t co w ardice and madn e ss are both dis ff h ot of an tempers , and di er no more than the and cold fits ’ teake s all a ague . When it your honour , you re he t , and f ! fire, and ury , Lord bless us but when it catches poor ’ l sh e ak es Tim , he s co d and dead hearted , he and shivers ’ ’

an as enJe af a . like p , th t he does In that case, answered h s not ou for h t e knight , I hall punish y the distemper whic

a for a a you c nnot help, but eng ging in service exposed to

erils w hen ou a p , y knew your own infirmity ; in the s me manner man s w ho h f f a as a de erves punishment , enlists imsel or sol ’

i a . a d er , while he l bours under any secret disease At th t ’ ’ a be a rate , said the squire , my bre d is like to r rely butter

’ ’ f h a s o a . f ed o both sides , i ith But, I ope , by the blessing

God a mad r w i I h ve run , so I shall in good time g o val ant, ’ ’ under your honour s precept and example .

78 THE ADVENTURE S O F

h found himself in the market town afore mentioned . Here t e f Crabshaw first obj ect that presented itsel to his eyes , was , on f a oot, surrounded by a mob, tearing his h ir, stamping w f out in a f ith his eet , and roaring m ni est distraction ,

for of God w the Show me the mayor, the love , sho me l—O i mayor Gilbert , Gilbert a murrain take thee, G lbert s ure thou wast foaled for my destruction ’ a the of From these excl mations , and antic dress the squire ,

the a people, not without reason , concluded th t the poor soul had lost his wits ; and the beadle was just going to secu re

him , when the knight interposed , and at once attracted the f whole attention o the populace . Timothy seeing his master, f on f ell down his knees , crying, the thie has run away w — ou ith Gilbert y may pound me into a pcast, as the say ’ ’ : n ow 1 mad af of ing is but se as as your worship , an t eard ’ the divel and all his works . Sir Launcelot desiring the f f beadle would orbear, was instantly obeyed by that o ficer, wh o had no inclina tion to put the authority of his place in

of competition with the power such a figure , armed at all

n on for . poi ts, mounted a fiery steed , and ready the combat Crabshaw He ordered to attend him to the next inn , where

he alighted ; then taking him into a separate apartment, demanded an explanation of the unconnec ted words he had

uttered . ’ n dif The squire was in such agitatio , that, with infinite fi cult of d ff y, and by dint a thousand i erent questions, his ff —Crabshaw ac master learned the adventure to this e ect , ’ f cording to Sir Launcelot s command , had alighted rom his of n horse , and drawn his cutlass , in hope intimidati g the dis cornfi tted not robber into a tame surrender, though he did at all relish the nature of the service : but the thief was nei

nor o . ther so much hurt, s tame as Timothy had imagined o his f re He started n eet with his pistol still in his hand ; and , p ’ s n to s e f e enti g it the squire, wor with dread ul impr cations ,

th w r bshaw at he would blo his brains out in an instant . C a ,

u z of his nwilling to ha ard the trial this experiment , turned r h e back , and fled with g eat precipitation ; while t e robb r, w o se had run w nd r e eff hose h r a ay , mounted Gilbert, a od s xa LAUNCELOT GREAVE S. 79

a s the . two f cro s country I t was at this period , that ootmen ,

h ad belonging to the coach , who staid behind to take their

at a mornings whet the inn where they lodged , c me up to a of a the ssistance the l dies , armed with blunderbusses ; and

r a the ca riage proceeded, leaving Timothy lone in distrae

a . w tion and desp ir He knew not which way to turn , and a s

f a of on ot a r id remaining the sp , lest the robbers should come back and revenge themselves upon him for the disappoint

. t ment they had undergone In this distress , the first though s c was e e of a that o curred , to mak the b st his w y to the town , and demand the assistance of the civil magistrate towards the retrieval of what he had lost ; a design which he e xecut e d in e o im such a manner, as justly entail d up n him the pu

tatie n of lunacy .

f a While Timothy stood ronting the window , and nswer

a of a e ing the interrog tions his m ster , he suddenly exclaim d , —‘ ’ ’ bodikins ! there s Gilbert ! and . sprung into the street

with incredible agility . There finding his strayed compap nion br ought back by one of the footmen who a ttended the

o c he on f a nd c a h , imprinted a kiss his orehead ; hanging i t n about his neck , with the tears in his eyes , ha led his re ur

w f a ith the ollowing salut tion art thou come back , my d ? G ! arling ah ilbert, Gilbert a pize upon thee thou hadst like to h ave been a dear Gilbert to me ! how couldst thou

a of old f h as n f m break the he rt thy riend , who know thee ro a colt seven years next grass have I fed thee and bred thee ; ha d and f provided thee with sweet y, elicate corn , resh lit

a f . ter , th t thou mought lie warm , dry , and com ortable ’ n Ha t I currycombed thy carcase till it was as sleek as a sloe ,

of ? f r and cherished thee as the apple mine eye o all that thou. ’ e hast play d me an hundred dog s tricks ; biting, and kicking

an d if o plunging , as the devil was in thy b dy , and now thou ’ a f a to a could st run away with thie , and le ve m e be fl yed

measter : s a for f alive by what canst thou y thysel , thou cruel ,

hard - h e arted unchristian tuoad To this tender expos tula

ff n t o b tion , which a orded much entertai ment the boys, Gil ert answered n ot one word ; but seemed altogether insensible to the e es of o h who fo h him o the car ss Tifn t y, rthwit led int 80 THE ADVENT URES or'

a . 0 11 st ble the whole , he seems to have been an unsocial animal ; for it does not appear th a t he ever contracted any

of a w Bronzom ar te degree intim cy , even ith , during the

of a n f whole course their cquaintance a d ellowship . On the

e f his contrary , he has been more than onc known to signi y out aversion , by throwing behind , and other eruptive marks of for a a s contempt that elegant ch rger , who excelled him

was much in personal merit , as his rider Timothy outshon e

- by his all accomplished master . ’ a a a While the squire ccommod ted Gilbert in the st ble , the knight sent for the footm an who h ad brought him back ;

a and , having presented him with a liber l acknowledgment , a desired to know in wh t manner the horse had been retrieved .

a i i The stranger satisfied him in this particul r, by . g v ng c him to understand , that the highwayman , per eiving him f sel pursued across the country , plied Gilbert so severely s a with whip and pur, that the anim l resented the usage, n d a being besides , perhaps , a little struck with remorse for

f old f Cr absh aw , a having le t his riend , suddenly h lted, and

a stood stock still , notwithst nding all the stripes and tortures

w : or if m he under ent he oved at all , it was in a retrograde f . T e ff direction h thie , seeing all his endeavours ine ectual ,

n d f of a a himsel in danger being overt ken , wisely quitted his

he of acquisition , and fled into t bosom a neighbouring wood . Then the knight inquired about the situation of the lady

. ff f as a and e in the coach , and o ered himsel her gu rd condu

~tor ; but was told that she was already safely lodged in the f house of a gentleman at some distance rom the road . He likewise learned that she was a person disordered i n her

of w . s enses, under the care and tuition a wido lady her rela

or tion , and that in a day two they should pursue their f a journey northward to the place o her habit tion . f f m n the A ter the oot an had bee some time dismissed , knight recollected that he had forgot to ask the name of the person to whom he belonged ; and began to be uneasy at this omission , which indeed was more interesting than he

: for of in could imagine an explanation this nature would , ll h e to in the a likeli ood, hav led a discovery , that the lady s rn LAU N CELOT GREAVE S . 81

a a coach was no other th n Miss Aureli Darnel , who seeing

i n an u a an d u him unexpectedly such eq ip g e attit de , as he for off h ad passed the coach ( his helmet was ) , screamed with

su f a . n rprise and terror, and ainted aw y Nevertheless , whe

f om a a she recovered r her swoon , she conce led the real c us e

of a of her gitation , and none her attendants were acquainted

with the person of Sir Launcelot .

a of The circumst nces the disorder, under which she was

a . a s id to labour , shall be revealed in due course In the me n our a a ff time , dventurer, though un ccountably a ected , never dreamed of such an occurrence ; but being very much fati ’ ued f m f for of g , resolved to indemni y hi sel the loss last night s re pose ; and this h appened to be on e of the fe w things in ’ which Crabshaw felt an ambition to follow his master s ex

ample .

CHAPTER IX .

Which ma s er ve to s hew tha t tr ue a tr iotis m is o n o a r t y p f p y .

T two HE knight had not enjoyed his repose above hours ,

s uch a of when he was disturbed by a v riety noises , as might

h ave discomposed a brain of the fi rme s t texture . The rum ’ of a a a of f a bling c rri ges , and the r ttling horses eet on the p ve m w as wi of ent , intermingled th loud shouts , and the noise

F - and a . fiddle, rench horn , b gp ipe A loud peal was heard

u - a inn ringing in the ch rch tower , at some dist nce , while the

a f . resounded with cl mour , con usion , and uproar

a a a f Sir L uncelot being thus al rmed , st rted rom his bed ,

a of and running to the window , beheld a c valcade persons

a . well mounted , and distinguished by blue cock des They

a ockie s - a and were gener lly attired like j , with gold laced h ts on e of m a of buckskin breeches , and the bore a stand rd blue

Liber t a n d the la n ded i h silk , inscribed in white letters , y f ter es t. o He who rode at their head was a jolly figure, a of florid complexion and round belly , seemingly turned

f all of . fi ty , and , in appearance , a choleric disposition As F 82 THE ADVE NTURE S or?

a - s they approached the m rket place, they waved their hat , ’ huzza d and - N o or ei n con n ections l— Old , cried aloud , f g E n la n d or e ver ! a w as g f This accl mation , however , not s o d or a our d lou univers l , but that adventurer coul distinctly — a - f a of N o s la ver he r a counter cry rom the popul ce , y , N o p op ish p r etender ; an insinuation so ill relished by the

a a a cav liers , that they beg n to ply their horsewhips mong

and a the multitude , were , in their turn , s luted with a dis

or of r conse charge volley stones , di t , and dead cats ; in uence of q which some teeth were demolished , and many fil surtouts de ed . ’ Our adventurer s attention was soon called off from this a of f scene, to contempl te another procession people on oot ,

d of re a orned with bunches orange ribbons , attended by a

l of —God s a ve r ea t Ge r e ou r gu ar band music, playing g o g

ki n a a of a a w g , and he ded by a thin sw rthy personage , s llo n aspect , and large goggli g eyes , arched over with two thick

of or a f . semicircles hair, rather bristles, jet bl ck , and rowzy

w as His apparel very gorgeous , though his address was very

a a awkward ; he was accomp nied by the m yor , recorder, and f of . heads the corporation , in their ormalities His ensigns

— i i n s ci en n I. ber ( c e a d were known by the inscription , y f o c , the p r otes ta nt s ucces s ion ; and the people saluted him as he as sed with p q repeated cheers, that seemed to prognosticate a a f th success . He had particul rly ingrati ted himsel with e f good women , who lined the street, and sent orth many

ejaculatory petitions in his favour . Sir Launcelot immedi a tely comprehended the meaning of this solemnity he perceived it was the prelude to the elec

i of and t on a member to represent the county in parliament, he was seized with an eager desire to know the names and

ch aracters of the competitors . r f a In orde to grati y this desire , he made repeated applic

tion to the bell - rope tha t depended from the ceiling of his

apartment ; but this produced nothing , except the repeti ’ of d n f tion the wor s , Comi g , sir, which echoed rom three

or four different corners of the house . The waiters were s o i of d stracted by a variety calls , that they stood motionless , s ra L AUNCELO T G REAVE S . 83

’ in the state of the schoolman s ass between two bundles of a of hay , inc pable determining where they should first offer their attendan ce . ’ Our knight s patience was almost exhausted , when Crab shaw entered the room , in a very strange equipage : one

a f of f a a an d h l his ace appe red close sh ved , the other covered with lather, while the blood trickled in two rivulets from ’ his nose, upon a barber s cloth that was tucked under his

a an d chin ; he looked grim with indign tion , under his left a a arm c rried his cutlass , unshe thed . Where he h ad a o q uired so much of the profession of knight- errantr y we sh all not a f on pretend to determine ; but cert in it is , he ell his

f r an o knees be ore Sir Launcelot , c ying, with accent f grief t a of S . for a and distr ction , In the name George Engl nd ,

a I beg a boon , sir knight , and thy compli nce I demand, f ’ be ore the peacock and the l adies .

a h Sir Launcelot , stonis ed at this address , replied , in a ’ f a ro lo ty strain , V liant squire , thy boon is granted , p vided w of a th it doth not contravene the la s the l nd , and e ’ ’

of a . a constitutions chiv lry Then I crave le ve , answered ‘ C rabshaw f a t , to challenge and de y to mortal comb t tha c aitif barber who h ath left me in this piteous cond ition and l I vow by the peacock , that I will not shave my beard , unti I have shaved his head from his shoulders : so may I thrive ’ ’ of a in the occupation an arr nt squire .

f a t ha d to Be ore his m s er time inquire into particulars, t d in b hey were joined by a ecent man oots , who was like

a of wise traveller, and had seen the rise and progress Ti ’ moth s s . y di aster He gave the knight to understand , that rabs haw h ad for a b and a one C sent arber, lready undergone

f of the a hal the operation , when oper tor received the long expected message from both the gentlemen who stood candi

b w a s r dates at the ele ction . The dou le summons no soone

a and re intimated to him , than he threw down his b son , ’ a . tired with precipit tion , leaving the squire in the suds f him h al Timothy , incensed at this desertion , ollowed wit equ a celerity into the street , where he collared the sh ver , and l i on n of the insisted upon being entire y tr mmed , pai bastin 8 4. THE ADVE NT URE S or

ado. f and v n The other finding himsel thus arrested , ha i g

for a a f u an d no time to spare lterc tion , li ted p his fist , dis

h a it of Crabs h aw f c rged upon the snout with such orce , that

f a a w as fa th e e the un ortun te ggressor in to bite ground , whil

a a in of the victor h stened aw y , hope touching the double of wages corruption .

f of The knight being in ormed these circumstances , told

h a a f Timothy wit smile , that he should h ve liberty to de y

th e a the barber ; but , in me ntime , he ordered him to saddle IVhile Bronzomar te an d for a . , prepare immedi te service the ’ a a i n squire was thus employed , his m ster eng ged conversa

th e a a a tion with str nger , who h ppened to be a London de ler

a n for w as a a tr velli g orders , and well cqu inted with the par

l r a ticu ar s which ou dventurer w anted to know .

w as f a a a I t rom this communic tive tr desm n he learned , that the competitors were Sir Valentine Quickset a nd Mr

Vander elft a fox- e Isaac p the first mere hunter , who dep nd

for a ed success in this election , upon his interest mong the

- fl in - high y g gentry ; the other a stock jobber and contractor, of f n h a m of oreig extract , not wit out ixture Hebrew blood ,

w as a of immensely rich , who counten nced by his grace and supposed to have distributed large sums in se curing a m ajority of votes among the yeom anry of the coun t of a f y, possessed sm ll reeholds , and copyholders , a great number of which last resided in this borough . He said these were generally dissenters and weavers ; and that th e m f a a fa ayor, who was himsel m nu cturer , had received a

. a for e of very consider ble order exportation , in cons quence which it was believed he would support Mr Vande rpelft with all his infl uence an d credit .

for Sir Launcelot , roused at this intelligence , called his

h on a armour, whic being buckled in hurry , he mounted

a b Crabs haw im his steed , ttended y on Gilbert , and rode medi ately into the midst of the multitude by which the bust

a a ings were surrounded , just as Sir V lentine Quickset beg n

a f an a a f to har ngue the people rom occ sion l theatre , ormed of a of a plank supported by the upper bo rd the public stocks, and an inferior rib of a wooden cage pitched also for the ac~ commodation of petty delinquents .

86 THE ADVENTURE S or

of own e his competitor, who confident his strength , ascend d or old t the rostrum , in other words , an cask , set uprigh to e for the purpose . Having bowed all round the audienc of h ow am with a smile gentle condescension , he told them bi tions he was of the honour to represent this county in par liament and how h appy he found himself in the e n cour a ement of f wh o e g his riends , had so unanimously agre d to

s . a upport his pretensions He said, over and bove the qua lification n f he possessed amo g them , he had ourscore thou

a s and pounds in his pocket , which he had cquired by com

of a merce, the support the nation , under the present h ppy f of establishment, in de ence which he was ready to spend f f f the last arthing . He owned himsel a aithful subject to

a his m jesty king George , sincerely attached to the protest

in of a n ant succession , detestation and defiance a popish , t abjured , and outlawed pretender ; and declared hat he if would exhaust his substance and his blood , necessary , in

’ m the of . aintaining principles the glorious revolution This , c ‘ f ried he, is the solid basis and oundation upon which I ’ stan d .

f month These last words had scarce proceeded rom his , w of or on hen the head the barrel puncheon which he stood ,

f a being rail and infirm , gave way ; so th t down he went w fr ith a crash , and in a twinkling disappeared om the eyes f f h o the astonished beholders . The ox unters perceiving

of his disaster, exclaimed in the phrase and accent the ’ ! ! w v o chase , Stole away stole away and ith a hideous ciferation a s , joined in the Sylv n chorus which the hunter f halloo when the hounds are at ault . The disaster of Mr Vanderpe lft w as soon repaired by the d of f a f assi uity his riends , who diseng ged him rom the barrel — in a trice hoisted him on the shoulders of four strong

and of weavers , , resenting the unmannerly exultation their

f of . antagonists , began to orm themselves in order battle

f a An obstinate r y would have undoubtedly ensued , had h d not t eir mutual in ign a tion given way to their curiosity, of our at the motion knight , who had advanced into the m h wo f a iddle between t e t ronts, and waving his hand as s rn U CE O 8 LA N L T GREAVE S . 7

’ s for m f to ignal the to give attention , addressed himsel them, f i n with grace ul d em eanour, these words Countrymen ,

f f - riends , and ellow citizens, you are this day assembled to de termine a point of the utmost consequence to yourselves and your poste ri ty ; a po int that ought to be determined by far e f faction s oth r weapons than brutal orce and clamour . You,

' f of E of h the reemen ngland , are the basis t a t excellent con s titution which hath long flourished the object of envy and

admiration . To you belongs the inestimable pleasure of choosing a delegate properly qualified to represent you i n f o . i n the high court parliament This is your birthright, herite d f o a s o rom y ur nce t rs , obtained by their courage, and s ealed with their blood . It is not only your birthright, c n in of a whi h you should maintai defiance all d nger, but e c also a sacred trust, to be xe uted with the most scrupulous n care a d fidelity . The person whom you trust ought not t o e only be endu d with the most inflexible integrity , but s hould likewise possess a fund of knowledge that may e n

of able him to act as a part the legislature . He must be

well acquainted with the history , the constitution , and the laws of his country ; he must understand the forms of busi

of of ness , the extent the royal prerogative , the privilege of parliament , the detail government, the nature and regu of c ff of lation the finan es , the di erent branches commerce, h the politics t at prevail , and the connections that subsist , among the different powers of Europe ; for on all these sub jects the deliberations of a house of commons occasionally turn : but these great purposes will never be answered by

an of un electing illiterate savage , scarce qualified , in point

d ers tan din of g , to act as a country justice peace ; a man

who has scarce ever travelled beyond the excursion of a fox‘ c n fa hase , whose conversatio never rambles rther than his

- m stable , his kennel , and his barn yard ; who rejects decoru as degeneracy ; mistakes rusticity for independence ; asser h tains his courage by leaping over gates and ditc es , and founds his triumph on feats of drinking ; who holds his estate by a factions tenure professes himself the blind s lave of i t a party , withou t knowing the principles that gave 88 THE ADVENT URE S or

or s birth , the motives by which it is actuated ; and think th a t all patriotism consists in railing indiscriminately at

an d a a u of th e ministers , obstin tely opposing every me s re

is . a m an n o of h administration Such , with evil intentions

ow n u as a a l h a of a , might be sed d ngerous too in the nds d fa th e of aff esperate ction , by scattering seeds dis ection ,

a a h of the emb rr ssing the w eels government , and reducing ’ Whole kingdom to an archy . Here the knight w as interrupted by the shouts and accla m of Vande r elfi tes a ations the p , who cried loud , Hear ’ - s him ! h ear h im ! long life to the iron cased ora tor . Thi

a n f cl mour subsiding, he prosecuted his hara gue to the ollow ing effect . Such a man as I have described may be dangerous from s o a ign orance ; but is neither mischievous nor so detest ble,

a and to as the wretch who knowingly betr ys his trust , sues be the hireling and prostitute of a weak and worthless minis t er a he ; a sordid kn ve , without honour or principle ; who

fa a can longs to no mily , whose ex mple reproach him with

a h as a degener cy, who no country to comm nd his respect , n o friends to engage his affection ; no religion to regulate his m l who ora s , no conscience to restrain his iniquity , and

God a worships no but M ammon ; an insinu ting miscreant , who undertakes for the dirtiest work of the vilest administra t a ion ; who practises nation l usury , receiving by wholesale

a of of cor the rew rds venality, and distributing the wages ’ ruption by retail . ’ In this place our adventurer s speech was drowned in the

a of fox- in accl mations the hunters , who now triumphed

a a i l their turn , and hoicksed the spe ker, excl im ng , Wel ’ ’ o — a Swe etli s ! pened Jowler to un , to un gain , p hey , Merry W f !’ f hite oot A ter a short interruption , he thus resumed his discourse . ff s f When such a caiti pre ents himsel to you , like the

w a h im as if he devil, ith a temptation in his h nd , avoid — were in fact th e devil it is not the offering of disinterested

for has aff love ; what should induce him , who no ections , ou n ? a to love y , to whose perso he is an utter stranger las SI R LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 89

t . it is no a benevolence , but a bribe He wants to buy you

one a at . a t m rket , that he may sell you another Without doubt his intention is to m ake an adv antage of his purch ase ;

a in and this aim he c nnot accomplish , but by sacrificing , some sort , your interest , your independency , to the wicked

of can a a for designs a minister , as he expect no gr tific tion f f f o . if the aith ul discharge his duty But , even he should

an of a not find opportunity selling you to adv ntage , the

a fa crime, the sh me , the in my , will still be the same in you , wh o , baser than the most abandoned prostitutes , have sold

for — for a yourselves and your posterity hire a p ltry price , b f i n to e re unded with interest by some minister , who will demnif f out of own : for af y himsel your pockets , ter all , — you are bought and sold with your own money the miser h able pittance you may now receive, is no more t an a pitch er full of water thrown in to moisten the sucker of th a t pump which will dr ain you to the bottom . Let me therefore ad v ou ise and exhort y , my countrymen , to avoid the oppo site extremes of the ignorant clown and the designing cour

of ~ tier, and choose a man honesty , intelligence, and modera t ion , who will The doctrine of moderation was a very unpopular sub Ject i n such an a ssembly ; and a ccordingly they rejected it

a a s one man . They beg n to think the stranger w anted to s et up for himself ; a supposition that could not fail to in en cense both sides equally , as they were both zealously W gaged in their respective causes . The higs and the tories

a joined ag inst this intruder, who , being neither, was treat

i n . ed like a monster, or chimera politics They hissed , ’ a him they hooted , and they holl d ; they annoyed with m of issiles dirt , sticks , and stones ; they cursed , they threat

a nd a . ened , reviled , till at length his patience was exh usted f a I Ungrate ul and bandoned miscreants he cried , s as f - poke to you men and Christians , as ree born Britons a nd f - a of a ellow citizens but I perceive you are a p ck ven l , ’ i f ou . n amous scoundrels , and I will treat y accordingly So s the aying, he brandished his lance , and riding into thick e s t of h the concourse, laid about him with suc dexterity and 9 0 THE A nvnn r us ns or

ff t e d e ec , that the multitud was immediately ispersed , and

f a he retired without urther molest tion . ’ The same good fortune did not attend squire Crabshaw

. of f a in his retreat The ludicrous singularity his e tures , and the half- mown crop of hair th a t bristled from one sid e of his countenance , invited some wags to make merry at his e xpense ; one of them clapped a furze- bush under the tail of f f a s ter i r i Gilbert, who , eeling himsel thus stimulated p o o , a nd un a a kicked pl ged , and capered in such manner, th t

Timothy could h ardly keep the s addle . In this corn me

ca tion he lost his p and his periwig, while the rabble pelted a f him in such a manner, th t be ore he could join his master, f or a a o . he looked like a pillar, r ther pillory mud

CHAPTE R X .

Which s heweth tha t he who play s a t bowls will s ometimes m ith r r eet w ubbe s .

l 1i N g LAU CELOT , boiling with indignation at the venality f of m and action the electors , who he had harangued to so little purpose, retired with the most deliberate disdain to of of on of h wards one the gates the town , the outside whic

a of his curiosity was ttracted by a concourse people, in the of m n midst who stood Mr Ferret , mounted upo a stool ,

of a e with a kind satchel h nging round his n ck , and a phial in f displayed his right hand , while he held orth to the audi ence in a very vehement strai n of elocution . Crabshaw thought himself h appily delivered when he reached the suburbs , and proceeded without halting ; but h a his master mingled wit the crowd , and he rd the orator ff express himself to this e ect . e Very likely you may undervalu me and my medicine, ’ I n a a of . because do t ppe r upon a stage rotten boards , in a f f i n shabby velvet coat and tie periwig , with a oolish ellow

a a h fa a motely coat , to m ke you l ug by making wry ces ; but I scorn to use these dirty arts for engaging your atten ‘ s ra LA UN CE LOI GREAVE S .

r a d a tandum vul us tion . These paltry t icks , c p g , can have ’ o ff ideots if ou ide ots I n e ect but on ; and y are , don t desire ’

. I you should be my customers Take notice , don t address

of or a - you in the style a mountebank , high Germ an doctor ;

m f l of a and yet the kingdo is ul mounteb nks , empirics , and

a in a h quacks . We have qu cks religion , qu cks in p ysic, a m quacks in law , quacks in politics , quacks in p triotis ,

: a n ua ha quacks in government High Germ q cks , t t have

a t an a blistered, sweated, bled , and purged the n ion into tro ll phy . But this is not a ; they have not only evacua ted her

a into a consumption , but they h ve intoxicated her brain , until she is become delirious she can no longer pursue her

own or . the interest , indeed rightly distinguish it Like

of a f m people Nineveh , she can h rdly tell her right hand ro

f a an d her le t ; but , as a Ch ngeling , is dazzled delighted by ’ i n is a tuus VVill- o J he - e xhalatioii f m an g f , a wisp , an ro a a h the vilest materi ls in nature , that le ds her astray throug

one a Westphalian bogs and deserts, and will day bre k her n a or eck over some b rren rocks, leave her sticking in some

H . a if n pit or quagmire For my p rt , you have a

e I . mind to b tray your country , have no objection In sell

f - ou of ing yourselves and your ellow citizens , y only dispose — a pack of rascals who deserve to be sold If you sell one

I of o f another, why should not sell this here elixir l ng li e, if w which , properly used , ill protract your days till you s hall have seen your country ruin ed ? I shall not pretend to

of disturb your understandings , which are none the strong est a of , with hotchpotch unintelligible terms, such as Aris ’ totle s f of f our principles generation , un ormed matter, pri

ff f a . vation , e icient and inal c uses Aristotle was a pedantic

a f blockhead, and still more knave th n ool . The same cen s e we S f on a ur may a ely put that wise cre Dioscorides , with

f of s emnial f his aculties simples , his , speci ic, and principal

a h f virtues ; and that cr zy commentator Galen , wit his our e u l lements, elementary q a ities , his eight complexions , his

i I a on al harmon es and discords . Nor shall exp tiate the kahest of a a h ra that mad scoundrel P r celsus , with whic he p

' tended to reduce flints into salt ; nor the a r c/tre ats or ap i r ztus 9 2 TH E ADVE NT URES or

r ector of a Van -a that vision ry Helmont , his simple, element a r a a s f an d a a y w ter, his g , erments , tr nsmut tions ; nor sh all

I a the h a cidum v a u m enl rge upon salt , sulp ur, and oil , the g ,

of a an d a of h the mercury met ls , the vol tilized vitriol ot er m n a a of a a oder chemists , p ck ignor nt , conceited , kn vish

a a a a a h a r sc ls , th t puzzle your we k he ds wit such j rgon , just

a z m —r as Germani ed throws dust in your eyes , by lugging

and h a on th e ba a of in ringing the c nges l nce power, the

i a th e protestant rel gion , and your llies on continent ; acting

a z like the juggler , who picks your pockets , while he d z les

e a nd a fa f your yes muses your ncy with twirling his ingers ,

of h cus ocus for fa and reciting the gibberish o p , in ct , the

a a of for b l nce power is a mere chimera . As the protestant

h f a a n d l religion , nobody gives imsel any trouble bout it a

on ha a lies the continent we ve none , or at le st none that

m en a f m n u would raise an hundred to s ve us ro perdition ,

a n a f a a a or . less we p id extr v g nt price their assistance But ,

h of f I to return to t is here elixir long li e , might embellish it with a great many high - sounding epithets but I disdain to f w of a a f m ollo the example every illiter te vag bond , that ro

a an d a in idleness turns qu ck , dvertises his nostrum the pub li a I am f - a r f c p pers . neither a elonious dry s lte returned rom

a - a - a exile , an hospit l stump turner, a dec yed stay maker,

a of bankrupt printer , or insolvent debtor, rele sed by act par i m I m l a en t . did not pretend to ad inister medicines without of the least tincture letters , or suborn wretches to perjure themselves in false affidavits of cures tha t were never per formed ; nor employ a set of led - captains to harangue in l l my praise a t all public places . I was bred regu ar y to the f of a all of pro ession chemistry , and h ve tried the processes a I m a s a lchemy ; and y venture to y , that this here elixir is , fa th e chr us eon e ur omenon eh um a in ct , p p p , the visible , f glorious , spiritual body , rom whence all other beings derive

a s f fa h their existence , proceeding rom their t er the sun , and

th e f f an their mother moon ; rom the sun , as rom a living d s a n piritu l gold , which is mere fire , consequently the commo a n d a f h a universal first cre ted mover , rom w ence all move ble things have their di s tinct and particular motions ; and also

9 4, THE ADVENT URE S or

a f a in his beh l , by exhorting them to vindic te the liberty of the subject against such an act of Oppression ; but finding

af the of ad them de to tropes and figures his elocution , he

f him of dressed himsel to our knight , reminding his duty to protect the helpless and the injured, and earnestly soliciting his interposi tion .

eu Sir Launcelot , without making the least reply to his

of a treaties , resolved to see the end this dventure and , being ’ f joined by his squire , ollowed the prisoner at a distance,

a th e da f m easuring b ck ground he had travelled the y be ore , w as until he reached another small borough , where Ferret housed in the common prison .

a - a on While he sat horseback , deliber ting the next step he a of should t ke , he was accosted by the voice Tom Clarke ,

a rat c who c lled , in a whimpering tone , through a window g for of ed with iron , the love God , Sir Launcelot , do ,

a s o de r sir , be good as to take the trouble to alight, and a —I of con come up st irs have something to communicate,

n sequence to the community in general , and you in partie — d a a . I a a lar Pr y do , e r sir knight beg boon in the n me t t ’ f a S . or . of S . Michael and George Engl nd dis Our adventurer , not a little surprised at this address .

a mounted without hesitation , and , being dmitted to the com

a f f r mon j il , there ound not only his old riend To n , but also th e on - on uncle , sitting a bench , with a woollen night cap

of on his head , and a pair spectacles his nose , reading very

book f earnestly in a , which he a terwards understood was

f of and O r ~ entitled , The Li e and Adventures Valentine ’ son . The captain no sooner saw his great pattern enter, him of than he rose, and received with the salutation ’ ? f l an what cheer, brother and , be ore the knight cou d how swer, added these words You see the land lies here have Tom and I been fa st ashore these four - and- twenty hours : and this birth we have got by attempting to tow ’ — a f a . your g lley , brother , rom the enemy s h rbour Adds ! if f w for bobs we had this here ello whoreson a consort, ’ h all our w wit tackle in order, brother, we d soon she em the

our . topsail , slip cable , and down with their barricadoes s ra N LAU CELOT GREAVE S. 9 5

’ But f — e , howsomever, it don t signi y talking patienc is a — o - g od stream anchor, and will hold , as the saying is but, — m for ma of - . H e ark e damn y as the tter my bolt sprit y , ’ h eark e —damn d y , brother hard to engage with three at a one bow time , upon my , one upon my quarter, and one w right ahead , rubbing and drubbing , lying ath art hawse , f aft raking ore and , battering and grappling , and lashing — — and clashing adds heart , brother crash went the bolt - sprit — — down came the round- top up with the dead lights—I s aw of nothing but the stars at noon , lost the helm my seven ’ n I senses , and dow broached upon my broadside . As Mr Clarke rightly conceived that his uncle would n eed an interpreter, he began to explain these hints , by giv ’ ing a circumstantial detail of his own and the captain s dis aster . all He told Sir Launcelot , that , notwithstanding his per suasion and remonstrances , Captain Crowe insisted upon

of - h appearing in the character a knight errant ; and , wit t w out f - on hat Vie , had set rom the public house the morn ing that succeeded his vigil in the church : that upon the highway they had met with a coach , containing two ladies , one of m for as who seemed to be under great agitation ; ,

out they passed , she struggled with the other, thrust her w head at the windo , and said something which he could not distinctly hear : that Captain Crowe was struck with admir ation of her unequalled beauty ; and he (Tom) no sooner in f him ormed who she was , than he resolved to set her at li on berty , the supposition that she was under restraint , and

: a in distress that he accordingly unsheathed his cutl ss , and f riding a ter the coach , commanded the driver to bring to , on a of : one of a th e p in death that the serv nts , believing

an d captain to be a highwayman , presented a blunderbuss ,

him on S h ad in all probability would have shot the pot, not u m n he (the nephew) rode p, and assured the the gentlema

n on Cam os : all was p that , notwithstanding his intimation , the three attacked him with the butt ends of their horse w on whips , hile the coach drove , and , although he laid him f the about with great ury , at last brought him to 96 THE A DV E N TU R E S ‘ O F

o a : a gr und , by stroke on the temple th t Mr Clarke himself

f of a and w as a then interposed in de ence his kinsm n , lso se

v e re l a : a of a a to y be ten th t two the serv nts , upon pplication

of a of a h ad a justice the peace , residing ne r the field b ttle ,

ra a a a a and w and g nted a w rr nt against the c pt in his nephe , ,

h a m as a a af wit out examin tion , committed the idle v gr nts , ter

a an d h on of h ving seized their horses t eir money , pretence

for as w a their being suspected highwaymen . But there s ’ a of I am of no just c use suspicion , added he , opinion the

u of a a ma for a ls um justice is g ilty tresp ss , and y be sued f i m r is on a me n tum an d a a a for p , consider ble d mages obt ined ; a you will ple se to observe , sir, no justice has a right to com mit an af a y person till ter due examin tion besides , we were

for an an d a udita uer ela not committed assault battery , g , nor a s a m a w ndering lunatics by the statute , who , to be sure , y ’ a an d be pprehended by a justice s warrant, and locked up

if a a chained , necess ry , or to be sent to their last leg l settle ment ; but we were committed as v agrants an d suspected fa of highwaymen . Now we do not ll under the description v agr ants ; nor did any circumstance appear to support the

of for suspicion robbery ; , to constitute robbery , there must

a h w as be something t ken but ere nothing taken but blows ,

d . an an they were upon compulsion Even attempt to rob , f an a . without y taking , is not elony , but misdemeanour To a a a law be sure, there is t king in deed , and taking in ; but still the robber must be in possession of a thing stolen ; an d

a a a — M we ttempted to ste l ourselves aw y yuncle, indeed ,

a a 29 2 et a r mis would have rele sed the young l dy , had his

h a to a I strengt been equ l his inclin tion ; and in so doing ,

a a a f would h ve willingly lent my ssist nce , both rom a desire

a a f to serve such be uti ul young creature , and also in regard

for I I to your honour , thought heard her call upon your ’ n ame .

? sa — Ha how what whose name y, speak Heaven and ’ a ! of th e e rth cried the knight , with marks most violent

. a I emotion Cl rke , terrified at his looks , replied , beg your pardon a thousand times ; I did not s ay positively she I did did speak those words , but apprehended she speak

9 8 TH E ADVENTURE S or

to e Timothy apothegmatize in this manner, look d through ’ f the grate , and perceived the squire airly set in the stocks ,

of . a surrounded by a mob people When he c lled to him ,

a of f Cr absh aw and asked the re son this disgrace ul restraint , ’ ’ r s of a eplied , there s no cake, but there another the s me make—who never climbed— never fell— after clouds comes ’ f ’ h clear weather . Tis all along o your honour I ve met wit

r f of own this p e erment ; no deservings my , but the interest

of . if my master Sir knight, you will flay the justice , hang ’ a l a the const b e , rele se your squire , and burn the town , your

fa if I am name will be mous in story ; but , you are content , f thank ul . Two hours are soon spent in such good com ' ’ ’ f in pany ; in the meantime, look to um , jailor, there s a rog ’ the stocks . ff ff Sir Launcelot, incensed at this a ront o ered to his ser

a f f vant , dvanced to the prison door, but ound it ast locked ;

and when he called to the turnkey, he was given to under a at stand th t he himself was prisoner . Enraged this intima

tion , he demanded at whose suit , and was answered through of in I the wicket, at the suit the king , whose name will f ’ ’ hold you ast, with God s assistance . ’ The knight s looks now began to lighten ; he rolled his

eyes around , and , snatching up an oaken bench , which three f f ordinary men could scarce have li ted rom the ground , he ,

in all likelihood , would have shattered the door in pieces ,

of a had not he been restrained by the interposition Mr Cl rke,

a a him who entre ted him to h ve a little patience, assuring he would suggest a plan that would avenge himself amply on the ’

an of a . I justice, without y breach the pe ce say the justice , e added Tom , because it must be his doing . He is a littl a of f of of petul nt sort a ellow , ignorant the law , guilty num

berles s an d if a a for irregularities , , properly m n ged, may , this act of here arbitrary power , be not only cast in a swinging ’

sum out of . , but even turned the commission with disgrace This was a very seasonable hint ; in consequence of which

f a the bench was so tly replaced , and Capt in Crowe deposited f the poker , with which he had armed himsel to second the

ff of . for e orts Sir Launcelot They now, the firs t time, per s rx LAUNCELOT GREAVE S. 9 9 c iv ed h ad a e that Ferret dis ppeared ; and, upon inquiry , ’ found th at he w as in fact the occasion of the knight s deten ’ ’ a tion and the squire s disgr ce “

CHAPTER XI .

Des cription tf a moder n mag is tr a te . 0 ‘ BEFORE the knight would take any resolution for extricat

f f is r m be ing himsel rom h present embar ass ent , he desired to better acquain ted with the character and circumstances of

- b had i nu the justice y whom he been confined , and l kewise to w f ders tand the meaning of his o n detention . To be in ormed in a a u this l st particular , he renewed his di logue with the t rn

a r key , who told him through the grate , th t Fer et no sooner w ff h perceived him in the jail, ithout his o ensive arms , whic f w a f he had le t belo , than he desired to be c rried be ore the h ad f a a justice, where he given in ormation g inst the knight, of the a th e as a violator public peace , who strolled bout n f w f country with u law ul arms , rendering the high ays unsa e,

f of encroaching upon the reedom elections , putting his ma ’ est s in f a of j y liege subjects e r their lives , and , in all proba bili t a n ff y, h rbouri g more dangerous designs under an a ect

a of f ed clo k lunacy . Ferret , upon this in ormation , had been

an for released , and entertained as evidence the king ; and

Crabshaw was as . put into the stocks , an idle stroller

Sir Launcelot , being satisfied in these particulars , address f f w ed himsel to his ello prisoners , and begged they would communicate what they knew respecting the worthy magis of trate , who had been so premature in the execution his

f : was a of o fice This request no sooner signified , th n a crew n him a nd aked wretches crowded around , , like a congre

ation of a in a ‘ g rooks , opened their thro ts all at once , ccusa

of h was s cene tion Justice Gobble . T e knight moved at this , w c ow n . hich he could not help omparing , in his mind to f a n what would appear upon a much more aw ul occ sion , whe of o the cries the widow and the orphan , the injured and p 1 00 TH E ADVENT URES or

w of an pressed , ould be uttered at the tribunal unerring a a l of Judge , g inst the vil anous and insolent authors their calamity . h ad f When he , with some di ficulty , quieted their clam

of a r ours , and confined his interrogation to one person tole

a a a b ably decent ppearance , he le rned th t Justice Go ble,

f w as a h ad for a whose ather tailor, some time served as

a h ad journeym n hosier in London , where he picked up some

n a and a law terms , by conversi g with h ckney writers ttorneys

of of a clerks the lowest order ; that , upon the death his m ster, had a s f a of w he insinu ted him el into the good gr ces the wido ,

for h a who took him her usband , so that he bec me a person

f a an d a o some consider tion , saved money ap ce ; that his

a w as f pride, increasing with his subst nce , rein orced by the of f him f v anity his wi e, who persuaded to retire rom busi

a a ness , th t they might live genteelly in the country ; th t his fa h a of t er dying , and leaving couple houses in this town , a s Mr Gobble had come down with his l dy to take pos ession ,

a and liked the place so well , as to m ke a more considerable purch ase in the neighbourhood ; that a certain peer being indebted to him in the large way of his business and either

or h ad unable unwilling to pay the money , compounded the h h debt , by inserting his name in the commission ; since w ic ’ own and f a period his insolence, his wi e s ostent tion , had ex

ce e de d : of all bounds that, in the execution his authority , he had committed a thousand acts o f cruelty and injustice

a am s t of g the poorer sort people , who were unable to call him to a proper account ; th a t his wife domineered with a

more ridiculous , though less pernicious usurpation , among

f a of th e the em les place ; that , in a word , she was the sub of of l jcet continual mirth , and he the object universa

detestation .

a Our dventurer, though extremely well disposed to believe a w as a of wh t s id to the prejudice Gobble , would not give de f r entire credit to this scription , without irst inqui ing into of f the particulars his conduct . He there ore asked the speak

of a a . er , what was the cause his p rticular compl int For ’ own I in a my part, sir, said he, lived repute, and kept

1 02 THE ADVENTU RE S or a s a e ccuser , was m agre figure, with a green apron , who told

the knight that he had kept a public- house in town for a of a i n dozen years , and enjoyed a good tr de, which was a

- great measure owing to a skittle ground, in which the best people of the place diverted themselves occa sion ally : th a t ' r e fus in to h Justice Gobble , being disobliged at his g part wit

for own of all a gelding which he had bred his use , first shut up the skittle- ground ; but finding the publican still kept

S of his house open , he took care that he hould be deprived

‘ on of - too his licence, pretence that the number ale houses was

a man great , and th t this had been bred to another employ of a ment . The poor publican , being thus deprived his bre d ,

to a - a was obliged try the st y m king business , to which he had served an apprenticeship ; but being very ill qualified for f f a this pro ession , he soon ell to decay , and contr cted of debts , in consequence which he was now in prison , where he had no other support but what arose fr om the labour of f his wi e , who had gone to service . The next prisoner who preferred his complaint against the unrighteous judge , was a poacher, at whose practices

h ad for Justice Gobble some years connived , so as even to him f n of screen rom pu ishment , in consideration being sup i plied w th game gratis , till at length he was disappointed by accident . His la dy had invited guests to an entertain ment, and bespoke a hare which the poacher undertook to f urnish . He laid his snares accordingly over night ; but they were discovered, and taken away by the gamekeeper of the gentlem an to whom the ground belonged . All the excuses the poacher could make proved ineffectual in ap peasing the resentment of the justice and his wife at being

a thus disconcerted . Me sures were taken to detect the de linq uent in the exercise of his illicit occupation ; he was com mitted af an d f to s e custody , his wi e , with five bantlings, ’ was passed to her husband s settlement in a different part of the country .

a f a n A stout squ t ellow , r ttling with chains , had just take

a of a n w as up the b ll ccusation , whe Sir Launcelot startled w of ith the appearance a woman , whose looks and equipage s m 1 03 LAUNCELOT G REAVE S.

to indicated the most piteous distress . She seemed be turned of was of f the middle age , a lo ty carriage , tall , thin , wea

- : ther beaten , and wretchedly attired her eyes were inflamed

a with weeping , and her looks displayed th t wildness and

r n n peculiarity which denote dist actio , Advanci g to Sir

Sh e f Launcelot, ell upon her knees , and, clasping her hands f ll in v ehe together, uttered the o owing rhapsody the most ment tone of affli ction .

Thrice potent, generous , and august emperor, here let e u my knees cleave to the arth , until thou shalt do me j stice him on that inhumah caitiff Gobble . Let disgorge my sub stance which he hath devoured ; let him restore to my of widowed arms my child , my boy , the delight my eyes , of f ff of the prop my li e, the sta my sustenance , whom he f o hath torn rom my embrace , stolen , betrayed, sent int cap tivit — y , and murdered behold these bleeding wounds upon his lovely breast ! see how they mangle his lifeless corse t ! ! S Horror give me my child, barbarians his head hall lie ’ — upon his Suky s bosom she will embalm him with her ! in ! S bo tears . Ha plunge him the deep hall my y then in P— float a watery tomb Justice, most mighty emperor ! justice upon the villai n who hath ruined us all May hea ven’s dreadful vengeance overtake him ! may the keen storm of adversity strip him of all his leaves and fruit ! may peace f f orsake his mind , and rest be banished rom his pillow, so

S that all his days hall be filled with reproach and sorrow, and all his nights be haunted with horror and remorse ! may he be stung by jealousy without cause, and maddened by revenge without the means of execution ! may all his of . of spring be blighted and consumed , like the mildewed ears

e one w corn , exc pt that shall gro up to curse his old age, and bring his hoary head with sorrow to the grave as he himself has proved a curse to me and mine

of The rest the prisoners , perceiving the knight extremely s hocked at her misery and horrid imprecation , removed her

f fr a by orce om his presence , and conveyed her to nother room while our adventurer underwent a violent agitation , and could not for some minutes compose himself so well as 1 044 THE ADVE N TURES or

to 1 uqui re mto the nature of this wretched creature s calafl

mity .

of a a fa The shopkeeper, whom he dem nded this s tis ction , w gave him to understand th at she as born a gentlewoman ,

had a s h e a and been well educated ; th t m rried a curate , who

a f wa b the did not long survive his nupti ls , and a ter rds ecame f of one a a farmer a : a wi e O kley , in opulent circumst nces th t ,

f a a a a a ter twenty years coh bit tion with her husb nd , he sust ined

such losses by the distemper among the cattle , as he could not repair ; and that this reverse of fortune was supposed to

: n have hastened his death that the widow , being a woma of S an d a f h pirit , determined to keep up m nage the arm , wit

a of an who the assist nce only son , a very promising youth , was already contracted in marriage with the daughter of an of other wealthy farmer . Thus the mother had a prospect affa of f all e retrieving the irs her amily , when her hopes wer dashed and destroyed by a ridiculous pique which Mrs ’ fa Gobble conceived against the young rmer s sweetheart , be Mrs Sus an Sedgemoor . This young woman chancing to

- of h at a country assembly , where the grave digger the paris

of a out e acted as master the ceremonies , was c lled to danc before Miss Gobble; who happened to be there present also m a with her mother . The circu stance was construed into n ’ u b ff the npardona le a ront by the justice s lady , who abused director in th e most opprobrious terms for his insolence and

- of ill manners and , retiring in a storm passion , vowed revenge against the saucy minx wh o had presumed to vie in r gentility with Miss Gobble . The justice entered into her e ’ - k s entmen t . The grave digger lost his pl ace ; and Su y s

a for a . f his lover, young O kley , was pressed soldier Be ore

a for mother could t ke any steps his discharge, he was hurried a of away to the E st Indies , by the industry and contrivance f the justice . Poor Suky wept and pined until she ell into a f w d of consumption . The orlorn wido , being thus eprived f her son , was overwhelmed with grie to such a degree, that h she could no longer manage her concerns . Every t ing went backwards ; she ran in arrears with her landlord ; an d the of ff prospect bankruptcy aggravated her a liction , while it

1 06 THE ADVE NT URE S on

. of f ing the justice In result this con erence, the knight for and of called aloud the jailor, demanded to see a copy a of his commitment, that he might know the c use his

‘ and ff or a S imprisonment, o er bail ; , in c se that he hould be

f for of a . a re used , move a writ habe s corpus The j ilor

the of f : told him copy the writ should be orthcoming but , f a and a a ter he had w ited some time, repeated the dem nd

f w as . e be ore witnesses , it not yet produced Mr Clark th e a an then , in a solemn tone , gave j ilor to understand , that officer refusing to deliver a true copy of the commitmen t

was a f f of on e warrant , li ble to the or eiture hundred pounds ff for a f f of for the first o ence, and the second to or eiture c h f m twi e t at sum , besides being disabled ro executing his

cfli ce . Indeed it was no easy matter to comply with Sir Launce ’ for warrant h ad a lot s demand ; no been gr nted , nor was it

of f a s now in the power the justice to remedy this de ect , Mr

had a f a a Ferret t ken himsel aw y priv tely , without having communicated the n ame and design ation of the prisonei' : a

a f to circumst nce the more morti ying the jailor, as he per

e d th e ceiv extraordin ary respect which . Mr Clarke an d the now f captain paid to the knight, and was ully convinced l w that he would be dealt with according to a . Disordered m with these reflections , he imparted the to the justice, who

ai a a for had in v n c used search to be m de Ferret , and was n ow extremely well inclined to set the knight and his friends b at li erty, though he did not at all suspect the quality and a of our a r e import nce dventurer . He could not , however,

a of i of ff sist the tempt tion d splaying the authority his o ice, and therefore ordered the prisoners to be brought before his of tribunal , that , in the capacity a magistrate, he might f g ive them a severe reproo , and proper caution with respect

f u a to their ut re beh viour . They were a ccordingly led through the street in proces f sion , guarded by the constable and his gang , ollowed by Crabshaw f , who had by this time been released rom the

s of tocks , and surrounded by a crowd people, attracted by ’ curiosity . When they arrived at the j ustice s house, they SIR LAUNCEL OT GREAVE S . 1 07 were detained for some time in the passage ; then a voice was hear d, commanding the constable to bring in the pri

oners h a of s , and they were introduced to the ll audience, n where Mr Gobble sat in judgment , with a crimso velvet night - cap on his head : and on the right h and appeared his

a ff of l dy , pu ed up with the pride and insolence her hus ’ ffi fat f - band s o ce, , rowzy , and not over clean , well stricken i n a a of f ye rs, without the le st vestige an agreeable eature, f having a rubicund nose, erret eyes , and imperious aspect .

f was ff en The justice himsel a little, a ected , pert prig, who deav our ed to solemnize his countenance by assuming an air of f l e consequence, in which pride , impudence, and o ly wer s th e trangely blended . He aspired at nothing so much as character of an able Spokesman ; and took all opportunities of f and a as holding orth at vestry qu rter sessions , as well in

of ffi . the administration his o ce in private He would not ,

f a of of there ore, let slip this occ sion exciting the admiration his hearers , and , in an authoritative tone, thus addressed our adventurer . — The laws of this land has provided I says as how pro

of a vision is made by the laws this here l nd , in reverence to ’ d elin uems a nd manefactors n q , whereby the ki g s peace is ’ who upholden by we magistrates , represents his majesty s per ’ s on better than in e er a contagious nation under the sun ; ’ t t but, howsomever, hat there king s peace, and his here ’ ade uabl magistrate s authority , cannot be q y and identically

if how . Now upheld , so be as criminals escapes unpunished , f confidentious own ou riend , you must be in your mind , as y who n the are a notorious criminal , have trespassed agai laws on divers occasions and importunities ; if I had a mind

the of to exercise rigour the law , according to the authority I wherewith am wested , you and your companions in ini q uity would be s ewerely punished by the statue ; but we w it of magistrates has a power to litigate the s e er y justice , and so I am contented that you should be mercifully delt ’ withal , and even dismissed .

To this harangue the knight replied , with solemn and

li If I , de berate accent, understand your meaning aright 1 08 THE ADVEN T URES or

I am accused of being a notorious criminal but nevertheless

you are contented to let me escape with impunity . If I am

of a a a notorious criminal, it is the duty you , as magistr te , to bring me to condign punishment ; and if you allow a a ar e n u a crimin l to esc pe unpunished , you not only

of a worthy a place in the commission , but become ccessory

to all s oczus cr i mi m s . his guilt , and , to intents and purposes , ff I With respect to your pro ered mercy , shall decline the

I an favour ; nor do deserve y indulgence at your hands , f r a l w o depend upon it, I sh l she no mercy to you in the steps

a d I intend to take for bringing you to justice . I underst n that you have been long h acknie d in the w ays of oppre s m of in sion , and I have seen so e living monuments your — f humanity of th at hereafter . I mysel have been detained

. at in prison , without cause assigned I have been tre ed with

a indignity , and insulted by j ilors and constables led through

a f a oh the streets like elon , as spectacle to the multitude li ed a a a a an d af a g to dance ttend nce in your p ss ge , terw rds a f branded with the n me o notorious crimin al . I now de mand to see the information in consequence of which I was d a of a of et ined in prison , the copy the w rrant commitment

. or a fa of w as ac det iner, and the ce the person by whom I

cu s ed . a I insist upon a compliance with these dem nds , as

of an d if f the privileges a British subject ; it is re used , I ’ s hall seek redress before a higher tribun al . The j ustice seemed to be not a little disturbed at this per h ff emptory declaration ; w ich , however, had no other e ect

f of and inflam upon his wi e , but that enraging her choler,

a . ! Sh e do ing her counten nce Sirrah sirrah cried , you dares to insult a worshipful magistrate on the bench ?

C an a v a ram a you deny th t you are a g , and a dil tory sort ’ of a person Han t the man with the satchel m ade an affi ’ d of ? If was a la fa avy it I my husb nd , I d y you st by the for f riminer heels your resumption , and erk you with a p y

a of into the b rgain , unless you could give a better account f— ’ yoursel I would . filli ul Gobble, encouraged by this p, resumed his pet ance, and H rk e f proceeded in this manner ea y , riend, I might,

1 1 0 THE ADVENTURES or

e these words Sir Launcelot Greaves , your most humbl — servant when I saw a crowd at the door, I little thought — of finding you within , treated with such indignity yet I ’ can t help being pleased with an opportunity of proving the esteem and veneration I h ave for your person and ch aracter — you will do me particular pleasure in commanding my ’ best services . Our adventurer thanked him for this instance of his f him - riendship , which he told he would use without hesita tion ; and desired he would procure immediate bail for him f h ad and his two riends , who been imprisoned contrary to

law . , without any cause assigned

h a of During t is short di logue , the justice who had heard ’ a fa f Sir L uncelot s mily and ortune , though an utter stranger

a of to his person , was seized with such p ngs terror and com m punction , as a grovelling ind may be supposed to have felt in such circumstances and they seem ed to produce the same unsavoury effects th a t are so humourously delineated

a of on by the inimitable Hog rth , in his print Felix , his tri

a . bun l , done in the Dutch style Nevertheless, seeing Fil ’ e a let r tire to execute the knight s comm nds, he recollected f far himsel so as to tell the prisoners , there was no occasion

s an f for to give them elves y arther trouble , he would release

them without bail or mainprise . Then discarding all the f f and an of insolence rom his eatures , assuming aspect the

a most humble adul tion , he begged the knight ten thousand

a for f a h p rdons the reedoms he had t ken , whic were entirely ’

a of . owing to his ignor nce Sir Launcelot s quality Yes , ’ ’ a ou a f a I ll ssure y , sir , s id the wi e, my husb nd would have bit off his tongue rather th an say black is the white of your

if a God eye , so be he had known your capacity . Th nk , ’ f th e we have been used to deal with gentle olks , and many s ? good pound we have lost by them ; but what of that Sure

we know how to behave to our betters . Mr Gobble , thanks f w a be to God , can de y the hole world to prove th t he ever

or said an uncivil word , did a rude thing to a gentleman ,

a f f knowing him to be person o ortune . Indeed as to your

ff ff - - or poor gentry , and ri ra , your tag rag and bob tail, s rit LAU N CEL O T GREAVES . 1 1 1

k e such vulgar scoundrelly people, he has always behaved li ’ a a ri or of a magistr te, and tre ted them with the gg authority . ’ n z In other words , said the knight , he has tyran i ed over

r of : h the poo , and connived at the vices the rich your us ’ for f a . b nd is little obliged to you this con ession , woman ! ’ d Woman crie Mrs Gobble , impurpled with wrath , and

on S of a fixing her hands her ides by way defi nce , I scorn ‘ h . ! uot a n o your w ords Marry come up , woman q ; more ’ a . woman than your worship Then bursting into tears , ’ ‘ if u of Husband , continued she, you had the so l a louse , you would not suffer me to be abused at this rate ; you

a S l would not sit still on the bench , and he r your pouse ca l

for ed such contemptible epitaphs . Who cares his title and his knightship ? You ' and I husband knew a tailor but a that was made a knight ; , th nk God, I have noblemen ’ to stand by me with their privi leges an d berogue tifs . f At this instant Mr Fillet returned with his riend , a prae titioner law f ff in i our in the , who reely o ered to join ba ling a and t wo for sum dventurer, the other prisoners , any that ff n should be required . The justice perceiving the a air bega to d l h grow more and more serious , ec ared t at he would dis charge the warrants and dismiss the prisoners .

a Here Mr Cl rke interposing , observed , that against the k h ad f a n night no warrant been granted , nor any in orm tio not sworn to ; consequently , as the justice had complied

f of im with the orm proceeding directed by statute , the ’ m n a c r a on udiei . prisonment was o j , void Right , sir , s id if f for the other lawyer, a justice commits a elon trial , with out a be binding over the prosecutor to the assizes , he sh ll ’ ‘ ’ ‘ . a a a if fined And g in , cried Cl rke , a justice issues a

a for a ao w rrant commitment , where there is no ccusation , ’ ’ e tion will lie against the justice . Moreover, repli d the

if of a of a stranger, a justice pe ce is guilty any misdeme n our f f a i n ba n c in his o fice, in ormation lies gainst him o r e is g , where he Shall be punished by fine and imprison ’ ‘ ’ ‘ ment . And besides , resumed the accurate Tom , the f same court will grant an inform ation against a justice o

on for peace, motion , sending even a servant to the house 1 1 2 THE ADVE NT URES or

’ of or ai ffi correction common j l without su cient cause . ’ ‘ ! h of law f r True exclaimed the ot er limb the , and , o

Of law ma h ad a a contempt , attachment y be g inst justices of peace i n ba nco r eg is ; a justice of the peace was fined a f ’ thousand m arks or corrupt practices .

a a a With these words dv ncing to Mr Cl rke , he shook

a of h a him by the hand , with the ppellation brot er, s ying, ’ h as a h I doubt the justice got into cursed ovel. Mr Gob f of a ble himsel seemed to be the s me Opinion . He changed colour sev eral times during the remarks which the lawyers h ad a n m de ; and now , declaring that the gentleme were at

b a liberty , begged , in the most hum le phr se, that the com

a e at of h him f p ny would a bit mutton wit , and a ter dinner

a m the affair might be micably compro ised . To this pro

our and posal adventurer replied , in a grave resolute tone , If your acting in the commission as a justice of the

a own a pe ce concerned my particul r only , perhaps I should f and wave any urther inquiry , resent your insolence no other If way but by Silent contempt . I thought the errors of

a f your administr tion proceeded rom a good intention , de f of i n or eated by want understanding , I should pity your g f a ance, and , in compassion , advise you to desist rom cting a p art for which you are so ill qualified ; but the prepos ter ous conduct of such a man deeply affects the interest of a a of f the community , especially th t p rt it, which , rom its our n helpless situation , is the more entitled to protectio and assistance . I am moreover convinced , that your mis conduct is not so much the consequ ence of an uninformed

of a a head , as the poisonous issue a m lignant he rt, devoid of re humanity , inflamed with pride , and rankling with

of h venge . The commo n prison this little town is filled wit In the miserable Objects of your cruelty and oppression .

of r a a of stead protecting the helpless , estr ining the h nds violence, preserving the public tranquillity , and acting as

f and a ather to the poor, according to the intent meaning of of ou ' are that institution which y an unworthy member , ou w and n y have distressed the wido the orphan , give a s of f loo e to all the insolence o fice, embroiled your neigh

1 1 45 THE ADVENTURES O F

s train z— an a of Th k He ven , the laws this country have exempted me from the disagreeable task of such an e xe cu

. a a tion To them we sh ll have immedi te recourse, in three separate actions against you for false imprisonment ; and any other person who has been injured by your arbitrary and a a wicked proceedings , in me sh ll find a w rm protector, until you sh all be expunged from the commission with dis

a a d gr ce , and h ve m a e such retali ation as your circumstances f ’ will allow or the wrongs you h ave done the community . In order to com plete th e mortifica tion and terror of the

a a justice, the l wyer , whose n me was Fenton , declared , that , a f to his cert in knowledge , these actions would be rein orced w for rr a had ith divers prosecutions co upt pr ctices , which l ain dormant until some person of courage and influence should take the lead against Justice Gobble , who was the a a of more dre ded , as he acted under the patron ge Lord

r ton f a h ad Sha ping . By this time e r deprived the justice

f of and his helpmate o the faculty speech . They were in

e ff . to deed almost petrifi d with dismay , and made no e ort

a of r e spe k , when Mr Fillet , in the rear the knight , as he a of e tired with his company , took his le ve them in thes

now a words And , Mr Justice, to dinn er with what p ’ ma petite you y . ’ a Our dventurer, though warmly invited to Mr Fenton s

a h u house , rep ired to a public inn , w ere he tho ght he should a t a f be more his e se , ully determined to punish and depose f ff Gobble rom his magistracy , to e ect a general jail delivery of f and all the debtors whom he had ound in confinement, in particular to rescue poor Mrs O akley from the miserable circumstances in which she was involved . In the meantime he insisted upon entertaining his friends

a a of s ea wit at dinner , during which m ny s llies and good hum bur a a and h p ssed between Capt in Crowe Doctor Fillet , whic

f i a last had just returned rom a neighbouring V ll ge , whither ’ w as a a - w had he summoned to fish m n s yard arm , hich

na t the . s p in slings Their enj oyment , however , was sud d enl t a f w hi y interrup ed by a loud scre m rom the kitchen , h ther Sir Launcelot immediately sprung, wit equal eager S IR N 1 1 LAU CELO T GREAVES . 5

. s aw the a ness and agility There he l ndlady, who was a ’ a a man - in wom n in ye rs , embracing a dressed a sailor s

a and bloOd j acket , while she excl imed , It is thy own flesh , ’

. ! so sure as I m a living soul Ah poor Greaves , poor ’ G a a h a h as for e! reaves , m ny poor e rt grieved the To this ' ’ a for h a salut tion the youth replied , I m sorry t t , mistress . H ow does poor mother how does Suky Sedgemoor The good woman of the house could not help shedding tears at these interrogations ; while Sir Launcelot in ter pos ai th e ing , s d , not without emotion , I perceive you are

o n of h ~ s Mrs O akley . Your mot er is in a bad state of ’ a a a n e he lth , but in me you will find a re l p re t . Perc iving a man him h a e th t the young eyed wit astonishment , he g v him to understand th a t his n ame was L auncelot Greaves a a ed an O kley no sooner he rd these words pronounc , th ’ f an d z a ed he ell upon his knees , sei ing the knight s h nd , kiss for h am it eagerly , crying , God ever bless your onour , I

— - - but a of ? I can n your name son , sure enough wh t that ear

‘ ’ my bread without being beholden to any man .

a u wo When the knight r ised him up , he t rned to the I’ of . m man the house , saying , I want to see mother

' afraid as how times are hard with her ; an d I have saved ’ a of s ome money for her use . This inst nce filial duty brought

of our a tears into the eyes dventurer, who assured him his f for mother should be care ully attended , and want nothing ;

but that it would be very improper to see her at present , as

the surprise might shock her too much , considering that ’

a . E a she believed him de d y, indeed , cried the landl dy, we of were all the same opinion , being as the report went, ’ ‘ O a a . that poor Greaves kley was killed in b ttle Lord , ’ ’ ‘ of mistress, said Oakley , there wan t a word truth in it, ’ ’ ’ h ou . a t e I ll assure y What , d ye think I d tell a lie bout ’ m ? w as a f atter Hurt I , to be sure, but th t don t signi y ; ’

a s as . we gave em good they brought, and so parted Well , ’ ’ if a a a h so be I c n t see mother, I ll go and h ve some ch t wit ’ ’ for ? She S uky . What d ye look so glum an t married , is ’ ’ ‘ a she . No, no, replied the woman , not m rried , but

- e almost heart broken . Sinc thou wast gone she has done 1 1 6 THE ADVENTURE S OF

an d lf den nothing but sighed , wept , and pined herse into a ’ ’ I m f a h h a a a f . cav . a r id t ou st come too l te to s ve her li e ’ O a h a o f a a f kley s e rt was not pr o g inst this in orm a tion .

e a d — ‘ O m Bursting into t ars , he excl ime , y dear , sweet , gentle Suky ! Have I then lived to be the death of her ’ whom I loved more than the whole world ? He w ould h ave ’ w fa . a s a gone instantly to her ther s house , but restr ined by h ad in the knight and his company , who now joined him

the kitchen .

The man a a young was seated at t ble, and g ve them to

h th e W he n a understand , t at ship to hich belo ged h ving ar h ’ rived in England , he was indulged wit a month s leave to see his rela tions ; and tha t he h a d received about fi fty pounds

- . f be in wages and prize money A ter dinner , just as they gan to deliberate upon the m easures to be taken against Gob

e a u ble, that gentl m n arrived at the inn , and h mbly craved

a . a admitt nce Mr Fillet , struck with sudden idea , retired into another apartment with the young farmer ; while th e

a a h e justice , being admitted to the comp ny , declared th t

came to propose terms of accommodation . He accordingly

f a Offered to ask pardon o Sir Launcelot in the public p pers ,

an d f of th e a s a pay fi ty pounds to the poor parish , an tone

for ment his misbehaviour , provided the knight and his r friends would grant him a general release . O u adventurer told him he would willingly wave all personal concessions ; a u but , as the c se concerned the community , he insisted p n off o his leaving acting in the commission , and making h s atisfaction to the parties he ad injured and oppressed . a of This decl ration introduced a discussion , in the course e a a which the justic s petul nce beg n to revive ; when Fillet, e entering the room , told them he had a reconciling measur if for few to propose , Mr Gobble would a minutes with

. n w as draw He rose p immediately , and shewn into the

fo t room which Fillet had prepared r his reception . ile

u on a he sat m sing this outw rd adventure , so big with dis

a O the gr ce and disappointment , young akley , according to

e a f instructions he had receiv d , appe red all at once be ore i o in to h m, p in t g a ghastly wound , which the doctor had

1 1 8 TH E ADVEN TURE S O F a f f i rt ully shi ted the discourse , recommended res gnation to th e b h a Divine will , and o served , t at this circumst nce seem

’ a f nc ed to be an e rnest o further h appiness . O h I m i ap ’ of ! a able receiving more cried the disconsol te widow , with a ‘ an stre ming eyes . Yet I ought not to be surprised at y

f fa of a a a . blessing th t flows rom th t quarter The mily , Gre ves

a a a nd v . were alw ys virtuous , hum ne , bene olent This young ’ gentleman s mother w as my dear lady a nd benefactress : he f th e himsel was s uckled at these breasts . 0 he was sweet

e s t - a ! I n ot own , comeliest, best conditioned b be loved my

a ff — a Gre ves with greater a ection but he , al s is now no ’ ‘ ’ ! a a a m ore H ve p tience, good neighbour , s id the land of h lady the White Hart , t at is more than you have any — right to affirm all that you know of the m a tter is by com mon n f be report, and commo report is commonly alse ; I can I of a sides , tell you have seen a list the men th t were ’ a s f killed in Admir l P ship, when he ought the French ’

in and . the East Indies , your son was not in the number

f a a To this intimation she replied, a ter considerable p use , ’ ’

u f f . Don t, my good neighbo r, don t eed me with alse hope My poor Greaves too certainly perished in a foreign land e t a —had y he is h ppy he lived to see me in this condition , ’ grief would soon have put a period to his days . I tell ’

a . I you then , cried the visitant, he is not de d have seen Y a letter that mentions his being well since the battle . ou

l a — ou are n o shal come long with me y longer a prisoner,

bu t a f a ffa sh ll live at my house com ort bly , till your a irs are ’ settled to your wish . d f The poor wi ow ollowed her in silent astonishment , and m a d h was im edi tely a ccommo ated wit necessaries . Next morning her hostess proceeded with her in the same

a a r e cautious m nner, until she was ssured that her son had

turned . Being duly prepared, she was blessed with a sight

of a and fa poor Gre ves, inted away in his arms . YVe n ot shall dwell upon this tender scene , because it is but of a secondary concern in the history of our knight

a : ffi sa u w as nu err nt let it su ce to y, their mut al happiness

a . f spe kable She was a terwards visited by Sir Launcelot, s ra N 1 1 LAU CELOT GREAVE S . 9

n o f h whom she sooner beheld , than springing orwards wit

of a a aff to all the eagerness m tern l ection , she clasped him

h ! a ! her breast, crying . My dear c ild my L uncelot my pride ! my darling ! my kind benefactor ! This is not the first time I have hugged you in these arms ! 0 ! you are the very image of Sir E verh ar d in his youth but you have

an d got the eyes , the complexion , the sweetness , compla ’ a an d - cency of my de r ever honoured lady . This was not in the strain of hireling praise ; but the genuine tribute of

a . esteem and admir tion As such , it could not but be agree

’ our O akle s dis able to hero , who undertook to procure y him f f on ow charge , and settle in a com ortable arm his n a e st te . In the meantime Greaves went with a heavy heart to the of fa f had house rmer Sedgemoor, where he ound Suky , who

for of been prepared his reception , in a transport joy , though

a . re very weak , and greatly emaci ted Nevertheless , the turn of her sweetheart h ad such an ha ppy effect on her con s titution t in few f , tha a weeks her health was per ectly

restored . This adventure of our knight was crowned with every happy circumstance that could give pleasure to a generous

. a an d in mind The prisoners were rele sed, reinstated their f f f ormer occupations . The justice per ormed his articles rom f a f w f f ne . e r, and a terwards turned over a lea rom remorse

a h h e Young Oakley was m rried to Suky, with w om received

- a e f a considerable portion . The new m rried coupl ound a

’ farm ready stocked for them on the knight s estate ; an d the mother enjoyed a happy retreat in the character of house

at r v u - keeper G ea esb ry hall .

CHAPTER XIII.

I n which our knig ht is ta n ta lized with a tr ans ient g limp s e

T of our ar ticu HE success adventurer, which we have p larized in u f of the last chapter, co ld not ail enhancing his 1 20 TH E ADVE NTURE S or

c n ot w haracter, only among those who kne him , but also a n of mo g the people the town , to w hom he was not an utter

s . a u an d fi tranger The popul ce surro nded the house, testi ed

a a their pprobation in loud huzzas . C ptain Crowe was more

r for a r than ever inspi ed with veneration his admired p t on , and more th an ever determined to pursue his footsteps in the

r a of . his f o d chivalry Fillet and riend the lawyer, could not

i ff and v a f for help conceiv ng an a ection , e en pro ound esteem of the exalted virtue, the person , and accomplishments the

Wi h of a knight, dashed as they were t a mixture extr vagance

a f and insanity . Even Sir L uncelot himsel was elevated to

an extraordin ary degree of self- complacency on the fortunate

of issue his adventure, and became more and more persuaded ’ a - a f in th t a knight err nt s pro ession might be exercised , even the f E o . ngland , to advantage the community The only person of th e company wh o seemed unanimated with the f a a . n ot general satis ction was Mr Thomas Cl rke He had ,

w a a a ithout good re son , l id it down as a m xim , that knight e rrantry and madness were synonymous terms ; and that m t a a an d adness , though exhibi ed in the most adv nt geous

a agreeable light, could not change its n ture , but must continue f a perversion o sense to the end of the ch apter . He perceived the additional impression which the brain of his uncle had

a f a e sust ined , rom the h ppy manner in which the benevolenc of Sir L auncelot had so lately operated ; an d began to fear it would be in a little time quite n ecessary to have recourse to

“ of w h th e a commission lunacy , hich mig t not only disgrace f of but a a amily the Crowes , also tend to inv lid te the settle ment which the captai n had already made in fav our of our

young lawyer .

w a a Perplexed ith these cogit tions , Mr Cl rke appealed to

’ r a the ou adventurer s own r eflection . He expati ted upon bad ’ consequences th at w ould attend his uncle s perseverance in the execution of a scheme so foreign to h i s faculties ; and entreated for of God f his him , the love , to divert him rom purpose, either

um or a as of all a d by arg ents uthority ; , m nkin , the knight

h ad a s an a n alone g ined uch sce dency over his spirits , that he

would listen to his exhortations with respect an d s ubmission .

1 2 2 TH E ADVE NTURE S or

’ ’ c and al f your sts and breeches , hurling o t , d ye see, your

a and a tuoads c ves c verns , whistling and serpents , burning

f our I brimstone and oaming billows , we must take hap ; ’ v alue em not a rotten ra tline : but a s for sailing i n the w d a — ff in s eye , brother , you must give me le ve no o ence I é— ’ I - a hope pretend to be a thorough bred se man , d ye see ’ ’ ’ damn d if or an a a his and I ll be you , e er rrant th t broke cuit ever s ailed irfa three—m ast vessel within five points of the

fo - w - r an d a . wind , allowing variation lee y No, no , brother , — ’ n one of your tricks upon travellers I an t now to learn my ’

. a compass Tricks cried the knight, st rting up , and on of w laying his hand the pummel his s ord , what suspect ’ my honour ?

Crowe, supposing him to be really incensed , interrupted ’ him a a t a — ha with gre t e rnes ness , s ying , Nay , don t w t ’ a ize ! d bun tlines l—I p ad s didn t go to give you the lie,

h : I a as h ow a brot er, smite my limbs only s id to s il in the ’ ’ ’

was . s a u wind s eye impossible And I y nto thee, resumed

a h - the knight , nothing is impossible to true knig t errant, ’ ’

and a . I sa inspired anim ted by love And y unto thee, ’ ‘ a if holl d Crowe , so be as how love pretends to turn his ’ ’ - d a hawse holes to the win , he s no se men , d ye see, but a

- bo f snooty nosed lubberly y, that knows not a cat rom a cap — ’ ’ stan a don t . He tha t does not believe that love is an infallible pilot a of for must not embark upon the voy ge chivalry ; , next to of f t the protection Heaven , it is rom love that the knigh de of rives all his prowess and glory . The bare name his mis tress invigorates his arm : the remembrance of her beauty infuses into his breast the most heroic sentimen t s of courage ;

of a while the idea her chastity hedges him round like a ch rm , him of and renders invulnerable to the sword his antagonist.

- A knight without a mistress is a mere non entity , or at least t a monster in nature , a pilot withou compass , a ship with

and fro a out rudder , and must be driven to upon the w ves l ’ of discomfiture an d disgrace . ’ I f as An that be all , replied the sailor, told you be ore ’ h ow ot a as e I ve g a sweetheart, as true hearted girl ev r s m LAU N CELOT GREAVE S . 1 23

— ’ swung in canvass What th o f she may have started a hoop — — ’ in rolling that signifi es nothing I ll warrant her tight as a ’ - nut shell . a She must, in your opinion , be a p ragon either of beauty or . as a a virtue Now , you h ve given up the l st , you must

a and uphold her charms unequ lled , her person without a ’ do . I I a parallel , do uphold she will s il upon a p arallel ’ as well as e er a frigate that was rigged to the northward of ’ fifty .

‘ r ival th e f At that rate, she must attractions o her whom

I I s a b : f adore ; but that , y , is impossi le the per ections of my Aurelia are al together supernatural ; and as two s uns cannot shine together in the same sphere with equal splend our ff an d a , so I a irm , will prove with my body , th t your

r n - mist ess , in compariso with mine, is as a glow worm to the ’ m 3. - f l or a makarel s eridian sun , rush light to the u l moon , a st le ’ e e of . ou y to a pearl orient Harke, brother, y might give ’ : f a g ood words , however an we once ell a j wing, d ye see, I can heave out as much bilgewater as a nother ; and since

Be s selia 1 can you besmear my sweetheart , as well bedaub old your mistress Aurelia, whom I value no more than junk, ’ - f . pork slush , or stinking stock ish ‘ — un Enough , enough such blasphemy shall not pass

of our fe d f a chastised . In consideration having rom the s me f in table, and maintained together a riendly , though short

t er cours e I a f ou , will not demand the comb t be ore y are duly a can prepared . Proceed to the first gre t town where you f ff be urnished with horse and harnessing , with arms o ensive ’ f d and and de ensive ; provi e a trusty squire, assume a motto — device declare yourself a son of chivalry ; and proclaim the

I a f , excellence of her who rules your heart . sh ll etch a com

a en pass ; and wheresoever we may ch nce to meet, let us a in m a g ge with equal arms mortal co b t, that shall decide ’ and determine this dispute .

our a a m So saying, adventurer st lked with gre t sole nity : ffi into another apartment while Crowe , being su ciently ir

r i ate d f in of f a . t , snapped his ingers token de i nce Honest Crowe thought himself scurvily used by a man whom he had 1 924: TH E ADVENTURE S or

l f cu tivated with such humility and veneration and , a ter a n h a of a h of inco erent ej culation sea o t s , w ent in quest his n w o a a ephe , in order t m ke him cquainted with this unl ucky transacti on .

a In the meantime, Sir L uncelot having ordered supper,

ow n a b and a a to retired into his ch m er , g ve loose the mos t

tender emotions of his h eart . He recollected all the fond ideas which h ad been excited in the course of his correspond ence wi th the ch arming Aureli a He remembered with hor

f a a ror, the cruel letter he had received rom th t young l dy , containing a form al re nunci ation of his attachment ; so n u

a the of a a s uit ble to whole tenor her ch r cter and conduct .

th e of de cl r He revolved late adventure the coach , and the a

of a a a ation Mr Cl rke , with equ l e gerness and astonishment ; and was seized with the most ardent desire of unravelling a mystery so interesting to t he predomin ant passion of his A ll heart . these mingled considerations produced a kind of

of his i b ferment in the economy mind , wh ch su sided into a

f o d of an d pro ound reverie, comp un ed hope perplexity . ’ h w b of From t is trance he was aked y the arrival his squire, re the m who ente d roo with the blood trickling over his nose, f him and stood be ore without speaking . When the knight ? — " asked whose livery wa s tha t he wore he replied Tis ’ ow n — I your honour s livery received it on your account, ’ ou n and hope as y will quit the score . The he proceeded to

his a ha ff of inform m ster, t t two o icers the army having come a for th e into the kitchen , insisted upon h ving their supper

h a h ad and v ictuals whic Sir L uncelot bespoke ; that he,

’ l of h the squire, objecting to the proposa , one t em had seized a h the poker , and b sted him with his own blood ; that , w en

a h - a he told them he belonged to knig t err nt , and threatened of an them with the vengeance his master , they cursed d ‘ ’ a i a a a an d s abused him , c ll ng him S ncho P nz , such dog

a and ad hi m Don uicksot n mes ; b e tell his master Q , that ,

a h f him to a if he m de any noise , t ey would con ine his c ge , ’ l ini 1 a Du c a . and lie with his mistress To be sure, s r , s id ’ a a u he , they thought you as gre t nincompoop as your sq ire

- — - a but as how trim tram , like m ster , like man I hope ’ you will give th em a Rowland for their Oliver .

" 1 526 TH E ADVE N TURE S or

a a of men dressed in regiment ls , who , with peculiar air ar ro ance an d f a g erocity , treated him with gre t insolence and

. Tom w as a a a contempt ende vouring to persu de them , th t ,

of a a in the constitution Engl nd , the military was alw ys sub servient to the civil power ; and th at their behaviour t o a couple of helpless young women w as not only unbecoming

- a law a gentlemen , but expressly contr ry to the , in smuch as of they might be sued for an assault or an action dam ages . To this remonstrance the two heroes in red replied by a

of a f a h volley dre d ul o ths , intermingled with threats, whic put the lawyer in some pain for his ears . While one thus endeavoured to intimidate honest Tom o of a to Clarke, the ther thundered at the door the ap rtment

h ad a a which the ladies retired , demanding dmitt nce , but

d v received no other answer than a loud shriek . Our a en

turer advancing to this uncivil champion , accosted him thus ,

in a grave a nd solemn tone . Assuredly I could not have

of ow n believed , except upon the evidence my senses , that th e a a of his persons who have ppe rance gentlemen , and bear ’ a a e m jesty s honourable commission in the rmy , could behav of of so wide the decorum due to society , a proper respect to

of a ow e our f w the laws , th t humanity which we to ello

a d a a for f creatures , and th t elic te reg rd the air sex, which

a of h ought to prevail in the bre st every gentleman , and whic i in particular d gnifies the character of a soldier . To whom

a a of a sh ll th t weaker, though more amiable , part the cre tion

for if an d fly protection , they are insulted outraged by those

‘ whose more immedia te duty it is to afford them s ecurity and f f ? a or de ence rom injury and violence Wh t right have you , in h any man upon earth , to excite riot a public inn , whic may be deemed a temple sacred to hospitality ; to disturb

of f - of a ex the quiet your ellow guests , some them perh ps

us ted f of m h a by atigue , some the invaded by distemper ; ’ to interrupt the king s lieges in their course of journeying

f a ? but u pon their law ul occ sions Above all , what motive wanton barbarity could prompt you to viola te the apart m f of { ent , and terri y the tender hearts two helpless young i ladies, travell ng, no doubt, upon some cruel emergency, s rn T LAUNCELO GREAVE S . 1 2 7

m which compels the , unattended , to encounter in the night the dangers of the highway ’ H eark e Bethlem a a y , Don , said the c pt in , strutting up

cookin f of our a ‘ and g his hat in the ace dventurer, you ’ may be as mad as e er a straw - crowned mon arch in Moor ’ fi elds for a a m ! ou , aught I c re ; but d m e don t y be saucy , otherwise I shall dub your worship with a good stick across ’ ’

. ! your shoulders How petulant boy , cried the knight ,

s o a of I since your are ignor nt urbanity , will give you a. ’

ou a f . n lesson that y shall not e sily orget So saying, he u

a w a she thed his s ord , and c lled upon the soldier to draw in f his de ence .

The reader may have s e en / th e physiognomy of a stock ’ at or holder Jonathan s , when the rebels were at Derby , the f of hard ff eatures a when accosted by a baili , or the coun ten ance of an alderman when his banker stops p ayment : if

h as of a m a he seen either these phen omen , he y conceive the appearance that was now exhibited by the visage of the fe rocious a of captain , when the n ked sword Sir Launcelot

a f f gl nced be ore his eyes . Far rom attempting to produce

was of a his own , which unconscion ble length , he stood mo tionle ss a a a m a of as st tue , st ring with the ost gh stly look f . a o terror and astonishment His comp nion , who partook

a i h his panic , seeing m tters brought to a very serious crisis , ter os ed - fa a a p with a crest llen counten nce , ssuring Sir Launce h ad e lot they no intention to quarrel , and what they had don

of f was entirely for the sake the rolic . ’ B f ou y such rolics , cried the knight, y become nui and sances to society , bring yourselves into contempt , dis

a w o b the gr ce the corps to hich y u elong . I now perceive of a e h truth the observation , that cruelty alw ys r sides wit a cowardice . My contempt is changed into comp ssion ; and

are ba of f h as you pro bly good amilies , I must insist upon t is ’ young man s draw mg his swor an d acquitting him s elf in such a m anner as may screen him from th e most i nfamous ’ ’ nd r w - a - da censure which an officer can u e g . Lack y, sir,

' ' f to said the other, we are no o ficers , but prentices two

for . n a London haberdashers , travellers orders Captai is ’ 1 2 8 TH E ADVE N TURE S or

l we a e s e good travel ing name, and h ve dr ssed ourselve lik ’ officers to procure more respect upon the road .

for th e o of th e The knight said he was very glad , h nour fi m d service, to nd they were i postors , though they deserve to be chastise d for arrogating to themselves an honourable

ha had to i n . c racter, which they not spirit susta

s a These word were sc rce pronounced , when Mr Clarke o one of had appr aching the bravadoes , who threatened to a aw he crop his e rs , bestowed such a benediction on his j , as could not receive without i mmedi ate humilia tion ; while Ti

Crabshaw a fr m a his mothy , sm rting o his broken he d and

of a a a want supper, s luted the other with Yorkshire hug, th t. f o a him b o m a . th e l id across the ody his c p nion In a word , two pseudo- ofli ce rs were very roughly h andled for their pre sumption in pretending to act ch aracters for which they were so ill qualified . IVhile Clarke and Crabsh aw were thus laudably em ployed , the two young ladies passed through the, kitchen so

h ad a of suddenly , that the knight only a tr nsient glimpse f their backs , and they disappeared be ore he could possibly h of . a make a tender his services The trut is , they dre ded

a s nothing so much their being discovered , and took the u of n first opport nity gliding into the chaise , which had bee for some time waiting in the passage .

ad Mr - Clarke was much more disconcerted than our venturer by their sudden escape . He ran with great eager ness to the door, and , perceiving they were flown , returned “ ’t to Sir Launcelot , saying , Lord bless my soul , sir , didn ? ” ! !’ you see who it was Hah how exclaimed the knight, ” ’ of t e reddening with alarm , who was it One them , ‘ ’ old a plied the lawyer, was Dolly , our landl dy s daughter

. I at the Black Lion knew her when first she lighted, not i n r withstanding her being neatly dressed a g een joseph , ’ which , I ll assure you , sir, becomes her remarkably well . ’ f r u . o I d never desire to see a prettier creat re As the other, ’ old or u she s a very genteel woman ; but whether yo ng, ugly ’ or sa for was . handsome, I can t pretend to y, she masked I l few but had just time to sa ute D olly , and ask a questions ;

130 THE ADVE N TURE S or

S ometimes he resolved to employ all his industry and ad dress in discovering the pl ace in w hich Aureli a was seques ter ed a f , th t he might rescue her rom the supposed restraint

: B ut whe n to which she had been subjected , his heart beat ’ a a of was high with the nticip tion this exploit, he suddenly

a ch ecke d f inv ded , and all his ardour by the remembrance o

f t an d own that atal le ter , written signed by her hand , which f un had divorced him rom all hope , and first unsettled his d r tand n a e e s i g . The emotions waked by this remembr nc

o a f fire were s strong, that he le ped rom the bed , and , the h at being still burning in the chimney , lig ted a candle , th he might once more banquet his spleen by reading the ori

inal h t he d g billet , which , toget er with ring he had receive ’ f h e e a a rom Miss Darnel s mother, k pt in small box , c re

a fully deposited within his portm nteau . This being instant l f s y unlocked , he un olded the paper, and recited the content n i these words .

SI R Ob d as am b th e n f and the , lige I y passio you pro ess , eag erness w ith Wt h you e ndeavo ur to gi v e me the most cou I m i vincing p roof o f your reg ard . feel so e reluctance n m aking i h h in ll b a a w h a ms a w . a ba you cqu inted it c rcu t nce , ic pro ility , i i B t t h ff i you will not learn w i thout some d sq u et . u e a air s be m s a m d o u ha h w co e so intere ting , I compelle to tell y , t t o ever ag reeable you r proposa l s m ay hav e bee n to those whom I h o h m d a s b v r a ab s t ug t it y ut y to ple e y e ery e son le conces ion , and hows oever you may h aVe been fl attered by the seeming m a w it h w h i h 1 h a h a rd a d s 1 now co pl cency c ve e your dres es , fi nd i t absol utely necessary t o s peak in a de cisive strain to as r h t h s a t ri fi i n m w n d s ou . a u c o a a a u e y t t wi o t g y pe ce , I c nnot mit a conti nuat ion of you r co r re s po ndence ; a n d that your reg ard fo r me will b e bes t she w n by desisti ng from a pursuit w h i ch is altogether inco nsiste nt with th e h appiness of ’ ‘ N AUR E LIA DAR E L . Having pronoun ced aloud the words th a t composed thi s d a ismission , he hastily r epl ced the cruel scroll, and , being too well acquainted with the h and to harbour the least doubt of f be d its being genuine , threw himsel into his in a tran of h sport despair, mingled wit resentment during the pre dominancy of which be determined to proceed in the career of a d a f of his venture , and ende vour to orget the unkindness m - istress amidst the avocations of knigh t errantry . L U ' ‘ 1 3 s ra A N CE LOI GREAVE S . 1

l n u n Such was the reso utio that governed his tho ghts , whe

' h e Crabshaw r rose in the morning, ordered to saddle B on m r of zo a te . f e , and demanded a bill his expense Be ore thes

of eu orders could be executed , the good woman the house, t of ering his apartment , told him , with marks concern , that the h a d poor young lady , Miss Meadows , dropped her poc

- i f ket book n the next chamber, where it was ound by the

now . hostess , who presented it unopened Our knight having called i n Mrs Oakley and her son as f one f witnesses , un olded the book without reading syllable o

f - to the contents , and ound in it five bank notes , amounting two hundred and thirty pounds . Perceiving at once that the los s of this treasure might be attended with the most embar rassing consequences to the owner, and reflecting that this was a case which demanded the immediate interposition and of a f assistance chivalry , he declared th t he himsel would convey it safely into the h ands of Miss Meadows ; and de w the sired to kno road she had pursued , that he might set ’ f W w out in quest o her ithout a moment s delay . It as not without some difficulty that this information was obtained f - bo w ho the rom the post y, had been enjoined to secrecy by fi for lady, and even grati ed with a handsome reward his pro mi h i sed discretion . The same met od was used to make h m

a disgorge his trust ; he undertook to conduct Sir L uncelot,

- for who hired a post chaise dispatch , and immediately de f ’ f parted , a ter having directed his squire to ollow his track with the hors es . Y e t whatever haste he made, it is absolutely necessary, ’ for a f the the re der s satis action , that we should outstrip

f . chaise, and visit the ladies be ore his arrival We shall

f ~ there ore , without circumlocution , premise, that Miss Mea dows was no other than that paragon of beauty and good

- ness , the all accomplished Miss Aurelia Darnel . She had ,

h of f for wit that meekness resignation peculiar to hersel , some years submitted to every species of oppression which ’ a unli her uncle s tyranny of disposition could pl n , and his mited of at power guardianship execute, till length it rose to such a pitch of despotism as she could not endure . He 1 39: THE ADVE NT URES or

had projected a m atch between his niece and one Philip

man Sycamore , esquire, a young who possessed a pretty ’ a a a s consider ble est te in the north country , who liked Aureli wa s a of f ff person , but en moured her ortune , and had o ered

’ ' to purch ase A n th ony s in tere s t and alliance with certain con n ot a a of cessions , which could but be gree ble to a man loose

u a e fo a ffi s principles , who wo ld h v und it di cult ta k to settle f the accounts o his wardship .

a of a f c According to the present estim te matrimoni l eli ity,

Sycamore might have found admittance as a future son - in

’ an a fa f w as law to y priv te mily o the kingdom . He by birth

a a h and a fa a gentleman , t ll , str ig t , muscular , with ir , sleek ,

fa a a - unmeaning ce , th t promised more simplicity , th n ill na

ture . His education had not been neglected , and he inherit

of a . l ed an estate five thousand a ye r Miss Darne , however, had d penetration enough to iscover and despise him , as a

of f strange composition rapacity and pro usion , absurdity

and f f- good sense , bash ulness and impudence, sel conceit

‘ and difli dence a a , awkw rdness and ostent tion , insolence and

- good nature, rashness and timidity . He was continually s urround ed and preyed upon by certain vermine called led

ff o - captains and bu o ns , who shewed him in leading strings , f like a sucking giant , ri led his pockets without ceremony ,

fa and ridiculed him to his ce , traduced his character , ex posed him in a thous and ludicrous attitudes for the diversion

of a the public ; while at the s me time he knew their knavery ,

f a and un saw their dri t , detested their mor ls , despised their

ders tandin f a of g . He was so in atu ted by indolence thought , a n f a u and communic tio with olly , th t he wo ld have rather

ff f to d a su ered himsel be led into a itch with comp ny , than be at the pains of going over a bridge alone and involved him

f f a of sel in a thousand di ficulties , the natur l consequences fi an error in the rst concoction , which , though he plainly

had . saw it , he not resolution enough to avoid ’ of rofe s Such was the character Squire Sycamore , who p sed himself the rival of Sir L auncelot Greaves in the good er graces of Miss Aureli a Darnel . He had in this pursuit p severe d with more constancy and fortitude than he ever ex~

1 34 THE A DV E N TUR E S or

' s e of i er th e and the prepos ssion his domest cs , perv ted into effects of insanity and the same interpretation was strained ff upon her most indi erent words an d a ctions . ’ The tidings of Miss Darnel s disorder were carefully cir

culate d a e a of S ca in whispers , and soon re ch d the e rs Mr y

m who w as at the f . ore , not all pleased with in ormation ’ of t c From his knowledge Anthony s disposi ion , he suspe ted

of an d w e the truth the report ; , un illing to see such a priz

f v e ravished rom his grasp , he , with the ad ic and assistance of in his myrmidons , resolved to set the captive at liberty , full hope of turning the adventure to his ow n advantage ; for he a rgued in this manner If she is in fact comp os mentis f n , her gratitude will operate in my behal , and eve prudence will advise her to embrace the proffered asylum f m v f f o u . I ro the illany her ncle she is really disordered, i t Wi be ffi ul ll no great di c ty to deceive her into marriage, ’ and then I become her trustee of course . n l not The pla was wel conceived , but Sycamore had dis w cretion enough to keep his o n counsel . From weakness

and vanity , he blabbed the design , which in a little time D was communicated to Anthony arnel , and he took his pre infir m own cautions accordingly . Being in his person , and consequently unfit for opposing the violence of some des eradoe s to sa of e p , whom he knew be the tellites Sycamor , he prepared a private retreat for his ward at the house of an old th e of gentleman , companion his youth , whom he had imposed upon with the fiction of her being disordered in her

s and of a de under tanding, amused with a story dangerous e the sign upon her person . Thus caution d and instructed , gentlem an had gone with his own coach and servants to

A a a receive ureli and her govern nte at a third house , to which ’ she h ad been privately removed from her uncle s h abitation ; and in this journey it was that she had been so accidentally protected from the violence of the robbers by the interposi

of o r tion and prowess u adventurer .

a As he did not wear his helmet in th t exploit, she recog

n ized f e his eatures as he pass d the coach , and , struck with

s e . s the apparition , hriek d aloud She had been a sured by ra 1 35 s LAUNCELOT GREAVE S.

her guardian that his design was to convey her to her own house ; but perceiving in the sequel that the carriage struck off ff f upon a di erent road , and finding hersel in the hands

of to a a e strangers, she began dread a much more dis gree bl f ate , and conceived doubts and ideas that filled her tender ffl heart with horror and a iction . When she expostulated h with the duenna, she was treated like a changling, admonis

r e ed to be quiet , and reminded that she was under the di c tion of those who would manage her with a tender regard to

own f of he r fa she her wel are , and the honour mily . When

a f old w as h ddressed hersel to the gentleman , who not muc s of ubject to the emotions humanity , and besides firmly per

s uaded of no that she was deprived her reason , he made a w on month b of ns er, but laid his finger his y way enjoin i ng silence . This mysterious behaviour aggr avated the fears of the

an d poor hapless young lady ; her terrors waxed so strong,

t a f hat when she saw Tom Cl rke , whose ace she knew , she for e called aloud assistance , and even pronounced the nam

of his a patron Sir Launcelot Greaves , which she im gined might stimulate him the more to attempt something for her

deliverance . The reader has already been informed in what manner f om the endeavours o T and his uncle miscarried . Miss ’ a of D rnel s new keeper having , in the course his journey , for f of halted re reshment at the Black Lion , which being f landlord , he believed the good woman and her amily were entirely devoted to his will and pleasure ; Aurelia found an tu of i w ho h ad oppor nity speaking in pr vate to Dolly , a v of ery prepossessing appearance . She conveyed a purse of money into the hands this young woman , telling her, w hile the tears trickled down her cheeks , that she was a

of f i n of young lady ortune , danger, as she apprehended , h a assassination . This hint , whic she communic ted in a d of whisper, while the governante stoo at the other end the ffi in room , was su cient to interest the compassionate Dolly h a f. a s e her behal As soon as the coach dep rted , m de her mother acquainted with the tran saction ; and as they no THE ADVE N TURE S OF

turally concluded th a t the young l ady expected their assist

ance, they resolved to approve themselves worthy of her n co fidence . Dolly having enlisted in their design a trusty country

man one of ow n f a out , her pro essed dmirers , they set together for the house of the gentlem an in which the fair prisoner w as and a for f confined , w ited her in secret at the end o a

a a a a ple s nt p rk , in which they natur lly concluded she might

of be indulged with the privilege taking the air . The event j ustified their conception ; on the very first day of their a watch they saw her approach , accomp nied by her duenna . Dolly and her a ttendant immediately tied their horses to a s and fa take , retired into a thicket, which Aurelia did not il

f a to enter. Dolly orthwith appe red, and , taking her by a one of the h nd , led her to the horses , which she mounted in and an the utmost hurry trepidation , while the countrym a for bound the duenna with cord prepared the purpose,

a f gagged her mouth , and tied her to tree, where he le t her f t o o wn a . be her medit tions Then mounted be ore Dolly , and through unfrequented paths conducted his charge to an

on - for , inn the post road , where a chaise was ready their re ception . f f f m As he re used to proceed arther , lest his absence ro

wn n his o home should create suspicio , Aurelia rewarded

a but a fa f him liber lly , would not p rt with her ith ul Dolly , who indeed h ad no inclination to be disch arged ; such an affection and attachment had she already a cquired for the

a f ami ble ugitive , though she knew neither her story nor her

a true name . Aureli thought proper to conceal both , and

a of assumed the fictitious appell tion Meadows , until she s hould be better acquainted with the disposition and disere

f a tion o her new ttendant . a i n The first resolution she could t ke , the present flutter of of her spirits , was to make the best her way to London , where she thought she might find an asylum in the house of

f a a an n a emale rel tion , m rried to eminent physician , know f r e wdle . o by the n ame of. Ka In the execution this hasty s f m s to s i olve, she travelled at a violent rate, ro tage tage, n,

1 88 THE A DV E N TUR E S on d f a eparture rom the White H rt , that Sir Launcelot arrived

t SS a a b a the inn , where MI Aureli D rnel had esp oke a dish

f a a - a for o te . i , and post ch ise the next stage He had by n

a a quiry tr ced her considerable way , without ever dream d ing who the person really was whom he thus pursue , and

w w = w n o he desired to speak th her attendant . Dolly as not a e of e little surprised to see Sir Launcelot Gr aves , whos ch aracter she h ad conceiv ed a very sublime idea from the n arrative of Mr Thomas Clarke ; but she was still more surprised when he gave her to understand that he had charg

h f - n a ed imsel with the pocket book , co taining the b nk notes w hich Miss Me adows had dropped in the house where they

d a n h o h a been threatened with insult . Miss D r el ad n t yet d c d a is overed her is ster . when her attendant , running into

a a the p rtment , presented the prize which she had received f our a Mea rom dventurer , with his compliments to Miss d a to m ows , implying request be ad itted into her presence, that he might make a personal tender of his best services . I t is not to be supposed that the amiable Aurelia heard unmoved such a message from a person whom her maid e discovered to be the identical Sir Launcelot Greaves , whos story she h ad so lately related : but a s the ensuing scene re

f a l f quires resh attention in the re der, we shal de er it till s f m another opportunity , when his spirit shall be recruited ro

f o the atigue f this chapter.

CHAPTER XV .

E xhibitin a n i n ter vi ew whi ch it is to be ho ed will i nter es t g , , p ,

the cur ios ity of the r ea der .

THE mind of the delicate Aurelia was strangely agitated by

h er - the intelligence which she received , with pocket book, f f of rom Dolly . Con ounded as she was by the nature her s a not itu tion , she at once perceived that she could , with ar to of f any reg d the dictates gratitude, re use complying of Sir n r of with the request Lau celot ; but, in the first hu ry s m LAUNCEL O T GREAVE S . 1 89

i e she her emot on , she directed Dolly to beg, in her nam , that might be excused for w e aring a mask at the interview which a he desired , as she had particular re sons , which concerned

for i . O ur her peace , retaining that disgu se adventurer sub

a mitte d to this prelimin ry with a good grace , as he had no

in w of thing Vie but the injunction his order, and the duties of humanity ; and he was admitted without further pre m a ble . h e l When he entered the room , cou d not help being f im s truck with the presence o Aurelia. Her stature was proved since he had seen her ; her shape was exquisitely f him of h ormed ; and she received with an air dignity , whic impressed him with a very sublime idea of her person and ff character . She was no less a ected at the sight of our a d v enturer, who , though cased in armour, appeared with his head uncovered ; and the exercise of travelling had thrown s of v on f t h uch a glow health and ivacity his ea ures , whic were naturally elegant and expressive, that we will venture to n say, there was not in all Engla d a couple that excelled m e this a iabl pair in personal beauty and accomplishments . Aurelia shone with all the fabled graces of nymph or god dess ; and to Si r Launcelot might be applied what the di . vine poet Ariosto says of the prince Z erbino

N atura il fece e oi ru e la s am p pp t pa. ’ ’ ’ Wh en ature s tam d him sh th die des tro d. N p , e e y Our adventurer having made his obeisance to this sup

of posed Miss Meadows , told her, with an air pleasantry , that although he thought himself highly honoured in being

admitted to her presence, and allowed to pay his respects to e t her, as superior beings are adored , unseen ; y his pleasure if would receive a very considerable addition , she would be

pleased to withdraw that invidious veil , that he might have

a im . a glimpse of the divinity which it concealed . Aureli

m off f a ediately took her mask , saying , with a altering ccent , I canno t be so ungrateful as to deny su ch a small favour to a gentleman who has laid me under the most important ” obligations . l r The unexpected apparition of Miss Aure ia Da nel, beam 1 40 TH E A DV E xTU nE s or

all a of ing with the em nations ripened beauty , blushing h all a of the f wit the gr ces most lovely con usion , could not bu t produce 3 V i olent effect upon the mind of Sir Launcelot

a . d d Gre ves He was , in eed , overwhelmed with a mingle

a of a aff tr nsport stonishment , admiration , ection , and awe .

a h f m The colour v nis ed ro his cheeks , and he stood gazing u h the of pon her, in silence , wit most emphatic expression countenance .

A f : a urelia was in ected by his disorder she beg n to tremble , — ’ f o f — ‘ n . I a f and the roses luctuated her ace c nnot orget , ‘ d a I owe m f a and of sai she , th t y li e to the cour ge humanity

a a t a t a Sir L uncelot Gre ves , and tha he the s me time rescued ’ f th e m f a a and n a rom ost dread ul death de r ve er ble parent . ’ sh e ! Would to Heaven still survived cried our adventurer, w f h m . of it great e otion She was the riend my youth , the kind patroness of my felicity ! my guardian angel forsook m e when she expired her last inj unctions are deep engraven ’ on my heart 3

f handker While he pronounced these words, she li ted her

f fa af e . chie to her ir eyes , and , t r some pause , proceeded in a m — I a —I h tre ulous tone , I hope, sir hope you h ve s ould he s — a u in orry p rdon me , sir , I cannot reflect pon such an ’ t eres tin b e fe tch ed ' a g su ject unmoved Her she deep sigh , that w as accompanied by a flood of tears ; while the knigh t conti nued to bend his eyes upon her with the utmost e ager

s of a nes ttention . f f Having recollected hersel a little , she endeavoured to shi t the convers ation Y ou have been abroad since I had the — plea sure to see you I hope you were agreeably amused in ’ ‘ ’ . a our your travels No , madam , s id hero , dropping his ’

a f a . IVhen he d , I have been un ortun te she, with the most a of ench nting sweetness benevolence , expressed her concern

' h a had a a his mi s to e r he been unh ppy , and her hope th t fortunes were not p a st remedy ; he lifted up his eyes,and

a h of fixing them upon her gain , wit a look tender dejection ; ’ off f of soul cut , said he , rom the possession what my

a for a was held most de r , I wished de th , and visited by dis

a —m h traction . I h ve been abandoned by my reason y yout ” is for ever blasted .

1 42 THE ADVE NTURES on

’ ’

not ou . f I know what y mean That atal sentence , said ‘ b e if own , not pronounced by your lips , at least written

f out for by your own air hand , which drove me an exile ’ ’ e f of ff ver rom the paradise your a ection . I would not , s he replied , do Sir Launcelot Greaves the injury to sup pose him capable of imposi tion ; but you talk of things to w hich I am an utter stranger . I have a right , sir , to demand of ou your honour , that y will not impute to m e your break off —I — — ing a connection , which would rather wish had ’ n ever Heaven and earth 3 what do I hear ? cried our im f passioned knight , have I not the bale ul letter to produce ’ What else but Miss Darnel s explicit and express declara tion could have destroyed the sweetest hope that ever cheer ed my soul ; could h ave obliged m e to resign all claim t o that felicity for which alone I wished to live ; could have filled my bosom with unutterable sorrow and despair ; could of f have even divested me reason , and driven me rom the of f a such society m en , a poor orlorn , w ndering lunatic, as you see me now prostrate at your feet all the blossoms of h of f i my yout withered, all the honours m y am ly de ” cayed E ’ n f l l Aurelia looki g wish u ly at her over , Sir, said she, you overwhelm me with amazement and anxiety you are o if : imposed up n , you have received any such letter you

if in are deceived, you thought Aurelia Darnel could be so ’ n f — sensible, u grate ul , and inconstant . s This la t word she pronounced with some hesitation , and

f a a ff a downcast look , while her ace underwent tot l su usion , ’ and the knight s heart began to palpitate with all the vio of lence emotion . He eagerly imprinted a kiss upon her in r e he hand , exclaiming , inter upt d phrase , Can it pos s l— a — l l—O —ible Heaven gr nt Sure this is no i lusion madam shall I call you my Aureli a ? My heart is bursting with f Y ou a thousand ond thoughts and presages . shall see that — dire paper which hath been the source of all my woes it — is the constant companion of my travels last night I nourish ‘ ’ ed f my chagrin with the perusal o its horrid contents . Aurelia expressed great impatience to view the cruel m s LAUNC ELOT GREAV E S . 1 18

fo for such him m be : rgery , she assured it ust but he could

not r f of e the g ati y her desire, till the arrival his s rvant with

o . a . p rtmanteau In the meantime, tea was c lled The lovers were s eated : he looked and languished ; she flushed and

fa : f an d ltered all was doubt and delirium , ondness flutter.

Their mutual disorder communicated itself to the kind ‘

i « hearted sympathizing Dolly, who had been witn ess to the n tervi ew ff th e of s cen , and deeply a ected with disclosure the e . s f es Unspeakable was her surpri e , when she ound her mistr s ,

n a Miss Meadows , was no other tha the celebrated Aureli u ro Darnel , whose e logium she had heard so eloq uently p nounced ma dis by her sweetheart . Mr Tho s Clarke ; a cov r ff e y which still more endeared her l ady to her a ection .

She had wept plentifully at the progress of their mutual ex‘

an d now c e planation , was so discon erted , that she scarc knew the meaning of the orders she had received : she set

- on a b on . the kettle the t ble , and placed the tea oard the fire f of e Her con usion , by attracting the notice her mistr ss, w helped to relieve her from her o n embarrassing situ ation .

own c a of She, with her delicate hands , re tified the mist ke

l s ob Y aw ma Do ly, who still continued to , and said , y ’ t a a haw eaten - e e hink , my Le dy D rnel , as I ave y hool che s ’ ’ ’ how soa . I s e e but it y ant think, vor mai peart, as I aiv ’ been bewitched . Sir L auncelot could not help s miling at the simplicity of

D o of olly , whose g odness heart and attachment Aurelia did not f . It in ail to extol , as soon as her back was turned was n of sh e co sequence this commendation , that , the next time e t our for eon~ n ered the room , adventurer , the first time , sidered f f a s . her ace , and seemed to be struck with her e ture He e not r ask d her some questions, which she could answe to a fa i a e for his s tis ct on ; pplaud d her regard her lady , and assured her of his friendship and protection . He now beg ged to know the cause that obliged his Aureli a to travel at su a a f d ch a r te , and in such an equip ge ; and she in orme him of those particulars which we have already communi c ated to the reader . 1 44 R S or , THE ADVENTU E

r: Sir Launcelot glowed with resentment , when he unde stood h ow his dear Aurelia had been oppressed by her per

'

fidious cruel uardian . and g He bit his nether lip , rolled his f and ‘ s eyes around , started rom his seat , striding acros " ’ — I b a of the room , remem er , s id he, the dying words

n ow a a her who is s int in heaven That violent man , ’ - in - law ua t my brother , who is Aurelia s sole g rdian , will thwar her wishes with every obstacle that brutal resentment and im f w d can . placable malice contrive What ollo ed , it woul

ill become me to repeat but she concluded with these words , The rest we must leave to the dispensations of Provi ” - ' d u e . e c Was it not Providence that sent me hither, to guard and protect the injured Aurelia ? ’ Then turning to

Miss Darnel , whose eyes streamed with tears , he added , ! f l of f Yes , divine creature Heaven , care u your sa ety , i n ff and in compass o to my su erings , hath guided me hither, f ou f m in this mysterious manner, that I might de end y ro

an d f to violence , enjoy this transition rom madness delibera ’

fr m f . tion , o despair to elicity

So f ‘ . saying, he approached this amiable mourner , this rag

r w of - of ant flo er beauty , glittering with the dew drops the

of morning ; this sweetest , and gentlest , loveliest ornament human nature : he gazed upon her with looks of love ins effable ; he sat down by her ; he pressed her soft hand in his ; he began to fear that all he saw was the flattering vi of sion a distempered brain ; he looked and sighed , and ,

o turning up his eyes to heaven , breathed , in br ken murmurs , of the chaste raptures of his soul . The tenderness this com

ni i f . mu cat on was too pain ul to be long endured Aureli a. e of his industriously interpos d other subjects discourse , that the attention might not be dangerously overcharged, and

afternoon passed insensibly away . de termined in e Though he had , . his own mind , never mor of not to quit this idol his soul , they had yet concerted any of w plan conduct, hen their happiness was all at once inter r u ted of p by a repetition cries , denoting horror ; and a ser i vant coming in , sa d he believed some rogues were murder

i ng a traveller on the highway . The supposition of such

1 46 TH E ADVE N TURE S or?

if his ears , neighed , and quickened his pace , as he had been f ’ ’ o a f. sensible the squire s distress , and h stened to his relie

a own l not Sir Launcelot , notwithst nding his disquiet, cou d h elp observing and a dmiring this generous sensibility of his

: f of horse he began to think himsel some hero romance,

a mounted upon a winged steed, inspired with re son , direct

a . ed by some humane ench nter, who pitied virtue in distress

‘ no a All circumstances considered , it is wonder th t the com motion in the mind of our adventurer produced some such

delirium . All night he continued the chase ; the voice,

a f which was repe ted at intervals, still retreating be ore him ,

l r a a ti l the mo ning began to ppe r in the east , when , by divers

w as of a piteous groans , he directed to the corner wood , where he beheld his miserable ’squire stretched upon the

f a grass , and Gilbert eeding by him ltogether unconcerned ,

- and the helmet and the lance suspended at the saddle bow,

the portmanteau safely fixed upon the crupper .

Crabshaw The knight , riding up to , with equal surprise ? and concern , asked what had brought him there and Ti

af a mothy , ter some p use, during which he surveyed his mas f ’ l. ter with a rue ul aspect , answered , The devi One ’ i ou e a would magine , indeed , y had som such convey nce, f s aid Sir L auncelot . I have ollowed your cries since last w n or evening , I kno not how , whither, and never could

t . s a come up with you ill this moment But , y, what damage ou “ a have y sustained , that you lie in th t wretched posture , ” ’ ’ ’ and F groan so dismally I can t guess , replied the squire , ’ if a oile t it be n t that mai hoole carcass is drilled into holes , and my flesh pinched into a jelly How ! wherefore !’ cried the knight who were the miscreants that treated you in ? such a barbarous m anner Do you kno w the ruffians I ’ ’ w a kno nothing at all , nswered the peevish squire , but that I wa s tormented by vive hundred and v ifty thousand ’ ’ ’ of an legions devils , and there s end oon t . Well , you ’ a a C ra bshaw— fo must have little p tience, there s a salve r ’ . Y aw for zow every sore mought as well tell ma , every ’ ’

- there s a zir reverence . For a man in your condition , me, — thinks you talk very much at your ease Try if you can get 1 N s rR LAUNCEL OT GREAVE S. 4 1

to e up and mount Gilbert, that you might be conveyed som — — place where you can have proper assistance . So well don e —cheerly l a n ff f n Timothy actua ly made e ort to rise , but ell dow again , and uttered a dismal yell . Then his master exhorted of him to take advantage a pack wall , by which he lay , and

m f a a . Crabsh aw him raise hi sel gr du lly upon it , eyeing b of for his askance, said , y way reproach , not alighting and s in Th atch our t as isting him . person , y house with _ ’ ” v and you ll h a e more teachers than rea chers . Having pro noun ced a h e f a n this ineleg nt adage, made shi t to st nd upo t his legs ; and now , the knight lending a hand , was moun e d Q ilbert h n ot of ob s ! and upon , thoug without a world ab of s ! and other ejaculations pain and impatience .

on our a As they jogged together, dventurer endeavoured to learn the particulars of the disaster which had befallen the ’ all f a a squire ; but the in ormation he could obt in , mounted f of to a very imper ect sketch of the adventure . By dint a

a Cr absh aw had thousand interrog tions , he understood , that been , in the preceding evening, encountered by three per on a a on fa sons horseb ck, with Venetian m sks their ces,

for a f which he mistook their n tural eatures , and was terrified accordingly : tha t they not only presented pistols to his

and out of breast, led his horse the highway ; but pricked f m him with goads , and pinched him , ro time to time , till he screamed with the torture : th a t he was led through un s f u req ented places across the country , sometimes at an easy f trot , sometimes at ull gallop, and tormented all night by

da - ft these hideous demons , who vanished at y break , and le him lying on the spot where he was found by his master . This was a mystery which our hero could by no means ’ : a a had unriddle it was the more un ccount ble, as the squire

of a . not been robbed his money , horses , and bagg ge He ’ n Crabshaw s a was eve disposed to believe , that br in was dis ordered , and the whole account he had given no more than re a chimera . This opinion , however, he could no longer

- and f t ain when at on a , , , ' he arrived an inn the post ro d ound ’ u w e pon examination , that Timothy s lo er extremities wer 1 48 THE ADVENTURE S or

c o all f k d overed with blo d , and the rest o his body spec le

.w a of w as h a o ith livid m rks contusion . But he still more c

rin ed e l w as g wh n the andlord told him , that he thirty miles

‘ f w h e h ad f a an d distant rom the place here le t Aureli , that

- la - a a im as s his way y through cross ro ds , which were lmost p

at a of a a t able that se son the year . Al rmed this intelligence , ’ he gave direct i ons th at his squire sh ould be immedi a tely

f a a a s a conveyed to bed in a com ort ble ch mber , he compl in

and w as f ed more and more ; , indeed , seized with a ever,

f a had u occasioned by the atigue , the p in , and terror he nder

. A a a a gone neighbouring pothec ry being c lled , and giving

a s a for a it his opinion , th t he could not some d ys be in a

a e a s um of in condition to tr vel , his mast r deposited money a a his h nds , desiring he mi oght be properly ttended till he

a f th en Bronzomar te h e s e t should he r urther : mounting ,

' out uide for a f a with a g the pl ce he had le t , not without

a f a f thous nd e rs and perplexities , arising rom the reflection of havmg left the jewel of his heart with s uch precipita~ i t on .

CHAPTER XVI .

' i V/n clz it is ho ed the r ea der will nd a n a r eea ble medle , p , fi g y '

( mzr t/z a n d ma dness s ens e a nd a bs ur di t . f , y

IT was not without reason that our adventurer afflicted him

f f a ro he tic . at sel ; his e rs were but too p p When he aligb hted i nn f b recedin the , which he had le t so a ruptly the p g eve in ran g, he directly to the apartment where he had been so ’ — h appy in Aureli a s company ; but her he saw not all was

. of fol solitary Turning to the woman the house , who had ’ l th e a ? owed him into room , Where is the l dy cried he , a of u fe a in tone impatience . Mine hostess , screwing p her

a a s a w tures into very demure aspect , s id she so many la

w a . dies , she could not pretend to kno who he me nt I tell ’ a a thee, wom n , exclaimed the knight , in louder accent , ' — thou never sawest such another I mean that miracle of

1 50 THE ADVENTURE S or

f . ot vant , to ollow with a third chaise which was g ready w ith all possible dispatch , while the other two proceeded at full speed on the road to London . It was by this communi cative lacquey the people of the house were informed that ’ old a a the gentlem n his m ster was Squire Darnel , the young

a our l dy his niece and ward, and adventurer a needy sharper, f f who wanted to make a prey o her ortune . f The knight , fired even almost to renzy by this intima of tion , spurned the carcase his host ; and , his eye gleam ing terror, rushed into the yard , in order to mount Bron z mar te a fr m o and pursue the r visher, when he was diverted o his purpose by a new incident .

of had i n One the postillions , who driven the chaise which

ll a a Do y was conveyed , happened to rrive at th t instant ;

n our r an whe , seeing hero, he up to him , cap in hand , and , ‘ e in : presenting a l tter, accosted him these words Please if your noble honour, your honour be Sir Launcelot Greaves ’ of f the West Riding, here s a letter rom a gentlewoman , ’ w ’ that I promised to deliver into your honour s o n hands . t The knight, snatching the letter with the u most avidi t f e e y, broke it up , and ound the contents couched in th s terms

E D IR H ONOUR S , ’ TH E man az g i e n me le ave to lat yaw knaw my dea r leady

- B is g oing to Loondon w ith h e r uncle Sq uaire Darnel . e not ’ c on z arne d h a laife aw , onoured sir, vor I se t ke it on mai to let y

aw h w e b e z e ttle d if z o be c an d h . ou loa e kn w eare— , I vin w ere y g i n Loo udou The m an z ays yaw may p ut it in th e p ooblic —I h the bar he i h ff h prints . oup e r w ill be onest enu to deliver t is scrowl and that your honour w ill pardon Y our umbil servant to command ’ s DOROTHY Cow m r .

’ ‘ m r u . . a k in l e r a S P S Ple se y a d s e rvice to aay Cl ke . q ire ’ ’ D arnel s man is very civil vor s artai n b ut l ave no thoughts on ’ - him I ll aw . a ha w s ma h v a b assure y M rry p, or e ware y a e etter ’

the z a in . chap, as y g goes SI R U CE LO T 1 51 LA N GREAVE S .

Nothing could be more seasonable than the delivery of

h h ad r eflec this billet, whic he no sooner perused than his tion returned , and he entered into a serious deliberation with his own heart . He considered that Aurelia was by this time far a of beyond possibility being overtaken , and that by a

own infirmi ies precipitate pursuit he should only expose his t . of He confided in the attachment his mistress , and in the of fi f fidelity her maid, who would nd opportunities o com municatin of f g her sentiments by means this lacquey, o whom be perceived by the letter she had already made a f conquest . He there ore resolved to bridle his impatience ,

n of to proceed leisurely to Londo , and , instead taking any ras h step which might induce Anth ony Darnel to remove is f h niece rom that city , remain in seeming quiet until she r should be settled , and her guardian retu ned to the country .

him of Kawdle Aurelia had mentioned to the name Doctor , and from him he expected in due time to receive the most interesting information . These reflections had an instantaneous effect upon our hero , whose rage immediately subsided, and whose visage gradually resumed its natural cast of courtesy and good f h n humour . He orthwit gratified the postillio with such a him remuneration as sent dancing into the kitchen , where he did not fail to extol the generosity and immense fortune of

Sir Launcelot Greaves . ’ O ur adventurer s next step was to see Bron zomar te pro perly accommodated ; then he ordered a refreshment for f h himsel , and retired into an apartment, where mine host wit his wife and all the servants waited on him to beseech his f honour to orgive their impertinence, which was owing to ’ of fa f their ignorance his honour s quality , and the lse in orm ’ ation they had received from the gentleman s servant . He had too m uch magnanimity to retain the least resentment

a e against such inconsiderable objects . He not only p rdon d a them without hesitation , but assured the l ndlord he would

b for w as a a be accounta le the horse, which , however, th t s me h ad f evening brought home by a country man , who ound e him pounded as i t were within the walls of a ruined cottag . 52 THE ADVE NTURES or

As the knight had been greatly fa tigued without enjoying

for - - f b e any rest eight and orty hours , resolved to indulge

’ ' f n himsel with one ight s repose , and then return to the pl ace ’ where he h ad left his squire indisposed ; for by this time even his concern for Timothy h ad recurred .

a of his own f On a c ndid scrutiny heart , he ound him self much less unh appy th an he had been before his inter

for of f view with Aurelia ; , instead being as ormerly tor mented a of with the p ngs despairing love , which had ac tuall u a y unsettled his nderstanding , he was now h ppily cons v in ced th a t he had inspired the tender breast of Aurelia with m utual affection ; and though she w as invidiously snatched from his embrace in the midst of such endearments as had a wound up his soul to ecstacy and tr nsport , he did no doubt of being able to rescu e her fr om the power of an inhuman

a a of kinsm n , _ whose guardi nship would soon course expire ; and in the meantime he rested with the most perfect de pende n ce on her constancy an d virtue . A s b e da a on h next y crossed the country , rumin ting t e ’

h ad fa . disaster that be llen the squire , and could now com pare circumstances coolly , he easily comprehended th e of a whole scheme th t adventure , which was no other than an artifice of Anthony D arnel an d his emissaries to draw him f u rom the inn , where he proposed to execute his design pon

for the innocent Aurelia . He took it granted that the uncle, ’ a a having been made cqu inted with his niece s elopement, had followed her track by the h elp of such inform ation as

f on e a an d a he received, rom stage to nother ; th t , receiving m at ore particulars the White Hart touching Sir Launcelot, he had formed the scheme in which Cr abs haw w as an inv o l a of untary instrument tow rds the seduction his master . f and a Amusing himsel with these other cogit tions , our

f a of a hero in the a ternoon reached the pl ce his destin tion , and entering the inn where Timothy h a d been left a t Sick

a quarters , chanced t o meet the pothecary retiring preci pitately in a very unsavoury pickle from the ch amber of his f ’ a . a a o p tient When he inquired bout the he lth his squire , d f the h this retainer to me icine, wiping himsel all while wit

1 54 TH E ADVE NTURES or

- for thing but water gruel , because it is good the constitution . ’ a i Thank God , I h ve as good a constitution as e er a man n for a f England, but all th t, I and my whole amily bleed and

- a- of purge , and take a diet drink twice year, by way serv ’

. ing the, pothecary , who is a very honest man , and a very good neighbour . Their conversation was interrupted by the return of the ha d of facul apothecary with the doctor, who very little the ty in his appearance . He was dressed rem arkably plain ; me d ' to of f h ad a a ai r s ee be turned fi ty ; c reless , and a sar f cas tical turn in his countenance . Be ore he entered the sick ’ a m n s chamber, he asked some questions concerning the dis

an d a own ease ; when the apothec ry , pointing to his head, ’ a all s id , It lies here, the doctor, turning to Sir Launcelot, ll ’ ’ If a . replied, that be there s nothing in it

a Upon a more p rticular inquiry about the symptoms , he the was u was told that blood seemingly viscous , and salt p on the tongue ; the urine remarkably acrosaline ; and the

o faeces atrabilious and f etid . When the doctor said he would engage to find the s ame phenomena in every healthy man of

a the three kingdoms , the apothecary added, that the p tient

a f ff was m ni estly comatous, and moreover a licted with grip f f ing pains and borborygmata . A or your borboryg ’

a . e mat , cried the physician What has b en done To

v enaesection this question , he replied, that had been three times performed ; th a t a vesicatory had been applied i n ter s cap ula s ; that the patient h ad taken occasionally of a ca ar tic n th apozem , and, betwee whiles , alexipharmic boluses ’ ’

a . a and neutr l draughts Neutr l , indeed, said the doctor ; if so neutral , that I will be crucified ever they declare either ’ for or . the patient the disease So saying, he brushed into ’ Crabshaw s f our chamber, ollowed by adventurer, who was uff almost s ocated a t his first entrance . The day was close ; the window- shutters were fastened ; a huge fire blazed in the chimney ; thick hara teen curtains were close drawn round ’ S an the bed , where the wretched quire lay extended under of wh o h d all . a enormous load blankets The nurse, the of in in exteriors a bawd given to drink, sat stew g this apart T S IR LAUNCEL O GREAVES . 1 55 ment like a damned some infernal bagnio but rising ’ when the company made her cour t s ies with great ’

. a decorum Well , said the doctor, how does your p tient, ’ ? B God for a f — nurse lessed be it , I hope in air way to — be sure his apozem has had a blessed effect fi ve - and- twenty ’ ’ — a w uld stools since three o clock in the morning But then , o — not suffer the blisters to be put upon hi s thigh s Good lack ! ’ a obs tro olous out of a has been mort lly p , and his senses all ’ ’ ’ ’ this blessed day . You lie , cried the squire, I an t out ’ ’ f f a f o . my seven senses , tho I m h l mad with vexation n e s The doctor havi g withdrawn the curtain , the hapl s ’ squire appeared very pale and ghastly ; and , having sur v e e d f h im: in y his master with a rue ul aspect , addressed

. : these words Sir knight , I beg a boon be pleased to tie

of a a stone about the neck the apothecary, and a h lter abou t

of - on e the neck the nurse , and throw the into the next river,

in ou and the other over the next tree, and , so doing, y will do a charitable deed to your fellow- creatures for he and she ’ do the devil s work in partnership, and have sent many a

’ of f ! s core their betters home to him be ore their time . Oh — ’ he begins to talk sensibly Have a good heart , said the ? physician . What is your disorder Physic What ’ ’ ou of ? do y chiefly complain The doctor . Does your ’ head ach Yea , with impertinence . Have you a pain i ? ’ ’ n . your back Yes , where the blister lies Are you ’ f e sick at stomach Yes , with hunger . Do you e l any ’ a f u s hiverings Alw ys at sight o the apothecary . Do yo ’ perceive any load in your bowels ? I would the apothe ’ ’ ’ a ‘ ? N ot c ry s conscience was as clear . Are you thirsty ’ a - a thirsty enough to drink b rley water . Be ple sed to look ’ f a ot into his auces , said the apothec ry ; he has g a rough ’ ’

f . l a tongue , and a very oul mouth , I ll assure you h ve

a of fa known that the c se with some limbs the culty, where — of of . they stood more in need correction than physic Well , ‘ f ou alr ead under on e ro my honest riend , since y have y g the p f per purgations in due orm , and say you have no other dis n n ease tha the doctor, we will set you on your legs agai w f . without urther question Here, nurse, open that windo , 1 56 THE ADVE NTURES OF

w s w rs and thro these phial into the street . Now lo er the cu

a eas e men t not t in , without shutting the , that the man may w fl i n o n . the l a o be stifled his steam In next p ace, t ke two

h s of a of a s —H ow t ird these co ls , and one third these bl nket

f a f a - if so dost eel now , my he rt I should eel he rt whole , ’ noor se a th e be as yow would throw the ter the bottles , and ’ ’ a a n oorse a nd oorder a of pothec ry ter the , me pound chops for for h oon r be my dinner ; I be so g y, I could eat a horse ’ hind the s addle .

a e a of own The pothecary , se ing wh t passed , retired his

a of h . accord , holding up his h nds in sign astonis ment The

bs ha w w h . ra nurse as dismissed in the same breat C rose ,

f h a a an d a dressed himsel wit out ssist nce , made a hearty me l h V w on the first eatable t a t presented itself to ie . The knight

a f p ssed the evening with the physician , who , rom his first

a w as mad in of appear nce , concluded he ; but, the course

f a the conversation , ound means to resign th t opinion without

an of a adopting y other in lieu it , and p rted with him under f n all th e a o . o imp tience curiosity The knight, his part, was very well entertained with the witty sarcasms and erudi

of w h o a a of tion the doctor, ppe red to be a sort cynic philo h sopher; tinctured with misanthropy , and at open war wit

of a the whole body pothecaries , whom , however, it was by

a s no me n his interest to disoblige .

da C rabsh aw all f Next y, , being to appearance per ectly h recovered , our adventurer reckoned wit the apothecary ,

a out on for p id the landlord , and set his return the London

a la a a t ro d , resolving to y side his armour some distance f for rom the metropolis ; , eversince his interview with Aurelia, f his ondness for chivalry had been gradually aba ting . As the torrent of his despair had disordered the current of his sober reflection , so now , as that despair subsided , his thoughts a beg n to flow deliberately i n their ancient channel . All day long he regaled his imagination with plans of connubi al

a f o of h ppiness , ormed n the possession the incomparable

a th e law Aurelia ; determined to w it with patience , until

of he r an should supersede the authority guardian , rather th adopt any violent expedient which might hazard the interest of his passion .

1 58 TH E ADVE NTURES or

- - hop pole shod with iron , and a basket hilt broad sword , lik e

of a ff that Hudibr s , depended by a broad bu belt , that gird

f f - cd . a his middle His eet were de ended by j ck boots , and his h ands by the gloves of a trooper . Sir Launcelot would be not loss time in examining particulars , as perceived some

f had at mischie been done, and that the enemy had rallied a d a f a f l ist nce ; he there ore comm nded Crowe to ol ow him , and rode off with great expedition ; but he did not perceive ’ his squire was taken prisoner ; nor did the captain recollect

' a Tom and th t his nephew , Clarke , had been disabled se h f f in t e o . r cured beginning the ray The truth is, the poo

a h ad L a capt in been so el boured about the pate, that it was a hi wn wonder he remembered s o name.

CHAPTER XVI I .

Conta in ing a dven tur es of chi va lry equally n ew a nd in s urp r i s g . T HE knight Sir Launcelot, and the novice Crowe , retreated with equal order and expedition to the distance of half a

f of f league rom the field battle, where the ormer , halting , proposed to make a lodgment i n a very decent house of e n t t er tainment of S . of Ca , distinguished by the sign George p adocia h p encountering the dragon , an achievement in whic temporal and spiritual chivalry were happily reconci led . Two s uch figures a lighting at the inn gate did not pass through the yard unnoticed and unadmired by the guests and

of fa on attendants ; some whom irly took to their heels , the supposition th at these outlandish creatures were the avant f couriers or heralds of a French invasion . The ears and of n doubts , however , those who ventured to stay were soo in dispelled , when our hero accosted them the English n tongue , and with the most courteous demea our desired to

w n be she n into a apartment . H ad a a a s u Capt in Crowe been spokesm n , perh ps their

icion s a for in p would not h ve so quickly subsided he was , y realit , a very extraordinary novice, not only in chivalry S IR L L AUNCE OT GREAVES . 9 but in i also his external appearance, and particularly n those

of di alects the English language which are used by the ter. a of res tri al anim ls this kingdom . He desired the ostler to in tow hi take his horse , and bring m to his moorings in a

o a f . sa e riding He rdered the w iter , who shewed them into a parlour, to bear a hand , ship his oars , mind his helm ,

- a of or and bring along side short allowance brandy grog, that he might cant a slug into his bread - room for there was such a heaving and pitching, that he believed he should f shift his ballast . The ellow understood no part of this ad d e br an d of dis r ss but the word y , at mention which he ap

eared . f - p Then Crowe , throwing himsel into an elbow chair, ’ ’ ’ stop my hawse holes , cried he, I can t think what s the matter, brother ; but , egad , my head sings and sim m of - ers like a pot chowder . My eye sight yaws to and ’ ’ : n s uch again , d ye see the there s a walloping and whush

— m — a ing in my hold smite y Lord h ve mercy upon us . ’ ’ ou — Here, y swab, ne er mind a glass hand me the noggin . of The latter part this address was directed to the waiter, of e who had returned with a quartern brandy , which Crow

n - s atching eagerly , started into his bread room at one cant .

a Indeed there was no time to be lost, in smuch as he seemed to be on the verge of fainting away when he swallowed this w as a cordial , by which he instant neously revived . He then desired the servant to unbuckle the straps of his helmet ; but this was a task which the drawer could not per f offi ces of a orm , even though assisted with the good Sir L un celot ; for the head and j aws were so much swelled with the d d iscipline they had un ergone , that the straps and buckles la f f of y buried , as it were, in pits ormed by the tume action a the adjacent p rts . for Fortunately the novice , a neighbouring surgeon pass ed by the door on horseback ; a circumstance which the f w waiter , who saw him rom the windo , no sooner disclosed ,

racti than the knight had recourse to his assistance . This p tione r the a having viewed whole figure , and more particul rly of f the head Crowe , in silent wonder, proceeded to eel his pulse ; and then declared that as the inflammation was very TH E ADVE N TURE S OF

and on a cme be great , going with violence to its , it would

a b h and n ecess ry to egin wit copious phlebotomy , then to

' th e a a a . a a empty intestin l c n l So s ying , he beg n to strip the

ar m of th e ' ca tain e aim a a p , who p rceiving his , v st , bro ’ r h e the — ma ther, c ied , you go wrong way to work you y

a s a af a well rumm ge the terhold , when the dam ge is in the ’

w . f a . a a a a are orec stle I sh ll right g in , when my j s unhooped

h h e a a - f f m Wit these words drew cl sp kni e ro his pocket,

a va a a a and , d ncing to gl ss , pplied it so vigorously to the

a of - a leathern str ps his head piece , th t the gordian knot was

w 1th out a n a a fa a cut , , y other d m ge to his ce th n a moderate

rification f of f t s ca , which , added to the tume action ea ures , ’ a of na tur lly strong , and a whole week s growth a very d on a bushy beard , pro uced , the whole , a most hideous c ri

f all w as for a r a . ca tu A ter , there a necessity the dministra

of f v ff tion the surgeon , who ound di ers contusions on di er

of w ca ent parts the skull , hich even the tin p had not been f of able to protect rom the weapons the rustics .

a s ccm zdem a r tem These being sh ved and dressed , and the

a h our oper tor dismissed wit a proper acknowledgment , ! knight deta ched one of the post - boys to the fi eld of action

’ ‘ for a intelligence concerning Mr Cl rke , and squire Timo

w a a thy ; and , in the interim , desired to kno the p rticul rs ’ of Crowe s adventures since he parted from him at the White

Hart . A in connected relation , plain English , was what he had

li ttle r eas on f to expect rom the novice , who nevertheless

e fa for ex rted his culties to the uttermost his satisfaction .

u a in to He gave him to nderstand , th t steering his course a m of f Birmingh , where he thought fitting himsel with tackle,

fa he had llen in , by accident , at a public house , with an

of : a itinerant tinker, in the very act mending a kettle th t,

him a h ad» seeing do his business like an ble workman , he

l for a an d f a con app ied to him dvice ; the tinker, a ter h ving s ider e d th e h ad a a him subject , undert ken to m ke such a

of a s h a a : suit armour , neit er sword nor l nce should penetr te

a a a th t they djourned to the next town , where the le ther e of coat, the plat s tinned iron , the lance, and the broad

1 62 TH E ADVE N TURE S O F

o him n that alm st sent to the bottom , and the towed off he k new not whither .

‘ Crowe had scarce finished his narration , which consisted of n e s of sea - broken hints , and uncon ect d explo ions terms,

of a when a gentleman the neighbourhood , who cted in the of a commission the peace, arrived at the gate , attended by

of constable, who had in custody the bodies Thomas Clarke

Crabsh aw on and Timothy , surrounded by five men horse

a a of d b ck , and an innumer ble posse men , women , and chil ren ,

- on f . a oot The captain , who alw ys kept a good look out,

n a no soo er descried this cav lcade and procession , than he ul gave notice to Sir Launcelot, and advised that they sho d a a a adv en crowd w y with all the s il they could carry . Our of turer was another opinion , and determined, at any rate, f to procure the enlargement o the prisoners . the The justice, ordering his attendants to stay without gate, sent his compliments to Sir Launcelot Greav es, and him f w im desired to speak with or a fe minutes . He was of mediately admitted , and could not help staring at sight of n Crowe , who , by this time, had no remains the huma w the physiognomy , so much was the s elling increased , and

. was skin discoloured The gentleman , whose name Mr for b had Elmy , having made a polite apology the li erty he

f . f ~ taken , proceeded to un old his business He said , in orma

h ad of tion been lodged with him , as a justice the peace, a on gainst two armed men horseback , who had stopped ’ fa on f a five rmers the king s highway , put them in e r and

of an d a danger their lives, even ass ulted , maimed , and ’ wounded divers persons , contrary to the king s peace, and i n of a : he violation the st tute that, by the description , s upposed the knight and his companion to be the persons against whom the complaint ha d been lodged ; and under

‘ f h ad known standing his quality rom Mr Clarke , whom he

was if in London , he come to wait upon him , and possible, ff e ect an accommodation . Our adventurer having thanked him for the polite and f n him obliging manner in which he proceeded , ra kly told the whole story , as it had been just related by the captain ; m UN T R s LA CELO G EAVE S . 1 63

’ and Mr Elmy had no reason to doubt the truth of the nar r tive a , as it confirmed every circumstance which Clarke had Tom f . e be ore reported Inde d , had been very communica him tive to this gentleman , and made acquainted with the of whole history Sir Launcelot Greaves , as well as with the of n whimsical resolution his uncle , Captai Crowe . Mr now the n E lmy told k ight , that the persons whom the cap t f r re f m ain had stopped, were a mers turning ro a neighbour of ing market , a set people naturally boorish , and at that time elevated with ale to an uncommon pitch of insolence one of m that the in particular, called Prickle, was the most f w the quarrelsome ello in whole county ; and so litigiou s,

- that he had maintained above thirty law suits, in eight - and t of had wenty which he been condemned in costs . He said the others might be e asily influenced in the way of admoni n of a tio ; but there was no way de ling with Prickle, except by the form and authority of the law : he therefore proposed to hear evidence in a judicial capacity , and his clerk being in e t was e i attendanc , the cour immediat ly opened n the ’ knight s apartment . By this time Mr Clarke had made such good use of his e a the law tim in expl ining to his audience, and displaying the great wealth and unbounded liberality of Sir Launcelot l to Greaves , that he had actual y brought over his senti a ments the const ble and the commonalty , tag, rag, and bob- of f tail , and even staggered the majority the armers , who re , at first , had breathed nothing but defiance and venge . Farmer Stake being first called to the bar, and sworn touching the identity of Sir Launcelot Greaves and n Captai Crowe , declared , that the said Crowe had stopped ’ on him in f a him the king s highway , and put bodily e r that he afterwards s aw the said Crowe with a pole or wea ’ on p , value three pence, breaking the king s peace, by com mitting assault and battery against the heads and shoulders ’ of ff his majesty s liege subjects , Geo rey Prickle, Hodge Dolt,

Richard Bumpkin , Mary Fang , Catharine Rubble, and

Margery Litter ; and that he saw Sir Launcelot Greaves, f baronet, aiding, assisting , and com orting the said Crowe, 1 54 THE ADVENT URE S O F

’ a and a f m of the contrary to the king s pe ce , ag inst the or statute . a if f Being sked , the de endant , when he stopped them ,

or a l ? demanded their money , thre tened vio ence he answer

couldm ot s a a as f a ed , he y, in smuch the de end nt spoke in if f a e . a an unknown langu g Being interrog ted , the de end

ant did not allow them to pass without using any violence, and if they did not p ass unmolested ? the deponent replied

‘ in the affirm a tive : being required to tell for wh at reason

a nd if f a n ot a they returned , the de end nt , Crowe, was ass ult

f a a ed be ore he beg n to use his we pon , the deponent made f no answer . The depositions o farmer Bumpkin and Mug

a s of a e gins , well as Madge Litter and Mary F ng, wer taken to much the s ame purpose ; and his worship earnest l m a at y exhorted the an accommod tion , observing, th [to fa th e a an d they themselves were in ct ggressors , that Cap tain Crowe had done no more than exerted himself in his bwn defence . t o f They were all pretty well disposed ollow his advice, f except armer Prickle, who , entering the court with a bloody f handkerchie about his head, declared that the law should ’ determine it at next size ; and in the meantime insisted that

f or the de endants should find immediate bail , go to prison , f n or be set in the stocks . He a firmed that they had bee of a r a guilty an f y , in appearing with armour and weapons u of w in f not us ally worn , to the terror others , hich is itsel

a of breach the peace ; but that they had moreover , with

f of and orce arms , that is to say , with swords , staves , other

w a arlike instruments , by turns , made an assault and W y , to the terror and disturbance of him and divers subjects of

our and lord the king, then and there being , and to the evil pernicious example of the liege people of the said lord the

k a of our ing , and ag inst the peace said lord the king, his

crown , and dignity .

The peasant h ad purchased a fe w law - terms at a consider

a an d ble expense, he thought he had a right to turn his know f ll o a . ledge to the annoyance his neighbours Mr Elmy , finding him obstinately deaf to all proposals of accommoda

1 66 THE ADVENTURE S or

m of th e paroxys rage, during which he inveighed against

a bench , reviled the two adventurers err nt , declared that he

of believed, and would lay a wager twenty guineas, that he ’ had more money in his pocket than e er a man in the com

a of of pany ; and in the sp ce a quarter an hour, swore f f . B e orty oaths, which the justice did not ail to number f ’ ore we proceed to other matters, said Mr Elmy , I order

ou f s for y to pay orty shilling the oaths you have swore , otherwise I will cause you to be set in the stocks without f ’ urther ceremony .

of Prickle, throwing down a couple guineas , with two e a d a h e execrations mor to make up the sum , decl re th t could ’ afford to pay for swearing as well as e er a justice in the of th h county , and repeated his challeng e e wager, whic our now adventurer accepted, protesting, at the same time, n ot n n of that it was a step take from a y motive pride, but e b who ntirely with a view to punish an insolent ple eian , could not otherwise be chastised without a breach of the n the peace . Twenty guineas being deposited o each side in of h hands Mr Elmy , Prickle, wit equal confidence and i d d spatch , produced a canvas bag, containing two hundre i and seventy pounds, wh ch , being spread upon the table, f of the made a very ormidable show, that dazzled the eyes f m in beholders , and induced many o the to believe he had s ured his conquest . if fu Our adventurer, asking he had any thing rther to off f h er, and being answered in the negative, . drew orth , wit

- in great deliberation , a pocket book , which there was a r of f m h e considerable pa cel bank notes , ro which selected of One u three hundred pounds each , and exhibited them p

on of . the table , to the astonishment all present Prickle , mad his w be with overthro and loss , said , it might necessary to make him prove the notes were honestly come by ; and u a Sir Launcelot started p, in order to take venge nce upon for re him this insult , but was withheld by the arms and of wh him monstrances Mr Elmy , o assured that Prickle

desired nothing so much as another broken head, to lay the f oundation of a new prosecution . IR 1 S LAUNCELOT GREAVE S. 6 7

m n The knight , cal ed by this in terposition , tur ed to the ff a udience, saying, with the most a able deportment, n ot i h c Good people, do magine t at I intend to po ket the

e a f s poils of such a cont mptible r scal . I shall beg the avour of n a this worthy gentlema to t ke up these twenty guineas , and distribute them as he shall think proper among th e poor of fa not m the parish ; but, by this bene ction , I do hold y s elf acquitted for the share I had in the br uises some of you f f have received in this unlucky ray , and there ore I give the t ff other twen y guineas to be divided among the su erers , to e ach according to the damage he or she shall appear to have s ustained ; and I shall consider it as an additional obliga ’

if . tion , Mr Elmy will likewise superintend this retribution

of At the close this address, the whole yard and gateway r w ung with acclamation , while honest Crowe, hose generosity not f i of was in er or even to that the accomplished Greaves, out be pulled his purse, and declared , that , as he had gun the engagement, he would at least go share and share alike in n ew caulking their sea ms and repairing their tim

an t bers . The knight , rather th enter into a dispu e with him u a his novice, told he considered the twenty g ine s as in given by them both conjunction , and that they would f on f con er together that subject herea ter . all s o This point being adjusted, Mr Elmy assumed the lemnit of f i y the magistrate, and addressed himsel to Pr ckle in these words Farmer Prickle, I am both sorry and ashamed to see a man of your years and circumstances

l ou ffi i for so ittle respected, that y cannot find su cient ba l forty pounds ; a sure testimony that you have neither cul

‘ tivate d f - of ou the riendship , nor deserved the good will y ioS neighbours . I have heard of your quarrels and your r ,

‘ f wisféd your insolence and litigious disposition , and o ten W’ for an opportunity of giving you a proper taste of the R S — w correction . That opportunity n ow offers you ha , in of f toren t O f the hearing all these people, poured orth a

h f en tle ' fm abuse against me, bot in the character o a g and of a rha s I a m gistrate ; your abusing me personally, r p

‘ s hould have overlooked with th e contempt it des s VOS ; but 1 68 TH E ADVENTURE S or?

I should ill vindicate the dign ity of my office as a magis ff trate, by su ering you to insult the bench with impunity .

f for ou h l I shall there ore imprison you contempt , and y s al

em ain i on rosecu~ in jail , until you can find ba l the other p ’ i t ons .

fi of Prickle, the rst transports his anger having subsided ,

began to be pricked with the thorns of compunction . He was indeed extremely mortified at the prospect of being sent f f f a l . a to jail so disgrace ul y His counten nce ell , and a ter

a th e in hard intern l struggle , while clerk was employed a w writing the mittimus , he s id he hoped his worship ould

a of our not send him to prison . He begged p rdon him and adventurers for havi ng abused th em in his passion ; and ob »

as a served , that he had received a broken he d , and paid two- - for f be and twenty guineas his olly, he could not said if to have escaped altogether without punishment , even the

ff a plainti should agree to exch nge releases . ff Sir Launcelot , seeing this stubborn rustic e ectually hum an a f bled , became advoc te in his avour with Mr Elmy and Tom f t mu Clarke, who orgave him a his request ; and a

fa was tual release being executed , the rmer permitted to de ’ r r part . The populace were regaled at ou adventu er s ex n pense ; and the men , women , and children , who had bee or of or wounded bruised in the battle , to the number ten a d l ozen , were desired to wait upon Mr E my in the morning,

’ ‘ to receive the knight s bounty . The justice was prevailed upon to spend the evening with Sir L auncelot and his two

a for t comp nions , whom supper was bespoke ; but the firs ’ th e for a thing cook prepared , was a poultice Crowe s he d, O ur vhich was now enlarged to a monstrous exhibition . h a ight, who was all kindness and compl cency , shook Mr

Ce e fa a t by the hand, expressing his satis ction meeting l Wi t i his old f a a f h ad riends g in , and told him so tly , that he

com ent for him f pim s rom Mrs Dolly Cowslip , who now " lived i th his Aurelia .

e» f af Clar , was con ounded at this intelligence , and ter ’ ’ s h eitation ! ome , Lord bless my soul cried he, I ll be ’ if a s shot then , the pretended Miss Me dows wan t the ame

1 70 . THE ADVENTURE S or

th e of his in his disposition , and in course amours, is said to have al ways taken more pleasure in the pursuit than in f ’ the final possession . He had heard o Sir Launcelot s ex trava ance f g , by which he was in some measure in ected , and he dropped an insinuation that he could eclipse his rival even in his own lunatic sphere . This hint was not lost upon ff f his companion , coun sellor, and bu oon , the acetious Davy

who h ad a a of f Dawdle , some humour and a gre t de l mischie

. f in his composition H e looked upon his patron as a ool , and his patron knew him to be both knave and fool ; yet the

a t two char c ers suited each other so well , that they could ful x . a but hardly e ist asunder D vy was an art sycophant , in w a on he did not flatter the usual y, the contrary , he be en ca vilier e on haved , and treat d Sycamore , whose bounty

u f . N ever th e he s bsisted , with the most sarcastic amiliarity e f f less, he season d his reedom with certain quali ying ingre dien s th e of t that subdued bitterness it , and was now become ’ a had of so necess ry to the squire , that he no idea enjoyment

’ or with which Dawdle was not somehow other connected . There had been a warm dispute betwixt them about the scheme of contesting the prize with Sir L auncelot in the lists

f if h - . e o chivalry Sycamore had insinuated , that had a f m mind to play the ool , he could wear ar our, wield a lance , d an . manage a charger , as well as Sir Launcelot Greaves ’ h ad Dawdle snatching the hint , I some time ago , said he , for ou af contrived a scheme y , which I was raid you had — not address enough to execute It would be no difficult m at of Sam ton o in ter, in imitation the bachelor p Carrasco , to g

of t- e f quest Greaves as a knigh rrant , de y him as a rival and

establish a compact , by which the vanquished should obey ’ ’ of the injunctions the victor . That is my very idea , cried ’ Sycamore . Your idea , replied the other, had you ever ’ of our own ? i an idea y conception Thus the d spute began ,

and was maintained with great vehemence , until other ar ’ uments f ff of g ailing , the squire o ered to lay a wager twenty

guineas . To this pr Oposal Dawdle answered by the inter jection p is h ! which inflamed Sycamore to a repetition of ’ the ‘ . Y ou in Daw defiance are the right, said dle , to use R SI LAUNCEL OT GREAVE S. 1 7 1

n a s uch a rgument as you know is by me unanswerable. A wager of twenty guineas will at any time overthrow and con f of e who ot ute all the logic the most abl syllogist, has not g ’ a shilling in his pocket . f Sycamore looked very grave at this declaration , and , a ter a I ou do a short pause, s id , wonder , Dawdle , what y with all your money I am surprised you should give yourself —I ’ that trouble never ask what you do with yours . You ’ n h ow have no occasio to ask , you know pretty well it goes . ’ d f - What, o you upbraid m e with your avours tis ’ m . D ighty well , Sycamore Nay , awdle, I did not intend ’ ’ ’ ’ ffr Z a to a ont . ounds ffront ! what d ye mean ? I ll as ’ s e ou D ou w if ur y avy , y don t kno me, you think I could — — ’ e s o n n to a ~ b u ge erous as to I always thought , what e f or f ou ver aults oibles you might have, Sycamore, that y — f n was not deficient in generosity , though to be sure it is o te ’ ‘ ’ . A one of very absurdly displayed y, that s my greatest ’ foibles ; I can t refuse even a scoundrel when I think he is in ’ - — . . s ir t want Here, Dawdle, take that note Not I , , wha ’ d e — but y mean , what right have I to your notes Nay , — ’ — . it e Dawdle, come By no means looks like the abus ’ of good- naturef - all the world knows you re good - natured to ’ — f . ou a ault Come, dear Davy, you shall y must oblige ’ h me . Thus urged , Dawdle accepted th e bank note wit

t . grea reluctance, and restored the idea to the right owner A suit of armour being brought from the garret or ar m of for oury his ancestors , he gave orders having the pieces s coured and furbi shed up ; and his heart dilated with joy when he reflected upon the superb figure he should make in for the when cased complete steel , and armed at all points

combat . D When he was fitted with the other parts , awdle insisted on on f buckling his helmet, which weighed fi teen pounds ; h o and the eadpiece being adjusted , made such a clatter ab ut f m his ears with a cudgel , that his eyes had almost started ro

their sockets . His voice was lost within the vizor, and his friend affected not to understand his meaning when he made s to e sign with his gauntlets, and endeavoured clos with him , 1 72 TH E ADVE N T URES or

that he might wrest the cudgel from his h and . At length ’ a a o its he desisted, saying , I ll w rr nt the helmet s und by ’ a i off f a ringing and t k ng it , ound the squire in cold sweat .

h ad He would have achieved his first exploit on the spot, a t his strength permitted him to assault D wdle ; but , wha a of an d h ad he with w nt air, the discipline he undergone, had well nigh swooned away ; and before be retrieved th e

of w as a a of use his members , he ppe sed by the apologies his

C a n to omp nion , who protested he meant othing more than

’ if w as f e of and w or try the helmet re cracks , hether not it would prove a good protection to the he ad it covered .

a th e a w as a His excuses were ccepted ; rmour p cked up ,

a m f and next morning Mr Syc ore set out rom his own house,

a a f accomp nied by D wdle, who undertook to per orm the part ’ of his Squire a t the appro a ching combat . He was also at

a a a of tended by serv nt on horseb ck , who had charge the ar

u a n d a . mo r, nother who blowed the trumpet They no soon

at er understood that our hero was housed the George , than h a a c the trumpeter sounded a charge, w ich l rmed Sir Laun e

and m a and a lot his co p ny , disturbed honest C ptain Crowe f w as en i n the middle o his first sleep . Their next step to p l a chal enge , which , when the stranger departed , was by the trumpeter delivered with gr eat ceremony into the hands of

i n . t Sir Launcelot , who read it these words To the knigh

of . a f ou e the Crescent , greeting Where s I am in ormed y hav the presumption to lay claim to the heart of the peerless A u relia Darnel , I give you notice that I can admit no rivalship in the affection of that paragon of beauty ; an d I expect th a t or a you will either resign your pretensions , m ke it appear ’ ba law of in in single com t, according to the arms , and the s titution s of h fa chivalry , t at you are worthy to dispute her ’ h m of ff D OR E P O LY . vour with i the Gri in .

a little ' sur ris e d h a Our dventurer was not a p at t is ddress , w h e a which ho ever pocketed in silence, and beg n to reflect, n ot mor tification a w a s a as a without , th t he tre ted a lun tic by

f t he i n firmi . some person , who wanted to amuse himsel with

f f l w- w o . ma a s a ties his e lo creatures Mr Tho s Cl rke , who m h the the cere ony with whic the letter was delivered, and

1 74: THE ADVE NTURES or

o h o knights would come to action , and slept sound n t at sup

n. f r positio But he rose be o e it was day , resolved to be some how concerned in the fray ; and understanding that the him wn stranger had a companion , set do immediately for own a his ant gonist . So impatient was he to establish this

S r a - econda y contest , th t by day break he entered the chamber of a D wdle , to which he was directed by the waiter, and r a oused him with a hillo , that might have been heard at

of f . a t the distance hal a league Dawdle , st r led by this ter rific u n out of on the so nd, spru g bed , and stood upright f e h floor, be ore he op ned his eyes upon the object by whic h ad f he been so dread ully alarmed . But when he beheld of w the head Crowe, so s elled and swathed , so livid, hideous, of and grisly , with a broad sword by his side, and a case of pistols in his girdle, he believed it was the apparition s a ome murdered man ; his hair bristled up , his teeth ch tter

: ed, and his knees knocked he would have prayed , but his ffi e n . i tongu de ied its o ce Crowe seeing his perturbat on , ’ f a ou for c mayhap , riend , s id he, y take me a buc aneer ; n but I am o such person . My name is Captain Crowe . I not for come your silver nor your gold , your rigging nor your stowage ; but hearing as how your friend intends to f ’ bring my riend Sir Launcelot Greaves to action , d ye see, I of f en a desire in the way riendship , that, while they are g g ou ed, y and I , as their seconds, may lie board and board ’ for few one . a glasses to divert another, d ye see Dawdle f hearing this request , began to retrieve his aculties , and throwing himself into the attitude of Hamlet when the ghost

appears , exclaimed in theatrical accent ,

Angels and ministers of grace defend us ’ A rt thou a s irit of race or ob in damn d p g , g l

b on a n be As he seemed to end his eye vacancy , the capt i s aw gan to think that he really something preternatural , f and stared wildly round . Then addressing himsel to the ’ ’ damn d for terrified Dawdle , , said he , what should I ’ d mn d P If f of be a you are a eard goblins , brother, put your ’ ’ ou . trust in the Lord , and he ll prove a sheet anchor to y

The other having by this time recollected himself perfectly . B. 1 S I LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 75

w s continued not ithstanding to spout tragedy, and in the word of Macbeth , pronounced,

Wha man dare I dare t , roach th ou i e th e ru ed Rus sia n bear App l k gg , ’ Th e arm d rhinoceros or r canian i er , H y t g ; a e an sh a e but th at and m fi rm nerv T k y p , y es ’ h never trem S all ble .

’ W n ‘ if are ames , Jack , cried the impatient mariner, so ’ as how f be you ll bear a hand and rig yoursel , and take a ffi ’ short trip with m e into the o ng, we ll overhaul this here ’ affair in the turning of a capstan . At this juncture they wer e joined by Mr Sycam ore in ’ - u his night gown and slippers . Dist rbed by Crowe s first

a . salute, he had sprung up , and now expressed no small sto ’ ishme t f n n at first sight o the novice s countenance . After

n e havi g gazed alternately at him and Dawdle, who hav ’ ? ’ we got here, said he, raw head and bloody bones when

‘ fr d S on his ien , lipping his clothes , gave him to understand

f of a n that this was a riend Sir Launcelot Greaves , and expl i u of d him o ed the p rport his erran , he treated with m re civility . He assured him that he should have the pleasure to break a spe ar with Mr Dawdle ; and signified his sur. pri s e that Sir Launcelot had not made an answer to his let.

t da - ter . It being by his time clear y light , and Crowe ex r in ffa r t emely interested this a ir, he b oke without ceremony ’ in the to the knight s chamber, and told him abruptly that " a for enemy had brought to, and w ited his coming up , in order ’ ’

n . a to begi the action I ve hailed his consort, said he, f for shambling chattering ellow he took me first a hobgoblin ,

’ ’ n a wr nose o ross 3 the called me names , tiger, a y , and Per ’ a if him sian bear ; but eg d , I come athwart him , I ll make look like the bear and ragged staff before we part—I wool This intimation was not received with that alacrity which a our who the c ptain expected to find in adventurer, told him in a peremptory tone, that he had no design to come to ir to f e f . action , and d s ed to be le t his repose Crowe orth

e - f with retir d crest allen , and muttered something, which was never distinctly heard . About eight in the morning Mr Dawdle brought him a 1 76 THE ADVE NTURES or

fe s f of f i h rmal mes age rom the knight the Gri fin , desir ng e

a of . would ppoint the lists , and give security the field To which request he m ade ans wer i n a very composed and a If solemn ccent , the person who sent you thinks I h ave

injured him , let him without disguise or any such ridiculous

of and ceremony , explain the nature the wrong ; then I shall h f m give suc satis action as ay suit my conscience and my chaf f racter . I he h ath bestowed his affection upon any partien

an d fa a lar object , looks upon me as a vourite riv l , I shall

not wrong the lady so much as to t ake any step that may.

h r a a a prejudice e choice , especially step th t contr dicts my own reason as m uch a s it would outrage the laws of my

country . If he who calls himself knight of the Griffin is

of of a h e really desirous trading in the paths true chiv lry , will not want opportunities of signalizing h is valour in the

f n ~ o . cause virtue Should he, notwithstandi g this declara ff of ca tion , o er violence to me in the course my oc sions ,

of f : S d he will always find me in a posture de ence or , houl S a he persist in repeating his importunities , I h ll without ’ om ceremony chastise the messenger . His declining the c r f n ow bat was interp eted into ear by Mr Sycamore , who f of became more insolent and erocious , on the supposition ’ a to our knight s timidity . Sir L uncelot meanwhile went

fa f and a break st with his riends, having put on his rmour , f a ordered the horses to be brought orth . Then he p id the

a k a of bill , and w l ing deliberately to the g te, in presence ’ a a on e Squire Syc more and his attend nts , vaulted at spring

S of Bron zomar te into the addle , whose neighing and curvet ing proclaimed the joy he felt in being mounted by his ac

complished master . Though the knight of the Griffin did not think proper to

a a f a fa insult his riv l person lly , his riend D wdle did not il to of crack some jokes on the figure and horsemanship Crowe , who again declared he should be gl ad to fall in with him ’ upon the voy age : nor did Mr Clarke s bl ack p atch and A s rueful countenance pass unnoticed and unridiculed . ’ b h aw b r h for Timothy Cra s , he beheld his other squire wit the contempt of a veteran ; and Gilbert paid him his i 78 THE ADVENTURES or

CHAPTER XIX .

Conta in ing the a chievemen ts of the kn ig hts if the Gr iflin

a n d Cr es cen t.

MR of f denomi SYCAMORE , alias the knight the Gri fin , so n ate f f on d rom a gri fin painted his shield , being armed at

f a n all points , and his riend D wdle provided with a certai f u implement , which he flattered himsel wo ld ensure a victory

out fr over the novice Crowe , they set om the George , with t a of heir attend nts , in all the elevation hope, and pranced

along the highway that led towards London , that being the

road which our adventurer pursued . As they were extreme l in y well mounted , and proceeded at a round pace, they

less than two hours , came up with Sir Launcelot and his company ; and Sycamore sent another formal defiance to the l for knight, by his trumpeter, Dawd e having , good reasons, e d clined that office . f Our adventurer hearing himsel thus addressed , and see

a h ad ing his riv l , who passed him , posted to obstruct his

- a- progress , armed cap pee , with his lance in the rest , deter

to fa a w a s mined give the satis ction th t required , and desired

t a n h t the regulatio s of the combat might be established .

of ffi th e a The knight the gri n proposed , that v nquished pa rty should resign all pretensions to Miss Aurelia Darnel in favour of the vi ctor ; th at while the principals were e n

f a a gaged , his riend D wdle should run a tilt with C ptain ” ’ Crowe ; th a t Squire C rabshaw an d Mr Sycamore s servant should keep themselves in readiness to assist their respective

a a ccordin ' to law of and m sters occasionally , g the arms ; that Mr of Clarke should observe the motions the trumpeter,

whose province was to sound the ch arge to battle .

i a a Our kn ght greed to these regul tions , notwithstanding

an d a h a of the earnest p t etic remonstr nces the young lawyer , n a a in who , with tears in his eyes , co jured all the comb t nts their turns to refrain from an action that might be attended w ith bloodshed and murder, and was contrary to the laws 1 s rn LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 79

e both of God and man . In vai n he endeavoured to mov m h them by tears and entreaties , by threatening the wit pro s ecutions a a i n : in this world , and p ins and pen lties the next

a nd they persisted in their resolution , his uncle would have

on begun hostilities his carcase, had he not been prevented f th e by Sir Launcelot , who exhorted Clarke to retire rom of field , that he might not be involved in the consequences the combat . He relished this advice so well , that he had actually moved off to some distance ; but his apprehension s and concern for his friends co- operating with an insatiable

a of a . curiosity , det ined him in sight the eng gement

tw fa v The o knights having irly di ided the ground , and the a on same precautions being t ken by the seconds , another

a of a h p rt the field , Sycamore beg n to be invaded wit some s cruples , which were probably engendered by the martial appearance and well known character of his antagonist . The confidence which he h ad derived from the reluctance of

a a Sir Launcelot now vanished , because it plainly ppe red that the knight’s backwardness was not owing to personal timid ity and he foresaw that the prosecution of this joke might be attended with very serious consequences to his own life d n . f a reputation He there ore desired a parley , in which he observed his affection for Miss Darnel was of such a delicate n a discomfiture of ature, th t, should the his rival contribute

a to make her unh ppy , his victory must render him the most f a miserable wretch upon earth . He proposed , there ore , th t her sentiments and choice should be ascertained before they proceeded to extremity . Sir Launcelot declared that he was much more afraid of ’ of combating Aurelia s inclination , than opposing the knight of the griffi n i n arms and tha t if he had the least reason to

a or think Mr Syc more , any other person , was distinguished f as by her pre erence , he would instantly give up his suit

. a desperate At the same time , he observed , that Syc more had proceeded too far to retract ; that he had insulted a gentleman , and not only challenged , but even pursued him , and blocked up his pa ssage in the public highway ; out rages which he (Sir Launcelot) would not suffer to pass nu 1 80 TH E A DVE N TU R E S: or

n . A n l on th e on a n pu ished ccordi g y , he insisted combat , p i of a n a as a a n d a h tre ti g Mr Syc more cr ven a recreant . T is d a a i w a s f a w wh o a ecl r t on rein orced by D dle , told him , th t ,

h a n all s ould he now decline the eng geme t , the world would

fa look upon him as an in mous poltroon . These two observ ations gav e a necess ary fillip to the cour of a a age the ch llenger . The p rties took their stations ; the

a an d a a a h trumpet sounded to ch rge , the comb t nts beg n t eir a career with gre t impetuosity . W hether the gleam of Sir ’ ' l a a aff a or L uncelot s rms righted Mr Syc more s steed , some

h ad an ff on - a n other object unlucky e ect his eye sight , cert i

a a t a a an d a it is he st rted bout midw y , g ve his rider such a

a s a and him violent shake , discomposed his ttitude , disabled f a a a a rom using his l nce to the best dv nt ge . H ad our hero

a l continued his c reer with his ance couched , in all proba ’ bility Sycamore s armour would h ave proved but a bad de ’ f a but a i ence to his c rcase ; Sir L uncelot , perceiv ng his rival s

h ad of spear unrested , just time to throw up the point his own a , when the two horses closed with such shock , that

a w as Syc more , already wavering in the saddle , overthrown, and his armour crashed around him as he fell .

n him imu The victor , seei g lie without motion , alighted m a a of edi tely , and beg n to unbuckle his helmet , in which

fi ce he was a ssisted by the trumpeter . When the headpiece w as d a h of rifii n a a i n remove , the h pless knig t the g ppe red

a of a w a s a the p le livery de th , though he only in swoon , f v ff of f h air rom which he soon reco ered by the e ect the res , a n d a of f a a the spersion cold water , brought rom sm ll pool

z in the neighbourhood . When he recogni ed his conqueror d n f of a a oi g the o fices hum nity bout his person , he closed his

f v a a w as for eyes rom ex tion , told Sir Launcelot th t his the

of da h f w a tune the y, t ough he himsel o ed his misch nce to

fa of own a nd a the ult his horse ; observed , th t this ridiculous

ffa a a for th e in a ir would not h ve h ppened , but mischievous

ti ation of a on s g th t scoundrel Dawdle , whose ribs he threat ened to revenge this mish ap .

a a a a Perh ps C pt in Crowe might h ve saved him the trouble, had the wag honourably adhered to the institutions of chi .

1 82 TH E ADVENT URES O F

strangled at the very instant his master was thrown by Sir

L auncelot Greaves .

a r e H ving thus obtained the victory , he did not much

of a for gard the punctilios chiv lry , but , taking it granted

a a of a he had right to m ke the most his adv ntage , resolved i to off s atial o na . a carry the p p Alighting with gre t agility , ’ ’ t a s haw awrs brother, cried he , I hink y bean t a but ’ ’ ’ doan t a — w cher s horse , a c rry calves well I se make yaw kna

a — a if was your churning d ys , I wool wh t yaw look as yaw

ou do— ou a crow trodden , y now , y sh ll pay the score you ’

on ou . have been running my pate , y shall , brother

a of h at So s ying , he rifled his pockets , stripped him his ’

and of a . coat, and took possession his master s portm nteau But he did not long enjoy his plunder ; for the lacquey

a of compl ining to Sir Launcelot his having been despoiled , ’ f not the knight commanded his squire to re und , without menaces of subjecting him to the severest chastisement for

in us tic e an d . r his j rapacity Timothy represented , with g eat

v won fa ehemence , that he had the spoils in ir battle , at the

of expense his head and shoulders , which he immediately uncovered to prove his allegation : but his remonstrance

ff an having no e ect upon his master , wounds cried he , ’ I mun gee thee back the pig, I se gee thee back the poke

also I m a drubbing still i n thy debt . mad f With these words , he e a most urious attack upon

ff - f the plainti with his horse whip , and , be ore the knight

. an could interpose , repaid the lacquey with interest As a a of appurten nce to Sycamore and D wdle, he ran the risk f another assault rom the novice Crowe , who was so trans ported with rage at the disagreeable trick which had been

a f pl yed upon him by his ugitive antagonist, that he could not for a fe w some time pronounce an articul te sound , but a

of not broken interjections , the meaning which could be as h cer tained . ran Snatching up his pole , e towards the place w a sat on the here Mr Syc more grass , supported by the

v w ou trumpeter , and would ha e finished hat r adventurer h ad f if of le t undone , the knight the crescent , with admirable not d off w dexterity, had war ed the blo which he aimed at 5 1a LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 1 83

of r f the knight the g i fin , and signified his displeasure in a : resolute tone then he collared the lacquey , who was just f m a of C rabsh aw disengaged ro the chastising h nd , and , h swinging his lance wit his other hand , encountered the ’ ’ squire s ribs by accident . Timothy was not slow in returning the salutation with the weapon which he still wielded . Mr Clarke, running up to of the assistance his uncle , was opposed by the lacquey , who seemed extremely desirous of seeing the enemy revenge his

f f of one . im quarrel, by alling oul another Clarke , thus

ed ed f m e p , commenced hostilities against the oot an , whil

Crabsh aw - Crowe grappled with ; a battle royal ensued , and was maintained with grea t vigour and some bloodshed on all th e of f sides , until authority Sir Launcelot, rein orced by ’ s a an ome weighty remonstrances pplied to the squire , put

. Crabshaw end to the conflict immediately desisted , and who ran roaring to communicate his grievances to Gilbert,

z seemed to sympathi e very little with his distress . The lac quey took to his heels Mr Clarke wiped his bloody nose ; declaring he had a good mind to put the aggressor i n the crown - offi ce ; and C aptain Crowe continued to ej aculate nu connected oaths , which , however, seemed to imply that he w w D—n if as a of n e f . lmost sick his pro ession my eyes , ’ ou a — — y c ll this start my timbers , brother look ye, d ye see

- a s on of a— lousy , lubberly , cowardly among the breakers , ’ — — d ye see lost my steerage way split my binnacle ; bawle ’ — O arrantr — away damn all y give me a tight vessel , d ye ' — a a — m — m see, brother m yh p you mayn t snatch y sea roo ’ nd a — a a spanking g le odds heart , I ll hold a whole years ’ ’ smite my limbs ; it don t signify talking .

for obs erv Our hero consoled the novice his disaster, by

a if had . ing, th t , he had got some blows , he lost no honour

was difli cult if At the same time , he observed , that it very , not impossible for a man to succeed i n the paths of chivalry who had pas sed the better part of hiLdays in other occupa and the h had a him tions hinted , that , as cause whic eng ged of f was in this way li e no longer existed , he determined to relinquish a profession which in a peculiar manner exposed 1 84 THE ADVE N TURE S O F

him to the most disagreeable incidents . Crowe chewed the e nd a i of upon this insinu t on , while the other personages the

a a dr ma were employed in c tching the horses , which had

th e . for a given their riders slip As Mr Syc more, he was

f a w as a so bruised by his all , th t it necess ry to procure a litter for conveying him to the next town ; and the servant was

a for disp tched this convenience, Sir Launcelot staying with

him until it arrived . w as f our When he sa ely deposited in the carriage , hero

f a n took leave o him in these terms . I sh ll not insist upo your submitting to the terms you yourself proposed before o f all ad this rencounter . I give y u ree leave to use your

a in an for vant ges , honourable way , promoting your suit with the young lady of whom you profess yourself enamour

. u ou a r ou ed Sho ld y h ve recou se to sinister practices , y will

find Sir L auncelot Greaves ready - to dem and an account of

a of - your conduct , not in the ch racter a lunatic knight errant ,

a a of but as pl in English gentleman , jealous his honour, and ’ r esolute in his purpose .

To this address Mr Sycamore made no reply , but with a s ullen a spect ordered the carri age to proceed ; and it moved ’ our a accordingly to the right, hero s ro d to London lying in

the other direction . Sir Launcelot had already exchanged his arm our for a

- a h at and riding co t , , and boots ; Crowe, parting with his

- and a a in skull cap le thern jerkin , reg ined , some respects , f a o a a . a the appear nce a hum n cre ture Thus met morphosed,

w a an a en they pursued their y in easy p ce , Mr Clarke d eav ouring to amuse them with a learned dissert ation on the

d a a law , tending to emonstr te that Mr Syc more was, by on a ff a his behaviour th t day , liable to three di erent ctions , besides a comm i ssi on of lunacy ; and th at D awdle might be prosecuted for h aving practised subtle cratt to the annoy

a of b a for nce his uncle , over and a ove an ction assault and for ? a Crow e h av in run battery ; because ; why The s id . g

a f away , as might be e sily proved , be ore any blows were out of given , the said Dawdle, by pursuing him even the h d n him in f on hig roa , putti g ear, and committing battery

1 86 THE ADVE NTURE S or

f f h her, had aith ully promised to call upon her, and let er know what p assed in the family ; but as he did not keep his word , and she was an utter stranger in London , with out f or riends settlement , she had resolved to return to her

fa o f mother, and travelled so r n oot since yesterday morn

Our knight , who had expected the most dismal tidings f m fin d ro her lamentable preamble , was pleased to his pre saging fears disappointed ; though he was far from being of f satisfied with the dismission Dolly, rom whose attach ment to his interest , joined to her influence over Mr Clump , he had hoped to reap such intelligence as would guide him ’ a of f to the h ven his desires . A ter a minute s reflection , he

a saw it would be expedient to c rry back Mrs Cowslip , and lodge her at the place where Mr Clump had promised to

for i n visit her with intelligence ; , all probability , it was not for w an t of inclination that he had not kept his promise . Dolly did n ot express any aversion to the scheme of r e t o n turning to London , where she hoped once more rejoi

a her dear lady , to whom by this time she was ttached by the strongest ties of affection ; and her inclination in this respect was assisted by the consideration of having the com

a of a p ny the young lawyer , who , it pl inly appeared , had a a m de strange havoc in her he rt , though it must be owned , for of the honour this blooming damsel , that her thoughts had never once deviated from the p aths of innocence and virtue . The more Sir Launcelot surveyed this agreeable m f f of aiden , the more he elt himsel disposed to take care her fortune ; and from this day he began to rumin ate on a f f scheme which was a terwards consummated in her avour . In the meantime he laid injunctions on Mr Clarke to con duct his addresses to Mrs Cowslip according to the rules of b e a honour and decorum , as valued his counten n ce and

a - for friendship . His next step was to procure saddle horse f of a Dolly , who pre erred this to any other sort carri ge, and of thereby gratified the wish her admirer, who longed to see her on horseback in her green jose ph .

’ u n of e The armour, incl ding the accoutreme ts the novic s ra LAUN CELOT GREAVE S . 1 87

’ the e ft of and squir , were le in the care the innkeeper , and Timothy Crabsh aw was so metamorphosed by a plain livery f e f his er rock, that even Gilb rt with di ficulty recognized p f r s on . o a As the novice Crowe , his head had lmost resum

fa ed its natural dimensions , but then his whole ce was so ff his a a covered with a livid su usion , nose ppe red so flat,

tumified a and his lips so , that he might very well have p ss f f or ed or a Ca fre Ethiopian . Every circumstance being f E ca now adjusted, they departed rom ngden in a regular v alcade in at , dined at Hatfield , and the evening arrived the

u - and- a in B ll G te inn Holborn , where they established their quarters for the night .

CHAPTE R XX .

In whi h our her des cen ds i nt the man s ions o the da mn c o o f ed .

THE first step which Sir Launcelot took in the morning that succeeded his arrival in London , was to settle Mrs Dolly Cowslip in lodgings at the house where John Clump v h had promised to isit her as he did not doubt , that, thoug was a or be the visit del yed , it would some time other per f and a he a ormed , in th t case might obt in some intelligence of a wa Aurelia . Mr Thomas Cl rke s permitted to take up

on his habitation in the same house , his earnestly desiring he might be intrusted with the office of conveying informa

and our tion and instruction between Dolly adventurer . f d The knight himsel resolved to live retired , until he shoul receive some tidings relating to Miss Darnel th at would n f a of i fluence his conduct bu,t . he proposed to requent pl ces of public resort incognito , that he might have some chance

” meeting by a ccident the mistress of his heart .

for of Taking it granted , that the oddities Crowe would help to amuse him in his hours of solitude and disappoint

a at a ment , he invited that origin l to be his guest a sm ll be d f h house , which etermined to hire ready urnis ed , in the " u of The n a e neighbo rhood Golden square . captai th nk d 1 88 TH E ADVENT URES O F

for c f a ff r him his ourtesy , and rankly embr ced his o e , though

‘ ’ he di d not much approve of the knight s choice in point of

s ituation . He said he would recommend him to a speci a l t a S . in a good upper deck h rd by Catherines W pping, where he would be delighted with the prospect of the street

f f a a orwards , well requented by p ssengers , carts , dr ys , and o ther carriages ; and having ba ckwards an agreeable view ’ of m a r h two Alder an Parson s gre t b ew ouse , with hundred

w f . h ogs feeding almost under the windo . As a urther in duce ment of , he mentioned the vicinity the Tower guns, which would regale his hearing on days of salutation ; nor did he forget the sweet sound of mooring and unmooring

th e a ships in the river , and ple sing objects on the other side

f a a nd a a o the Th mes , displayed in the oozy docks c bb ge

a gardens of Rotherhithe . Sir L uncelot was not insensible to

of a an the beauties this landsc pe , but his pursuit lying other way,he contented himself with a less enchanting situ

a him of f a tion , and Crowe accomp nied out pure riendship . ’ a a t our At night, Mr Clarke rrived hero s house wi th

a a . tidings that were by no me ns greeable He told him ,

f a for f a t that Clump had le t letter Dolly , in orming her, th ’ w as out a ~ his master squire Darnel, to set e rly in the morn ing for Yorkshire ; but he could give no account of her

da f w n o lady , who had the y be ore been conveyed , he kne t

a - a a nc an d whither, in a h ckney co ch , ttended by her u le

- f had the a a of an ill looking ellow, who much ppe rance

f was ff . a baili or turnkey , so that he eared she in trouble

w as ff a Sir Launcelot deeply a ected by this intim tion . His apprehension was even roused by a susp i cion th at a man ’ of D arnel s violent temper and unprincipled heart might

f of n have practised upon the li e his lovely niece ; but, upo e recollection , he could not suppos that he had recourse to

h f a c s uc in amous expedients, knowing as he did , that an of a t a i t count her would be demanded his h nds , and that would be easily proved he h ad convey ed her from the lodg

' ing in which she resided . f His first ears now gave way to another suggestion , that r e to e h Anthony, in o d r intimidat her into a compliance wit

1 9 0 THE ADVENT URE S or

a straint . The street is crowded with p ssengers . Trades f ff f men o all kinds here exercise their di erent pro essions . H awkers of all sorts are admitted to call and vend their b ’ w ares as in any Open street of London . Here are utchers ’ a ta - l fre stands , ch ndlers shops , a surgery , a p house wel

uen ted a ch ar e q , and public kitchen , in whi provisions for r a of dressed all the p isoners gr tis , at the expense the

f a a . o public n Here the voice misery never compl ins : and ,

a of nd indeed , little else is to be he rd but the sounds mirth a f f . o on n jollity At the urther end the street , the right ha d ,

d a a is a little paved court lea ing to separ te building , con

of a a sisting twelve l rge apartments , called st te rooms, well furnished and fitted up for the reception of the better sort of an d on of crown prisoners ; the other side the street, facing a sepa ra te division of ground called the common s of of low . ide, i s a range rooms occupied by prisoners the

of bo x est order , who share the profits a begging , and are m t a f of ain ained by this pr ctice , and some established unds

. a ro charity We ought also to observe , that the j il is p vi ded h in a with a neat c apel , which clergyman , in con a of f sider tion a certain salary , per orms divine service every

Sund ay .

a Our dventurer, having searched the books , and perused thedescription of all the fem ale prisoners who had been for

a a not in some weeks dmitted into the j il , obtained the least telli ence of r e s olve d to e g his concealed charmer , but alleviat fi his dis appointment by the grati cation of his curiosity .

of of Under the auspices Mr Norton , he made a tour the an d s aw prison , in particular Visited the kitchen , where he

of of a number spits loaded with a variety provision , con ’ of a and a : n ot sisting butcher s me t , poultry , g me he could f help expressing his astonishment with upli ted hands , and f congratulating himsel in secret , upon his being a member of that community which had provided such a comfortable w a sylum for the unfortunate . His ej aculation a s interrupted by a tumultuous noise in the street ; and Mr Norton declar

was for our ing he sent to the lodge , consigned hero to the ca of one of r re Mr Felton , a prisoner a very decent appea s ra LAUN CELOT GREAVES . 1 9 1

m ance, who paid his co pliments with a good grace , and o invited the c mpany to repose themselves in his apartment , f IVh whi ch was large , commodious , and well urnished . en

a of a him Sir L uncelot asked the cause that upro r, he told that it was the prelude to a boxing - match between two of or f the prisoners, to be decided in the ground garden o the place .

Captain Crowe, expressing an eager curiosity to see the b a attle , Mr Felton ssured him there would be no sport , as the combatants were both reckoned dunghills but in h alf ’ be of u an hour, said he, there will a battle some co se uence of of q between two the demagogues the place , Dr Crabclaw Ta el a nd and Mr p y, the first a physician the

o . Y ou ther a brewer must know , gentlemen , that this mi crocosm or republic in miniature is like the great world split

f . Crabclaw of on e a the into actions is the leader p rty , and other is headed by Tapely both are men of warm an d im etuous p tempers , and their intrigues have embroiled the whole place , insomuch that it was dangerous to walk the street on account of the continual skirmishes of their parti of zans . At length som e the most sedate inhabitants hav ing met and deliberated upon some remedy for these grow in g disorders , proposed that the dispute should be at once S f decided by ingle combat between the two chie s, who, read ily agreed to the proposal . The match was accordingly

for made five guineas , and this very day and hour appoint e d for a on of are the tri l , which considerable sums money

for n ot depending . As Mr Norton , it is proper that he or ro should be present , seem to countenance such violent p ceedin s g , which , however , it is necessary to connive at , as for a of convenient vents the ev poration those humours , which , u out being confined , might accum late and break with greater f ’ ury in conspiracy and rebellio n . The knight owned he could not conceive by what means of such a number licentious people , amounting , with their a n dependants , to above five hundred , were restr ined withi

of f the bounds any tolerable discipline , or prevented rom m s e aking their escape, which they might at any time 1 9 2 THE ADVE NTU RES or co a h or mplish , either by ste lt open violence, as it could n ot on e or tw o a e m be supposed that turnkeys , continu lly an d l ployed in opening shutting the door, cou d resist the f w efforts o a hole multitude . ’ a a Your wonder, good sir, s id Mr Felton , will v nish , w hen you consider it is h ardly possible tha t the multitude should co- operate in the execution of such a s ch eme ; and that the keeper perfectly w ell understands th e m axim di v ide

a ci imp er a . M ny prisoners are restrained by the dictates of

a - a f gr titude towards the deputy m rshal , whose riendship and good offices they h ave experienced some no doubt are actu o a ted by motives f discretion . One party is an effectual check upon the other ; and I am firmly persuaded that there are n ot ten prisoners within the place th a t would m ake their

a if d o a . esc pe , the ors were l id open This is a step which

o m an u f n would take , nless his ortune was altogether des pera te because it would oblige him to leave his country for f m of re li e , and expose him to the ost imminent risk being w taken an d treated ith the utmost severity . The majority of the prisoners live in th e most lively hope of being released

a of f a of by the ssistance their riends , the comp ssion their

f of . cre ditors , or the avour the legislature Some who are

ff f ar e a cut o rom all these proposals , become n turalized to

th e la . p ce , knowing they cannot subsist in any other situation f I myself am on e of these . A ter h aving resigned all my ef

for of m feets the benefits y creditors , I have been detained one f S these nine years in prison , because person re uses to ign

all f f my certificate . I have long outlived my riends rom whom I could expect the least countenance or favour I am

o n an d gr w old in confinement , lay my account with ending da a as of l a f of my ys in j il , the mercy the egisl ture in avour insolvent debtors is never extended to un ce rtified bankrupts

' i f and taken in execution . By d nt o industry the most rigid

a f . economy , I m ke shi t to live independent in this retreat

his fa of a s To t scene my culty subsisting , well as my body , d . H a is peculiarly confined I an opportunity to escape, ? wh ere should I g o All my views of fortune h ave been long

f ds n r . blasted . I have no rien nor connectio s in the wo ld I

1 9 4: THE ADVENTURE S or w and w ith black circles ; she returned the salute with a blo , of f which brought a double stream blood rom his nostrils, greeting him at the same time with the opprobrious appella of — f tion a lousy son of a b h . A combat more urious than n the first would now have ensued, had not Felton i terposed ’ of on with an air authority , and insisted the man s leaving f the field, an injunction which he orthwith obeyed , saying ’ f well , damme , Felton , you re my riend and commander ; ’ — — I ll obey your order but the b h will be foul of me before ’ we sleep . Then Felton advancing to his opponent, Ma ’ ’ dam ‘ I m of , said he , very sorry to see a lady your rank — ’ and qualifications expose yourself in this manner for God s if not for a e sake, behave with a little more decorum , the s k of own f leas t for of in your amily , at the credit your sex ‘ ’ ’

. m f general Hark ye, Felton , said she, decoru is ound ed upon a delicacy of sentiment and deportment which cannot of of consist with the disgraces a jail , and the miseries in

i n the n w d e ce . o g But I see dispute is terminated, and the ’ if ou S money is to be drank you ll dine with us , y hall if not ou di e in be welcome ; , y may your sobriety , and be d ’ amned . out l the By this time the doctor had given , and al owed brewer to be the better man yet he would not honour the festival with his presence, but retired to his chamber, ex l ceeding y mortified at his defeat . Our hero was reconduct ’ e d t o Mr Felton s apartment , where he sat some time with out opening his mouth , so astonished he was at what he had

seen and heard . ’ ou i I perceive, sir , said the prisoner, y are surpr sed at th e manner in which I accosted that unhappy woman ; and perhaps you will be more surprised when you hear that with n of fa in these eightee months she was actually a person shion ,

and her opponent , who by the by is her husband , universally ’ am respected as a man of honour and a brave offi cer . I ’ our indeed , cried hero , overwhelmed with amazement and l w concern , as wel as stimulated by an eager curiosity to kno the fatal causes which have produced such a deplorable reverse of character and fortune . But I will rein my curiosity till SI R O LAUNCEL T G REAVE S .

f no if ou f the a ter on , y will avour me with your company at a n o taver in the neighb urhood , where I have bespoke dinner, a favour which I hope Mr Norton will have no objection to he f be of your granting as himsel is to the party . The pri s oner him for n thanked his kind i vitation , and they adjourn e d th e - immediately to place, taking up the deputy marshal in u h lod e br of their passage thro g the g entrance the prison .

C HAPTER XXI .

Co nta ining f urther a necdotes r ela ting to the childr en of

w r etchedn es s .

DI f our NNE R being cheer ully discussed, and adventurer ex pressing an eager desire to know the history of the male and ’ female who had acted as squires or seconds to the champions ’ of the King s Bench , Felton gratified his curiosity to this ff e ect . All of n Clewline that I know Captai , previous to his m of of commit ent is , that he was commander a sloop war, and bore the reputation of a gallant officer ; that he married

of in of the daughter a rich merchant the city London , of against the inclination , and without the knowledge , her f for of : ather, who renounced her this act disobedience that n f for of the captai consoled himsel the rigour the parent , h of n ot wit the possession the lady, who was only remark f in in ably beauti ul person , but highly accomplished her i n fe w mind, and amiable her disposition . Such , a months ou in ago, were those two persons whom y saw acting such the a vulgar capacity . When they first entered prison , they were undoubtedly the handsomest couple mine eyes ever i won beheld , and the r appearance universal respect even

from the most brutal inhabitants of the j ail . f The captain , having unwarily involved himsel as a se a curity for a man to whom he had lain under oblig tions , f became liable for a considerable sum ; and his own ather

ih - l w t of r a , being he sole creditor the bank upt , took this " 1 9 6 THE ADVENTURE S or opportunity of wreaking vengeance upon him for having th espoused his d aughter . He w a tched an opportunity until e captain h ad actu ally stepped into a post ch aise with his lady for and him ar Portsmouth , where his ship lay , caused to be rested in the most public an d shameful m anner . Mrs Clew line h ad like to h ave sunk u nder the first transports of her f f but b e grie and morti ication these su siding , she had recours to person al solicitation . She went with her only child in her ’ a bo fa an d ad arms , lovely y , to her ther s door, being denied mittance l , kneeled down in the street , imp oring his compass sion in th e mos t path etic strain ; but this h ard - hearted citi

n of a oo zen , i stead recognizing his child , and t king the p r f mourner to his bosom , insulted her rom the window with the h a most bitter reproac , s ying , among other shocking expres

a f a sions , strumpet , t ke yoursel away with your br t , other ”

for a l. wise I shall send the be dle, and have you to Bridewel

f a w as c t The un ortun te lady u to the heart by this usage , fa f w as and inted in the street, rom whence she conveyed to h f a public house by the c arity of some passengers . She a ter wards attempted to soften the barbarity of her father by r e eated eof f e p letters , and by interesting som his ri nds to inter cede with him in her behalf ; but all her ende a vours prov ing

ff l a a of ine ectua , she accomp nied her husb nd to the prison ’ r a f the King s Bench , whe e she must h ve elt , in the severest

fa of manner, the tal reverse circumstances to which she was exposed . d l f Su The captain being isab ed rom going to sea , was er s e de d and he a of an p , saw all his hopes bl sted in the midst w ar had fa of active , at a time when he the irest prospects

s aw f fame and for tune . He himsel reduced to extreme po

of a a verty , cooped up with the tender partner his he rt in th e f of th e wretched hovel , amidst re use mankind , and on f f The brink of wanting the common necessaries o li e . mind of man is ever ingenious in finding resources . He com forted his lady with vain hopes of h aving fri ends who would

ff a a a of h e ect his deliver nce , and repeated ssur nces t is kind s o alt long , that he at length began to think they were not together void of foundation .

1 9 8 TH E ADVENTURE S or

nor on 0 04 attendance , procure proper advice . I did that

- f s . casion, what I thought my duty towards my ellow creature of e I wrote to a physician my acquaintance , who was human enough to visit the poor little patient : I engaged a carefu l

- u m woman prisoner as a n rse, and Mr Norton supplied the s uf with money and necessaries . These helps were barely fi cien t f of n to preserve them rom th e horrors despair, whe they saw their little darling panting under the rage of a

the of loathsome pestilential malady , during excessive heat

- for in at the dog days, and struggling breath the noxious mos here of ‘ m p a confined cabin , where they scarce had roo

on a . to turn , the most necess ry occasions The eager curiosity ’ with which the mother eyed the doctor s looks as often as bo of fa he visited the y ; the terror and trepidation the ther, e while he desired to know his opinion ; in a word, the whol tenor of their distress baffled all description .

for of own At length the physician , the sake his charac be ter , was obliged to explicit ; and returning with the cap tain to the common walk, told him , in my hearing, that

the child could not possibly recover . This sentence seemed f to have petrified the un ortunate parent, who stood motion

f of . less, and seemingly bere t sense I led him to my apart m f a of f ent, where he sat a ull hour in th t state stupe action ; then he began to groan hideously ; a shower of tears burst f m f on ro his eyes ; he threw himsel the floor, and uttered

the most piteous l amentation that ever was heard . Mean

while, Mrs Norton being made acquainted with the doc ’ Cle wlin e to tor s prognostic, visited Mrs , and invited her f the lodge . Her prophetic ears immediately took the alarm ; u f What cried she, starting p with a rantic wildness in our —I her looks , then case is desperate shall lose my dear — Tommy l the poor prisoner will be released by the hand of Heaven l—Death will convey him to the cold grave ? ” The e dying innocent hearing this exclamation , pronounced thos ’ —if words, Tommy won t leave you , my dear mamma

death comes to take Tommy , papa shall drive him away

. with his sword . This address deprived the wretched mo e ther of all resignation to the will of Providence . She tor 1 s rn LAUNCELOT G REAVE S . 9 9

d f on her hair, ashed hersel the pavement , shrieked aloud, and was carried off in a deplorable state of distraction . fa That same evening the lovely babe expired , and the

w f n own f ther gre rantic . He made an attempt o his li e ; and b i f o e ng with di ficulty restrained , his agitation sunk int of h a kind sullen insensibility , whic seemed to absorb all sen

timen t f of . , and gradually vulgarized his aculty thinking of r In order to dissipate the violence his sor ow, he continual l h f f one y s i ted the scene rom company to another, contract e d of in abundance low connections , and drowned his cares w repeated intoxication . The unhappy lady under ent a long s of fi ts i eries hysterical and other compla nts, which seemed to have a fatal effect on her brain as well as constitution . Cordials were administered to keep up her spirits and she found it necessary to protract the use of them to blunt the of f the edge grie , by overwhelming reflection , and remove sense of uneasiness arising from a disorder in her stomach .

- s In a word, she became an habitual dram drinker ; and thi practice exposed her to such communication as debauched of m her reason , and perverted her sense decoru and proprie

t . l in y She and her husband gave a loose to vu gar excess , which they were enabled to indulge by the charity and in terest of f f- for some riends , who obtained hal pay the cap tain . ‘ They are now metamorphosed into the shocking crea t ou t and in ures y have seen ; he in o a riotous plebeian , she

. o d to a ragged trull They are b th drunk every ay, quarrel one f f w and fight with another, and o ten insult their ello prisoners . Yet they are not wholly abandoned by vir tue and a a his humanity . The c pt in is scrupulously honest in all off dealings , and pays his debts punctually every quarter,

f- as soon as he receives his hal pay . Every prisoner in dis tress is welcome to share his money while it lasts ; and his f f i in wi e never ails , wh le it is her power , to relieve the wretch

i n a ed ; so that their generosity , even this miser ble disguise, is universally respected by their neighbours . Sometimes the recollection of their former rank comes over them like a h w qualm , whic they dispel ith brandy , and then humour 2 00 TH E A DVEN TURE S oF

l n e h ous y rally o another on their mutual degeneracy . S e f a o ten stops me in the walk , and , pointing to the c ptain , “ a h h a d s ys , My husband , t oug he is become a blackgu r

- d f l a a h a . j il bir , must be allowed to be ndsome ellow stil

O n a i f a the other h nd , he w ll requently desire me to t ke no

of h a a . a a tice his rib, as she c nces to p ss Mind th t dr ggle ” “ tailfd ab s a a a drunken dr , he will y , wh t an ntidote it is

— for s h e was yet , all that , Felton , a fine woman when I

— a n of h er married her Poor Bess , I h ve bee the ruin , that

a a for is cert in , and deserve to be d mned bringing her to this ” pass . ’ Thus they a ccommodate themselves to each other s in

fi rmitie s and t h a of , pass their ime not wit out some t ste ple

— h fa beian enjoyment but, name their child , t ey never il to f of burst into tears , and still eel a return the most poignant ’ s orrow .

Sir Launcelot Greaves did not hear this story unmoved . ’ Tom Clarke s cheeks were bedewed with the drops of sympa

th a his y, while , with much sobbing , he decl red opinion , ’ that an action would lie against the lady s father .

a un com Captain Crowe h ving listened to the story , with

mon h a an a attention , expressed his concern t t honest se man should be so taken in stays ; but he imputed all his calami ? ’ f : For wh a afa ties to the wi e y said he , se ring man may have a sweetheart in every port ; but he should steer clear

of f as a a . a wi e, he would void quicksand You see , bro

h ow Cle w line a a a of ther , this here l gs stern in the w ke a snivelling b otherwise he would never m ake a weft — in his ensign for the loss of a child odds heart he could

if - or have done no more he had sprung a top mast, started ’ a timber . The knight declaring he would take another view of the th e af prison in ternoon , Mr Felton insisted upon his doing

h a of te a an d him the onour to drink dish in his apartment ,

a his a Sir L uncelot accepted invit tion . Thither they accord

in l a af a a of g y rep ired , ter h ving m de another circuit the jail , and te a the things were produced by Mrs Felton , when she

i n fe w was summoned to the door, and a minutes returning ,

092. TH E ADVE NTURES on

forthwith accommodated herself to the exigency of her for a tune ; yet she still affects to keep state amidst the miseries l l of a j ai ; and this affectation is truly ridiculous . She ies ’ a- bed till two o clock in the afternoon : she m aintains a fe u

male attendant for the sole purpose of dressing her person . Her cabin is the least cleanly in the whole prison ; she has learned to eat bread and cheese and drink porter ; but she

always appears once a day dressed in the pink of the fashion . ’ f a She has ound means to run in debt at the Ch ndler s shop,

'

- ot the baker s , and the tap house, though there is nothing g in this place but with ready money she has even borrowed a f m who on sm ll sums ro divers prisoners , were themselves n of the bri k starving . She takes pleasure in being surround of ed with duns , observing , that by such people a person fashion is to be distinguished . She writes circular letters to f m f a her or er riends and acqu intance, and by this method has raised pretty considerable contributions ; for she writes f t in a most elegant and irresistible style . About a ortnigh a o of g she received a supply twenty guineas ; when , instead of - d or of paying her little jail ebts, withdrawing any part f out fa her apparel rom pawn , she laid the whole sum in a shionable suit of lace ; and next day borrowed of me a shil — ling to purch a se a neck of mutton for her dinner She seems f f to think her rank in li e entitles her to this kind o assistance . a of f and She t lks very pompously her amily connections ,

by whom however she h as been long renounced . She has ' no sympathy nor compassion for the distresses of her fellow creatures ; but she is perfectly well bred she bears a repulse the best of any woman I ever knew ; and her temper has ne ver been once ruffled since her arrival at the King’s Bench

f for h She now entreated me to lend her hal a guinea , whic

she said she had the most pressing occasion , and promised

upon her honour it should be re- paid to- morrow but I lent

a f n dea ear to her request, and told her in plai terms that ’ her honour was already bankrupt .

Sir Launcelot, thrusting his hand mechanically into his out of F pocket, pulled a couple guineas, and desired elton to accommodate her with that trifle in his own name ; but ra O 2 s LAUNCEL T G REAVE S. 03 h e f the declined the proposal , and re used to touch money . ’ ‘ God f to orbid , said he , that I should attempt thwart t : no oh your charitable in ention but this , my good sir, is — a j cet she has m ny resources . Neither should we number a the cl morous beggar among those who really feel distress .

He is generally gorged with bounty misapplied . The liberal hand of charity should be extended to modest want that d pines in silence, encountering cold , nake ness, and hunger, and r f ou eve y species o distress . Here y may find the wretch of keen sensations blasted by accident in the blossom of his f in of ortune, shivering the solitary recess indigence, dis to daining beg, and even ashamed to let his misery be known .

a Here you may see the parent who has known h ppier times, r ff f n su rounded by his tender o spring , naked and orlor , de f ff manding ood , which his circumstances cannot a ord . man of That decent appearance and melancholy aspect , f who li ted his hat as you passed him in the yard , is a per f son o unblemished character . He was a reputable trad es h in t e f . man city, and ailed through inevitable losses A commission of bankruptcy w as taken out against him by his

f a . H e sole creditor, a quaker, who re used to sign his certific te f has lived these three years in prison , with a wi e and five small

c . l f hildren In a ittle time a ter his commitment , he had fri ends who offered to pay ten shillings in the pound of what for in he owed , and to give security paying the remainder not three years , by installments . The honest quaker did charge the bankrupt with any dishonest practices ; but he re f ff jected the proposal with the most morti ying indi erence, r e declaring that he did not want his money . The mother i f fi ve paired to his house , and kneel ng be ore him with her lovely children , implored mercy with tears and exclama tions . He stood this scene unmoved , and even seemed to of e enjoy the prospect, wearing the looks complacency, whil ’ his heart was steeled with rancour . Woman , said he, ‘ f if . these be hope ul babes , they were duly nurtured Go ’ thy w ays in peace ; I have taken my resolution . Her friends maintained the family for some time ; but it is not in

' human charity to pers evere : som e of them died ; some of QOl TH E ADVE NTURES or“ them grew unfortunate ; some of them fell off; and now the man m of f m poor is reduced to the extre ity indigence , ro whence he has no prospect of being retrieved . The fourth p art of wh a t you would have bestowed upon the lady would ’ n make this ma an d his family sing with joy .

H e h ad , our _ scarce pronounced these words when hero

m an a few desired the might be called , and in minutes he ’

a a low a . entered the ap rtment with obeis nce Mr Coleby ,

a a a s id the knight , I h ve he rd how cruelly you have been

an d a used by your creditor, beg you will ccept this trifling ’

if can of . present , it be any service to you in your distress

a a a . So s ying, he put five guine s into his h nd The poor man w as f c - for a so con ounded at such an unlo ked cquisition ,

a an d th t he stood m otionless silent , unable to thank the

' obs er v donor ; and Mr Felton conveyed him to the door ,

a h a too f for a . a ing th t his e rt was ull utter nce But , in lit f tle time , his wi e bursting into the room with her five child ren , looked around , and going up to Sir Launcelot , with out a a any direction , excl imed, This is the ngel sent by ’ Providence to succour me and my poor innocents . Then f f a h alling at his eet , she pressed his hand and b thed it wit

a a a her tears . He r ised her up with th t compl cency which all was natural to his disposition . He kissed her children ,

a a and h who were remark bly h ndsome neatly kept, thoug in

a e and i a homely ppar l ; , g ving her his direction , ssured her i she migh t always apply to h m in her distress . f of A ter her departure , he produced a bank note twenty

t i n Ha of pounds , and would have deposi ed it the nds Mr

a a of Felton , to be distributed in ch rities mong the objects

a h f the pl ce ; but he desired it mig t be le t with Mr Norton, wh o w as the proper person for m anaging his benevolence ; and he promised to ass ist the deputy with his advice in ou laying it t.

9206 THE ADVENTURE S or t i Crabshaw n his d lemma, cast his eyes upon Timothy , a d

of fa fel admitted him to a considerable share miliarity , and lowship . These companions had been employed in s mok u ing a social pipe at an alehouse in the neighbo rhood , when the knight ma de his excursion ; and returning to the house

- f a in . about supper time , ound Mr Cl rke waiting The young lawyer was alarmed when he heard the hour of our ten , without seeing adventurer , who had been used t o be extremely regular in his economy ; and the captain f and he supped in pro ound silence . Finding , upon inquiry a out i n among the servants , th t the knight went abruptly , of Tom n consequence having received a billet , bega to be vi of sited with the apprehension a duel , and sat the best of part the night by his uncle , sweating with the expecta tion of seeing our hero brought home a breathless corpse of i m m but no tidings him arriv ng, he , about two in the o ow n ing, repaired to his lodging, resolved to publish a de of if scription Sir Launcelot in the newspapers, he should not appear next day . n ot Crowe did pass the time without uneasiness . He was e xtremely concerned at the thought of some mischief having befallen his friend and patron : and he was terrified with the apprehensions , that , in case Sir Launcelot was murder ed of f , his spirit might come and give him notice his ate. N ow he had an insuperable aversion to all correspondence

for of with the dead ; and taking it granted , that the spirit his departed friend could not appear to him except when he

a- i n should be alone , and bed the dark , he determined to f or pass the remainder o the night without going to bed . F

was this purpose , his first care to visit the garret , in which

Crabsh aw f Timothy lay ast asleep , snoring with his mouth n f u wide open . Him the captai with di fic lty roused by dint of promising to regale him with a bowl of rum punch w in the kitchen , here the fire, which had been extinguished, f f was soon rekindled . The ingredients were etched rom a p ublic house in the neighbourhood : for the captain was too ’ f proud to use his interest in the knight s amily , especially w of at these hours, hen all the rest the servants had retired O . SIB. LAUNCEL T GREAVE S

to their repose ; and he and Timothy drank together un til d a - n n y break , the conversation tur ing upo hobgoblins, and ’ God s revenge against murder . The cookmaid lay in a little apartment contiguous to the kitchen ; and whether disturbed by these horrible tales of i or appar tions , titillated by the savoury steams that issued f - of rom the punch bowl , she made a virtue necessity , or f appetite , and dressing hersel in the dark , suddenly appear

f of . . ed be ore them , to the no small perturbation both Timo th y, in particular, was so startled , that, in his endeavours to he make an hasty retreat towards the chimney corner, o verturned the table ; the liquor was spilt , but the bowl was saved by falling on a heap of ashes . Mrs Cook hav for f f had ing reprimanded him his oolish ear, declared , she

ot - g up betimes, in order to scour her sauce pans ; and the s if capt ain proposed to have the bowl repleni hed , materials ff could be procured . This di iculty was overcome by Crab s haw ; and they sat down with their new associate to discuss the second edition . ’ The knight s sudden disappearing being brought upon th e f carpet , their emale companion gave it as her opinion , ff that nothing would be so likely to bring this a air to light, l ul as going to a cunning man , whom she had ately cons ted S all about a silver poon that was mislaid , and who told her the things that she ever did , and ever would happen to her, f f through the whole course o her li e . Her two companions pricked up their ears at this intel ligence ; and Crowe asked if the spoon had been found ? in ffi She answered the a rmative, and said , the cunning man be to descri d a hair the person that should be her true lover, and her wedded husband : that he was a seafaring man ; that he was pretty well stricken in years a little passionate or so ; and that he went with his fingers clinched like , as it

. n to were The captai began sweat at this description , and mechanically thrust his hands into his pockets ; while Crab to shaw pointing him , told her he believed she had got the sow a for right by the ear . Crowe grumbled , that m yhap all that he s hould not be brought up by such a grappling 9 08 THE ADVE NTURES or

f neither . Then he asked i this cunning man dealt with the v a de il , declaring , in th t case , he would keep clear of him ; P for why because he must have sold himself to old scratch

a of h ow h e and being a serv nt the devil , could be a good s ub ect to ? a con j his majesty Mrs Cook ssured him , the jurer was a good christian ; an d th a t he gained all his know

e n ledg by conversing with the stars a d planets . Thus s a tis fie d f as as , the two riends resolved to consult him soon it

‘ should be light ; and being directed to the place of his

for habitation , set out it by seven in the morning .

f f a an d h a d a a a They ound the house ors ken , lre dy re ched

of a the end the lane in their return , when they were ccosted

an old a a a if by wom n , who g ve them to understand , th t ,

h ad a for a of a f - as they occ sion the dvice ortune teller , she

h ad f s te in a t e did suppose they , rom their pp g the hous

b sh e a where Dr Gru ble lived , would conduct them to per son of much more eminence in tha t profession : at the sam e

f h a a time , she in ormed them t t the s id Grubble had been

a a h h all his lately sent to Bridewell ; circumst nce whic , wit

had a f . a art , he not been ble to oresee The capt in , without an f a y scruple , put himsel and his comp nion under convoy of a h a this beld me , who , throug m ny windings and turnings ,

to of a a brought them the door a ruinous house, st nding in blind alley ; which door h aving Opened with a key drawn f a a rom her pocket , she introduced them into p rlour, where

s aw f a an d they no other urniture than naked bench , some f f a or right ul figures on the bare w lls , drawn , rather scrawl ed , with charcoal . f Here she le t them locked in , until she should give the doctor notice of their arrival : an d they amused themselves with de cyph ering these characters an d hieroglyphics . The first figure that engaged their attention was that of a man a i as a n unfa h nging upon a g bbet , which both considered v ourable and a a f own omen , e ch endeavoured to vert rom his

. Crabshaw a fi person observed , th t the gure so suspended ’ was clothed in a sailor s j acket and trowsers ; a truth which

on a af the captain could not deny ; but , the other h nd , he n firmed, that the said figure exhibited the very nose and chi f( i l l) TH E ADVENTURE S O F

n of and mut . tain evolutio s over the head Timothy , having

t ered d an ejaculation , comman ed him , in a hollow tone , to

f w C r absh aw ad come or ard and declare his name . , thus

f or jured, advanced to the altar, and , whether rom design , f f Sa (which is more probable) rom con usion , answered , ’ muel Crowe . The conjuror , taking up the pen , and making

few a a scratches on the paper, exclaimed , in a terrific ccent,

h ow — , miscreant attempt to impose upon the stars you

cr a b a cr w w as look more like a than o , and born under the sign ’ ’ of a . C ncer The squire , almost annihilated by this exclam

fell u on a ation , p his knees , crying , I pr y yaw , my lord ’ ’ a and dow n t conjurer s worship, pardon my ignor nce, go to — ’ baind me over to the Red s ea like I se a poor Yorkshire ’ l th e a tyke , and wou d no more cheat st rs than I d cheat my own v ath er — a band a t tr a , as the saying is must be a good p ’ in a n a in — bu a s p g , that catches the st rs a pp g t , your honour s Crabs haw of worship observed , my name is Tim , the East

a to a Raiding, groom and squ ir Sir Launcelot Gre ves , baron knai ht a knai ht for a g , and rrant g , who ran mad wench , as ’ b w your worship s conjuration well knoweth . The person elo ’ re com is Captain Crowe ; and we coom , by Margery Cook s men dation to af a or , seek ter my master, who is gone aw y , ’ made away , the Lord he knows how and where .

Here he was interrupted by the conjuror, who exhorted him to sit down and compose himself till he should ca st a

a a figure ; then he scr wled the p per, and , waving his wand ,

a of repe ted abundance gibberish concerning the number , the of th e i names , the houses , and revolutions planets, with the r conjunctions , Oppositions , signs , circles , cycles , trines , and trigons . When he perceived th at this artifice had its proper

ff of Crabshaw e ect in disturbing the brain , he proceeded to

f a C rabs h aw or tell him rom the stars th t his name was , Crabs

t a a of of claw ; h t he was born in the E st Riding Yorkshire,

a an d poor , yet honest p rents , had some skill in horses ; and that he served a gentleman whose name began with the letter

G h h ad m ad for f whic gentleman run love , and le t his fa or mily but whether he would return alive dead , the stars had not yet determined . s ra LAUNC ELOT GREAVE S . 2 1 1

Poor Timothy w as thunderstruck to fi nd the conjuror ao

uainted h q wit all these circumstances , and begged to knbw if he mought be so bauld as to ax a question or two about

f . the his own ortune The astrologer pointing to little coffin , ’ o r an d u squire understood the hint , deposited another shil u ling . The sage had reco rse to his book , erected a nother f n e u h scheme , per ormed o ce more his airy vol tions wit the c i wand , and , having re ited another myst cal preamble , ex

of f Y ou pounded the book ate in these words , shall nei

a or ther die by war nor w ter , by hunger by thirst , nor be

old m brought to the grave by age or diste per ; but , let me

—a s o— a be— see y, the stars will have it you sh ll exalted — ’ — for - a a . 0 ! hah y, th t is hanged horse stealing good ’ ’ i a s f i my lord conjuror roared the squ re , I d lie g ve forty ’ ‘ l a . a a shil ings as be h nged Pe ce , sirr h cried the other, ‘ would you contradict or rev erse the immutable decrees of d an d ou l b fate . Hanging is your estiny , hanged y sha l e

f f n and com ort yoursel with the reflection , that as you are ot on the first , so neither will you be the last , to swing Tyburn ’ f m tree . This com ortable assurance composed the ind of

Timothy , and in a great measure reconciled him to the pre

. H e now a sk diction proceeded , in a whining tone, to whether he should suffer for the first fact ? whether it would ? be for a h orse or a m are and of what colour ? that he migh t know when his hour was come . The conjuror gravely an s were d a a on , th t he would steal a d ppled gelding a Wed nesda on a ff y , be cast at the Old Bailey Thursd y , and su er on a Friday ; and he strenuously recommended it to him to in one the appear the cart with a nosegay in hand , and i Whole duty of man in the other . But f in case it should ’ ’ ’ he in the winter, said the squire , when a nosegay can t be ‘ n an had Why , the , replied the conjuror, orange will ’ do as well . These material points being adjusted to the entire satis f n of a e actio Timothy , he decl r d he would bestow another w f of an old shilling to kno the ortune companion , who truly di d r not dese ve so much at his hands , but he could not help ’ loving him better than e er a friend he had in the world . So 2 1 2 TH E ADVE NT URE S or

ff in ffi d saying , he dropped a third o ering the co n , and desire

w fa of a to kno the te his horse Gilbert . The astrologer h ving

a art die ag in consulted his , pronounced that Gilbert would

of a the staggers , and his carcase be given to the hounds ;

' sentence which made a much d eep er impr e ss ion upon Crab ’ S w of ow n ha s mind , than did the prediction his u ntimely f a f l fa . a o and disgrace u te He shed plenteous shower te rs , and his grief broke forth in some passion ate expressions of tenderness : at length he told the astrologer he would go and

a send up the c ptain , who wanted to consult him about Mar

a as h ow h ad f gery Cook , bec use she in ormed him that Dr Grubble had described just such another man as the cap tai n for her true love ; and he had no great stom ach to the if match , so be as the stars were not bent upon their coming

together . ’ Accordingly , the squire , being dismissed by the conjuror, d f of fa escended to the parlour with a rue ul length ce, which t being perceived by the captain , he demanded , wha b haw of . Cra s cheer, ho with some signs apprehension m if aking no return to this salute, he asked the conjuror had ? taken an observation , and told him any thing Then the w other replied, he had told him more than he desired to kno . ’ a no Why , an that be the c se, said the seaman , I have f ’ occasion to go alo t this trip , brother . This evasion would not serve his t urn : old Tisiphone was u of at hand , and led him p growling into the hall audience,

which he did not examine without trepidation . Having r cofli n f been di ected to the , where he presented hal a crown , of f s l in hope rendering the ates more propitiou , the usua

w as rf in ceremony pe ormed , and the doctor addressed him ’ these words , Approach , raven . The captain advancing, ’ ’ a you an t much mistaken , brother, said he, he ve your ’ ’ a I m eye into the binn cle , and box your compass , you ll find

f f of a crowe, not a raven , tho indeed they be both owls a. ’ ’

f . eather , as the saying is I know it, cried the conjuror,

ar t —a w not of thou a northern crow , sea cro ; a crow prey, cre w —a w — but a to be preyed upon cro to be plucked , to fla ed — — u be y , to be basted , to be broiled by Margery pon

2 1 45 THE ADVENTURES or a lone ; that human ar t was fallible an d imperfect ; and all

a f a e th t it could per orm , was to discover certain p rtial circum stances of any particul ar object to which it s inquiries were h directed . That being qu estioned by the ot er man concern ’ of a d ing the cause his master s dis ppearing , he had exercise

ll and f a his ski upon the subject , ound re son to believe that Sir Launcelot was ass assin a ted ; that he should think him s elf happy in being the instrument of bringing the murderers f a ul of v to justice , though he ores w they wo d themsel es save him th at trouble ; for they would quarrel about dividing the

s i f a a . poil , and one would give n orm tion ag inst the other

f f a a The prospect o this s atis action ppe sed the resentment, ea e f of w and in some m sur mitigated the grie , Captain Cro e , wh o took his leave without much ceremony and being

Cr absh aw a a joined by , proceeded with he vy heart to the

of a f house Sir L uncelot , where they ound the domestics at f h m of break ast, wit out exhibiting the least sympto concern

for their absent m aster. Crowe had been wise enough to ’ conceal from C rabsh aw what he had learned of the knight s

fa b e for of fate . This tal intelligence reserved the ear his f l “ th e nephew Mr Clarke, who did not ai to attend him in

forenoon . ’ for a f As the squire , he did nothing but rumin te in rue ul

a a and silence upon the d ppled gelding , the noseg y , the pre f f of . t e dicted ate Gilbert Him he or hwith Visit d in the stable, and s aluted with the kiss of peace : then he bemoaned his f of own a ortune with tears , and , by the sound his lament

l n . tion , was lu led asleep amo g the litter

CHAPTER XXI I I .

' I n which the louds tha h a t h n di c t cover t c c tas r op e beg i to sp er s e.

W E must n ow leave C aptain Crowe and his nephew Mr

fa a Clarke, arguing with great vehemence about the t l intel

li en ce f n a t n e g obtained rom the conjuror, and pe etrate o c the t our n veil hat concealed hero . Know the , reader, that Sir 1 R G V s 2 1 5 s LAUNCELOT RE A E .

t to in Launcelo Greaves , repairing the place described the billet which he had received , was accosted by a person ff h f mu led in a cloak, who began to amuse him wit a eigned

of t s tory Aurelia , to which while he listened with great at en t f f ion, he ound himsel suddenly surrounded by armed men ,

an d who seized pinioned down his arms , took away his him f s word , and conveyed by orce into a hackney coach provided for the purpose . In vain he expostul a ted on this violence with three persons who a ccompanied him in the of vehicle . He could not extort one word by way reply ; f e and , rom their gloomy aspects , he began to be apprehensiv f of assassination . Had the carriage passed through any re uented in q place, he would have endeavoured to alarm the

of s habitants ; but it was already clear the town , and his con all ductors took care to avoid villages and inhabited houses .

After having travelled about two miles , the coach stopped our at a large iron gate, which being opened, adventurer was led in silence through a spacious house into a tolerably

a h for decent ap rtment, whic he understood was intended his

e . fe w f he bed chamb r In a minutes a ter his arrival , was

of who Visited by a man no very prepossessing appearance, h h endeavoured to smoot his countenance, whic was natural l our y stern , welcomed adventurer to his house ; exhorted him of him o fo to be good cheer, assuring he sh uld want r for nothing, and desired to know what he would choose supper . in Sir Launcelot , answer to this civil address, begged he of the would explain the nature his confinement , and rea sons for which his arms were tied like those of the worst ma

- w lefactor . The other postponed till to morro the explan a n in m f tio he demanded, but the meanti e unbound his etters ,

f . and , as he declined eating, le t him alone to his repose

He took care, however, in retiring to double lock the door of n on h the room , whose wi dows were grated the outside wit iron .

The knight, being thus abandoned to his own meditations , began to ruminate on the present adventure with equa l prise and concern ; but the more he revolved circumstances, 2 1 6 THE ADVENTURES or

the more was he perplexed in his conjectures . According of i f n to the state the mind, a very subtle ph losopher is o te puzzled by a very plain proposition ; and this was the case 7 of our “ hat n. adventurer . made the strongest impressio

u a on pon his mind , was a notion th t he was apprehended

of a f suspicion treasonable pr ctices , by a warrant rom the se

cretar of of f i n y state , in consequence some alse malicious formation ; and that his prison was no other th an the hous e

of for of d a messenger , set apart the accommodation suspecte f f persons . In this Opinion he com orted himsel by recollect

own an d ing his conscious innocence, reflecting that he should

of ha bea s c r us in be entitled to the privilege o p , as the act cluding that inestimable jewel was happily n ot suspended at

this time .

f- u Consoled by this sel assurance, he q ietly resigned him

f f f a sel to slumber ; but be ore he ell asleep , he was very dis ll gr ee ably undeceived in his conjecture . His ears were a at a f m in once saluted with noise ro the next room , conveyed distinct bounces against the wainscot ; then an hoarse voice ’ — B rutandorf s exclaimed , Bring up the artillery let bri — gade a dvance detach my black hussars to ravage the coun — — try let them be new booted take particular care of the — — spur - leathers make a desert of Lusatia bombard the su of a— o e burbs Per g , tell my brother Henry to pass the Elb at f a f —s o Meissen with orty batt lions and fi ty squadrons ho, ’ ou - y major general Donder , why don t you finish your se — — ’ c ond parallel send hither the engineer Shittenback I ll

lay all the shoes in my shop , the breach will be practica — ’ ble in four - and - twenty hours don t tell me of your works ’ ’ ou y and your works may be damn d . ’ f ff Assuredly , cried another voice rom a di erent quarter,

l he that thinks to be saved by works is in a state of utter re

—I f fa probation mysel was a pro ne weaver, and trusted to — ’ the rottenness of works I kept my journeymen and pren tices at constant work; and my heart was set upon the riches

of a — this world , which was wicked work but now I have — got a glimpse of the new light I feel the operations of grace — — I am of the new bi rth I abhor good works-m l detest all

THE ADVENTURE S or all the flowers of elocution but when he rose in the morn ; f fu ing , he ound his pockets had been care lly examined , and

of a emptied all his p pers and ca sh .

a a The keeper entering, he inquired bout these p rticulars,

a f and was given to understand , th t they were all sa ely de

for us e f a t a posited his , to be orthcoming proper season

for h ad but, at present , as he should want nothing , he no occasion for money . The knight acquiesced i n this declara f tion , and eat his break ast in quiet . f About eleven , he received a visit rom the physician , who contemplated his looks with great solemnity ; an d hav ing

' u a examined his p lse, shook his head , s ying, Well , sir, ’ ’ h ow — — for d ye do come, don t be dejected every thing is — the best you are in very good hands , sir, I assure you ; and I dare s ay will refuse nothing ‘that may be thought con f ’ duciv e to the recovery o your health . ’ ‘ a if Doctor, s id our hero , it is not an improper ques

to ask a n of tion , I should be gl d to know your opinio m y ’ ’

e . ! a disord r O sir, as to th t , replied the physician , ’ ‘ a — of a— in your disorder is kind sir, tis very common — ’ ‘ this country a sort of a Do you think my distemper ’ ? a is madness , doctor O Lord , sir, not bsolute madness

— m — a a d of no not adness you h ve he rd , no oubt , what is

a of — h called a we kness the nerves , sir , thoug that is a very

for a inaccurate expression ; this phrase, denoting morbid ex

of a a f cess sens tion , seems to imply th t sensation itsel is owing to the loose cohesion of those m ateri al p articles which con s titute a of the nervous substance , inasmuch as the qu ntity ’ every effect must be proportion able to its cause ; now you ll

a if a e please to t ke notice, sir, the case were re lly what thes cc words seem to import , all bodies whose particles do not

of here with too great a degree proximity , would be ner

a — vous ; that is , endowed with sens tion Sir, I shall order some cooling things to keep you in due temperature ; and ’ — ’ you ll do very well Sir, your humble servant .

' h e So saying, retired, and our adventurer could not but think it was v ery hard that one man should not dare to ask i e the most ordinary question without being reputed mad, wh l R E Lo G V 2 SI LAUN C r RE A E s . 1 9

l e s another should talk nonsense by the hour, and yet be teemed as an oracle . The master of the house finding Sir Launcelot So ta me af h i and tractable, indulged him ter dinner wit a walk n a

a under the of a a f w little private g rden , eye serv nt who ollo ed him at a distance . Here he was saluted by a brother

man of l prisoner , a seemingly turned thirty , ta l and thin,

- f o h with staring eyes, a hook nose, and a ace c vered wit pimples . l The usual comp iments having passed , the stranger, w f if him ithout urther ceremony , asked he would oblige of him m f of with a chew tobacco , or could spare a outh ul of any sort cordial , declaring he had not tasted brandy since he ca me to the house . The knight assured him it was not in his power to comply with his request ; and began to ask

a of some questions relating to the char cter their landlord,

unfav ourable c olours which the stranger represented in very . i be rufli an a of He descr d him as a , c pable undertaking the of l w darkest schemes vi lany . He said his house as a reposi tory of the most flagrant iniqui tles : that it contained fathers kidnapped by their children , wives confined by their hus of f bands , gentlemen ortune seq uestered by their relations, and innocent persons immured by the malice of thei r adver f s own if our s aries . He a firmed thi was his case ; and asked

of a r . hero had never heard Dick Distich , the poet and s ti ist l ’ d Ben Bu lock and I , said he, were confi ent against the — world in arms did you never see his ode to me beginning ’

b . with Fair looming youth We were sworn brothers, e : admir d and practised , and quoted each other, sir we de

nced a nou war against all the world , actors , uthors, and cri

tics ; and having drawn the sword , threw away the scab —w h bard e pushed throug thick and thin , hacked and hew f ed , helter skelter, and became as ormidable to the writers fr of the age as the B oeotian band of Thebes . My iend Bul l n lock , indeed , was once ro led in the kennel ; but soo

’ ’ H e vi rous rose and from th eflluvia s ron g , t g ' Imbib d new ife and s ecur ed and Stun a on . l , k l g

in - e w en Here is a satire, which I wrote an ale hous h I was 2 20 THE ADVEN T URES or — drunk I can prove it by the ev idence of the landlord and ’ his wife ; I fancy you ll own I have some right to say with m f y riend Horace,

ui me commori t m eh us non ta n ere c amo Q , g l Flebit ct insignis tota ca ntabitur urbe

e i The knight, having perused the papers , declared his p nion that the verses were tolerably good but at the same time observed that the author h ad reviled as ignorant dunces

a and e several persons who had writ with reput tion , were g n erally allowed to have genius : a circumstance that would detract more from his candour than could be allowed to his

capacity . ’ ! i of im Damn their genius cried the sat rist, a pack ! l pertinent rascals I tell you , sir, Ben Bu lock and I had d etermined to crush all th at were not of our own party ’ a f B esides , I s id be ore , this piece was written in drink . ’ Was you drunk too when it w a s printed and published ? a a f a h a Yes , the printer sh ll m ke a fid vit t t I was never other w a or a on ise th n drunk m udlin , till my enemies , pretence f that my brain was turned , conveyed me to this in ernal ’ mansion . f ’ They seem to have been your best riends , said the a on knight , and have put the most tender interpret tion

for a of a your conduct ; , w ving the plea ins nity, your cha r a cter must stand a s th a t of a man who hath some small s of an of —Of hare genius , without atom integrity all those u one wh o whom Pope lashed in his D nciad, there was not

not of did richly deserve the imputation dulness , and every one of them had provoked the satirist by a personal attack . In this respect the English poet was much more

a honest than his French p ttern Boileau , who stigmatized

of a several men acknowledged genius ; such as Quin ult,

for Perrault , and the celebrated Lulli ; which reason every

' man of in s ite of l a liberal turn , must, p all his poetica m If disi erit, despise him as a rancorous knave . this n g enuous conduct cannot be forgiven in a writer of his superior

in lf genius , who will pardon it you whose name is not ha ’ emerged fr om obscurity ?

2 22 TH E ADVENT URES or

S of f Sign , and then I hould be abridged the little com ort I ma a a enjoy . People y inveigh g inst the Bastile in France, if and the Inquisition in Portugal ; but I would ask , either of these be in reality so dangerous or dreadful as a private

- a i of r fli mad house in Engl nd , under the d rection a u an ?

The Bastile is a state prison , the Inquisition is a spiritual

are o tribunal ; but both under the direction f government . if a is It seldom , ever, happens th t a man entirely innocent

if u a confined in either ; or , he sho ld , he lays his ccount f a a u . a with legal tri l be ore established j dges But , in Engl nd , the most innocent person upon earth is li able to be immured

for f of f li e under the pretext lunacy , sequestered rom his w f an d f of f i e, children , riends , robbed his ortune , deprived

of a an d th e even necess ries , subjected to most brutal treat

f - a a a a for ment rom a low bred b rb ri n , who raises an mple

on of f - tune the misery his ellow creatures , and may , during f his whole li e , practise this horrid oppression , without ques ’ tion or control . This uncomfortable reverie was interrupted by a very nu expected sound that seemed to issue from the other side of

- l . of a a thick party wa l It was a strain voc l music, more ’ ’ w idow d and plaintive than the turtle s moan , more sweet ’

- ravishing than Philomel s love warbled song . Through his ear it instantly pierced into his heart ; for at once he re cog

nized it to be the voice of his adored Aurelia . Heavens !

of s on] what was the agitation his , when he made this dis covery ! h ow did every nerve quiver ! h ow did his heart throb with the most violent emotion he ran round the room

a f — in distr ction , oaming like a lion in the toil then he placed if his ear close to the partition , and listened as his whole f soul was exerted in his sense o hearing . When the sound

on e ar f on ceased to vibrate his , he threw himsel the bed ;

he groaned with anguish , he exclaimed in broken accents ; all h ad and in probability his heart would have burst, not f the violence of his sorrow found vent in a flood o tears .

hese firs t of T transports were succeeded by a fit impatience, which had well nigh deprived him of his senses in good ear

nest . His surprise at fi nding his lost Aurelia in such a place, I R E S LA UN C LOT GREAVES . 2 23

' m m of the see ing i possibility relieving her , and his unspeak able eagerness to contrive some scheme for profiting by the interesting discovery he h ad made ; concurred in brewing u p a second ecstacy , during which he acted a thousand ex trava ances for g , which it was well him the attendants did for a n ot observe . Perhaps it was well the serv nt th at he did not enter while the paroxysm prevailed : had this been the f of L chas m case , he might have met with the ate y , who

Hercules in his frenzy destroyed . f for Be ore the cloth was laid supper , he was calm enough to conceal the disorder of his mind : but he complained of h eadach da the , and desired he might be next y visited by f in the physician , to whom he resolved to explain himsel such a manner, as should make an impression upon him , provided he was not altogether destitute of conscience and hum anity .

CHAPTER XXIV .

h kn t tha t uzzles huma n wi s d m the han d o F r T e o p o , f o tune metimes w ill un tie a mili ar as her a r t r s o f g e . q ' / hV rrE N the doctor made his next appearance in Sir Launce ’ a a lot s partment , the knight ddressed him in these words, of one of Sir , the practice medicine is the most honour able professions exercised among the sons of men ; a pro fes sion - which has been revered at all periods , and in all n of ations , and even held sacred in the most polished ages

of antiquity . The scope it is to preserve the being , and

of f - of confirm the health our ellow creatures ; consequence,

n of n f f to sustai the blessings society , and crow li e with rui

of a f tion . The character a physici n , there ore , not only sup

Sa poses natural gacity , and acquired erudition , but it also l of of imp ies every delicacy sentiment , every tenderness f a o . nature, and every virtue humanity That these qu lities

ou : are centered in y , doctor, I would willingly believe but it f t for will be su ficien my purpose , that you are possessed 2 24 TH E ADVE NTU RES or

of common integrity . To whose concern I am indebted for your visits you best know : but if you understand the art of h m h medicine , you must be sensible by t is ti e , that , wit ar e respect to me , your prescriptions altogether unnecessary ’ - — i come, sir , you cannot you don t believe that my ntellects

. a to are disordered Yet , gr nting me be really under the of a a a t influence th t deplorable m l dy , no person has a righ

as m to treat me a lunatic , or to sue out a com ission , but my

a ma a a of nearest kindred . Th t you y not ple d ignor nce my

n d f a name a amily , you shall understand th t I am Sir Launce

a of of : m lot Gre ves , the county York , baronet and that y

a a a w of the nearest rel tion is Sir Regin ld Me do s , Cheshire ,

‘ of — a m eldest son my mother s sister that gentleman , I sure, had no concern in seducing. me by false pretences under the

of the f clouds night into ields , where I was surprised , over

an d a a ff . powered , kidn pped by rmed ru ians Had he really a to believed me insane , he would h ve proceeded according of of his the dictates honour , humanity , and the laws

a country . Situated as I am , I have a right , by making p r f plication to the lord chancello , to be tried by a jury o

of a f honest men . But th t rig ht I cannot avail mysel , while

of e I remain at the mercy a brutal miscreant , in whose hous

am . I inclosed , unless you contribute your assistance Your

f a a assistance , there ore, I dem nd , as you are a gentlem n , a

a f - r christian , and ellow subject , who , though every othe f motive should be overlooked , ought to interest himsel in my case as a common concern , and concur with all your power towards the punishment of those who dare commit such out f ’ rage against the liberty o your country . e a f The doctor seem d to be little disconcerted ; but, a ter of ff some recollection , resumed his air su iciency and im s our u ll portance , and a sured adventurer he wo ld do him a ' him the service in his power ; but , in the meantime, advised to take the potion he had prescribed . ’ The knight s eyes lightening with indignation , I am ’ ou are i now convinced , cried he, that y an accomplice n th e villany which has been practised upon me ; that you o or are a s rdid wretch , without principle feeling , a disgrace

TH E ADVENTURE S or of one hundred guineas , to be paid to him upon his making ” the discovery required .

e . The porter who delivered the letter, appear d accord in l f g y, but could give no other in ormation , except that it h man f u was put into his hand , with a s illing, by a mu fled p

for his in a great coat, who stopped him the purpose , in passing through Queen street . I t was n ecessary that the ff advertisement should produce an e ect upon another person , who was no other than the hackney - coachman who drove o r f u hero to the place of his imprisonment . This ellow had n u been enjoined secrecy , and , indeed bribed to hold his to g e,

a by a considerable gr tification , which , it was supposed , a ff ma would h ve been e ectual , as the man was a ster coach in man good circumstances , and well known to the keeper of - on f the mad house, by whom he had been employed ormer occasions of the same nature . Perhaps his fidelity to his

f of f of employer, rein orced by the hope many uture jobs that f ff of f kind , might have been proo against the o er fi ty pounds but double that sum was a temptation he could not resist . i n He no sooner read the intimation the Daily Advertiser, ’ an o over his morning s pot at alehouse , than he entered int con sultation with his own thoughts ; and having no reason f to doubt that this was the very are he had conveyed , he f all ad resolved to earn the reward , and abstain rom such in h d . a ventures time coming He the precaution , however, an en to take attorney along with him to Mr Clarke, who t ere d of into a conditional bond , and , with the assistance f the his uncle, deposited the money , to be orthcoming when i f s cond tions should be ulfilled . These previous measure

a a being t ken the co chman declared what he knew, and dis covered the house in which Sir Launcelot had been immur ’ ed . He moreover a ccompanied our two adherents to a judge s f f chamber, where he made oath to the truth o his in orma

a the tion and a warr nt was immediately granted, to search

of a house Bern rd Shackle, and set at liberty Sir Launcelot if f Greaves , there ound .

Fortified with this authority, they engaged a constable, w f ith a ormidable posse, and embarking them in coaches, rn O s LAUNCEL T GREAVE S. 2 27

re all to house of repai d , with possible expedition , the Mr wh o ot e Shackle , did n think proper to disput their claim , not but admitted them , though without be traying e vident symptoms of consternation . One of the servants directing ’ ’ his them , by master s order , to Sir Launcelot s apartment, e a th y hurried up st irs in a body , occasioning such a noise, did fa i as not il to alarm the physic an , who had just opened e h the door to r tire , when he perceived t eir irruption . Cap f f tain Crowe , conjecturing he was guilty , rom the con usion is of that appeared in h countenance , made no scruple s eiz him ing by the collar, as he endeavoured to retreat ; while

- e Tom the tender h arted Clarke, running up to the knight , w f of ff f o th ith his eyes brim ul joy and a ection , org t all e f of d t e orms istan resp ct,and, throwing his arms around his

in . neck , blubbered his bosom Our hero did not receive this proof of his attachment un

. in hi moved He strained him his embrace, honoured m ‘ of w t mi l with the title his deliverer , and asked him by ha rac e d f l w he had discovere the place o his confinement . The a yer began to unfo ld the various steps he had taken with

f- n equal minuteness and sel complacency , whe Crowe , drag

old fr ging the doctor still by the collar, shook his iend by the d i ot han , protesting he was never so overjoyed s nce he g clear of a Sallee rover on the coast of Barbary : and that two glasses ago he woul d have started all the money he had in the world in the hold of any man who would have shewn

S r af . i i Launcelot s e at his moorings The knight, hav ng made a proper return to this sincere manifestation of good im t f i will , de sired h to dismiss tha worthless ellow , mean ng in f h the doctor, who , find g himsel released, withdrew wit some precipitation . our f h Then adventurer, attended by his riends , walked wit f a deliberate pace to the outward gate, which he ound open , of the the and getting into one coaches , w as entertained by own of h way to his house , with a detail every measure whic had been pursued for his release . In own f his parlour he ound Mrs Dolly Cowslip , who had been waiting with great fear and impatience for th e issue of ’ n w f Mr Clarke s adventure . She o ell upon her knees, and 2 2 8 THE ADVENTURE S or

’ bathed the knight s hands with tears of joy ; while the face

of a of tr this young woman , rec lling the idea her mis ess ,

roused his heart to strong emotions , and stimulated his mind s to the immediate achievement he h ad already planned . A for Crabshaw f s atisfac Mr , he was not the last to signi y his ’ f of tion at his master s return . A ter having kissed the hem

a communicat his garment , he retired to the st ble , where he f ed these tidings to his riend Gilbert , whom he saddled and bridled ; the same office he performed for B ron zomar te : ’ t on - m he hen putting his squire like attire and accoutre ents , on e s f e mounted , and led the other to the knight door, be or h e f m which paraded, uttering , rom ti e to time , repeated shouts,

a of a re to the no small entert inment the popul ce , until he

ceived . orders to house his companions Thus commanded, r e he led them back to their stalls , resumed his livery , and

f - wh o joined his ellow servants , were resolved to celebrate the

day with banquets and rejoicings . ’ Their master s heart was n ot sufficiently at ease to share f f in in their estivity . He held a consultation with his riends

a a a the parlour , whom he cqu inted with the re sons he had to believe Miss Darnel was confined in the same house which had been his prison : a circumstance which filled them with a and equ l pleasure astonishment . Dolly in particular, weep f ing plenti ully , conjured him to deliver her dear lady with

out . now delay Nothing remained , but to concert the plan r h ad f f fo her deliverance . As Aurelia in ormed Dolly o her Kawdle at connection with Mrs , whose h ouse she proposed f a on to lodge, be ore she was overt ken the road by her uncle , a and this p rticular was now imparted to the council , struck a light which seemed to point out the direct way to Miss ’ Darnel s enlargement . O ur Tom hero , accompanied by Mrs Cowslip and Clarke,

out a for of K awdle set immedi tely the house Dr , who hap a f pened to be broad , but his wi e received them with great

- courtesy . She was a well bred , sensible , genteel woman , and a of ff strongly ttached to Aurelia , by the ties a ection as of well as consanguinity . She no sooner learned the situa of n tion her cousin , tha she expressed the most impatient

f ~ concern or her being set at liberty , and assured Sir Launce

9230 THE ADVENTURE S or

w — t n she, with a sigh , I kno not what to say tha gentlema , — — Sir Launcelot Greaves was surely born Lord bless me 2 ’

r . I tell you , cousin , he has been my gua dian angel Kaw le Mrs d , who had maintained a correspondence with

e s no n f of e her by l tter , was stra ger to the ormer part the con

‘ ‘ n ection we s subsisting bet en those two lovers , and had alway f the e s of avoured pret n ions our hero, without being acquaint ed a with his person . She now observed , with smile, that as h e Aurelia esteemed the knight her guardian angel , and

o m - ad red her as a de i deity , nature seemed to have intended them for each other ; for such sublime ideas exalted them

both above the sphere of ordinary mortals . She then ven tured m to intimate that he was in the house, i patient to pay

his respects in person . At this declaration the colour vanish f a ed rom her cheeks , which however soon underwent a tot l

ff o m su usion . Her heart panted, her b so heaved, and her gentle frame was agitated by transports ra ther violent than f unpleasing . She soon , however, recollected hersel , and her n f ative serenity returned ; when , rising rom her seat, she

a a he declared she would see him in the next p rtment, where

for stood in the most tumultuous suspence, waiting permis

r . sion t o approach her pe son Here she broke in upon him , l of arrayed in an e egant white undress, the emblem her f of purity , beaming orth the emanations amazing beauty, warmed and improved with a glow of gratitude and affec

tion . His heart was too big for utterance ; he ran towards f f her with rapture, and throwing himsel at her eet , imprint

e d a f on . most respect ul kiss her lily hand This, divine ’ ‘ f of ff Aurelia, cried he, is a oretaste that ine able bliss which — you Was born to bestow l Do I then live to see you smile ? s ee again to you restored to liberty, your mind at ease , and ’ a your health unimpaired You h ve lived , said she, to see my obligations to Sir Launcelot Greaves accumulated in f acknowled such a manner, that a whole li e spent in g ment will scarce suffice to demonstrate a due sense of his ’ - goodness . You greatly over rate my services , which

b of th e have een rather the duties common humanity , than

‘ eff f be orts o a generous passion, too noble to thus evinced ; 1 SIR LAUNCELOT GREAVE S . 2 3

- but let not my unseasonable transports detain you a mo . — ment longer on this d ete sted scene give me leave to hand

ou i of y nto the coach , and commit you to the care this good un lady , attended by this honest yq g gentleman , who is my ’

f . particular riend So saying, he presented Mr Thomas f of Clarke , who had the honour to salute the air hand the

ever amiable Aurelia .

The ladies being safely coach ed under the es cort of the r o ss r m u on h lawyer, Sir Launcel t a u ed the he sho ld wait t em of K awdle e i in the evening at the house Dr , whith r they m O ur mediately directed their course. hero, who remained i for w th the constable and his gang, inquired Mr Bernard S s d r f hackle, upon who e person he inten ed to se ve a writ o s e for e in con piracy , over and abov a prosecution robb ry , consequence of his having disencumbered the knight of his m e ff on s of oney and oth r e ects , the fir t night his confi ne n e ment . Mr Shackle had discretio nough to avoid this

and n to a for f encounter, eve anticip te the indictment elony , by directin g one of his servants to res tore the cash and pa whi ch ' our e f pers , adventurer accordingly r ceived be ore he

quitted the house . n of f Shakle In the prosecutio his search a ter , he chanced t o “ of f enter the chamber the bard , whom he ound in dish a

v one e e bille, writing at a table , with a bandage o er y , and

- of his head covered with a night cap baize . The knight , for i having made an apology this intrusion , des red to know if of ic he could be any serv e to Mr Distich , as he was now at liberty to use the little influence he had for the relief of

f - Th his ellow sufferers . e poet having eyed him for some ’ ‘ time askance , I told you , said he, your stay in this place “ f would be o short duration . I have sustained a small dis on f f of c w aster my le t eye, rom the hands a ras ally cord ainer, f the of who pretends to believe himsel king Prussia , and I am n ow in the very act of galling his majes ty with keen If ou f iambics . y can help me to a roll o tobacco and a bot

of - if m e tle geneva, so you are not so inclined , your hu bl ’

s f . ervant , I shall share in the joy o your deliverance f n in t e la The knight declined grati yi g him h se particu rs, w ea hich he apprehended might be prejudicial to his h lth , 5232 TH E ADVENTURE S or

ff a s ro~ but o ered his ssistance in redressing his grievance , p v ided he laboured under any cruel trea tment or inconve ”

m . fu of nie ce I comprehend the ll extent your generosity , r eplied the satirist ; you are willing to a ssist me in every x thing , e cept the only circumstances in which assistance is ’ ’ — b w e—If him required God y you see Ben Bullock, tell I w ish he would not dedicate any more of his works to me . f l to Damn the e low, he has changed his note, and begins s . f f all nivel For my part , I stick to my ormer maxim , de y

n if the world, and will die hard , eve death should be pre ’ c eded by damnation .

r f slen The knight , finding him incor igible, le t him to the der chance of being on e day comforted by the dram - bottle ;

if on f an a but resolved , possible, to set oot accur te inquiry into the economy and transactions of this private inquisition , that ample justice might be done in favour of every injured individual confined within its walls . In the afternoon he did not fail to v isit his Aurelia ; and all the protestations of their mutual passion were once more interchanged . He now produced the letter which had caused such fatal disquiet in his bosom and Miss Darnel no sooner e f dismis yed the paper, than she recollected it was a ormal

for a . sion , which she had intended and directed Mr Syc more in This the uncle had intercepted, and cunningly inclosed

another cover, addressed to Sir Launcelot Greaves , who was now astonished beyond measure to see the mystery so easily f of un olded . The joy that now diffused itself in the hearts our lovers, is more easily conceived than described ; but , in f order to give a stability to this mutual satis action , it was necessary that Aurelia should be secured from the tyranny of of her uncle , whose power guardianship would not otherwise for expire some months . Dr K awdle and his lady having entered into their delibera on a tions this subject , it was agreed that Miss D rnel should have recourse to the protection of the lord ch ancellor ; but a such pplication was rendered unnecessary , by the unexpect ed arrival of John Clump with the following letter to Mrs

K awdle f of a A n rom the steward Anthony Darnel, d ted at ’ r elia s house in the country .

234 THE AD VE N T URE S OF

for ffi upon this o ce, the necessary forms were executed with

all possible dispatch .

of o The first use the doctor made his guardianship , was t sign a power, constituting Mr Ralph Mattocks his attorney r o tem r e for p p o , managing the estate of Miss Aureli a Dar nel and this was forwarded to the steward by the hands of

out for of - Clump , who set with it the seat Darnell hill , though

i not without a heavy heart, occas oned by some intimation he h ad received concerning the connection between his dear

Dolly and Mr Clarke the lawyer .

CHAPTER THE L A ST .

’ Which i t i s ho ed w ill be on more a ccounts tha n one , p , , , a l g r eea b e to the r ea der .

SI R T e LAUNCELO , having vindicat d the liberty , confirmed

f an d of the sa ety, secured the heart , his charming Aurelia, n ow found ' leis ure to unravel the conspiracy which had been executed against his person and with that View commenced a law - suit against the owner of the house where he and his

fi . mistress had been separately con ned Mr Shackle was , n otwithstanding all the submissions and atonement which h e

ff a or on o ered to make , either in priv te in public, indicted of e e the statute kidnapping, tried, convict d , punish d by a

. i a a d severe fine, and standing in the pillory A jud ci l writ i n uir endum of n q being executed , the prisons his inquisitio were laid open , and several innocent captives enlarged . ’ ’ In the course of Shackle s trial it appeared that the knight s confinement was a scheme executed by his rival Mr Syca of more, according to the device his counsellor, Dawdle, e f a who, by this contrivance , had reconcil d himsel to his p

f him of . O ur tron , a ter having deserted in the day battle ’ hero was so incensed at this discovery of Sycamore s treachery

of m and ingratitude , that he went in quest him im ediately, on to take vengeance his person , accompanied by Captain

who a h D d . Crowe, w nted to balance accounts wit Mr aw le V s rR LA un cELor G REA E S . 235

B ut those gentlemen had wisely avoided the impending h on e of s torm,by retiring to t e continent, pretenc travelling for improvement .

Sir Launcelot was not now so much of a knight - errant as

of r n to leave Aurelia to the care P ovide ce , and pursue the

of a s traitors to the farthest extremities the earth . He pr cti ed

ff a of a much more easy, certain , and e ectu l method revenge, n f r of by instituti g a process against them , which , a te writs ca ia s a lia s et lur i es b m p , , p , had been repeated , su jected the w f both to outla ry . Mr Sycamore and his riend being thus of of own deprived the benefit the law , by their neglect, would likewise have forfeited their goods and ch attles to the not king, had they made such submissions as appeased the wrath of Sir Launcelot and Captain Crowe ; then they ven tured of l to return , and by dint interest obtained a reversa f o the outlawry . But this grace they did not enjoy till long f a f a ter our adventurer was h ppily established in li e . While the knight w aited impatiently for the expiration of ’ u i f A relia s m nority , and in the meantime consoled himsel f f with the imper ect happiness arising rom her conversation , and those indulgences which the most unblemished virtue

of could bestow, Captain Crowe projected another plan n ve geance against the conjuror, whose lying oracles had cos t

him w of . such a orld vexation The truth is, the captain of began to be tired idleness , and undertook this adventure

to keep his hand in use . He imparted his design to Crab s ff f haw, who had likewise su ered in spirit rom the predic of ff tions the said o ender, and was extremely well disposed n f now fo to assist in pu ishing the alse prophet . He took it r granted that he should not be hanged for stealing a horse and thought it very hard to pay so much money for a de ceitful in prophesy , which , all likelihood , would never be

fulfilled .

u e m out for Act ated by th se otives , they set together the house of consultation ; but they found it shut up and aban

d oned » ; and , upon inquiry in the neighbourhood , learned that the conjuror had moved his quarters very day on _ that w i hich the captain had recourse to his art . Th s was actu 286 THE ADVE NTURE S or ally the case : he knew the fate of Sir L auncelot would soon come to light, and he did not choose to wait the consequence . He had other motives for decamping : he had run a score at

h ad an d the public house, which he no mind to discharge ,

i f f f wh o wanted to d sengage himsel rom his emale associate, too of ff knew much his a airs to be kept at a proper distance . f All these purposes he had answered by retreating so tly, w of ithout beat drum , while his sybil was abroad running for . n down prey his devouring He had not , however, take

a old h a his me sures so cunningly , but that this g discovered n ew f his lodgings , and, in revenge , gave in ormation to the

a . out a public n This creditor took a writ ccordingly , and the bailiff had just secured his person as C aptai n Crowe and Timothy Crabsh aw chanced to pass by the door in their n way homewards, through an obscure street near the Seve

Dials . f f The conjurer having no subter uge le t, but a great many. particular reasons for avoiding an explanation with the jus of two tice, like the man between the devil and the deep sea, evils choose the least ; and beckoning to the captain , called h . a him by his name Crowe, thus addressed, replied wit H illoah and looking towards the place from whence he

a . was h iled , at once recognized the necromancer Without f h e urther hesitation sprang across the street , and collaring lbumazar ! old A , exclaimed , Aha boy , is the wind in that — — corner I thought we should grapple one day now will in l I bring you up by the head , though all the devils hel f ’ were blowing aba t the beam . ff f The baili seeing his prisoner so roughly handled be ore,

Crabs haw w ho and at the same time assaulted behind by , ’ l ou f— is cried , Shew me a iar, and I ll shew y a thie who a i ff f to be h nged now I say , the bail , earing he would lose the of a f benefit his job , beg n to put on his contentious ace, d an , declaring the doctor was his prisoner, swore he could not surrender him without a warrant from the lord- chief justice . The whole gr oup adjourning into the parlour , the conjurer desi red to know of Crowe whether Sir Launcelot was f ? n E e af h see ound bei g answered , y, y, s e enoug to

238 THE ADVENTURES or

except prognosticating that Crabshaw would be hanged ; a f f prediction to which I ound mysel so irresistibly impelled , — that I am persuaded it was the real effect of inspiration I

s for s um of and am now arre ted a paltry money , , moreover, — liable to be sent to Bridewell as an impostor let those e u swer for my conduct whose cruelty and insolence h ave driven — me to the necessity of using such subterfuges I have been oppressed and persecuted by the government for speaking — truth your omnipotent laws have reconciled contradictions — in f That which is acknowledged to be truth act, is construed falsehood in law ; and great reason we have to boast

f f on of i — o a constitution ounded the basis absurd ty But, own am r waving these remarks , I I unwilling to be eithe — imprisoned for debt, or pu nished for imposture I know far be how to depend upon generosity , and what is called — n ev olence a - I n , words to muse the weak minded build upo — a surer bottom I will bargai n for your assistance—it is in my power to put twelve thousand pounds in the pocket of

- ruffian who Samuel Crowe, that there sea , by his good will would hang me to the yard’s arm ‘ e the Ther he was interrupted by seaman . Damn your ’ — rat s eyes none of your hang thee fish my topmasts if ’ the rope was fairly reeved , and the tackle sound , d ye see t Mr Clarke , who was present , began to stare , while the knigh if l assured Ferret , that , he was really able and wil ing to serve i Captain Crowe n any thing essential , he should be amply

rewarded. In the meantime he discharged the debt, and w assigned him an apartment in his o n house . That same ad of w day Crowe, by the vice Sir Launcelot and his nephe , him entered into conditional articles with the cynic, to allow

of f for f the interest fi teen hundred pounds li e, provided by his means the captain should obtain possession of the estate

of - h Hobby ole in Yorkshire , which had belonged to his

f of of . grand ather, and which he was heir blood

This bond being executed , Mr Ferret discovered that he f f of d himsel was the law ul husband Bri get Maple, aunt to w Samuel Cro e , by a clandestine marriage ; which , however,

he convinced them he could prove by undeni able evidence . s rR L AUNCE LOT GREAVE S. 239

e a lias . This being the case, she, the said Bridget Mapl , Fer ' cover emme ret, was a tf , consequently could not transact any of deed alienation without his concurrence ergo , the dock

' ing of the entail of the estate of Hobby- hole was illegal and f ff o none e ect . This was a very agreeable declaration to the who f whole company , did not ail to congratulate Captain Crowe on the prospect of his being restored to his inherit e; hi anc Tom Clarke in particular, protested , with tears in s him o eyes, that it gave unspeakable jy ; and his tears trick f r an led the aste , when Crowe, with arch look, signified, that now for f he was pretty well victualled li e, he had som e f thoughts o embarking on the voyage of matrimony . But of e that point happiness to which , as the north pol ,

of the course these adventures hath been invariably directed , f he was still unattained ; we mean , the indissoluble union o t accomplished Sir Launcelot Greaves and the enchanting in Miss Darnel . Our hero now discovered his mistress a to thousand charms, which hitherto he had no opportunity

f ~ x ll d contemplate . He ound her beauty e ce e by her good f nu sense, and her virtue superior to both . He ound her

d aff tainted by that gid iness , vanity, and ectation , which dis tinguish the fashionable females of the present age : he found her uninfected by the rage for diversionand dissipation ; for

a f noise, tumult , gewgaws , glitter , and extrav gance ; he ound her not only raised by understanding and taste far above th e

of t nu amusement lit le vulgar minds , but even exalted by h th e common genius and refined reflection , so as to relis more sublime enjoyments of rational pleasure : he found her possessed of that vigour of mind which constitutes true for titude of : f , and vindicates the empire reason he ound her of or f heart incapable disguise dissimulation ; rank , gener ous of , and Open ; susceptible the most tender impressions ;

of hu~ glowing with a keen sense honour, and melting with m of not f of anity . A youth his sensibility could ail being ff a deeply a ected by such attractions . The nearer he p

roached of p the centre happiness, the more did the velocity of his passion increase . Her uncle still remained insensible a of in s it were in the arms death . Time seemed to linger 9 40 THE ADVE NTURES or

till m de a its lapse , the knight was inflamed to the ost eager gr ee of impatience . He communicated his distress to A u reli a ; he pressed her with the most pathetic remonstrances f to abridge the torture o his suspense . He interested Mrs

wdle f at K a in his behal , and length his importunity succeed

of a a ed . The banns marri g e were regul rly published , and

w a s f a the ceremony per ormed in the p rish church , in the

f Kawdle a w L aw presence o Dr and his l dy , Captain Cro e ,

and . yer Clarke, Mrs Dolly Cowslip of ff of The bride, instead being disguised in tawdry stu s l and a a of gold or si ver, swe ting under a h rness diamonds ,

of a according to the elegant taste the times , appe red in a

of a n negli gee pl in blue satin , without any other jewels tha

h far all w as her eyes , whic outshone that ever produced by the mines of Golconda . Her hair had no other extraneous ornamen t than a small sprig of artificial roses ; but the dig

of a of nity her air, the eleg nce her shape, the sweetness and

of a of co sensibility her counten nce , added to such warmth

of f louring , and such exquisite symmetry eatures , as could

a not be excelled by human n ture, attracted the eyes and ex f ff cited the admira tion o all the beholders . The e ect they

of produced in the heart Sir Launcelot , was such a rapture as we cann ot pretend to describe . He made his appearance

n . h o this occasion in a white coat and a blue satin vest , bot embroidered with silver ; and all who s aw him could not but own that he alone seemed worthy to possess the lady whom

Heaven had destined for his consort . Captain Crowe had taken off a blue suit of clothes strongly guarded with bars of l of f broad gold ace , in order to honour the nuptials his riend

u - a la i eon an he wore pon his head a bag wig p g , made by l old acquaintance in “ apping ; and to his side he had gird cd a - of r e a huge pl te hilted sword , which he had bought a i a cru tin a . g serje nt Mr Clarke was dressed in pomp dour, with gold buttons ; and his lovely Dolly in a smart checked f lustring , a present rom her mistress . ed of The whole company din , by invitation , at the house Dr Kawdle ; and here it was that the most deserving lovers on the face of the earth attained to the consummation of all

2 42 THE ADVENTURES or

verily revered as beings of an order superior to th e ordi nary of d race mankind . This favourable response being obtaine f our on rom the sailor, hero took an opportunity the road , one f f to day a ter dinner, in presence o the whole company , f accost the lawyer in these words . My good riend Clarke, — I have your happiness very much at heart your father was f f an honest man , to whom my amily had mani old obliga h h d a a fo tions . I ave a these many y e rs personal regard r f f own of yoursel , derived rom your integrity heart and good of —I ff f ness disposition see you are a ected , and shall be brie

- f for Besides this regard , I am indebted to your riendship — — the liberty what shall I say for the inestim able happi n ow — ness I enjoy , in possessing the most excellent But I — understand that sign ificant glance of my Aurelia I will not ff — o end her delicacy The truth is , my obligation is very —If great, and it is time I should evince my gratitude the s of tewardship my estate is worth your accep tance, you shall

h fa of have it immediately , together wit the house and rm

Cockerton in my neighbourhood . I know you have a pas s for ion Mrs Dolly , and believe she looks upon you with — ’ — the eyes of tender prepossession don t blush Dolly besides your agreeable person , which all the world must approve,

ou can a of f . a t y bo st virtue, fidelity , and riendship Your tachment to Lady Greaves neither Sh e nor I shall ever forget - if f you are willing to unite your ate with Mr Clarke , your mistress gives me leave to assure you she will stock the farm own at her expense, and we will celebrate the wedding at ’ Greav e s b r - u y hall . By this time the hearts of these grateful lovers had overflow ’

cd . h e r lad s Dolly was sitting on her knees, bathing y hand with her tears ; and Mr Clarke appeared in the same atti

t a ff ude by Sir L uncelot . The uncle, almost as much a ected as

w f our the nephe , by the generosity o adventurer , cried aloud , I pray God th a t you and your glorious consort may have s mooth seas and gentle gales whithersoever you are bound ’ for Tom him u a as my kinsman , I ll give a tho s nd pounds to s et him fairly afloat ; and if he prove not a faithful tender to ou l f y his benefactor, I hope he wil ounder in this world , and SIR UN E LOT 2 LA C GREAVES . 43

’ be damned in that which is to come . Nothing now was wanting to the completion of their happiness but the consent

’ “ f th e o Dolly s mother at Black Lion , who they did not sup pose could have any objection to such an advantageous match for her daughter ; but in this particular they were mistaken . In the meantime they arrived at the village wher e the u of l an d h knight had exercised the d ties chiva ry , there e u of i the received the grat lation Mr F llet , and attorney who had offered to bail him before Justice Gobble . Mutual ci l him vi ities having passed , they gave to understand that

Gobble and his wife were turned methodists . All the rest of the prisoners whom he had delivered came to testify their

a . gr titude , and were hospitably entertained Next day they h alted at the Black Lion , where the good woman was over joyed to see Dolly so happily preferred ; but when Sir f Launcelot un olded the proposed marriage, sh e interrupted him with a scream Christ Jesus forbid—marry and amen 2 — ’ match with her own brother ! At this exclamation Dolly fainted ; her lover stood with h his ears erect, and his mout wide open ; Crowe stared , while the knight and his lady expressed equal surprise and concern . When Sir Launcelot entreated Mrs Cowslip to explain this mystery , she told him , that , about sixteen years l f ago, Mr Clarke senior had brought Dol y, then an in ant, her in to house, when she and her late husband lived ano ther part of the country ; and as sh e h ad then been lately of delivered a child which did not live, he hired her as a nurse to the little foundling . He owned she was a love

f for begotten babe , and rom time to time paid handsomely

of l who f r ow the board Do ly , he desired might pass o her n

d . n aughter In his last illness , he assured her he had take care to provide for the child ; but since his death she had received no account of any such provision . She moreover f in ormed his honour, that Mr Clarke had deposited in her hands a diamond ring, and a sealed paper, never to be open d in ed without his order , until Dolly should be emanded marriage by the man she should like, and not then, except 2 444 THE ADVE NT URES or

n e of of i the presenc the clergyman the parish . Send fur ’ i our nd the clergyman this nstant , cried hero, reddening, a ’ on h all fixing his eyes Dolly , I ope will yet be well . a The vicar arriving, and being made acqu inted with the

a of a n ture the case, the landl dy produced the paper ; which

a to an at being opened , ppeared be authentic certificate , th th e person commonly known by th e n ame of Dorothy Cow fa a of n slip, was in ct Dorothea Gre ves , daughter Jonatha n n Greaves, esquire , by a young gentlewoma who had bee

some years deceased . ’ i i of f f The rema n ng part the mystery I mysel can un old , k ran m e xclaimed the night , while he and e braced the asto ‘ h ished Dolly as his kinswoman . Jonathan Greaves was f of my uncle , and died be ore he came age , so that he could f of make no settlement on his child , the ruit a private amour,

on of of h founded a promise marriage, whic this ring was a of the token . Mr Clarke, being his confidant, disposed

child , and at length finding his constitution decay , revealed f one the secret to my ather, who in his will bequeathed hun

dred pounds a- year to this agreeable foundling ; but as they of n both died while I was abroad , and some the memora

a dums touching this transaction prob bly were mislaid, I never till now could discover where or how my pretty cousin w s for a situated . I shall recompense the good woman her

in aflair care and fidelity , and take pleasure bringing this to ’ a happy issue . The lovers were now overwhelmed with transports of joy u h and gratitude, and every countenance was lighted p wit f f satis action . From this place to the habitation o Sir Launce lot i n and a n the bells were rung every parish , the corpor tio in their formalities congratulated him in every town through

f r v ur - which he passed . About five miles rom G ea esb y hall he was met by above five thousand persons of both sexes and out a every age , dressed in their gayest pparel , headed by

f - f m Mr Ralph Mattocks rom Darnel hill , and the rector ro ’ w of the knight s o n parish . They were preceded by music

ff e v of f a di erent kinds , rang d under a great ariety l gs and e n nd e s w s the signs a the wom n, a ell a men , bedizened with

TRAVE LS

TH R O U GH

FRANCE A ND ITALY ;

C ON TAIN I NG

OBSER V T IO S ON C R C R CUSTOMS R ELIGION A N HA A TE , , , OV R NT O L E CO RC R S A N D G E NME , P IC , MME E , A T ,

AN T IQ U IT IES.

WI TH A A R TI C U LA R D E SC R I T I O N O F TH E TO WN TE R R I TORY P P , ,

A ND C L I M A TE O F N IC E .

To hich is added a Re is ter of the W eather e durin a Residence w , g , k pt g

of Eighteen Months in that City.

Ut homo ui er ranti comiter mons trat via m q ,

uas i lumen de m a la mina a ccen da t acit Q , f

’

N iki! omin i s i si luccat cum illi a en rzt. p , cc de

E NN I US.

S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . preceding winter : but I had many inducements to leave w f a . Engl nd My i e earnestly beg ged I would convey her from a country where every object served to nourish her grief ; I was in hopes that a succession of n ew scenes would

a a an d a off eng ge her ttention , gr dually call her mind from a series of painful reflections : and I imagined the change of of a h e air , and a journey ne r a t ousand miles , would hav

ff ow n a happy e ect upon my constitution . But as the s um was a a a d an d t oo for mer lready dv nce , the heat excessive

l wa at ul e trave ling in rm climates , I , proposed staying Bo ogn of a e till the beginning utumn , and in the meantime to bath in a the sea, with a view to strengthen and prep re my body f fa of or the tigues such a long journey . man f of A who travels with a amily five persons , must lay his account with a number of mortifi cations ; and some was of these I have already h appily overcome . Though I well acquainted with the road to Dover, and made allow

’ u the a ces accordingly , I could not help being chagrined at bad accommodation and impudent imposition to which I f we was exposed . These I ound the more disagreeable , as da on conse were detained a y extraordinary the road, in f ’ q uence of my wi e s being indisposed . l h I need not te l you this is the worst road in England, wit respect to the conveniences of travelling , and must certain ly impress foreigners with an unfavourable opinion of th e nation in general . The chambers are in general cold and f the com ortless , the beds paltry , the cookery execrable, wine poison , the attendance bad , the publicans insolent, and the bills extortion ; there is not a drop of tolerable malt liquor to be had from London to Dover . Every landlord and every waiter harangued upon the of n th e knavery a publica in Canterbury , who had charged French ambassador forty pounds for a supper that was not f l of worth orty shil ings . They talked much honesty and own i conscience ; but when they produced their b lls , they If appeared to be all of the same family and complexion . a l h it was reproach upon the Eng is nation , that an inn keeeper should pillage strangers at that rate it is a greater T RAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE AND I TALY. 2 51

l the f w scanda , that same ello should be able to keep his own i w ciuld house still open . I , I th nk it be for the honour of the kingdom to reform the abuses of this road ; and in particular to improve the avenue to London by the way of l Kent street , which is a most disgracefu entrance to such an f opulent city . A oreigner, in passing through this beggar. l d u of y an r inous suburb, conceives such an idea misery of and meanness, as all the wealth and magnificence Lon

f - don and Westminster are a terwards unable to destroy . A f of who f riend mine, brought a Parisian rom Dover in his own - to f p ost chaise, contrived enter Southwark a ter it was f a of dark , that his riend might not perceive the n kedness t t this quar er . This stranger was much pleased with the grea of fu of i i number shops ll merchand ze, l ghted up to the best di of i advantage . He was astonished at the splay riches n of Lombard street and Cheapside . The badness the pave ment made him find the streets twice as long as they were . They alighted in upper Brook street by Grosvenor square ; and when his conductor told him they were then about the of of middle London , the Frenchman declared, with marks infinite surprise, that London was very near as long as Paris .

off who On my arrival at Dover, I paid my coachman, w went a ay with a heavy heart . He wanted much to cross the sea, and endeavoured to persuade me to carry the coach If s et and horses to the other side . I had been resolved to out for l a n immediately the south , perhaps I shou d have t ke his i If him of adv ce . I had retained at the rate twenty guineas per month , which was the price he demanded , and e began my journey without hesitation , I should travel mor agreeably than I can expect to do in the carriages of this country ; and the difference of the expense would be a mere trifle . I would a dvise every m an who travels through i ow n or France to br ng his vehicle along with him , at least

to r one or - pu chase at Calais Boulogne , where second hand

berlins and chaises may be generally had at reasonable rates . I have been offered a very good berlin for thirty guineas f f ed but be ore I make the purchase, I must be better in orm t ff ouching the di erent methods of travelling in this country . 9252 S RO TRAVEL TH UGH F RANCE AND I TALY.

Dover is commonly termed a den of thieves : and I am afraid it is not altogether without reason it h as acquired this appellation . The people are said to live by piracy in tim e of war ; and by smuggling an d fleecing strangers in time of

a : s a pe ce but I will do them the justice to y, they make no f distinction between oreigners and natives . Without all doubt a man cannot be much worse lodged and worse treated in any part of Europe ; nor will he in any other place meet with

a a of f an d . more flagr nt inst nces raud , imposition , brutality One would imagine they had formed a general conspiracy

all against those who either go or return from the continent . About five years ago in my passage from Flushing to DO ,_

of - of ver, the master the packet boat brought to all a sud ' ofl fa den the South Foreland , although the wind was as v ourable as it could blow . He was immediately boarded

- ff of by a custom house boat, the o icer which appeared to be

f . his riend He then gave the passengers to understand , that low as it was water, the ship could not go into the harbour ; but that the heat would carry them ashore with their bag gage . The customhouse officer deman ded a guinea for this ser f th e vice, and the bargain was made . Be ore we quitted s to f - for at hip , we were obliged grati y the cabin boy his

- The tendance, and to give drink money to the sailors . boat w as run aground on the open beach ; but we could not of or f get ashore without the assistance three our fellows ,

‘ who insisted upon being paid for their trouble . Every parcel and bundle, as it was landed , was snatched up by a

: one - h separate porter ran away with a hat box, another wit

- of a wig box , a third with a couple shirts tied up in a hand f in kerchie , and two were employed carrying a small port our manteau that did not weigh forty pounds . All things to the were hurried to the customhouse be searched, and searcher was paid for disordering our clothes : from thence they were removed to the inn , where the porters demanded

in ~ half a crown each for their labour . It was vain to ex postulate ; they surrounded the house like a pack of hungry nd we e fa n to hounds, a raised such a clamour, that wer i

A N TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE D ITALY .

f f and languishing or want o sleep . At three in the morn off th e ing the master came down , and told us we were just

of off h e harbour Boulogne ; but the wind blowing shore, f o could not possibly enter, and there ore advised us to g

. d ashore in the boat I went upon eck to View the coast, a when he pointed to the place where h e s id Boulogne stood, n of declari g at the same time, we were within a short mile ’ n and the harbour s mouth . The mor ing was cold and raw , I knew myself extremely subj ect to catch cold ; n everth e

s o v d less , we were all impatient to get ashore, that I resol e

t . a a out o take his advice The boat was lre dy hoisted , and of f th we went on board it, a ter I had paid e captain , and f gratified his crew . We had scarce parted rom the ship , when we perceived a boat coming towards us from the shore ;

a a to and the m ster g ve us to understand , it was coming

carry us into the h arbour . When I objected to the trouble of f f one h shi ting rom boat to another in the Open sea, whic

b - - b w a s ( y the y) a little rough , he said it was a privilege which the wa terme n of Boulogne had to carry all passengers

a n ot V ashore , and th t this privilege he durst enture to in

fringe . This was no time nor place to remonstrate . The

- a f d French boat came along side , h l fille with water , and

f on we were handed rom the e to the other . We were then ’ o our a a on bliged to lie upon oars , till the c pt in s boat went f of board, and returned rom the ship with a packet letters, af i n a We were terwards rowed a long league rough sea,

and f a against wind tide , be ore we re ched the harbour, where

we landed, benumbed with cold , and the women excessively

sick : from our landing- place we were obliged to walk very

near a mile to the inn where we purposed to lodge , attend

or - ed by six seven men and women , bare legged , carrying

our a a . a b gg ge This boat cost me a guine , besides paying e xorbitantly the people who carried our things ; so that the inhabitants of Dover and of Boulogne seem to be of the same one f kidney , and indeed they understand another per ectly

o r well . It was u honest captai n who made the sign al for

the shore - boat before I went upon deck ; by which means not r his f of B o he only g atified riends, the watermen oul gne, TRAVELS THR OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 2 55

f h e but also saved about fi teen shillings portage , which must have p aid had he gone into the harbour : and th us he f f h ound himsel at liberty to return to Dover , whic he reach f ed in our hours . I mention these circumstances as a warn

- ing to other passengers . When a man hires a packet boat f or be rom Dover to Calais Boulogne , let him remem r that the stated price is five guinea s ; an d let h im insist upon be in h ing carried into the harbour the ship , wit out paying a of the least reg rd to the representations the master, who is tells ou generally a little dirty knave . When he y it is low or ou l water, the wind is in your teeth , y may say you wil

ou- ll h or stay board ti it is hig water, till the wind comes

f . If ou avourable he sees y are resolute , he will find means ‘ or to bring his ship into the harbour , at least to convince ou u of y , witho t a possibility your being deceived, that it f f f a in . is not his power A ter all , the ellow himsel was loser if a by his finesse ; he had gone into the h rbour , he would f for have had another are immediately back to Dover, there was a Scotch gentleman at the inn waiting for such an op or tuni p ty . own for Knowing my weak constitution , I took it granted ’ this morning s adventure would cost me a fit of illness ; and to what added my chagrin , when we arrived at the inn , all the beds were occupied ; so that we were obliged to sit in a two me of cold kitchen above hours , until so the lodgers of should get up . This was such a bad specimen French f accommodation , that my wi e could not help regretting even of Sittin bourn the inns Rochester, g , and Canterbury ; bad as they are , they certainly have the advantage , when com

of one pared with the execrable auberges this country , where

finds nothing but dirt and imposition . One would imagine

for the French were still at war with the English , they pil lage them without mercy .

Among the strangers at this inn where we lodged , there was a gentleman of the fa culty just returned from Italy . Understanding that I intended to winter in the south of on of be t e France, account a pulmonic disorder, strongly of i in commended the climate Nice, n Provence, which R S RO H R E ~ 256 T AVEL TH UG F ANC AND ITALY .

deed I had often heard extolled ; and I am almos t resolved

o for of air for to g thither, not only the sake the , but also on its situation the Mediterranean , when I can have the benefit of bathing ; and from whence there is a short cut by

s ea of to Italy, should I find it necessary to try the air

Naples . After having been ill accommodated three days at our

n f in , we have at last ound commodious lodgings, by means a t o of Mrs B a very agreeable French l dy, whom we

were recommended by her husband, who is my countryman ,

and at present resident in London . For three guineas a month of f w e have the greatest part a house, tolerably urnished ;

- on w four bed chambers the first floor, a large parlour belo ,

of . a kitchen , and the use a cellar

own f . These, I , are rivolous incidents, scarce worth com mitting to paper ; but they may serve to introduce observa tions of more consequence ; and in the meantime I know ff ou e — nothing will be indi erent to y , that conc rns your

humble servant .

LETTER I I .

DE AR SIR oulo ne s ur mer Jul 1 5 1 7 6 3 . , B g , y ,

T u e f HE c stomhous o ficers at Boulogne, though as alert , are rather more civil th an those on your side of the water . I z and f of brought no plate along with me, but a do en a hal

- : f f in spoons , and a dozen tea spoons the irst being ound one of our portmanteaus , when they were examined at th e bureau entr ee : d , cost me seventeen livres the others being ’

f . luckily in my servant s pocket , escaped duty ree All wrought silver imported into France pays at the rate of so much per mark : therefore those who have any quantity of l can plate will do wel to leave it behind them , unless they confide in the dexterity of the shipmasters ; some of whom will undertake to l and it without the ceremony of examina

of unf tion . The ordonnances France are so avourable to of s trangers, that they oblige them to pay at the rate five

for p er cent . all the bed and table linen which they bring i . nto the kingdom , even though it has been used When

T S RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

of - on Mediter Languedoc to Cete, which is a sea port the r anean a or f , bout three our leagues from Montpelier . r of c For the ecovery my books , I had recourse to the advi e of B my landlord, Monsieur He is a handsome young f - fi ve of ellow , about twenty years age , and keeps house with

f . two maiden sisters , who are pro essed devotees The bro

- ther is a little libertine, good natured , and obliging , but a true Frenchman in vanity , which is undoubtedly the ruling

of a has passion this vol tile people . He an inconsiderable

in s of place under the government , con equence which he is

a w permitted to wear s ord , a privilege which he does not

f . of of ail to use He is likewise receiver the tithes the clergy, in ffi him of this district, an o ce that gives a command money, and he moreover deals in the wine trade . When I came to of ll his house, he made a parade a these advantages ; he dis

of old played his bags money , and some gold which his f f ather had le t him . He described his chateau in the country, dropped hints of the fortunes that were settled upon made mois elles of his sisters , boasted his connections at court , and not for assured me it was my money that he let his lodgings, but altog e th er with a view to enjoy the pleasure of my com ‘ of pany . The truth , when stripped all embellishments, is this : the Sieur B is the son of an honest bourgeois lately f in dead, who le t him the house, with some stock trade, a f e little money , and a paltry arm his sisters have about thre ’ thousand livres (not quite £ 1 40) a piece ; the brother s pl aces are worth about fifty pounds a year ; and his con nections c mmie or at court are confined to a o , clerk in the se ’ cre tar s f of y o fice , with whom he corresponds , by virtue his f employment . My landlord piques himsel upon his gallant r lle de o e y and success with the fair sex : he keeps afi jy , and a C m kes no secret of his amours . He told Miss the other da in u of y, broken English , that , in the co rse last year, he

i a he S x a . t had made b stards He owned , the same time, had now f sent them all to the hospital ; but , his ather i s

a f a a of f . de d , he would himsel t ke c re his uture productions

a a . This , however , was no better than a g scon de Yesterday, i of new f l the house was n a hot alarm , on account a wind a l TRAVEL S THR O UGH FRANCE AND I TALY . 2 59 of this kind ; the sisters were in tears ; the brother was v isit ed by the cur é of the parish ; the lady in the straw (a semp.

r him l in a t st ess) sent the bant ing a b sket , and he transmi ted it by the carriers to the E fyims tr ou vés at Paris . But to return from this digression : Mr B advised me

‘ to r e uéte or of a send a g , petition , to the chancellor Fr nce, that I might obtain an order to have my books ex amined on

S of or r u r eur du the pot, by the president Boulogne , the p oc

- ma or of . y , the sub delegate the intendance He recommend an a voca t of w me ed his acquaintance, to dra up the moi r e him i l i at the , and introduced accord ngly ; te l ng m e s if h e ame time, in private , that he was not a drunkard ,

of f all would be at the head his pro ession . He had , indeed , th e of sot f outward signs a ; a sleepy eye, a rubicund ace, o and carbuncled nose . He seemed to be out at elb ws , had f marvellous oul linen , and his breeches were not very sound ; of but he assumed an air importance, was very courteous,

. if not s and very solemn I asked him , he did sometime f ? divert himsel with the muse He smiled , and promised,

in Cha n - s na ta? de s a o n . a whisper, to shew me some o f go r e uéte h Meanwhile he composed the g in my name , whic h and . was very pompous , very tedious , very abject Suc of a style might, perhaps, be necessary in a native France ; but I did not think it was at all suitable to a subject of Great

. for he Britain I thanked him the trouble he had taken , as would receive no other gratification ; but when my landlord

s n memoir e o propo ed to se d the to his corresp ndent at Paris , i l him to be del vered to the chancel or, I told I had changed my mind , and would apply to the English ambassador . I have accordingly taken the liberty to address myself to the of the to earl H and , at same time, I have presumed w of e n rite to the duchess D who is now at Paris , to ’

treat her grace s advice and . interposition . What effect B these applications may have, I know not ; but the Sieur

shakes his head , and has told my servant , in confidence , if that I am mistaken , I think the Engli sh ambassador is as

of great a man at Paris as the chancellor France . I ought to make an apology for troubling you with such 9 0 S 6 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE A N D I TALY .

an a of unentertaining detail , and consider th t the detention my books must be a matter of very little consequence to any ff body, but to your a ectionate humble servant .

LETTER I II .

oulo ne A u us t 1 5 1 7 6 3. B g , g , I AM much obliged to you for your kind inquiries after my a he lth , which has been lately in a very declining condition .

of a few a af a In consequence a cold , c ught a d ys ter my rrival h in France, I was seized with a violent cough , attended wit f a nd a ever, stitches in my breast , which tormented me all

a a night long without ceasing . At the s me time I had a gre t of discharge by expectoration , and such a dejection spirits f h f . as I never elt be ore In this situation , I took a step whic may appear to have been desperate . I knew there was no imposthume in my lungs , and I supposed the stitches were spasmodical . I was sensible that all my complaints were a f f origin lly derived rom relaxation . I there ore hired a chaise, and f going to the beach , about a league rom the town , plung ed into the sea without hesitation . By this desperate remedy, I got a fresh cold in my head ; but my stitches and fever vanished the very first day ; and by a daily repetitionof the bath , I have diminished my cough , strengthened my body , and recovered my spirits . I believe I should have tried the

if a same experiment, even there had been an bscess in my lungs , though such practice would have been contrary to all the rules of medicine : but I am not one of those who im licitl one of p y believe in all the dogmata of physic . I saw f the guides at Bath , the stoutest ellow amongst them , who

f a of a in recovered rom the l st stage consumption , by going ’ a of to the king s b th , contrary to the express injunction his

d . a if octor He s id , he must die , the sooner the better , as

f f r a of he had nothing le t o his subsistence . Inste d imme

a f a a diate de th , he ound inst nt e se, and continued mending

- da a re a . every y, till his he lth was entirely est blished I my

f a a a nd a sel drank the w ters at B th , bathed , in diametric l of opposition to the opinion some physicians there settled , and f f ound mysel better every day , notwithstanding their

S 2 62 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND I TAL Y .

a th ity which is peculiar to his char cter , has done me e a ow n honour to ssure me, under his hand, that he has di

r eote d N—lle our for an Mr , resident at Paris , to apply

order that my books may be restored . of f I have met with another piece good ortune, in being i ntroduced to General Paterson and his lady , in their way to f England rom Nice , where the general has been many years Y ou commandant for the king of Sardinia . must have of n ot heard this gentleman , who has only eminently dis tin sh d f Ofli cer gui e himsel by his courage and conduct as an , but a lso by his probity and humanity in the exercise of his f O fice, and by his remarkable hospitality to all strangers , of especially the subjects Great Britain , whose occasions

called them to the place where he commanded . Being far pretty advanced in years, he begged leave to resign , that he might spend the evening of his days in his o wn country ;

and his Sardinian m ajesty granted his request with regret, after having honoured him with very particular marks of s o f u approbation and esteem . The general talks avo rably of of of the climate Nice, with respect to disorders the breast,

that I am now determined to go thither . It would have

n for i n . bee happy m e, had he continued his government f f i n of him I think mysel still very ortunate, having obtained of h a letter recommendation to the Englis consul at Nice, together with directions how to travel through the south of

France . I propose to begin my journey some time next

month , when the weather will be temperate to the south ward ; and in the wine countries I shall have the pleasure

of n of f seei g the vintage , which is always a season estivity all of among ranks people . Y ou have been very much misinformed by the person who compared Boulogne to Wapping : he did a manifest in

a n h justice to this place , which is large agreeable tow , wit

broad open streets , excellently paved ; and the houses are f o . of i n stone, well built and commodious The number w habitants may amount to sixteen thousand . You kno this was generally supposed to be the P or tus Itins and Ges ’ s or zacum of the ancients ; though it is now believed that the S T O T RAVEL HR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 2 63

r tus I tius f e ae P o , rom whenc C sar sailed to Britain , is a

' W/zztm n d f place called , about hal way between this place

. of B oulonnois and Calais Boulogne is the capital the , a district extending about twelve leagues, ruled by a governor of of of independent the governor Picardy ; which province, f a however, this country orms part . The present governor ’ A mon t of is the due d u . The town Boulogne is the see of ff of a bishop , su ragan Rheims, whose revenue amounts to

f - - or one about our and twenty thousand livres , thousand ’ of pounds sterling . It is also the seat a seneschal s court , fr om whence an appeal lies to the parliament of Paris ; and all thither condemned criminals are sent , to have their sen

or . tence confirmed reversed Here is likewise a bailiwick , f urISdi ti and a court o admiralty . The military j c on of the city be long s to a commandant appointed by the king , a sort ld ff of sinecure bestowed upon some o o icer. His appoint ments are very inconsiderable : he resides in the Upper r n of few town , and his gar iso at present consists a hun dreds of invalids . w “ Boulogne is divided into the Upper and Lower to ns . The of f former is a kind citadel , about a short mile in circum er

, on , f ence situated a rising ground surrounded by a high i of f wall and rampart, planted with rows trees, which orm a f f delight ul walk . It commands a fine view o the country

of and Lower town ; and in clear weather, the coast Eng f land, rom Dover to Folkstone , appears so plain , that one would imagine it was within four or five leagues of the French n f f shore . The Upper tow was ormerly ortified with out

in . works, which are now ruins Here is a square, a

w - to n house, the cathedral , and two or three convents of one of nuns ; in which there are several English girls , sent hither for their education . The smallness of the expense e ncourages parents to send their children abroad to these se minaries f , where they learn scarce any thing that is use ul , but the French language ; but they never fail to imbibe l re prejudices against the protestant religion , and genera ly turn enthusiastic converts to the religion of Rome . This c w for and f an onversion al ays generates a contempt , o ten $264: T S RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

own aversion to, their country . Indeed it cannot reasonably of a be expected , that people weak minds , ddicted to super s tition or m , should either love estee those whom they are

a - t ught to consider as reprobate heretics . Ten pounds a year is the usual pe nsion in these convents ; but I h ave been i n f a of ormed by French lady , who had her education in one

them , that nothing can be more wretched than their i m ta n ent .

The civil magistracy of Boulogne consists of a mayor an d e ch evins ; and this is the case i n almost all the towns of

France . The Lower town is continued from the gate of the Upper n of far town , dow the slope a hill , as as the harbour , stretch on a u con ing both sides to large extent, and is m ch more s iderable w f the than the Upper, ith respect to the beauty o of streets , the convenience the houses , and the number and

of . wealth the inhabitants These , however, are all mer

or for the or . chants , bourgeois ; noblesse gentry live alto

in . gether the Upper town , and never mix with the others of of The harbour Boulogne is at the mouth the river,

or e w rather rivul t Liane , hich is so shallow , that the child

w d . r en a e through it at low water As the tide makes , the f sea flows in , and orms a pretty extensive harbour, which ,

n . however, admits othing but small vessels It is con two ettes or m tracted at the mouth by stonej piers , which see

c ace to have been constru ted by some engineer , very little q uainted with this branch of his profession ; for they are r out to of ca ried in such a manner , as collect a bank sand of a just at the entrance the h rbour . The road is very open f f and unsa e , and the sur very high when the wind blows

f . f rom the sea There is no ortification near the harbour,

f a t except a paltry ort mounting bout twenty guns , buil

in a the l st war by the prince de Cruy , upon a rock about a

league to the eastward of Boulogne . It appears to be situ

a ff of~ ated in such a manner, th t it can neither o end nor be

f of a a f or f fended . I the depth water would dmit orty fi ty

to n - of gun ship lie withi cannon shot it, I apprehend it Si n lf n might be le ced in ha a hour ; but, in all probability,

T S O H A N D 9266 RAVEL THR UG FRANCE ITALY .

l in f o . minute, you wil be danger perishing The apart

of ments this house are elegantly fitted up , but very small f and the garden , notwithstanding its un avourable situation , '

ff of f . a ords a great quantity good ruit The Ooze, impreg

ated on S of n with sea salt, produces , this ide the harbour,

’ f a m hz an incredible quantity o the finest s p r e I ever saw . The

French call it p a s s e- p ier ) ? and I suspect its English nam e

f a n - i r f on the is a corruption o s g p e r e . It is generally ound f f of aces o bare rocks that overhang the sea , by the spray k d k u . w a n a e roc which it is no rished As it gre upon , with t of ou any appearance soil , it might be naturally enough

s an du i er r e or s an - ier r e of called g p , g p , blood the rock ; ' f and hence the n ame s a mphzr e . On the same side o the har bour, there is another, new house , neatly built, belonging to a gentlem an who has obtained a grant from the king of some ground which was al ways ov erflowed at high water . He

as to th e h raised dikes at a considerable expense , exclude d if hear tide ; an he can bring his project to , he will not only for f a b gain a good estate himsel , but lso improve the har our, by increasing the depth at high water. of reli i In the Lower town Boulogne, there are several g

us a of o houses , particul rly a seminary , a convent cordeliers,

of a f and another c puchins . This last having allen to decay , of was some years ago repaired , chiefly by the charity Bri t b a a of h ish travellers , collected y F ther Gr eme, a native Nort ffi of Britain , who had been an o cer in the army King James

. of I I , and is said to have turned monk this mendicant order, of a for f by way voluntary pen nce , having killed his riend

- in a duel . Be that as it may , he was a well bred , sensible man of f nd , a very exemplary li e and conversation ; a his memory is much revered in this place . Being superior of the

ut in convent, he caused the British arms to be p up the church , as a mark of gratitude for the benefactions received from our

n . f of l of ation I o ten walk in the garden the convent , the wa ls a t of which are washed by the sea high water . At the bottom f h the garden , is a little private grove , separated rom it by a hig w d of a all, with a oor communication ; and hither the c pu

c r n for n . hins etire, whe they are disposed contemplatio T RAVELS THR OUGH F RANCE A N D ITALY . 2 67

a o e to to About two years g , this plac was said be converted ff n r a very di erent use . There was among the monks o e pe e Cha r les f of , a lusty riar, whom the people tell strange sto

of th e n ries . Some young women town were see mounting of of over the wall , by a ladder ropes , in the dusk the even f ing ; and there was an unusual crop o bastards that season . In ere Char les short, p and his companions gave such scan dal t e f , hat the whol raternity was changed ; and now the n of of est is occupied by another flight these birds passage . If one of our privateers h ad kidnapped a capuchin during S the war and exhibited him , in his habit, as a how in Lon d on e for , he would hav proved a good prize to the captors ; w not I kno a more uncouth and grotesque animal, than an ol fr of d capuchin in the habi t of his order. A iend mine ' ffi u (a Swiss o cer) told me, that a peasant in his co ntry used n to weep bitterly , when ever a certai capuchin mounted the to f f pulpit hold orth to the people . The good ather took n of i fi n otice this man , and bel eved he was touched by the g Of ac er the Lord . H e exhorted him to encourage these of to of com cessions grace, and at the same time be good

f of f . ort, as having received such marks the Divine avour ll f The man sti continued to weep , as be ore, every time the monk preached and at last the capuchin insisted upon know in or e ing what it was , his discourse appearanc , that made

an n . f such impression upo his heart Ah , ather cried the of peasant, I never see you but I think a venerable goat

' which I lost at easter . We were bred up together in the of same family . He was the very picture your reverence a udoui n ! one would swear ou were brothers . Poor B he — y died of a fall rest his soul ! I would willingly pay for a f ’ couple of masses to pray him out o purgatory . a n Among other public edifices at Boulogne, there is or hospital, workhouse, which seems to be established upon of a very good foundation . It maintains several hundreds

a poor people, who are kept const ntly at work, according to of their age and abilities , in making thread , all sorts lace, a k r of c in . ind atgut, and knitting stockings It is unde the direction of the bishop ; and the see is at present filled S 2 68 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

of by a prelate great piety and benevolence, though a little f inclined to bigotry and anaticism . The churches in this ff town are but indi erently built, and poorly ornamented . There is not one picture in the place worth looking at nor for indeed, does there seem to be the least taste the liberal

arts . a l f ou In my next, I sh l endeavour to satis y y in the other

w a . articles you desire to kno . Me nwhile, I am ever yours

V LE TTER I .

B oulo ne Se t mb r 1 g , p e e , 1 763.

f f I AM infinite ly obliged to D . H or the avourable manner in which he h as mentioned me to the earl of H

of I have at last recovered my books , by virtue a particular

of a order to the director the douane , procured by the pplica

tion of the English resident to the French ministry . I am now preparing for my long journey ; but before I leave this i a Mer ton . place , I sh ll send you the packet I mentioned, by

a f Me nwhile , I must ulfil my promise in communicating the observations I have had occasion to make upon this town

an d country . of of The air Boulogne is cold and moist , and , I believe,

u . f consequence nhealthy Last winter the rost, which con six tinned weeks in London , lasted here eight weeks, with out in intermission ; and the cold was so intense, that , the of of garden the capuchins , it split the bark several elms

ur from top to bottom . On o arrival here we found all kinds

of f in . f ruit more backward than England The rost , in its h a in . progress to Brit in , is muc weakened crossing the sea

a The atmosphere, impregnated with s line particles , resists

of f . in the operation reezing Hence severe winters , all

places near the sea- Side are less cold than more inland dis

tricts . This is the reason why the winter is often more mild

n at of at Edinburgh tha London . A very great degree cold f is required to freez e salt w a ter . Indeed it will not reeze at ll w a . no a all , until it has deposited its salt It is gener lly

allowed among philosophers , that water is no more than ice d or thawe by heat, either solar, or subterranean , both ;

2 0 S T N E A ND 7 TRAVEL HROUGH FRA C ITALY . but I know that the place where I was bred stands upon a

of a zonic co l ; that the water which the inhabitants general . ly use is h ard and brackish ; and that the people are remar k ’ ably subject to the king s evil and consumption . These I

would impute to the bad water, impregnated with the vitriol

of a in and brine co l , as there is nothing the constitutio n of i the a r that should render such distempers endemial . That air of f a f m the Boulogne encourages putre action , ppears ro ’ the ff th e e ect it has upon butchers meat , which , though

s a a f - e son is remarkably cold , we can h rdly keep our and

‘ twenty h ours in the coldest part of the house . Living here is pretty reasonable ; and the markets are f tolerably supplied . The bee is neither fat nor firm ; but for very good soup, which is the only use the French make f d f . e E n o it The veal is not so white, nor so well , as the g

lish veal ; but it is more juicy , and better tasted . The mut

. our ton and pork are very good We buy poultry alive,

f e . and atten them at hom Here are excellent turkeys , and

of : no want game the hares , in particular , are very large,

- flavoured . of t juicy , and high The best part the fish caugh

on - this coast is sent post to Paris, in chaise marines , by a of of company contractors , like those Hastings in Sussex . Skaite Nevertheless , we have excellent soles, , flounders, and

makarel. whitings , and sometimes The oysters are very

l . arge, coarse, and rank There is very little fish caught 0 11 r the French coast, because the shallows run a g eat way

f m fo ro the shore , and the fish live chiefly in deep water ; r out this reason the fishermen go a great way to sea, some f wi times even as ar as the coast of England . Not thstand in can in g all the haste the contractors make, their fish the summer is very Often spoiled before it arrives at Paris and

of this is not to be wondered at, considering the length the

one f . way , which is near hundred and fi ty miles At best , n o it must be in such a mortified condition , that other peo on of u f ple, except the negroes the coast Guinea , wo ld eed

upon it . The wine commonly drank at Boulogne comes from Aux f erre, is very small and meagre, and may be had rom five T E S T T RAV L HROUGH FRANCE AND I ALY . 2 71

f m two f to eight sols a bottle ; that is , ro pence hal penny to four pence . The French inhabitants drink no good wine ou nor is there any to be had, unless y have recours e to th e

- British wine merchants here established, who deal in Bour for deaux wines , brought hither by sea the London market . f m f e I have very good claret ro a ri nd , at the rate of fifteen pence sterling a bottle ; and excellent small beer as reason " able as in England . I don t believe there is a drop of gene rous Burgundy in the place ; and the A ubergistes impose f two upon us shame ully, when they charge it at livres a

. r eniac bottle There is a small white wine called p , which ll e . A is very agreeable, and v ry cheap the brandy which

B ne w - I have seen in oulogne is , fiery, and still burnt . This is the trash which the smugglers import into England : f ’ they have it or about ten pence a gallon . Butchers meat

for or lf a nd is sold five sols , two pence ha penny a pound , f the pound here consists o eighteen ounces . I have a young turkey for thirty sols a h are for four - and - twenty ; a couple for of for of chickens twenty sols , and a couple good soles

f f a . E the same price Be ore we le t ngl nd , we were told that there was no fruit in Boulogne : but we have found our

‘ in t i arfi eular selves agreeably disappointed h s p . The place

' is well supplied with strawberries , cherries , gooseberries, corinths , peaches , apricots , and excellent pears . I have eaten more fruit this season than I have don e for several

- a years . There are many well cultiv ted gardens in the skirts of the tow n ; particularly on e belongin g to our friend Mrs

B where we often drink tea in a charming summer- house

n f l i ilt o a rising ground , which commands a delight u prospect of the sea . We have many obligations to this f good lady , who is a kind neighbour, and obliging riend , and a most agreeable companion : she speaks English pret til of y, and is greatly attached to the people and the customs for f our nation . They use wood their common uel , though , if to a I were live at Boulogne , I would mix it with co l , which this country affords both the wood and the coal are m a reasonable enough . I am certain that a man y keep house in Boulogne for about one half of what it will cost R S N $272 T AV EL THROUGH FRA CE AND I TALY . him in London : and this is said to be one of the dearest: places in France . The adjacent country is very agreeably diversified with d a an . hill and d le , corn fields , woods , meadows There is f of a a a a orest consider ble extent , th t begins about a short

a f : le gue rom the Upper town it belongs to the king, and the wood is farmed to different individuals .

of a in In point griculture , the people this neighbourhood seem to h ave profited by the example of the English . Since

i n f a o of I was last France , fi teen years g , a good number inclosures and plantations have been m ad e in the English

a fashion . There is a good many toler ble country houses

few of . within a miles Boulogne , but mostly empty I was

' ofi er ed h of f l a complete house , wit a garden our acr es , wel

a out for a f m l id , and two fields g rass or hay , about mile ro

for f the town , our hundred livres , about seventeen pounds

- f a . a a ye r It is p rtly urnished , stands in an agreeable situa

a of Sea and tion , with fine prospect the , was lately occupied

a of . by Scotch nobleman , who is in the service France f a of To judge rom appe rance, the people Boulogne are

fr f descended om the Flemings , who ormerly possessed this country ; for a great many of the present inh abitants have

fa ff fine skins, ir hair, and florid complexions ; very di erent f of a rom the natives Fr nce in general , who are distinguished

a f . by black hair, brown skins, and sw rthy aces The peo of B oulonn ois a a ple the enjoy some extr ordin ry privileges , a f or and, in particul r , are exempted rom the gabelle duties

: how a of f upon salt they deserve this m rk avour , I do not know ; but they seem to have a state of independen ce among

' f u . them , are very erocio s , and much addicted to revenge Many barbarous murders are committed both in the town f of and country ; and the peasants , rom motives envy and ’

f on . resentment , requently set their neighbour s houses fire Several instances of this kind have h appened in the course of the a last ye r . The interruption which is given; in ar bitrar a n of y governments , to the administr tio justice , by of a wa ff the interposition the gre t , has al ys a bad e ect upon f oo the morals o the common people . The peasants t are

927 4s T RAVEL S THROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY .

of f e linen , are reckoned part this ortune . The noblesse hav not the common sense to reside at their houses in the coun

f own e try , where , by arming their grounds , they might liv

e and e at a small xpense, improve their estates at the sam

- a time . They allow their country houses to go to dec y , and their gardens and fields to waste ; and reside in d ark holes

of or in the Upper town Boulogne , without light , air, con

v enience . ma There they starve within doors , that they y l have wherewithal to purchase fine c othes , and appear dress

- a da or on . ed once y in the church , the rampart They

a for a f have no educ tion , no taste re ding, no housewi ery,

an a a of nor indeed y e rthly occup tion , but that dressing their a hair, and dorning their bodies . They hate walking, and

ad if the would never go abro , they were not stimulated by f wh o vanity o being seen . I ought to except indeed those S r of h turn devotees , and pend the g eatest part their time wit

or own . the priest , either at church , in their houses Other e amusements they have none in this place, except privat

- of a far fr e e. parties card pl ying, which are om b ing expensiv Nothing can be more parsimonious than the economy of : u these people they live pon soup and bouille, fish and

: of sallad they never think giving dinners , or entertaining f of ff their riends ; they even save the expense co ee and tea,

though both are very cheap at Boulogne . They presume

a ff a f th t every person drinks co ee at home, immedi tely a ter ’ h h a a one : dinner, w ic is lw ys over by o clock and , in lieu of f e a of or tea in the a ternoon , th y treat with a gl ss sherbet ,

c . In w a s et apillaire a word , I kno not a more insignific nt of m ortals than the noblesse of Boulogne ; helpless in them

selves , and useless to the community ; without dignity, or fr ridicu sense, sentiment ; contemptible om pride, and f of lous rom vanity . They pretend to be jealous their rank, and h will entertain no correspondence wit the merchants, w t hom they term plebeians . They likewise keep at a grea

f on of the distance rom strangers , pretence a delicacy in of : f s article punctilio but , as I am in ormed , this statelines

aff o is in a great measure ected , in order to conceal their p h i n if verty, whic would appear to greater d sadva tage, they S O 92 TRAVEL THR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 75

f fa admitted o a more miliar communication . Considering of a the vivacity the French people, one would im gine they c not s f nu ould possibly lead uch an insipid li e , altogether

a d or . nimate by society diversion True it is, the only

f of e - w a pro ane diversions this place are a pupp t sho and . mountebank ; but then their religion affords a perpetual

c . m f a omedy Their high asses , their e sts , their processions, t a f a a i n heir pilgrim ges , con essions , im ges, t pers , robes , c s e innumer ense, benedictions , p ctacles , representations , an d

a a f h able ceremonies , which revolve lmost incess ntly , urnis a variety of entertainment from one end of the year to the

. If ea r other superstition implies f , never was a word more misapplied th an it is to the mummery of the religion of R om f f h e . The people are s o ar rom being impressed wit of a it awe and religious terror by this sort machinery, th t

a a amuses their imaginations in the most gree ble manner, catho and keeps them always in good humour . A Roman t t for f a of S . or S lic longs as impatiently the estiv l Suaire , . ‘ or - a for Croix , S . Veronique , as a school boy in Engl nd the represent ation of punch and the devil ; and there is general l y as much laughing at one farce as at the other . Even f when the descent rom the cross is acted , in the holy week, with all the circumstances that ought naturally to inspire if ou the gravest sentiments, y cast your eyes among the mul titude a ou one that crowd the pl ce, y will not discover m e lanchol f : n or and y ace all is prattling, titteri g, laughing ; ten to one but you perceive a number of them employed in f hissing the em ale who persona tes the Virgin Mary. And

a cath o here it may not be miss to observe , that the Roman lics of , not content with the infinite number saints who real l a the cr ss y existed , have not only person ted o , but made f Ve r on i ue or Ve two emale saints out of a piece of linen . q r nica s of wer e ic n or ver a o , i no other than a corruption o , ’ ies s a of efig , aid to be the exact represent tion our Saviour s f of be w ace impressed upon a piece linen , with which iped the sweat from his forehead in his w ay to the place of crucifixion . i r e f m f t. S ua The same is worshipped under the name o S , ro the ud r i am a f Latin word s a um. This s e h ndkerchie is said £ 6 T S T 7 RAVEL HROUGH FRAN CE AND ITALY .

a r f on one of inn to h ve had th ee olds , every which was the : one of a a w as pression these rem ins at Jerus lem , a second Ba brought to Rome , and a third was conveyed to Spain .

r onius a of a n cta s ys , there is a very ancient history the s

a ci es a . Tillemon t w the J in the V tican , ho ever, looks upon w hole a s a fable . Some suppose Ver onica to be the same t f S . H aem orrhoiss a a of a with , the p troness those who are

flicted a to with the piles , who m ke their joint invocations ‘ S . iacre of a i her and F , the son Scotch king , who l ved and f died a hermit in France . The troops of Henry V . o Eng land are said to have pillaged the chapel Of this Highland a u s int ; who , in revenge, assisted his co ntrymen , in the

v f a a and af French ser ice, to de e t the English at B gue, ter

ffli c ed a t of he . wards Henry with the piles , which died

a a n ot This prince compl ined , th t he was only plagued by e who e the living Scots , but even p rsecuted by those wer

dead . I know not whether I may be allowed to compare the

a . Romish religion to comedy , and c lvinism to tragedy

and a of m The first amuses the senses , excites ide s irth and

- m a a good hu our ; the other , like tragedy , de ls in the p ssions of of terror and pity . Step into a conventicle dissenters ,

ou one f n y will , ten to , hear the minister holding orth upo ff of h or of the su erings C rist , the torments hell , and see

m any marks of religious horror in the faces of the hearers . This is perh aps one reason why th e reformation did not suc

eed e a ~ c in Franc , among a vol tile , giddy , unthinking peo

a a of ple , shocked at the mortified ppe rances the calvinists ; a nd accounts for its rapid' progress amon g nations of a more

of : for the melancholy turn character and complexion , in

of ul a a out of conversion the m titude , re son is gener lly the u a question . Even the penance imposed pon the c tholics is little more than mock mor tification : a murderer is often quit with his confessor for saying three prayers e xtraordi

a on a nary ; and these e sy terms which bsolution is obtained, certainly encourage the repetition of the most enormous

and of crimes . The pomp ceremonies this religion , together of with the great number holidays they observe, howsoever

2 8 S T 7 TRAVEL HROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

r i te ta ned . Though restricted from flesh meals by the rules of a to e their order , they are llowed eat wild duck and t al , a s Of for o boulli a species fish ; and when they long a go d on ,

or or a a partridg e , pullet , they h ve nothing to do but to s a o t f y they are u o order . In that case the appetite of the l i patient is indu ged n his own apartment . Their church is

. The elegantly contrived , but kept in a very dirty condition a bo greatest curiosity I saw in this pl ce, was an English y, a or a old fr o f bout eight nine ye rs , om Dover, wh m his ather

had sent hither to learn the French langu age . In less than

of of eight weeks he was become captain the boys the place,

f had f his mo spoke French per ectly well , and almost orgot of ther tongue . But to return to the people Boulogne .

a of The burghers here, as in other pl ces , consist mer of chants , shopkeepers , and artisans . Some the merchants

f n out a . have got ortunes , by fitti g priv teers during the war f not A great many single ships were taken rom the English , out of our SO withstanding the good look cruisers , who were t f this ft in aler , that the privateers rom coast were o en taken four hours after they sailed from the French harbour ; and a of a r ma teur n there is hardly a c ptain an in Boulog e , who has not been prisoner in England five or six times in the out course of the war . They were fitted at very small ex n of pense , and used to run over in the ight to the coast n E gland , where they hovered as English fishing smacks , w h until they kidnapped some coaster, ith which t ey made I f the best of their way across the ch annel . f they ell in with

: a British cruiser , they surrendered without resistance the n Of captain was soon excha ged , and the loss the proprietor was not great : if they brought their prize safe into harbour

of . the advantage was considerable . In time peace the m e r

of i n a oil im chants Boulogne deal wine , br ndies , and , f and manufac ported rom the south , export fish , with the

of a tures France, to Portug l , and other countries ; but the or trade is not great . Here are two three considerable houses f f w ho d o wine merchants rom Britain , eal in Bourdeaux w u l Of wine , with hich they s pp y London , and other parts

and . of mackarel E ngland, Scotland, Ireland The fishery T RAVELS THR OUGH FR ANCE AND ITALY . 2 79

ri so on to and her ng is considerable this coas t , that it is said l or r b yield annua ly eight nine hundred thousand liv es, a out

- v l thirty fi e thousand poun ds ster ing . The shopkeepers here drive a considerable traffic wi th the E a nglish sm ugglers , whose cutters are lmost the only vessels one e of u if se s in the harbour Bo logne, we except about a dozen of those flat- bottomed boats which raised such alarms of e in England in the course the war. Ind ed they seem to o for a fo be g od nothing else , and perh ps they were built r m f m f this purpos e only . The s ugglers ro the coast o Kent and Susse x pay E nglish gold for great quantities of French ff m i h f m brandy , tea , co ee, and s all wine, wh c they run ro k t r . and his count y They likewise buy glass trin ets , toys , c in for n oloured prints , which sell England no other reaso but f m had that they come ro France , as they may be as

of our own fa cheap and much better finished manu cture . l off They ikewise take ribbons , laces , linen , and cambrics ; though this branch of trade is chiefly in the h ands of traders

f m a that come ro London , and m ke their purchases at Dun It h kirk , where they pay no duties . is certainly worth w ile for any traveller to lay in a stock of linen either at D unkirk or Boulogn e ; the difference of the price at these two places of is not great . Even here I have made a provision shirts for one half of the money they would have cost in London . Undoubtedly the practice of smuggling is very detrimental to f l of the air trader, and carries considerab e sums money out of our and . The the kingdom , to enrich rivals enemies c f f a t ustomhouse O ficers are very watch ul , and m ke a grea nu of u mber seizures nevertheless , the sm gglers find their account in continuing this contraband commerce ; and are s f if on e out of aid to indemni y themselves , they save cargo f s to three . A ter all , the best way to prevent muggling is lower the duties upon the commodities which are thus intro i duced . a I have been told , that the revenue upon tea has the creased ever since the duty upon it was diminished . By on o of by , the tea smuggled the c ast Sussex is most exe f r e c c uff. o rable st While I staid at Hastings , the conv nien y of a f if not b thing, I must have changed my break ast, I had £80 S O FR N A TRAVEL THR UGH A CE N D ITALY .

luckily brought tea with me from London : yet we have as for good tea at Boulogne nine livres a pound, as that which s f ells at ourteen shillings at London . of m he ro The bourgeois this place see to live at t ir ease , p f bably in consequence o their trade with the English . Thei r

of - floor one a houses consist the ground , storey bove, and

. In l f garrets those which are wel urnished . you see pier glasses and marble slabs ; but the chairs are either paltry t hings , made with straw bottoms which cost about a shil

a - or f - Of ling piece , Old ashioned , high backed seats needle

w ff . ork stu ed, very clumsy and incommodious The tables

r e on i n a square fir boards , that stand edge a corner, except

when they are used , and then they are set upon cross legs

of that open and shut occasionally . The king France dines

f Of - off a board o this kind . Here is plenty table linen how n in on e ver . The poorest tradesma Boulogne has a napkin f f every cover, and silver orks with our prongs, which are for used with the right hand, there being very little occasion h knives ; for the meat is boiled or roasted to rags . The Frenc one beds are so high , that sometimes is obliged to mount them by the help of steps ; and this is also the case in Flan

v r f - u ders . They e y seldom use eather beds ; but they lie p on a a illa s se or ba of p , g straw, over which are laid two , and

s ometimes three matrasses . Their testers are high and old

f of z ashioned , and their curtains generally thin bai e , red or

of . green , laced with tawdry yellow , in imitation gold In

s one f of a ome houses , however , meets with urniture st mped

linen ; but there is no such thing as a carpet to be seen ,

and the floors are in a very dirty condition . They have not of even the implements cleanliness in this country . Every

f a r m ir e or - chamber is urnished with an o , clothes press , and of of a chest drawers , very clumsy workmanship . Every a thing shews deficiency in the mechanic arts . There is not

a door nor a window that shuts close . The hinges ; locks , lafches of and , are iron , coarsely made , and ill contrived .

The very chimneys are built so open , that they admit both f m a o . r in and sun , and all the smoke intolerably If there is n o l n l we nd clean i ess among these people, much less shal fi

282 S O R A D TRAVEL THR UGH F ANCE N ITALY.

: f snufil ragout between every three mouth uls , he produces his box f a f , and takes a resh pinch , with the most gr ce ul gesti cula tions a a f be ; then he displ ys his h ndkerchie , which may t e a o a bomina tio n of erm d the fl g f ; and , in the use both , scatters his favours among those who have the happiness to

a sit near him . It must be owned, however, th t a French

out of in a man will not drink a tankard , which , perh ps , a d of a S b e i n ozen filthy mouths h ve lab er d , as is the custom own England . Here every individual has his goblet , which

f and f s tands be ore him , he helps himsel occasionally with

or or a wine, water, both , which likewise st nd upon the a of table . But I know no custom m ore be stly than that

- a h using water gl sses , in whic polite company spirt , and

Of the squirt, and spue the filthy scourings their gums under of eyes of each other . I knew a lover cured his passion by se eing this nasty cascade discharged from the month Of his ’ e mistress . I don t doubt but I shall live to see the day , wh n th e hospitable custom Of the ancient Egyptians will be reviv ed ; then a conveniency will be placed behind every chair in

” of a a company , with a proper provision w ste p per, that indi

a v iduals may make themselves e sy without parting company .

I insist upon it , that this practice would no t be more inde

a . ou licate th n that which is now in use What then , y will s a u a s y, must a man sit with his chops and fingers p to the e r and knuckles in grea se ? no let those who cannot eat with

filin o out de g themselves , step into an ther room , provided with basons and towels : but I think it would be better to

a institute schools , where youth may learn to eat their victu ls, w or ff to of ithout daubing themselves , giving o ence the eyes on e another . The bourgeois of Boulog ne have commonly soup and

onille a for b at noon , and a roast , with a sall d , supper ; and d a of f . at all their me ls there is a desert ruit This , indee , is

all . a the practice over France On meagre d ys they eat fish , f f Of omelettes , ried beans , ricassees eggs and onions , and i f is burnt cream . The tea which they drink n the a ternoon rather boiled than infu sed ; it is sweetened altogether with c a d u of oi d o rse sugar, and rank with an equal q antity b le S T RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 2 83

We had the honour to be entertained the other day by our on landlord , Mr B who spared no cost this banquet , f e xhibited for the glory o France . He had invited a new m ’ arried couple, together with the husband s mother, and ’ the la fa one of of dy s ther, who was the noblesse Montreuil, L his name Mons . y . There were likewise some mer ” c of the . f hants town , and Mons B s uncle, a acetious little man h ad , who served in the English navy , and was as big and as round as a hogshead ; we were likewise favoured the Of f r K of wh with company athe a native Ireland , o i s vica r e or of w , curate the parish ; and among the guests as ’ L s s on bo or f Mons . y , a pretty y, about thirteen our

t e Of . r e as e n years age The p served up in three services, ' or en tr ees h ra d ce uvres of the courses , with and o , exclusive f u Of s r it , consisted above twenty dishes, extremely well dres ed r oitss eur w i by the , who is the best cook I ever kne n or s la te not e h France, el ewhere ; but the p were present d wit di d not be much order. Our young ladies seem to much used to do the honours of the table . The most extraordinary ll circumstance that I observed on this occasion was , that a the French who were present ate of every dish that appeared ; if s and , I am told , that there had been an hundred article m of . ore, they would have had a trial each This is what L — w they call doing justice to the founder . Monsieur y as placed at the head of the table ; and indeed he was the oracle and a of n - or tor the compa y ; tall , thin , and weather beaten , not unlike the picture of Don Quixote after he had lost his

- t . a r de da c r s or l fe at eeth He had been g o p , i guard man V of f f ersailles ; and , by virtue this o fice, he was per ectly well acquainted with the persons of the king and the dau h of phin , wit the characters the ministers and grandees , and , of on h in a word , with all the secrets state, whic he held forth with equal solemnity and elocution . He exclaimed a fa Of gainst the j esuits , and the rmers the revenue, who, he f s . aid , had ruined France Then addressing himsel to me, a if da h sked , the English did not every y drink to the healt of ma da me la ma r i 9 qu s e . I did not at first comprehend his m r th E not eaning ; but answe ed in general, that e nglish were 2 84: S O T R AVEL THR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

f e or . he d ficient in complaisance the ladies Ah cried ,

‘ f ha ot she is the best riend they h ave in the world . If it d n be en for her they would n ot have such re ason to boast of the f ’ t h a dvantages o the war. I old him the only conquest whic the French had made in the war was achieved by one of the

generals : I meant the taking of M ahon . But I did not

i a th e choose to prosecute the discourse, remember ng , th t in 1 4 an aff h year 7 9 , I had like to have had air with a Frenc man at f d a d Ghent , who a firme , that all the battles g ine by the great duke of Marlborough were purposely lost by the of d e French generals , in order to bring the schemes madame

for ~ Maintenon into disgrace . This is no bad resource the na tion al of h : th vanity t ese people ough , in general , they are really a d r persu de , that theirs is the richest , the b avest , the happiest,

f s u f and the most power ul nation under the n ; and , there ore,

a . the without some such c use , they must be invincible By

f a by , the common people here still righten their wayw rd " h Of Ma r lb r ou . children with the name o g Mr B s son , ’ who w as one nursed at a peasant s house, happening day

af u m fa ter he was bro ght h o e to be in disgrace with his ther,

ran for who threatened to correct him , the child protection to ‘ ’ ai tes s r ti r s e vila i n e Ma r lbr ou . his mother, crying , f o g I t a to a th is am zing hear sensible Frenchman assert, that e

of f of revenues France amount to our hundred millions livres, of about twenty millions sterling, clear all encumbrances, w f hen , in act, their clear revenue is not much above ten . all a W ithout doubt , they have re son to inveigh against the er mi er s ener a um f g , who oppress the people in raising taxes , ’ not above two th irds o f which are brought into the king s ff : r e co ers the est nriches themselves , and enables them to

e for of a onl brib high the protection the gre t, which is the y support they h ave against the remonstrances of the states a a n Of and p rli me ts , and the suggestions common sense ; l of h which wi l ever demonstrate this to be, all others , t e f most pernicious , method o supplying the necessities of go

vernmen t .

Monsieur L y seasoned the severity of his political a s of l pophthegms with intermediate allies mirth and ga lantry.

T RAVELS THROUGH FRANCE A ND ITALY ;

! w — blame but youth , you kno , Monsieur L y ah vive ’ ‘ ’ ’ euneuss e ! E t ! fa hi la j l amour cried the ther , wiping s a eyes, squeezing her h nd , and looking tenderly upon her . Mr B took this Opportunity to bring in the young gen

tleman fa and , who was admitted into vour , received a second

e . w as xhortation Thus harmony restored , and the enter tainment f ff a nd li ueur s . concluded with ruit , co ee , q W of a hen a bourgeois Boulogne takes the air , he goes in one - e ca br i let it hors chaise, which is here called o , and hires for a f- a - - a . l h l crown day There are also travel ing chaises, w f fa th hich hold our persons , two seated with their ces to e

t r horses , and two behind heir backs ; but those vehicles a e all ill of very made , and extremely inconvenient . The way

d - l ri ing most used in this place is on ass back . You wi l see e very day in the skirts of the town a great number of fe l f ou ma es thus mounted , with the eet either side occasional l y, according as the wind blows ; so that sometimes the right and sometimes the left hand guides the beast : but in o of on ther parts France as well as in Italy , the ladies sit h horseback with their legs astride, and are provided wit for a drawers th t purpose . When I said the French people were kept in good humour b f of e y the opperies their religion , I did not mean that ther w ere no gloomy spirits among them . There will be fanatics in Of religion , while there are people a saturnine disposition ,

and of . a of dev tee melancholy turn mind The char cter a o ,

w . hich is hardly known in England , is very common here u s ee f in Y o them walking to and rom church at all hours ,

their hoods and long camblet cloaks , with a slow pace, de wh o be mure aspect, and downcast eye . Those are poor e com very troublesome to the monks , with their scruples and on cases of conscience . Y ou may see them their knees , at d the f of . ev tee con essional , every hour the day The rich o has f f her avourite con essor, whom she consults and regales

in own private, at her house ; and this spiritual director

f . For generally governs the whole amily my part , I never

knew a fanatic that was not an hypocrite at bottom . Their t an pretensions o superior s an ctity, and absolute conquest S E 8 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANC AND ITALY . 7 o er all the m v passions , which hu an reason was never yet a to u of ble subdue , introd ced a habit dissimulation , which , a ll like other habits, is confirmed by use , till at length they e of nth b come adepts in the art and science hypocri sy . E u s iasm no Th and hypocrisy are by means incompatible . e

l f w in wi dest anatics I ever kne , were real sensualists their a of n e in w y living, and cu ning ch ats their dealings with mankind . w Of n e wh Among the lo er class people at Boulog e, thos o ta e f on e k the lead , are the sea aring men , who live in quar ter for of , divided into classes , and registered the service

‘ - the . r aw the king They are hardy and boned , exercise

t of a s . rade fishermen and boatmen , and propagate like r bbit They have put themselves under the protection of the mira culous Of one of image the Virgin Mary , which is kept in

t and . A c heir churches , every year carried in procession c n off r ordi g to the legend , this image was carried , with othe i the p llage, by the English , when they took Boulogne, in

re of . a a E n ign Henry VII I The l dy , r ther than reside in g she f a land , where ound a great m ny heretics , trusted her s f in of el alone an open boat, and crossed the sea to the road

B l for . ou ogne, where she was seen waiting a pilot Accord i n l off to fe g y a boat put her assistance , and brought her sa into the harbour : sin ce which time she h as continued to patronize the watermen of Boulogne . At present she is very in black and very ugly , besides being cruelly mutilated ff r of am di erent pa ts the body , which I suppose have been putate d,and converted into tobacco - stoppers : but once a

and year she is dressed in a very rich attire, carried in pro

b a of cession , with a silver o t , provided at the expense the sailors . That vanity which characterizes the French extends

a m even to the can ille . The lowest creature among the is s ure to have her ear - rings and golden cross hanging about of her neck . Indeed this last is an implement superstition

of f a . as well as dress , without which no em le appears The e common p ople here , as in all countries where they live

are - f u of n poorly and dirtily, hard eat red , and very brow or m at rather tawny complexions . As they seldom eat e , 288 S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

their juices are destitute of that anim al oil which gives a f plumpness and smoothness to the skin , and de ends those a f Of fine c pillaries rom the injuries the weather, which would

or a s to otherwise coalesce , be shrunk up , so impede the cir on f f a o . for culation the external sur ce the body As the dirt ,

of S it undoubtedly blocks up the pores the kin , and disorders : the perspiration consequently must contribute to the scurvy , itch , and other cutaneous distempers . of ma tel ts at In the quarter the o Boulogne , there is a num Of f ber poor Canadians , who were removed rom the island " f f t w of . o S . a re S John , in the gul L rence , when it was duce d by the English . These people are maintained at the ’ e of xpense the king , who allows them soldier s pay , that is

or tw o- f- a- or five sols , pence hal penny day ; rather three sols and ammunition bread . How the soldiers contrive to s ubsist upon this wretched allowance , I cannot comprehend ; l but it must be owned, that those inva ids who do duty at

Boulogne betray no marks of want . They are hale and u on sto t , neatly and decently clothed, and the whole look better than the pensioners of Chelsea . About three weeks ago I was favoured with a visit by one far i n Mr M an English gentleman , who seems gone

' a i a consumption . He passed the l st winter at Nismes n f f Languedoc , and ound himsel much better in the beginning

f a o summer, when he emb rked at Cette , and returned by sea to England . He soon relapsed , however, and (as he o a a imagines) in consequence f cold c ught at sea . He told o me his intention was to try the south again , and even to g

him a of f as far as Italy . I advised to make a tri l the air o

f . to Nice, where I mysel proposed to reside He seemed in own relish my advice, and proceeded towards Paris his carriage .

I shall to - morrow ship my great chests on board of a ship bound to Bourdeaux ; they are directed and recommended of of f to the care a merchant that place , who will orward Thoulous e of e them by , and the canal Langu doc, to his

- r of . cor espondent at Cette, which is the sea port Montpellier The charge of their conveyance to Bourdeaux does not ex

N A 29 0 TR AVELS THROUGH FRA CE N D ITALY .

I shall not pretend to describe the cities of Abbeville and saw en as s a n t Amiens, which we only p nor take up your

an of of time with account the stables and palace Chantilly , of belonging to the prince Conde, which we visited the last day Of our journey : n or shall I detain you with a detail of

r es r s de S t. Deni s the T o , which , together with the tombs

- ff our in the abbey church , a orded us some amusement while ll a . A u re men dinner was getting ready these partic lars .

n d w ff of a and e tio e in t enty di erent books tours , tr vels , dirc

t ou f . S ions , which y have O ten perused I hall only observe,

that th e abbey - church is the lightest piece of Gothic archi f fr e tecture I have seen , and the air within seems per ectly e d l from that amp and moisture , so perceivable in all our o d

h of cathedrals . T is must be owing to the nature its situa are th tion . There some fine marble statues that adorn e tombs of certain individuals here interred ; but they are in h mostly the French taste, whic is quite contrary to the

i of . ff simpl city the ancients Their attitudes are a ected , f or natural , and desultory , and their draperies antastic ; , as

one of our l f the a r e a ll ( Eng ish artists expressed himsel , y f

' fo lutter . A S r on a f the treasures, which are shewn certain ul days to the pop ace, gratis, they are contained in a num

of or i if th e ber presses armo res , and stones are genuine, a l they must be inestimable but this I c nnot be ieve . Indeed S I have been told, that what they hew as diamonds are no

of more than composition ; nevertheless , exclusive these , there Of are some rough stones great value , and many curiosities he worth seeing . T monk that shewed them was the very

a of our f im ge riend Hamilton , both in his looks and manner. I have one thing very extraordinary to observe of the

a v n French uberges , which seems to be a remarkable de iatio f f o . rom the general character the nation The landlords, Of u not hostesses , and servants the inns pon the road , have the least dash of complaisance in their behavi our to stran of td ou gers . Instead coming the door to receive y , as in of of ou ? e England , they take no manner notice y but leav

ou or h y to find inquire your way into the kitchen , and t ere ou for f y must ask several times a chamber, be ore they seem S RO R A D TRAVEL TH UGH F ANCE N ITALY. 2 9 1

willing to conduct you up stairs . In general you are served c of f ff with the appearan e the most morti ying indi erence , at the very time they are laying schemes for fleecing you of odd your money . It is a very contrast between France and

: f England in the ormer, all the people are complaisant , i but the publ cans ; in the latter, there is hardly any com

a . n all plais nce, but among the publicans Whe I said the w people in France , I ought also to except those vermin ho examine the baggage of travellers in different parts of th e

k n . d i gdom Although our portmanteaus were sealed with lea ,

- a f and we were provided with a passe av nt rom the douane, our coach was searched at the gate of Paris by which we en

red n out and a te ; and the wome were obliged to get , st nd in f the . open street , till this operation was per ormed f for I had desired a riend to provide lodgings me at Paris, ' t in the fauxoourg S . Germain ; and accordingly we found h ourselves accommodated at the hotel de Montmorency, wit

- a . l a first floor, which costs me ten livres day I shou d have put up wi th it had it been less poli te ; but as I have only a few to days to stay in this place, and some visits receive, I f am not sorry that my riend has exceeded his commission . of t of I have been guilty ano her piece extravagance, in hiring

f r r ~ r e de remis e o d . a ca oss , which I pay twelve liv es a ay of u not Besides the article visiting, I co ld leave Paris, with out carrying my wife and the girls to see the most remarkable o places in and about this capital , such as the Luxemb urg,

- Thuilleries the Palais royal , the , the Louvre , the Invalids , 8t c. the Gobelins , ; together with Versailles, Trianon , Marli, Choissi f ff Meudon , and ; and there ore I thought the di er of ca ence in point expense would not be great, between a

- r oss e de r emis e and a hackney coach . The first are ex tremel if t ar e y elegant , not too much ornamen ed ; the last very Shabby and disagreeable . Nothing gives me such va let de lace chagrin , as the necessity I am under to hire a p , own Y ou as my servant does not speak the language . can not conceive with what eagerness and dexterity those rascally al valets exert themselves in pillaging strangers . There is one in r i who i s ways ready waiting on your a r val, beg n by S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

own a a in assisting your servant to unload your b gg ge , and

t r s ts f ffa h a f fficiousness e e himsel in your a irs with suc rt ul o ,

f u him off h that you will find it di fic lt to shake , even thoug you were determined beforehand against hiring any such do f m es tic. He produces recommendati ons from his ormer mas

of for . ters , and the people the house vouch his honesty f u f and The truth is , those ellows are very handy, se ul , far in the obliging ; and so honest , that they will not steal Y ou f on e of ou usual way . may sa ely trust them to bring y ’ a hundred loui dores from your banker ; but they fleece

you without mercy in every other article of expense . They

lay all your tradesmen under contribution ; your tailor, f barber, mantuamaker, milliner, per umer , shoemaker , mer

- th e cer, jeweller, hatter, traiteur, and wine merchant ; even him bourgeois who owns your coach , pays twenty sols per

da to a ima y . His wages amount twice as much ; so th t I gine the fellow that serves me makes above ten shillings a

da b - - b y, besides his victuals , which , y the y, he has no right

to . Of demand Living at Paris , to the best my recollection , is very near t wice as dear as it was fifteen years ago ; and indeed this is the case in London ; a circumstance that must ’ be undoubtedly owing to the increase of taxes ; for I don t

of h find , that , in the articles eating and drinking, the Frenc am people are more luxurious than they were heretofore . I entr ees or told the , duties paid upon provisions imported of t into Paris , are very heavy . All manner butchers mea f and poultry are extremely good in this place . The bee is n excellent . The wine which is generally drank is a very thi of u kind B rgundy . I can by no means relish their cookery ;

on e fa etit ai ns but break sts deliciously upon their p p , and the a ter of p butter, which last is exquisite . of The common people , and even the bourgeois Paris , live , at on a un this season , chiefly bread and gr pes , which is

If a l of doubtedly very wholesome fare . the s me simp icity

i n a S diet prevailed Engl nd , we hould certainly undersell the French at all foreign markets : for they are very slothful with all their vivacity ; and the grea t number of their holidays l s not only encourages this lazy disposition , but actual y rob

2 1 S O 9 i TRAVEL THR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

s O n t r of thi pinion amo g the implici admi ers Lully, Racine,

and Moliere . ’ of I don t talk the busts , the statues , and the pictures, which abound at Versailles and other places in and about l of in Paris , particularly the great co lection capital pieces

- of . the Palais royal , belonging to the duke Orleans I have neither capacity nor inclination to give a critique on ’ cli f d ceuvr es e these f , which , indeed, would take up a whol f e volume . I have seen this great m agazine o painting thre times with astonishment ; but I Should have bee n better pleased if there had not been half the number : one is be f n b wildered in such a pro usion , as not to k ow where to egin , and hurried away before there is time to consider one piece

of . with any sort deliberation Besides, the rooms are all

of in . dark, and a great many the pictures hang a bad light for Choissi ar e As Trianon , Marli , and , they e no mor

t - in to notwith han pigeon houses , respect palaces ; and , s tanding the extravagant eulogiums which you have heard ’ of l f the French king s houses, I wil venture to a firm , that he of n f t king England is better, I mea more com ortably ,

l e . i odg d I ought, however to except Founta nbleau , which I

have not seen . of or f The city Paris is said to be five leagues , fi teen miles,

” in f if r h circum erence ; and , it is eally so, it must be muc m u a for r w ore pop lous th n London , the st eets are very narro , nd w ff f on a the houses very high , ith a di erent amily every w floor. But I have measured the best plans of these t o royal n ot n so cities, and am certain that Paris does take up ear much ground as London and Westminster occupy ; and I s uspect the number of its inhabitants is also exaggerated by

‘ s a m o h undre d thousand those who y it a ounts t eight , that two the is, hundred thousand more than are contained in l of at bi ls mortality . The hotels of the French noblesse

of - r Paris take up a great deal room , with their court ya ds

and gardens ; and so do their convents and churches . It o f must be wned, indeed, that their streets are wonder ully

crowded with people and carriages . The ren b n in F ch egi to imitate the E nglish , but only such T R AVEL S TH ROUGH FRANCE AND I TALY . 29 5

particulars as render them worthy of imitation . When I a at n of or fe was l st Paris , no perso any condition , male in f l n e male, appeared but u l dress , even whe obliged to com out in to early the morning, and there was not such a thing n ru ue r onde s ee be see as a. p e q but at present I a number Of frocks and scratches i n a morning in the streets of this m etite as te on etropolis . They have set up a p p , the plan

of o r - and am u penny post , with some improvements ; I told , there is a scheme on foot for supplying every house with

n f m r e . water, by leade pipes, ro the iver Sein They have r f h e ven adopted ou practice o the cold bath , whic is taken e in on the very conv niently, wooden houses, erected side of the i of le t and out n r ver, the water which is in occasio

a s ia of . e dif lly , by cock fixed the sides the bath Ther are ferent rooms for the different s exes ; th e accommodations

are e . of good, and the expens is a trifle The tapestry the Gobelins is brought to an amazing degr ee of perfection ; and I a m s urprised that this furniture is not more in fashion wh the o . It among great, alone are able to purchase it m would be a most elegant and magnificent orna ent, which would always n obly distinguish their apartments from those of an inferior rank ; and in this they would run no risk of h f e . t e o being rivalled by the bourg ois At village Chaillot, of s f in the neighbourhood Pari , they make beauti ul carpets s and screen work ; and thi is the more extraordinary , as t e are In al her hardly any carpe ts used in this kingdom .

all d - e th e of most the lo ging hous s , floors are brick , and e no of of hav other kind cleaning, than that being sprinkled

h - s a . wit water, and wept once day These brick floors, the s a of tone st irs, the want wainscotting in the rooms, and the of thick party walls stone, are , however, good preservatives

a m i n . gainst fire , which seldo does any damage this city of the Instead wainscotting, walls are covered with tapestry

or . The in are damask beds general very good, and well

o t nd . rnamented , with esters a curtains f n a o of Fi tee years g , the river Seine, within a mile Paris , was as solitary as if it had run through a desert . At present the banks of it are adorned with a number of elegant houses 929 6 R S T R A N D I T AVEL H OUGH FRANCE TALY .

a far and plant tions , as as Marli . I need not mention the a a t for ou m chine this place raising water, because I know y are well acquainted with its construction ; nor shall I say of of n ew any thing more the city Paris , but that there is a

on a Of a of square built an eleg nt plan , at the end the g rden Thuiller ie s : th e the it is called Place de Louis XV . , and in middle of it there is a good equestrian statue of the reign ing king.

Y ou f fr have O ten heard that Louis XIV . equently regret

C ff for of ted, that his ountry did not a ord gravel the walks his gardens , which are covered with a white loose sand, very disagreeable both to the eyes and feet of those who w alk up on a v of it ; but this is ulgar mistake . There is plenty

on a ai i n gravel the ro d between Paris and Vers lles, as well as m o of any ther parts this kingdom ; but the French , who are

for all glare and glitter, think the other is more gay and agreeable : one would imagin e they did not feel the burning f t reflection rom the white sand, which in summer is almos intolerable . of as e In the character the French , considered a peopl , there are undoubtedly many circumstances truly ridiculous . Y ou f are know the ashionable people, who go a hunting, equipped with their jack boots, bag wigs, swords, and pis tols but I saw the other day a scene still more grotesque .

O n Ch ois si a cr e or - the road to , a fi , hackney coach , stop out or ped, and came five six men , armed with muskets,

. our who took post , each behind a separate tree I asked s a r cher s ervant who they were , imagining they might be , f i f f or f o n o . ootpads j ustice, pursuit some male actor But s n f gues my surprise , whe the ellow told me, they were gen

tlemen a la chas s e. in f out f They were act come rom Paris, in of - this equipage, to take the diversion hare hunting ; of f that is , shooting rom behind a tree at the hares that

to . if w chanced pass Indeed , they had nothing more in Vie , but ff to destroy the game, this was a very e ectual method ; for in the hares are such plenty in this neighbourhood , that — I have seen a dozen together in the same field . I think this wa of in a h or m e y hunting, a co c ch ariot, ight b properly

2 8 T S O R I 9 RAVEL THR UGH F ANCE AND TALY .

lif to the of . a . e, suit his clothes mode the se son For ex he ample, though the weather should never so cold, he must ' ha bit d ete or demi - s a is on wear his , , without presuming to put on a warm dress before the day which fashion has fixed for that purpose ; and neither Old age nor infirmity will ex man for cuse a wearing his hat upon his head, either at

or . if home abroad Females are, possible, still more sub jcet to the caprices of fashion ; and as the articles of their ’ are f dress more mani old, it is enough to make a m an s heart w f of cotta r ier es ache to see his i e surrounded by a multitude ,

- l m . Al illiners , and tire women her sacks and negligees

must be altered and ne w trimmed . She must have new

n ew new . cap s , new laces , shoes , and her hair cut She ff for for must have her ta eties the summer, her flowered silks

fo r . the spring and autumn , her satins and damasks winter ’ The good man who used to wear the bean dr ap d A ng le ter r e a n all a bob or , quite pl i the year round , with long , m f tie periwig , must here provide hi sel with a camblet suit , t for n t rimmed with silver , spring and autum , with silk clo hes for h f or for summer, and clot aced with gold velvet win

w - v t er ; and he must eaf his bag wig a la pig eon . This a riety of dress is absolutely indispensable for all those who pretend to any rank above the mere bourgeois . On his re

t own fri s . urn to his country , all this ppery is u eless He cannot appear in London until he has undergone another thorough metamorphosis ; SO that he will have some reason r of i n to think , that the t adesmen Par s and Londo have com bined : to lay him under contribution and they , no doubt, are the directors who regulate the fashions in both capitals ; — the E w : for nglish , ho ever, in a subordinate capacity the of l puppets their making wil not pass at Paris , nor indeed in of u etit ma itr e any other part E rope ; whereas , a French p is reckoned a complete figure everywhere, London not ex of cepted . Since It is so much the humour the English at r un anti allican present to abroad , I wish they had g spirit e nough to produce themselves in their own genuine E nglish hilos o dress , and treat the French modes with the same p

w w a . hical co tempt, which as she n by n honest gentle p n‘ TRAVEL S TH ROUGH FRANCE A ND ITALY. 2 9 9

e of . man, distinguish d by the name Wig Middleton That unshaken patriot still appears in the same kind of scratch

w - S h peri ig, skimming dish hat, and lit sleeve, whic were

fi ve- - worn and twenty years ago , and has invariably persist i a c of of ed n this garb, in defi n e all the revolutions the f e mode . I remember a student in the Temple , who , a t r a

of 7 0 mak er bea uti ul long and learned investigation the , or f , to w in had resolution enough let his beard gro , and wore it

l - at- e for all public places, unti his heir law appli d a com mission of luna cy against him ; then he submitted to th e f f n m razor rather tha n run th e risk o being ound on co p os . f e s l ou Be or I conclude, I mu t tel y , that the most reput abl e shopkeepers and tradesmen of Paris think it no disgrace h f to practise t e most shameful imposition . I mysel know an instance of one of the most credi table ma r cha nds in this c f for apital , who demanded six rancs an ell some lustrings,

laying his hand upon his breast at the same time , and de clarin en cons cience him i g , that it had cost w thin three sols

of . in it the money Yet, less than three minutes, he sold for f f him h our and a hal , and when the buyer upbraided wit f e his ormer declaration , he shrugg d up his shoulders, say ’ il zu ma cha/nde t r r . ing, fl I don t mention this as a partien di iri it lar instance . The same mean s genu y is universal all o r c as f d of ve Fran e, I have been in orme by several persons

veracity . The next letter you have from me will probably be dated

at Nismes or . am . , Montpellier Meanwhile, I ever yours

V LETTE R I I .

TO MRS. M O tober 1 2 1 MADAM, P aris , Oc , 763. I SH ALL be much pleased if the remarks I have made on the characters of the French people can afford you the sa i f i can t s act o . n you require With respect to the ladies, I o f m e i nly judge ro their xter ors ; but , indeed, these are so c one e : e haracteristic, that can hardly judg amiss unl ss we suppose that a woman of taste and sentiment may be

s - f e f o over ruled by the absurdity o what is call d ashion , S RO R 300 T RAVEL TH UGH F ANCE AND I TAL Y .

to in me as reject reason , and disguise nature, order to beco ridiculous or frightful . That this may be the case with some individuals, is very possible . I have known it hap in our own f of pen country , where the ollies the French are a w a dopted, and exhibited in the most awk ard imit tion of but the general prevalence those preposterous modes , is

‘ f of a plain proo that there is a general want taste, and a g eneral depravity of nature . I shall not pretend to describe ’ the particulars of a French lady s dress . These you are much better acquainted with than I can preten d to be hold afli rm but this I will be to , that France is the general f of f reservoir rom which all the absurdities alse taste , luxury, and ov erflowed ff ms extravagance, have the di erent kingdo

and of . a states Europe The springs th t fill this reservoir, are no other than vanity and ignorance . It would be super f f the of f m luous to attempt proving rom nature things , ro Of f m con the first principles and use dress , as well as ro the of of sideration natural beauty , and the practice the ancients, who certainly understood it as well as the connoisseurs Of n othin can inconve these days , that g be more monstrous, and f of n nient, contemptible, than the ashion moder drap f ll f d . Y ou f o a an ery yoursel are well aware its de ects , have often ridiculed them in my hearing . I shall only mention one particular of dress essential to the fashion in n ff n this country, which seems to me to carry huma a ectatio to f of f the very arthest edge olly and extravagance ; that is, th e manner in which the faces of the ladies are primed and f painted . When the Indian chie s were in England , every body ridiculed th eif preposterous method of painting their

- l t cheeks and eye ids ; "bu this ridicule was wrong placed . l to h ave do Those critics ought considered , that the Indians n ot use paint to make themselves agreeable ; but i n order to s u be the more terrible to their enemies . I t is generally p

Of a r d posed , I think , that your sex make use f and vermil lion ' for ff or very di erent purposes ; namely , to help a bad f x or aded comple ion , to heighten the graces, conceal the

d f Of of . e ects nature, as well as the ravages time I shall not inquire at present whether it is just and honest to ims

302 T A S O F R VEL THR UGH RANCE A N D I TALY .

Chickesaws of s tions , the America, and the Hottentot Of

f . O n ne of fi n A rica the whole, when I see o those e crea a h r of tures sailing long, in e tawdry robes silk and gauze, f flounced furbeloe d hér fa rilled and , and , with lse locks , f f her alse jewels , her paint, her patches , and per umes ; I cannot help looking upon her as the vilest piece of sophis

o ticati n that art ever produced . of a of all This hideous mask p inting, though destructive f beauty , is , however, avourable to natural homeliness and

f . of in de ormity It accustoms the eyes the other sex, and tim e reconciles them to frightful Objects it disables them from perceiving any distinction of features between woman and w fa oman ; and by reducing all ces to a level, gives every female an equal chance for an admirer ; being in this pars ticular analogous to the practice of the ancient L ace demo nians - , who were obliged to choose their help mates in the In of fur dark . what manner the insides their heads are nished f n , I would not presume to judge rom the conversatio Of a very few to whom I have had access : but from the na of ture their education , which I have heard described , and th of . e natural vivacity their tempers, I should expect nei

S . ther sense, entiment, nor discretion From the nursery , to they are allowed, and even encouraged , say every thing that comes uppermost ; by which means they acquire a volu ~ bili t Of of s y tongue, and a set phrases , which constitute

what is called polite conversation . At the same time they e of or obtain an absolut conquest over all sense shame, ra ther they avoid acquiring this troublesome sensation for i t s is certainly no innate idea . Those who have not governesse e for few to at home, are s nt a years a convent , where they lay in a fund of superstition that serves them for life : but I never heard they had the least Opportunity of cultivating of of or of the mind , exercising the powers reason , imbibing

for or or f . a taste letters, any rational use ul accomplishment f d A ter being taught to prattle, to ance, and play at cards , they are deemed sufli ciently qualified to appear in the g r and m nde f of o , and to per orm all the duties that high rank and

s i f . In n tation n li e mentioni g cards, I ought to observe, TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND I TALY. 803

for that they learn to play not barely amusement , but also w w e ou ith a Vie to advantage ; and, inde d y seldom mee t of or f o with a native France, whether male emale, who is n t all a complete gamester, well versed in the subtleties and

fines se s of . all the art This is likewise the case over Italy .

of in f s A lady a great house Piedmont , having our son , S makes no scruple to declare, that the first hall represent th e f amily , the second enter into the army , the third into the f church , and that she will breed the ourth a gamester. These noble adventurers devote themselves in a particular to of e f m our manner the entertainment trav llers ro country, f of because the English are supposed to be ull money , rash ,

of . S incautious, and utterly ignorant play But such a harp n f er is most dangerous, whe he hunts in couple with a e

. and f who male I have known a French count his wi e, f H ound means to lay the most wary under contribution . e

ff : was smooth , supple, O icious, and attentive she was young,

f . If a handsome , unprincipled , and art ul the Englishm n marked for prey was found upon his guard against the de

Of o S of signs the husband , then madam plies him n the ide

of gallantry . She displayed all the attractions her person .

She sung, danced , ogled , sighed , complimented , and com If plained . he was insensible to all her charms , she flatter d v b h e his anity , and piqued his pride, y extolling the wealt and generosity of the English ; and if he proved deaf to all in these insinuations , she, as her last stake , endeavoured to teres t a . h his hum nity and compassion She expatiated , wit in on ff of her tears her eyes , the cruelty and indi erence great relations ; represented that her husband was no more than the cadet of a noble family ; that his provision n o i of was by means su table, either to the dignity his rank ,

or the generosity of his disposition : that he had a law- suit of great consequence depending , which had drained all his u if finances ; and, finally , that they should be both r ined, f ac they could not find some generous riend , who would commodate them with a sum of money to bring the cause to h a determination . Those who are not actuated by suc f m scandalous motives, become gamesters ro mere habit, and , 4 S 30 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

a or having nothing more solid to eng ge their thoughts, employ of i t their time, consume the best part their l ves in this wors

of all dissipation . I am not ignorant that there are excep tions from this general rule : I know that France has pro

' d uce Dacier d a Maintenon , a Sevigne, a Scuderi , a , and a Chatelet ; but I would no more deduce the general charac e r of a f t the French l dies rom these examples , than I would

of - call a field hemp a flower garden , because there might be in it a fe w lilies or r anunculus planted by the hand of ac

eident . Woman has been defined a weaker man ; but in this

country , the men are, in my opinion , more ridiculous and

insignificant than the women . They certainly are more dis s agreeable to a rational inquirer, becau e they are more trou f f of blesome . O all the coxcombs on the ace the earth , a French p etit maitr e is the most impertinent ; and they are all etit maitr es f in p , rom the marquis who glitters lace and a r n ba r bier wh o embroidery , to the g go covered with meal , in struts with his hair a long queue , and his hat under his

arm . I have already observed, that vanity is the great and universal mover among all ranks and degrees of people in this nation ; and as they take no pains to conceal or con

trol it, they are hurried by it into the most ridiculous , and ,

indeed, intolerable extravagance . of n When I talk the French nation , I must agai except f a great number o individuals from the general censure . for f Though I have a hearty contempt the ignorance , olly , can and presumption , which characterize the generality , I

of a e not but respect the talents many gre t men , who hav eminently distinguished themselves in every art and science these I Shall always revere and esteem as creatures of a s u for of perior species , produced, the wise purposes Providence ,

among the refuse of mankind . It would be absurd to con l de c u ,that the Welsh or Highlanders are a gigantic people, because those mountains may have produced a few indivi n f to duals near seve eet high . It would be equally absurd of e suppose the French are a nation philosophers , becaus a a Fr nce has given birth to a Des Cartes, a Maupertuis, ff Reaumur, and a Bu on .

S A N D I TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE TALY.

of f unim r oved d heart a emale, p b y reason , and untincture Of with natural good sense, should flutter at the sight such a gaudy thin g among the number of her admirers : this im f f own pression is en orced by ustian compliments , which her

vanity interprets in a literal sense, and still more confirmed

of a by the assiduous attention the g llant , who , indeed , has n of h is othing else to mind . A Frenchman , in consequence

f f fa be mingling with the emales rom his in ncy , not only

all and comes acquainted with their customs humours, but grows wonderfully alert in performing a thousand little of f ar e m h ices, which overlooked by other men , whose ti e hat H e been spent in m aking more considerable acquisitions . ’ a - a Sh e enters , without ceremony , lady s bed ch mber , while

a a f is in bed, re ches her wh tever she wants , airs her shi t,

on . a and helps to put it He attends at her toilette, regul tes of o the distribution her patches , and advises where to lay n

. If Sh e e r the paint he visits her when is dressed , and p ceiv es co u r e the least impropriety in her ef , he insists upon own : if or adj usting it with his hands he sees a curl , even a

s cis s ars single hair amiss, he produces his comb , his , and

of porn atum , and sets it to rights with the dexterity a pro f d r i u es se s r e. V f He squires her to every place she isits , on or either business pleasure ; and, by dedicating his whole

f . time to her, renders himsel necessary to her occasions This I take to be the most agr eeable Side of his character : let us

on of view him the quarter impertinence . A Frenchman pries into all your secrets with the most impudent and im or tunate p curiosity , and then discloses them without remorse . If t you are indisposed , he questions you about the symp oms Of your disorder with more freedom than your physician f i would presume to use ; very o ten n the grossest terms . H e for b e then proposes his remedy ( they are all quacks) , pre i t ou h pares without your knowledge, and worries y wit soli a a the cit tion to t ke it , without paying the least regard to opinion of those whom you have chosen to take care of your or he health . Let you be ever so ill , averse to company , f f - if orces himsel at all times into your bed chamber, and it

f l ff . is necessary to give him a peremptory re usa , he is a ronted T RAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 807

' I have known one of those petit maitres insist upon paying regular visits twice a day to a poor gentleman who was deli n s on ff ll rio s ; and he conver ed with him di erent subjects , ti he was in his last agonies . This attendance is not the effect of or a of a attachment reg rd , but sheer vanity , th t he may afterwards boast of his charity and hum ane disposition ; of a I though all the people I h ve ever known , think the French are the least capable of feeling for the distresses of

f - their ellow creatures . Their hearts are not susceptible of deep impressions ; and such is their levity , that the imagin ation has not time to bre od long over any disagreeable idea

or . f sensation As a Frenchman piques himsel on his gallantry , ’ he of f r no sooner makes a conquest a emale s hea t, than he e a t for a a of xposes her char c er , the gr tific tion his vanity .

if s l f Nay , he hould miscarry in his schemes , he wil orge f ’ o l a . letters and stories , to the ruin the ady s reput tion This is a species of pe rfidy which one would think should render them odious and detestable to the whole s ex; but the case is I otherwise . beg your pardon , madam ; but women are never better pleased than when they see one another exposed ; and every individual has such confidence in her own supe

can rior charms and discretion , that she thinks she fix the

f . most volatile , and re orm the most treacherous lover If f a Frenchman is admitted into your amily , and distin

uished b r e e ated a of f a , g y _ p m rks your riendship and reg rd the first return he makes for your civilities is to make love to

f if : if your wi e , she is handsome not , to your sister, or d s ff f f or . If aughter , niece he u ers a repulse rom your wi e, or a a or dau h attempts in v in to deb uch your sister , your g or ter , your niece, he will , rather than not play the traitor with his gallantry , make his addresses to your grandmother

ten one on e a or a and to , but in sh pe nother, he will find

a n of f il me ns to rui the peace a am y , in which he has been so kindly entertained . What he cannot accomplish by dint of a compliment , and person l attendance , he will endeavour

ff f - , to e ect by rein orcing these with billet doux , songs and

of for verses , which he always makes a provision such pur

. I ff of re poses f he is detected in these e orts treachery , and ‘ 308 T S A N D RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE I TALY .

roached a that p with his ingr titude , he impudently declares ,

had a a “ what he done was no more th n simple gall ntry , con s ide re d in France as an indispensable duty on every man ff . Na a who pretended to good breeding y, he will even irm , f that his endeavours to corrupt your wi e , or deflower your f of daughter, were the most genuine proo s he could give his

a for fa particul r regard your mily.

If of a f . a Frenchman is capable re l riendship , it must cer tainly be the most disagreea ble present he can possibly make

f h w a o a . to a man a true Englis ch racter You kno , m dam ,

are e of we naturally taciturn , soon tir d impertinence , and

of h f much subject to fits disgust . Your Frenc riend intrudes upon you at all hours : he stuns you with his loquacity

‘ he teases you with impertinent q ue s tion s about your domestic and private affairs : he attempts to meddle in all your con -é cerns ; and forces his advice upon you with the most un wearied importunity : he asks the price of every thing you

a a we r, and , so sure as you tell him , underv lues it , without

: a ff m bad a - ill hesitation he ir s it is in a t ste, ill contrived , made ; that you have been imposed upon both with respect f a of h to the ashion and the price ; that the m rquis t is , or

of f the countess that , has one that is per ectly elegant , quite

ban ton in the , and yet it cost her little more than you gave

for a thing that nobody would wear . If there were five hundred dishes at table , a Frenchman

of all of a h as s will eat them , and then compl in he no app f of . A tite . This I have several times remarked riend mine gained a considerable wager upon an experiment of this

eti t ma itr e of f ff la tes be kind . The p ate ourteen di erent p , a s ides the dessert ; then disp raged the cook , declaring he was

ma r i n a m t . no better than o , or turnspit The French have a most ridiculous fondness for their hair ; and this I believe they inherit from their remote an

‘ ces tors . The first race of French kings were distinguished by their long h air ; and certainly the people of this country

consider it as an indispensable ornament . A Frenchman

a a will sooner p rt with his religion th n with his hair, which f w indeed no consideration will induce him to orego . I kno

0 31 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRA N CE A ND ITALY.

attachment constitute the language of common compliment e e o in in this country , and ar nev r supposed to be underst od the literal a cceptation of the words ; and if their acts of ge n erosit - y are but very rare , we ought to ascribe that rarity, of not so much to a deficiency generous sentiments , as to and t i all t their vanity ostenta ion , which , engross ng heir f f i of be unds , utterly disable them rom exert ng the virtues fi ne cen ce . a s Vanity , indeed , predominates among all r nk e tis ts to such a degree , that they are the greatest g o in the world ; and the most insignificant individual talks in com pany with th e same conceit and arrogance as a person of

h or t e greatest importance . Neither conscious poverty n dis grace will restrain him in the least either from a ssuming his f s a of a or a ull h re the convers tion , m king his addresses to the finest lady whom he h a s the smallest opportunity to ap proach ; nor is he restrained by any other consideration

. one f whatsoever It is all to him , whether he himsel has a

f of own a wi e his , or the lady a husb nd ; whether she is de

for or re- f signed the cloister, p engaged to his best riend and f bene actor . He takes it for granted that his addresses can not if he but be acceptable ; and he meets with a repulse ,

‘

but own . condemns her taste, never doubts his qualifications I have a gr eat many things to say of their military cha racter of s , and their punctilios honour, which la t are equal ly absurd and pernicious ; bu t as this letter has run to an

a f l o unconscion ble length , I shall de er them ti l another p

‘

ortunit . a p y Meanwhile , I h ve the honour to be, with very

e i . particular esteem , madam , your most ob d ent servant

T LE TER VIII .

TO MR M

DE A R SIR L ons ctober 1 9 1 63. , y , O , 7

I WA S fa h u voured wit yours at Paris , and look pon your f f o f . reproaches as the proo your riendship The truth is , I considered all the letters I have hitherto written on the sub ect of o j my travels as written to your s ciety in general , though they h ave been addressed to one individual of it ; 1 ' T RAVEL S THROUGH FRA N CE AND I TALY. 1 and if they contain any thing that can either amuse or in f f be f e orm , I desire that hence orth all I send may reely p rused by all the m embers . W a a ou ith respect to my he lth , bout which y so kindly

i . Inqu re, I have nothing new to communicate I had reason to think that my bathing in the sea a t Boulogne produced a

ff e . Y ou good e ect, in strength ning my relaxed fibres know h ow subject I was to colds in England ; that I could not

f - f l stir abroad a ter sun set , nor expose mysel to the sma lest e on k damp, nor walk till the least moisture appear d my s in ,

for or f . without being laid up ten days a ortnight At Paris, out arm however, I went every day, with my hat under my ,

‘ though the weather was wet and cold : I walked in the gar at i f a nu den Versa lles even a ter it was dark , with my he d ou i far f m covered , a cold even ng , when the ground was ro

being dry nay , at Marli , I sauntered above a mile through damp alleys and wet grass : and from none of these risks did f I eel the least inconvenience . In on e of our excursions we visited the manufacture for r of po celain , which the king France has established at the t of S . on village Cloud the road to Versailles, and which is

indeed a noble monument of his munificence . I t is a very

large building, both commodious and magnificent, where a of a great number rtists are employed , and where this elegant s uperfluity is carried to as great perfection as it ever was at f e all D . resden Yet , a t r , I know not whether the porcelain made at Chelsea may not Vie with the productions either of t f or . . If f o Dresden S Cloud it alls short either, it is not in d or the esign , painting, enamel , other ornaments , but only

in of of the composition the metal , and the method manag to a a ing it in the furn ace . Our porcelain seems be p rtial f a vitrification o levigated flint and fine pipe cl y , mixed to gether in a certain proportion ; and if the pieces are not re f m in moved ro the fire the very critical moment , they will I i . n be either too little or too much v trified the first case, I apprehend they will not acquire a proper degree of cohe to sion ; they will be apt to be corroded , discoloured , and l : crumble, ike the first essays that were made at Chelsea 31 2 S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITA LY .

in a f the second c se, they will be little better than imper ect

glass .

of f s There are three methods travelling rom Paris to Lyon ,

of a which , by the shortest road , is a journey bout three hun d . dili en ce or a red and sixty miles One is by the g , st ge f it coach , which per orms in five d ays ; and every passenger of n ot pays one hundred livres , in consideration which , he

a a a on the only has a seat in the c rri ge , but is m intained

w a of r oad . The inconveniences attending this y travelling are these : you are crowded into the carr iage to the number

of as and eight persons , so to sit very uneasy , sometimes run

the risk of being stifled among very indifferent company .

Y ou u out of at f f are h rried bed our, three, nay o ten at two , ’ o ar e at in o clock in the morning . Y u e obliged to the to a French way , which is very disagreeable an English p late : and at Chalons you must embark upon the Soane in a b ou oat , which conveys y to Lyons ; so that the two last A ll insur days of your journey are by water . these were

b ‘ a of mounta le objections to me , who am in such bad state i i fe health , troubled with an asthmatic cough , sp tt ng , slow

and of ver, restlessness , which demands a continual change

f for . place , as well as ree air, and room motion I was this of Gustaldi day visited by two young gentlemen , sons Mr ,

late minister from Genoa at London . I had seen them at

of u of . Paris, at the house the d chess Douglas They came dili en ce u me hither with their conductor in the g , and ass red that nothing could be more disagreeable than their situation

in that carriage . Another way of travelling in this country is to hire a coach and four horses ; an d this method I was inclined to

: take but when I went to the bureau , where alone these

a voitures are to be had , I was given to underst nd that it

- and- a would cost me six twenty guineas , and tr vels so slow, a that I should be ten days upgn the road . These c rriages are let by the same persons who farm the diligence ; and for t m his they have an exclusive privilege, which makes the t very saucy and insolent . When I mentioned my servan , ’ they gave me to understand that I must pay two loui dores

31 4 TRAVEL S TH ROUGH F RANCE A ND I TALY.

i s hire ; but the hills , rocks, and mountains , with which it s

m . diversified , render it ore agreeable of The people this country dine at noon , and travellers

a t a u ber e or always find an ordinaryprepared every g , pub

- on . lic house the road Here they sit down promiscuously , and dine at so much ah ead . The usual price is thirty sols for f for for dinner, and orty supper, including lodging ; this If moderate expense they have two courses and a desert . wn a of f you eat in your o apartment, you p y, instead orty

f - in a . and sols, three, and some places our, livres head I my family could not well dispense with our tea and toast in

a e at . For the morning, and had no stom ch to at noon my own and abominate part, I hate the French cookery , , garlic, t of with which all heir ragouts , in this part the country , are highly seasoned : we therefore formed a different plan of liv f a . f ing upon the ro d Be ore we le t Paris , we laid in a stock of a an d aa ucis s ons or B0 tea, chocolate, cured ne ts tongues , ,

of h f a f logna sausages , both whic we ound in gre t per ection i n a a that c pit l , where indeed there are excellent provisions

in of all sorts . About ten the morning we stopped to break f at we f ast some auberge, where always ound bread , butter,

. ula r d or and milk In the meantime , we ordered a po two

to be roasted , and these wrapped in a napkin , were put of c into the boot the oach , together with bread , wine , and f . or a water About two three in the ternoon , while the horses

our were changing, we laid a cloth upon knees , and pro ducin our fe w our g store , with a earthen plates , discussed

short meal without further ceremony . This was followed by of a f a desert gr pes and other ruit, which we had also pro vi w f f ded . o n s I must , I ound these transient re re hments much more agreeable than any regular meal I ate upon the

road . The wine commonly used in Burgundy is so weak

ri . and thin , that yo would not drink it in England The e of very best which th y sell at Dijon , the capital the pro c for i n vin e , three livres a bottle , is , in strength , and even

f . flavour, greatly in erior to what I have drank in London I believe all the first growth is either consumed in the houses

of or f . the noblesse, sent abroad to oreign markets I have S RO R A TRAVEL TH UGH F ANCE ND ITALY . 31 5

I drank excellent Burgundy at Brussels for a florin a bottle ; o that is, little m re than twenty pence sterling. n f f of The cou try , rom the orest Fountainbleau to the

L onnois h a a h a y , throug which we p ssed , is r t er agree ble

f of the than ertile, being part Champagne , and duchy of n a th Burgu dy, watered by three pleasant p storal rivers , e

S a . flat iene, the Yonne , and the So ne The country is laid out for a chiefly corn ; but produces more rye th n wheat .

all l Almost the ground seems to be p oughed up , so that there

l o f ar w is ittle r nothing lying allow . There e very fe inclo s far ures , scarce any meadow ground , and, so as I could

of . f observe, a great scarcity cattle We sometimes ound it

difli cult f a of for o r very to procure hal pint milk u tea . In

Burgundy , I saw a peasant ploughing the ground with a

- - e jack ass , a lean cow , and a , he goat , yok d together . It is a of gener lly observed , that a great number black cattle are fe d on of B bred and the mountains urgundy , which are the f w highest lands in France ; but I saw very e . The peasants irr France are so wretchedly poor , and so much oppressed by i s ff the r landlord , that they cannot a ord to inclose their or s or grounds , give a proper respite to their land ; to stock their farms with a s ufli cien t number of black cattle to pro n can duce the necessary ma ure, without which agriculture

n e of f ever be carri d to any degree per ection . Indeed , what e ver efforts a fe w individuals may make for the benefit of own e their estates , husbandry in France will never be g

nerall f f . y improved , until the armer is ree and independent f of i From the requency towns and villages, I should imag ne wn this country is very populous ; yet , it must be o ed , that in s aw the towns are general thinly inh abited . I a good number of country seats and plantations near the banks of on the rivers , each side ; and a great many convents , sweetly on situated , rising grounds , where the air is most pure, and h ow the prospect most agreeable . It is surprising to see happy the founders of those religious houses have been in of their choice situations , all the world over .

In passing through this country , I was very much struck h of f h wit the sight large ripe clusters o grapes , entwined wit 31 6 R S O R T AVEL THR UGH F ANCE AND ITALY .

of briars and thorns common hedges on the way side . The mountains of Burg undy are cov er ed with vines from the bot m e to to the top , and seem to be raised by n ature on purpos

to f a a extend the sur ace , and to expose it the more adv nt ge

l of b a nda e was be ous y to the rays the sun . The g but just h gun , and the people were employed in gat ering the grapes saw of f h but I no signs estivity among them . Perhaps t eir joy was a little damped by the bad prospect of their harvest ; for they complained that the weather had been so unfa l v ourab e a f . as to hinder the gr pes rom ripening I thought , i f ndeed , there was something uncom ortable in seeing the

a of for in vintage thus ret rded till the beginning winter ; ,

f a s ome parts , I ound the weather extremely cold ; p rticularly

a - la at a place c lled Maison neuve , where we y, there was a f an d he h hard rost, in the morning t pools were covered wit

a on ice . My person l adventures the road were such as will

not bear a recital . They consisted of petty disputes with

- and . landladies , post masters , postillions The highways

s eem to be perfectly s afe . We did not find that any robbe not one of ries were ever committed , although we did see the ma r e ma r echa us s e from Paris to Lyons . You know the

lzaus s e of in c are a body troopers well m ounted , maintained a France as safegu ards to the public roads . It is a repro ch

a not for upon England , th t some such patrol is appointed f the protection o travellers . h on At Sens , in C ampagne, my servant , who had rode

f a f of be ore to bespe k resh horses , told me , that the domestic a a had f hi m a nother comp ny been provided be ore , lthough

as a a t . it was not his turn , he had arrived l ter the post

a - Provoked at this parti lity , I resolved to chide the post mas

a m f ter, and accordingly ddressed ysel to a person who stood

f fat o u . at the door the a berge He was a jolly figure , and f n odd of a ca air, dressed i an kind g rb , with a gold laced p on a c a f his head , and cambri h ndkerchie pinned to his mid

. of fa eti t ma itr e dle The sight such a ntastic p , in the cha

- r acter of . a a post master, increased my spleen I c lled to

him of with an air authority , mixed with indignation , and w n he he came up to the coach , asked , in a peremptory

S 318 T RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY .

r am a fa and , I pulled up the gl ss in his ce , he withdrew again f d tm to the door, seemingly ru fled at my epor ent . In a little a a nd of m time the horses rrived , three the were immediately

a - a d put to a very h ndsome post ch ise , into which he steppe , out on and set , accompanied by a man in a rich livery horse a back . Astonished at this circumstance , I sked the ostler he was of f n who he was , and replied that he a man ashio f (nu seigneur) who lived in the neighbourhood o Auxerre . I was much mortified to find that I ha d treated a nobleman so e own for not e scurvily , and scold d my people having mor

a s a not f to t penetration than myself. I d re y he did ail descan upon the brutal behav iour of the Englishman ; and that my mistake served wi th him to confirm the national reproach of

- u bluntness , and ill breeding, nder which we lie in this

country . The truth is , I was that day more than usually f f Of peevish , rom the bad weather, as well as rom the dread of was : a fit the asthma , with which I threatened and I

‘ dare say my appearance seemed as uncouth to him as his

trav ellin d re ss a a g ppe red to me . I had a grey mourning

f a rock under wide great coat , a bob wig without powder, r a very la ge laced hat, and a meagre, wrinkled, discontented

countenance . f of our The ourth night journey we lay at Macon , and L onnois fine the next day passed through the y , which is a ’

f of and . country , ull towns , villages , gentlemen s houses

Maccon ois In passing through the , we saw a great many of of or fields Indian corn , which grows to the height six seven feet : it is made into floi i r for the use of the common

of urke whea t. people , and goes by the name T y Here like as in au hlne of wise, well as D p , they raise a vast quantity of very large pompions, with the contents which they thick

en their soup and ragouts . on of As we travelled only while the sun was up , account s in or my ill health , and the post horse in France are bad

m - ee a da . der, we seldo exc ded twenty le gues a y

- I was directed to a lodging house at Lyons , which being f ull , they shewed us to a tavern , where I was led up three pair of stairs to an apartment consisting of three paltry S R . 31 TRAVEL TH OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 9

for e l chambers , which the people demanded twelv ivres a

: for and - s day dinner supper they asked thirty two , beside three livres for my servant ; so that my daily expense would

f - n f have amounted to about orty seve livres , exclusive o f breakfast and coffee in the a ternoon . I was so provoked one e at this extortion , that, without answering word , I drov of to another auberge, where I now am , and pay at the rate

a- for am twenty and thirty livres day , which I very badly

inditferentl . n lodged , and but very y entertained I mentio these circumstances to give you an idea of the imposition to u b which strangers are subject in this country . It m st e w in of e owned , ho ever, that , the article eating, I might sav half the money by going to the public ordinary ; but this is of of a scheme economy which , (exclusive other disagree of able circumstances) neither my Own health , nor that my

f . f t wi e, permits me to embrace My journey rom Paris o of s Lyons , including the hire the coach , and all expense ’ on few f loui the road , has cost me , within a shillings , orty our dOres . From Paris baggage (though not plombe) was i Clt e not once examined till we arrived in th s y, at the gat f one of o which we were questioned by the searchers, who

h f- a- being tipt wit hal crown , allowed us to proceed without

further inquiry . I purposed to stay in Lyons until I should receive some t f f letters I expec ed rom London , to be orwarded by my banker at Paris : but the enormous expense of living in this manner has determined me to set out in a day or two for a wa out of Montpellier, although that place is good y the f road to Nice . My reasons or taking that route I shall con

municate . in my next Meanwhile , I am ever, dear sir, your

affectionate and obliged humble servant .

IX LETTER .

DE AR SI R mzf lli r ov r 5 1 , M p e e , N embe , 763 . ‘ q H E city of Lyons has been so often and so circumstantial l n ew on y described, that I cannot pretend to say any thing

of the subject . Indeed , I know very little it , but what I have read in books ; as I had but one day to make a tour A D TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE N ITALY .

a a . The of the streets , squares , and other remark ble pl ces b I bridge over the Rhone seems to be so slightly uilt , that sh ould imagine it would be one day carried away by that v a as m a f r rapid ri er ; especi lly the arches are so s all, th t a te great rains they are someti mes bone/tees or stopped up ; that ff for is, they do not admit a su icient passage the increased

body of the water. In order to remedy this dangerous de

f s a f an a a eet , in ome me sure , they ound rtist some ye rs ago, in who has removed a middle pier , and thrown two arches

a as to one . This alter tion they looked upon a masterpiece

t r u i n in architec u e , tho gh there is many a common mason

a a and f Engl nd , who would have undert ken per ormed the f work , without valuing himsel much upon the enterprise . ‘ h t n o more a of S . E This bridge , th n t at sprit , is built , not

a e h in straight lin across the river , but with a curve , whic forms a convexity to oppose the current . Such a bend is certainly calculated for the better resisting the general im '

et osit of and has bad e flect . p u y the stream , no to the eye a nd Lyons is a great , populous , flourishing city ; but I

am surprised to find it is counted a healthy place, and that.

‘ fa the air of it is esteemed vourable to pulmonic disorders . on of f m It is situated the confluence two large rivers , ro

a a f m which there must be gre t evaporation , as well as ro f w the low marshy grounds , which these rivers o ten overflo . f if This must render the air moist, rowsy , and even putrid , it was not well ventil a ted by winds from the mountains of

a of Switzerland ; and in the l tter end autumn , it must be f out f subject to ogs . The morning we set rom thence , the whole city and adjacent plains were covered with so thick a fo f g , that we could not distinguish rom the coach the head w of the foremost mule th at dre it . Lyons is said to be f very hot in summer, and very cold in winter ; there ore I

' inflammator and imagine , must abound with y intermittent f disorders in the spring and fal l o the year . for t o out of th e My reasons going Montpellier, which is N : e straight road to ice, were these having no acquaintanc of had nor correspondents in the south France , I desired my credit might be sent to th e same house to which my heavy

32 2 T S R G E I RAVEL TH OU H FRANC AND TALY .

por tunities (from the slowness of our pace) to contemplate a its be uties at leisure .

of n in a a The rapidity the Rho e is , a gre t me sure, owing

a on to its being confined within steep b nks each side . These

f b e are ormed almost throug h its whole course , by a dou l

of o a f m chain m untains , which rise with an abrupt scent ro

a r both bank s of the river . The mount ins a e covered with e s i n vineyards , int rspersed with mall summer houses , and

m a a re e a nd any pl ces they crown d with churches , ch pels , a

a of the convents , which add greatly to the romantic be uty f . h a ar th e prospect The igh ro d , as as Avignon , lies along

of side the river, which runs almost in a straight line , and ’ flo d for a r s . a great convenience inland commerce Tr vellers , n a of i bound to the souther p rts France , generally embark n. ‘ cache d eau h the at Lyons , and glide down this river wit as of s great velocity , p sing a great number towns and village on d each si e, where they find ordinaries every day at dinner and s in h upper . In good weather there is no danger t is method f t o e l ou c S . e trav lling , til y ome to the Pont Esprit , wher u the stream r ns through the arches with such rapidity , that h the boat is some times overset . But t ose passengers who

and are under any apprehension are landed above the bridge ,

in a f e th e b h as a e taken ag in , a t r oat passed , just in the s m a manner as at London bridge . The bo ts that go up the m h m river are drawn against the strea by oxen , w ich swi

ne of a of through o the rches this bridge , the driver sitting

o t f m between the horns of the foremost beast . We set u ro

on n Lyons early Monday morning , and as a robbery had bee w f d or a fe days be ore committed in that neighbourhoo , I dered my servant to load my musquetoon with a charge of

- - b not f t a the . B eight balls y the y, this piece did ail to at r ct curiosity and admiration of the people in every place through Th which we passed . e carriage no sooner halted , than a crowd immediately surrounded the man to View the blunder

h of etit ca n on . A t buss , whic they signified with the title p th e e Nuys in Burgundy , he fired it in the air, and whol

d and d off of . In mob ispersed, scampere like a flock sheep u we n set out n n at our jo rney hither, ge erally in a mor i g R S T RO R E I 328 T AVEL H UGH F ANC AND TALY .

’ e e the ight o clock , and travell d till noon , when mules were of u put up and rested a couple hours . D ring this halt, h f f Josep went to dinner, and we went to break ast, a ter

for our f i n which we ordered provision re reshment the coach ,

or f f n a which we took about three our in the a ternoo , h lting for s of a h that purpo e by the side some transp rent brook , whic ff a orded excellent water to mix with our wine . In this country

I was almost poisoned with garlic, which they mix in their

a l of f r gouts , and all their sauces ; nay , the smel it per umes

s as a . the very chamber , as well every person you appro ch I w as s ick of beca eas r ieves also very fl , g , and other little da on birds , which are served up twice a y at all ordinaries l a . a a the ro d They m ke their appear nce in Vin e eaves , and f se are always hal raw , in which condition the French choo to run of eat them , rather than the risk losing the juice by

- over roasting . in of The peasants the south France are poorly clad , and if f an d look as they were hal starved , diminutive, swarthy , : meagre and yet the common people who travel , live luxu r iousl - y on the road . Every carrier and mule driver has of of two meals a day , consisting each a couple courses and t a dessert, with tolerable small wine . Tha which is called her mita e of g , and grows in this province Dauphine , is sold on n the spot for three livres a bottle . The commo draught ou which y have at meals in this country is remarkably strong, f though in fl avour much inferior to that o Burgundy . The n in accommodatio is tolerable , though they demand (even this cheap coun try) the exorbitant price of four livres a- head for of every meal , those who choose to eat in their own apart m ments . I insisted, however, upon paying the with three , h which they received , thoug not without murmuring and f of c . I n seeming dis ontented this journey , we ound plenty m good mutton , pork , poultry , and ga e, including the red of partridge, which is near twice as big as the partridge

England . The hares are likewise surprisingly large and juicy . w f We sa great flocks of black turkeys eeding in the fields , no but black cattle ; and milk was so scarce, that sometimes we were obliged to drink tea without it . 3g h A S TR VEL THROUGH FRANCE A ND ITALY .

da w on of One y, perceiving a meado the side the road, f of a h d ull flower whic I took to be the crocus , I esired my a h d a an of . serv nt to lig t , pull some them He delivered the o h musqueto n to Josep , who began to tamper with it , and

off u a m an e ch o it went with a prodigio s report , ug ented, by fr a om the mount ins that skirte d the road . The mules were

f a off an d so rightened , th t they went at the gallop Joseph , for t n some minu es , could neither manage the reins nor ope

. f an d a his mouth At leng th he recollected himsel , the c ttle

d the of the a to were stoppe , by assistance serv nt , whom he d a of the elivered the musquetoon , with significant shake

h . l f m box be a a ead Then a ighting ro the , ex mined the he ds

f his o an d a of . three mules , kissed e ch them in his turn

h a d a a u Finding they received no d m ge , he came p to the

a a an d a and co ch , with a p le visage st ring eyes , said it was ’ h ad a a God s mercy he not killed his beasts . I nswered th t i t w as a grea ter mercy he h ad not killed his p assengers ; for the muzzle of the piece might have been directed our way as ,

a s an well y other , and in that case Joseph might have been ’ a for d h d . a he h nged mur er I as good hanged , said he, ” for h as the of a . s murder, be ruined by loss my c ttle T i a m c an b e re dventure ade su h impression upon him , that counted i t to every person we met nor would he ever touch

n f a f the blu derbuss rom th t day . I was o ten diverted with

of f w and the conversation this ello , who was very arch very f communicative . Every a ternoon he used to stand upon the f - b a t of a an d us oot oard , the side the co ch , discourse with

. of a h an hour together Passing by the gibbet V lencia , whic

a s aw one h stands very ne r the high road , we body anging

a d . re quite n ke , and another lying broken on the wheel I

a h ad ff a a collected , that M ndrin su ered in this pl ce , and c ll

f - a a if had ing to Joseph to mount the oot bo rd , sked he ever seen th a t famous adventurer ? At mention of the n ame of ‘ ’ lvIan drin th e a a os e h s ha 3. , te r st rted i n J p eye , he disc rged

a w as his d deep sigh , or rather gro n , and told me he ear

d a h e f . a riend I was a little st rtled at this eclar tion owev r ,

a sk I concealed my thoughts , and began to questions about the character and exploits of a man wh o h ad made such noise i n the world .

32 6 S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

f f rom court to bring him to his trial , when he was ound

guilty, and condemned to he broke upon the wheel . Joseph s aid he drank a bottle of wine with him the night before his

e . fa h observ xecution He bore his te wit great resolution , i n if had g , that, the letter which he had written to the king n he a d bee delivered , certainly should have obt ine his ma ’

e s t s . one of own j y pardon His executioner was his gang , who was pardoned on condition of performing thi s ofli ce . Y ou know th a t criminals broke upon the wheel are first s he trangled, unless the sentence imports , that they shall f in broke alive . As Mandrin had not been guilty o cruelty of d the course his elinquency, he was indulged with this f f avour . Speaking to the executioner whom he had ormer l dit il as y commanded , Joseph ( je) ne veux p que tu me ’ ’— t us u a cc e s f . ouche, j q que j soi roid mort Joseph , (said he ) , thou shalt not touch me till I am quite dead . Our d no n was river had sooner pronounced these words , tha I f struck with a suspicion , that he himsel was the executioner of f his riend Mandrin . On that suspicion , I exclaimed , f w ah ah Joseph The ello blushed up to the eyes, and

s oui s on nom étoit Jose h a uss i bien ue le mien . aid , , p q I did not think proper to prosecute the inquiry : but did not m ’ uch relish the nature of J os eph s connections . The truth had of r uffian is , he very much the looks a ; though I must w o n v and . , his beha iour was very obliging submissive

O n fif da of our in the th y journey , the morning, we t fa S . . passed the mous bridge at Esprit , which to be sure is a

f of great curiosity , rom its length , and the number its arches

' but these arches are too small ; the passage above is too nar r ow and ; the whole appears to be too slight , considering f f e the orce and impetuosity o the river . I t is not comparabl

for a or . to the bridge at Westminster, either be uty solidity

o and our Here we entered Langued c, were stopped to have baggage examined : but the searcher being tipt with a

- it . f three livre piece , allowed to pass Be ore we leave Dau

phine, I must observe, that I was not a little surprised to see

. figs and chesnuts growing in the open fields , at the disere n of e e w fa s tio v ry passenger . It was this day I sa the mou 392 T RAVEL S TH ROUGH F R ANCE AND ITALY . 7

t du o i n P ou Garde ; but as I cannot p ssibly include, this d of a f of letter, a escription that be uti ul bridge , and the n n f other a tiquities belongi g to Nismes , I will de er it till the b a i n ext opportunity , eing , in the m e nt me, with equal truth

nd ff . a a ection , dear sir, your obliged humble servant

T LET ER X .

R I Mont elli r N ov. 0 D E A S R , p e . 1 , 1 763.

‘ we BY the Fon t S . Esprit entered the province of Langu e fa a w r doc, and break sted at B gnole , hich is a little palt y t f own , rom whence , however, there is an excellent road t u hro gh a mountain , made at a great expense , and extend

i n f . o five f g about our leagues Ab ut in the a ternoon , I had the of fa du a first glimpse the mous Pont Garde , which st nds on h n of f the right and , about the dista ce a league rom the m a f . post road to Nis es , and about three le gues rom that city

I would“ not willi ngly pass for a false enthusi ast in taste ; f s w but I cannot help observing, that rom the fir t distant Vie of a this noble m onument , till we came ne r enough to see it

f f of a i a t per ectly , I elt the strongest emotions imp t ence th I h ad ever known ; and oblige d our driver to put his mules to th e f da ull gallop , in the apprehension that it would be rk before we reached the place . I expected to find the build

was ab dis a ing , in some measure , ruinous ; but agree ly p ' to f as e W e pointed see it look as resh the bridg at estminst r .

r so or f e - s The climate is eithe pure and dry , the r e tone , with w l s o d a l of hich it is bui t , har , that the very ng es them re if had u n o t . mai as acute as they been last year Indeed , s ome large stone s have d ropped out of the arches ; but the d h whole is a mirably preserved, and presents the eye wit a of ffe and piece architecture so una ctedly elegant , so _ simple a f i m jestic, that I will de y the most phlegmat c and stupid in s pe ctator to behold it without admir ation . It was raised n a e b of is me s con the Augusti e g , y the Roman colony N , to ve m of a e tw o for of y a strea w ter b tween mountains , the use

t . d a hat city It stands over the river Gar on , which is bean t f a f m a i ul pastoral stream , br wling among rocks , which or n m r of s ad on u be pretty natural ca c es, and overshadowed 828 A S U N A D TR VEL THRO GH FRA CE N ITALY .

and the each side with trees shrubs , which greatly add to

of . rural beauties the scene I t rises in the Cevennes , and

of a f the sand it produces gold , as we le rn rom Mr Reaumur, s on th e in his es ay this subject , inserted in French Memoirs , f or 1 1 8 . If a t or n the year 7 I lived Nismes , Avig on

t Wi f u of (which las city is thin our short leag es it) , I should

f a take pleasure in orming p rties to come hither , in summer, t o one of of du on dine under the arches the Pont Garde, a cold collation .

of or of one This work consists three bridges , tire arches ,

t of six th e of above ano her ; the first , second eleven , and

of - the third thirty six . The height , comprehending the a on a s 1 4: f e queduct the top , mount to 7 eet thre inches ; the

a t length between the two mount ins , which it unites , ex ends t o 2 7 3 . The order of architecture is the Tuscan ; but the s o a of ymmetry of it is inconceivable . By sco ping the b ses

a of the of the pil sters second tire arches , they had made a pass age for foot travellers : but though the ancients far ex us f of s celled in beauty , they certainly ell short the modern f of . o in in point conveniency The citizens Avignon have , a ne w this p rticular, improved the Roman work with a bridge

a on of by pposition , constructed the same plan with that the of of be lower tire arches, which , indeed , it seems to a part ,

ff a a a ording broad and commodious pass ge over the river ,

and of . a for to horses carriages all kinds The queduct, the

of w as continuance which this superb work raised , conveyed a a of f f of stre m sweet water rom the ountain Eure, near the f o e s a l n t . city Uz , and extended near six le gues in e g h In a ou of a an pproaching Nismes , y see the ruins Rom on of tower, built the summit a hill , which overlooks the

. to e or city It seems have b en intended at first, as a watch

u i n u f . signal tower , tho gh , the seq el , it was used as a ortress

W hat remains of it is abou t ninety feet high ; the ar chitec‘ of ture the Doric order . I no sooner alighted at the inn ,

w a a an than I was presented ith a p mphlet , cont ining ac c of and a ount Nismes its ntiquities , which every stranger

are a to buys . There persons , too , who ttend , in order s hew the t own ; and you will al ways be accos ted by some

380 S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

over this vast canal . I t contains a grea t body of excellent

a w ter , which , by pipes and other small branching canals , ff traverses the town , and is converted to many di erent pur f poses o economy and manufacture . Between the Roman bath and these grea t canals the ground is agreeably laid out i n a for of a e ple sure walks , the recreation the inhabit nts Her

of h are likewise ornaments architecture . which savour muc more of French foppery than of the simplicity and greatness n a f of the ancients . It is very surprisi g th t this ountain should produce such a gr ea t body of water as fills the bason of the source , the Roman bason , two large deep canals three hun d f a of the red eet in length , two v st basons that make part a a h e f n n gre t can l , whic is eighteen hundr d eet lo g , eightee

f - s w f f . a eet deep , and orty eight eet broad When I it, there or f of a e was in it about eight nine eet water, transp r nt as a for of cryst l . It must be observed , however , the honour

a h French cleanliness , th t , in the Roman bason , through whic Of n this noble stream water passes , I perceived two washerwome ’ at work upon children s clouts and dirty linen . Surprised

and much disgusted at this filthy phenomenon , I asked by

a n wh t means , and by whose permissio , those dirty hags had to o r got down into the bason , in order c ntaminate the wate

at its fountain - head ? and understood they belonged to the a of of s ubter command nt the place, who had the keys the

ranean passage . Fronting the Roman baths ar e the ruins of an ancient

to a d ed t o temple , which , according tr dition , was edicat se all Diana : but it has been observed by connois urs, that the ancient temples of this goddess were of the Ionic order ; It whereas this is partly Corinthian and partly Composi te .

f - - is about seventy eet long , and six and thirty in breadth ,

of a of arched above , and built l rge blocks stone, exactly

joined together without any cement . The walls are still h f standing, wit three great tabernacles at the urther end , a n the fronting the entr nce . On each side there are iches in

- of a a inter columniation the w lls , together with pedest ls and f of a sha ts pillars , cornices , and an entabl ture , which indi e f fi o I w s de cat the ormer magni cence f the building . t a R S 381 T AVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . s troyed during the civil war that rag ed in the reign of Henry

. of I II France .

a i of It is am zing , that the successive rruptions barbarous n of a of f ations, Goths , Vand ls , and Moors , anatic croisades , s i and ha ia t ll more sanguinary illiberal t n those barbar ns , s t l hould have spared this emple , as well as two other stil m of r more noble onuments architectu e , that to this day a dorn the city of Nismes : I mean the amphitheatre and

Ma is on a r r é f o d . f the edifice calle C e. The ormer these is o of now c unted the finest monument the kind extant , and

n of was built in the reig Antoninus Pius , who contributed a f a f large sum O money tow rds its erection . It is o an ova l fi one f f ca gure, thousand and eighty eet in circum erence,

i us pac o enough to hold twenty thousand spectators . The of f architecture is the Tuscan order , sixty eet high , com of e one posed two open gall ries built over another, consist ing each of threescore arcades . The entrance into the arena

f s co of was by our great gate , with porti s ; and the seats , e on e o t which there wer thirty , rising ab ve another, consis f e d Of of o o . great blocks st ne, many which still remain alt r elieve Over the north gate appear two bulls , in o , ex tremel l y wel executed ; emblems which , according to the f a custom o the Romans , signified that the mphitheatre was i e re cted at the expense of the people . There are n other

of in bus r eli e a parts it some work f ; and he ds or busts but a i n a of indifferently carved . It st nds the lower p rt the

h and . to wn , and strikes the spectator wit awe veneration The external architecture is almost entire in its whole cir

cuit ; but the arena is filled up with houses . This amphi f l in be theatre was ortified as a citade by the Visigoths , the x ginning Of the si th century . They raised within it a castle , two towers of which are still extant ; and they surrounded it f with a broad and deep osse , which was filled up in the h thirteenth century . In all the subsequent wars to which t is of th e z city was exposed , it served as the last resort citi ens , and sustained a great number of successive attacks ; so tha t ' l i ts preservation is almost miraculous . It is ikely , however , to s uffer much more from the Gothic avarice of its ow n 339. TRAVEL S T HROUGH FRANC E AND ITALY.

of a for the citizens , some whom are mutil ting it every day,

a of ow n e s ke the stones , which they employ in their privat ' h buildings . It is surprisin g th at the kings a uthority as n ot been exerted to put an end to such s acrilegi ous violation . If a r ou an of a the amphithe t e strikes y with idea gre tness, the Ma is on Ca r r ée enchants you with the most exquisite

of beauties architecture and sculpture . This is an edifice , u f ac s pposed ormerly to have been erected by Adrian , who tuall a a of y built b silica in this city , though no vestiges it

a : f rem in but the ollowing inscription , which was discover e d on the f of b the ront it , plainly proves , that it was built y

of Nisme s of ai ae inhabitants , in honour C ns and Lucius C sar,

a Of uha the the gr ndchildren Augustus, by his daughter J , w f of r i e Ag ippa .

C . CAE S A B I . A V GV ST L F . C OS .

L . C A B SAR L A V GV S TI . F . C O S.

D E S I G N A TO .

’ I RI N C [ FIBV S l V V E N TV Tl So

e fu u This b auti l edifice , which stands pon a pediment six f - t wo f - fiv e d eet high , is eighty eet long, thirty broa , and

- t . hirty seven high , without reckoning the pediment The body of it is adorned with twenty columns engaged in the

a and h w ll , the peristyle, w ich is open , with ten detached of pillars that support the entablature . They are all the

a flutted i of Corinthi n order , and embellished with cap tals the m ost exquisite sculpture : the frize and corni ce are much a d f and e . mired , the oliage is steemed inimitable The pro o s of a p rtion the building are so h ppily united , as to give it a n of a and ff air m jesty grandeur, which the most indi erent ee spectator cannot behold without em otion . A man n ds not

be a e . a connoisseur in rchitecture , to enjoy these b auties are ma They , indeed , so exquisite , that you y return to them every d ay with a fresh appetite for s even years to

. W i gether hat renders them the more cur ous , they are still e aff of ntire , and very little ected , either by the ravages time ,

or of . a a the havoc war Cardin l Alberoni decl red , that it w as a jewel that deserved a cover O f gold to preserve it from ex a e . n i e s m l tern l injuri s An Italia pa nter, p rceiving a al

4: S T O R I 33 T RAVEL HR UGH F ANCE AND TALY .

ff ~ tacks accordingly . They a ect to believe that all the tra t of our a S velle s country are gr nd igniors, immensely rich , and incredibly generous ; and we are silly enough to en

courage this opinion , by submitting quietly to the most ri di lous of the cu extortion , as well as by committing acts f of to most absurd extravagance . This olly the English ,

e of f ff t a gether with a concours people rom di eren qu rters ,

for - of has who come hither the re establishment their health , r endere d Montpellier one of the dearest places in the south

of . France The city , which is but small, stands upon a n f d h t risi g ground ronting the Me iterranean , whic is abou three leagues to the southward : on the other side is an e i the agreeable plain , xtend ng about same distance towards

of w th e mountains the Cevennes . The to n is reckoned well u bien er cée b ilt , and what the French call p yet the streets

n a . air are in general arrow , and the houses d rk The is ed in f m dr count salutary catarrhous consumptions , ro its y ness and elasticity ; but too sharp in cases of pulmonary im

posthumes . was s aw for I t at Montpellier that we , the first time , any s igns of that gaiety and mirth for which the people of this

country are celebrated . In all o ther places through which our f s aw we passed since departure rom Lyons , we nothing

of and Mon t el but marks poverty chagrin . We entered p on e lier a Sunday , when the peopl were all dressed in their

best apparel . The streets were crowded , and a great num ber of the better sort of both sexes s at upon stone seats at

f t . their doors , conversing with great mirth and amiliari y These conversations lasted th e greatest part of the night ; and many of them were improved with music bOth vocal and t instrumental . Nex day we were visi t ed by the English d w f t resi ing in the place, who al ays pay this mark o respec

- new . Of f or f a to comers They consist our five amilies , mong m r if of who I could pass the winter ve y agreeably , the state

my health and other reasons did not call me away . L f h Mr had arrived two days be ore me , troubled wit the same asthmatic disorder under which I had laboured s o

long . H e told me he had been in ques t of me ever since he R S T H O R T AVEL R UGH F ANCE AND ITALY. 335

f E . f le t ngland Upon comparing notes , I ound he had stop

e d of inn in n p at the door a country Picardy , and dra k a of glass win e and water, while I was at dinner up stairs ; na he e w o w y , had even spok to my servant , and asked h as the not w his master ; and man knowing him , replied , he as a gentleman from Chelsea . He had walked by the door of th e house where I lodged at Paris twenty times while I was in that city ; and the very day before he arrived at Mont

ie h ad our pell r he passed coach on the road . a o of of two one of The g rris n this city consists battalions, w the of hich is Irish regiment Berwick , commanded by

n - Lieute ant colonel Tents , a gentleman with whom we con tracted an acquaintan ce at Boulogne . He treats us with great politeness , and indeed does every thing in his power

to . of FitZ A J ames make the place agreeable to us The duke ,

th e n in . e gover or, is expected here a little time We hav already a tolerable concert twi ce a - Week ; there will be a comedy in the Wi nter ; and the states of Provence assemble in January ; so that Montpellier will be extremely g ay and me to brilliant . These very circumstances would determine

t to s : leave it . I have n ot heal h enjoy the e pleasures I can t of us un no bear a crowd company , such as pours in upon f a a at expecte dly at all hours ; and I oresee , th t, in st ying

be can ill Montpellier , I should led into an expense which I

f f a f om afford . I have there ore orw rded the letter I received r Mr B our f General P n to d , consul at Nice , signi ying f of my intention o going thither , and explaining the kind accommodation I would choose to have at that place .

af our o d s The day ter arrival , I pr cured tolerable lo ging for ft in the high street , which I pay fi y sols , something more tha n two shillings pe r day ; and I am furnished with two meals a- day by a tr a iteur for ten livr es ; but he finds neither the wine nor th e desse rt ; and indeed we are but ia f differently se rved . Those amilies who reside here find their E to account in keeping hou se . very traveller who comes this or any other tow n in France with a design to stay long e r a r wo f ha cor th n a day o t , ought to write be ore nd to his s f n lod ln s re pondent to procure ur ished g g , to which he mav G R 336 T RAVELS T HROU H F A NCE A N D ITALY.

e of be driven immediately , without being under the nec ssity lying in an execrable inn ; for all the inns Of this country

are execrable . My baggage is not yet arrived by the canal of Lang ue doc ; but that gives me no disturbance, as it is consigned

t o of a n e a of the care Mr Ray , English m rch nt and banker

a of a and f m this place ; a gentlem n gre t probity worth , ro w hom I have received repeated marks of uncommon friend

ship and hospitality .

The next time you hear of me will be from Nice . Mean ff e while, I remain always , dear sir, your a ectionate humbl s ervant .

LETTE R XI .

T R ont llier N ov 1 . DE AR D OC O , M p e , . 2 I FLATTERED myself with the hope of much amusement dur

m a . i bo ing y short st y at Montpellier The univers ty , the tanical a of of g rden , the state physic in this part the world , and the information I received of a curious collection of for manuscripts, among which I hoped to find something our friend Dr H r ; all these particulars promised a rich

f of a . und entertainment , which , however, I c nnot enjoy

fe f a A wdays a ter my arrival , it began to rain with south e n a of rly wi d , and continued without ceasing the best p rt a

h w as week , leaving the air so loaded with vapours , t at there no f - de w walking a ter sun set , without being wetted by the almost to the skin . I have always found a cold and d amp

nfa of an atmosphere the most u vourable y to my constitution . s h My a thmatical disorder, which had not given me muc f disturbance since I le t Boulogne , became now very trouble f of some , attended with ever, cough , spitting , and lowness i spirits ; and I wasted v sibly every day . I was favoured w of e ith the advice Dr Fitzmaurice , a very worthy sensibl physician , settled in this place : but I had the curiosity to know the opinion of the celebrated Professor F who is a of f the Boerh ave Montpellier . The account I had o his private character and personal deportment from some English e f to peopl to whom he was well known , le t me no desire

A D 338 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE N ITALY .

l m a : xcr tio sine ructu perfecta . Al v us p e ru que stipat e e intesti

lis im a a in estorum h ab a. fre uen s a n a min , r tione g it Pulsus q , v cil

an e xilis uan do uide m am n . l s , , q q eti i termittens

b un aextin cta non fi a a . A lia ue e t a sta Fe re , de cit lter q e dem

i hum idior ve s time ntum tim n ascitur . au fri dior Aer p lo g , vel ,

itatum in dutum e xerci tio aululum a a b ula inus ; ta p nimi ; m tio , uitatio in uovis vehiculo a a h a a e q , q j ct tio ; ec omni novos motus b a m a a . S m a r m m ax m a suscit nt yste ne vosu i e irrit ile , org s os p ti

ur O stiola in hiantia m ate rie i ers irabili exitum e t . cute , p p pr e

n Ma rie s Ob s tructa cumulatur an u n a claudu tur . te be ti , ; s g ine a u a m aliis que h umorib us circumagitur : fit plethora . N t r Oppri i

e xce s sus h u us ex ulsione m conatur . b a acce n nolens , j p Fe ris nov

a on er is in m e mb ranam trach aealem laxatam ac h ditur . P rs de ili

lan dulze ituitariae h ta tum tran sfertur . G p turgentes bronc ia

' b ae a n e atur h r ir i comprimunt . Li er ri tr nsitus g ; ine e sp at o di ffi l i f minui r in r i H ac verO tran s at one b tu : te d u . eilis . , e ris remittitur

D s n aea a m alia ue s m tom ata h h a a y p ute q y p veré ypoc ondri c , rece

n olunt . V f b e xacerb atur . . a in uietudo dere espere e ris C lor, q ,

anxie tas e t a h a er n octem ras santur . Ita i i st m , p g quotid e res ag

vis a aulatim crisim e fli cit . Se minis a r a tur, donec vit e p j ctu , sive

in s omniis ff in mi e aculati a e usi, seu gre o veneris j , inter c usas

horum m alorum n ee non num eretur .

uib usdam abhin c a e xe rcitationib us uve nilibus ub Q nnis, j s ito

rernis sis in am s e de ntariam la s um . n m i n u ia se ve riora , vit p A i o st d

fib rae a a laxabantur . n le e ndum e t s crib e n converso , gr d tim I ter g

in m r in n i dum in clinato corpore pectus ma l u ueb at . Morbo grue t

i b u a au ium u i Inv as io m a n imi m affe ct o scor tic xil t l t . pri u asper

Ve n ie ntib us hostibus occursum . Cun ctando n on n ata . non res

m c nv e nie n tia s tomach us e rh rr s restituta . Re edia o p o e ceb at .

mi f u r Grav e s ce nte dyspnoea phleb oto a r st a tentata . Sanguinis

v is Vitm m a : fi eb at debilior re s iratio diffi missione di inut pulsus , p

i r In u ruunt a . b a a a in febriculam cil o . pej s omni Fe ris nom l

D S n aea confi rm a . Fi r rum m a continuam m utata . y p ta b a co p ges

V l u en itus v r sa . sol uta . a et do p e e

H is a itatus furiis ae ad a r ovola t : in fluctus rm g , ger m re p se p

ci ite m dat : um fa u s em non fefe llit : de cie s ite ratum p pericul ct m p ,

~ v E f n cili ur . h felix faus tumque e a sit . l ater novus ebris co at Fe ri

i l i n i d s o v ur . fi m cul a fugatur . Acr s yspn oea t Be e c u dextra ripa

a m n a erdit um . Su e rfi cie a ua: a a: p rtu , si istr p p corporis , q m rin fri ore e t m a e t a a a fibrarum oc g pondere , co press contr ct , interstiti S T O H A TRAVEL HR UG FR NCE AND ITALY. 339 clud untur : articulis m n n a ab a a reficie n tib us p incre e ti ovis p rtes r s s ,

u n on a a . Nutritio v ia n a a a ua loc s d t r corporis , pristi cl us , q data porta ruit : in m embra n am pulmonum minus fi rm atam facile fertur e t landulis e r um r e i citur . , g p sput j Hiem s pluviosaregnante dolores r e novantur ; t ametsi tempore n i i fEstate b u vix u m r s ere e e q u tatio profu t . mor s llu p ogre dieba

u f A utum no a i i a a h r Bath oni e n si t r , v letud ne plus decl n t , t e mis

bus a m h a n d f r a a m . a a mire i a a sol tiu rust qu esitu Aqu ist med c t ,

e a ac n adh ibita a le vam e n attulit . extern que i terné , m lis Hiems

a a f a ho a di a in a ta m e n s ucce ssit. V lter , rigid , rrid , uturn , nocu ere

a a atrox a a a immisit : a nov c sus dir s procell s nimo toto corpore , tot li ris i i li i tum ultuatur. a a r e cta t t t a s o c tudo i na mente P tri , , , ndig tio , imi i e t s eviss ima re cbrdatio sequuntur . In ci priores fiIr ore nve ter r v r n Re diit f b h e ctica re dii t a hma anxi ato e e tu tur . e ris ; st cum e

a e t a a a . t te, tusse, delore l teris l ncin nte

De s eratis de n i ue b r m ad a v e luti ad a p q re us , ite u m re , nceps

i m r rr i r Ba m h oc b m . D remed u e cu tu . lneu semper enignu olor

a m av l T di e f b retr oce s sit . Imm e rs io i a st ti o at. ertio e ris quotid na a a a ad uin ua inta re e tita s mtomata a i ntemeridi n , vices q q g p , y gr v

O ra vi - a ab a a : a s ubjuga t . M net vero t es pituit ri m net tempera

m in a rrh s i . r m acr s ci V mentu c ta o procl ve Co pus e t . ires dela ’

b un tur .

' The professor s eyes sparkled at sight of the fee ; and he desired the ser vant to call next morning for his opinion of

i n the case, which accordingly I received these words

O n voit par cette rela tion que monsieur le consultant dont on ’ ’ n a as a i a a aroit p jugé propos de d re l ge , m is qui nous p etre ’ a e t a e a ab a a a ci a a dulte d un g p ss lement v ncé , été sujet dev nt des rhumes fre q ue n s accompagnés de fi evr e : onne detaille point aucune ’ on a a la a n d asthme a il a epoque , p rle d ns rel tio uquel été sujet, b a ff i de scor ut ection Scorbutique dont on me d t pas les symptom e s . ’ ’ ’ O n nous fait s cavoir qu il s est bien trouvé de l imm e rsion dans ’ au la e t a Ba h . l e de mer, des e ux de t ’ O n dit a present qu il a une fi evre p ituita ire sans dire depuis ’ b n m e n com ien de temps . Q u il lui reste toujours s o tempera ent

n aux catha rre s . ue le r a e t f cc cli Q co ps m igrit , que les orces ’ r pe dent . O n ne di t point s il y a de s exacerb ations dans cette ’ f v on Si le a a a a on s il o n ie re non , m l de ppetit non , tousse non , ’ ’ s il a h on un on u r au un d a ces cr c e non , en mot n e t e dans c et il sur 340 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE AND ITALY .

b u le n m u le O jets, sur q oi co seil soussigné , esti e que monsie r con

s ultan t e n fi n e t r a mb ab le ff est evre le te , que v ise l le poumon sou re

d e u ub u ui n - n e n f n ce ue s quelq e t erc les q pe t etre so t o te, q nou a urions determiné Si dans la rel ation on avoit marque les qualités d h e cra c ats . La cause fonch ere de cette maladie doit etre imputée a une

m h e ais s e et a m e nn a a b ly p e p cri oni use, qui do e occ sion des tu er

u au m ui etan t mi s f foru nis s en t a u a c les pou on , q en onte s ng des ar u p tic les a cres e t le rendent tout a crim onieux .

’ Le s vii e s que l on doit avoir dans ce cas sont de procur er des bonnes dig estions (quoique dans la rel ation on n e dit pas un mot sur les di gestions) de jetter nu douce d e tre mpe dans le m a sse d u ’ ’ ’ s an d e n h a l acrim oni e t l adoucir i f g , c sser e de , de div ser ort

m la h e t le um lui a douce ent lymp e, de deterger po on , procur nt ’ m du a m la l in uie te a me e c l e supposé que toux q , quoique cepend nt ’ l u on ne di t pas un mot s ur la toux dans a rel ation . C est po r u le u a a 3 one e s a a un r q oi on p rger vec de m nne , dissoutes d ns ve re 3 dra m e s h on a a e n de decoction de g de polypode de c esne, p sser u a b ui fa a nu l la h a s ite des ouillons q seront its vec petit pou et, c ir, ’ le a le e t le f a s ng , coeur oye d une tortue de gr ndeur mediocre a du 8 a 1 2 a s a i st dire poid de onces vec coqu lle , une poignée h a a e t une f de c icorée mere de j rdin, pincée de euilles de lierre

rr a 1 a te estre vertes ou seches . Ay nt pris ces bouillons 5 m tins on

u a mm au a a a b ui se p rger co e p r vant , pour en venir des ouillons q ’ fa a la m d un ii au im seront its vec oitié mo de ve , une poignée de p ’

re n e lle a et une dr a m e a n d an e li ue a . p de j rdin , g de r ci e g q conc ssée A a b 1 5 a on u a e y nt pris ces ouillons m tins, se p rger comm ’ ’ a uparavant pour en venir au l ait d ane s s e q ue l on prendra le matin a jeun a la dose de 1 2 a 1 6 onces y ajoutant un cuillerée de

u ra e on ren ch a ce a le a n a u b a n s cre p , p l it m ti je n , o serv nt de pre dre ’ pendant son usage de deux jours 1 un moment avant le l ait un b u fa a 1 5 a a B a n 2 0 ol s it vec gr ins de cr ye de ri nco en poudre fine , ’ ra n a re are 8 a n d antihe cti ue ote rius e t g i s de cor il p p , gr i s q de p ,

c e u ll fau a u ou on n e q t de syrop de lierre terrestre, m is les jo r prendra pa s le b olus on prendra un mom ent avant le l ait 3 on 4 gouttes de b on b aume de Canada de trempée s dan s un demi cuil

e s r r Si le r a u e n ler e de e p de lierre te rest e . co ps m igrit de pl s

’ ’ ’ lus e a ue n a n u d u a d nn p , j suis d vis q pe d t l sage l it a e s s e on soupe

tous les soirs avec une s oupe au l ait de vache .

342 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE A N D ITALY .

’ ’ tion au memoire de m a santé que jai e u l h on ne ur de lui present ’ e1* Monsieur le consultan t (dit il) dont on n a pas j ugé a pro ’ — l i . a a e e a NO . 2 pa s de d re l age M is on voit d ns m moire ,

A nn um mtatis p ost q ua dr ag es imum te rti um. ’ dit e n ai as a u . Mons . F que j p m rqué aucune epoq e

il . uibus da m a a NO . 2 du m a M is , me oire trouver ces mots Q ' ’ m a e l ro rés la a adi a bli znc ( ma is . J ai me e det ill e p g de m l e pour

trois an s cons e cutifs . O n ne dit s il a e xace r . F b r Mons O se ve, point y des ” ’ la B il fi vr . a bations dans cette e e ou non Q u il reg rde lettre ,

a Ves er e ebr is exa ce r ba tur . Ca lor i n uieta do a nxieta s verr , p f , q , ” et a stlzma p e r n octem g r a s s a ntur . i l a a a a t . F a O n ne d t e Mons rem rque, point si m l de ppeti ’ ’ ’ n s il on s il a h on nu n e ntre o non , tousse non , cr c e non , en mot on ” n circon dans aucun detail sur ces Objets . Mais o voit toutes ces ’ an detaillée s a le m a Ir r itatio onembr a n w st ces d ns emoire lettre A,

’ tr a chcea lzs tus sim i nitio a r ida m s ili uos a m deinde 116 7 0 excr eti , , g ,

mill mum. A e onem cup ios a m e xcita t. Sp utuma l bumini ovi s i i pp

e ti i . titus Ta r o deest. Dig s o s eg n or s ed s ecum ’ un . b u n ne dit as Mons F O serve encore , q o p mot sur ”

x a la a . a ai dit a NO . 3 la tou d ns rel tion M is j encore , de me

r ediit ebr is hectica r edzit a sthma cum a nxieta te moire , j , tusse, ”

et dolor e la ter is la n ci na nte .

’ e n e as a u ait ub Au reste , j puis p me persu der q il y des t er ’ au a ai a a a h us n i a cules poumon , p rce que j ne j m is cr c é de p , utre ch ose que de la pituite q ui a beaucoup de ressemb lance au b l anc

f . S utum a l mini i l z 11 aroit des oeu s p bu ov s imi limzm . me p donc ’ que m a ma ladi e doit s on origin e a la suspension de l exe rcis e da ’ c r au r a a a h m e t a un Vie s e de ntaire o ps , g nde tt c e ent d esprit, qui ’ ’ a rel a che le s is te m e fib re ux ; e t q u a present on peut l appeller — ’ ta bes ituita r ia non ta bes ur ulenta . J e s ere . p , p p que Mons F ’ a a la b fa du m et ur onté de ir revision me oire, de m en dire encore ’ son sentiment .

of cas e ou Considering the nature the , y see I could not

treat him more civilly . I desired the servant to ask when

for an w he should return ans er, and whether he expected fe e ? another He desired him to come next morning , and ,

f a as the ellow assured me, gave him to understand , th t , w s s for hatever monsieur might end, hould be his (the ser 343 TRAVEL S THROUGH F R ANCE AND ITALY .

’ n ot ano vant s) advantage . In all probability he did expect

ther gratification , to which indeed he had no title . Mons . F was undoubtedly much m ortified to find himself de tected i n a of fi such fl grant instances unjusti able negligence,

and , like all other persons in the same ungracious dilemma,

Of f f s or . instead justi ying himsel by rea on argument, had re

course to recrimination . In the paper which he sent me

in a f next day , he insisted general , th t he had care ully per

ou f- used the case, which , y will perceive , was a sel evident untruth ; he said the theory it contained was idle ; that he n was sure it could not be writte by a physician ; that , with of a respect to the disorder, he was still the s me opinion ; and a dhered to his former prescription ; but if I had any

doubts , I might come to his house, and he would resolve

them . in f and t I wrapt up twelve livres the ollowing note, sen

it to his house .

’ ’ Ce n e st pas sans raison que monsieur F jouit d un si ’

an a . Je n ai t a a D et gr de reput tion plus de dou es, gr ces ieu a ’ Monsieur F e .

TO this I received for answer

’ ’ R z Monsieur n a pl us de doutes : J e u suis charmé . ecen dou e

livres . F &c.

of to Instead keeping his promise the valet , he put the i n f money his pocket ; and the ellow returned in a rage , ex

un r os cheval de ca r cas e . claiming, that he was g I shall make no other comment upon the medicines and th e regimen which this great doctor prescribed , but that he certainly mistook the case : for upon the supposition that I actually l aboured under a purulent discharge from the

of old lungs, his remedies savour strongly the woman ; and that there is a total blank with respect to the article of e x ercis e ou w a , which y kno is so essential in all pulmon ry

. af disorders But , ter having perused my remarks upon

his first prescription , he could not possibly suppose that

: f I had tubercles , and was spitting up pus there ore his per sisting in recommending the same medicines he had pre scrib S 344: TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY .

f on a . If or ed that supposition was a flagr nt absurdity , ex

v mi ca and s ample , there was no o in the lungs , the busines

r e os was to attenuate the lymph , what could be more p p

terous of Brian on antihecti than to advise the chalk g , coral ,

oterii of ? for cum p , and the balm Canada As the turtle

a nd a re soup , it is a good restorative balsamic ; but I pp

h a . end , will tend to thicken rather th n attenuate the phlegm

of He mentions not a syllable the air, though it is universal l of y allowed , that the climate Montpellier is pernicious to ulcerated lungs ; and here I cannot help recounting a small a dventure which our doctor had with a son of Mr — f O d a in of . , merch nt the city London I had it rom

- Sr e w a s on . Mrs , who the spot The young gentle Mr man being consumptive , consulted F who con

tinned visiting and prescribing for him a whole month . At ’ length perceiving that he grew daily worse, Doctor, said

a : of he, I t ke your prescriptions punctually but , instead ’ for n ow n ot u being the better them , I have an ho r s remis

f - - sion from the ever in the four and twenty . I cannot con f ’ ceive the meaning o it . F who perceived he had

n ot a was : th e long to live, told him the re son very plain of l for re air Montpel ier was too sharp his lungs , which ’ ’

f . quired a so ter climate Then you re a sordid villain , for cried the young man , allowing m e to stay here till ’ o t my constitution is irretrievable . He set u immediately for Thoulouse few in , and in a weeks died the neighbour of hood that city . I Observe that the physicians in this country pay no re gard to the state of the solids in chronical disorders : that exercise an d the cold bath are neve r prescribed : th at they seem to think the scurvy is entirely an English disease ;

all f f s m and that , in appearance, they o ten con ound the y p of toms it with those of the venereal distemper . Perhaps I may be more particular on the subject in a subsequent let

ter . In the meantime, I am ever, dear sir, yours sincerely .

S O G A N D T 346 T RA VEL THR U H FRANCE I ALY .

of The wine this country is strong and harsh , and never n drank but whe mixed with water . Burgundy is dear,

w of and so is the s eet wine Frontignan , though made in the f Y o w f neighbourhood o Cette . u kno it is amous all over

li ueur s of Europe, and so are the q or drams various sorts , compounded and distilled at Montpellier . Cette is the sea

f f o port , about our leagues rom that city ; but the canal f Languedoc comes up within a mile of it ; and is indeed a

of great curiosity ; a work in all respects worthy a Colbert, under whose auspices it was finished . When I find such a general tribute Of respect and veneration paid to the memory f a few o th t great man , I am astonished to see so monuments l f of . a pub ic utility le t by other ministers One would im gine , that even the desire of praise would prompt a m uch greater number to exert themselves for the glory and advantage of in their country ; yet , my Opinion , the French have been

a f in a s ungr te ul to Colbert, the same proportion they have

- ll over rated the ch aracter of his master . Through a France one meets with statues and triumphal arches erected to Louis f I . o X V , in consequence his victories, by which , likewise, l he acquired the title of Louis e Grand . But how were ? of these victories obtained Not by any personal merit Louis . him I t was Colbert who improved his finances , and enabled Luvois n e to pay his army . It was that provided all the ces e s aries of . Luxember war I t was a Cond , a Turenne, a g , f a Vendome, who ought his battles ; and his first conquests ,

r of u oh fo which he was deified by the pen ad lation , were

ined a t a almost without bloodshed , over we k , dispirited , di

ded f . a vi , and de enceless nations It was Colbert th t improv fa ed the marine, instituted manu ctures , encouraged commerce, of undertook works public utility , and patronized the arts of and sciences . But Louis (you will say) had the merit choosing and supporting those ministers and those generals .

f v a . Lu ois I nswer , no He ound Colbert and already chosen he found Condé and Turenne in the very zenith of mili tary ’ Luxember reputation . g was Condé s pupil ; and Vendome,

of of a prince the blood , who at first obtained the command in e of armies consequ nce his high birth , and happened to S TRAVEL T HROUGH FRAN CE AND I TALY . 347

of turn out a man genius . The same Louis had the sagacity to revoke the edict of Nantz ; to intrust his armies to a Tal

a . h ad i l rd, a Villeroy , and a Marsin He the human ty to r a w av ge the country , burn the to ns , and massacre the people of the Palatinate . He h ad the p atriotism to im

own poverish and depopulate his kingdom , in order to pro f h s ecute schemes o the most lawless ambition . He ad the consolation to beg a peace from those he had provoked to war by the most outrageous insolence ; and he had the glory n old a e of to espouse Mrs Mainteno in her g , the widow the i f ff . t bu oon Scarron Without all doubt, was rom irony he

l nd a cquired the title e Gr a . Having received a favourable answer from Mr B

h u of the Englis cons l at Nice, and recommended the care Ra my heavy baggage to Mr y, who undertook to send it f f by sea rom Cette to Ville ranche, I hired a coach and mules ’ for loui dores out f l on seven , and set rom Montpe lier the 1 3 of th November, the weather being agreeable, though the f air was cold and rosty . In other respects there were no signs

f : h O winter the Olives were now ripe, and appeared on eac side of the road as black as sloes ; and the corn was already

f f . O n of our hal a oot high the second day journey , we on of B uccair e la passed the Rhone a bridge boats at , and y

' on the other side at Tarras eone . Next day we put up at a r e wretched place called Orgon , where, however, we were

galed with an excellent supper ; and among other delicacies,

of a . with a dish green pe se Provence is a pleasant country , well cultivated ; but the inns are not so good here as in Lan

uedoc fe w of con g , and them are provided with a certain v enience which an English traveller can very ill dispense of with . Those you find are generally on the tops houses ,

exceedingly nasty ; and so much exposed to the weather , that a valetudinarian cannot use them without hazard of his f f . li e At Nismes in Languedoc, where we ound the temple

f in i n a o Cloac a a most shocking condition , the servant m id told me her mistress had caused it to be made on purpose for the E nglish travellers ; but now she was very sorry for w f hat she had done, as all the French who had requented R _ 848 T RAVEL S THROUGH F ANCE AND ITALY .

of f ff on her house, instead using the seat , le t their o erings

a or the floor, which she was obliged to have cle ned three

- f f a . o h our times day This is a degree beastliness , whic

a of a would appear detestable even in the capit l North Brit in .

O n f of our r a the ourth day pilg im ge , we lay in the suburbs of I h ad Aix, but did not enter the city , which a great

a a of curiosity to see . The vill nous sthma baulked me that f I h an d a satis action . was pinched wit the cold , imp tient to a a reach a w armer climate . Our next st ge was at paltry

village, where we were poorly entertained . I looked so ill i n a a of the morning , th t the good wom n the house, who was i n big with ch ld, took me by the hand at parting , and eve s a f hed te rs , praying ervently that God would restore me to f m . o y health This was the only instance , com — “ sympathy or o me t passion , goodness f heart, that I had with among

of . V a our the publicans France Indeed , at alenci , land _ i for lady , understanding I was travell ng to Montpellier f my health , would have dissuaded me rom going thither ; an d i a of a exhorted me, in part cular, to bew re the physici ns , wh o were all a pack of assassins . She advised me to eat f of and ricasses chickens , and white meat , to take a good bouillon every morning . A bouillo n is an universal remedy among the good people of a a of France ; insomuch , that they h ve no ide any persons a n l f th d f u bon bouil on . o e ying , a ter having sw llowed One u English gentlemen , who were robbed and m rdered about i a a o a a n th rty ye rs g , between C l is and Boulog e, being

- of of brought to the post house Boulogne , with some signs f a li e, this remedy was immedi tely administered . What sur ’ r - of prised me g eatly , said the post master, speaking this f of f melancholy story to a riend mine , two years a ter it hap

bouillon pened , I made an excellent , and poured it down ’ w d a o n an . his thro t with my hands, yet he did not recover

a bouillon a Now , in all prob bility , this it was th t stopped

. man his breath When I was a very young , I remember to have seen a person suffocated by such impertinent of of u fi ciousnes s . A young man uncommon parts and er di l of G— ow tion , very we l esteemed at the university , was

S 350 TR A VEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

: in a r ance that , gener l , the weather was very mild and ag ee able during the winter months ; th at living was very cheap f ff a o Of a . in this p rt Provence , which a orded great plenty g me I f f m Here , too , ound a young Irish recollet , in his way ro

Rome to his own country . He complained that he w as al most starved by the inhospitable disposition Of the French

e in a h ad peopl ; and that the regular clergy , p rticular,

a tre ted him with the most cruel disdain . I relieved his and a of own necessities , g ve him a letter to a gentleman his

at . country Montpellier When I rose in the morning, and

a Opened window that looked into the garden , I thought my

f a . sel either in dream , or bewitched All the trees were

and all a clothed with snow, the country covered , at le st , a ”

f . be of to oot thick This cannot the south France, said I ‘ ’ f of ! mysel , it must be the Highlands Scotland At a w m retched town called Muy , where we dined , I had a war

our l w dispute with andlord , which , ho ever, did not termi f th n . on f e nate to my satis actio I sent the mules be ore, to

a - m next stage, resolving to t ke post horses, and bespoke the

of a w as accordingly the ubergiste , who , at the same time ,

innkeeper and postmaster . We were ushered into the com

- ff f mon eating room , and had a very indi erent dinner ; a ter ’ loui dore in which , I sent a to be changed , order to pay the

of f a reckoning . The landlord , instead giving the ull ch nge ,

a- for deducted three livres head dinner, and sent in the rest

Of the money by my servant . Provoked more at his ill

a at f out of manners th n his extortion , I erreted him a bed

h ad f him chamber , where he concealed himsel , and obliged

f n f a a to restore the ull cha ge , rom which I p id him at the r te

- h of a . f two livres head He re used to take the money , whic

w on I thre down the table ; and the horses being ready ,

a r on . stepped into the co ch , orde ing the postillions to drive

had a fel Here I cert inly reckoned without my host . The

a a lows decl red they would not budge, until I should p y their

an d as a master ; , I threatened them with manu l chastise

a a a . ment , they lighted , and dis ppe red in a twinkling I was

n ow u so incensed , that though I could hardly breathe , tho gh the af n w as far ter oon advanced, and the street covered with T TRAVEL S HROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 351

a of wet snow , I w lked to the consul the town , and made my

a f . compl int in orm This magistrate, who seemed to be a th tailor , accompanied me to the inn , where , by this time, e whole tow n was a ssembled and endeavoured to persuade me ff to compromise the a air . I said , as he was the magistrate,

I would stand to his award . He answered, that he would ’ t o not presume determine what I was to pay . I have al for ready paid him a reasonable price his dinner (said I) , and ’ now I demand post horses according to the king s ordonnance .

a The aubergiste said the horses were re dy, but the guides were run away and he could n Ot find others to go in their ff place . I argued with great vehemence, O ering to leave a ’ loui dore for of a the poor the p rish , provided the consul would oblige the rascal to do his duty . The consul shrug ged up his shoulders , and declared it was not in his power. This w as a lie ; but I perceived he had no mind to disoblige

If h ad a . d the public n the mules not been sent away , I shoul a but certainly have not only p id what I thought proper , corrected the landlord into the bargain for his insolence and

n ow was the extortion ; but I entirely at his mercy , and as consul continued to exhort me in very humble terms to com ply with his demands , I thought proper to acquiesce . Then the postillions immedia tely appeared : the cro wd seemed to exult in the triumph of th e aubergiste ; and I was obliged f to travel in the night , in very severe weather, a ter all the fatigue and mortification I had undergone .

For u m J uli a num of th e We lay at Frejus , which was the

a of a of ancients , and still bo sts some rem ins antiquity , par ticularly the ruins Of an amphitheatre and an aqueduct . The first we passed in the d ark ; and next morning the weather

was so cold , that I could not walk abroad to see it . The

town is at present very inconsiderable, and indeed in a ruin

ous . a t condition Nevertheless , we were very well lodged

- the post house , and treated with more politeness than we had

met with in any other part of France .

a a As we had a very high mount in to scend in the morning, f and I ordered the mules on be ore to the next post , hired six f saw f r . s o horses o the coach At th e ea t end Frejus , we , T I 352 TRAVEL S HROUGH FRANCE AND TALY.

a on f of t close to the ro d , our le t hand , the arcades the ancien u of n h aqued ct , and the ruins some Roma edifices, whic

s eemed to h ave been temples . There was nothing striking a in the architecture of the aqueduct . The rches are small

and low , without either grace or ornament, and seem to

h ave been calculated for mere utility .

of E sterelle s The mountains , which is eight miles over , f f of t was ormerly requented by a gang desperate bandi ti ,

a : who are now h ppily exterminated the road is very good ,

in a . but some pl ces very steep , and bordered by precipices

a la u r us cer a s us The mount in is covered with pines , and the ,

f of ne w c the ruit which being ripe, made a most romanti w la appearance through the sno that y upon the branches .

for The cherries were so large, that I at first mistook them

dwarf oranges . I think they are counted poisonous in Eng

a m . l nd , but here the people eat the without hesitation In

Of a the - the middle the mount in is post house, where we dined m of in a room so cold , that the bare re embrance it makes my f teeth chatter . A ter dinner, I chanced to look into another f chamber that ronted the south , where the sun shone ; and w n Of opening a windo , perceived withi a yard my hand , f o . a large tree loaded with oranges, many which were ripe fi You may judge what my astonishment was, to nd Winter i n one of all his rigour reigning on side the house, and Sum ll a on . e mer in her glory the other Certain it is , the middl of this mountain seemed to be the boundary of the cold wea

~ f ther . As we proceeded slowly in the a ternoon , we were

f a quite enchanted . The side O the hill is a n tural planta of th e a a fi c tion most gree ble evergreens , pines , rs , laurel , y tamarisc press, sweet myrtle , , box , and juniper, interspersed

a and with sweet marjor m , lavender, thyme , wild thyme ,

a . O n S a s ge the right hand , the ground hoots up into gree

ou deli htfuk v slaS of able cones , between which y have g i the a a a f of be Mediterr ne n , which w shes the oot the rock ; and

of th e w a tween two divisions mountains , there is a bottom

t e red a by a charming stre m , which greatly adds to the rural

of beauties the scene . f This night we passed at Cannes, a little ishing town ,

S T 354: TRAVEL HROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

fa P isatello whereas, in ct , the Rubicon , now called , runs — w n a . bet ee R venna and Rimini But to return to the Var . f t o S . f for d At the village Laurent , amous its musca ine

Of a a wines, there is a set guides lw ys in attendance to con

of duct you in your passage over the river . Six those fel lows, tucked up above the middle , with long poles in their

a of our h nds , took charge coach , and by many windings

f w as guided it sa e to the Opposite shore . Indeed there no

for of a occasion any ; but it is a sort perquisite , and I did

not choose to run any risk , how small soever it might be, for of f the sake saving hal a crown , with which they were f f t I a a . satisfied . you do not gr ti y the se rchers at S Laurent

with the sam e sum , they will rummage your trunks , and

- . for turn all your clothes topsy turvy And here, once all ,

v a own I would ad ise every tr veller , who consults his ease

a of and convenience, to be liber l his money to all that sort of people ; and ev en to wink at the imposition of aubergistes

on u a . ou the road , nless it be very flagr nt So sure as y enter into disputes with them, you will be put to a great deal of f f of . trouble, and ret yoursel to no manner purpose I have

a travelled with economists in England , who decl red they would rather give away a cro wn than allow themselves to

of fa . a be cheated a rthing This is a good m xim , but re

quires a great share of resolution and self- deni al to put i n

I one f - i . n m n . practice excursion , y ellow traveller was a

a of bad f one p ssion , and consequence very company , rom

a end of the journey to the other . He was incess ntly scold

at a d a or ing either l ndlor s , l ndladies , waiters , ostlers , postil and b ad ou f lions . We had bad horses chaises ; set t rom every stage with the curses of the people ; and at this ex pense I saved about ten shillings in a journey of a hundred

an d f f . a a i ty miles For such a p ltry consider tion , he was f contented to be miserable himsel , and to make every other

a h person unh ppy with whom he ad any concern . When

f a a n I came last rom Bath , it r ined so h rd , that the postillio who drove the chaise was wet to the skin before we had

of . a gone a couple miles When we rrived at the Devizes , him of out of I gave two shillings instead one, pure compas S O R TRAVEL THR UGH F ANCE AND ITALY. 355

of sion . The consequence this liberality was , that in the next stage we seemed rather to fly th an to travel upon solid

. r ground I continued my bounty to the second d iver, and i f ndeed through the whole journey, and ound myself aecom modated in a very differe nt manner from what I had e xpe rienced f be ore . I had elegant chaises , with excellent horses ; of own and the postillions , their accord , used such diligence,

a that , lthough the roads were broken by the rain , I travelled at the rate of t welve miles an hour ; and my extraordinary expense from Bath to London amounted precisely to six shil lings . The river Var falls into the Mediterranean a little below t f h S . a t e of . L urent , about our miles to westward Nice of Within the memory persons now living, there have been w f n three wooden bridges thro n over it, and as o te destroy in of a th e ed , consequence the je lousy subsisting between of kings France and Sardinia , this river being the boundary

of of . their dominions on the side Provence However, this is a consideration that ought not to interfere with the other advant ages that would accrue to both kingdoms from such f a an d . I a convenience there was bridge over the Var, a

- a f am f post road m de rom Nice to Genoa , I very con ident th a t all thos e strangers who n ow pass the Alps in their way f to and rom Italy , would choose this road, as infinitely more

f a a . sa e , commodious , and gree ble This would also be the case with all those who hire feluccas from Marseilles or A n in conveni tibes , and expose themselves to the dangers and en i of s ea c es travelling by in an open boat . f . f In the a ternoon we arrived at Nice, where we ound Mr the M e , English gentleman whom I had seen at Bou f u . log e , and advised to come hither He had ollowed my f advice , and reached Nice about a month be ore my arrival , with his lady , child , and an old governante . He had tra v elled ow n - lod with his post chaise and horses , and is now g

one of of in of ed just without the gates the city , the house ’ V for h a f loui dores the count de n , whic he p ys ive a r month . I could hire one much be tter in the neighbou hood of for London the same money . Unless you will submit to 356 T T R RAVEL S H OUGH FRAN CE AND ITALY .

i ’ a w hole for a of this extortion , and hire house length time ,

fi a - f f you will nd no re dy urnished lodgings at Nice . A ter

h a a w e e k a a h a a a ving stewed in p ltry inn , I ve t ken ground

f for of f a - loor ten months , at the rate our hundred livres year, l ‘ that is precisely twenty pounds sterling ; for the Piedmontese

a n are livre is ex ctly a English shilling . The apartments f n ar large , lo ty , and commodious e ough , with two small g

in of a a an d a a dens , which there is plenty s ll d , gre t number of oranges an d lemons : but as it required some time to pro

v fu our on e of n a ide rniture , consul Mr B d , the best

tured f h as and most riendly men in the world , lent me his

n w h are a a s e a- lodgi gs , hic ch rmingly situ ted by the side ,

an d u a a a a a open pon a terr ce , th t runs p r llel to the be ch ,

forming p art of the town wall . Mr B d himself lives

a t a a f Vill Franc , which is divided rom Nice by a single

of a f mountain , on the top which there is a sm ll ort , called

a f the castle of Montalban . Immedi tely a ter our arrival, we

one a a were visited by Mr de Martines , most greeable young

f a ellow , a lieuten nt in the Swiss regiment , which is here in f . a a of our garrison He is protest nt , extremely ond nation ,

s a our a nd under t nds language tolerably well . He was par ticularly recommended to our acquaintance by General P

“

an d . fi him his lady We are happy in his conversation , nd “ f and y on wonder ully obliging, extremel serviceable many

a occasions. We have likewise m de acquaintance with some St v . other indi iduals , particularly with Mr Pierre junior , f w h o a a or . is consider ble merchant , and consul Naples He

- n a is a well bred sensible you g man , spe ks English , is an ex

' n t f and a celle per ormer on the lute m ndolin , and has a pretty

of . collection books In a word , I hope we shall pass the

w a a if inter gree bly enough , especially Mr M e should hold out ; but I am afraid he is too far gone in a consump

tion to recover . He spent the last winter at Nismes , and t consulted F at Montpellier . I was impatien to see the and f had prescription , ound it almost verbatim the same he

sent to me, although I am persuaded there is a very essential -

difference between our disorders . Mr M e has been long ff l a licted with Violent spasms, col iquative sweats, prostration

358 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND I TALY.

n h‘ r . 44 ent This was the case in the year 1 7 , when the Fre c

and Spanish armies attacked eighteen Piedmontese battalions , which were posted on the side of Montalban. The assail

e of f e ants w re repulsed with the loss our thousand men , som

of P a lion hundreds whom perished in repassing the g , which h ad in swelled to a surprising degree during the battle, con

of of r sequence a heavy continued rain . This rain was g eat

s on e f Of ervice to the Piedmontese, as it prevented hal the

enemy from passing the river to sustain the other . Five f hundred were taken prisoners ; but the Piedmontese, ore

seeing they should be surrounded next day by the French ,

h ad a a who penetr ted behind them , by a p ss in the moun on tains , retired in the night . Being received board the E nglish fleet, which lay at Villa Franca, they were convey of ed to Oneglia . In examining the bodies those that were of a killed in the battle , the inhabitants Nice perceived that great number of the Spanish soldiers were circumcised ; a circumstance from which they concluded that a great many of of Jews engage in the service his catholic majesty . I am ff of a di erent opinion . The Jews are the least any people f that I know addicted to a military li e . I rather imagine of they were the Moorish race, who have subsisted in Spain of since the expulsion their brethren ; and , though they f of con orm externally to the rites the catholic religion , still

retain in private their a ttachment to the law of M ahomet . The city of Nice is built in form of an irregular isosceles

of f O n triangle , the base which ronts the sea . the west side it is surrounded by a wall and rampart ; on the east it is

on of old overhung by a rock , which we see the ruins an c f of astle , which , be ore the invention artillery , was counted i impregnable . It was taken and d smantled by Mareschal of A madaeus fa of Catinat, in the time Victor , the ther his

af fi Sardinian majesty . It was terwards nally demolished by ’ of of the duke Berwick , towards the latter end Queen Anne s To war . repair it would be a very unnecessary expense,

as it is commanded by Montalban , and several other emi

nences .

of e f f The town Nic is altogether inde ensible, and there ore S 85 T RAVEL T H ROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY . 9

without fortifications . There are only two iron guns upon a bas tion that fronts the beach ; and here the French had formed a considerable battery against the English cruisers i n of 1 44 B elleisle the war 7 , when the mareschal duke de

- . s a had his head quarters at Nice Thi little town , situ ted of f i in the bay Antibes , is almost equidistant rom Marse lles,

Turin , and Genoa, the first and last being about thirty f of leagues rom hence by sea, and the capital Piedmont at the same distance to the northward , over the mountains . I t l on Of ies exactly opposite to Capo di Ferro , the coast Bar bary ; and the islands of Sardinia and Corsica are laid down two about degrees to the eastward, almost exactly in a line w i ir mf . nc cu e ith Genoa This little town , hardly a mile rence, is said to contain twelve thousand inhabitants . The of streets are narrow, the houses are built stone, and the windows in general are fitted with paper instead of glass . This expedient would not answer i n a country subject to Of ci rain and storms ; but here, where there is very little ther, the paper lozenges answer tolerably well . The hour

eois . g , however, begin to have their houses sashed with glass

n - Betwee the town wall and the sea , the fishermen haul up their boats upon the open be ach ; but on the other side of or of the rock , where the castle stood, is the port harbour

Nice, upon which some money has been expended . It is a

l f of f - sma l bason , de ended to seaward by a mole ree stone, which is much better contrived than executed ; for the sea

h a robabi has already made t ree bre ches in it ; and , in all p lit of y, in another winter, the extremity it will be carried f f quite away . I t would require the talents o a very skil ul architect to lay the foundation of a good mole on an open

l of M di er beach ike this, exposed to the swell the whole e t ranean or f , without any island rock in the o fing to break the

f of . orce the waves Besides , the shore is bold , and the bot

tom f . f of i oul There are seventeen eet water n the bason , s ufficient to float vessels of one hundred and fifty tons ; and

' this is chiefly supplied by a s mall stream of very fine water S of another great convenience for shipping . O n the ide the of of mole there is a constant guard soldiers , and a battery Y 860 T R AVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE A ND ITAL .

. O n e seven cannon , pointing to the sea the other side ther f for or l t a is a curious m anu acture twisting ree ing silk , a

a ff - h for vern , co ee ouse , and several other buildings , the h af IVith u convenience of t e se aring people . o t the harbour

za f f a is a l a rette , where persons coming rom in ected pl ces are f obliged to per orm quarantine . T he harbour has been de

clar ed a f a f of a ree port ; and it is gener lly ull tart nes , pol

a f a a acres , and other small vessels , th t come rom S rdini , Ivi

ca i a , Italy , and Spa n , loaded with s lt , wine, and other com

of an moditie s ; but here is no trade y great consequence . of ad The city Nice is provided with a senate, which

a of - a ministers justice under the uspices an avocat gener l ,

sent hither by the king . The internal economy of the town

f for is managed by our consuls ; one the noblesse, another

for a for a f the merch nts , a third the bourgeois , and ourth f for the peasants . These are chosen annually rom the town

. and council They keep the streets and markets in order,

. an superintend the public works There is also intendant, ’ who takes care of his majesty s revenue : but there is a dis of cretionary power lodged in the person the commandant,

a ff of n u who is lways an O icer rank in the service , and has der his immediate command the regiment which is here in w f a . n o a o g rrison That which is here , is Swiss battalion ,

w hich the king has five or Six in his service . There is like

- a of a a . wise regiment militia, which is exercised once ye r Bu t of all a 1 a f an these p rticulars , sh ll speak more ully on

other occasion . u a an d When I stand pon the ramp rt , look around me ,

I can scarce help thinking myself ench anted . The sm all ex

Of all a a tent country which I see , is cultivated like g rden .

a f of Indeed, the plain presents nothing but g rdens , ull green

a a l trees , lo ded with or nges , emons , citrons , and bergamots, If which make a delightful appearance . you examine them

a of more nearly , you will find pl ntations green pease ready

a all of s alladin an d - in f to g ther ; sorts g , pot herbs per ection ;

of ane monie s an d and plats roses , carnations , ranunculus , ,

ff f a da odils , blowing in ull glory , with such be uty , vigour, f and per ume, as no flower in England ever exhibited .

S R 3692 TRAVEL THROUGH F ANCE AND ITALY .

C emenelion a Cimia h e ancient city , now c lled , whic was onc

e of and of o the m tropolis the Maritime Alps , the seat a R man president . With respect to situation , nothing could be more agreeable or salubrious . It stood upon the gentle of a f ascent and summit hill ronting the Mediterranean , from the shore of which it is distant about half a league ;

or a w and on the other side , it overlooked a bottom n rro P a lion u vale, through which the g (anciently called Pa lo) of run towards the walls Nice . It was inhabited by a peo m Veda n ti ple, who Ptolemy and Pliny call the j but these were undoubtedly mixed with a Roman colony , as appears by the monuments which still remain ; I mea n the ruins of a of an amphitheatre, temple Apollo , baths, aqueducts , s epulchral and other stones , with inscriptions , and a great of a f number med ls , which the peasants have ound by acci

in d a v dent, igging and l bouring the ineyards and corn

lds . fi e , which now cover the ground where the city stood f an Touching this city , very little is to be learned rom the

of cient historians but that it was the seat a Roman preses, two f is proved by the ollowing inscriptions, which are still e xtant .

. A E LI O . SE V E R I P N O. V . E . P .

P B A E SI DI . O T I M O P .

O R D O . C E M E N .

P A T R O N 0 . s of Gube rnatis Thi is now in the possession the count de ,

- . f who has a country house upon the spot The other, ound of near the same place, is in praise the preses Marcus Aure l lius Mascu us .

BF. A V R E L I O . M A SCV LO .

V . E .

0 B . E XI M IA M . P R A E SIDA TV S .

E I V S . I N TE G RI TA TE M . E T

E GR E GI A M . A D O DI N E S H O M I N E S

BIA N SV E TV DI N E BI . E T . V B GE N TI S .

A N N O N A E . SI N C E R A BI. P RAE B I TI O N E DI.

A C . M V N I F I C E N TI A M . E T. Q U O D . A Q VA E .

V SV BI . V E TV STA TE . L A P SV M B E Q V I

S I TV M . A C . R E P E R TV M. SA E CV L I

F LICI TA TE . C V R SV I R I S I E . P T NO

R E DDID E R I T.

C O L LE G. I I I .

V I B . E X. S C C . E ST. Q . P

TR DI ISS. P A ON O . GN S A TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE ND ITALY . 363

This president well deserved such a mark of respect from two a people whom he had assisted in such essential articles ,

e . Y ou w of as their corn and th ir water kno , the preses a

had us endi cla vi v of Roman province the j fi g , the pri ilege la tus cla vus la dius i r ula r cetexta u r wearing the , the g , f , p , p ur a at a nn ulus a u r eus na sa vehicu la a a r i p he had his , , pp ll t r es s ci i ebur n eus et s e a cur ulis . o , p o , I shall give you one more sepulchral inscription on 3 mar n ow of be ble, which is placed over the gate the church f ‘ o . n longing to the convent S Pont , a venerable buildi g, of f which stands at the bottom the hill, ronting the north t f . of o S . or side the town Nice This Pont , Pontius , was ff a a t a Roman convert to Christianity , who su ered m rtyrdom

C emenelion a 2 6 1 n of in the ye r , during the reig s the em li perot s Valerian and Ga enus . The legends recount some f of be ridiculous miracles wrought in avour this saint , both f f . o a fore and a ter his death Charles V. emperor Germ ny a nd of on king Spain , caused this monastery to be built the

ff . u spot where Pontius su ered decapitation But , to ret rn to the inscription ; it appears in these words

BI . 3 2. A .

F LA V I AE . B ASI L L AE . C O N I V G. C A R I SSI M .

D O M. B O BIA . M I R A E . E R GA . M A R I TV BI A M O R IS .

A D Q . C A S TI TA T . F A E M I N A E . Q V A E VI XI T

X XV . M . I II . D I B . X I . A V R E L I V S A N N . X E I

R H O DI S M A N V S . A V G. L I B . C O DI M E M . A LP .

M A R T . E T . A V R E L IA . B O MV LA . F I L IA .

I MP A TI E N TI SS I M . D O L O R . E IV S . A DF L I C TI .

A DQ . D E SO L A TI . C A R I S SI H . A C . ME R E N T. FE RE T.

F E C . A T . D E D .

. The amphitheatre of Ce men eli on is but very small com h of . T e pared to that Nismes arena is ploughed up, and of of two O bears corn : some the seats remain, and part p po site porticos ; but all the columns and the external facade of the building are taken away ; so that it is impossible to

: judge of the architecture all that we can perceive is , that it on e f was built in an oval form . About hundred paces rom the amphitheatre stood an ancient temple supposed to have been f a s dedicated to Apollo . The original roo is demolished , well h . T e as the portico ; the vestiges of which may still be traced

- i f of part called the Basil ca, and about one hal the Cella Sanc 364 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE AND I TALY .

and w - and tior, remain , are converted into the d elling house stable of the peasant who takes care of the count de Guber ’

i . n at s s garden , in which this monument stands In the Cel

n tior f a h e - a an d a a - as s la Sa c , I ound a le n cow , a go t , j ck ; the very s ame conjun ctlon of anim als which I had seen a a a drawing a plough in Burgundy . Sever l mutil ted st tues have been dug up from the ruins of this temple ; and a grea t number off med als h ave been found in the different viney ards which now occupy the space upon which stood the ancient

f a . of m n elion . o city Ce e These were gold , silver , and br ss f a m l M any o them were presented to Ch rles E anue I , duke The of a h as a of of S avoy . prince Mon co good number

them in his collection ; an d the rest are in private h ands .

Th e f a peasants , in digging , have likewise ound m ny urns ,

and a a lachrymatories , sepulchr l ston es , with epit phs , which are n ow di spersed among different convents and private

of a houses . All this ground is a rich mine ntiquities , which , if a a Of a properly worked , would produce gre t number v lu

of able curiosities . Just by the temple Apollo were the ruins of a of a of a b th , composed gre t blocks marble , which have

for of been t aken away the purposes modern building . In all probability many other noble monuments of this city

a a a a h ve been dil pidated by the same b rb rous economy .

ar e wa There some subterranean vaults , through which the

w as s a a a of ter conducted to thi b th , still ext nt in the g rden

the count de Gubernatis . Of the aqueduct th at conveyed

a to w ter the town , I can say very little , but that it was scooped through a mountain : that this subterranean pass a e a o g was discovered some years g , by removing the rub bish which choked it up ; th at the people penetrating a a the of f consider ble way , by help lighted torches , ound a

fu of a very plenti l stream water flowing in an queduct, as an a man h high as ordin ry , arched over head , and lined wit O f a sort cement . They could not , however, trace this stream to its source ; and it is agai n stopped up with earth

and rubbish . There is not a soul in this country who has either spirit or understanding to conduct an inquiry of this

. th e f kind Hard by amphitheatre is a convent O recollets,

S TII R O UGH N 366 TRAVEL FRA CE AND ITALY .

a of this lanthorn is l id down to the westward the harbour,

a a and a a n error equ lly bsurd d ngerous, as it may mislead

a the navig tor, and induce him to run his ship among the

of l - nu rocks to the eastward the ight house, where it would

t of doubtedly perish . Opposi e to the mouth the harbour is can Of f the fort . which be n o service but in de ending the

s e a for a shipping and the town by ; , by l nd, it is com man ded and all o by Montalban , the hills in the neighb ur

w f 1 44 w as and af o a a . hood . In the 7 , it t ken ret ken At

f of present it is in tolerable good repair . On the le t the

f a for a of in ort is the b son the g lleys , with a kind dock ,

an d a re fit which they are built , occasion lly laid up to be " f m ted . This bason is or ed by a pretty stone mole ; and ' a f here his Sardinian majesty s two g lleys lie per ectly secure ,

moored with their sterns close to the jette . I went on he ar d

one of saw these vessels , and about two hundred miserable

on row wretches chained to the banks , which they sit and l when the ga ley is at s ea . This is a Sight which a British

of subject , sensible the blessing he enjoys , cannot behold if without horror and compassion . Not but th at we con

of a sider the nature the case with coolness and deliber tion , we must acknowledge the justness and even sagacity of em ploying for the service of the public those malefactors who f f have or eited their title to the privileges of the community .

Among the slaves at Ville Franche is a Piedmontese count ,

al for f in of condemned to the g leys li e , consequence having f f been convicted o orgery . He is permitted to live on shore ; and gets money by e m a ploying the other Slaves to knit stockings for sale . He p

a in a fa of pe rs always the Turkish habit, and is in ir way

raising a better fortune than that which he has forfeited . It

f a a is a great pity , however, and a mani est outrage g inst

law Of as of the nations , as well humanity , to mix with those a banditti , the Moorish and Turkish prisoners , who are t ken w us tifica in the prosecution of open ar . It is certainly no j

of a tion this barbarous practice , that the christi n prisoners for are treated as cruelly at Tunis and Algiers . It would be of of the honour Christendom , to set an example generosity TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 367

if not f l r to the Turks ; and they would o low it, to j oin thei f of wh o n aval orces, and extirpate at once those nests pirates f have so long in ested the Mediterranean . Certainly nothing

‘ can be more shameful than the treaties which France and the maritime powers have concluded with those barbarians .

They supply them with artillery, arms , and ammunition , to a disturb their neighbours . They even p y them a sort of of and f ut tribute, under the denomination presents ; o ten p for of up with insults tamely , the sordid consideration a lit

a n wa of . w tle g i in the y commerce They kno that Spain, in Mediter Sardinia, and almost all the catholic powers the anean ar e r , Adriatic, and Levant, at perpetual war with

t a those Mahometans ; hat, while Algiers , Tunis , and S llee, at sea maintain armed cruisers , those christian powers will

of a own not run the risk tr ding in their bottoms, but rather employ as carriers the maritime nations who are at peace

f o r of a with the infidels . It is or u share this dvantage that

a a of a we cultivate the piratic l st tes Barb ry , and meanly pur Of chase passports them , thus acknowledging them masters of the Mediterranean .

“ The Sardinian galleys are mounted each with fi ve - and w of t enty oars, and six guns , six pounders a side , and a

of a - n h large piece artillery midships , pointi g a head ; whic

far - a (so as I am able, to judge) can never be used point bl nk, The without demolishing the head or prow of the galley . accommodation on board for the Officers is wretched . There l is a paltry cabin in the poop for the comm ander ; but al tF ffi the other o cers lie below the slaves , in a dungeon , where air nor of ; f they have neither light , , any degree quiet hal

f a a suffocated by the heat o the pl ce ; tormented by fle s , bugs , and lice ; and disturbed by the incessant noise over head .

The slaves lie upon the naked banks , without any other covering than a tilt . This, however, is no great hardship , fe d in a climate where there is scarce any winter . They are w of a f ith a very scanty allowance bre d , and about ourteen beans a - day ; and twice a- week they have a little rice or t : Of are , cheese but most them , while they in harbour kni s or m of h stockings , do so e other kind work , whic enable 368 TRAVEL S THROUGH F RAN CE A N D I TALY .

wa them to m ake some addition to this wretched allo nce .

h h a at bad a h a W en t ey h ppen to be sea in we ther , t eir situ

b . a tion is truly deplora le Every wave bre ks over the vessel , e h a and not only ke ps t em continu lly wet , but comes with

- s f ar e a a a a h uch orce , that they d shed g inst the b nks wit sur

r is m and p g violence ; sometimes their limbs are broke , some a times their br ains d ashed out . It is impossible (they s y)

to keep such a number of desperate people under any regu .

a lar comm nd , without exercising such severities as must

. a a shock humanity . It is lmost equ lly impossible to main

a an a of a t in y toler ble degree cle nliness , where such a number f are or o wretches crowded together without conveniencies ,

- even the necess aries of life . They are ordered twice a week

s i a a : ~ to tr p , cle n , and b the themselves in the sea but not a Of a m withst nding all the precautions discipline , they sw r

a or with vermin , and the vessel smells like an hospit l , e of crowded jail . They seem , nevertheless , quite ins nsible

a their misery like so m nyconvicts in Newgate, they laugh d n n a d . and sing , a swear, get drunk when they can When b of mu you enter by the stern , you are welcomed y a band s i c selected fromthe slaves ; and these expect a gratification .

f ou If a of . you walk orwards , y must take c re your pockets

or of You will be accosted by one other the slaves , with a brush and blacking- ball for cleaning your shoes ; and if you i a one undergo th s oper tion , it is ten to but your pocket is

If n f picked . you decli e his service , and keep aloo , you b of will find it almost impossi le to avoid a colony vermin , w hich these fellows h ave a very dexterous method of convey f m a . o i g to str ngers Some the Turk sh prisoners , whose

a ar e a a r nsom or exchange is expected , llowed to go shore ,

r ca ts a , under proper inspection and those fo , who h ve serv e d th e a of for best p rt the time which they were condemned , are f u a o . employed in public works , nder a gu rd soldiers At the h arbour of Nice they are hired by shipmasters to

n a a and a a a of h a bri g b ll st , h ve sm ll proportion w at they e rn f r h h o t eir own use : t e rest belongs to the king . They are

a distinguished by an iron sh ckl e about one of their legs . The road from Nice to Ville Franche is scarce passable on

3 0 7 TR AVEL S THROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY .

utility . Nothing can be more absurd and unreason able than the murmurs of the Piedmontese officers at the preferment of

f for a e of oreigners , who execute those things the adv ntag

of n a . their country , which they know themselves i cap ble When Mr P n was first promoted in the service of his

Sardinian majesty , he met with great opposition , and num

berless mortifi cation s f of , rom the jealousy the Piedmontese ffi f a r en coun o cers , and was obliged to hazard his li e in m ny

f . ters with them , be ore they would be quiet Being a man of ff or af uncommon spirit , he never su ered the least insult f to of ront pass unch astised . He had repeated opportunities

si : of gnalizing his valour against the Turks and , by dint “ n ot a extraordinary merit , and long services , only att ined

f of of lieute the chie command the galleys , with the rank

n ant- general but also acquired a v ery considerable share

of fa of the kings vour , and was appointed commandant

Nice . His Sardinian m ajesty found his account more ways

a one in II . th n , thus promoting Mr P He made the of f of fide acquisition an excellent o ficer, tried courage and

li t ffa . s y, by whose advice he conducted his marine a irs Thi gentleman was perfectly well esteemed at the court of L on

. of 1 44 don In the war 7 , he lived in the utmost harmony with the British admirals who commanded our fleet in th e

. of Mediterranean In consequence this good understanding, a thousand occasional services were performed by the Eng

for of a lish ships , the benefit his m ster , which otherwise f to could not have been done , without a ormal application our ministry ; in which case the opportunities would have been lost I know our admirals had general orders and in

s tr uction s to co- Operate in all things with his Sardinian ma w e jesty ; but I kno also , by experience, how little these g

a ner l instructions avail , when the admiral is not cordially of interested in the service . Were the king Sardinia at pre

n e w sent engaged with England in a war against France ,

a a f and a British squ dron stationed upon this co st , as ormer

l a ff . y, he would find a gre t di erence in this particular He should therefore carefully avoid having at Nice a Savoyard of ff commandant, utterly ignorant sea a airs ; unacquainted 3 1 T RAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 7

of with the true interest his master, proud and arbitrary ;

a f of reserved to str ngers , rom a prejudice national jealousy ;

and particularly averse to the English . of a e With respect to the ancient name Villa Franc , ther a t is a dispute among antiquarians . It is not all mentioned

Itiner a ri um of the in the Antoninus , unless it is meant as t of por Nice . But it is more surprising, that the accurate

s a en . Strabo, in de cribing this co st , m tions no such harbour

Some people imagine it is the Portus Herculis Mouss ei . But this is undoubtedly what is now called Monaco ; the harbour of which exactly tallies with what Strabo says of the Portus

Monte ci ne ue ma na s n e ue multas a it n a ves . P tol g g , q c p e m of y, indeed , seems to mention it under the name Her H id ff f Monee ci . culis Portus , di erent rom the Portus words — ilien are these P os t Var i os ti um a d lig uatr ium ma r e . ill as a s ium aun t a H e r culis P r tus Tr haea Au us ti Nic ea, o op g , Mon i wc P or tus . In that case , Hercules was worshipped

at a . both here and Monaco , and gave his name to both pl ces B ut on this subject I sh all perh aps speak more fully in an

o f th e Tr o haea Au us ti now ther letter, a ter I have seen p g ,

l Tourbia of n o cal ed , and the town Mo aco , which last is ab ut

f a three leagues rom Nice . Here I cannot help t king notice Of the following elegant description from the Pharsalia

a which seems to have been intended for this very h rbour .

inis et H es eriaa romote mi ite varus F p p l , Q uaq ue s ub H e rculeo s acratus numine Portus U r e t ru e cava P ela us non Corns in illum g p g , Jus habet au t Z e hirus so us sua littora urba , p , l t t

Circius et tuta rohibet sta ions ournei . , p t M

The present town of Villa Franca was built and settled in

of . of the thirteenth century , by order Charles II king the

Sicilies an d Of f bar , count Provence , in order to de end the

f m d of a bour ro the escents the Sar cens , who , at that time, f f in ested the coast . The inhabitants were removed hither rom

a at on to of nother town , situ ed the p a mountain in the neigh bo rhoo m u d h ha . , whic those pirates d destroyed Some ru s

of old In bar. the town are still extant . order to secure the

ff c a d of bour still more e e tually , Emm nuel Philibert , uke f i n b of r Savoy , built the ort the eginning the last centu y, 2 S 37 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

together with the mole where the galleys are moored . As I f a on f of a said be ore , Vill Franca is built the ace a b rren rock , w a shed by the sea ; and there is not an acre of plain ground f f un o . u o s within a mile it In s mmer , the reflection the from the rocks must make it intolerably hot ; for even at this of f fu time the year, I walked mysel into a pro se sweat , by

going about a quarter of a mile to see the galleys . ’ our fri s Pray , remember me to ends at A , and believe

me to be ever yours .

XV LETTER .

.MADA M N ic Janua r 4. , e, y 3 , 1 76

I o r fa 1 n y p vour which I received by Mr M , you re of a s a mind me my promise , to communicate the rem rk I h ve still to make on the French nation ; and at the s ame time ou n f too f y sig i y your opinion , that I am severe in my ormer

. Y ou observations even hint a suspicion , that this severity of is owing to some personal cause resentment ; but, I protest , I have no particular cause of animosity against an individual

of a . r th t country I have neither Obligation to, nor quar el with, any subject of France ; and when I meet with a Frenchman of f worthy my esteem , I can receive him into my riendship f for f n with as much cordiality, as I could eel any ellow citize f of the same merit . I even respect the nation or the number i n of g reat men it has produced all the arts and sciences . I F f for respect the rench o ficers , in particular, their gallantry an d valour ; and especially for that generous humanity which they exercise towards their enemies , even amidst the horrors of war . This liberal spirit is the only circumstance

n . of ancient chivalry , which I think was worth preservi g

h ad f a I t ormerly flourished in Engl nd , but was almost ex

in uish ed i n of a a t g a succession civil w rs, which are lways

of . of productive cruelty and rancour It was Henry IV .

- France (a real knight errant) who revived it in Europe . He possessed that grea tness of mind which can forgive injuries of the deepest dye : and as he had also the faculty of dis tin ui shin f f g g characters, he ound his account in avouring w ith his friendship and confidence some of those who had

S UG 374 TRAVEL THRO H FRANCE AND ITALY .

out a f walks ; the antagonist underst nds the hint , and ollows if w him into the street , where they justle as by accident , dra

and one of or a their swords , them is either killed dis bled ,

f ff can h . be ore any e ectual means be u sed to part them . W at of a a no ever may be the issue the comb t, the m gistrate takes

n a of l cog iz nce it ; at least , it is interpreted into an accidenta

rencounter, and no penalty is incurred on either side . Thus, of f a the pu rpose the law is entirely de e ted , by a most ridi trifle s culons and cruel conniv ance . The merest in conver

a a or of s ation , rash word , a distant hint , even look smile f one of contempt , is su ficient to produce these combats ; but

of h of a lie injuries a deeper dye, suc as terms repro ch , the

or of . direct, a blow , even the menace a blow , must be dis f f a . o ar cussed with more orm lity In any these cases , the p of e ties agree to meet in the dominions another prince , wher f of they can murder each other without ear punishment . An f w o ficer who is struck , or even threatened with a blo , must l or not be quiet , until he either kil s his antagonist , loses his

f of Nis s ard own life . A riend mine (a ) who was in the

of one of r service France , told me , that some years ago, thei

a of . c ptains , in the heat passion , struck his lieutenant They fought immediately : the lieuten ant was wounded and dis i an ff a . t a armed As was ront th t could not be made up , he o o of n l out n sooner rec vered his wounds , tha he cal ed the f captain a second tim e . In a word they ought five times f at a be ore the combat proved decisive ; l st , the lieutenant

was left dead on the spot . This was an event that s uffi cie n t ly proved the absurdity of the punctilio which gave rise to a w h o u d it . The poor gentlem n was ins lted , and outrage by " of a f f n e the brutality the ggressor , ound himsel under the ces sity of giving him a further occasion to take away his f of few li e . Another adventure the same kind h appened a f years ago in this place . A French o ficer having threatened

f l and b to strike another , a orma challenge ensued ; it eing

n of agreed that they should fight u til one them dropped, each provided himself with a couple of pioneers to dig his one of grave on the spot . They engaged just without the of of r n of gates Nice, in presence a g eat umber spectators, S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 75

nd f sur rism f w a ought with p g ury , until the ground as drench

e d . A t one of m with their blood length the stumbled , and f f ell ; upon which the other, who ound himself mortally a J wounded , dvancing , and dropping his point , said , e ’ ’ d nne ce ue tu m té te o q as o . I give thee that which thou ’ f m SO hast taken ro me . saying he dropped dead upon the

field . The other, who had been the person insulted, was s o a d ngerously wounded, that he could not rise . Some of f the spectators carried him orthwith to the beach , and putting him into a boat, conveyed him by sea to Antibes . The body of a a as his ntagonist was denied christian buri l , he died with out a u a bsol tion , and every body llowed that his soul went

: n of to hell but the gentleme the army declared, that he died like a man of honour . Should a man he never so well

for inclined to make atonement in a peaceable manner, an

a of or f insult given in the he t passion , in the ury of intoxi

it t . cation , canno be received Even an involuntary trespass , f or of rom ignorance absence mind , must be cleansed with

. a of our w blood A cert in noble lord country , when he as on lf yet a commoner, his travels , involved himse in a dilem of of ma this sort at the court Lorrain . He had been riding out a , and, strolling long a public walk, in a brown study,

- with his horse whip in his hand , perceived a caterpillar on a Of u f crawling the b ck a marq is , who chanced to be be ore

Of i m i f him . He never thought the pet t a tr e bu t li ting up his whip , in order to kill the insect , laid it across his

a shoulders with a crack, that al rmed all the company in the ’ a . a i n w lk The m rquis s sword was produced a moment,

a i n a of f and the ggressor great h zard his li e , as he had no

of f f r . weapon de ence . He was no sooner w aked rom his e v erie ff a than he begged pardon , and o ered to m ke all proper

for concessions what he had done through mere inadvertency .

h ad The marquis would have admitted his excuses , there been any precedent of such an affront w ashed a way without blood. A conclave of honour was immediately assembled ;

f a a an and , a ter long disputes , they greed th t involuntary ’ ff f m s uch a ki nd ma n d u n tel bomme O ence, especially ro of , , t e might be atoned by concessions . Tha you may have som 3 6 S T RO H 7 TRAVEL H UG FRANCE AND ITALY.

idea of the sm all beginning from which many of those gis an tic a one a g quarrels arise , I sh ll recount that l tely happen at f of who ed Lyons , as I had it rom the mouth a person e ar was an and eye witness of the transaction . Two French

at a of men , a public ordin ry , stunned the rest the company h . one of a u r with t eir loquacity At length them , with s pe ’ ” cilious air , asked the other s name I never tell my name, ‘ ’ ‘ said he, but in a whisper . You may have very good ’ a l for a . re sons keeping it secret , replied the first I will te l ’ : e you , resumed the other with these words he ros ; and him going round to , pronounced , loud enough to be heard

‘ ’ a - J e m a elle P i er r e P a s a n et by the whole comp ny , p ; ” nous etcs m t i m er tin ent. SO a a k out : the p s ying, he w l ed f him interrogator ollowed into the street , where they justled,

d w w n a . o re their s ords , and e g ged He who asked the questi n was run through the body but his relations were so power f l fl u . , that the victor was obliged to y his country He was tried and condemned in his absence ; his goods were confis cated ; his wife broke her heart ; his children were reduced m f I to begg ary ; and he hi sel is now starving in exile . n

a all a a of England , we have not yet dopted the impl c bility

. a ma the punctilio A gentlem n y be insulted even with . a

f a e a f a blow , and survive , a ter h ving onc h zarded his li e gainst of our the aggressor . The laws honour in country do not oblige him either to sl ay the person from whom he received

or to Of . the injury , even fight to the last drop his blood

a of n w h o One finds no ex mples duels amo g the Romans , were certainly as brave an d as delicate in their notions of

as . e a honour the French Corn lius Nepos tells us , th t a f a hi s amous Athenian general , having dispute with col

a of a a a man of a h le gue , who was Sp rt , fiery disposition , t is H d last lifted up his cane to strike him . a this h appened to

etit ma i tr e a : a French p , de th must have ensued but mark f — A far f a what ollowed the thenian , rom resenting the outr ge ,

a entlemand ike a in what is now called g m nner , said , do, ’ strike if you please ; but hear me . He never dreamed Of ’ cutting the Lace demonian s throa t ; but bore with his pas s ionate of f temper, as the infirmity a riend , who had a thou f sand good qualities to overbalance that de ect .

378 TRAVEL S T H ROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

by any previous quarrel , be subject to the same penalties l if any man is ki led in a duel , let his body be hanged upon i for t a publ c gibbet a certain time , and then given o th e sur

: an d geons let his antagonist be hanged as a murderer , dis s ected also ; and some mark of infamy be set on the memory f of both . I apprehend such regulations would put an e fe ctual of stop to the practice duelling , which nothing but f of f for am the ear in amy can support ; I persuaded , that no being capable of reflection would prosecute the trade of

of own f if a a assassination at the risk his li e , this h z rd was at the same time reinforced by the certain prospect of in f an d . of amy ruin Every person sentiment would , in that

w ffi a case, allo , that an o cer, who in duel robs a deserving

of of of fa woman her husband , a number children their

f of of fel ther, a amily its support , and the community a

w - f lo citizen , has as little merit to plead rom exposing his own a or a person , as a highw yman housebre ker , who every day risks his life to rob or plunder that which is not of half

the importance to society . I think it was from the buc caneers of America that the English have learned to abolish one solecism in the practice of duelling : those adventurers decided their person al quarrels with pistols ; an d this im provement has been adopted in Grea t Britain with good

a and a t of success ; though in Fr nce , other p r s the con

inent a f of r . t , it is looked upon as proo their barba ity the m a of It is , however, only circu st nce duelling which

of savours common sense, as it puts all mankind upon

Old h a level, the wit the young , the weak with the strong ,

the unwieldy with the nimble , and the man who knows not

a h s a das s i n h as how to hold sword wit the p , who practised ’ l i n a fencing from the cradle . What g ory is there man s d vanquishing an a dversary over whom he h as a manifest a

vantage ? To abide the issue of a combat in this case , does not even require th a t moderate share of resolution which na

ture has indulged to her common children . Accordingly , ’ m an we have seen many instances of a coward s provoking a

of our of honour to battle . In the reign second Charles ,

when duels flourished in all their absurdity, and the seconds O I TRAVEL S THR UGH FRANCE AND TALY. 379

rinCI als u fough t while their p p were engaged , Villiers , d ke of Buckingham , not content with having debauched the of h b and b a countess S rews ury , pu lishing her sh me , took all

of n opportunities provoking the earl to single combat , hopi g he should h ave an easy conquest , his lords hip being a puny

ff for little creature, quiet, ino ensive, and every way unfit on such pers onal contests . He ridiculed him all occasions ; and at last declared in public company , that there was no glory in cuckolding Shrewsbury , who had not spirit to r e an sent the injury . This was insult which could not be

a overlooked . The e rl sent him a challenge ; and they agreed of to fight, at Barns Elms , in presence two gentlemen , whom f they chose for their seconds . All the our engaged at the same time : the first thrust was fatal to the earl of Shrews ’ bury ; and his friend killed the duke s second at the same

h ou i instant . Bucking am , elated with his exploit, set t m ’ for Cliefden mediately the earl s seat at , where he lay with f f a of of his wi e, a ter having bo sted the murder her husband, as whose blood he shewed her upon his sword , a trophy of of his prowess . But this very duke Buckingham was little n better than a poltroon at bottom . Whe the gallant earl of him Ossory challenged to fight in Chelsea fields, he crossed t the water to Battersea, where he pretended o wait for his : of lordship and then complained to the house lords , that him Ossory had given the rendezvous, and did n ot keep his k appointment . He new the house would interpose in the not quarrel , and he was disappointed . Their lordships oh li e d to of g them both give their word honour, that their quarrel should have no other consequences . I ought to make an apology for having troubled a lady with so many observations on a subject so unsuitable to the softness of the fair sex ; but I know you cannot be indiffer ent to any thing that so nearly affects the interests of hu a h f m nity , whic I can sa ely aver have alone suggested every n u thing which has bee said by , madam , yo r very humble

servant . S O ’ TRAVEL THR UGH FRANCE A ND I TA L A Q

LETTER XVI .

DEA R DO CTOR ic M a » , N e, y 2 , n ot .

A F E W out of s days ago, I rode with two gentlem en thi co m Of f ~ untry, to see a strea water which was ormerly con v e ed of Cemene lion y in an aqueduct to the ancient city , f a a a rom whence this pl ce is dist nt bout a mile , though se arated p by abrupt rocks and deep hollows , which last are

of a . here honoured with the name v lleys The water , which is f the exquisitely cool , and light, and pure , gushes rom middle of a rock by a hole which leads to a subterranean

a of h a queduct c rried through the middle the mountain . T is is n a Roma work , and the more I considered it , appeared the more stupendous . A peasant who lives upon the spot ,

told us, he had entered by this hole at eight in the morning,

far f u af be and advanced so , that it was o r in the ternoon a h f h e out . a ore came He said he w lked in the w ter , throug

a a f of a - a regul r c nal ormed a h rd stone , lined with a kind of cement , and vaulted over head ; but so high in most

in the ' bed of parts , he could stand upright ; yet , others ,

w as l the canal so fi led with earth and stones , that he was

. air obliged to stoop in passing He said , that there were

on e of e holes at certain distances (and, indeed , I saw thes

‘ not far from the present issue) that there were some open on ings and stone seats the sides , and here and there figures of fbrme d of men stone, with hammers and working tools

a t f in their hands . I am p to believe the ellow romanced a

in a little, order to render his adventure the more m rvellous

f a a en but I am certainly in ormed, th t several persons h ve tere d this passage , and proceeded a considerable way by the of if light torches , without arriving at the source , which ,

ma of at . we y believe the tradition the country , is the dis tanee of eight leagues from this opening ; but this is alto

' n ta zn de gether incredible . The stream is now called La Fo

’

Mum zlle a f . ff . , and is c re ully conducted by di erent branches into the adjacent vineyards and gardens for watering the f . O n o ground the side the same mountain , more souther l nce of f n y, at the dista hal a mile, there is a other still more

382 T S O R RAVEL THR UGH F ANCE AND ITALY .

oval figure ; the longest diameter extending to about one

f and - hundred and thirteen eet, the shortest to eighty eight ;

not for of but I will answer the exactness the measurement . of In the centre it , there was a square stone with an iron

ring , to which I suppose the wild beasts were tied , to pre

of a vent their springing upon the specta tors . Som e the se ts

of one remain , with two opposite entrances , consisting each

a m a : t large gate, and two later l s aller doors , rched here is also a considerable portion of the external wall ; but no co f lumns or o . other ornaments architecture Hard by , in

of Guber natis the garden the count de , I saw the remains of f of a bath , ronting the portal the temple , which I have described in a former letter ; and here were some shafts of

of i a or marble pillars , particularly a capital the Cor nthi n f f o . der , beauti ully cut , white alabaster Here the count f of t ound a large quantity fine marble , which he has conver

a as ed to various uses ; and some mutil ted statues , bronze

well as marble . The peasant shewed me some brass and silver medals which he has picked up at different times in labouring the ground : together with several oblong beads

f as - R o o coloured glass , which were used ear rings by the

a a a of f . man l dies ; and a sm ll se l agate, very much de aced Two of the medals were of Maxi mian and Gallienus ; the

rest were so consumed , that I could not read the legend . Y ou on such know , that public occasions , as games , and f of w certain sacrifices , hand uls medals were thro n among the people ; a practice which accounts for the great number f e which have been already ound in this district . I saw som

subterranean passages , which seemed to have been common sewers ; and a great number of old walls still standing along

of P a lion . the brink a precipice, which overhangs the g

The peasants tell me , that they never dig above a yard in

or . depth , without finding vaults cavities All the vine

- for yards and garden grounds , a considerable extent , are vaulted underneath ; and all the ground that produces their

f - ff grapes , ruit , and garden stu , is no more than the crum l of old h bled ime and rubbish Roman buildings , mixed wit fr manure brought om Nice . This ancient town command TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 383 ed a most noble prospect of the se a ; but is altogether In

f - If ou e accessible by any kind o wheel carriage . y mak

f on ou the shi t to climb to it horseback , y cannot descend to

n of plai again , without running the risk breaking your neck . About seven or eight miles on the other side of Nice are of has the remains another Roman monument , which greatly

of suffered from the barbarity successive ages . It was a trophy erected by the senate of Rome in honour of Augustus

a a f C es r, when he had totally subdued all the erocious nations of Trum ulini these maritime Alps ; such as the p Camuni ,

Vennone te s Is narci Br euni & C. of , , , It stands upon the top

of n ow a mountain which overlooks the town Monaco , and

of old exhibits the appearance an ruined tower . There is a of h description what it was in an Italian manuscript, by whic

a a f of two it ppears to have been a be uti ul edifice stories, a a adorned with columns and trophies in lto relievo, with

n f statue of Augustus C ae sar on the top . O one o the sides was an of l inscription , some words which are stil legible, upon the fragment of a marble found close to the Old build i in ing ; but the whole is preserved in Pliny , who g ves it

2 0 . these words, lib . iii , cap .

1 M P E R A TO R I C E SAR ! D I I . . A V G. V F P O N T.

A . I M P . I v . R I V T S . x v I . M X x T B N I C . P O E T n

s . P . Q . R .

Q on E i v s D v C Tv A V SP I C I I SQ . GE N TE s A L I NE v , P

O M N E S , Q V E A M A R I SV P E R O A D I N F E R U M F E R TI

- N E BA N T , SV E I M P E R I V M s o . n o. SV N T R E DA C .

G E N T E s AL PI N E D E V I C TzE . T R U M P I LI N I C A MV

- V N I , v E N N O N E TE s . I SN A R C T, DR E N I , N A V N E s ,

F O C V N A T E s , V I N D E L I C O R V M GE N TE S Q V A T V O R ,

C O N SV A N E TE S , V I R V C I N A T E S , L I C A T E s , C A TE

- N I N A T E s , A B I S O T E S , R V GV SC , SV A N E T E S , C A

D RI x E N TE s , L E P O N T I I , V I R E R I , N A M T V TV A TE S , S EDV N I , V E R A G R I , SA L A S S I , A C i A O N E s , V I N o M E DV L L I , v e rN I , C A T R I G E S , B R I G A I , s o t

- V N TI I , E R RO DV N T I I , N E M A L O N E S , E D E N E T E s ,

rE T R I U L A T I E SV RI A N I , V E A MI N I , G A LL I T , L , E I Tv E M E N TV RI E C TI N I , V E R GV N N I . G v R I , N ,

V I . O R A TE LL I , N E R U S C I , V E LA V N I , S E TR

Pliny , however , is mistaken in placing this inscription

on Au us ta r ce lor ia A s ta a trophy near the g p , now called o , m in Pied ont, where , indeed , there is a triumphal arch , but 84i T S 3 RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

no inscription . This noble monument of antiquity was first of and af all destroyed by fire, terwards , in Gothic times , f converted into a kind of ortifi cation . The marbles belong ing to it were either employed in adorning the church of the a v h of djoining illage whic is called Turbia , a corruption

a a - off be Troph e , or converted into tomb stones , or carried to

one tw f . n preserved in or o churches o Nice At prese t, the

h as a a f - h work the ppe rance o a ruinous watch tower , wit Gothic battlements ; and as such stands undistinguished by those who travel by sea from hence to Genoa and other ports I of Italy . I think I have now described all the anti qui ti es n

of or ca the neighbourhood Nice , except some catacombs ‘ i at . verns dug in a rock S Hospice , wh ch Busching , in his

n - geography , has described as a stro g town and sea port , though in fact there is not the least vestige either of town or village . It is a point of land almost Opposite to the tower of of f a Turbia , with the mountains which it orms bay, w of here there is a great and curious fishery the tunny fish , f ff f armed o the king o Sardinia . Upon this point there is a

- a watch tower still kept in rep ir, to give notice to the people

a in the neighbourhood , in case any B rbary corsairs should i appear on the coast . The catacombs were in all probabil ty

f a of for dug, in ormer times , as pl ces retreat the inhabitants

of f upon sudden descents the Saracens , who greatly in ested

these seas for several successive centuries . Many curious and o a persons have entered them , pr ceeded a consider ble way by torch - light without arriving at the further extremi t of y ; and the tradition the country is , that they reach as far as the ancient city of Ce menelion ; but this is an idle

supposition , almost as ridiculous as that which ascribes them

Q

his w as former a considerab e tow n ca ed illa Martis and retends T ly l ll V , p to th e honour of h avi n iven bir th to ul us H elvius who s ucceeded om mo g g A , C dus as em eror of Rom a e rtinax which h e a c uired from p e , by th e n m of P e , q hi in s obs t ate refusal of th a t d i gnity w h en it was forced upon h i m by th e senate .

Y ou know this m an thou h f ver low birth osses s ed man exce ent ua . , , g o y , p y ll q lities and was base murdered b th e raetori an uards a t the insti a tion of , ly y p g , g

Didius Ju ianus . For m ar t I cou d never read w ith out emotion th at ce e l y p , l l b rated eulo lum of th e s enate wh o exc aim ed after his death P ey ti nace im g , l , , er a n le s ecur i v u imus u in timui atre i e a ti seuatus air s p , , em em mus , p p , p e , p ' e mmum bozzorum.

38 D 6 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N ITALY .

. a 1 388 of n vence In the ye r , the city and county Nice bei g

f of z re but ill protected by the amily Duraz o , voluntarily su

d A madaeus d ren ered themselves to , surnamed the Red , uke of S avoy ; and since that period they h ave continued as part f’ of otentate s that p dominions , except at such times as they

s of have been overrun and po sessed by the power France, which hath always been a troublesome neighbour to this

rra onian s country . The castle was begun by the A g count of v ft Pro ence . and a erwards enlarged by several successive

of the dukes Savoy , so as to be deemed impregnable, until f modern method of besieging began to t ake place . A ruit less attempt was made upon it in the year 1 543 by the French and Turks in conjunction ; but it w as reduced seve

af a . ral times ter th t period , and is now in ruins The cele

brate d a m a engineer V uban being co m nded by Louis XIV . f r f f to give in a plan o orti ying Nice, proposed that the river

P a lion a ne w as g should be turned into channel , so to sur f t round the town to the north , and all into the harbour ; tha

P a lion w of l where the g now runs to the west ard the city wal s ,

c be fi - there should be a deep dit h to lled with sea water , an d f of f that the ortress should be built to the westward this osse . These particulars might be executed at no very great ex

e ff th pense ; but I appreh nd they would be ine ectual , as e town is c ommanded by every hill in the neighbourhood ;

and the exhalations from stagnating sea- water would infal li l b y render the air unwholesome . Notwithstanding the a i of fe w of undoubted ntiqu ty Nice , very monuments that

a antiquity now rem in . The inhabitants say they were ei ther destroyed by the Saracens in their successive descen ts

a a in e upon the co st , by the b rbarous nations th ir repeated

or f f incursions , used in orti ying the castle , as well as in build in of Ceme nelion was g other edifices . The city , however, ne subject to the same disasters, and even entirely ruined ;

v ertheless a of , we still find rem ins its ancient splendour . There have been likewise a fe w stones found at Nice with ancient inscriptions ; but there is nothing of this kind stand i of ing, unless we g ve the name antiquity to a marble cross

on th e f fr m . road to Provence, about hal a mile o the city TRA v E Ls TH ROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 387

n a It stands upo a pretty high pedestal with steps, under

or f i a pretty stone cupola dome , supported by our Ion c pill rs,

n . of m s o the spot where Charles V emperor Ger any , Franci

of l . f c I . France, and Pope Pau I I agreed to have a con eren e , e in order to determine all their disputes . The emperor cam w fu hither by sea, with a po er l fleet , and the French king

the of a m . by land , at head nu erous army All the endea vOurs of ff but his holiness , however, could not e ect a peace ;

f M z rai afli r ms t o te n . e e they agreed to a truce years , tha these two great princes never s aw one another on this occa s ion ; and that this shyness was owing to the management of f d the pope , whose private designs might have been rustrate w f of the h ad they come to a personal intervie . In the ront colonade a there is a small stone, with an inscription in L tin , h f a whic is so high , and so much de aced, th t I cannot read it . In the sixteenth century there was a college erected at

of for . Nice by Emmanuel Philibert, duke Savoy , granting of law 1 6 1 4 a s degrees to students ; and in the year , Ch rle

f re~ . n of o Emanuel I instituted the se ate Nice, consisting a p s ident and of a certain number senators, who are distinguish ed by their purple robes and other ensigns of authority. of f They administer justice , having the power li e and death , of are not only through the whole county Nice , but causes f evoked rom Oneglia , and some other places, to their tri dem ier r es r t f m bunal , which is the o , ro whence there is no

. a of appeal The command nt, however, by virtue his mi litar him y power and unrestricted authority , takes upon to u punish individ als by imprisonment , corporal pains , and a or oh b nishment, without consulting the senate, indeed

f f a an nu serving any orm o trial . The only redress gainst y just exercise of this absolute power is by complaint to the king ; and you' know what chance a poor man has for being in redressed this manner .

W af s a s u ith respect to religion , I may s ely y, that here perstition reigns under the darkest shades of ignorance and nun prejudice . I think there are ten convents and three neries within and without the walls of Nice ; and among 888 TRA VE Ls TH ROUGH F RANCE A N D ITALY.

“ them all I n ever could hear of one man who had made any

tolerable advances in any kind of human learning . All cc cle sias tics f of are exempted rom any exertion civil power, being under the immediate protection and a uthority of th e

or v of ff a a of bishop his icar . The bishop Nice is su r g n the archbishop of A mbrun in France ; and the revenues of the see amount to between five and six hundred pounds ster f h . ffi o ling We have likewise an o ce the inquisition , thoug I do not hear that it presumes to execute a ny acts of juris ’ th diction without the king s special permission . All e

f r of churches are sanctuaries o all kinds criminals , except those guilty of high treason ; and the priests are extremely

l i . jea ous of their privileges n this particular They receive, b f with open arms , murderers , ro bers , smugglers , raudulent

f of m a bankrupts , and elons every deno in tion and never give them up until after having stipulated for their lives an d

liberty . I need not enlarge upon the pernicious consequences

of f a this in amous prerog tive, calculated to raise and extend the power and influence of the Roman church on the ruins f a f w o d . morality and good or er I saw ello , who had three days before murdered his wife in the last month of preg the c o on nancy, taking air with great omp sure and serenity the steps of a church in Florence ; and nothing is more com mon than to see the most execrable villains diverting them i s elves n the cloisters of some convents at Rome . mar uisses u ba Nice abounds with noblesse, q , co nts , and

. Of or f f mi a rons these , three our a lies are really respect ble ; s ne vi h mi nes f o the re t are o , sprung rom b urgeois, who have s a ff o aved little money by their di erent ccupations , and rais e d themselves to the rank of noblesse by purchase . One is descended from an avocat ; another from an apothecary ; a t f f f f a e u hird rom a retailer o wine ; a ourth rom . dealer in h ovie c s em - t a a o l e ; and , I told , here is actu lly c unt at Vi l a f man Fr nche, whose ather sold macaroni in the streets . A

mar uis ite for in this country may buy a q , or a county , the of or f e value three our hundred pounds sterling, and the titl follows the fief : but he may purchase lettr es de n obless e for

r or f . six hun about thi ty orty guineas In Savoy, there are

3 0 S A 9 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE N D ITALY .

Our consul , who is a very honest man , told me, he had

f - - lived our and thirty years in the country , without having o or a an f nce eat dr nk in y o their houses . The noblesse of Nice cannot leave the country without

f : a express leave rom the king and this le ve , when obtained ,

for not on n is a limited time , which they dare exceed , pai f ’ o r . incurring his majesty s displeasu e They must , there f ore , endeavour to find amusements at home ; and this , I for of e apprehend , would be no easy task people an activ

s or . of the pirit restless disposition True it is , the religion

country supplies a never - failing fund of pastime to those who h ave a ny relish for devotion ; and this is here a prevailing

- ta . of w ste We have had transient Visits a puppet sho ,

- t s trolling musicians, and rope dancers ; but they did no like

t e of . heir quarters, and decamp d without beat drum In the s or of e ummer, about eight nine at night , part the nobless ma a l P are y be seen assembled in place cal ed the ; which is, of e f of s indeed , a sort a str et ormed by a row very paltry house

n one on of - o side, and the other , by part the town wall ,

w fr m of s ea hich screens it o a prospect the , the only object ou v th that could render it agreeable . Here y may percei e e e a of e s o noblesse stretch d in p irs upon logs wood , lik many

- s eals upon the rocks by moon light, each dame with her

ci cis be for a f o , you must underst nd, this I talian ashion pre Vails at Nice among all ranks of people ; and there is not

s uch a passion as j ealousy known . The husband and the cicis beo live together as sworn brothers ; and the wife and the mistres s embrace each other with marks of the warmest

to a . affection . I do not choose enter into p rticulars I can not open the scandalous chronicle of Nice without hazard of

contamination . With respect to delicacy and decorum ,

’ ‘ ou f f y may peruse Dean Swi t s description o the Yahoos , and then you will have some idea of the sp or clzer ie tha t distin

uishes a a of . l g the g ll ntry Nice But the Park is not the only ’ of for our place public resort noblesse in a summer s evening .

s one of our a ou Ju t without g tes , y will find them seated in on h of ditches the hig way side , serenaded with the croaking the e s and of as i frogs, and b ll braying mules and ses cont nu 1 TRAVEL S THROUGH F RANCE AND I TALY. 39

id ally passing in a perpetual cloud of dust . Bes es thése ‘ con ver s a z io ue a musements , there is a public every evening ’ e at the commandant s house, called the government , wher

f f c » those noble personages play at cards or ar things . In ar n a t e b l w c ival time, there is also this sam government a a l t i e

- - or a a on . A t as thrice week , c rried by subscription this s embl e to y every person , without distinction , is permitt d f are l dance in masquerade ; but a ter dancing, they ob iged

to if to . unmask , and bourgeois , retire No individual can

i e a h of th g v all , without obtaining a permission and guard e c ommandant and then his house is open to all masks , with out distinction , who are provided with tickets , which tickets ’ a a are sold by the command nt s secretary , at five sols piece, If and delivered to the guard at the door . I have a mind t f to en ertain my particular riends , I cannot have more than of In n a couple violins and , that case, it is called a co ver

Though the king of Sardinia takes all opportunities to distinguish the subjects of Great Britai n with particular f to o - e t marks respects , I have seen nough be convinced , tha our nation is looked upon with an evil eye by the people of

“ N f u ice ; and this arises partly rom religious prej dices , and f m of our partly ro envy , occasioned by a ridiculous notion

s . For owe on uperior wealth my Own part, I them nothing the score of civilities ; and therefore I shall say nothing more on f m h the subject, lest I should be tempted to deviate ro t at t h f ha v emperance and impartiality , whic I would ain hope e

d of fa t f hitherto characterize the remarks , dear sir, your i h ul

humble servant .

LETTER XVIII .

E A D T R ic M a 1 4 D R OC O , N e, y 2 , 76 .

I W to B him ROTE in May Mr at Geneva, and gave what information he desired to h ave touching the con ve ni e m of ai for ees Nice . I shall now enter into the same det l , the benefit of such of your friends or patients as may have occa n sio to try this climate . 39 2 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY .

f of f a The journey rom Calais to Nice, our persons in

a or two a a on co ch , post ch ises , with servant horseback , a be f for one tr velling post, may per ormed with ease about and E i hundred twenty pounds , including every expense . h a or l n t er at Cal is , at Paris, you will always find a trave li g a or ma for or f co ch berlin , which you y buy thirty orty

guineas, and this will serve very well to reconvey you to w your o n country . In the town of Nice you will find no ready furnished

for fa one of lodgings a whole mily . Just without the gates , f for there are two houses to be let ready urnished , about five ’ or f loui d es per month . As or the country houses in thi s n b a eigh ourhood, they are d mp in winter, and generally nu without chimneys ; and in summer, they are rendered f inhabitable by the heat and the vermin . I you hire a tene for ment in Nice, you must take it a year certain and this w ill cost you about twenty pounds sterling . For this price a of a I have a ground floor p ved with brick , consisting two a of kitchen , l rge halls , a couple good rooms with chim

a for - neys , three large closets th t serve bed chambers , and ’ s d - a and for ressing room , butler s room , three apartments

or a servants , lumber, stores , to which we ascend by n rrow d n . woo e stairs I have likewise two small gardens , well

n co stocked with ora ges , lemons, peaches , figs , grapes ,

i h s a - r n t . , s llad , and pot herbs It is supplied with a draw

of a a of well good w ter , and there is nother in the vestibule

h ‘ t e . Y ou house , which is cool , large, and magnificent may hire furniture for such a tenement for a bout two guineas a month ; but I chos e r ather to buy wh at was necessary ; a d n this cost me about sixty pounds . I suppose it will fetch a a f me bout h l the money when I leave the place . It is very f di ficult to find a tolerable cook at Nice . A common maid ,

of for or f who serves the people the country , three our livres

m n f m a onth , will not live with an E glish a ily under eight or . ar e f and ten They all slovenly , sloth ul , unconscionable

c . l heats The markets at Nice are tolerably well supp ied . f f Their bee , which comes rom Piedmont, is pretty good , d w an e . I e k have it all the year n the winter, w have li e?

‘ 3 44 S N A N D 9 TRAVEL THROUGH FRA CE ITALY.

Nice is not without variety of fish ; though they are not

of e a counted so good in their kinds as those the ocean . S ls ,

a a . are and flat fish , in gener l, are sc rce Here some mullets ,

an d m d i both grey red . We someti es see the ory , wh ch is

a S t. P ie tr i a mackarel. c lled o ; with rock fish , bon t , and The gurn ard appears pretty often ; and there IS plenty of a

of a w h a but h as not kind l rge whiting, hic e ts pretty well ;

the delicacy of that which is caught on our coas t . O ne of

fi s h of al le l u a b or the best this country is c led o p , out two

ou h and welhflavoured . three p nds in weig t ; white, firm , A wa f r th e mous tle b nother , no y in e ior to it , is , a out the

am of a - an d t t s e size , a d rk grey colour , shor blun snout, a f the growing thinner and fl tter rom shoulder downwards,

so as to resemble a soal at the tail . This cannot be the

us tela Of h s ea m the ancients , whic is supposed to be the too f v vr e or l lamprey . Here are ound the y , , as we ca l it, for weaver ; remarkable its long sharp spines, so dangerous f a of to the fingers o the fishermen . We have bundan ce the

s ee ie or e uttle Of in p , fish , which the people this country e of l e de mer hi h make a delicat ragout ; as also the p o yp , w c a f i i s an ugly anim l , with long eelers, l ke tails , which they

often wind about the legs of the fishermen . They are stew

- and cow . The ed with Onions , eat something like heel

’ ’ ff ecr zmss e de mer a market sometimes a ords the , which is

a of a a lobster without cl ws, sweetish taste ; and there are

few . rock oysters , very small, and very rank Sometimes of a cc the fishermen find under water , pieces a very h rd

m a of of ent , like pl ster Paris , which contain a kind mussel,

c a la da tte f a . lled , rom its resemblance to date These petre

fa of a a f h ctions are commonly a tri ngul r orm , and may weig

or f one of about twelve fi teen pounds each , and them may

a of m cont in a dozen these ussels , which have nothing extra

o a ih or o x u rdin ry the taste flavour, th ugh e tremely c rious,

a s f a a Of ound live and juicy , in the he rt a rock , almost as h n ard as marble , without any visible communicatio with

ir or the a . for the water I take it granted , however, that

and s of the inclosing cement is porous, admits the finer part

s . In the m se c urrounding fluid order to reach us ls, this e T RAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY . 39 5 ment must be broke with large hammers ; and it may be not of truly said , the kernel is worth the trouble cracking of h r the shell . Among the fish this country , t ere is a ve y

of for a ugly animal the eel species , which might pass ser f a a of pent : it is o a dusky bl ck colour , m rked with spots f al yellow, about eighteen inches or two eet long . The It ians c all it mur ena ; but whether it is the fish which h ad the s am e

a to . n me among the ancient Romans , I cannot pretend deter

w as mine . The ancient murena counted a great delicacy , a n d was kep t in ponds for extraordinary occasions . Juli us Cmsar borrowed six thousand for one entertainment : but I

i was . of magine this the river lamprey The murena _ this

no n . country is in esteem , and only eate by the poor people C rawfi sh and trout are rarely found in the rivers among the fis h mountains . The sword is much esteemed in Nice, ’ al l em er eur or f but and c led p , about six seven eet long ; I have never seen it They are very scarce ; and when d taken are generally conceale ; because the head belongs . to of the commandant , who has likewise the privilege buying ~ w or the best fish at a very lo price . F which reas on the

choice pieces are concealed by the fishermen , and sent pri v ately to Piedmont or Genoa . But the chief fisheries on this

a of a . co st are the s rdines, anchovies , and tunny These are taken in small qu antities all the year : but spring and sum

mer is the season when they mostly abound . In June and

of f fi s hin - July , a fleet about fi ty g boats put to sea every ’ a a n evening about eight o clock , and c tch nchovies in imme se

a . a a i n one qu ntities One sm ll boat sometimes t kes night ,

- five a twenty rup , mounting to six hundred weight ; but it

in must be observed , that the pound here , as well as other a of t f o . p rts Italy , consis s but twelve ounces Anchovies , besides their making a considerable article in the commerce f o f . Nice, are a great resource in all amilies The noblesse

on a and bourgeois sup sallad and anchovies , which are e ten on all a a d their me gre d ys . The fishermen an mariners all

a f a long this coast have scarce any other ood but dry bre d ,

Since I wrote the above etter I have eaten s evera times of th i s fish l , l , h i w ch is as white as the nest veal and e xtreme d e i cate. Th e em e fi , ly l p ror as

wmate s with the tunn fish and is a wa s a in heir com an . y , l y t ken t p y 89 6 T RAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

a fe w a v n with pickled ncho ies ; and when the fish is eate , they rub their crusts with the brine . Nothing can be more delicious th an fresh anchovies fried in oil : I prefer them to

of . the smelts the Thames I need not mention , that the

an d n l e sardines a chovies are caught in nets salted , barre l d, and exported into all the differen t kingdoms and states of a fa i . n Europe The sardines , however, are l rgest and ttest

of a the month of September . A company adventurers h ve farmed the tunny fishery of the king for six years a mono poly for which they pay about three thousand pounds ster

ider ble ' x n . ar e cons a e ense for li g They at a very p nets ,

a an d a a . a bo ts , ttend nce Their nets are disposed in very t c i a th e of S . e ur ous m nner across small bay Hospic , in this

. are neighbourhood , where the fish chiefly resort They never

n : removed , except in the wi ter , and when they want repair but there are avenues for the fish to enter and pass from one m a . an inclosure to nother There is a in a boat , who con s t an tly keeps w atch . When he pe rceives they are fairly h as of e entered , he a method shutting all the pass s , and

one of . ch f confining the fish to apartment the net , whi is li t the t ed up into boa , and the prisoners are taken and secured . The tunny fish generally runs from fifty to on e hundred weight ; but some of them are much larger . They are im in a and . medi tely gutted , boiled , cut slices The guts and

a aff oil a ed o he d ord the slices are p rtly dri , to be eaten c casi onall oil a or oil b y with and vineg r , barrelled up in , to e e i n xported . It is counted a delicacy Italy and Piedmont , f and ta stes not unlike sturgeon . The amous pickle of the

a of l of ancients , c lled garum , was made the gil s and blood the tunny or thynnus . There is a much more considerable of a a a f fishery it in S rdini , where it is s id to employ our t t o hundred persons ; but this belongs the duc de S . Pierre .

of a F a al In the neighbourhood Vill r nca , there are people

for a an d ways employed in fishing cor l sponge, which grow adhering to the rocks under w ater . Their m e thods do not f o . a savour much ingenuity For the cor l , they lower down

a of a a sw b, composed what is c lled spun yarn on board our of n in t r a su ships war, ha ging distinct h e ds, and nk by

3‘ 8 S RO N 9 TRAVEL TH UGH FRA CE AND ITALY .

w of t enty sols, and is very near the same value as an Eng

: f a lish shilling ten sols there ore are equ l to six pence sterling . ’ Butcher s meat in general sells at Nic e for three sols a pound and veal is something dearer ; but then there are but twelve

in for ounces the pound, which being allowed , sixteen ounces come for something less than tw o pence halfpenny li for f w E n s n. g Fish commonly sells our sols the t elve ounces, or five for the English pound ; and these five are equivalent to three pence of our money : but sometim es we are obliged to pay five and e ven six sols for the P iedmontese pound of for or t e fish . A turkey that would sell five six shillings at h

n . Londo market . cost me but three at Nice I can buy a a n for or good c po thirty sols , eighteen pence ; and the same f for o or . a price I pay a brace partridges , a good hare I c n have a woodcock for twenty - four sols ; but the pigeons are dearer than in London . Rabbits are very rare ; and there of is scarce a goose to be seen in the whole county Nice . Wild ducks and teal are sometimes to be had in the winter ; now of a f and I am speaking se owl , it may not be amiss to

ou w of or kin sfi sher tell y what I kno the halcyon g . It is

o f a bird, though very rare in this country , about the size : won a pigeon , the body brown , and the belly white by a derful f of instinct it makes its nest upon the sur ace the sea , an d of lays its eggs in the month November, when the Me dit rr n a m as h e a e n is always cal and smooth a millpond . T e c the people here call them martinets , be ause y begin to hatch about martinmas . Their nests are sometimes seen f floating near the shore, and generally become the prize o

who . the boys , are very alert in catching them

Y ou know all sea- birds are allowed by the church of on of Rome to be eaten meagre days , as a kind fish ; and the monks especially do n ot fail to make use of this permis

- . or f f sion Sea turtle, tortoises , are o ten ound at sea by the : mariners , in these latitudes but they are not the green sort , i f ll so much n request among the aldermen o London . A the Mediterranean turtle are of the kind called which i n the Wes t Indies are eaten by none but hungry

f. s s of . o eamen, negroe , and the lowest class people One E TRA a s THROUGH FRAN C AND ITALY . 89 9

two these, weighing about hundred pounds , was lately

on of f it brought shore by the fishermen Nice , who ound f of floating asleep on the sur ace the sea . The whole town of of h was alarm ed at sight such a monster , the nature whic

n ot . a e they could comprehend However, the monks, c ll d t min ima of S . in , Francisco di Paolo , guided by a sure s inct ei t , marked it as th r prey, and surrounded it accord i l f of n ot so n . g y The riars other convents , quite hungry, e s n ot crowding down to the beach , declar d it hould be eat en ; dropped some hints about the possibility of its being t and a d something preterna ural di bolical , and even propose exorcisms and aspersions with holy water . The populace [ were divided according to their attachm ent to this or that in or convent ; a mighty clamour arose ; and the police, of o der to remove the cause their contenti n , ordered the tor toise to be recommitted to the waves : a sentence which the f a ranciscans saw executed , not without sighs and lament

- or a n tion . The land turtle , terr pin , is much better know of are at Nice, as being a native this country yet the best

f of . or bouilon brought rom the island Sardinia The soup,

of s as a e -a this animal , is always pre cribed here a gre t rest ra

a of tive to consumptive patients . The bre d Nice is very

ff a . indi erent , and , I am persu ded , very unwholesome The f fr o n . flour is generally musty , and not quite ee sa d This

is either owing to the particles of the mill - stone rubbed off or to d f e in grinding, what a heres to the corn itsel in b ing thrashed upon the common ground ; for there are no thrash

in - fl or a h g o s in this country . I shall not t ke notice of t e f o . s vegetables Nice In the winter, we have green pea e , an asparagus , artichokes , cauliflower, beans , French be s ,

celery , and endive ; cabbage, coleworts , radishes , turnips ,

e cha carrots , b tteraves , sorrel , lettuce , onions , garlic , and

. f a s lot We have potatoes rom the mount ins , mushroom ,

f . ff truflfles champignons , and tru fles Piedmont a ords white , counted the most delicious in the world ; they sell for about e thr e livres the pound . The fruits of this sea son are pick led fi s olives , oranges , lemons , citrons , citronelles , dried g ,

a a a t filbe r ts gr pes , pples , pears , almonds , chesnuts, w lnu s , ,

f a azerolles medlars , pomegranates, and a ruit c lled , about 400 T V S T O RA EL HR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

of of the size a nutmeg , an oblong shape , red colour, and

agreeable acid taste . I might likewise add the cherry of la u r us cem s us the , which is sold in the market ; very f beauti ul to the eye, but insipid to the palate . In summer

all f we have those vegetables in per ection . There is also a of or of f kind small courge, gourd , which the people o the

a of country make a very savoury r gout , with the help eggs ,

f . of bad cheese, and resh anchovies Another i s made the en ean a : j , which the Sp niards called berengena it is much e a the in aten in Sp in and Levant , as well as by the Moors ’ an d of i n Barbary . It is about the size shape a hen s egg ,

i n a of f e closed cup like an acorn ; when ripe , a aint purpl w a f colour . It gro s on a st lk about a oot high , with long s pines or prickles . The people here have different ways of s l and licing and dressing it , by broi ing , boiling , stewing, with other ingredients : but it is at best an insipid dish . h There are some caper bushes in this neighbourhood, whic w i n of of gro wild holes garden walls , and require no sort

: in one or cultivation two gardens , there are palm trees ; m t . of but the da es never ripen In y register the weather, I have marked the seasons of the principal fruits in this

. in country In May we have strawberries, which continue w f s eason t o or three months . These are o the wood kind ; f of very grate ul , and a good flavour ; but the scarlets and

not . of hautboys are known at Nice In the beginning June,

are and even sooner, the cherries begin to be ripe . They a of a kind bleeding hearts ; large, fleshy , and high fl voured , fe w of though rather too luscious . I have likewise seen a those we call Kentish cherries, which are much more cool , The acid , and agreeable, especially in this hot climate . h cherries are succeeded by the apricots and peaches , whic

of better flav oured are all standards , and consequence than

- f w what we call wall ruit . The trees , as well as almonds , gro

nd a a in a bear without c re and cultiv tion , and may be seen

he : t open fields about Nice but without proper culture , the re fruit degenerates . The best peaches I have seen at Nice a almber es of the the g , a yellow hue, and oblong shape , about f size o a small lemon . Their consis tence is much more solid

-

409. T S T N RAVEL HROUGH FRA CE AND ITALY .

e . a n pleas d It is commonly rem rked , that beer strengthe s

a s f . r of a who as well re reshes But the po ters Const ntinople ,

a eat never drink any thing stronger than w ter, and very lit

a f f an d a n tle anim l ood , will li t c rry heavier burdens than a y w If m other porters in the kno n world . we ay believe the of most respectable travellers , a Turk will carry a load

seven hundred weight , which is more (I believe) than any E nglish porter ever a ttempt ed to raise .

f of a Among the re reshments these w rm countries , I ought

f s orbettes in not to orget mentioning the , which are sold ff co eehouses and places of public resort . They are iced

f a of a or a roth , m de with juice oranges , pricots , pe ches ; a a t very greeable to the p late, and so extremely cold , hat I af wa m h ot c f was raid to s llow the in this ountry, until I ound, f f a and ma rom in orm tion experience, that they y be taken

in moderation without any bad consequence .

Another considerable article in housekeeping, is wine,

which we h ave here good and reason able . The wine of

an r Tavelle in L guedoc is very near as good as Bu gundy , be h ad of S and may at Nice at the rate ixpence a bottle . t w of S . a a of The s eet wine L urent , counted equ l to that

a or a : a Frontign n , costs about eight nine pence quart pret

ty good Mal aga may be had for half the money . Those w h o m ake their own wine choose the grapes from different

a d f viney r s , and have them picked , pressed , and ermented

a a re d at home . Th t which is made by the pe sants , both

: a and white , is generally genuine but the wine merch nts ’ of w Nice bre and balderdash , and even mix it with pigeon s

a dung and quicklime . It c nnot be supposed , that a strang

and o own er soj urner should buy his grapes , and make his

own of : b ut m a bu re commen da provision wine he y y it , by f a for or tion rom the peas nts , about eighteen twenty livres

s of d the charge , consi ting eleven rup five poun s ; in other

of tw o of words , hundred and eighty pounds this country ,

s o as to bring it for something less than three pence a quart .

a a an a The Nice wine , when mixed with w ter, m kes g rees

. f for able beverage There is an in erior sort servants , drank not by the common people, which , in the cabaret, does cost 403 TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANC E A N D ITALY.

a bove a penny a bottle . The people here are not so nice as

of k the English in the man agement their wine . It is ept in

or a k flacons , large c s s , without corks , having a little oil for b at top . It is not deemed the worse having een opened

or b f sun a day two e ore ; and they expose it to the hot , and

all of a . kinds weather , without hesit tion Certain it is , this

has or ff s a treatment little no e ect upon its ta te , fl vour , and transparen cy . The brandy of Nice is very indifferent ; and the liq ueu r s n are so sweetened with coarse sugar , that they scarce retai the taste or flavour of any other ingredient . The last article of domestic economy which I shall men f l for for tion , is ue , or wood firing, which I buy eleven sols

i t l f a (a l t e more than six pence hal penny) quintal , consisting f of e . one hundr d and fi ty pound , Nice weight The best ,

of oak f a . which is , comes rom S rdinia The common sort l t he s a be is o ive, which being cut with p in it , ought to laid in ' during the summer ; otherwise it will m ake a very

u o f . nc m ortable fire In my kitchen and two chambers , I

f a h of f w burned fi teen thous nd weig t wood in our eeks , ex e of for and of lusive charcoal the kitchen stoves , pine tops

- for . areas a a lighting the fires These last l rge as pine pples ,

a a a nd h d which they gre tly resemble in sh pe , to w ich in eed

f of a they give their name ; and being ull turpentine , m ke a

f . a of wonder ul blaze For the s me purpose , the people these or of W countries use the sarments , cuttings the vines , hich they sell made up in small fascines . This grea t cons ump tion of wood is owing to the large fires used in roasting

of f i n h a Th pieces bee , and joints , the Englis m nner . e roasts of this country seldom exceed t w o or three pounds of a are o meat ; and their other pl ts made over st ve holes . f But it is now high time to conduct you rom the kitchen , where you have been too long detained by your humble servant . P . S . I have mentioned the prices of almost all the articles

t he : in housekeeping, as they are paid by English but , ex ’ clus ive of a a do butcher s meat , I am cert in the n tives not

so h . on us pay muc by thirty per cent Their imposition , is A N TRAVEL S THROUGH FRA NCE D ITALY .

f of ow n v a and a a not only a proo their ill ny h tred , but

on h m u f s candal t eir govern ent , which o ght to inter ere in favour of the subjects of a n a tion to which they are so much

bound in point of policy a s well as gra titude .

LE TTE R XX .

i ctob r 1 4 N ce , O e 2 2 , 76 .

a f own A s I have nothing else to do , but to s tis y my cu rios it a of f y, and th t my riends , I obey your injunctions with pleasure ; th ough not without some apprehension that my inquiries will afford you very little entertainment . The pl ace where I a m is of very little importance or consequence as a sta te or community neither is there any thing curious or interesting in the ch aracter or economy of its inhabitants . The re ar e some t e w merchants in Nice said to be in good

of a circumstances . I know one them who deals to con s id er able and a- a extent , goes twice ye r to London to attend

- the s ales of the E a st India company . He buys up a very

a a of a f l rge qu ntity muslins and other Indi goods , and reights

h in th e V a a s ip river to transport them to ill Franca .

m of are t So e these sent to Swi zerland ; but , I believe , the greater p ar t is smuggled into France by virtue of coun t er feit a w an st mps , hich are here used without y ceremony .

th e f of thIS is a a Indeed , chie commerce place a contr b nd traffic carried on to the dis advant age of France ; and I am told th a t the farmers of th e Lev ant comp any in that king

a a t . dom find their ccount in conniving it Certain it is , a great quantity of merch a ndise is brought hither every week

f and and af by mules rom Turin other parts in Piedmont , t erw ards conveyed to the other side of the Var either by

of l and or water . The mules Piedmont are exceeding strong

of a a f a nd hardy . One them will c rry burden o near six h . a hundred weight T ey are e sily nourished , and require ’ f h a th e h no other respite rom t eir l bour but nig t s repose . They are the only carri age that can be used in crossing the m a - f ha ount ins , being very sure ooted ; and it is observed , t t in choosing their steps they always march upon the brink

40 6 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

of l if th e merce this town would flourish , more especial y king would lay out the n ecessary expense for rendering the a b m h r our more co modious and secure . But this is not a

a of e m tter v ry great consequence, as there is an excellent

at a ha a e harbour Ville Fr nche , which is not more t n mil

f f f a t o and a hal rom th at o Nice . But the gre t objection

of at of the improvement commerce Nice , is the want money , d and a a . a e in ustry, ch r cter The n tives themselves are in g

n a h a f m er l suc dirty knaves , th t no oreigners will trust the

t he w Of a in ay trade . They h ve been known to fill their

oil a a f f of a an d h - a h c sks h l ull w ter , their anc ovy b rrels wit

a of a fis h in a stinking he ds th t , order to che t their corres

onden ts p . of a The shopkeepers this pl ce are generally poor, greedy,

- f and ov er reaching . M any o them are bankrupts of Mar a f seilles , Geno , and other countries , who have fled rom their f ff creditors to Nice ; which being a ree port, a ords an asy

lum to foreign cheats and sharpers of every denomination . of Here is likewise a pretty considerable number Jews , who

for w live together in a street appropriated their use, hich is

shut up every night . They act as brokers ; but are gener

a f old lly poor , and deal in rippery , remnants , clothes , and ld of af o household furniture . There is another branch tr

fi c engrossed by the monks . Some convents have such a

b of im num er masses bequeathed to them , that they find it

a possible to execute the will of the donors . In this c se they

f of who agree by the lump with the riars poorer convents , s ay the m asses for less money than has been allowed by the f ff : for ex de unct , and their employers pocket the di erence

a fa of mple , my grand ther bequeaths a sum money to a cer

a n a of for the t i convent , to have such number masses said

of of a con repose his soul , at the price ten sols e ch , and this

f a a vent not having time to per orm them , b rg ins with the

f of m for a - riars another to say the six sols piece, so that they gain four sols upon every m ass ; for it matters not to the soul of h the deceased where t ey are said , so they be properly f him . o authenticated A poor gentleman Nice, who piques s f on th el much e noble blood that runs in the veins , though TRA VELs THROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY. 407

of a a t he has not a pair whole breeches to we r, compl ined o m e th at his great grandmother had founded a perpetual m ass of own a of f e for the repose her soul , at the r te fi t en sols (nine da wa pence English a y) , which indeed s all that now remained

of fa . th the mily estate He said , what made the hardship e

on a f greater him , she had been dead bove fi ty years, and in all probability her soul had got out of purgatory long ag o ; therefore the continuance of the mass was an unnecessary a de expense . I told him , I thought , in such a c se , the

fun t a a f an d e c should ppe r be ore the civil magistrate , mak

f of a t a for a of fa a fidavit her being pe ce , the advant ge the

a and h mily . He mused little, s rugging up his shoulders ,

a of th e a replied , th t where the interest church was at st ke, ’ he did not believe a Spirit s declaration would be held le

. of of a gal evidence In some parts France , the cure the p ’ on da a ls ou r des mor ts rish , All Soul s y, which is c lled j ,

' libe mdomen e for the says a two sols , at every grave in bury

- for f s ing ground , the release o the oul whose body is there

interred . of z The artisans Nice are very la y, and very needy , very

d of . of h awkwar , and void all ingenuity The price t eir la bour is very near as high as at London or Paris . Rather for f a e m than work moderate profit , arising rom const nt f a ployment , which would com ortably maint in them and their fa h a milies , they c oose to starve at home, to lounge bout the a or in ramparts , b sk themselves in the sun , play at bowls the streets fr om morning till night .

of of - The lowest class people consists fishermen , day la bourers and : are , porters , peasants these last distributed

in of chiefly the small cassines in the neighbourhood the city , and are said to amount to twelve thousand . They are e m ployed in labouring the ground , and have all the outward

of . a signs extreme misery They are all diminutive, me gre, f withered , dirty , and hal naked ; in their complexions , not a a in b rely swarthy , but as bl ck as Moors ; and I believe my

of a of a conscience many them are descend nts th t people . They are very hard favoured and their women in general have the coarsest features I have ever seen : it must be own 408 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE A N D ITALY.

h h a es th e . T e ed , however , they ve the fin t teeth in world nourishment of those poor creatures consists of the refuse of the a a of a a a g rden , very coarse bread , kind me l c lled polent ,

a of h m de Indian corn , which is very nouris ing and agree a and a : a a m ble , little oil but even in these p rticul rs they see

av a a to be stinted to very scanty me als . I h e known pe sant h h feed is family with the skins of boiled beans . T eir hogs ’ e are much better fe d than their children . Tis pity th y have w for no cows , hich would yield milk , butter , and cheese , ll h a of fa . a the susten nce their milies With t is wretchedness , on e of these peasants will n ot work in your garden for le s s i h l er diem than e g teen so s , about eleven pence sterling , p ; and then he does not h alf the work of an E nglish labourer .

If f an h n can h e there is ruit in it , or y t i g he convey , will f f fa a , a e u in llibly ste l it i , you do not keep v ry watch l eye ’ over him . All the t ommon people are thieves and beggars ; and I believe this is always the case with people who are ex

t remel . y indigent and miserable In other respects , they are f seldom guilty o excesses . They are remarkably respectful and submissive to their superiors . The populace of Nice

ar are very quiet and orderly . They e little addicted t o of drunkenness . I have never heard one riot since I lived a mong them ; and murder and robbery are altogether n u m l k . man a a a of nown A y w k lone over the county Nice, f a o . at midnight , without d nger insult The police is very

m n well regulated . No a is permitted to wear a pistol or d on of f a a . m ger, pain being sent to the g lleys I am in or

h and a re f ed , t at both murder robbery very requen t in some f h o . e a a r parts Piedmont Ev n here, w en the pe sants qu r el

m a aw in their cups (which very seldo h ppens) , they dr their and fal a knives , the one in libly st bs the other . To such ex tre mities , however , they never proceed , except when there is a wom an in the case ; and mutual jealousy co- opera tes

a . with the liquor they have drank , to inflame their p ssions common eo le In Nice , the p p retire to their lodgings at eight ’ i n . n o clock winter, and nine in summer Every perso found in the streets after these hours is apprehended by the if of m e f patrol ; and , he cannot give a good account hi s l ,

S O N A N D T 41 0 TRAVEL THR UGH FRA CE I ALY.

a la che es e ' parties to go ; that is , to kill those little birds , which they e at as g ibi er . The grea t poverty of the people here Is owmg to their r e

f of i s ligion . Hal their time lost In observing the great number of festivals and h alf of their substance 1 5 given to h if mendicant fri ars and paris priests . But the church occa

a s ions their indigence , it likewise in some measure lleviates

of m the horrors it , by a using them with shows , processions , and even those very feasts which afford a recess from labour m If in a country where th e climate disposes the to idleness . th e od of a a the peasants in neighbourho any ch pel , dedic ted

da a a to a saint whose y is to be celebr ted , have mind to s tin a fa m ake a fi , in other words , ir , they apply to the

o for a commandant f Nice a licence , which costs them bout

a af a French crown . This being obt ined, they assemble ter i in h a a a c serv ce, men and women t eir best pp rel , and d n e to

of fi ddles and a or the music , and pipe t bor, rather pipe and ’ - an d drum . There are hucksters stands , with pedlary ware,

- for a li ueur s nick knacks presents c kes and bread , q and all a of wine ; and thither generally resort the comp ny Nice .

our of es tin es I have seen whole noblesse at one thesef , kept on the highway in summer, mingled with an immense crowd of peasants , mules , and asses , covered with dust , and sweat i a of ing at every pore with the excess ve he t the weather . I should be much puzzled to tell whence their enjoyment arises on such occasions ; or to explain their motives for go.

b for n ing thither, unless they are prescri ed it pe ance, as

a foretaste to purgatory . of l Now I am speaking re igious institutions , I cannot help observing that the ancient Rom ans were still more s upers ti tious than the modern Italians ; and that the number of their i i f fa a rel g ous easts , sacrifices , sts , and holid ys , was even greater than those of the christi an church of Rome . They

’ h ad their es ti r es ti emae s ta tte te conce f and p of , their f and p time a f es cur i ales or fa , their fixed and move ble easts , their st

i r da n e a na l eci a? . o es ing days , and the r p or vigils The g were ca r men ta les Fe celebrated in January , the in January and

' bruar t e lu crcales ma tr o les in oralza y, h p and na March , the fl S T R N A N D 4 TRAVEL HROUGH F A CE ITALY. 1 1

' f s a tu rh a li a r obi ci li a z'en a lia ver tumna lia o in May ; the , g , , u r

' na ca lia a lilia a n d Za r a lza . had la tin oe , p , They their , their

’ a an a les s emen tzn ae com itales an d i m p g , their , their p , their

’ ‘ er a tzvoe as n ovemda lia p , such the , instituted by the senate , on of of . account a supposed shower stones B esides , every

f m Of er iae of private a ily had a number f , kept either by way

for or for a rejoicing some benefit , mourning some cal mity .

E very time it thundered, the day was kept holy . Every da n 'wndin ce ua s i ninth y was a holiday, thence called , q

' di es denomi n a lzs w w en di n ce . as th v There was the , hich e f of of r ourth the kalends , nones , and ides, every month , ove and above the anniversary of every great defeat which the

a a di es a llienai s or fif republic had sustained , p rticul rly the ,

een th of of D on t the kalends ecember , which the Roman s were totally defeated by the Gauls and Veien tes ; as Lucan ~ — n i l a s ays ct da mn a ta din R oma a a lia f s tis . The vast variety of their deities , said to amount to thirty thousand , with their i of f respective r ghts adoration , could not ail to introduce of such a number ceremonies, shows , sacrifices , lustrations ,

as e and public processions , must have employed the peopl

f one of almost constantly rom end the year to the other . This con tinual dis sipation must have been a grea t enemy to

fi ndustr and ef e mi y, and the people must have been idle f ffi a n ate . I think it would be no di cult m tter to prove; that ff of there is very little di erence, in point character, between the ancient and modern inhabitants of Rome ; and that the h i d of h great figure whic this emp re ma e old , was not so muc

to of as bar bap owing the intrinsic virtue its citizens , to the

and li of a h rism, ignorance , imbeci ty , the n tions t ey subdued . I nstances of public and private virtue I find a s frequent and of a of as striking in the history other nations , as in the ann ls ancient Rome ; a nd n ow th at the kingdoms and st ates of

e a a the Europe are pr tty equally enlightened , and b l nced in

of a of a if the scale politic l power , I am opinion , th t , most fortun ate generals of the Rom an commonwealth were agai n placed at the head of the very armies they once com mand s a of d u e all and ed , in te d exten ing their conq ests ov r Europe

a a d Asia , they would hardly be ble to subdue and ret in un er '

their dominion all the petty republics th at subsist in Italv . 4 2 S N 1 TRAVEL THROUGH FRA CE AND ITALY .

am and be But I tired with writing , I believe you will

h a r tired with reading , this long letter , notwit st nding all you f of prepossession in avour your very humble servant .

T LE TER XXI .

O DE A R D OC T R , N ice, N ov . 1 0 , 1 764.

IN of am my inquiries about the revenues Nice , I obliged

f of a a h to trust to the in ormation the inh bit nts , who are muc given to exaggerate . They tell me the revenues of this town

on e a or amount to hundred thous nd livres , five thousand of off n pounds sterling , which I would strike at least o e f as a of own a if w e ourth , an ddition their v nity ; perhaps deduct a third it will be nearer the truth for I cannot find out any other funds they have but the butchery and the

f s o a - b akery , which they arm at much year to the best bid ‘ ’ der droits d en tr e e or n t , and the , duties upo provision brough into the city but these are very small . The king is said to f m one draw ro Nice hundred thousand livres annually , aris f m f f ing ro a ree gi t , amounting to seven hundred pounds s of f w terling, in lieu the taille , rom hich this town and coun try are exempted ; an inconsiderable duty upon wine sold in

’ - a nd d r i da r a of public houses ; the o ts po t. These l st consist

’ all anchorage , paid by vessels in proportion to their tonnage , the a of a d B when y enter the h rbour Nice n Villa Franca . e

f n a a a sides , all oreig vessels , under cert in stipul ted burden ,

a of a are that pass between the isl nd Sardinia and this co st , n obliged , in going to the eastward , to enter and pay a certai

on of and . regulated imposition , pain being taken made prize of a a of a The prince Mon co ex cts a talliage the s me kind , a nd both he and the king of Sardinia m aint ain armed cruis f ers to assert this prerogative ; rom which , however, the Eng

a in of lish and French are exempted by tre ty , consequence m f t ll a su o e a . a a having p id a m on y once In prob bility , it was originally given as a consideration for maintaining lights on for of a a l the shore, the benefit n vig tors , like the tol paid f r Th e f a or o . passing the Sound in the Baltic an l lanthorn , w of a i to the east ard Villa Fr nca, is kept in good repa r, and

41 44 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D I TALY: less taxed th an th at of Nice ; an d as the soil produces the

a of f th e a b a necess ries li e , inh it nts , with a little industry ,

w a e a ma a might rene the golden g in this h ppy cli te , mong d a nd be autifi ed f their groves , woo s , mountains , with oun

a a . t ins , brooks , rivers , torrents , and casc des In the midst

O f a a a a an d these pastor l dvant ges , the peas nts are poor mi s er able : they h ave no stock to begin the world with ; they have no lea ses of the l ands they cultiv a te ; but entirely de pend from year to year on the pleasure O f the arbitrary l a nd ’ out at a i holder, who may turn them m nute s warning ; and

are th e a f a and a t they oppressed by mendic nt ri rs p rish pries s , h f f h f all of t e o a . who rob them best ruits t eir l bours A ter , th e ground is too scanty for th e number of families which

a re crowded on it . Y oudesire to kno w the state of the arts and sciences at d l Nice, which indee , is a most a total blank . I know not wh a t men of talents this place may h ave formerly produced e m Of but at present , it s e s to be consecrated to the reign

d u . lness , and superstition It is very surprising to see a

a two SO people est blished between enlightened nations , de

of a a . are a void t ste and liter ture Here no toler ble pictures ,

: Of busts , statues , nor edifices the very ornaments the

churches are wretchedly conceived , and worse executed . They have no public nor private libraries that afford any

not in thing worth perusing . There is even a bookseller h Nice . Thoug they value themselves upon their being a of a ar e fe w n tives It ly , they unacquainted with music . The

th a t play upon instruments attend only to the execution .

no a Of They have genius nor t ste , nor any knowledge har

m n and . Nis s ard o y composition Among the French , a ic ue s f p q himsel on being Proven cal ; but in Florence , Milan , or a of e Of Rome , he cl ims the honour b ing born a native f Italy . The people O condition here Speak both languages

‘ equally well ; or rather equally ill ; for they use a low un couth phraseology ; and their pronunci ation is extremely a Vicious . Their vern cular tongue is what th ey call P a tois ;

SO . P a t is f o though , in calling it , they do it injustice o , r m the ata vin itas n Latin word p , means no more tha a provin T RAVEL S TH R OUGH FRAN CE AND i TA LY . 41 5

’ f P a ta mu m cial or a . a or accent di lect It t kes its name rom ,

w as - a of v all Padua , which the birth pl ce Li y , who , with ’ e his merit as a writer , has admitted into his history som f ma P t i a O n . a o s or provinci l expressions his country The ,

of h a P rove n al native tongue Nice , is no ot er th n the ancient g , f a an d a e rom which the Italian , Sp nish , French l nguages hav

f a a a n been ormed . This is the l ngu ge th t rose upo the r uins

O f a ft the of the L tin tongue, a er irruptions the Goths ,

a an d a m ’ an Vand ls , Huns , Burgundi ns, by who the Rom

was . was all empire destroyed It spoke over Italy , Spain , a of a i cen and the southern p rts Fr nce , unt l the thirteenth

a a a a tury , when the It lians beg n to polish it into the l ngu ge w which they now call their o n . The Spaniards and French likewise improved it into their respective tongues . From f a was R ma nce its great a finity to the L tin , it called o , a

a a a a n me which the Sp niards still give to their own l ngu ge .

A S the first legends Of knight - errantry were written in Pro v en al f a Of a e c , all subsequent per orm nces the s me kind hav d erived from it the name of romance ; and a s those annals of a of chivalry contained extravagant dventures knights , a ba or n giants , and necrom ncers, every impro ble story fictio

da . Mr is to this y called a romance Walpole, in his Cata

of a a logue roy l and noble uthors , has produced two son

' in a a b a nets the ncient Proven c l , written y our King Rich rd

Ces ar de Li n a l I , sirnamed o and Volt ire , in his Historica

f n of tracts , has avoured the world with some specime s the a an P a t is of s me l guage . The o Nice must , without doubt , have underg on e ’ change s and corruptions in the course of

SO a a e many ges , especially as no pains have been t k n to ~ al h a preserve its origin purity , eit er in orthogr phy or pro n un i as a a of a c ation . It is neglected the l ngu ge the vulg r ; and scarce any body here knows either its origi n o r cons titu tion . I have , in vain , endeavoured to procure some pieces

P rov en al a in the ancient g , that I might comp re them with

' th e modern P a tois : but I can find no person to give me the a f f a r on t. a O le st in o mation the subjec The sh des ignor nce ,

sloth , and stupidity , are impenetrable . Almost every word of P a t is a f i n the o m y still be ound the Italian , Spanish , and 41 6 T S T R N A N D T RAVEL H OUGH FRA CE I ALY .

a a a in French l ngu ges , with a sm ll Change the pronunci a i . Ca va llo s i n f in a hors e a a a nd a tion g y g in It li n Sp nish ,

ca va ma i son for a h us e is called o ; , the French word o , is

a ma ion a u a a w a ter a Ch nged into g , which me ns in Sp nish ,

Niss ards a da i ua wha t a s t i h e ! the c ll g , to express op s er

’ s a a cc t la c a uz they y o fi g , which is a sentence composed Of

a a on e a two It li n words , French , and one Sp nish . This is n early the proportion in which these three languages w ill be f P a tois O f v a ound mingled in the Nice ; which , with some

riation a ll , extends over Provence , Languedoc , and Gas

n ow a cony . I will tre t you with two or three stanzas O f a ca nz on or a a a , hymn in this l ngu ge , to the Virgi n M ry , which was l ately printed a t Nice .

1 . 1 .

V ier e m a ir e de Deiu i r in moth er of God g , , V g , u stro bu ono a vocado O u r ood a dvo a N o . g c te , E mb e car u vos tre fi eu W ith our dear s on l , y , ‘ e t urado F E n Fen s ro a do , In e nes tro adored , J e u vou s s aludi I s a ute ou , l y , E dem andi en s ocou rs ; A nd a sk h i s as sis ta nce E senso a utr e re udi A nd w ithout furth e r re ude p l , p l , v tr h r i n h n Cauti lous u os e onou s . I S g your o ours .

2 . 2 .

’ ' Q u ario de P aradis ! W hat a ir of P aradi s e Q ue ma es ta div mo W h at m ajesty di vine ! ' S a amon e s d a dvrs Solomon i s of O in ion l , p , Giugi ar de uvost ro m ine To judg e of you r app ear an ce V ous (11 8 plus hello Says you ar e th e fai re st E lou d lS b eau s e ven A nd i t IS often s aid

De ton tol lei fern ello Of all fe ma es , l , ’

s n an re n. n d w e are not a E non e g o A t all deceive d.

3 . 3 . ’ Q u ario de P aradis I W h a t air of Paradis e Q ue m a es ta di vmo W h at m ajesty divme La b e ll ez z o e blov rs Th e beauty da z z l es ' a n Th dnes r i es th e e L a b on ta l u eigl r fii o. e goo s pu fi e y S i as couronado Y ou ar e crow ned Tens e lou m onde en man Y ou hold th e w orld in your hand

S us d el trono a ss etta do, Seated on th e th rone ,

ou su or t our clu ld . Rig es lou uvos tre e nfan . Y pp y

Y ou see I h ave not chosen this ca nz on for the beauty and elegance of thought and expression ; but give it you as the only printed Specimen I could find Of the modern P rov en gal.

F tr i s th e name of a ace in this nei hbourh ood wh ere th ere is a enes o pl g , i r s uppos ed mi racul ous sanctuary or ch apel of the V i rg n Ma y .

41 8 S TRAVEL THROUGH FRAN CE AND ITALY .

r e nated p g with nitre and volatile salts . They have recourse, ’ h f an d f w t ere ore, to pigeon s dung ordure , which ully ans er

. one of their expectations Every peasant opens , at corner

a of ff for his wall , public house o ice the reception of passen ' of r gers ; and in the town Nice , every tenement is p ovided one of of with these receptacles , the contents which are care f e f ully pr served or s ale . The peasant comes with his asses

and ofi f - for casks to carry it be ore day , and pays it accord

a ing to its quality , which he examines and investig tes by the f a a . a of a a e t taste and fl vour The j kes a protest nt mily , who

r a s g every day , bears a much higher price than the privy f h o s ma i r e one f of a . a good cat olic , who live g hal the ye r The vaults belonging to the convent of Minims are not worth

emptying .

a The ground here is not delved with spades as in Engl nd ,

h a z but laboured with a broad s rp hoe , with a short hori on tal handle ; and the climate is so hot and dry in the sum a mer , that the plants must be w tered every morning and

a a . evening, especi lly where it is not sh ded by trees It is surprising to see how the productions of the earth are crowd

O ne ano ed together . would imagine they would rob one

of for of air ther nourishment , and moreover be stifled want ;

and a . f , doubtless , this is the c se Olive , and other ruit trees,

a a are pl nted in rows , very close to e ch other . These are v b w connected by ines , and the interstices et een the rows are h f h . a illed wit corn .The g rdens that supply the town wit

sallad and pot - herbs lie all on the side of Provence by the ar e a or highway . They surrounded with high stone w lls

la of or . ditches , p nted with a kind cane large reed , which an swers many purposes in this country : the leaves of it afford as f sustenance to the asses , and the canes not only serve ences

t o the inclosures , but are used to prop the vines and pease

- f a and a . they are ormed into rbours , wore as walking st ves A ll these gardens are watered by little rills that come from

a a of the mount ins , particularly by the sm ll branches the two i n f as s ources which I h ave described a ormer letter, issuing

m of a a of Fon fro the two sides mount in , under the names

’ tain e de Ma ur a ille and Fonta zne da Temple. 4 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 1 9

of e In the neighbourhood Nice, they raise a considerabl

of a and s aw . quantity hemp , the l rgest strongest I ever

a t of is P r this , when dressed, exported to other countries ;

a f a e and part is m nu actured into cordage . However profit bl

ma a in it y be to the grower, it is certainly great nuisance out of h as n the summer . When taken the pits where it bee

rot h put to , the stenc it raises is quite insupportable, and must undoubtedly be unwholesome .

h of t There is suc a want land in this neighbourhood, tha terraces ar e built ove r one another with loose stones on the fa of a an d ces b re rocks , and these being covered with earth ,

an d . The manured , are planted with olives , vines , corn f a o same shi t was practised all over P lestine, which was r cky an d a of b rren , and much more populous than the county

Nice . a m of e Notwithst nding the s all extent this territory , ther O f N are some pleasant meadows in the skirts ice , that pro duce excellent clover and the corn which is sown in open

f Of fields , where it has the ull benefit the soil , sun , and air, t grows to a surpris ing height . I have seen rye seven or eigh

f in feet high . All vegetables have a wonder ul growth this

a . a clim te Besides whe t, rye, barley , and oats , this country of a or a h produces a good deal Melig , Turkish whe t, whic f a a com . in Oh is wh t we call Indi n I have, a ormer letter ,

O f a of P 0 served , that the meal this grain goes by the n me len ta and - , makes excellent hasty pudding , being very nourish

an a ing, and counted dmirable pectoral . The pods and stalks are used for fuel ; and the leaves are much preferable aw for a ila to common str making p ss es . The pease and beans in the garden appear in the winter

f a of in like beauti ul plant tions young trees blossom , and per

- - fu . a me the air Myrtle , sweet brier , sweet marjoram , s ge ,

a a h m thyme, lavender, rosem ry , with m ny ot er aro atic herbs

f w h a f v and lo ers , whic with us require the most c re ul culti a f i n a . tion , are here ound wild the mount ins It is not many years since the Nis sards lea rned the culture

' of of h and silk worms , their neig bours the Piedmontese ; hitherto the progress they have made is not very consider 420 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRA NCE A N D ITALY. able the whole county of Nice produ ces about one hundred

h - a of d h a and t irty three b les three hun red pounds eac , mount

al f ing in v ue to our hundred thousand livres .

of th e m a bea In the beginning April , when ulberry le ves

f a k gin to put orth , the eggs or grains th t produce the sil

a he an d re . T a are a worm hatched gr ins w shed in wine , those th a t swim on th e top are thrown a way as good for no

a of thing . The rest being deposited in sm all b gs linen , are u worn by women in their bosoms , ntil the worms begin to

re appear : then they a pl aced in sh allow wooden boxes ,

O f h a covered with a piece w ite p per , cut into little holes ,

through which the worms ascend as they ar e hatched , to f on n a of w h h a a eed the you g m ulberry le ves , ic there is l yer

r f above the paper . These boxes a e kept or w armth between i matre s s es da . a are two , and visited every y Fresh le ves la d a f e in , and the worms th t eed are remov d successively to the

l for a other p ace prepared their reception . This is an h bita

of or tion consisting two three stories , about twenty inches f f a . rom e ch other , raised upon our wooden posts The floors

a of an d h f a are m de canes , strewed wit resh mulberry le ves

and a a for a the corner posts , other Occ sion l props , sust ining

ff f a a of a the di erent loors , are covered with co t loose he th , w which is twisted round the wood . The worms hen h atched are l aid upon the floors ; an d here you m ay see them in all

ff a of a the di erent st ges moulting or c sting the slough , a ch ange which they undergo three times successively before

n ma of they begin to work . The silk worm is a ani l such

d a a a a a acute and elic te sens tions , th t too much c re c nnot be

a a a and f f m t ken to keep its h bitation cle n , to re resh it ro

air a a an d tim e to time with pure . I h ve seen them l nguish

in of a a bad . die in scores , consequence an ccident l smell The soiled leaves and th e filth which they necessarily pro

u f f da d ce , should be care ully shi ted every y ; and it would not be amiss to purify the air someti mes with fumes of vine

or - fl w a o er a . gar, rose, or nge w ter These niceties , however,

a are but little observed . They commonly lye in he ps as a f thick as shrimps in a pl te , some eeding on the leaves , some new in of hatched, some entranced the agonies casting their

422 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

a a but neither she nor her m te t kes any nourishment , and or f r in eight ten days a te they quit the cocons , they gener

f an be . o ally die The silk these cocons c not be wound ,

a a i n h hav e c use the nimals , piercing through t em , destroyed f f c o a . the ontinuity the fil ments It is , there ore , first boiled ,

an d n f and then picked and carded like wool , bei g a terwards

s a uff of f . pun , is used in the co rser st s the silk manu acture a The other cocons , which yield the best silk , are m naged ff f in a di erent manner . Be ore the inclosed worm has time t o off a a penetrate , the silk is reeled with equ l c re and inge f f of unity . A hand ul o the cocons are thrown into a kettle

a boiling water , which not only kills the anim l , but dissolves the glutinous substance by which the fine filaments of the s or are ilk cohere stick together, so that they easily wound ff or of O without breaking . Six seven these small filaments of n being joined together, are passed over a kind twisti g iron , h one i and fixed to the wheel , whic girl turns , wh le another,

a with her h nds in the boiling water, disentangles the threads , w f joins them hen they chance to break , and supplies resh

m a a cocons with ad ir ble dexterity and disp tch . There is a manufacture Of this kind just without one of the gates of

f t or f of are Nice , where or y fi ty these wheels worked to for th e gether, and give employment some weeks to double

of a n umber young women . Those who m an age the pods th t

a a float in the boiling w ter must be very lert, otherwise they

will scald their fingers . The smell th at comes from the

li ff a boi ng cocons is extremely O ensive . H rd by the harbour ,

t a l for here is very curious mil twisting the silk , which goes

of by water . There is in the town Nice a well regulated hospital for poor orph ans of both sexes ; where above one

of ar e in hundred them employed dressing, dyeing , spinning,

. of ou and weaving the silk In the villages Provence , y see the poor women in the streets spinning raw silk upon dis taves ; but here the same instrument is only used for spin n of ing hemp and flax ; which last, however, is not the Of e — t growth Nic But, lest I should spin this le ter to a te o dions length , I will now wind up my bottom , and bid y u h f eartily arewell . 2 TRAVEL S TH ROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 4 3

LETTER XXIII .

4 N ice, December 1 9 , 1 76 .

IN of my last , I gave you a succinct account the silk worm , and the management of that curious insect in this country . I shall now proceed to describe the methods of m aking wine o and il.

The Vintage begins in September . The grapes being f chosen and care ully picked , are put into a large vat , where ’ f a n they are pressed by a man s naked eet , and the juices dr w ff O by a cock below. When no more is procured by this i operation , the bruised grapes are put nto the press , and yield still more liquor . The juice Obtained by this double pressure being put in casks , with their bungs open . begins to ferment and discharge its impurities at the Openings . The waste occasioned by this discharge is constantly supplied with fresh wine ; so that the casks are always full . The f for f or ermentation continues twelve, fi teen , twenty days , In according to the strength and vigour of the grape . about a month the wine is fit for drinking . When the grapes of a are a bad me gre kind, the wine dealers mix the juice ’ or with pigeon s dung quicklime, in order to give it a spirit which nature has denied ; but this is a very mischievous adulteration .

The process for oil maki ng i s equally simple . The best olives are those that grow wild ; but the quantity O f them is a nd the very inconsiderable . Olives begin to ripen drop in beginning O f November ; but some remain on the trees till

February , and even till April , and these are accounted the most valuable . When the Olives are gathered , they must f t r f f w be manu ac u ed immediately, be ore they ade and gro wrinkled, otherwise they will produce bad Oil . They are

first of all ground into a paste by a mill - stone set edge- ways i n t a a circular stone trough , and turned by wa er This p ste

‘ of a is put into circular cases made gr ss woven , having a r b ound hole at top and bottom ; when filled , they resem le n of i shape our Cheshire cheeses . A number these placed 42 4 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE AND ITALY . one a ar e upon nother , put in a press , and being squeezed ,

all a the oil , with its impurities , runs into receptacle below ,

fixed in the ground . From hence it is ladled into a wooden f a a . or fa vat, h l filled with w ter The sordes dirt lls to the a an d O ff bottom ; the oil swims top ; being skimmed , is

a a b rrelled up in sm ll oblong casks . Wh at remains in the v at a a a an d f is thrown into l rge stone cistern with w ter, a ter

f and a f a being o ten stirred , st nding twelve or ourteen d ys , a f f yields a co rser Oil used for lamps and manu actures . A Oil ter these processes , they extract an still more coarse and f f m f f o . m etid ro the re use the whole Someti es , in order to m th e a an d a ake Olives grind the more e sily into a paste , p rt

ar e h ot a : with more oil , they mixed with a little w ter but h the Oil t us procured is apt to grow rancid . The very finest ,

a of an d c lled virgin Oil , is made chiefly green Olives , sold

a a at a very high price , bec use a great qu ntity is required to a il ff f af all produce very little O . Even the stu that is le t ter

of for f these operations , consisting the dried pulp, is sold uel ,

br a s i er es for e and used in , warming apartments which hav n o chimney . I h ave now specified all the manufactures of Nice which are worth mentioning . True it is , there is some coarse paper m ade in this neighbourhood ; there are also people here w ho dress skins and make leather for the use of the i n

a : h habit nts but t is business is very ill performed . The gloves and shoes are generally rotten as they come from the

of m a a a hands the ker . C rpenters , joiners , and bl cksmiths

an d . work , is very coarsely clumsily done There are no

a h ad at a h of fe w ch irs to be Nice, but cr zy t ings made a

for sticks , with rush bottoms , which are sold twelve livres

h a a a dozen . Not ing can be more contemptible th n the h rd

a a s and w re made in this pl ce ; such as knives , cissors ,

- ff i a an d are candle snu ers . All utensils n br ss copper very

a and ill m de finished . The silversmiths make nothing but s f for of poons , orks, paltry rings, and crosses the necks the women . The houses are built of a ragged stone dug from the m o at ountains, and the interstices are filled with rubble ; s th

S N T 42 6 TRAVEL THROUGH FRA CE A N D I ALY .

’ w ater s edge . The people here were much surprised when a i n of h I began to b the the beginning May . T ey thought

a a man it very str nge th t a , seemingly consumptive , should

s ea a th e plunge into the , especi lly when weather was so cold ; and some of the doctors prognosticated immediate death . But when it was perceived that I grew better in

of a O f f consequence the b th , some the Swiss o ficers tried the

a in fe w a our a s me experiment, and , a d ys , ex mple was

f a of . ollowed by several inh bitants Nice There is , however, for a f m of w h no convenience this Oper tion , ro the benefit hic

fa the ir sex must be entirely excluded , unless they lay aside all regard to decorum ; for th e shore is always lined with

fi a and h . If a shing bo ts , crowded wit people a l dy should

at of a on a be the expense h ving a tent pitched the be ch ,

on O ff a where she might put and her b thing dress , she could

a not pretend to go into the sea , without proper attend nts ;

she a nor could possibly plunge he dlong into the water, which is the most effectual and least d angerous way of bath

a a ing . All th t she can do is , to have the se water brought

a of a - ma into her house, and m ke use bathing tub , which y ’ a wn a be m de according to her o or physici n s direction .

IVhat f a s a of this an d urther I h ve to y climate country , you sh all h ave in my next and then you will be released f a h f a rom subject, w ich I am a r id has been but too circum

s tantiall a . y h ndled by , sir, your very humble servant

TT LE ER XXIV .

N ice Januar 4 1 765. D E A R S I R , , y , i f HE constitution of this climate may be pretty well ascer taine d f m of a , ro the enclosed register the we ther , which I a kept with all possible care and a ttention . From a perus l of it you will see there is less wind and rain at Nice th an in any other part of the world th at I know ; and such is the

of air serenity the , that you see nothing above your head for v se eral months together , but a charming blue expanse, ’ I v f without cloud or speck . Vhate er clouds may be ormed

a f m sea or by ev poration ro the , they seldom never hover

s in all are , over this mall territory ; but, probability, at S 4 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 27

h f i tracted by the mountains that surround it, and t ere all n

or : for f m rain snow as those that gather ro other quarters , I suppose their progress hitherward is Obstructed by those

one of very Alps which rise over another , to an extent many

. dr an d a leagues This air being y, pure , heavy , el stic, must be agreeable to the constitution of those who labour n u d e r a f ers ira disorders rising rom weak nerves , obstructed p p ‘ of tion , relaxed fibres , a viscidity lymph , and a languid

c . a irculation In other respects it encour ges the scurvy, the atmosphere being undoubtedly impregnated with s ea

s . alt Ever since my arrival at Nice, I have had a seor butical on a eruption my right h nd , which diminishes and

increases according to the state Of my health . One day last f summer, when there was a strong breeze rom the sea, the s fa of our was a ur ce bodies covered with a s lt brine , very of an perceptible to the taste ; my gums , as well as those

in fa n other person my mily, began to swell , and grow pai ful f , though this had never happened be ore ; and I was was s eized with violent pains in the joints of my knees . I t - f hen at a country house ronting the sea , and particularly e Of our xposed to the marine air . The swelling gums sub

s f a ided as the wind ell ; but wh t was very remarkable , the on n scurvy spot my hand disappeared , and did not retur

f r - o . ff a s e a a whole month It is a irmed , th t salt will dissolve and render the blood so fluid , that it will exude through

of s e a- the coats the vessels . Perhaps the scurvy is a par

of a f air tial dissolution it , by th t mineral absorbed rom the

o f of and by the lymphatics n the sur ace the body , by those of the lungs in respiration . Certain it is , in the last stages

of - f f the sea scurvy , the blood o ten bursts rom the pores and this phenomenon is imputed to a high degree of putre IVe faction ; sure enough it is a ttended with putrefaction . know that a certain quantity of salt is required to preserve the animal juices from growing putrid ; but how a greater a t f w a qu n ity should produce putre action , I leave to iser he ds a to explain . Many people here have scorbutical compl ints ,

though their teeth are not affected . They are subject to e o s k u ruptions n the in , putrid g ms, pains in the bones , S 42 8 TRAVEL THROUGH FR A NCE AND ITALY .

a nd low l assitude , indigestion , spirits ; but the reigning a m a r a s mus or s distemper is , consumption , which proceed

a a h an a gr du lly , wit out y pulmon ry complaint , the com

m an d d plexion growing ore more flori , till the very last scene

w o ff Of a of th e tragedy . This I uld impute to th e e ects very

a a u a h ab dry, s line tmosphere , pon t in h it , in which there

w air r . is an extraordin ary aste by perspiration . The is e mark abl a h b a th e a a y s lt in t is district , ec use mount ins th t

' hem it in prevent its communication W i th the circumambient

h h th e ali a c l h e atmosp ere , in w ich s ne p rti les wou d ot rwise

ff and h a dew a a be di used ; t ere is no r in , nor , to p rticip te , or b dissolve th em . Such an air a s I h ave descri ed should h ave n o bad ff a a e ect upon moist phlegm tic constitution , such as mi an d v e t b a b i a ne ; it must e owned , I h ve een v sibly w st

a I d ing since I came hither , though this dec y consi ered as of ta b b the progress the es which egan in England . But the air of Nice has had a Stlll more sensible effect upon Mr

2 a a Sc , who l boured under nervous compl ints to such a

a f w. as a d had a a degree , th t li e bur en to him . He lso fixed

a for h a h ad f pain in his bre st , w ich compl int he ormerly th e air of a a e tried N ples , where he resided some consider bl

a n d a a a time , in gre t me sure recovered ; but this returning

w a fa low and of a ith we kness , intness , spirits , entire loss p e he w as a h Of p tite , dvised to come hit er ; and the success

h as a his journey gre tly exceeded his expectation . Though

ath b a d for a the we er has een remark bly ba this clim te , he

f - h as h . a a t enjoyed per ect healt Since he rrived Nice, the

a his a a a i p in in bre st vanished ; he e ts he rt ly , sleeps well , is

i n an d a h e off high spirits , so strong , th t is never his legs

- da . can Var and a a in the y time He walk to the , b ck ag in , before dinner ; and h e has climbed to the tops O f all the

a h I s aw f h mount ins in this neighbour ood . never be ore suc a ff sudden and h ppy e ects fr om the ch ange of air . I must

a ha a a t lso acknowledge , t t ever since my arriv l Nice , I a f f a h ve breathed more reely than I had done or some ye rs , and h a f O f my spirits ve been more alert . The ather my

ce conome w as a - ff , who a d ncing master , had been so a licted an h e with asthmatic disorder, that e could not liv e in Franc ,

30 S A N D 4 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE ITALY.

a or f t twelve d ys a ortnight , and is extremely welcome to he f natives of this country . This rainy season is o ten delayed th e O f till latter end November, and sometimes to the month of : h O f e December in whic case , the rest the winter is g ll in n era y dry . The heavy rains this country generally come

- cr eber ue r ocellis with a south west wind , which was the g p

A r ica s of . lebecke ce r f the ancients It is here called , a

' r uption of Ly bzcus : it generally blows high for a day or f two, and rolls the Mediterranean be ore it in huge waves , f of that O ten enter the town Nice . It likewise drives before it all the clouds which h ad been formed above the surface

of . a f the Mediterranean These being expended in r in , air

a u . i rds weather n turally ens es For this reason , the N s s a le Le che r a c mm d l observe be co o e e terns . During the rains

Of n a this season , however, the winds have bee vari ble . of f of From the sixteenth November till the ourth January,

we have had two - an d- twenty days Of heavy rain : a very ex traordinary visitation in this country : but the seasons seem a f In to be more irregul r than ormerly , all over Europe . ’ of l a thermome the month Ju y , the mercury in F hrenheit s

- .t er f h , rose to eighty our at Rome ; the highest degree at whic it was ever known in that country ; and the very next day w the S abine mountains were covered with sno . The same on of phenomenon happened the eleventh August , and the f thirtieth of September . The consequence o these sudden of : f s fre .Variations weather was this putrid evers were les

of a quent than usual ; but the sudden check perspir tion , f thre ats rom the cold , produced colds , inflammatory sore , of .and the rheumatism . I know instances some English

a on th e v letudinarians , who have passed the winter at Aix, s upposition that there was little or no difference between th a t air and the climate of Nice : but this is a very great mis

fa . take, which may be attended with tal consequences Aix

is altogether exposed to the north and north - west winds , which blow as cold in Provence as ever I felt them on th e mountains of Scotland : whereas Nice 1 3 altogether screened f f rom these winds by the Maritime Alps, which orm an

- e amphitheatre to the land side, around this littl territory 4 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D I TALY . 81

but another incontestible proof of the mildness of this cli

a f a m te is deduced rom the or nges , lemons , citrons , roses ,

a - flower s n rcissuses , july , and jonquils , which ripen and

blo w in the middle of winter . I have described the agreeable side of this climate ; and

l out . now I wil point its inconveniences In the winter, but sun one especially in the spring, the is so hot , that can

of n h ardly take exercise any sort abroad , without being throw into a breathing sweat ; and the wind at this season is so cold f ff on and piercing, that it o ten produces a mischievous e ect If rarefies the pores thus opened . the heat the blood and s juices , while the cold air constringes the fibres, and obstruct

a . A c the perspiration , inflamm tory disorders must ensue cordin l g y, the people are then subject to colds , pleurisies ,

eri n eumonie s a f . old p p , and rdent evers An count advised to a ca r a l r s les lzumeur s me stay within doors in M rch , o

r Of c mmen cen t a s e r emue . o During the heats summer, few of a in of some persons gross h bits have, consequence f violent exercise and excess , been seized with putrid evers , erisi elatous attended with exanthemata , p , and miliary crup f in tions , which commonly prove atal ; but the people gene " r al are a a : a healthy , even those th t t ke very little exercise

fa O f a strong presumption in vour the clim te As to medicine ,

I know nothing of the practice of the Nice physicians . Here are eleven in all ; but four or five make shift to live by the

w f fee h f . a o pro ession They receive by y , ten sols (an Englis and s six pence) a visit, this but ill paid ; so you may gues whether they are in a condition to support the dignity of physic ; and whether any m an of a liberal education would f h at N . bury himsel . ice on such terms I am acquainted wit a n an Itali n physicia settled at Villa Franca , a very good

Of for a sort a man , who practises a certain s lary , raised by annual contribution among the better sort of people ; and an allowance from the king for visiting th e s ick belonging to the

garrison and the galleys . The whole may amount to near h t irty pounds . f n Among the inconveniences o this climate , the vermi

f and f orm no inconsiderable article . Vipers snakes are ound 482 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE A N D I TALY.

a . a a a in the mount ins Our g rdens sw rm with liz rds , and there ar e some fe w scorpions ; but as ye t I have seen but

of . a on e this species In summer , notwithst nding all the

an d a a in care prec utions we can t ke , we are pestered with wa Of a and a or credible s rms flies , fle s , bugs ; but the gn ts ,

u ns a a all . da co s i , are more intoler ble th n the rest In the y it fl out of time , is impossible to keep the ies your mouth , n ostrils , eyes , and ears . They crowd into your milk , tea ,

a and a a chocol te , soup , wine , w ter ; they soil your sug r,

a a an d f contamin te your victu ls , devour your ruit ; they

and f cover defile your urniture , floors , ceilings , and indeed

as ar e c us ins your whole body . As soon candles lighted , the o

a a a an d begin to buz bout your e rs in myri ds , torment you with their stings ; so tha t you h ave no rest n or respite till

ou are mus uito you get into bed , where y secured by your q a a a net . This inclosure is very dis gree ble in hot we ther, and

ar e very inconvenient to those , who , like me , subject to a ff f cough and spitting . It is moreover ine ectual ; for some o those cursed insects insinuate themselves within it almost d a f a of every night , an h l dozen them are sufficient to dis

turb you till morning . This is a plague th a t continues all

in a the year ; but summer it is intoler ble . During this sea

son , likewise, the moths are so mischievous , that it requires the utmost care to preserve woollen cloths from being d e

of Ma . Of stroyed From the month y, till the beginning

a a a October , the heat is so violent , th t you c nnot stir abro d ,

f at a a ter six in the morning till eight night , so th t you are of of entirely deprived the benefit exercise . There is no shaded w alk in or near the town ; and there is neither coach

a nor chaise to hire, unless you tr vel post . Indeed , there is no roa d fit for any wheel carri age but the common highway i n ou h to the Var, which y are scorched by the reflection Of t e

f a and a t a f sun rom the s nd stones , and the s me time hal d If . i n of th e stifled with ust you ride out the cool evening ,

of i a you will have the disadvantage returning n the d rk .

of a Among the demerits Nice , I must lso mention the f water which is used in the city . It is drawn rom wells ;

and for the most part so hard that it curdles with soap .

434! S T N A N TRAVEL HROUGH FRA CE D ITALY.

summer . This would be a salutary respite from the salt air of e a Nic , to those who labour under scorbutical compl ints ; f s and they would return with resh vigour and spirits , to pas

of is the winter in this place , where no severity weather

. f f a s s i ne known Last June, when I ound mysel so ill at my c ,

i a e a nd I had determ ned to go to Roc bili re, even to erect a b ut at f w the spring or my o n convenience . A gentleman of Nice undertook to procure me a tolerable lodging in th e

0 of . H e me house the cure , who was his relation assured

wa s of f u t there no want resh butter , good po ltry , excellen

a d a of ve l , and elicate trout ; and th t the articles living might be had at R ocabiliar e for half the price we paid at Nice : but finding myself grow better immediately on m fr ca s s in e own not y return om the to my house , I would

f of f put mysel to the trouble and expense a urther removal . I think I have now communicated all the p articulars re l to a ating Nice th t are worth knowing, and perhaps many more than you desired to know ; but in such cases I would

u a t rather be tho ght prolix and unentert ining , than deficien

a an d a in th t regard ttention with which I am very sincerely, your friend and servant .

XXV LET TER .

DE A R SI i anua R , N ce, J ry I , 1 765.

I T f f own was in de erence to your opinion , rein orced by my

i a and of f nclin tion , the repeated advice other riends , that I

resolved upon my late excursion to Italy . I could plainly perceive fr om the anxious solicitude and pressing exh orta t ions contained in all the letters I had lately received from m of y correspondents in Britain , that you had all despaired m Y ou a y recovery . dvised me to make a pilgrimage among

. a the Alps , and the advice was good In scrambling mong t a hose mount ins , I should have benefited by the exercise,

a and at the same time h ve breathed a cool , pure, salubrious

air a a w , which , in all prob bility , would . h ve expelled the slo

fever arising in a grea t measure from the h eat of this climate.

B t n - w e con u I wanted a compa ion and fellow traveller, hos 4 TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 35

f v ersation and society could allevi ate the horrors o solitude . B w as of esides , I not strong enough to encounter the want

c of e onveniencies , and even necessaries , to which I must hav f M b een exposed in the course o such an expedition . y worthy friend Dr A earnestly entreated me to try the e ff of s ea v o a e of ect a y g , which you know has been wonder f ul ffi f ase . e cacy in consumptive c s A ter some deliberation , w I resolved upon the scheme , hich I have now happily exe

d it s a c ute . I had most eager curiosity to ee the ntiquities o f Florence and Rome : I longed imp atiently to view those f a so wonder ul edifices , st tues , and pictures , which I had

f f n n O ten admired in prints and descriptions . I elt a e thu s iastic ardour to trea d th a t very classical ground which h ad been the scene of so many grea t achievements ; and I could not bear the though t of returning to England from the very

s of a of kirts Italy , without having penetr ted to the capital

t . r w hat renowned country With rega d to my health , I kne I could man age matters so as to enjoy all the be nefits th at c ould be expected from the uni te d energy of a voy age by

e a ourn a of a . sea , j y by land , and change clim te Rome is betwixt four and five hundred miles distant from

one f of th e w a w as Nice , and hal y I resolved to travel by h w f f water . Indeed t ere is no other ay o going rom hence

a a a and a to Geno , unless you t ke mule , clamber long the

a a of t wo i a n and a t mount ins at the r te m les hour, the risk

O f a en nin e bre king your neck every minute. The App moun et ains a a of , which are no other th n a continu tion the mari t f a f m ime Alps , orm an lmost continued precipice ro Ville

a f - fi v e on Franche to Lerici , which is lmost orty miles the o ther side of Genoa ; an d as they are generally washed by

t he or th e a sea , there is no beach shore, consequently ro d is

c fa of a arried along the ce the rocks , except at cert in small

i a a nterv ls , which are occupied by towns and vill ges . But

for and f o as there is a road mules o t passengers , it might cer tainly be enlarged and improved so as to render it practi

and - a cable by chaises other wheel c rriages , and a toll might be f the exacted , which in a little time would de ray expense ; for cer a o f E t i nly no p erson who travels t Italy rom ngland, S 436 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE A N D I TALY .

la or a a u Hol nd , France , Sp in , would m ke a tro blesome cir

a wa of a and if cuit to p ss the Alps by the y S voy Piedmont, he could h ave the c onvenience of going post by th e w ay of

A ix s N a of e diterra , Antibe , and ice, long the side the M

an an d of f ne , through the Riviera Genoa , which , rom the

s ea aff a a z , ords the most agree ble and ma ing prospect I ever

beheld . What pity it is they cannot restore the celebrated

Via A ur elia in m of , mentioned the Itinerariu Antoninus,

f w a of which extended rom Rome by the y Genoa , and through this country as far as Arles upon the Rhone . It was said to h ave been m ade by the emperor Marcus Aure lius ; an d some O f th e vestiges of it are still to be seen in Pro

Of a vence . The truth is , the nobility Geno , who are all m a f a low all erch nts , rom , selfish , and absurd policy , take methods to keep their subjects of the Riviera in poverty and f dependence . With this View , they care ully avoid all steps towards rendering that country accessible by l and ; and at

a the s me time discourage their trade by sea, lest it should f of in inter ere with the commerce their capital , which they t hemselves are personally concerned .

or are Those who either will not cannot bear the sea, and

in a equally averse to riding, may be carried common chair, ’ f - a : th e provided with a oot bo rd , on men s shoulders this is way of travelling practised by the ladies of Nice in crossing the mountains to Turin ; but it is very tedious and expen h f e . sive , as the men must o ten relieved The most agreeable carri age from hence to Gen oa is a

f a or or . elucc , open boat , rowed by ten twelve stout mariners of Though none these boats belong to Nice, they are to be found every day in our harbour waiting for a fare to Genoa ; and they are seen passing and repassing continually , with m or a en erchandize p ssengers , betwe Marseilles , An tibes , and the Genoese territories . A felucca is large enough to take i n a post - ch aise ; and there is a tilt over the stern sheets where the passengers sit to protec t them from the rain : between a one the se ts person may lie commodiously upon a mattress, which is commonly supplied by the patron . A man in good h ealth may put up with any thing ; but I would advise every

8 , H R A D I 43 TRAVEL S TH ROUG F ANCE N TALY .

For own f e o my part , I hired a gondola rom henc to Gen a . o a f f This is a b at smaller th n a elucca , rowed by our men , a nd c steered by the patron ; but the price was nine ze hins,

for f of e rather more than I should have paid a elucca ten ar s .

was s e t. I as ured that , being very light , it would mak grea way ; and the m aster w as particularly recommended to me as an honest man and an able mariner . I was accompanied in this voyage by my wife an d Miss C together with one of i w a h the Mr R a native N ce, hom I tre ted wit in as a u s jaunt, hopes that , he was cq ainted with the custom of ff of a i n he the country, and the di erent ways tr velling it , would save us much trouble and some expense ; but I was

much disappointed . Some persons at Nice offe red to lay h i f f wagers t at he would return by h msel rom Italy , but they were also disappointed . in of W e embarked the beginning September, attended

on e . a by servant The heats , which render tr velling danger

. h wa ous in Italy , begin to abate at this season The weat er s

if h ad a e xtremely agreeable ; and , I postponed my voy ge a f a be little longer, I oresaw th t I should not be able to return fore winter ; in which case I might have found the sea too r for of one ough , and the weather too cold , a voyage hundred

and thirty - five miles in an open boa t . f m f Having there ore provided ysel with a proper pass, our l of s igned and sealed by consu , as well as with letters r ecommendation from him to the English consuls at Genoa

and n a all L eghor , a precaution which I would dvise travel l to of on ers take, in case meeting with accidents the road, w e on went board about ten in the morning, stopped about ’ ‘ t f f - of hal an hour at a riend s country house in the bay S .

of a Hospice, and about noon entered the harbour Mon co , w th e the here patron was obliged to pay toll, according to n f r egulatio which I have explained in a ormer letter . This s or mall town , containing about eight nine hundred souls, b on o esides the garrison , is built a rock , which projects int ’ the s ea s , and makes a very romantic appearance . The prince n in n s of palace sta ds the most co picuous part , with a walk

“

trees ef re it. The tme r f s b o apar nts a e elegantly urni hed, and TRAVEL S THR OUGH F R ANCE AND I TALY. 39

f in adorn ed with some good pictures . The ortifications are

a good repair, and the place is g rrisoned by two French bat

ta . e of a a son lions The pres nt prince Mon co is Frenchman , of who of the duke de Matignon , married the heiress Monaco , w hose name was Grimaldi . The h arbour is well sheltered f f rom the wind , but has not water su ficient to admit vessels

f r of . o Sa any great burden Towards the north , the king ’ dinia s territories extend to within a mile Of the gate ; but th e prince of Monaco can go upon his own ground along

or far s hore about five six miles to the eastward , as as Men ten no is , a ther small town , which also belongs to him , and s ituated on the sea side . His revenues are computed at a

of million French livres , amounting to something more than forty thousand pounds sterling : but the principality of Mo of n aco, consisting three small towns , and an inconsiderable

of n tr ack barre rock , is not worth above seven thousand

- f a year ; the rest arises rom his French estate . This consis ts

of of of partly the duchy Matignon , and partly the duchy f al tinois a was of s o V en , which l st given to the ancestors thi

of 1 640 prince Monaco , in the year , by the French king, to a of of m ke up the loss some lands in the kingdom Naples, which were confiscated when he expelled the Spanish gar f m c w f of rison ro Mona o , and thre himsel into the arms

f Valen tinois f France ; so that he is duke O as well as o M3. tignon , in that kingdom . He lives almost constantly in

a has n of Fr nce and taken the ame and arms Grimaldi . i The Genoese territor es begin at Ventimiglia, another t on a of f m own lying the coast , at a dist nce twenty miles ro n f m Nice ; a circumsta ce ro which it borrows the name . of Having passed the towns Monaco , Menton , Ventimiglia, and several other places of less consequence that lie along t of S . a f this coast , we turned the point M rtin with a avour f able breeze, and might have proceeded twenty miles urther

for a s be e night ; but the women began to be sick , well as afraid at the roughness of the water : Mr R was so dis he e composed , that privately desired the patron to put ashor t at S . on Remo , pretence that we should not find a tolerable a in and uberge any other place between this Noli . which 440 S T TRAVEL HROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . w as a of f at the dist nce orty miles . We accordingly landed,

o our , and were conducted to the p ste , which gondoliere as

sured us was the best auberge in the whole Riviera of Genoa .

a a of We ascended by dark , n rrow , steep stair, into a kind a a and public room , with long t ble and benches , so dirty

a a r - e miser ble , th t it would disg ace the worst hedge ale hous

a u s . in England . Not a soul appe red to receive This is a

on e to a , far ceremony , must not expect meet with in Fr nce

a . a a less in It ly Our patron , going into the kitchen , sked

s if a d ervant the company could h ve lo ging in the house,

a n ot and was answered , he could not tell ; the p tron was ’

. o a at home When he desired to kn w where the p tron was , ’ th e a was a air E a n other nswered, he gone to t ke the ,

da t a a ss e i a r e . a o p g In the me ntime, we were obliged to sit

in the common room among watermen and muleteers . At

a a u length the l ndlord arrived , and g ve us to nderstand that

w t . he could accommodate us i h chambers In that where I .

for or lay , there was Just room two beds , without curtains

old a bedstead , an rotten table covered with dried figs , and . w a on . i couple of crazy chairs . The w lls had been ce h te l washed , but were now hung with cobwebs , and s peck ed

with dirt of all sorts ; and I believe the brick - floor had not

been swept for half a century . We supped in an outward

i n and f room , suitable all respects to the chamber , ared vil

lanousl . y The provision was very ill dressed , and served up

Y ou not , in the most slovenly m anner . must expect clean

lines s or of an in . For conveniency y kind _ this country this a ccommodation I p aid as much as if I had be en elegantly f entertained in the best auberge o France or Italy .

Next day , the wind was so high that we could not pro s ecute our a voy ge , so that we were obliged to pass other

- - f four and twenty hours in this com ortable situation . Lueki f one ly M . R ound two acquaintances in the place ; a f a f a mces tr o di ranciscan monk , jolly ellow ; and the other

ca ella wh o p , sent a spinet to the inn , and entertained us v f a of h agreeably with his oice and per orm nce, in both whic

accomplishments he excelled . The padre was very good f of n n humoured, and avoured us with a letter recomme datio

2 S TH ROUGH N I 44 TRAVEL FRA CE AND TALY . e a f n astward is Oneglia , a sm ll town with some ortificatio s,

in ly g along the open beach , and belonging to the king Of

. a a Sardinia This sm ll territory bounds with Olive trees , w a a a Of th e hich produce consider ble qu ntity Oil , counted

of . a n th best the whole Riviera Albeng , is a small tow , e of ff a an Of see a bishop , su r g to the archbishop Genoa.

a a I t lies upon the sea , and the county produces a gre t qu n Of tity Of hemp . Finale is the capital a m arquisate belong t he of h ing to Genoese , which has been the source muc

Of trouble to the republic ; and indeed , was the sole cause their rupture with the king Of Sardinia and the house of 1 4 Austria in the year 7 5 . The town is pretty well built ;

a a af : but the h rbour is sh llow , open , and uns e nevertheless , they build a good number of tartans and other vessels on the bea ch ; and the neighbouring country abounds with Oil and f omi ruit, particularly with those excellent apples called p

a r li f . c , which I have mentioned in a ormer letter

oli In the evening we reached the Capo di N , counted very dangerous in blowing weather . It is a very high perpen di lar or a a cu rock mount in , washed by the sea , which has e ten f r a Of ca into it in divers places, so as to orm a g e t number O f verns . I t extends about a couple miles , and in some

' or b parts is indented into little creeks ays , where there is a w f n arro margin o sandy beach between it and the water . When the wind is high no felucca will attempt to pass it

a e ven in a moderate breeze, the waves dashing ag inst the

rocks and caverns,which echo with the sound , make such n f h a aw ul noise, and , at the same time, occasion suc a one f r ough sea, as cannot hear, and see, and eel, without a

s ecret horror . On this side Of the cape there is a beautiful strand culti vated like a garden ; the plantations extend to the very tops of the hills , interspersed with villages , castles , churches , h and villas . Indeed the whole Riviera is ornamented in t e

s of ame manner, except in such places as admit no building

nor cultivation .

the f of Having passed cape, we ollowed the winding the co s of ast into a mall bay , and arrived at the town Noli, T RAVEL S TH ROUGH F RANCE A N D ITALY.

ou where we proposed to pass the night . Y will be surprised re that we did not go ashore sooner, in order to take some f had of h am reshment ; but the truth is , we a provision , t ch ees e bread f in ongues roasted pullets , , , wine , and ruit , / th e f da elucca, where we every y enjoyed a slight repast, ’ about one or two o clock in the afternoon . This I mention as a necess ary piece of information to those w ho may be i n f f con cli ned to ollow the same route . We likewise ound it ven ient of Ter m de Me or a for us e to lay in store , br ndy , the

of th w a f . O n g ro ers , who lways expect to share your com orts a da h r a amuffin s of meagre y, however , t ese g will rather die hunger than suffer the least morsel O f flesh meat to enter

t i . f he r mouths I have requently tried the experiment , by

r as on a a or pressing them to eat something g , Frid y Satur day but they always declined it with marks of abhorren ce

Dio me n o li ber e ! f m or crying, God deliver me ro it some ff o t o . a not ther words that e ect I moreover Observed , th t one of f a or those ellows ever swore an o th , spoke an indecent w a s ea of ord . They would by no me ns put to a morning before they heard mass ; and when the wind was unfa vour a out a ble , they always set with hymn to the blessed Virgin , t or S . . Elmo, keeping time with their oars as they sung I h man ave , indeed, remarked all over this country , that a wh o transgresses the institutions of the church in these small m f one atters, is much more in amous than who has commit t ed the most flagrant crimes against nature and morality .

A or s — abs o murderer, adulterer , te , will obtain easy lution f m fa o ro the church , and even find v ur with society but who s o on s a man eat a pige n a Saturday , without expres

c of . licen e, is avoided and abhorred as a monster reprobation I have conversed with several intelligent person s on the sub

and a of jcet ; have reason to believe , th t a delinquent this

s t ‘ c a or is onsidered as a lukew rm catholic, little better than

of th e a heretic ; and , all crimes, they look upon heresy as

most damnable . Noli is a small republic of fishermen subject to Genoa ; a on but very te nacious of their privileges . The town st nds the a t f t e be ch, tolerably well buil , de ended by a castle si uat d ' 4M TR AVELS THRO UGH FRA N CE AND ITALY on a rock above it ; and the harbour is of little consequence; The auberge was such as made us regret even the inn we had t f . f f S . o h le t at Remo A ter a very Odd kind supper, whic

to : but I cannot pretend to describe , we retired our repose not in f I had been bed five minutes , when I elt something

on ff a of and a t crawling di erent p rts my body , , t king a ligh

of . to examine, perceived above a dozen large bugs You must know I have the same kind of antipathy to these ver min that some persons have to a cat or breast of veal . I s a m f t tarted up immediately , and , wr pping ysel in a grea i in coat , s ck as I was , laid down the outer room upon a

chest , where I continued till morning. One would imagine that in a mountainous country lik e this there should be plenty of goats ; and indeed we s aw of f many flocks them eeding among the rocks , yet we could

f of for . our if n not procure hal a pint milk tea , we had give

. of the weight of it in gold . The people here have no idea u l ou m for a . sing mi k , and when y ask the it, they stand g p f f of ing with a oolish ace surprise, which is exceedingly a the provoking . It is amazing that instinct does not te ch f ’ h peasants to eed their children with goat s milk, so muc more nourishing and agreeable than the wretched sustenance n Sa o which they live . Next day we rowed by Vado and

vona, which last is a large town , with a strong citadel , and h f r of a harbour, whic was orme ly capable receiving large s f l of hips ; but it el a sacrifice to the jealousy the Genoese,

a on not who have p rtly choked it up , pretence that it should afford shelter to the ships of war be longing to those states w hich might be at enmity with the republic .

Then we passed Albisola , Sestri di Ponente, Novi , Voltri ,

and of i a a a great number v llages , villas , and m gnificent p f t laces belonging to the Genoese nobility, which orm almos a continued chain of buildings along the strand for thirty

miles . f s About five in the a ternoon , we skirted the fine suburb f t ’ o S . D A rena Petro , and arrived at Genoa, which makes a f e dazzling appearance when viewed rom the sea, arising lik ’ a n f f amphitheatre in a circular orm , rom the water s edge,

4 S O N A ND 4 6 TRAVEL THR UGH FRA CE ITALY . a bout h alf a dozen of their nobles who have ten thous and a- year ; but the m ajority have not above a twentieth part o f that sum. They live with great parsimony in their f a i n amilies , and wear nothing but bl ck public ; so that f their expen s es are but small . I a Genoese nobleman gives an a a a entert inment once a qu rter, he is s id to live upon the f fragments all the rest o the year . I was told th at one of

a a f an d f them l tely tre ted his riends , le t the entertainment t o the a of a dish ‘ of a c re his son , who ordered fish th t cost a a b te n h l z . Th echin , which is equ l to a out s il ings sterling e old e a a a on gentl m n no sooner saw it ppe r the table , than, u a nable to suppress his concern , he burst into te rs , and ex ' c a m Alz, Fi lzuolo i nde n o ! S ia mo i n R vi na ! l i ed , g g o S ia mo

’ i n p r ecipiz zo I think the pride or ostentation of the Italians in general f t a t o . akes a more l udable turn than hat other nations A . Frenchm an lays out his whole revenue upon tawdry suits of c or f r e a s of ft or lothes , in urnishn a magnificent p fi y an on e a f of not in hundred dishes , h l which are eatable, nor

t . e r i ier his ended to be eaten His wardrobe go s to the f p , d s lf a nd f his i hes to the dogs . and himse to the devil , , a ter

d no Of s . on th e ecease , vestige him remain A Genoese, o a f f ther h nd , keeps himsel and his amily at short allowance,

a ma a th t he y s ve money to build palaces and churches, f a of t e which remain to a ter ages so m ny monuments his ast ,

mun ificence and a piety , and ; , in the me ntime, give em

and b ployment read to the poor and industrious . There are s o or c me Genoese nobles who have each five six elegant pala es ,

f the or difi er en t magnificently urnished , either in city , in parts of the Riviera . The two streets called S tr a da B a lbi

S tr a da N u va c of a a s and o , are ontinued double ranges p l ce a dorned with gardens and fountains ; bu t their being paint

e d in o ff . on the outside , has , my opini n , a poor e ect The commerce of this city is at present n ot very consider

i t fa of abl e ; yet has the ce business . The streets are crowd ed with people ; the shops are well furnished ; and the of The markets abound with all sorts excellent provision . ine a e i s e o h w i iffe w m d n thi n ighbourh od is, o ever, very nd r A TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE N D ITALY . 447 ent ; and all that is consumed must be bought at the public

n tinr e for of th e a . ca , where it is sold the benefit st te Their bread is the whitest and the best I have tasted anywhere ;

nd f f a the bee , which they have rom Piedmont , is juicy and

of a delici ous . The expense eating in Italy is ne rly the sam e

a- for as in France, about three shillings head every meal . f r t o e of S . e The state Genoa is v y poor , and their bank Georg

f th e of th e has received such rude shocks , first rom revolt

f f f of i Corsicans , and a terwards rom the mis ortunes the c ty, of 1 45 t when it was taken by the Austrians in the war 7 , tha

a of it still continues to languish , without any ne r prospect i ts credit being restored . Nothing shews the weakness of e their state more than their having recourse to the assistanc . of France to put a stop to the progress of Paoli in Corsica ; for f h as a of a e , a ter all that been s id the g llantry and courag

f his a am f t o Paoli and isl nders , I very credibly in ormed, tha if they might be very easily suppressed , the Genoese had or in either vigour in the council resolution the field . ff t in th e True it is , they made a noble e or expelling t of e i Austrians , who had aken possession th ir c ty ; but this e ff ff of a if ort was the e ect Oppression and desp ir ; and , I may believe the insinuation of some politicians in this part of th e a at world, the Genoese would not h ve succeeded in that

if not e tempt , they had previously purchased with a larg s um of money the connivance of the only person who could

f . For ow n a en de eat the enterprise my p rt , I can scarce ter tain thoughts so prejudicial to the character of human na of ture, as to suppose a man capable sacrificing, to such a all re consideration , the duty he owed his prince , as well as of la in gard to the lives his soldiers , even those who y sick a a f hospit ls , and who , being dr gged orth , were miserably

f on butchered by the urious populace . There is e more pre

o of f of sumpti n his innocence , he still retains the avour his

a in sovereign , who could not well be supposed to sh re the booty . There are mysteries in politics which were never ’ of in our a ! of dreamed philosophy , Hor tio The possession

e m of Genoa might have prov d a troubleso e bone contention , w hich it might be convenient to lose by accident . C ertain 448 S T A N TRAVEL HROUGH FRANCE D I TALY .

A a af i n it is , when the ustri ns returned ter their expulsion , o d th e u r er to retake the city , engineer, being q estioned by the a a f gener l , declared he would t ke the place in fi teen days , on p ain of losing his head ; and in four days after this de claratio a n the Austri ns retired . This anecdote I learned f of - i f m rom a worthy gentleman this country , who had t ro ’ o w a the engineer s n mouth . Perh ps it was the will of Hea

Y o f a ven . u see how avour bly Providence has interposed in a f of of in beh l the reigning empress Russia , first removing

a of her husb nd ; secondly , in ordaining the assassination

a for l Prince Iv n , which the perpetrators have been so liberal y rewarded ; it even seems determined to shorten the life of

own f her son , the only surviving rival rom whom she had any thing to fear . The Genoese have n owthrown themsel ves into the arm s of France for protection : I kno w not wh e ther i t would not have been a mark of greater saga city to cultivate the friend s of a on a n a a us hip Engl nd , with which they carry dv ntageo

W ar e a of editer commerce . hile the English m sters the M r an can , t e they will always have it “ in heir power to do incr d a all a e dible am ge long the Riviera , to ruin the Genoes

s e a a for notwith trade by , and even to annoy the c pital ;

. s tanding all the pains they h ave taken to fortify the mole an d am if the city , I greatly deceived it is not still exposed

a of of to the d nger, not only a bombardment , but even a cannonade . I am even s anguine enough to think a resolute

a a in commander might , with a strong squ dron , s il directly

a i a a a n otwith to the h rbour , w thout sust ining much d m ge,

all of a t s tanding the cannon the place, which are said to moun

d a a a f f to near five hundre . I h ve seen a c nnon de o above our

of hundred pieces artillery , besides bombs and cohorns ,

for a f. maintained m ny hours , without doing much mischie a of a i During the l st siege Geno , the French aux liaries were o at a of n bliged to wait Mon co , until a gale wind had drive

Off and the English squadron the coast , then they went along

a of n shore in sm ll vessels , at the imminent risk being take by the British cruisers . By land I apprehend their march w l be a if of a. ou d ltogether impracticable, the king Sardini

450 TRA S R A N D T . “ VEL THROUGH F ANCE I ALY

I had attachments at Nice from which I could not easily

disengage myself. i ‘ The fe w days we staid at Genoa were employed in visiting f the most remarkable churches and palaces . In some o the h of An n un cia m f a c urches, particularly that the , I ound f of pro usion ornaments , which had more magnificence than

taste . There is a great number of pictures ; but very few of a them are capit l pieces . I had heard much of the P on te ’ mv n a n o n ot C g , which did at all answer my expectation . It f is a bridge that unites two eminences , which orm the high of th m w er part e city , and the houses in the botto belo do not f rise so high as the springing o its arches . There is no a ll thing t a curious in its construction , nor any way remark l Of f m ab e, except the height , the piers ro which the arches are sprung . Hard by the bridge there is an elegant church , from the top of which you have a very rich and extensive of the ea prospect the city , s , and the adjacent country , i of con t nént . which looks like a , groves and villas The only

a remarkable circumstance bout the cathedral , which is a i t e Gothic nd gloomy , s h chapel where the pretended bones f th o John e Baptist are deposited , and in which thirty silver

lamps are continually burning . I had a curiosity to see the palaces of Durazzo and Doria but it required more trouble to procure admission than I was willing to give myself : as

for of the arsenal , and the rostrum an ancient galley which f was ound by accident in dragging the harbour, I postponed

seeing them till my return . Having here provided myself with letters of credit for Flo

d a h ad rence an Rome , I hired the s me boat which brought f to us hither, to carry us orward Lerici , which is a small f a town about hal way between Geno and Leghorn , where

a ar e of a - con tr vellers , who tired the sea, t ke post chaises to

tinue their route by land to Pisa an d Florence . I paid ’ loui dor es for a of f three this voy ge about fi ty miles , though

I might have had a felucca for less money . When you land

on f a f - the whar at Geno , you are plied by the elucca men ,

just as you are plied by the watermen at Hungerford - stairs ’ ar Off in London . They e always ready to set at a minute s S R 4 1 TRAVEL THROUGH F ANCE AND ITALY . 5

for a l warning Lerici , Leghorn , Nice, Antibes , M rseil es , and every p art of the Riviera. fa The wind being still un vourable , though the weather

f a i was delight ul , we rowed along shore, p ss ng by several a of ca s s in es or pretty towns , villages , and vast number ,

a s of little white houses , sc ttered among wood olive trees that cover the hills ; and these are the h abitations of the velvet and damask weavers . Turning Capo Fino, we entered a.

of a bay , where stand the towns Porto Fino , Lavagn , and ’ our lod Sestri di Levante, at which last we took up nig ht s g a d s in . a g The house was toler ble , and we h no great rea on of a to complain the beds ; but the we ther being hot , there ff f was a very o ensive smell , which proceeded rom some skins of a dr on out - beasts new killed , that were spre d to y an house w h a . a as a butc er and in the y rd Our l ndlord , had very f w much the looks of an assassin . His wi e as a great mas all of f the culine virago , who had the air having requented

- f slaughter house . Instead o being welcomed with looks of

m of con complaisance, we were ad itted with a sort gloomy ’ e descension , which seemed to say , we don t much lik ’ ou your company ; but, however, y shall have a night s

f of tr n o the on dola our lodging in avour the p a o f g , who is ’ c . had m a quaintance In short , we a very bad supper , iser a ably dressed , passed very disagreeable night , and paid a

a very extrav gant bill in the morning , without being thank f ed for our custom . I was very glad to get out o the house

a with my thro t uncut . Sestri di Levante is a little town pleasantly situated on

- f se a o . . the side , but has not the conveniency a harbour The

fish taken here is mostly carried to Genoa . This is like for oil maca r on i wise the market their , and the paste called , of which they make a good quantity .

da n of Next y we skirted a very barre coast , consisting

a fa of c almost perpendicul r rocks , on the ces whi h , however, ” sa w for we many peasants houses and hanging terraces vines ,

a f f e n o a . In m de by dint incredible l bour the a ternoon , we tered ba or f of S e tia by the Porto di Venere into the y gul p , or Lun of s . Spezza, which was the Portus m the ancient 452 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D I TALY .

of This bay , at the mouth which lies the island Palmaria ,

f and a h orms a most noble secure h rbour, capacious enoug on to contain all the n avies in Christendom . The entrance one side is defended by a small fort built above the town of a e Porto Venere, which is a very poor place . F rther in ther

f on a is a battery o about twenty guns ; and the right h nd ,

O - f on pposite to Porto Venere , is a block house , ounded a

of ba of rock in the s ea . At the bottom the y is the town S etia on f on a of f p the le t , and the right th t Lerici , de ended The by a castle of very little strength or consequence . whole bay is surrounded with plantations of olives and f a a . e oranges , and makes a very delight ul appear nce In c s f for h o a war, this would be an admirable station a Britis

h as squadron , as it lies so near Genoa and Leghorn , and a of i double entrance , by means which the cruisers could sa l out in and continually , which way soever the wind might f v chance to sit . I am sure the ortifications would gi e very

little disturbance .

At the post - house in Lerici th e accommodation is into

. f lerable We were almost poisoned at supper . I ound the

and place where I was to lie so close confined , that I could

n ot f la breathe in it , and there ore y all night in an outward f for room upon our chairs , with a leathern portmanteau my '

e . pillow . For this entertainment I paid very near a loui dor

a a a f w Such bad ccommod tion is the less excus ble , as the ello

of a f has a great deal business , this being a gre t thorough are

for a or f . travellers going into It ly , returning rom thence I might have saved some money by prosecuting my e we voyag directly by sea to Leghorn , but by this time were all heartily tired of the water : the business then was of to travel by land to Florence by the way Pisa , which is f seven posts distant rom Lerici . Those who have not their own f carriage, must either hire chaises to per orm the whole

or a w a of ca mbia tur a of journey , tr vel by y , which is that a ch nging the chaises every post , as the custom is in Eng

In a f land . this c se the great inconvenience arises rom your

being obliged to shift your baggage every post . The chaise Or ca les se of this country is a wretched machine with two

454: S N A N D TRAVEL THROUGH FRA CE ITALY .

T LE TER XXVII .

DE A R SIR N i ce Ja nua r , , y 2 8, 1 765 .

I SA old v is a fine city , that strikes you with the same e neration f of h you would eel at sight an ancient temple, whic bears the marks of decay without being absolutely dilapidat ed . The houses are well built ; the streets open , straight, and well paved ; the shops well furnished ; and the markets

. a well supplied There are some elegant p laces , particularly

of duke with a of that the grand , a m rble statue Ferdinand . f I I I . be ore it . The churches are built with taste, and toler

f a f f f - ably ornamented . There is a beauti ul wh r o ree stone on of each side the river Arno , which runs through the city, of h and three bridges thrown over it , whic that in the middle of of : e is marble, a pretty piece architecture but the numb r of inhabitants is very inconsiderable ; and this very circum it of far f stance gives an air majestic solitude, which is rom being unpleasant to a man of a contemplative turn of mind . For of u com my part , I cannot bear the tumult a pop lous mercial city ; and the solitude th at reigns in Pisa would be a strong motive to choose it as a place of residence . Not that this would be the only inducement for living at Pisa .

a fe w of Here is some good comp ny , and even a men taste in l and learning . The people genera are counted sociable r of and polite ; and the e is great plenty provisions , at a very f f reasonable rate . At some distance rom the more requented

of a for parts the city , a man may hire large house thirty a crowns a year but ne r the centre , you cannot have good lodgings ready furnished for less than a s cudo (about five

- shillings) a day . The air in summer is reckoned unwhole some by the exhalations arising from stagnant water in the n of of eighbourhood the city , which stands in the midst a f l a low : n erti e pl in , and marshy yet these marshes have bee considerably drained by the new canal extending from hence for . for to Leghorn As the Arno , it is no longer navigable Of h vessels of any burden . The university Pisa is very muc decayed ; and except the little business occasioned by the ’ w of emperor s galleys, hich are built in this town , I know 455 T RAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE AND I TALY. nocommerce it carries on : perhaps the inhabitants live on of of the produce the country , which consists corn , wine , for an d cattle . They are supplied with excellent water, b c of drinking , y an aquedu t consisting above five thousand arches, begun by Cosmo, and finished by Ferdinand I , grand dukes of Tuscany : it conveys the water from the

a of . mountains at the dist nce five miles This noble city,

a of i f formerly the capit l a flour shing and power ul republic, w hich contained above one hundred and fifty thousand in habitants within its walls, is now so desolate , that grass grows in the ope n streets ; and the number of its people do not ex ceed sixteen thousand . not or You need doubt but I visited the Campanile, hang

e f of r h ing tower, which is a b auti ul cylinder eight sto ies , eac

of one . adorned with a round columns , rising above another

e far on one It stands by the cath dral , and inclines so side i f d ro in l f m rom the perpendicular, that in pp g a p ummet ro

one - f the top , which is hundred and eighty eight eet high , f f f m it alls sixteen eet ro the base . For my part, I should never have dream ed that this inclination proceeded from any other cause than an accidental subsidence of the foundation on if not this side , some connoisseurs had taken great pains

- b to prove it was done on purpose y the architect . Any person who has eyes may see that the pillars on that side are considerably sunk ; and this is the case with the very th res of ou hold the door by which y enter. I think it would have been a very preposterous ambition in the architects, to shew h ow far they could deviate from the perpendicular i n this ma construction ; because in that particular, any common

‘ s on could have rivalled them ; and if they really intended of it as a specimen their art , they should have shortened on n the pilasters that side , so as to exhibit them e tire, with out of are the appearance sinking . These leaning towers not f one un requent in Italy ; there is at Bologna , another

a f at Venice , a third betwixt Venice and Ferrara , and ourth at Ravenna ; and the inclination i n all of them has been supposed owing to th e foundations giving way on one side only . 456 S O R TRAVEL THR UGH F ANCE AND ITALY.

a In the cathedral , which is a large Gothic pile, there is a of a of a gre t number massy pill rs porphyry, granite, j sper,

and verde antico , together with some good pictures and sta a of a tues but the greatest curiosity is th t the brass g tes, de

of signed and executed by John Bologna, representing, em ff of Old bossed in di erent compartments , the history the and

New Testament . I was so charmed with this work that I w l In c ould have stood a ho e day to examine and a dmire it . the f Baptisterium , which stands opposite to this ront , there f m f an d are some beauti ul arbles , particularly the ont , a pulpit supported by the statues of different animals .

l on e Between the cathedral and this bui ding, about hun d on on e f u red paces side , is the amous burying gro nd , called Ca m o S a n ta f m t p , ro its being covered with earth brough f m . a ro Jerusalem It is an oblong square, surrounded by

w u . n e very high wall , and al ays kept sh t Withi side ther is a spacious corridor round the whole space, which is a n oble walk for a contemplative philosopher. It is paved chiefly with flat grave- stones : the walls are painted in fresco Giottino f B ennotti Buffalmaco by Ghiotto , , Ste ano, , , and s ome others of his contemporaries and disciples who flourished immediately after the restoration of painting . The subjects

are f . taken rom the Bible Though the manner is dry , the w l co dra ing incorrect , the design genera ly lame, and the louring unnatural ; yet there is merit in the expression : and the whole remains as a curious monument of the efforts made by this noble art immediately after her revival . Here are some deceptions in perspective equally ingenious and pleasing ; u of particularly the fig res certain animals, which exhibit ex actly the same appear ance from wh atever different points of

of - view they are seen . One division the burying ground of c a consists a parti ular compost , which in nine d ys con s umes the dead bodies to the bones : in all probability it is

no other than common earth mixed with quick lime . A t one of of corner the corridor, there are the pictures three bodies represented in the three different stages of putrefaction w hich they undergo when laid in this composition . At the end of the h ee d t r first ays, the body is bloated and swelled,

S A N D 458 T RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE ITALY .

of f on the side it , rom whence the blocks are conveyed in

a bo ts , when there is water enough in the river to float them ,

a f or of th t is , a ter heavy rains, the melting the snow upon

s of of A ennines f m the mountain Umbria , being part the pp , ro whence it takes its rise . all Florence is a noble city , that still retains the marks of

a a f a m jestic capital , such as piazzas , pal ces , ountains , bridges,

a . not statues, and rcades I need tell you that the churches here are magnificent , and adorned not only with pillars of i a or ental granite, porphyry , j sper, verde antico , and other precious stones ; but also with capital piece s of painting by

. of how . the most eminent masters Several these churches, f for of ever, stand without ronts , want money to complete ma a the plans . I t y also ppear superfluous to mention my

a f l of h ving viewed the amous ga lery antiquities , the chapel t f of S . z o th e ba Loren o , the palace Pitti , the cathedral , p ' tis terium P n te dc Tr in zta trium , the o , with its statues , the

hal arch p , and every thing which is commonly visited in this metropolis . But all these objects having been circumstan t iall d ff of l y described by twenty i erent authors travels , I shal t l a of no troub e you with repetition trite Observations . Th at part of the city which stands on each side of the

r a a f river makes a ve y elegant ppear nce , to which the our bridges and the stone quay between them contribute in a h i i i’ . t e V n n s an great measure I lodged at Widow , Eng f a lish house, delight ully situ ted in this quarter . The land f a of f lady , who is hersel native England , we ound very

- r f and en obliging . The lodging ooms are com ortable ; the

te rtainment is good an d reasonable . There is a considerable

of f of number ashionable people at Florence, and many them ff . a d in good circumstances They a ect a g iety in their ress ,

a on equip ge, and conversation ; but stand very much their t punctilio with strangers and will not , without grea reluct

a an of ance , admit into their ssemblies y lady another coun

try whose noblesse is not ascertained by a title . This reserve is in some measure excusable among a people who are ex

tremel a of f i n y ignor nt oreign customs , and who know that own their country , every person , even the most insignificant H RoUGH R TRAVEL S T F ANCE AND ITALY . 459

f or who has any pretensions to amily , either inherits , assumes ma h of r i nci e conic or r c es e. the title p p , v e of With all their pride, howe er, the nobl s Florence are

humble enough to enter into partnership with shopkeepers,

. fa and even to sell wine by retail It is an undoubted ct, or that in every palace great house in this city , there is a

l f an n ittle window ronting the street , provided with iro n of knocker , and over it ha gs an empty flask , by way sign f o . post . Thither you send your servant to buy a bottle wine

He knocks at the little wicket , which is Opened immediately by a domestic, who supplies him with what he wants , and f receives the money like the waiter o any other cabaret . It n ot d is pretty extraordinary , that it should be eemed a dis ara e ment f of or p g in a nobleman to sell hal a pound figs , a

m of or or for a of pal ribbon tape, to take money a fl sk sour wine ; and yet be counted infamous to match his daughter in the family of a person who has distinguished himself in one of f any the learned pro essions . u Though Florence be tolerably pop lous , there seems to be very little trade of any kind in it but the inhabitants flatter themselves with the prospect of reaping great advantage f of one of for rom the residence the archdukes , whose recep w f tion they are no repairing the palace o Pitti . I know not what the revenues of Tuscany may amount to since the suc of of cession the princes Lorrain ; but , under the late dukes of f a to two the Medici amily , they were s id produce mil of to lions crowns , equal five hundred thousand pounds

sterling . These arose from a very heavy tax upon land and of a t houses , the portions maidens , and suits law , besides f the duties upon tra fic, a severe gabelle upon the necessaries

of f a a li e , and a toll upon every e table entered into this c pi

. If tal we may believe Leti , the grand duke was then able of f f to raise and maintain an army orty thousand in antry , nd two a three thousand horse ; with twelve galleys , galle f if and o . asses , twenty ships war I question Tuscany can

one f of . maintain , at present , above hal such an armament ’ now of He that commands the emperor s navy , consisting a fe w f who r rigates, is an Englishman , called Acton , was he e 4 0 T S A N D 6 RAVEL THROUGH FRANCE ITALY.

’ tofore captain of a ship in our East - India company s ser v ice . He has lately embraced the catholic religion , and of bee n created admiral Tuscany . There is a tolerable opera in Florence for the entertain m of ent the best company , though they do not seem very

a attentive to the music . Italy is cert inly the native country of this art ; and yet I do not find the people in general , or either more musically inclined , better provided with ears of than their neighbours . Here is also a wretched troop c for bur eois of : omedians the g , and lower class people but w a of all a exhibi hat seems most to suit the t ste r nks , is the

f a roces tion o church pageantry . I had occasion to see p of in sion , where all the noblesse the city attended their

of coaches , which filled the whole length the great street

r of in called the Co s o. It was the anniversary a charitable s titution f of of in avour poor maidens, a certain number w of hom are portioned every year . About two hundred these virgins walked in procession , two and two together ,

- clothed in violet coloured wide gowns , with white veils on

a . their heads , and made a very cl ssical appearance They were preceded and followed by an irregular mob of penitents in sackcloth , with lighted tapers , and monks carrying cru cifixes : a , bawling and bellowing the litanies but the gre t

of v f object was a figure the irgin Mary , as big as the li e, s f ff tanding within a gilt rame, dressed in a gold stu , with a

of f f large hoop , a great quantity alse jewels , her ace painted

and f and patched , her hair rizzled and curled in the very of f extremity the ashion . Very little regard had been paid to the image of our S aviour on the cross ; but when his l ady mother appeared on the shoulders of three or four lusty f a f . ri rs , the whole populace ell upon their knees in the dirt This extraordinary veneration paid to the Virgin must have

a f been derived origin lly rom the French , who pique them ou selves their gallantry to the fair sex .

of i Amidst all the scenery the Roman cathol c religion , I of ff have never yet seen any the spectators a ected at heart , or th e of f di discover least signs anaticism . The very scipli n - ants, who scourge themselves in the holy week, are gener

469. T S T R T RAVE L HROUGH F ANCE AND I ALY.

a exposed to the intolerable c prices and dangerous resent . of ment an Italian Virago . I pretend not to judge of the a a f own if n tional ch racter rom my Observation ; but , the portraits drawn by Goldoni i n his comedies are taken from a a w n ture , I would not hesit te to pronounce the Italian o

a men the most haughty , insolent, c pricious , and revenge ful f e mal s on f f e the ace o the earth . Indeed their resent m ar e a a and ents so cruelly impl c ble , contain such a mix

of erfid ha ture p y , t t , in my Opinion , they are very unfit

for subjects comedy , whose province it is , rather to ridicule

m z folly th an to stig a ti e such atrocious vice .

f a of You have o ten he rd it said , that the purity the Itali an is to be found in the Li ng ua Tu s ca na and B occa

R ma n a . a of o Cert in it is , the pronunciation the Tuscans is disagreeably guttural : the letters 0 and g they pronounce an a of an l with asper tion , which hurts the ear Eng ishman ; f a o . x and is , I think , r ther rougher than that the in Spa f h d as i a his . nish . It sounds the speaker lost palate I real ly im agined the first man I heard speak in Pisa had met f i of wi th that mis ortune n the course his amours . One of the greatest curi osities you meet with in Italy is the improvisatre ; such is the name given to certain in divi

a s of du ls , who have the surpri ing talent reciting verses

on . C or v e s i extempore any subject you propose Mr , my

h as f a f e . landlord , a son , a r nciscan riar, who is a great g

Dius in this way . When the subject is given , his brother

r e tunes his violin to accompany him , and he begins to

a f l . he rse in recitative, with wonder u fluency and precision ’ l or Thus , he wil , at a minute s warning , recite two three t d a hundred verses , well turned , and well adap e , and gener l ly mingled with an elegant compliment to the company .

a f of of The It lians are so ond poetry , that many them have f a and the best part o Ariosto , T sso , Petrarch by heart and these are the great sources from which the improvis atori

r a w an d of o . d their rhymes , cadence , turns expressi n But, lest you should th ink there is neither rhy me nor reason in

a al protr cting this tedious epistle , I sh l conclude it with the

e ld of St e. burden my song, that I am always yours, TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY . 463

LETTER XXVIII .

AR SI R i F bruar DE , N ce, e y 5, 1 76 5.

Y OUR entertaining letter of the fifth of last month was a very charitable and a very agreeable donation ; but your sus l icion r . n p is g oundless I assure you , upon my ho our, have no sh are whatever in any of the disputes which agitate the public ; nor do I k now any thing of your political trans ac x i n on e of tions , e cept what I casually see your newspapers, with the perusal of which I am sometimes favoured by our ou consul at Ville Franche . Y insist upon my being more

a on particul r in my remarks what I saw at Florence , and I shall obey the injunction . The famous gallery which con

th e a of tains ntiquities , is the third story a noble stone edi

fi ce f of I f , built in the orm the Greek I , the upper part ront the and of ing river Arno , one the legs adjoining to the ducal

of are . palace, where the courts justice held As the house of Medici h ad for some centuries resided in the palace of

a of f f m Pitti , situ ted on the other side the river, a ull mile ro

a a a the n ew these tribun ls , the rchitect Vas ri , who planned

a or edifice , at the s me time contrived a corridor, covered

a f a a of a of p ssage , extending rom the p l ce Pitti , long one

of the bridges to the gallery curiosities , through which the a n grand duke p ssed unseen , whe he was disposed either to f or a amuse himsel with his antiquities , to ssist at his courts of judicature ; but there is nothing very extraordinary either f in the contrivance or execution o this corridor .

If extraor I resided in Florence , I would give something

dinar for i n y permission to walk every day the gallery ,

f L cae um of which I should much pre er to the y , the groves or Academus , any porch or philosophical alley in Athens

or . a in Rome Here , by viewing the statues and busts r nged

fa of on each side , I should become acquainted with the ces

a f of a ‘ all the remarkable personages , m le and emale, nti uit ff a q y, and even be able to trace their di erent ch racters f m ro the expression of their fea tures . This collection is a R a most excellent commentary upon the oman historians, p r 4 T S H R I 46 RAVEL THROUG F ANCE AND TALY.

l rl a on ~ ticu a y Suetonius and Dion C ssius . There was e cir u ms tance a v e of c th t struck me i n i wing the busts Caracalla ,

a a er both here and in the c pitol at Rome ; th t was , a c tain i n h ferocity the eyes , whic seemed to contradict the sweet f f a a ness o the other e tures , and rem rkably justified the epi a r a cu l a thet C y , by which he was distinguished by the n

cient inh abitants of North Britain . In the language of the

a ca r a cu l cr uel e e a s Highl nders y signifies y , we are given to

a of underst nd by the ingenious editor Fingal , who seems to

h ha a a a a n the t ink t t C r c ll is no other tha Celtic word , adapt a of ed to the pronunci tion the Romans ; but the truth is , Caracalla w as the n ame of a G aulish vestment which this

prince affected to wear ; and hence be derived that surname . The Car acuyl of the Britons is the same as the fmSBga of h as f the Greeks , which Homer so o ten applied to his scolding a for heroes . I like the B cchanalian , chiefly the fine drape a ry . The wind , occ sioned by her motion , seems to have s welled and r aised it from the parts of the body which it

i in e covers . There is another gay Bacchanal an the attitud

f a o d ncing , crowned with ivy , holding in her right hand a f f of a . o bunch gr pes , and in her le t the thyrsus The head the celebrated Flora is very beautiful : the group of Cupid me and Psyche , however, did not give all the pleasure I expected from it . Of all the marbles that appear in the open gallery , the following are those I most admire . Leda with the swan ;

for a f a as Jupiter, in this tr ns ormation , he has much the p n o pearance of a goose . I have t seen any thing tamer but the sculptor has admirably shewn his art in representing ’ a f Leda s h nd partly hid among the eathers , which are so Off f lightly touched , that the very shape o the fingers

. of seen underneath The statue a youth , supposed to be

a celebrat G nymede , is compared by the connoisseurs to the

far : ed Venus , and , as as I can judge , not without reason a a e it is , however, r ther gre able than striking , and will please w a connoisseur much more than a common spectator . I kno not whether it is my regard to the fa culty that enhances the

of zE s cula ius e ~ value the noted p , who appears with a ven r

w a . like ise attr cted by the Morpheus in touchstone, which is

th e a al described by Addison , who , by by , notwithst nding l

a h as e a of his t ste , be n convicted by Bi nchi several gross blunders in his a ccount of this gallery . fa a m With respect to the mous Venus Ponti , com only

a tle Medicis w as f a t and in c lled , which ound Tivoli , is kept a a a Tr ibu n a t a sep r te partment called the , I believe I ough to Si or a t a a a be entirely lent , le st conce l my re l sentiments , which will otherwise appear equally absurd and pre s umptu ous . It must he wa nt of taste th a t prevents my feeling that enthusiastic admiration w ith which others are inspired at sight of this sta tue ; a statue which in reputation equal s

a of h th t Cupid by Praxiteles , whic brought such a con

of of the w of a c ourse strangers old to little to n Thespi e . I cannot help thinking that there is no beauty in the features of Venus an d that the attitude is awkward and out of chara c

. a ff ter It is a bad plea to urge , th t the ancients and we di er f f in the ideas o beauty . We know the contrary rom their

a a . med ls , busts , and histori ns Without all doubt the limbs an d of f a proportions this statue are elegantly ormed , and c curate l a of y designed , ccording to the nicest rules symmetry and proportion : and the back parts especially are executed

a as a a n of indiffer so h ppily , to excite the dmir tio the most cn t V spectator . One cannot help thinking it is the very enus of u id h G e s . H ercl by Praxiteles , whic Lucian describes e q uanta dorsi con cinnitas ut exuberantes lumbi amplexan tes manus implen t ! qua m s cite circumductae clunium pulpe i n s e r otundan tur i s is os s ibus ads trie tae , neque tenues nimis p , neque in imme nsam e ffusae pinguedinem That the statue Venue de Medicis thus described was not the , would appear from the Greek inscri ption on the base KAE OME NH E A H O A .

A O A nP or A O H N A IO E E H Q E Z EN Cleomen es li us A llo , fi po

' ' dor z eczt a j , did we not know th t this inscription is counted s of E H Q E Z E N purious , and that , instead , it should be

E H OIH EE . f as This , however, is but a rivolous objection , in we have seen many inscriptions undoubtedly antique , w f f m or hich the orthography is alse , either ro the ignorance

ca e essness of the s . ot r l culptor Others suppose, n without N E A D T TRAVELS THROUGH FRA C N I ALY . 467

a this s of f re a son, th t statue is a repre entation the amous

of at of Phryne , the courtezan Athens , who , the celebration

he a a f c out of h t Eleusini n g mes , exhibited hersel oming t e h of b t e e a . ath , naked , to ey s the whole Atheni n people I was much pleased with the dancing Faun ; and still better w or of are ith the Lotti , wrestlers , the attitudes which beau tifull d ff of y contrived , to shew the i erent turns the limbs, a nd the Swellin g of th e muscles : but what pleased me best

of a a w as all the st tues in the Tribun the Arrotino , common l th e y called Whetter, and generally supposed to represent of a f h a slave , who , in the act whetting kni e , overhears t e

o conspiracy of Ca tiline . Y u know he is repr esented on one

k an nee ; and certain it is, I never saw such expression of

a a s a o u e a anxious ttention appe rs in his c nt n nce . But it is n ot an a of mingled with y m rks surprise, such as could not fail to lay hold on a man who overhears by accident a con

a spiracy against the state . The m rquis de Maffei has justly a Observed , that S llust, in his very circumstantial detail of

of an that conspiracy , makes no mention y such discove ry . Neither does it appear that the figure is in the a ct of whet l one ting, the stone which he ho ds in hand being rough and

a e - unequal , no w ys res mbling a whet stone . Others allege,

f a of Scaevinus who it represents Milico , the reedm n , con

e f of r r spir d against the li e Ne o , and gave his ponia d to be s h whetted to Milico , who pre ented it to the emperor, wit an account of the conspira cy : but the attitude and expres s a of ion will by no me ns admit this interpretation . Signore

f an d Bianchi , who is himsel a learned judicious antiquarian ,

a Nav ius thinks the statue represents the ugur Attius , who c ut f a t of Tar uinius a stone with a kni e , the command q

' ri his on e ture P scus . T c jc seems to be confirmed by a m e d allion of Antoninus Pius , inserted by Vaillant among his

umismata P rae s tantiora d N , on which is elineated nearly such fo a figure as this in question , with the llowing legend , Attius Nav ius genuflexus ante T arquinium P ris cum cotem ’ c di i i sc d t . ultro He owns , indeed , that in the statue , the augur is not distinguished either by his habit or emblems

and he t ed n is . For migh have add , either the s tone a cotes 468 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE AND I TALY . m own a of ~ y p rt, I think neither these three opinions is satis

f . a actory , though the last is very ingenious Perh ps the figure alludes to a private incident which never was record

a of in e d in any history . Am ong the gre t number pictures

a this Tribun , I was most charmed with th e Venus by Titian , w hich has a sweetness of expression and tenderness of colour k i ng not to be described . In this apartment they rec on e th e thr e hundred pieces , the greatest part by best masters ,

a a a in he p rticul rly by R phael , the three manners by which for distinguished himself at different periods of his life . As

h a a of t e celebr ted st tue the hermaphrodite, which we find

for ip enuit in another room , I give the sculptor credit his g y i n mingling the sexes in the composition ; but it is at best n o a other th n a monster in nature , which I never had any pleasure in viewing : nor indeed do I think there was much t alent required in representing a figure with the head and

a of a of bre sts a woman , and all the other p rts the body

f of m as culine . There is such a pro usion curiosities in this

a a s celebrated museum , st tues , busts , pictures , med ls , table

of a a inlaid in the way marquetry , c binets dorned with pre

of m a cions stones, jewels all sorts , athematic l instruments ,

n a a a a n a cient rms , and milit ry m chines , th t the imaginatio is bewildered and a stranger of a vision ary turn would be a t f f a of f p to ancy himsel in a p lace the airies , raised and

of adorned by the power enchantment .

one of a a m In the detached p rtments , I saw the antependiu t o f for fa f o S . . the altar, designed the mous chapel Lorenzo

t of a a I is a curious piece rchitecture , inl id with coloured

m a a s rble and precious stones , so to represent an infinite v f a al ariety o natural objects . I t is dorned with some cryst

a a of o . of pill rs , with capit ls beaten g ld The second story the building is occupied by a great number of artists em

of ployed in this very curious work marquetry , representing

fi ff of for gures with gems and di erent kinds coloured marble , f mes e o . ietr e c m s the use the emperor The Italians call it p o , a of w to fi ne erin of sort inlaying ith stones , analogous the g

ca . to to binets in wood It is peculiar Florence, and seems e t he 0 b still more curious than the Mosaic work, which R : m a r u o r f ans h ve b o ght t g eat per ecti on .

4 0 S 7 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

The court of the p al ace of Pitti is formed by three sides of an a a all eleg nt square , with arc des round , like the palace

of d a nd W Holyroodhouse at E inburgh ; the rustic ork , c w of an whi h constitutes the lo er part the building, gives it

of and air strength magnificence . In this court , there is a

f a f a fine ountain , in which the w ter trickles down rom bove ;

a a f and here is lso an dmirable antique statue o Hercules, A TEIII O ‘ O II T E P I N of . inscribed , the work Lysippus

a f a The ap rtments o this p lace are generally small , and

of d . a re many them ark Among the p intings , the most

m la a b arkable is the Madonna de Seggiol , y Raphael , count o f If ed ne o the best coloured pieces of tha t grea t master . I

f f a was allowed to find ault with the per orm nce , I should f pronounce it de ective in dignity an d sentiment . It is the

expres sion of a peasant ra ther than of the mother of God . She exhibits the fondness and j oy of a young woman towards

fir st- son t of h her born , without that rap ure admiration whic

fi in a we expect to nd the Virgin M ry , while she contem in f of own of plates, the ruit her womb, the Saviour man k it f ind . In other respects , is a fine igure , gay , agreeable,

' and even expressive of matern al tenderness ; and the ba mbzno

w a is extremely beautiful . There a s an English p inter em

ployed in copying this picture, and what he had done was a f e xecuted with gre t success . I am one o those who think

i t a very possible to imitate the best pieces in such a m nner, that even the connoisseurs shall n ot be able to distinguish f for . f d o a the original rom the copy A ter all , I not set up

and ma judge in these matters , very likely I y incur the ri dieule of the virtuosi for the remarks I h ave made : but I am used to speak my mind freely on all subjects th a t fall under the cognizance of my senses thoug h I must as freely own e d , there is something more than common sense r quire to discover and distinguish the more delica te beauties of

. f a ut painting I can sa ely say , however, th t , witho any

dau i am Szc. b ng at all, I very sincerely , yours , 4 1 TRAVEL S THROUGH FR AN CE AND ITALY . 7

T LE T E R XXIX .

R r 5 . DE A R SI , N ice, F ebrua y 2 0, 1 76

H N of lor en ce AVI G seen all the curiosities E , and hired a

o a n for at th e of g od tr velli g coach seven weeks , price seven

h a an d a a f zechins , something less t n three guineas h l , we

s e t out for of a la post Rome , by the way Sienn , where we y a the first night . The country through which we p ssed is f s a h a a a . O mount inous , but gree ble Sienna I can y not ing

f m m ow n i ff ro y observation , but that we were ind erently s an d f lodged in a house that tunk like a privy , ared wretch

a an d i e dly at supper . The city is l rge well built : the n a an d the habit nts pique themselves upon their politeness ,

of a . a a e purity their di lect Cert in it is , some str ngers resid in this place on purpose to learn the best pronunci ation of f . o the Italian tongue The Mosaic pavement their duomo,

or a s ‘ W cathedral , has been much admired ; ell as the history

of fE neas f . a on the Sylvius , a terwards Pope Pius I I , p inted i of a P e ru ino a walls the library , p rtly by Pietro g , and p rtly ’ i ha r by his pup l Rap el B U bino. n Next day at Buo Convento, where the emperor Henry

. w as o f a a a af VI I , pois ned by a ri r with the s cr mental w er , I f d ut re use to give money to the ostler , who , in revenge, p qw o young unbroken stone - horses in the traces next to the a f h ad e coach , which bec me so unruly , that , be ore we gon of an d in a quarter a mile , they the postillion were rolling

’ the dust . In this situation they made such efforts to dis en

and ha gage themselves , kicked with such violence , t t I ima gined the carri age and all our trunks would have been f . a o a beaten in pieces We le ped out the co ch , however,

h a a a a f wit out sust ining any person l d m ge , except the right ; nor was any hurt done to the vehicle . But the horses were

a m f terribly bruised , and l ost strangled be ore they could be

disengaged . Exaspera ted at the Vi llany of the ostler; I

a a of a resolved to m ke a compl int to the magistrate the pl ce ,

a fia l f i old r a e. a n who is c lled fi I ound him wr pped an , a a h a a greasy , r gged , great coat , sitting in wretc ed p rtment,

t a s or an d withou either gl s , paper , boards in the windows ; A ~ I 472 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE N D TA Ln .

w as of f u of . there no sort urniture but a co ple broken chairs ,

a . and and miserable truckle bed He looked pale , meagre ,

a a air of a f- h gg rd , and had more the a h l starved prisoner than f f a a . a h o a m gistr te Having he rd my complaint , he came ort

of wa or belfr e t into a kind out rd room y, and rung a grea

w . of h hell o n . t e with his hand In consequence this signal , and s was fi postm aster came up stairs, I uppose he the rst

’ for z z za le f r ca i man . n in the place, the gfi stood be o e him p

and a of hand , , with great m rks humble respect , repeated

h m an a u . a the complaint I ad m ade . This ss red m e with n air of a h a f d conscious import nce , t t he himsel had ordere

e to . the ostl r supply me with those very horses , which were the bes t in his st able ; and that the misfortune which hap to of f pened was owing the misconduct the ore postillion , who did not keep the fore horses to a proper speed propor

' '

. fi tion ed to the mettle of the other two . As he took the a air

had an , f . the upon himsel , and I perceived ascendancy over

ma . s f n . gistrate, I contented my el with saying, I was certai

h ad e on r the t wo horses b en put to the coach purpose , eithe

or f us e to hurt righten ; and that , since I could not hav f h justice here, I would make a ormal complaint to the Britis a to the minister at Floren ce . In p ssing through the street f n f coach , which was by this time ur ished with resh horses, ea I met the ostler, and would have caned him h rtily but , perceiving my intention , he took to his heels and vanished. O f e all the people I have ev r seen , the ostlers , postillions ,

f - a and other ellows hanging about the post houses in It ly, are the most greedy , impertinent , and provoking . Happy; are those travellers who h ave phlegm enough to disreg ard their insolence and importunity : for this is not so disagree able as their revenge is dangerous . , An English gentleman

a one of f had at Florence told me, th t those ellows whom he s for f truck his impertinence, flew at him with a long kni e, ” of m and he could hardly keep him at sword s point . All the n on wear such k ives, and are very apt to use them the slight f e st provocation . But their open attacks are not so ormi dable as their premeditated schemes of revenge ; in prosecua tion of which the Itali ans are equally treacherous and cruel

S O A N D T RAVEL THR UGH FRANCE ITALY.

der the dominio n of which no country was ever known to prosper . f Montefi as cone and one About hal way between Viterbo , f f w off a of our ore wheels le , together with a l rge splinter of the axle - tree a nd if one of the postillions had not by great

a a f o h accident been a rem rk ble ingenious ell w , we s ould have been a as h put to the gre test inconvenience, t ere was no town ,

or h a . even house, wit in sever l miles I mention this cir

ums tance wa of a c by y warning to other tr vellers , that they ma h a a a e y provide themselves wit a h mmer and n ils , a sp r

- or t wo f a of be iron pin , a large kni e , and bl dder grease , to f h f used occasion ally in case o suc mis ortune . The mountain Of Viterbo is covered w ith beautiful pl ant

tion s a a a and vill s belonging to the Rom n nobility , who ville i a r a f come hither to make the g tu in summer . O t he

of V s a a city iterbo , I shall y nothing, but that it is the c pital of that country which Mathilda gave to the Roman see . l f The place is wel built, adorned with public ountains , and a great number of churches and convents ; yet far from being b Of n populous , the whole num er inhabitants not exceedi g

fif - of teen thousand . The post house is one the worst inns I ever entered . f C minus of A ter having passed this mountain , the y the a of a a do ncients , we skirted part the l ke , which is now c lled ff t h e ro Vico, and whose banks a ord most agreeable rural p s ects of l a h d and p hil and vale, wood , gl de , and water, s a e

f w a a a s s unshine . A e other very inconsider ble pl ces we p s

e d a a i of i al , and descended into the C mp n a Rome , wh ch is

’ of h in i ts most a desert . The View t is country present situ

of a n ation , cannot but produce emotions pity and indign tio in the mind of every person who retains any idea of i ts an

c f . a ient cultivation and ertility It is nothing but a n ked,

d a d inclo withered down , esol te and reary , almost without

s d but or b ure, corn field , he ge, tree, shrub, house, , ha ita tion ; exhibiting here and there the ruins of an a ncient cas tellum of , tomb, or temple, and in some places the remains

. of and a Roman via I heard much these ancient works , e was greatly disappoint d when I saw them . The Via Cassia , 4 5 TRAVEL S TH ROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY. 7 or C mina is a h y , paved with bro d , solid , flint s tones , whic must have greatly incommoded the feet of horses th a t

a of the tr avelled upon i t , as well as end ngered the lives

f a it f o . riders , rom the slipperiness the p vement Besides ,

' a a o a a not a one is so n rrow , th t two m dern c rri ges could p ss

n o a of another upo it, without the m st imminent h zard being o am S of a nt verturned . I till opinion th t we excel the ancie

Rom ans in understanding the conveniencies of life .

a f of m ou The Grand tour s ys , that within our miles Ro e y s e e on to a of h a tomb the road side , said be th t Nero, wit

- s d . see culpture in basso relievo at both en s I did such a.

m a - O f an thing , more like a co mon gr ve stone than the tomb

o . fo the ead emper r But we are in rmed by Suetonius , that d of f the l of f d n body Nero , who slew himsel at vi la his ree ma , wa s of a , by the care his two nurses , and his concubine Att , r of Domitia emoved to the sepulchre the Gens , immediately n a on f hand as ou n er withi the Port del Popolo , the le t y e t r on now a r h Rome, p ecisely the spot where st nds the chu c f r o S . Ma ia del Popolo . His tomb was even di st inguished

has Groterus. ia by an epitaph , which been preserved by G coma Albe riei tells us very gravely in his History of the

of s who u e th church , that a great number devil , g ard d e

of o a bones this wicked emperor, to k possession , in the sh pe of s of - black raven , a walnut tree , which grew upon the spot fr m he a u o whence t y insulted every p ssenger , ntil Pope Pas c . o c of fa v a hal I I , in c nsequen e a solemn st and a re el tion , o a nd c ut went thither in pr cession with his court cardinals ,

the r to e of down t ee , burned it ashes , which , with the bon s

t T bur : Nero, were hrown into the y then he consecrated an

a a on aft a wa s i . lt r the place , where erw rds the church bu lt

Y ou w f of of may guess hat I elt at first sight the city Rome, which , notwithstanding all the calamities it has under

a e u r a a a . gone, still maint ins august and impe i l appe r nce It t on f of T bur s ands the arther side the y , which we crossed at

te f a e a o u two the Pon Molle , ormerly c lled Pons Milvin , b t m f a d w as iles rom the g te by which we entered . This bri ge

[E milius w a a . built by Censor, hose n me it origin lly bore

It was the road by which so many heroes returned with con . 476 S RO N A ND I TRAVEL TH UGH FRA CE TALY.

quest to their country ; by which so many kings were led captive to Rome ; and by which the ambassadors of so many

of kingdoms and states approached the seat empire , to de

a f or for the prec te the wrath , to solicit the riendship , sue of protection the Roman people . I t is likewise famous for

f d of Maxentius w as e the de eat and eath , who here overcom by Constantine the Great . The space between the bridge

on a n ow and Porta del Popolo , the right h nd , which is t u a of t aken p with gardens and villas , was p rt the ancien

Martin s : and e Campus , where the comitia were held wher the Roman people inured themselves to all m anner of e xer

: t cises it was adorned wi h porticos , temples , theatres , baths ,

l a-3 columes . A u circi , basi ic , obelisks , , statues , and groves thors differ in their Opinions about the extent of it ; but as all a they agree that it cont ined the pantheon , the circus now z n bustum m agonis , the pia za avona , the , and mausoleu u r of u A gusti , g eat part the modern city must be built pon f the ancient C ampus Martius . The highway that leads rom the of h bridge to the city , is part the Via Flaminia , whic e d far a n xtende as as Rimini ; and is well p ved , like a moder of s treet . Nothing the ancient bridge remains but the piles ; nor of or of r is there any thing in the structure this , the othe

T bur . five Roman bridges over the y , that deserves attention I have not seen any bridge in France or Italy comparable to t of or s o hat Westminster, either in beauty , magnificence , lidit : fr a fi it y and when the bridge at Black i rs is nished , will be such a monument Of architecture as all the world for T bur h cannot parallel . As the y , it is , in comparison wit f l the Thames , no more than an inconsiderable stream , ou ,

dee p, and rapid ; navigable by small boats, barks , and for of lighters ; and , the conveniency loading and unload new ing them , there is a handsome quay by the custom h t on h ouse, at the Porto di Ripetta , provided wi h stairs eac s and f u s ide, adorned with an elegant o ntain , that yield of abundance excellent water .

We are told that the bed of this river has been consider.» ably raised by the rubbish of old Rome : and this is the rea son usu ally given for its being so apt to overflow its banks .

4 S T N A N D 78 T RAVEL H ROUGH FRA CE ITALY.

f Fl a w The Porto del Popolo ( ormerly amini ) , by which e e an a of ntered Rome, is eleg nt piece architecture , adorned

colume s s and af with marble and statue , executed ter the de ou s ign O f Buon aroti . Within side y find yourself in a no a f of f ble piazz , rom whence three the principal streets o

Rom e are detached . It is adorned with the famdus Egyptian o f m ax belisk , brought hither ro the Circus M imus , and set u ana ontifi eate of p by the architect Dominico Font , in the p r f f Sixtus V . He e is likewise a beauti ul ountain designed by the same artist ; and at the beginning of the two principal f s are a a . treets two very eleg nt churches ronting e ch other Such an august entrance cannot fail to impress the stranger f with a sublime idea o this venerable city . i our am a t e th Hav ng given n es the gat , we repaired to e d or - our a e ogana , custom house , where trunks and c rriag were searched ; and here we were surrounded by a number of a a ff n v h servitori de pi zz , o eri g their ser ices wit the most h disagreeable importunity . Thoug I told them several times

ha d for of took of I no occasion any , three them possession on e u f of the coach , mo nting be ore and two them behind ;

' and d a a d E s a n a thus we procee ed to the Pi zz p g , where the person lived to whose house I was directed . Strangers tha t come u to Rome seldom put p at public inns , but go directly to h of lodging ouses , which there is great plenty in this ’ a d E s a na a i q uarter . The Piazz p g is Open , ry , and plea s antly situated i n a high p art of the city i mmedi ately under h Olla a a d f t e C . Pinci n , and a orned with two fine ountains Here m ost of the English reside the apartments are gener a lly commodious and well furnished ; an d the lodgers are

w a e of f . ell supplied with provisions and all necess ri s li e But , if a of I studied economy , I would choose nother part the ” town th an the Piazza d E spagn a which is besides at a great d a f ist nce rom the antiquities . For a decent first floor and two bed - c a on n o h mbers the second , I paid more than a s o f cud (five shillings) per day . Our table was plenti ully fu a for - an d- rnished by the l ndlord two thirty pauls , being e al l - e qu to sixteen shil ings . I hired a town coach at the rat cf f r or n s l n - a s v e ou teen pauls, seve hil i g s a d y ; and a er itor T RAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY . 479

a for . «ii piazz three pauls , or eighteen pence The coach

of r man has a lso an allowance two pauls a day . The p o

‘ v at are reasonable and the isions Rome good , especially

a vitella mong na , which is the most delicate veal I ever t bu t d a b for asted , very e r , eing sold two pauls , or a shilling,

are of the pound . Here the rich wines Montepulciano ,

f a o a nd di a com Monte i sc ne , Monte Dragone ; but wh t we u a of a e m o ly drink at meals is th t Orvieto , a sm ll white win

o f a a . are to an agree ble fl vour . Strangers generally advised e mploy an antiquarian to instruct them in all the curiosities o f h a n Rome ; and t is is a necess ry expense , when a perso to b a wants ecome a connoisseur in painting, st tuary , and

own a architecture . For my p rt , I had no such ambition . I longed to vie w the rem ains of antiquity by which this me tropolis is distinguished ; an d to contemplate the origin als of a many pictures and st tues , which I had admired in prints, f . e and descriptions I there ore chos a servant , who was re f c ommended to me as a sober intelligent ellow , acquainted with these m a tters : at the s ame time I furnished myself with

and of and maps plans ancient modern Rome , together with

Iti ner a r io is tr ultw o er r etr ova ir the little manual , called , p c ” con a cilita tutte le ma n i cenz c di R ma 3 di a lk un e cilia f g fi o ,

’ a f l f e cas telli s ubur b m . But I ound stil more satis action in

R ma a perusing the book i n three volumes , entitled , o Antic e llI/ oder n a a of r e , which contains description every thing markable in and about the city , illustrated with a great of a and number copperpl tes , many curious historical anno i t at ons . This directory cost me a zechin ; but a hundred zechins will not purchase all the books and prints which have been published at Rome on these subjects . O f these the t of most celebra ed are the plates Piranesi , who is not

a and a only an ingenious rchitect engraver , but also a le rned a a t in ntiquarian , though he is p to run riot his conjectures ; of and with regard to the arts ancient Rome , has broached

fi nd ff a ‘ some doctrines , which he will it very di icult to m in om do tain . Our young gentlemen who go to R e will well t o be upon their guard against a set of sharpers (some of of our wn s them o country) , who deal in picture and antiques, t V S 480 TRA E L THROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY . and very often impose upon the uninformed stranger by sell

i in hi m as d on of — g tr h , as the pro ucti s the most celebrated art

a i s ts . The English are more th n any other foreigners ex e p os ed to t his impositi on . They are supposed to have mor money to throw away ; and therefore a greater number of

a for of s nares are l id them . This opinion their superior

a a ou t wealth they t ke pride in confirming , by launching into all manner of unnecessary expense ; but what is still more d a f a ngerous, the moment they set oot in It ly , they are seized w a of a ith the mbition becoming connoisseurs in p inting,

a a a n d a r of music, st tu ry , rchitecture ; and the adventure s t his country do not fail to fl atter this weakness for their own

a a . i f of a a dvant ge I have seen in d f erent parts It ly , num

of raw b m u f h ber oys , who Britain seemed to have po red ort o n purpose to bring her national ch aracter into contempt ; i s r ofii ate gnorant , petulant , ra h , and p g , without any know

ed Of e own an o i l ge th ir , without y direct r to mprove their

u ta or u . s nders nding, s perintend their conduct One engage i n fa o e and play with an in m us gamest r , is stripped , perhaps, in the very first party ; another is poxed and pillaged by an antiquated cantatrice ; a third is bubbled by a knavish antiquarian ; and a fourth is laid under contribution by a

fi ddl r d t . e s ealer in pic ures Some turn , and pretend to com

s : all of fa l of n po e but them talk mi iarly the arts , and retur

finished connoisse urs and coxcombs to their own country . The most rem arkable phenomenon of this kind which I have s of - a h een , is a boy seventy two , now actu lly travelling throug

for of Italy , improvement , under the auspices another boy

f - ou e o . o u twenty two When y arrive at Rome, y receiv c ards from all your country - folks in that city : they expect to a da e h ve the visit returned next y, wh n they give orders not to be at home ; and you never speak to one another in t h e sequel . This is a refinement in hospitality and polite n ess which the English have invented by the strength of their own a f genius, without any ssistance either rom France, Italy, or N of i r Lapland . o Englishm an above the degree a pa nte or cicerone frequents any coffeehouse at Rome ; and as there are o no public diversions except in carnival time, the nly

82 R S 4 T AVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

s d of of u i er that the city and suburbs Rome, in the reign Cla

(l a a of ha a a ius , cont ined bout seven millions in bit nts , number e qual at least to the sum total of all the souls in England ;

a a of a th t great p rt ancient Rome was llotted to temples , por

basili cm a ae and e ticos , , the tres , therm , circi , public privat

a n fe w if of t walks and g rde s , where very , any , this grea n umber lodged ; that by far the greater part of those inha~ bitan ts were slaves and poor people, who did not enjoy the con veniences of life ; and that the use of linen was scarce known ; we must n aturally conclude they were strangely h a crowded toget er , and that in gener l they were a very f w h a ro zy genera tion . That t ey were crowded together p a f of pe rs rom the height their houses , which the poet Ruti

a for s ealin a lius compa red to towers m de g he ven . In order to c ae a remedy this inconvenien e, Augustus C sar , published

d a for fu u e ecree , th t , the ture , no houses sho ld be built abov

s f a t eventy eet high , which a moderate computation , might ma all ke six stories . But what seems to prove beyond dis

t h e n ar e e pute that ancie t Romans were dirty creatures , thes two particul ars : Vespa si an laid a tax upon urine and or

on of t the dure , pretence being a a great expense in clearing s treets from such n uisances ; an imposition which a mounted

to about fourteen pence a - year for every individual ; and when Heliogabalus ordered all the cobwebs of the city and s h f uburbs to be collected , t ey were ound to weigh ten thou s a a a of th e nd pounds . This was intended as demonstr tion grea t number of inhabitants : but it was a proof of their dirt

of o ulos it rather than their p p y . I might likewise add the ’ of a h delicate custom t king vomits at each ot er s houses,

w or —that hen they were invited to dinner supper, they might prepar e their stomach for gormandizmg ; a beastly proof of as des cri their nastiness well as gluttony . Horace, in his p of a of N asie denus tion the b nquet . says , when the canopy u f as nder which they sat ell down , it brought along with it much dirt as is raised by a hard gale of wind in dry wea th er

trah entia ulveri p s atri , ’ uan um non ui o Cam an at a Q t Aq l p is excit gris . T RAVEL S THROU GH F RANC E AND I TALY . 483

I might observe th a t the streets w ere often encumbered with

f a a of d the putri ying c rc ses criminals , who had been ragged a f S ca le: through them by the heels , and precipit ted rom the

' Gemomw or a b f o , Tarpei n rock , e ore they were thrown int the T bur w as a t e of cloaca y , which the gener l recep acl the ma xi ma and all t of : of , the fil h Rome besides , the bodies all thos e who made a way with themselves withou t su fficient

of w d for or cause, such as ere con emned sacrilege , killed by t f b e hunder, were le t un urned and unburied, to rot abov g round . I be lieve the modem s retai n more of the customs of the a n t ncient Romans than is generally im agined . Whe I firs s aw f en a n s tr u és r d the in ants at the f o v in Pa is, so swathe

W n h of s ith ba dages, t at the very sight them made my eye w m of n e s ater, I little drea ed that the prescription the a ci nt c for ah ould be pleaded this custom , equally shocking and s but in the a i the i e urd ; c p tol at Rome , I met with ant qu s of h emailloté a tatue a c ild , ex ctly in the same manner, roll e d u i an f f n p l ke Egyptian mummy rom the eet . The cire la of the c on the tion blood , in such a ase, must be obstructed w u f of n the hole s r ace the body , and nothi g at liberty but

of h be head , which is the only part the c ild that ought to o confined . Is it not surprising that common sense should n t d point out , even to the most ignorant , that those accurse bandages must heat the tender infan t into a fever ; must hin of of s o der the action the muscles , and the play the joints , necessary to health and nutrition ; and tha t while the re

fl b bs u run on s ur uent lood is O tr cted in the veins , which the f of a h the ace the body , the rteries , whic lie deep, without r o f o al s each compressi n , are continu ly pouring their content a h b h a ? into the he d, w ere the lood meets wit no resist nce

e of b lax s u The vess ls the rain are naturally , and the very

f ar tures o the skull are yet unclosed . What e the couse uen es of ? the q c this cruel swaddling The limbs are wasted , w n o joints gro ricketty , the brai is compressed , and a hydr

c u . ephal s , with a great head and sore eyes, ensues I take this abominable practice to be one great caus e of the handy T S N A N RAVEL THROUGH FRA CE D ITALY.

a nd a f th e legs , diminutive bodies , l rge heads , so requent in

of a nd s outh France in Italy . I w as no less surprised to find th e modern fashion of curl i n a a a f th e g the h ir, borrowed in a gre t me sure rom coxcombs

d f 1 aw a f an coquettes o antiquity . s bust o Nero in the

a t a t of gallery Florence, the h ir represen ed in rows buckles ,

a of a a f the like th t French petit m itre , con ormable to pic ture drawn of him by Suetonius : Ci r ca cultum a deo p uden

dum ut coma m s em er i n r a dus or ma ta m er e r i na tion e , p g f p g

’ ' h z i a m ane ti cr zfzcem s um s er i A c a ca et t. , p p I was very sorry, w h f h ha a f . o ever , to find t t t is oppery c me rom Greece As for O a alericulum or a of n tho , he wore g , tour, on ccount thi

a r r r a r i a m a il r um o te t te c lo . h h ir , p p p He had no rig t to imi t a a of Cze s ar a ba te the ex mple Julius , who conce led his ld

a c h ead with a wrea th of laurel . But there is bust in the a

of a P ia f of Se timius h pitol Juli , the second wi e p Severus , wit

a a fa a moveable peruke, dressed ex ctly in the shion ble mode,

w ff a h a of - i t f zz ith this di erence , th t t ere is no p rt ri led ; nor is

there any appeara nce of pom atum and powder. These im provemen ts the be an monde h ave borrowed from the natives

f. o the Cape of Good Hope . Modern Rome does not cover more than on e third of the s pace within the walls ; and those p arts th a t were most fre

q uen ted of old are now entirely abandoned . From the Ca th e a nd pitol to the Coliseum , including Forum Romanum B oarium one or t wo , there is nothing entire but churches, f fi built with the fragmen ts o ancient edi ces . You descend from the capitol between the rem aining pillars of two tem

a and a of af in ples , the pedest ls p rt the sh ts sunk the rubbish

then passing through the triumph al arch of Septimius Seve . rus f of a a h , you proceed along the oot Mons P l tinus , whic

s a ui h of tands on your right h nd , q te covered wit the ruins

i n at the ancient palace belong ng to the Roma emperors , and th e foot of it there are some beautiful detached pillars still o Tem lum s tand i ng . O n the left you see the remains f the p

' ams a ma . P , which seems to h ve been the largest and most g e t f It w as a n d di nifi c n o all the temples in Rome . built d e g cated the by the emperor Vespasian, who brought into it all

I TRAVEL S TH ROUGH FRANCE A ND TALY .

‘ of u f a a a ia blage seless estoons , pill rs , pil sters , with their rch

a a t traves , ent blatures , and I know not what , th t nothing grea or uniform rem ains to fill the view ; and we in vain look for

Of a of that simplicity grandeur , those larg e m sses light and

' sh a B I ETN OH TON c dow , and the inexpressible , which chara

terize of a . a e the edifices the ncients A gre t edifice, to hav fu l ffe t o is oZé a is a f all its l e ct , ought be , th t , det ched rom

a : of others , with a large space round it but the palaces

of the r of Rome, and indeed all othe cities Italy which I

a s have seen , are so engaged among other me n house , that their beauty an d m agnificence are in a great me asure con

l fa n are cea ed . Even those which ce ope streets and piazzas ' l r in f are a only c ea ront . The other apartments d rkened by

th e of a h a re vicinity ordin ry houses , and t eir views confined e by dirty and disagreeable objects . Within the court ther i s n all n generally a oble colonnade rou d , and an open corri d r are o above ; but the stairs usually narrow , steep , and h a of - th e u of s mali igh . The w nt sash windows , d lness their

glass lozenges , the dusty brick floors , and the crimson hang i o a air r ngs laced with g ld , contribute to give gloomy to thei of ie apartments . I might add to these causes a number p e a e tures execut d on mel ncholy subjects , antique mutilat d

- i u s tatues , busts , basso rel evos , rns , and sepulchral stones , w ith which their rooms are adorned . I t must be owned,

ar e a e. however, there some exceptions to this gener l rul

a of a a a The vill Cardin l Alex nder Alb ni is light , gay , and et o too l a airy ; y the ro ms are smal , and too much decor ted in of with carv g and gilding, which is a kind gingerbread of one of h are work . The apartments the princes Borg ese

furnished in the English taste and in the p a la z z o di colo nna onn es tabile i s or a for c there a saloon g llery , which the pro f n portions , lights, urniture , and or aments , is the most noble,

e . legant , and agreeable apartment I ever saw I t is diverting to hear an Italian expatiate upon the great

are v ness of modern Rome . He will tell you there abo e three hundred palaces in the city ; that there is s carce a Roman prince whose revenue does n ot excee d two hundred thou sand crowns ; and that Rome produces not only the most TRAVELS TH ROUGH F RANC E AND I TALY.

a a learned men , but lso the most refined politici ns in the uni

of verse . To one them talking in this strain , I replied , that ,

of a a th e x d instead three hundred p l ces , number did not e cee

h ad f a t fourscore ; that I been in ormed , on good uthori y , there were not six individuals in Rome who h ad so much

f a - a a ds as orty thous a nd crowns year, bout ten thous nd poun h sterling ; and that to say t eir princes were so rich , and

wa s ff v n their politicians so refined , in e ect a se ere satire upo

for a t for them , not employing their wealth and their t len s a th e advantage of their country . I asked why their c rdi n als and princes did not invite and encourage industr i ous

an d a a a of h people to settle cultivate the C mp ni Rome, whic i s a desert ? Why they did not raise a subscription to drain

of a n d u the marshes in the neighbourhood the city , th s me liorate e in the air , which is rendered extrem ly unwholesome ? th e me f sum r , by putrid exhalations rom those morasses I of demanded them why they did not contribute their wealth , and m exert their political refinements , in aug enting their f for f Of in orces by sea and land the de ence their country , tro ducin c fa e g ommerce and manu ctures , and in giving som c in onsequence to their state , which was no more than a mite the political scale of Europe ? I expressed a desire to know e a of of t e what b c me all those sums money , inasmuch as her

a of and in o an d was hardly any circul tion gold silver R me, on a e the very bankers , whom str ngers have their credit , mak ’ interest to pay their trade smen s bills with p aper notes of the of ? now am c i bank Spirito Santo And I upon this subje t , t ma b y not be amiss to observe , that I was strangely misled y f n all the books I consulted about the current coin o Italy . I

l one but Tuscany , and the Ecc esiastical state , sees nothing

in of one lf zechins gold , and pieces two paoli , paolo, and ha

. at a paolo , in silver Besides these, there is a copper coin R ome b h . Te n a occ i , called bajocco , and mezzo bajocco j ” an s i make a scudo , which is imagin ary piece ; two cud ’ make a zechin ; and a French loui dore is worth about two zechins . f w ho Rome has nothing to ear from the catholic powers , r espect it with a superstitious veneration as the metropoli 488 . RA VE Ls R A N D T TH OUGH FRANCE ITALY.

tan seat of their religion : but the popes will do well to a d a n a s void misun erst ndi gs with the m ritime prote tant states ,

a th e wh o a of Mediter especi lly English , being m sters the r anea n an d of M a , in possession inorca , h ve it in their power at all times to land a body of troops within four leagues of

a C . is Rome, and to t ke the ity without opposition Rome

old a a a of surrounded with an wall , but ltogether inc p ble

v f or if w as the circuit of a de ence ; , it , the w lls is so exten

a of n sive, th t it would require a garrison twe ty thousand

n a a of a f a C men . The o ly appe r nce ortific tion in this ity is t a of S . n f a of the the c stle A gelo , situated on the urther b nk

T bur t o a an m d : y , which there is access by h dso e bri ge but a f moles Adr ia n i this c stle , which was ormerly the , could

n ot out a f a - da a a of hold h l y, ag inst a b ttery ten pieces of wa an d f cannon properly directed . It s expe ient le t to the

i nve n tion ‘ of a a the modern Rom ns , to convert an ncient l s tomb into a citadel . It cou d only serve a a temporary re t for of on reat the pope in times popular commotion , and other sudden emergencies ; as it happened in the case of

of Pope Clement VII . , when the troops the emperor took the city by assault ; and this only while he resided a t the

a f w a e Vatic n , rom hence there is a covered g llery continu d

a : e a to the c stle it can never serv this purpose ag in , while ff on Monte o the ponti lives Cavall , which is at the other end ‘ of . of . ridicu the city The castle S Angelo , howsoever

a s f a lous a ortress , ppears respectable as a noble monument

of low u on antiquity , and though standing in a sit ation , is e of the first objects that strike the eye of a stranger ap of proaching Rome . On the opposite side the river are the a of u wretched rem ins the Mausoleum A gusti , which was

s . of till more magnificent Part the wall is standing , and

the terraces are converted into garden ground . In viewing ’ t u a f hese r ins , I remembered Virgil s p thetic description o w ho Marcellus, was here entombed

Q uantos ille virfim m agnum Mavortis ad urbem C am us a et emitus v el ues T berrne v rdebis p g g , q , y ,

Funera cum tumulum raet rlabere recentem. , p e

‘ n la n ad Li iam The beautiful poem of Ovid de Co so zio e v ,

4 0 S H N E 9 TRAVEL THROUG FRA C AND ITALY . peets to see a number of groves and glades intermixed with

t o ff of an agreeable negligence , which seems be the e ect na

for ture and a ccident . He looks shady walks encrusted with gravel ; for open lawns covered with verdure as smooth as

a : for velvet , but much more lively and agree ble ponds ,

a a a of canals , b sons , c scades , and running stre ms water ; for of and clumps trees , woods , wildernesses , cut into de

i f f - an d - l ght ul alleys , per umed with honey suckle sweet briar , and resounding with the mingled melody of all the singi ng birds of heaven : he looks for plats of flowers in different

f fa for a parts to re resh the sense, and please the ncy rbours, a him grottos , hermit ges , temples , and alcoves , to shelter f aff a of e a and rom the sun , and ord him me ns cont mpl tion r s and epose ; and he expects to find the hedge , groves , w l a an d a ks , and l wns , kept with the utmost order proprie

of ty . He who loves the beauties simple nature , and the of for a charms neatness , will seek them in v in amidst the

f a a of I a . o groves t ly In the garden the Villa Pinci n , there is a of f or h h plantation our hundred pines , rather firs , w ic the Italians view with r apture an d admiration : there is like. wise a long walk of trees exte nding from the garden gate to

a of a d in the pal ce ; and plenty shade , with lleys and he ges different parts of the ground : but the groves are neglected ;

a the walks are laid with nothing but common mould or s nd,

ar e a black and dusty ; the hedges tall , thin , and sh bby ;

an d a the trees stunted the open ground , brown p rched , has The fl t a a scarce any appearance of verdure . a regul r lleys of evergreens are cut into fant astic figures ; the flower- gar dens embe llished with thin cypress and flourished figures in

of a and box , while the flowers grow in rows e rthen pots ; the ground appears as dusky as if it was covered with the ’ of a f a of e cinders a bl cksmith s orge . The w ter, which ther

of a is great plenty , instead being collected in l rge pieces , or i n a f conveyed little rivulets and stre ms , to re resh the

or a f a is thirsty soil , man ged so as to orm greeable cascades ,

f m f of squirted ro ountains in different parts the garden ,

- It t hrough tubes little bigger than common glyster pipes . f a i must be owned , indeed , that the ountains h ve the r merit v a Ls RO A N D Ta A TH UGH FRANCE ITALY. 49 1

' in the way of sculpture and architecture ; and that here is a great number of statues which merit attention ; but they

o d ff t s erve nly to encumber the ground , and estroy that e ec of rural simplicity which our gardens are designed to pro

s ee a of duce . In a word , here we a v riety walks and groves, f a of f and ountains , wood our hundred pines , a paddock

fe w d - a d a with a meagre deer, a ower g r en , an aviary,

fis h- o of ar ticu grotto , and a p nd ; and in spite all these p n lars , it is , in my opinion , a very contemptible garde , of or when compared to that Stowe in Buckinghamshire, f e ven to those o Kensington and Richmond . The Ita lians s of but understand , because they study , the excellencie art ;

of of they have no idea the beauties nature . This Villa f Pinciana , which belong s to the Borghese amily, would

te for an d es e make a comple academy painting sculpture, p i ll for of for of c a y the study ancient marbles ; , exclusive n the statues and busts in the garden , and the vast collectio ff of the in the di erent apartments , almost the whole outside house is covered with curious pieces in basso and alto re li vo of on c e . The most masterly is that Curtius horseba k , lf or of a leaping into the gu opening the earth , which is s id ex to have closed on receiving this sacrifice . Among the hibitions of art h within the house, I was much struck wit

s of - ou an a Bacchu , and the death Meleager, represented f ancient s epulchre. There is also an admirable statue o f Silenus , with the in ant Bacchus in his arms ; a most beauti l d u of t fiI gla iator ; a c rious Moor black marble, with a shir of white alabaster a finely proportioned hull of black mar s o of i se ble al o , standing up n a table alabaster ; a black g p y,

f of the fa with a head , hands , and eet brass ; and mous her

ma hrodite a of the p , which vies with th t Florence ; though of most curious circumstance this article , is the mattress , ex e cuted d and place by Bernini , with such art and dexterity , t to of of o to hat the view it rivals the s tness w ol , and seems

n of a of retai the marks pressure , ccording to the figure the

s . for r uperincumbent statue Let us likewise own , the honou

of m h a fi ne the m ode s , t at the same rtist has produced two

s of l tatues , which we find among the ornamen ts this vi la, n a D w n i e of row amely , avid ith his sli g, n the attitud th 4 2 T S R N A N D 9 RAVEL THROUGH F A CE ITALY .

ing th e stone at the giant Goli ath ; and a D aphne chang a a a of h ing into laurel t the ppro ch Apollo . On t e base of f n this figure , are the two ollowing elegant lines , writte

by Pope Urban VI II . in his younger years

uis uis amans s e uitur fu itiva audia form ae Q q q g g ,

ronde manus im le t baccas ve l car i t a maras . F p , p

f of I ought not to orget two exquisite antique statues Venus ,

n the m out of his the weeping slave , and the youth pulli g a

foot . I do not pretend to give a methodical detail of the curiosi ties of Rome they h a ve been already described by different

a a a m for the authors , who were much better qu lified th n I task : but you sh all have what observations I m ade on the

a a as oc most rem rk ble Objects , without method , just they cur to my remem brance ; and I protest the rem arks a re all

a if an a m my own so th t they deserve ycommendation , I cl i an d if con all the merit ; they are impertinent, I must be ll tented to bear a the blame . ‘ ‘ ’ he iazza of . c T p S Peter s hurch is altogether sublim e . The double colonnade on ea ch side extending in a s emrcrr cular w ZE tian two s eep , the stupendous gyp Obelisk; the f i a a fa ade of the ounta ns , the portico , and the dmir ble g

f a o nfi as church , orm such an assembl ge f mag i cent objects , cannot fail to impress the mind with a we and adm i ration

y ' a still fgafer eff but the church would h ve produced a g ect, had it been detached entirely from the buildings of the Va ti

- f . It a o can would then h ve been a master piece architecture,

“ f : a t complete in all its parts , entire and per ect whereas , a f to present, it is no more th n a beauti ul member attached

a vast undigested and ir regular pile of building . As to the

of fa h architecture this mous temple , I s all say nothing ; neither do I pretend to describe th e internal ornaments . ‘ ’ of a of . s The great picture Mosaic work , and th t S Peter

a of bark tossed by the tempest , which appe r over the gate

a the church , though rude in comp rison with modern pieces,

a h a s the are nevertheless gre t curiosities , w en considered

of th e of the work Giotto, who flourished in beginning

f . w as a a e ourteenth century His master Cim bue , who le rn d e painting and architecture of the Grecian artists, who cam

4 S RO R C I 49 TRAVEL TH UGH F AN E AND TALY .

e of e b en lavished upon it , is no more than a heap pu rile fi r e ne y , better adapted to an Indian pagod , than to a templ of The built upon the principles the Greek architecture . four colossal figures that support the chair are both clumsy

and . O f in disproportioned The drapery statues , whether

a or a s br ss stone, when thrown into l rge masses , appear hard and unpleasant to the eye ; and for that reason the ah

ients a a c alw ys imit ted wet linen , which , exhibiting the

a of a a . sh pe the limbs underne th , and hanging in multipli

of wet f of f city olds , gives an air lightness, so tness , and ductility to the whole .

These two statues weigh pounds , and as they s a h but a are out of ust in not ing a ch ir, all proportion , inas much a s the supporters ought to be suitable to the things

ar e f ain t old s upported . Here our g s holding up the wood e n a of if ma v b ch ir the apostle Peter , we y belie e the ook f i :De Iden tita te Ca thedr ce R oma n ce . The implements o pop sh s of a uperstition , such as relics pretended s ints , ill propor tioned belfre s a of the spires and y , and the n useous repetition

of f a n figure the cross , which is in itsel very mea and dis a e for of cri gr eable Object , only fit the prisons condemned m a e a a in in l , h ve contributed to introduce vicious taste

n a or to the exter l architecture , as well as in the internal , n aments of our temples . All churches are built in the

O f ff f m figu re a cross , which e ectually prevents the eye ro

of or taking in the scope the building, either without side w ithin ; consequently robs the edifice of its proper effect . The pal ace of the Escurial in Spain is laid out in the shape

of a in e a gridiron , bec use the convent was built consequenc ‘ of . a to l a. a vow to S L urence, who was broiled death ike f . o barbecued pig What pity it is , that the labours paint ing should h ave been so much employed on the shocking s of ubjects the martyrology . Besides numberless pictures of fla ellation f m the g , crucifixion , and descent ro the cross, d of f h we have Ju ith with the head Holo ernes , Herodias wit of in the head John the Baptist, Jael assassinating Sisera

on a h his sleep , Peter writhing the cross , Stephen b ttered wit s f of f i u tones, Sebastian stuck ull arrows, L aurence ry ng p T RAVEL S THROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY . 49 5

a o n the coals , Bartholomew fl yed alive, and a hundred other

a f f fill pictures equ lly right ul , which can only serve to the d a of s min with gloomy ideas , and encour ge a spirit religiou f a t h an icism , whic has always been attended with mischievous consequences to the community where it reigned .

. of a of f The tribune the gre t altar, consisting our wreathed

a o a brass pill rs , gilt , supp rting a c nopy, is doubtless very ma if a gnificent , not overch rged with sculpture, fluting, f a f of and h oli ge , estoons , and figures boys angels , whic , w the an d t - a of a ith hundred twen y two l mps silver, continu l l a da y burning below, serve r ther to zzle the eyes , and kindle the of a a ad devotion the ignor nt vulg r, than to excite the mir ation of a judicious Observer . n fa s o There is othing, I believe, in this mous structure,

of a worthy appl use, as the admirable symmetry and propor

f a o . t ion its parts Notwithst nding all the carving , gilding,

- a ie basso relievos , medallions , urns , st tues , columns , and p not on a t ures with which it abounds, it does , the whole , p

- . r t pear over crowded with ornaments When you fi st en er,

a your eye is filled so equally and regularly , that nothing p pears stupendous ; and the church seems considera bly small

f a it . a o t er than really is The st tues children , th t suppor the f of f m onts holy water , when observed rom the door, see to of a a z as a be the n tur l si e ; but you draw ne r , you perceive h a f he t . t e O t hey are gigantic In s me manner , the figures d a h are r e re oves , with olive br nches in their beaks , whic p on a a s sented the w ll . appear to be within your reach ; but you approach them , they recede to a considerable height , as if h h ad a t ey flown upwards to void being taken .

a at of I was much dis ppointed sight the pantheon , which af of ter all that has been said it , looks like a huge cockpit , open at top . The portico , which Agrippa added to the

d i n e i building , is un oubtedly very noble , though , my p

ill of . nion , it corresponds but with the simplicity the edifice

for a in With all my veneration the ncients , I cannot see of what the beauty the rotunda consists . It is no more than a or plain unpierced cylinder, circular wall , with two fillets and a n a f or in cor ice, having Vaulted roo cupola , open 4 6 R S 9 T AVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

. a b r the centre I me n the original uilding, without conside

in of g the vestibule Agrippa . Within side it has much the f a a w o . as air m usoleum I t this appearance which , in all

b h fa to a pro ability suggested the thoug t to Boni ce IV . tr n

s - and - of old port hither eight twenty cart loads rotten bones,

du f ff t- - a g rom di eren burying pl ces , and then dedicate it as l a church to the blessed Virgin and all the ho y m artyrs . I am not one of those who think it is well lighted by th e hole

a t a - - f i diame ter the top , which is bout nine and twenty eet n ,

although the author of the Gra nd tour calls it but nine .

a a a of to The s me uthor s ys , there is a descent eleven steps

ha a e a nd f - f f go into it ; t t it is hundr d orty our eet in height,

a nd a s a h w as many in bre dt ; that it covered with copper,

w i a a of a . h ch , with the br ss n ils the portico, Pope Urb n VIII a t f took way , and conver ed into the our wreathed pillars that support the canopy of the high altar in the church of t S . f of Peter , The truth is , be ore the time Pope Alex

a . a as a of nder VII , the e rth was so raised to cover p rt the

w as of the temple, and there a descent some steps into porch : but that pontiff ordered the ground to be pared a w a or a of ay to the very pedest l b se the portico , which is n ow a even with the street, so th t there is no descent what

s . a and a oever The height is two hundred p lmi , the bre dth

h h a two hundred and eighteen ; w ic , reckoning the palmi t n h f ine inches , will bring the eight to one hundred and fi ty ,

and the breadth to one hundred and sixty - three feet six

an of inches . It was not y covering copper which Pope

d a a Urban VIII . remove , but l rge br ss beams , which sup

ported the roof of the portico . They weighed

ff d a u for a pounds ; and a or ed met l eno gh , not only the pill rs t ’ f f S . or o a . in Peter s church , but also several pieces rtillery

VVhat a of is more extraordin ry , the gilding those columns is said to h ave cost forty thousand golden crowns ; sure money was never worse laid out. Urban VIII . likewise a dde d two belfry towers to the rotunda ; and I wonder he o a w a did not c ver the centr l hole ith gl ss , as it must be very inconvenient and disagreeable to those who go to church in w e t h below, to be exposed to the rain weather, whic

4 8 S O 9 TRAVEL THR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

Verona is one thousand two hundred and ninety feet in cir cumfer n e ce ; and th at of Nismes on e thousand and eighty . colossae um who The was built by Vespasian , employed thirty thousand Jewish sl aves in the work ; but finished and dedi

cated son on . da of e by his Titus , who , the first y its b ing f Opened , produced fi ty thousand wild beasts , which were

all killed in the aren a . The Romans were undoubtedly a

i . barbarous people, who d elighted n horrible spectacles They viewed with pleasure the dead bodies of criminals ae Ge dragged through the streets , or thrown down the Scal oniae and m T arpeian rock for their contemplation . Their rostra were generally adorned with the heads of some remark

i z - a o . ble c ti ens , like Temple bar at Lond n They even bore ’ the sight of Tully s head fixed upon that very rostrum where he had so often ravished their ears with all the charms of

a of eloquence, in ple ding the cause innocence and public

f - s virtue . They took delight in seeing their ellow creature i torn In p eces by wild beasts in the amphitheatre . They shouted with applause when they saw a poor dwarf or slave killed by his adversary ; but their transports were, altogether extravagant , when the devoted captives were obliged to fight

on . in troops , till e side was entirely butchered by the other f of Nero produced our hundred senators , and six hundred the a : equestrian order, as gladiators in the public rena even the

f as women ought with wild beasts , as well with each other, and

w a drenched the amphitheatres ith their blood . T citus says ,

' S cd ccmzn a r u m illus tr i um s cn a tor um ue lior um lums f , g fi p i ’ f per a r en a m f orda i s un t. The execrable custom o sacri fi cing captives or slaves at the tombs of their masters and a the of gre t men , which is still preserved among negroes f a a m A ric , obtained lso a ong the ancients , Greeks as well as

a . Rom ns I could never, without horror and indignation ,

a a - of re d th t passage in the twenty third book the Iliad, which

a a a a describes twelve v li nt Troj n c ptives , sacrificed by the

of f . inhuman Achilles, at the tomb his riend Patroclus ' ' ' 3 A ddams usv T ai wv as a du wv vsoc 56 37x25 { g ( y a ; ; ’ T oct a ’ or r wii éc h r ag / o wa ms; g fil s .

e It is not at all clear to me, that a people is the more brav , 4 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN CE AND ITALY . 9 9

the more they are accustomed to bloodshed i n their public

a a h uma . e ntertainments . True bravery is not s v ge, but ne Some of this sanguin ary spirit is inherited by the inhabitants — of a a m for . a certain island th t sh ll be na eless but, mum that

Y ou will naturally suppose that the ColiSeo was ruined by .

f : in ff the barbarians who sacked the city o Rome e ect, they robbed it of its ornaments and valuable materi als ; but it was reserved for the Goths and Vandals of modern R ome to

d a ism ntle the edifice , and reduce it to its present ruinous

O ne a of . condition . p rt it was demolished by Pope Paul II that he might employ the stones of it in building the pala ce ‘ w s f fo of S . Mark . It a a terwards dilapidated r the same

s Riarius an d a purpose by the cardinals F rnese, which last

n h of Notwith assum ed the tiara u der t e name P aul I II . to standing these injuries, there is enough standing convey

of a very sublime idea ancient magnificence . if l The circi and naumachia, considered as bui dings and

‘ a a if are as ih artificial b sons , are admir ble ; but examined as

for and a for tended horse chariot races , and artificial se s ex hibi tin m ah g naval engagements , they see to prove that the cient Romans were but indifferently skilled and exercised i or either n horsemanship naval armaments . The inclosure ’ Of a al a e the emperor C rac l s circus is still standing , and scarc

- f affords brea thing room or an English hunter . The Circus M far the i n so aximus , by largest Rome , was not long as t ’ f S . the Mall ; and I will venture to a firm , that James s Park would m ake a much more ample and convenient scene for those diversions . I imagine an old Roman would be very much surprised to see an English race on the course at N e w market . The Circus Maximus was but three hundred y ards

of in breadth . A good part this was taken up by the spina, or a h middle sp ce, adorned wit temples , statues, and two the or great Obelisks ; as well as by euripus , canal , made by

of a c he order Julius C esar, to ontain crocodiles , and ot r a quatic animals , which were killed occasionally . This was

a so large, th t Heliogabalus , having filled it with excellent

for a wine , exhibited naval engagements in it, the musement of r of the people . I t su rounded three sides the square, so k 0 ' 3 0 TRAVEL S TH ROU GH FRANC E AND ITALY. that the whole extent of the race did not much exceed an English mile ; an d when Probus was at th e expense of fill

a of fi r - f a for ing the pl in it with trees , to orm wood the chase of if f e wild beasts , I question much this orest was mor t ’ S . a on extensive than the plantation in J mes s park , the south side of the canal : now I leave you to judge what ridi of t cule a king England would incur, by converting this par of the park into a chase for any species of animals which are counted game in our country . The Roman emperors seemed more disposed to elevate and surprise , than to conduct the public diversions according

f n o . O e to the rules reason and propriety would imagine,

or it was with this view they instituted their naumachia ,

f f a naval engagements , per ormed by hal a dozen small g lley s f i f f o n a o . a side an artificial b son resh water These galleys ,

for I suppose, were not so large as common fishing smacks , f of ac they were moved by two , three , and our oars a side,

iff an d ‘ cording to their d erent rates , biremes , triremes , quad riremes . I know this is a knotty poin t n ot yet determined ; and that some antiquarians believe the Roman galleys had ‘ difi er en t tires or decks of cars ; but this is a notion very ill

of t supported , and quite contrary to all the figures them tha

bn . in are preserved ancient coins and medals Suetonius , of of the reign Domitian , speaking these naumachia, says ,

' ' E didzt n a va les u n a s en e usta r um cZas s zum e b ss o et p g , p j , fi

‘ ’ ir cumducto ubta T ber zm la cu a t ue i nter ma x ima s i m~ c j y , g ’ a vi a br as p r osp ect t. This artificial l ake was not larger th n c of a the pie e water in Hyde park ; and yet the histori n says , or H w it was almost large enough for real entire fleets . o of would it sound in the ears a British sailor , an advertise

‘ ‘ ment that a m ock engagement bet ween two squadrons of men of war would be e xhibited on such a day in the Serpentine river ? or th at the ships of the line taken from the enemy would be carried in procession from Hyde park corner to

wen wh arf ? u ul one of To Certain it is , L c lus , in his tri ‘ n and of na ves k m as umphs , had one hu dred ten ships war ( g ) f carried through the streets o Rome . Nothing can give a of i more contemptible idea their naval power, than this test

S 502 TRAVEL THR OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

f f : i l hs and o ten per umed they l kewise indu ged in vapour bat ,

n n a s in order to e joy a pleasi g rel xation , which they likewi e f improved with odori erous ointments . The therm ae consisted of a great v ariety of parts and conveniencies the n atatione s or

s a wimming places ; the portici , where people mused themselves i n w a lking , conversing, and disputing together, as Cicero

I n or ticibus dea mbula n tes dis uta ba n t a says , p p the basilic e, f f where the bathers assembled , be ore they entered, and a ter

out of a or they came the b th the atria, ample courts , adorned with noble colonn ades of Numidian marble and ori

e hibia ental granite ; the p , where the young men inured f themselves to wrestling and other exercises ; the rigidaria , or of places kept cool by a constant draught air, promoted by the disposi tion and number of the windows ; the calida

a for h ria, where the w ter was warmed the bat s ; the platano

or fu of a for nes , delight l groves syc more ; the stadia, f of athle tm a or the per ormances the ; the exedr e, resting a s i for the pl ce , provided w th seats those that were weary ;

a a a p lestr e , where every one chose that exercise which ple sed

him best ; the gymnasia, where poets, orators , and philo for sophers , recited their works, and harangued diversion ; eleotesia f the , where the ragrant oils and ointments were kept for of conis teria the use the bathers ; and the , where the w f Of restlers were smeared with sand be ore they engaged . a the therm e in Rome, some were mercenary , and some open

ed gratis . Marcus Agrippa , when he was edile, opened one hundred and seventy private baths for the use of the peo

. In ple the public baths where money was taken , each per s on of our f paid a quadrans, about the value hal penny , as J uvenal observes

Caedere Sylvano porcum quadrante lavari .

f of But, a ter the hour bathing was past, it sometimes cost a r g eat deal more, according to Martial ,

Ba nea os decimam asso centutn ue etuntur l p t , l q p Q uadrantes Though there was no distinction in the places between the

first patrician and the lowest plebeian , yet the nobility used TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE A N DITALY. 3

wn for s their o silver and gold plate, wa hing, eating , and

w of . drinking, in the bath , together with to els the finest linen . of u They likewise made use the instr ment called strigil , which was a kind of fles h brush ; a custom to which Persius - s allude in this line,

I uer et s r i i es Cris ini ad ba nea defer. p , t g l p l

The common people contented themselves with sponges . f The bathing time was rom noon till the evening, w hen the n Romans ate their principal meal . Notice was give by a

or bell, some such instrument, when the baths were opened, f uv enal as we learn rom J ,

R edde P i am s onat E s th ermarum ludere er is l , , p g ? um Virgine vis sola lotus abire dom .

for two There were separate places the sexes ; and indeed, for of there were baths opened the use women only , at the of of t expense Agrippina , the mother Nero , and some o her of matrons of the first quality . The use bathing was become of in so habitual to the constitutions the Romans , that Galen , o De S a ni ta te Wan da his b ok , mentions a certain philosopher, if one who, he intermitted but day in his bathing, was cer tainly attacked with a fever . In order to preserve decorum of in the baths, a set laws and regulations were published , mae ut of and the ther were p under the inspection a censor, ne of who was generally o the first senators in Rome . A

f a grippa le t his g rdens and baths , which s tood near the Pan

: theon , to the Roman people among the statues that adorn of n ed them was that a youth aked , as going into the bath ,

f of i so elegantly ormed by the hand Lys ppus , that Tiberius, Of f being struck with the beauty it , ordered it to be trans er red into his own palace ; but the populace raised such a f clamour against him , that he was ain to have it reconveyed to its former place . These noble baths were restored by

S artian of Adrian , as we read in p ; but at present no part them remains .

Of old With respect to the present state the aqueducts , I f can give you very little satis action . I only saw the ruins of that which conveyed the Aqua Claudia near the Porta of Maggiore, and the Piazza the Lateran . You know there 504~ S O TRAVEL THR UGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

f of a of were ourteen those ancient queducts , some which a f brought w ter to Rome rom the distance of forty miles . The channels of them were large enough to admit a man armed on horseback ; and therefore when Rome was besieged

had off f by the Goths , who cut the water, Belisarius orti fi e d f them with works, to prevent the enemy rom entering f a . e the city by those convey nces A ter that period, I suppos

dr ff the ancient aqueducts continued y, and were su ered to all run to ruins . Without doubt , the Romans were greatly

fa obliged to those bene ctors, who raised such stupendous

for as of works the benefit , well as the embellishment , their city ; but it might have been supplied w ith the same water through pipes at on ehundredth part of the expense ; and in that case the enemy would n ot have found it such an easy v matter to cut it off. Those popes who have pro ided the f h modern city so plenti ully with excellent water, are muc to be commended for the care and expense they have be

Vir in e stowed in restoring the streams called Aqua g , Aqua F ff of elici , and Aqua Paolina , which a ord such abundance water as would plentifully supply a much larger city than modern Rome .

- in- f . i It is no wonder that M Agr ppa, the son law, riend , f of e and avourite, Augustus, should at the same time hav of n been the idol the people , considering how surprisi gly

f for he exerted himsel the emolument, convenience, and

f l w . i who pleasure o his fel o eit zens . It was he first con ducted this Aqua Virgine to Rome : he formed seven hundred reservoirs in this city ; erected on e hundred and

f u one ca s tella five o ntains ; hundred and thirty , or conduits , which works he adorned with three hundred statues , and f f l of a o one . our hundred pil ars marble , in the sp ce year a a He lso brought into Rome , the Aqu Julia, and restored

of A a fa a . the aqueduct the qu Marzia , which had llen to dec y I have already observed the great number of baths which he for m a opened the people, and the agnificent therm e , with

a spacious gardens , which he bequeathed to them as a leg cy .

fa and munifi cen t a s But these bene ctions , great they seem to he not m f for , were . the most i portant services he per ormed

506 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY.

m m . who erected this noble onument to her me ory . It con of two of sisted orders or stories , the first which was a square of hewn stone ; the second was a circular tower, having a

- ox m. cornice, adorned with heads in basso relievo , a circu f m of Ca di B n stance ro which it takes the name p o o e. The

ox f was supposed to be a most grate ul sacrifice to the gods . of a hin c victimae Pliny , speaking bulls and oxen , s ys , op

' im a i t az et la uda tzs s ima deor um p lac t o. This tower was sur m mounted by a noble cupola or do e , enriched with all the of ornaments of architecture . The door the building was of brass and withinside the ashes of Cecilia were deposited in u of h a fl ted marble urn , curious workmanship , whic is still

in fa of kept the Palazzo Farnese . At present the sur ce the ground is raised so much as to cover the first order of the edifice what we see is no more than the round tower , with out the dome and its ornaments and the following i nscrip to f tion still remains near the p, acing the Via Appia

C E C I L I AZ

Q o C R E T YC I F .

M E TE LL JE

C RA S S I .

N ow a of we are t lking sepulchral Inscriptions, I shall of l conclude this letter with the copy a very singular wil ,

J ocundus who in a made by Favonius , died Portug l , by which will the precise situation of the famous temple of syl vann s is ascertained .

’

J ocundi .

' ’ ’ ' l . ui bel ntr a rza Eg o Gallus Facomas J oczmdus P Fa ooni F. g e co Vz

’ m u undum et rudentem zlios 6 me et uintia Fa bia t u s ccubui J oc P j , Q

con u a mea or tos et bonor um J ocundi a tris ei et eor um um j g , p m , g

' ‘ mifii e si a c uis ivi lzazredes r elin uo Iza c ta men conditione ut a b p q , q ,

’ ur be R ma na bus Denia nt at ossa hic mea i ntm uin uenmum ex o , g g

arte nt et via La tina conda nt in se ulcbr o a ss u meo condito et p , p j ,

mea volunta te in uo velzm nemine m mecum ne ue s erva nt ne ue ; g , q q liber ta m i n ser i et elim ossa um umcun ue se ulcbro sta tim meo , v g g p

e r ua ntur et um R om nor um sert i eni ur in se ulchris ritu mq or um , j a , p j

r ti ne nd ux a t s s e us ecer int nisi le e is . j t volunta tem testatoris c i c f

' itimae or ia ntur Ca use celim ea omnia uce liis mels r elén uo g , , g fi g ,

ro r e arando tem lo dei S lva ni u s ub Viminali p p p y , q od monte est, 50 TRAVEL S THR OUGH FR A NCE AND ITALY . 7

m x. a am n s dialibus ui n a ttribui manesghe mei a p ant. a fl i ibu q i ’ itolio s ant o em im lorent ad liberorum meor um zm zeta tem Cap , p p , p ' l n a r bam ulciscenda m ; teneanturgue s acerdotes dei Sy va m . me i r er r e ct se ulchro me meo condere . Volo uo ue ver nas ui domi ef , p g g q mece aunt omn es a rwtore ur ba no liberos cum ma tribus dimitti , p , ;

' in ulzs ue Zibra m a r enti uri et vestem up a m da ri . I n Lusita s g g g p ,

' ' ma i n a r o . kal. uintilzs beZlO Viria tino. g viii Q , ff My paper scarce a ords room to assure you that I am ever,

f f 8 m. dear sir, your aith ul,

LETTE R XXXIII .

DE AR SI R , N ice, M ar ch 2 9 , 1 765.

Y OU must not imagine I saw one half of the valuable pic tures and statues of Rome ; there is such a vast number of in r both this capital , that I might have spent a whole yea i of f e in taking even a transient V ew them and a ter all , som of them would have been overlooked . The most celebrated f pieces, however, I have seen ; and there ore my curiosity is if satisfied . Perhaps, I had the nice discernment and de licate of n sensibility a true co noisseur, this superficial glimpse n would have served only to whet my appetite , and to detai the me the whole winter at Rome . In my progress through of Vatican , I was much pleased with the School Athens , by ff f of Raphael , a piece which hath su ered rom the dampness f of a the air . The our boys attending to the demonstration mathematician are admirably varied in the expression . Mr ’ Webb s criticism on this artist is certainly just . He was perhaps the best ethic painter that ever the world produced . a No man ever expres sed the sentiments so happily in Vis ge,

: to h attitude, and gesture but he seems have had too muc off r or phlegm to strike the g and passions , reach the sublime f o . of parts painting He has the serenity Virgil , but wants o h the fire f Homer . There is nothing in his Parnassus whic ’ of struck me, but the ludicrous impropriety Apollo s play

for of . ing upon a fiddle , the entertainment the nine Muses

Buonaroti i n of The Last judgment , by , the chapel Sixtus

IV. to th e f f a , produced my eye same sort o con usion th t per of va plexes my ear at a grand concert, consisting a great I 508 TRAVEL S TH ROUGH FRANCE AND TALY .

i t of or of e r e y instruments , rather when a number peopl are of talking all at once . I was pleased with the strength ex pression exhibited in single figures and separate groupes ;

but the whole together is a mere mob , without subordina 1

or . a tion , keeping, repose A p inter ought to avoid all sub

ects of be j that require a multiplicity groupes and figures , cause it is not in the power of th a t art to unite a grea t num

er of a h in one point view, so as to maint in that dependence

which they ought to have upon one another . Michael A n in a of gelo , with all his skill an tomy , his correctness design , and f of his grand composition , his fire orce expression , seems

to have had very little idea of grace . One would imagine a he had chosen his kings , heroes , cardin ls, and prelates, from among the f a cchi n i of Rome ; that he really drew his Jesus on the cross from the agonies of some vulgar assassin expiring on the wheel ; and th at the originals of his Bam

a f bini , with their mothers , were liter lly ound in a stable . In

a f S s tian the Sala Regi , rom whence the y chapel is detach a n of re re ed , we see, mo g other exploits catholic heroes , a p s c a of a O f ut tion the m ssacre the protestants in Paris, Thou f ‘ a o on of . louse , and other p rts France , the eve S Bartbo

’ l m w d Di r i z z n di m o e s c o e R o a . , thus escribed in the Nella ’ l is toria prima pittura, esprime Georgio Vasari del Coligni , ” amira lio F a r ebelli grand g di rancia, che come c po de e degl ’ ’ fu uccifo l la fa Ugonotti , ; e nel a tra vicina , strange tta in ” ’ r b lli e e . Parigi , e nel regno , de , e degl Ugonotti In the of first picture, George Vasari represents the history Coligni ,

of a w as a n of high admiral Fr nce, who sl i as head the rebels

a nd hu onots a g ; and in nother near it , the slaughter that was made of the rebels and hugonots in Paris and other ’ a of f p rts the kingdom . Thus the court o Rome hath em

a a as a ployed their rtists to celebr te and perpetuate, merit

ori ous erfidious an d fa action , the most p , cruel , in mous mas

sacre th a t ever disgraced the annals of any n ation . I need not mention th e two eques trian statues of Constan

a a a t tine the Great and Ch rlem gne, which stand Opposite t ’ of hurch a of S . c ends the great portico Peter s , bec use there

i s nothing in them which particularly engaged my attention .

1 0 S T 5 TRAVEL HROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

of of a statue, which is called the School Michael Angelo,

h ad a nor I not time to consider it ttentively , taste enough to f perceive its beauties at first sight . The amous horses on ’ Mon te ' Cavallo f e are , be or the pope s palace , which said to ” and have been made in emulation by Phidias Praxiteles, I

a f of h ve seen , and likewise those in the ront the Capitol , with the statues of C astor and Pollux : but what pleased me infi

nite l of y more than all them together , is the equestrian statue of a in of a Corinthian br ss , standing the middle this pi zza (I

at a a mean the C pitol) , s id to represent the emperor Marcus

s h was for Aureliu . Ot ers suppose it intended Lucius Verus ; a third set of antiquaries contend for Lucius Septimius Se a f for verus ; and ourth Constantine, because it stood in the

of t f m piazza the Lateran palace, buil by that emperor , ro w hence Pope Paul I II . caused it to be removed to the C api of tol . I considered the trophy Marius as a very curious of at bot piece sculpture , and admired the two sphinxes the

t om of a a re the st irs le ding to this piazza, as the only good presentation Of life I had ever seen from E gypt ; for the two

of - floor of idols that country , which stand in the ground the of a museum the C pitol , and indeed all the Egyptian statues " a E tiaca of r i in the Camer gyp this ve y build ng, are such of monstrous misrepresentations nature, that they never could

a a m h ve obt ined a place a ong the statues at Rome, except as

of f or on of curiosities oreign superstition , account the ma

te rials of l or ori , as they are generally basa tes, porphyry ,

ental granite . f end of of musuem f At the urther the court this , ronting f a of the entrance , is a handsome ountain , with the st tue no a river god reclining on his urn . This is other than the

fa Marforio a f f i n mous , so c lled rom its having been ound

a a Martis Foro . I t is rem rk ble only as being the convey ance of the answers to the satires which are found p asted

upon Pasquin , another mutilated statue, standing at the

corner of a street . f The marble co fin , supposed to have contained the ashes

of one of a Alexander Severus, which we find in those part for ments, is a curious antique, valuable its sculpture in TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 51 1

bassw reliev o for on re re , especially the figures the cover, p

senting that emperor and his mother J ulia Mammea . I was sorry I h ad not time to consider the ancient plan of

on - of m Rome, disposed in six classes, the stair case this u

s eum ~ which f in , was brought hither rom a temple that stood

m Boariu m a . the Foru , now called Campo V ccino It would be ridiculous in me to enter into a detail of the

s n of - va t collectio marbles , basso relievos , inscriptions, urns,

nd a ar a th busts , a st tues , which e pl ced in e upper apartments

of . but this, edifice I saw them once, and then I was struck

with the following particul ars . A bacchanalian drunk ; a a a al a Jupiter and Leda, at le st equal to th t in the g lery t

o d r az ca , Florence ; an l p fi , or hired mourner, very much re in n s embling those wrinkled hags still employed Irela d, and

of a t f in the Highlands Scotland , to sing the coronach une of fa rals , in praise the deceased ; the mous Antinous , an ele

a as a or of g nt figure, which Poussin studied the c non rule f mi r millone symmetry ; the two auns ; and , above all , the ,

r l of x n o dying g adiator ; the attitude the body , the e pressio

of wel of the countenance, the elegance the limbs, and the s f are a ling O the muscles , in this statue, univers lly admired ; of but the execution the back is incredibly delicate . The course of the muscles called long is simi dor s i are so n aturally

marked and tenderly executed , that the marble actually emu lates the softness of flesh and you may count all the spines a as of the vertebr e , raising up the skin in the living body

all f to yet this statue , with its merit , seems in erior the cele

rated of Ctes ilas e b b dying gladiator , as describ d y Pliny, who s ays the expression of it was such as appears altogether

on of incredible . In the court, the opposite side the Capi a a of tol , there is an admir ble st tue a lion devouring a horse , f a of a a of which was ound by the g te Ostia, ne r the pyr mid Ces tius : f a Caius and here on the le t h nd , under a colonnade,

a of is what they call the Columna Rostr ta , erected in honour Duilius a a Caius , who first triumphed over the Carth gini ns old i n scri by sea . But this is a modern pillar, with the p h fa . t e tion , which is so de ced as not to be legible Among l pictures in the gal ery and saloon above, what pleased me S T R 5 19. TRAVEL HROUGH F ANCE AND I T ALY.

u of Rheni most was the Bacch s and Ariadne Guido , and the m f . wol suckling Romulus and Re us , by Rubens The court f a o the P lazzo Farnese is surrounded with antique statues ,

m a are a a ong which the most celebr ted , the Flor , with a m a ; a ost delic te drapery thwe gl diator , with a dead boy over of his shoulder ; the Hercules , with the spoils the Nemean lion : but that which the connoisseurs justly esteem above all Gl eon l the rest , is the Hercules , by y , which you know as wel

. ad as I do , by the great reputation it has acquired This a a n f e mirable st tue h ving bee ound without the legs , thes

Gulielmo la were supplied by de Porta , so happily , that

f a a a when a terw rds the origin l limbs were discovered , Mich el

f in Angelo pre erred the modern ones , both grace and pro

portion ; and they have been retained accordingly . In a little house or shed behind the court is preserved the won

rfu of de l groupe Dirce, commonly called the Toro Farnese, f ae which was brought hither rom the Therm Caracallas . S f There is such pirit , erocity, and indignant resistance, ex i ressed in p the bull , to whose horns Dirce is tied by the hair, u s th a t I have never seen any thing like it , either pon canvas of two or in stone . The statues the brothers endeavouring

t o are f throw him into the sea, beauti ul figures, finely con

r s ted one of o t a ; and the rope, which them holds in a sort f s o chis seled one loose coil , is surprisingly , that can hardly f f r f o . o believe it is stone As Dirce hersel , she seems to be do but. a subaltern character ; but there is a g upon his hind

legs barking at the bull, which is much admired . This am azing groupe was cut out of one stone by A ppollonius Tauris cus of and , two sculptors Rhodes ; and is mentioned

- of by Pliny in the thirty sixth book his Natural history. All the precious monuments of art which h ave come down f of to us rom antiquity are the productions Greek artists . of The Romans had taste enough to admire the arts Greece , as plainly appears by the great collections they m ade of their a archite st tues and pictures , as well as by adopting their c ture and music : but I do not remember to have read of any Roman who m ade a great figure either as a painter or a s ta t u r It n t a y. is ot enough to say those professions were no

5 1 4 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

f of one o the best pieces Raphael . Indeed it made so little

a do not e impression upon me , th t I even rememb r the dis

- of . position the figures The altar piece , by Andrea Sacchi , ' t m ld if t of S . R o au us in he church , would have more merit , the f th e a f h ad figure o s int himsel more consequence , and

was represented in a stronger light . In the Palazzo Borghese I chiefly admired the following pieces : a Venus with two id nymphs , and another with Cup , both by Titian ; an ex

cellen t n r da Roman Piety , by Leo a do Vinci ; and the cele

brated Domin echino m Muse, by , which is a fine , jolly , buxo

fi . of l n gure At the palace Co on a Connestabile, I was charm ed o H e rodias heni a with the , by Guido R ; young Christ ,

a a b a and f and Madonn , y Raph el ; our landscapes , two by

a t he t wo b r . In Claude Lorr ine , and other y Salvato Rosa

the a lazetta or - u to z o p , summer ho se belonging the Pala z R os i liosi fa of a A u p g , I had the satis ction contempl ting the ' r of of r ora Guido , the colours which still emain in high per

fection n , notwithstandi g the common report that the piece b of is spoiled y the dampness of th e apartment . The print t i w an im h s picture , by Freij , ith all its merit, conveys but of of th perfect idea the beauty e original . In the Palazzo r e a of and ie Barbe ini , th re is a gre t collection marbles p

. was e u f tures Among the first , I attract d by a bea ti ul statue

of fa of Venus ; a sleeping un , curious workmanship ; a c a on harming B cchus , lying an ancient sculpture, and the

f . Of amous Narcissus the pictures , what gave me most a a of ple sure was the Magd len Guido, infinitely superior to that by Le Brun in the church of the Carmelites at Paris ; not the Virgin , by Titian ; a Madonna , by Raphael ; but

comparable to that which i s in the Palazzo de Pitti at Flo . r of h ence ; and the death Germanicus , by Poussin , whic I n f In take to be o e o the best pieces in this great collection . ’ l i f t h a cone r S . the Palazzo , there is a beauti ul Cecilia, by a f fine Guercino ; Holy amily . by Raphael ; and a expressive t of S . Domin echino. P a figure Peter weeping, by In the l a i' c azzo Altieri , I admired a picture, by Carlo M ratti , rep s enting a saint calling down lightning from heaven to de fi r s he . th of troy blasp mers It was e gure the saint I admi ed, ROU R C A ND 5 1 5 TRAVEL S TH GH F AN E ITALY.

u of e r s an erely as a portrait . The exec tion the oth r pa t was

( s in t ame enough perhap they were purposely kept down , c of the order to preserve the importan e principal figure . I

imagine Salvator Rosa would have made a different disposi . n on e : a s t he a of tio the sam subject that , mid t d rkness a s a the the tempe t , he would h ve illuminated blasphemer with flash of lightning by which he w as des troyed : this would o a his i have thr wn a dism l gleam upon countenance, d stort ' o of i efi ects of e d by the horr r his s tuation , as well as by the t e and the dr a f u e . h fire, rendered whole scene e d ully pict resqu e s aw f f Cor I n the sam p alace I the am ous Holy amily , by re i h h e f u n o e t u d gio, wh c le t finished , and no th r ar ist wo l l for r w undertake to s upp y ; what eason I kno n ot. Here

- (If P b a c e t oo is a Judgment aris , y Titi n , which is re kon d a " v b . In the c c ery valua le piece Palazzo Odes al hi , there is a l f B uonaroti b a o h H o y amily , by , and another y R phael , b t s ounted - in .v er ff s e c excellent , though y di erent style , extr mely

of t wo r . s c haracteristic those g eat rival artist . If to mad m I was silly enough e a parade, I ight mention s m of s and l ome hundreds ore marble pictures , which I rea ly k . w n e e out t s a at Rome , and eve hat number with a huge of n ot se e but r list those I did ; whateve vanity I may have, i t not n t n Lassure ou r has take his tur and y , upon my wo d a b n f and honour, I h ve descri ed othing but what actually ell own v a for under my Obser tion . As my critical remarks , I am afraid you will t hink them too superficial an d capricious to to e r belong any other person but your humbl s e vant .

TT LE ER XXXIV .

DE AR s ic A m . N e, p ril 2 , 1 765.

I H A VE nothing t o communicate touching the library of the

‘ Vatican , which , with respect .to the apartments and their l o . rnaments, is undoubted y magnificent The numbe r of it n ot e f books contains does xceed orty thousand volumes, all f the w and which are concealed rom Vie , locked up

. for s aw but as ar presses As the manuscripts , I none such e commonly repres ented to strangers of our nation some very

.e ld copies of Virgil and Terence ; two or three missals curi S T N E A N D ” 5 1 6 TRAVEL HROUGH FRA C I TALY .

ous l a th e bO O k Sacrame ntis en y illumin ted ; De Septem , writt

- in L atin by Henry VII I . against Luther ; an d some of that ’

- prince s love letters to Anne Boleyn . l likewise visited th e

b a C as an e tens e n of h Li reri , belongi g to the convent the churc

a a a . had a c alled S . M ria Sopr Minerv I recommenda tion

- a a a a a f a to the princip l libr ri n , dominic n ri r , who received

‘ ‘ me v er an d a a of a y politely , reg led me with sight sever l cu

of the a . rious M S S . cl ssics

. a for Having satisfied my curiosity at Rome , I prep red

' m d a an d a s the a a fa and y ep rture ; , ro d between R dico ni

M on te fi at con e an d a a a is very stony dis gree ble , I sked the

banker Barazzi if there w as not a better . w ay of returning a d th e a to Florence , expressing esire at s me time to see the

a ad of . the b - c sc e Terni He assured me that road y Terni ,

w as f e h a , af and orty mil s shorter t n the other, much more s e d ea an a a . sy, ccommodated with exceeding good uberges

a a I' Had I t ken the trouble to c st my eyes upon the map ,

h a a a a of must ve seen , th t the ro d by Terni , inste d being

f h w as much lon e r a : orty miles s orter , g th n the other but

a of Si niore r z this was not the only mist ke g Ba az i. Grea t

a of h wa a or a th e e p rt t is y lies over steep mount ins , long sid

of h a l a a precipices , whic render tr vel ing in c rriage exceed

a f an d a a nd as for ing tedious , dre d ul , d ngerous ; the public

h m a houses , t ey are in all respects the ost execrable th t ever ‘ s a I entered . I will venture to y, that a common prisoner ’ th e a a a or i a and in M rsh lse , K ng s bench , is more cle nly commodiously lodged than we were in many places on this b a . are a n a nd ro d The houses abomin ly asty , generally desti ' of : a a f a tute provision when e t bles were ound , we were lmost

h a poisoned by t eir cookery their beds were without curt ins ,

or b a t a for edste d , and their windows withou gl ss ; and this sort of entert ainment w e paid as much as if we had been d an a . a a genteelly lodged , sumptuously tre ted I repe t it ag in ,

of a a are all the people I ever knew , the It li ns the most vil l a lanous . da a a y r pacious The first y, h ving p ssed Civita

a t a a a a a of. a C , , s ell n sm ll town st nding on _the top hill we ' what was a an a a put up at c lled excellent inn , where c rdin ls ,

e and f e . pr lates , princes, o t n lodged Being meagre day,

L 9 18 TR AVELS THROUG H FRANC E AND ITA Y.

levied for the purpose from travellers by the aubergiste as

who or f a- to Terni , lets his calashes f hal a zechin piece

r those that are curious to see this phenomenon . Besides the

wo li for te ' t postil ons whom I paid this excursion , at the ra of one a was f w who st ge in posting, there a ello posted him

f one of a wa of to out; sel behind the ch ises , by y going point the different views of the cascade ; and his demand amount~ f ou of extor ed to our or five pauls . To give y an idea the of h e a I ou for tion t os vill nous publican s , must tell y , that a dinner n ot t and supper, which even hunger could temp ’ s a n k be u to eat , and ight s lodging in three truc le ds , I paid

to f s l . Y ou eighty pauls, amounting orty shilling ster ing ask me why I submitted to such imposition I will tell — you I have more than once in my travels made a formal complaint of the exorbitancy of a publican; to the magis

of r e . f n trate the place ; but I neve receiv d any satis actio , of o to man and have lost abundance time. Had B pr ceeded

r woa ual correction, I should have alarmed and te rified the : had e fu to a the men I per mptorily re sed p y sum total , the

landlord , who was the postmaster, would not have supplied me s with hor es to proceed on my journey . I tried the ex eriment i o in m s f . v p at Muy France, where I put y el into a of l it lent passion , had abundance trouble, was detained ti l nd f f f to was almost night, a a ter all ound mysel obliged sub mit f r f m h , u nishing at the same tim e matter o infinite triu p t o mob e the , which had surrounded the coach , and interest d t in f f hemselves warmly avour of their townsman . I some a the young patriot , in good health and spirits would t ke f trouble, as o ten as he is imposed upon by the road in travel

to f a - a f t e ling, to have recourse the ount in he d , and pre er a of in g ular complaint to the comptroller the posts , either or f do France Italy , he would have ample satis action , and to the great service community . Terni is an agreeable town , r l n p etty well built, and situated in a pleasant va ley , betwee

two of a the branches the river Nera, whence it was c lled by

a . b e ncients Interamna Here is an agreea le piazza, wher

s n a of l a e : ta ds church that was o d a he then temple . Ther are some a ua le e are v l b paintings in the church . The peopl VELS THROUGH R TRA F ANCE AND ITALY. 19

be . s aid to very civil , and provisions to be extremely cheap

It - of as of _ was the birth place the emperor Tacitus , well as o f the historian of the same n ame . In ur journey rom hence to is Spoleto , we passed over a high mountain (I think it

o a . called S mna) , where it was necessary to h ve two addition l o o a h rses t the carriage, and the road winds along a preci

a f a pice, which is equally dangerous and dre d ul . We p ssed of a ta of a through part Spoleto , the c pi l Umbria, which is O f a . c n r pretty large city this, however, I give no othe f own account rom my observation , but that I saw at a dis tance the famous Gothic aqueduct of brick : this is memtion n for of its ed by Addiso as a structure, which , the height

not e . d arches , is equalled by any thing in Europ The roa in or from hence to Foligno, where we lay , is kept good a d f out o der, and lies through elight ul plain , laid int f i oil and beauti ul nclosures , abounding with wine, , corn , c of f s attle , and watered by the pastoral streams the amou

Clitumnus or f s e. river , which takes it rise in three our f O parate rivulets issuing rom a rock near the highway . n on n the right hand, we saw several towns situated risi g of A ss isio fa for grounds , and , among the rest , that , mous ‘ e of . th birth S Francis, whose body, being here deposited , f occasions a great concourse o pilgrims . We met a Roman

princess going thither with a grand retinue, in consequence of for t e - of her a vow she had made , the establishment l i i m of l a . Fu n u m he lth Foligno , the g the ancients, is a s a l

not of e ‘ town , unpleasant, lying in the midst mulb rry plant e v - f on s tions , ineyards , and corn ields , and built both side of our h the little river Topino . In choosing beds at t e i n one n , I perceived chamber locked , and desired it might e be opened ; upon which the cameriere declared , with som ‘ B eso na di r e a s u excellenza c a che reluctance, g ; p o o f , na bes tia e m rta i n ues ta a mer a 3 n on e a n ra lus t a ta u o g c co r . s Un er e When I inquired what bea t it was , he replied , ’ ico In l u not f t g ese . I suppose he wo ld have made so ree our if for with country and religion , he had not taken us G ma f w f Mr e—r n catholics , as we a ter ards learned rom Re i . d a bur o e a Next y we crossed the Ty ver a handsom 520 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRAN C E A N D

d a nd i bri ge , in mounting the steep hill upon which the c ty of a s our d a d Perugi tands , horses being exhausted , were r gge a a e of a e b ckw rds , by the w ight the carri ge , to the very edg

‘ o f i i for as t a prec p ce, where , happily us , a man p sing tha

w a a n i on e of h y placed a l rge sto e beh nd the wheels , whic w e a e = all stopped their motion , otherwise should h v been

' ‘ n oth er u ' dashed in pieces . W e had a gly hill to ascend w was f and o s within the city , hich more di ficult danger u th an the other : but the postillions an d the other beasts made

eflbr t s t n th e such , hat we mou ted without the least stop , to

s f a e ummit , where we ound ourselves in a l rge piazza, wher

w n the h orses are al ays cha ged . There being no relays at t da and the pos , we were obliged to stay the whole y n a e u n ight at Perugia , which is consid rable city , b ilt upo of e a f the acclivity a hill , adorn d with some eleg nt ountains ,

r » a e a and seve al h ndsom churches , cont ining some valuable

i R a and a p ctures by Guido , phael , his m ster Pietro Peru h was a a of a . T e on gino , who n tive this pl ce next stage is of a w h Th ras emene of the banks the l ke , hic was the the an

cients u f of a a l in , a bea ti ul piece w ter, bove thirty mi es cir

cumference a n t , having three isl nds , aboundi g with excellen

of a fi s h : upon a peninsula it there is town and castle . It w as in this neighbourhood where the consul Flaminius was

totally defeated with gr eat slaughter by Hannibal . From a b the Perugi to Florence , the posts are all dou le , and road

bad u a e - - is so , that we never co ld travel bove ight and twenty

‘

- T miles a . “ e of to day were ten obliged quit the carriage, and walk up steep mountains ; and the w ay in general w as a a dau so unequ l and stony , th t we were j olted even to the f ger of our lives . I n ever felt any sort o exercise or fatigue s o intolerable and I did not fail to bestow an hundred bene-a a Barazzi a e dictions per diem upon the b nker , by whose dvic we h ad taken this road ; yet there wa s no remedy but pa

tie nce . If the h ad st coach not been incredibly strong , it mu a f have been sh ttered to pieces . The fi th night we passed

a Camoccia a we at a place c lled , a miser ble cabaret , where

f la were ain to cook our own supper , and y in a musty cham ber h had wn fire» , whic never kno a fire, and indeed had no

52 2 R S T N C A D T AVEL HROUGH FRA E N I TALY .

f be ore it was shut , and provide a coach to come and take us up at the side of the river where we should be obliged to pass in the boat ; for I could not bear the thoughts of lying e u in other night a common cabaret . Here , however, another

ffi e . w as a an a dra di culty occurr d There but one ch ise, d goon offi cer in the imperial troops insisted upon his having

e for f a b spoke it himsel and his serv nt . A long dispute e r b nsued , which had like to have p oduced a qu arrel ; ut a a f at length , I accommod ted m tters , by telling the o ficer

l a a and that he shou d have place in it gr tis , his servant

- might ride a horseback . He accepted the offer without a out h hesitation ; but, in the me ntime , we set in the coac f of be ore them , and having proceeded about a couple

f a a th miles , the road was so deep rom a he vy r in , and e e f The b asts were so atigued , that they could not proceed . postillions scourging the poor anim als with great barbari t e ffor t y, th ey made an , and pulled the coach to the brink of or a of wa t a precipice , r ther a kind hollow y, which migh n or h f re be about seve eig t eet lower than the road . He

f out an d my wi e and I leaped , stood under the rain, up t o the ancles in mud ; while the postillions still exercis

one of fore horse f ing their whips , the s airly tumbled down the des cent , and hung by the neck , so that he was almost e f a f s trangled b ore he could be diseng ged rom the traces, by

of f the assistance some oot travellers that h appened to p ass .

n i a the While we remai ed in this d lemma , the ch ise, with ffi l o cer and my servant , coming up , we exchanged p aces ; f f h my wi e and I proceeded in the chaise, and le t them wit f w Miss C and Mr R to ollo in the coach . The road from hence to Florence is nothin g but a succession of

in a steep mountains , paved and conducted such a m nner, th a t one would imagine the design had been to render it im

a an o - n practic ble by y sort f wheel carriage . Notwithstandi g ll our a f be er a ende vours , I ound it would impossible to ent

f ~ Florence be ore the gates were shut . I flattered and threat : f w ened by turns but the ello , who had been remarkably civil a t first , grew sullen and impertinent . He told me I must not think of reaching Florence : that the boat would 2 TRAVEL S T H R OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 5 3 not take the carriage on board ; and that from th e other s f e ide , I must walk five miles be ore I should reach the gat that was Open : but he would carry me to an excellent os

be i i . teria, where I should entertained and lodg ed l ke a pr nce I was now convinced that he had lingered on purpose to s erve this innkeeper ; and I took it for granted th at what he told me of the distance between the ferry and the gate was a ’ lie . It was eight o clock when we arrived at his inn . I a w f h e lighted ith my wi e to view the chambers , desiring would not put up his horses . Finding it was a villa nous h f s s e ouse, we came orth , and, by thi time , the horse wer f how put up . I asked the ellow he durst presume to contra di to the ct my orders , and commanded him to put them in r if ? If o I chaise . He asked his tu n I was mad I th ught and the lady had strength and courage enough to walk five

’ i not w m les in the dark , through a road which we did kno , and which was broke up by a continued rain of two days ?

i a he still i I told him he was an impudent rasc l , and , as hes tated one e , I collared him with hand , and shook my can

v er h . l o his head wit the other It was the on y weapon I had , e ither offensive or defensive ; for I had left my sword and

s i . f w b mu quetoon n the coach At length the ello o eyed , t a k a e s hough with gre t reluctance, crac ing m ny sever joke u i pon us in the meantime , and being joined in his ra llery e all t of ruffi n by the innkeep r, who had the ex ernal marks a a .

a a The house stood in a solit ry situation , and not a soul p er e pe ed but thes two miscreants , so that they might have f o Y ou e murdered us without ear f detection . do not lik the one to apartments said , be sure they were not fitted ’ up for persons of your rank and quality 1 Y ou will ’ of s f e be glad a wor e chamber, continued the other, be or ” ‘ f ou to . I y get bed you walk to Florence to night , you will ’ e sleep so sound that the fleas will not disturb you . Tak ’ care you do not take up your night s lodgings in the middle ’ of f - in or o . the road , in the ditch the city wall I fired wardl e ma no y at thes sarcasms, to which , however , I de e In th r ply ; and my wife was almost dead with fear. e

ro d fr m c t the w met h - fel a o hen e o boat, e wit an ill looking ' N A ' 52 4 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRA CE N D I TA LY .

ff i th e and low , who o ered his service to conduct us nto city ;

was our a a w as f a ~ s uch situ tion , th t I ain to ccept his pro

‘ a a as two a pos l , especi lly we had sm ll boxes in the chaise by

a a and l to accident, cont ining some c ps laces be onging

h ad a a in my wife . I still hoped the postillion ex gger ted

’ a a and was the distance between the bo t and the city g te ,

f - man a w e confirmed in this opinion by the erry , who s id in h ad not above h alf a league to walk . Behold us then this expedition myself wrapped up in a very heavy great

a a . a co t , and my cane in my h nd I did not im gine I could

a a of had fe h ve w lked a couple miles in this equipage , my li

f a a h ad been depending ; my wi e, a delic te cre ture , who

a a a her f a nd ra amu fii n sc rce ever w lked mile in li e , the g

o r h w f e u ar m. a be or us , with boxes under his The nig t s dark and wet ; the road slippery and dirty ; n ot' a soul w as

a a : wa s a and seen , nor sound was he rd all silent , dre ry horrible . I laid my a ccount with a violent fit of illness from

fa a if a s the cold I should in llibly c tch , I escaped s assination ,

f of as n o the ears which were the more troublesome , I had

' h r weapon to defend our lives . W ile I labou ed u nder the

of a - a of a weight my gre t coat , which made the stre ms swe t w fa and w as the flow do n my ce shoulders , I plunging in mud - and at a e , up to the mid leg , at every step the s me tim

f w ho a f ad obliged to support my wi e , wept in silence , h l de

and fa . our our with terror tigue To crown vexation , con a fa w as f of I ductor w lked so st , that he o ten out sight , and

i a . A ll ld magined he had run aw y with the boxes I cou do, on a w as a s and these occ sions , to holla I could , swear hor

l b a out not but rib y that I would blow his r ins . I did know a h these oaths and men ces mig t keep other rogues in awe .

I n n f a t this man er did we travel our long miles , m king almos

of - a fa of an entire circuit the city w ll , without seeing the ce a at a e a human cre ture, and length reached the g te , wher a a a e a af we were ex mined by the gu rd , and llow d to p ss , ter they had told us it was a long mile from h ence to the house f i i d a o . Van n , where we proposed to lo ge No m tter ; being n ow f th e u airly within city , I plucked p my spirits , and f of s case am per ormed the rest the journey with uch , that I

526 V S O G FRA N C TRA EL THR U H E AND ITALY. a of f dozen oxen , and as many men , to disengage it rom f the holes into which it had run . It was in the con usion of a R these adventures, that the capt in and his valet, Mr a nd had l my servant , like to have gone a l by the ears toge

ther . The peace was with difficulty preserved by the inter posit ion of Miss C who suffered incredibly from cold

f i : e t no and wet, terror, vexation , and at gue y happily bad consequence ensued . The coach and baggage were brough t s f to of f a ely in Florence next morning, when all . us ound

o u l f . a m f rselves wel re reshed , and in good spirits I a raid

a ou this is not the c se with y , who must by this time be quite a l f jded with this long epistle , which sha l there ore be closed

f u s . without urther ceremony by , yo rs alway

LE TTE R XXXV .

DE AR SI R , N ice, March 20 , 1 765 .

(rm : far season being advanced , and the weather growing bo s e a out i terous, I mad but a short st y at Florence , and set for h f Le Pisa , wit ull resolution to take the nearest road to

r f fe r . ici , where we proposed to hire a elucca Genoa I had a great desire to s ee Leghorn and Lucca ; but the dread of ’ a w inter s voyage by sea in an open boat e ffectually restrain

of our ba e d my cur iosity . To avoid the trou ble having g a f e st two c to i a for a g ge shi ted ev ry po , I hired haises P s c of z s a nd a a s the ouple echin , there we rrived bout even in e not f of o en the vening, though without ear the c nsequ ce, as

t a the . t c alashes were qui e open , and it r ined all way I mus o w n I was so sick of the wretched accommodation one mee ts w of r e ith in every part Italy , except the g eat cities , so avers to s o f of of t the sea at this season , and ond the city Pisa, tha

e a n I should c rtainly h ve staid here the winter, had I not bee e f as f m e s eparat d rom my books and papers , as well ro oth r c onveniencies a nd con nections which I had at Nice ; and fores een that the thoughts of performing the same disagree. ’ a ble voyage in the spring would embitter my whole winter s w for n e njoyment . I again hired t o calashes Lerici , proposi g t o li e m s or t of a w e we e at Sarzana, thre iles h th t place, her RO R N rr xt 52 T RAVEL S TH UGH F A CE AND r . 7 w f to ere told we should find com ortable lodging, and embark n ext day wi thout halting . When we departe d in the morn in a g , it r ined very hard , and the Cerchio , which the chaises a o s had formerly p ssed, alm t without wetting the wheels , n ow to d was swelled a mighty river, broad , and eep , and f rapid . It was with great di ficulty I could persuade my

f o for w n wi e t enter the boat ; it ble a storm , and she had see in f w it , coming over rom the other side, hurried do n a con

ble of n otwiths tand s idera way by the rapidity the current , ff of a ing all the e orts the w term en . Near two hours were s pen t in transporting us with our ch aises . The road between m this and Spirito Santo was rendered al ost impassable . d be an to When we arrive at Massa , it g grow dark , and the postmaster assured us that the road to Sarzano was overflow e d - in such a manner as not to be passed in the day time,

a f our e without imminent d nger . We there ore took up lodg in one of g at his house , which was in all respects the worst f had . as e we yet entered Next day , we ound the Magra larg : w i t ut and violent as the Cerchio ho ever, we passed witho

an c f . e y a cident, and in the a ternoon arrived at Lerici Ther we were immediately besieged by a number of patrons of f f m a be eluccas, ro among whom I chose a Spani rd , partly c he e ause looked like an honest man , and produced an ampl e ar be c rtificate, signed by an English gentleman ; and p tly cause he was not an Italian ; for by this time I had imbibed a strong prejudice against the common people of that coun

. a f a e try We emb rked in the morning be ore day , with a g l

that made us r un the lee - gunwale in the water ; but when

of f we pretended to turn the point Porto Venere, we ound f our our the wind ull in teeth , and were obliged t o return to f fleeced quarters , where we had been shame ully by the land who not an a lord, nevertheless was such exorbitant knave s t l to the postmas er, whose house I would advise all trave lers

a . e se e a of void Her , indeed , I had occasion to an inst nce e prudence and economy, which I should certainly imitat if A ever I had occasion to travel this way by myself. n E f f nglishman , who had hired a elucca rom Antibes to Leg n hor , was put in here by stres s of weather ; but being aware 528 S N TRAVEL THROUGH FRA CE AND ITALY . of of the extortion innkeepers , and the bad accommodation i n on a on their houses , he slept bo rd his own mattresses ;

be for a and there likewise had all his conveniences e ting .

a a bu He sent his serv nt on shore occasion lly to y provision , and see it cooked according to his own direction i n some

a nd h ad a a f public house ; his me ls regul rly in the elucca . i a h This even ng he c me ashore to stretc his legs , and took a “ a on a h C solitary w lk the be ch , avoiding us wit great are ,

: a was although he knew we were English his v let , who n a abundantly commu icative , told my servant, th t in coming a t a h through Fr nce, his mas er had tr velled t ree days in com h pany wit two other English g entlemen , whom he met upon

a a the ro d, and in all th t time he never spoke a word to

: et in r s c h e either y other e pe ts was a good man , mild , cha

ritable a nd h m . a a i i , u ane This is a ch r cter truly Br t sh . ’ o l At five c ock in the morning we put to sea again , and

w as a f n though the wind contr ry , made shi t to reach the tow of a Sestri di Lev nte, where we were most graciously received

' n by the publican butcher a nd hi s family . The house was i much better order tha n b efore ; the pe ople were much more

: b and obliging we passed a very tolera le night , had a very

a a for reasona ble bill to pay in the morning. I c nnot ccount

fa an o w a a b i t this vourable change y ther y, th n by ascri ing

ff .of r c f e to the e ects a te rible storm , whi h had two days be or u a of h i t s and torn p great number t e r olive ree by the roots , done such damage as terrified them into humility and sub

da n f l d mission . Next y, the water bei g delight u , we arrive ’ a a by one o clock in the afternoon a t Genoa . Here I m de n other bargain with our pa tron Antonio to carry us to Nice .

a He had been hitherto rem rkably obliging, and seemingly h mod . a was est He spoke L tin fluently , and tinctured wit

a a he was of the sciences . I beg n to im gine a person a good f wh o h ad f f amily , met with mis ortunes in li e , and respected d f and him accor ingly ; but I ound him mercenary , mean , a rapacious . The wind being still contr ry , when we depart e d f f rom Genoa , we could get no urther than Finale, where

a r ecom we lodged in a very dismal habit tion , which was

re ., men ded to us as the best auberge in the place . What n

530 TR A VEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

a of plained that the repro ches the other gentleman , whom he

m ma on domo a was pleased to call y j , had lmost turned his brain . When he quitted the room , his cameriere, laying ’ of a ow n f ad hold his m ster s last words , pointed to his orehe ,

f - and said , he had in ormed the gentleman over night that

a . his p tron was mad This day , we were, by a high wind

af for Mauritio in the ternoon , driven shelter into Porto , where we found the post- house even worse than that of Fin ale ; and what rendered it more shocking, was a girl quite covered

a - h with the confluent sm ll pox , who lay in a room throug w wa s a b hich it necess ry to pass to the other cham ers, and who smelled so strong as to perfume the whole house . We t f au f S . were but fi teen miles rom Remo , where I knew the

an d a . berge was tolerable, thither I resolved to travel by l nd and I accordingly ordered five mules to travel post , a f very ridiculous cavalcade we ormed , the women being obliged to use common saddles for in this country even the on e i ladies sit astride . The road lay along cont nued preci d f ea pice , and was so i ficult, that the b sts never could ex d In ce e a walking pace . some places we were obliged to n f alight . Seve hours were spent in travelling fi teen short l l t our o d S . mi es at length we arrived at lodgings in Remo, f W e which we ound white washed , and in great order . f n supped pretty com ortably , slept well , and had no reaso f to complain o imposition in paying the bill . This was not

a a of for i the c se in the rticle the mules , which I was obl ged

f a c d of to pay fi ty livres , c or ing to the regulation the posts .

- us ff The post master, who came along with , had the e rontery if to tell me , that I had hired the mules to carry me and ‘ m o . of l y c mpany to S Remo , in the way common travel ing , they would have cost me but fifteen livres ; but as I dem and

- ed post horses , I must submit to the regulations . This is a

d of distinction the more absur , as the road is such a nature as renders it impossible to travel faster in one way than in another ; n or indeed is there the least difference either in the

a or carri ge convenience , between travelling post and j ourney

a ridin g . A public n might with the same reason charge me v u for if three li res a po nd whiting , and questioned about TRAVELS THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 531

th re l that if for e e imposition , p y, I had asked fish , I should hav had the very same whiting for the fifth part of the money ; but that he mad e a very wide difference between selling it f . O ur as fish , and selling it as whiting elucca came round f Mauritio and m rom Porto in the night , e barking next a f f morning , we rrived at Nice about our in the a ternoon . Thus have I given you a circumstantial detail of my Ita l s to ian expedition , during which I was expo ed a great of number hardships , which I thought my weakened consti turion could not have bore as Well as to violent fits of pas of sion , chequered , however , with transports a more agree able nature : insomuch that I may say I was for two months a or f continually gitated either in mind body , and very o ten e in both a t the sam time . As my disorder at first arose from f of h a sedentary li e , producing a relaxation the fibres , whic

a on n natur lly brought a listlessness , indolence , and dejectio

of h of the spirits , I am convinced t at this hard exercise

b o a of nd o mind and ody, c oper ted with the change air a b e cts to j , brace up the relaxed constitution , and promote a

of m ore vigorous circulation the juices , which had long i For h languished even a lmos t to stagnat on . some years I ad a n ew been as subject to colds as a delic te woman delivered . If I ventured to go abroad when there w as the least moisture

or a either in the air , upon the ground , I was sure to be l id

u f . in p a ortnight with a cough and asthma But, this ff and a in journey , I su ered cold r in , and stood and walked

f a d the wet , heated mysel with exercise , and swe te violently,

w f a on a f t ithout eeling the le st disorder ; but , the contr ry , el myself growing stronger every day in the midst of these ex

. a of cesses Since my return to Nice , it has r ined the best part t of i n n two months , to the as onishment all the people the cou

a and try ; yet , during all th t time I have enjoyed good health

. O n a a a t spirits Christm s eve , I went to the c thedral mid b of i night to hear high mass cele rated by the new bishop N ce,

i n onti ca libus a p fi , and stood near two hours uncovered in

h an to re cold gallery , wit out having y cause in the sequel f ll o . am now t pent my curiosity In a word, I so we , tha I 582 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY.

no longer despair of seeing you and the rest of my friends a i n Engl and ; a pleasure which is eagerly desired by, de r

sir, your affectionate humble servant .

LETTER XXXVI .

N i c M arch 1 5. DE AR SI R , e, 23 , 7 6

Y ou a sk whether I think the French people are more taxed

than the English ; but I apprehend , the question would be

if ou more apropos , y asked whether the French taxes are more unsupportable th an the English ? for in comparing u of b rdens, we ought always to consider the strength the w f shoulders that bear them . I know no better ay o esti

fa of mating the strength , than by examining the ce the a of country , and observing the appe rance the common peo

of . ple, who constitute the bulk every nation When I therefore see the country of England smiling with cultiva

' tion ; the grounds exhibiting all the perfection of agricul out f ture , parcelled into beauti ul enclosures , corn fields, hay, w n and pasture, woodland and common ; he I see her mea

dows well stocked with black cattle, her downs covered s of with heep ; when I view her teams horses and oxen , large fat f th and strong , and sleek ; when I see her arm houses e

a of h bitations plenty , cleanliness , and convenience ; and

fed a her peasants well , well lodged , well clothed , t ll and an d a e ll stout , h le and j y ; I cannot help concluding that the people are well able to hear those impositions which the public necessities have rendered necessary . O n the other of hand, when I perceive such signs poverty , misery , and

a of f dirt , mong the commonalty France, their un enced fields d u of or g up in despair, without the intervention meadow f w f allo ground , without cattle to urnish manure, without horses to execute the plans of agriculture ; their farm - houses f mean , their urniture wretched , their apparel beggarly ; themselves and their beasts the images of famine ; I cannot f help thinking they groan under oppression , either rom their f landlords or their government probably rom both . The principal impositions of the French government are

S A N D 534 TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE ITALY.

selves for the benefit of their country . They must be free d h in their persons , secure in their property , in ulged wit ff f the reasonable leases , and e ectually protected by law rom

insolence and Oppression Of their superiors . ’ n ma Great as the Fre ch king s resources y appear, they are hardly sufficient to defray the enormous expense of his of government . About two millions sterling per annum his revenue are said to be anticipated for paying the interest of the public debts ; and the rest is found in adequate to th e f of charge of a prodigious standing army , a double rontier of fortified towns , and the extravagant appointments ambas

ador s s , generals , governors , intendants,commandants , and f of ff other Offi cers o the crown , all whom a ect a pomp,

which is equally ridiculous and prodigal . A French gene ral in the field is a lways attended by thirty or forty cooks ; for of and thinks it is incumbent upon him , the glory France , n to give a hundred dishes every day at his table . Whe

n Belleisle Do Philip and the mareschal duke de , had their f quarters at Nice, there were fi ty scullions constantly em

ployed in the great square , in plucking poultry . This

absurd luxury infects their whole army . Even the commis s arie s keep open tables ; and nothing is seen but prodigality

of and profusion . The king Sardinia proceeds upon another

a plan . His troops are better clothed , better p id , and bet

fed a of . of ter th n those France The commandant Nice, f of eu has about our hundred a year appointments , which

and a able him to live decently , even to entert in strangers . a a of in On the other hand , the comm nd nt Antibes , which is f the all respects more inconsiderable than Nice, has rom French king above five times the sum to support the glory of

of his monarch , which all the sensible part mankind treat f r with ridicule and contempt . But the finances O France a e a of so ill man ged , that many their commandants , and other f d o ficers , have not been able to raw their appointments these

In a two years . vain they compl in and remonstrate . When w they grow troublesome they are removed . H o then

of ? must they support the glory France how, but by

of oppressing the poor people . The treasurer makes use T RAVEL S TH ROUGH F RANCE AND ITALY . 535

their money for his own benefit . The king knows it ; h e f f u th knows his o ficers , thus de ra ded , fleece, and oppress e people ; but he thinks proper to wink at these abuses . That governmen t may be said to be weak and tottering which f e The finds itsel obliged to conniv at such proceedings . of in to king France, order give strength and stability

m to to his ad inistration , ought to have sense adopt a sage of of f plan economy , and vigour mind su ficient to execute h i n a t e . H it all its p rts, with most rigorous exactness e to f u to ought have courage enough to find a lt, and even

of punish , the delinquents, what quality soever they may be ; and the first act of reformation ought to be a total abolition of all the farms . There are undoubtedly many marks of in of the i n relaxation the reigns French government , and all probability the subjects of France will be the first to take the advantage of it . There is at present a violent fermenta

of ff h the tion di erent principles among t em , which , under

n of or reig a very weak prince, during a long minority,

in In ro may produce a great change the constitution . p to of portion the progress reason and philosophy , which have e mad g reat advances in this kingdom , superstition loses ground ; ancien t prejudices give way ; a spirit of freedom takes the ascendant . All the learned laity of France detest

of f on the hierarchy as a plan despotism , ounded imposture and usurpation . The protestants , who are very numerous

of r eli i in the southern parts , abhor it with all the rancour g

ous f . of anaticism Many the commons , enriched by com

f of merce and manu acture, grow impatient those odious f m distinctions , which exclude them ro the honours and pri v ileges due to their importance in the commonwealth ; and

or of in all the parliaments tribunals justice the kingdom , seem bent upon asserting their rights and independan ce in ’ f of e x ence the ace the king s prerogative, and even at the p of f his power and authority . Should any prince , there ore ,

or own be seduced by evil counsellors , misled by his bigotry, to take some arbitrary step , that may be extremely disagree able to all those communities , without having spirit to exert

for of u the Violence of his power the support his meas res , he S ROU 536 T RAVEL TH GH FRANCE A ND ITALY. will become equ ally detested and despised ; and the infla

ence of the commons will i nsensibly encroach upon the pre a

if m of of . i tensions the crown But , in the ti e a m nority, the power of the government should be divided among d ff for i erent competitors the regency , the parliaments and people will find it still more easy to acquire and ascertai n

a the liberty at which they aspire, because they will h ve the of k r balance power in their hands , and be able to ma e eithe

s cale preponderate . I could say a great deal more upon this subject ; and I have some remarks to m ake relating to the methods which might be taken in case of a fresh rupture

for a a u on with France , m king Vigoro s impres sion that king f d om. But these I must de er till another occasion , having n n or a t t o bu t either room leisure present add any thing, h that I am , wit great truth , dear sir, your very humble

servant .

LETTE R XXXVII .

' R N ic r z1 DE A R D OC TO , e. Ap 2 , 1 765.

s A I have now passed a second winter at Nice, I think my f a f on sel qualified to m ke some arther remarks this climate . of f During the heats last summer, I flattered mysel with the prospect of the fine weather I should e njoy i n the winter ; f but neither I , nor any person in this country , could oresee the rainy wea ther that prevailed from the middle of Novem of f ber till the twentieth of March . In this short period our

m a fift - of a onths , we h ve had y six days rain , which I t ke to be a greater quantity than generally falls during th e six

of of worst months the year in the county Middlesex , espe

ciall for a a d a y as it was the most p rt a he vy continue r in . The south winds generally predomin ate in the wet season at Nice ; but this winter the rain was accomp anied with every

h fre wind that blows , except the south ; thoug the most

h f a t quent were t ose that came rom the east and north qu r ers .

e a m n Notwithstanding th se gre t ra s , such as were never know

f of a d a be ore at Nice in the memory man , the intermedi te ys of f f air weather were delight ul , and the ground seemed per f l ect . f f y dry The air itsel was perfectly free rom moisture .

- f on e Though I live upon a ground loor, surrounded thre

O N A N 538 TRAVELS THR UGH FRA CE D ITALY .

e f for - plac is amous its pomatum , gloves , wash balls, per

h . fumes , and toilette boxes , lined wit bergamot I am told ff it a ords good lodging, and is well supplied with provisions . now for our f m We are preparing journey to England, ro the exercise of which I promise myself much benefit ; a on but journey extremely agreeable, not only that account , l of f also because it wil restore me to the company my riends , f a and remove me rom place , where I leave nothing but the f air which I can possibly regret . The only riendships I have f contracted at Nice are with strangers , who, like mysel , only

s ojourn here for a season . I now find by experience it is f f one great olly to buy urniture, unless is resolved to settle

here for some years . The Nissards assured me with great a l for confidence, that I should always be ble to sel it a very little loss ; whereas I find myself obliged to part with it for

a f about one third of what it cost . I h ve sent or a coach to s o Aix, and , as soon as it arrives, shall take my departure that the next letter you receive from m e will be dated from

s on . ome place the road I purpose to take Antibes, Toulon ,

Marseilles , Aix , Avignon , and Orange, in my way ; places,

a which I have not yet seen , and where, perh ps , I shall find s for omething your amusement , which will always be a con of sideration some weight with , dear sir, yours .

T LE TE R XXXVIII .

To s DR A T N ICE .

DE A R SIR Tur i n ll ar h , , I c 1 8, 1 765 . I f m AM just returned ro an excursion to Turin , which is f of about thirty leagues rom hence , the greater part the way f f dif lying over right ul mountains covered with snow . The

fi cult of a f y the road , however, re ches no arther than Coni , from whence there is an open highway through a fine plain far of country , as as the capital Piedmont ; and the traveller is accommodated with chaise and horses to proceed either

or cambiatura as of . e post, by , in other parts Italy Ther are only two ways of performing the journey over the moun f m one tains ro Nice ; is to ride a muleback, and the other S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY . 589

to . f be carried in a chair The ormer I chose , and set out with my servant on the seventh day of Februa ry at tw o in f f . o the a ternoon I was hardly clear Nice, when it began to n n an rai so hard , that in less tha hour the mud was half of a foot deep in many parts the road . This was the only

v ff incon enience we su ered , the way being in other respects practicable enough for there is but one small hill to cross ’ on of of L E s care ne the side the village , where we arrived about six in the evening . The ground in this neighbour hood is tolerably cultivated, and the mountains are planted to the tops with olive trees . The accommodation here is s o bad no be i n very , that I had inclination to bed longer than was absolutely necessary for refreshment ; and therefore I on proceeded my journey at two in the morning , con ducted

a for by guide, whom I hired this purpose at the rate of three

- a . one livres day Having ascended side, and descended the of other, the mountain called Braus, which took up four hours , though the road is not bad , we at six reached th e

a of Sos ello vill ge p , which is agreeably situated in a small valley , surrounded by prodigious high and barren moun

a f tains . This little pl in is pretty ertile , and being watered

f f th . by a pleasant stream , orms a delight ul contrast with e hideous rocks that surround it . Having reposed myself and our my mules two hours at this place, we continued journey

the B rovis over second mountain , called , which is rather f more considerable than the first, and in our hours arrived at La Giandola, a tolerable inn , situated betwixt the high

and l un- f of road a sma l river, about a g shot rom the town

B rie lie f on . g , which we le t the right As we jogged along of two fi in the grey the morning , I was a little startled at u f to g res which I saw be ore me, and began put my pistols i i n . n order It must be observed , that these mountains are fes ted c ntr a ba ndier s of m with o , a set s uggling peasants , very f of bold and desperate, who make a tra fic selling tobacco, w salt, and other merchandize, hich have not paid duty , and sometimes lay travellers under contribution . I did not doubt but there was a gang of these freebooters at hand ; but as e two no mor than persons appeared, I resolved to let them R S R A N D T AVEL TH OUGH FRANCE ITALY .

w for f e kno we were prepared de ence , and fired on of my

of f . pistols , in hope that the report it, echoed rom the sur

' roundin r ock s a ff g , would produce proper e ect but the mountains and roads being entirely co v ered with sno w to

or a considerable depth , there was little no reverberation ,

of - and the sound was not louder than that a pop gun , al of though the piece contained a good charge powder . N e v ertheless n ot fa a , it did il to eng ge the attention of the

one of m a strangers , who immedi tely wheeled to the left

about , and being by this time very near me, gave me an of opportunity contemplating his whole person . He was w very tall , meagre , and yello , with a long hooked nose ,

and small twinkling eyes . His head was cased in a w oollen

- night cap , over which he wore a flapped hat ; he had a silk handkerchief about his neck ; and his mouth was furnished f with a short wooden pipe, rom which he discharged wreath

in g clouds of tobacco smoke . He was wrapped in a kind of

of n a z f- h capot gree b i e, lined with wol skin ; ad a pair of

monstrous boots , quilted on the inside with cotton ; was al

d low most covered with irt ; and rode a mule so , that his

n of lo g legs hung dangling within six inches the ground . This grotesque figure was so much more ludicrous th an ter not rible, that I could help laughing ; when , taking his pipe out of his mouth , he very politely accosted me by name . Y ou may easily guess I was exceedingly surprised at such an address on the top of the mountain B rovi s but he forth d f with put an end to it, by iscovering himsel to be the Mar

m a quis M . who I had the honour to be cquainted with at f Nice . A ter having rallied him upon his equipage , he gave m e to understand he had set out from Nice the morning of d a a the same y th t I departed ; that he was going to Turin , and that he had sent on e of his servants before him to Coni with his baggage . Knowing him to be an agreeable com

a of panion , I was gl d this encounter , and we resolved to tra of vel the rest the way together . We dined at La Giandola , d f a a an in the a ternoon rode long the little river Riod , which m f f runs in a botto between right ul precipices , and in several of l places forms natural cascades, the noise which had wel

5 42 T S E RAVEL THROUGH FRANC AND ITALY .

a f - for anim ls , and were rost shod the occasion , they stumbled f f and ell very o ten , the ice being so hard th a t the sh arp headed nails in their shoes could not penetrate . Having of f reached the top this mountain , rom whence there is no

of a w e a for prospect but other rocks and mount ins , prep red on b descending the other side y the leze, which is an occa s ion al d of of u sle ge made two pieces wood , carried p b y the coulants for this purpose . I did not much relish this kind of a as a carriage , especi lly the mount in was very steep , and

i fo a covered w th such a thick g , that we could h rdly see two

or d f . our three yar s be ore us Nevertheless , guides were so

n an d a h ad co fident , my comp nion , who passed the sam e w a a y on other occ sions , was so secure , that I ventured to

l f on one of p ace mysel this machine, the coulants standing f behind me, and the other sitting be ore, as th e conductor, f with his eet paddling among the snow , in order to mode

of . rate the velocity its descent Thus accommodated , we descended the mountain with such rapidity , that in an hour a of we reached Limon , which is the native pl ce almost all the muleteers who transport merchandize from Nice to Coni

. f for and Turin Here we waited ull two hours the mules ,

o which travelled with the servants by the common road . T of f each the coulants we paid orty sols , which are nearly i l l . in equa to two sh l ings sterling Leaving Limon , we were two hours quite disengaged from the gorges of the moun

are a tains , which partly covered with wood and pastur ge, f m though altogether inaccessible, except in summer ; but ro the foot of the Col de Tende the road lies through a plai n all the way to Turin . We took six hours to travel from the inn where we had lodged over the mountain to Limon , and f five hours from thence to Coni . Here we ound our bag had off a one da f gage , which we sent by the c rriers y be ore f m our we departed ro Nice ; and here we dismissed guides , ou for together with the mules . In winter, y have a mule this w hole journey at the rate of twenty livr es : and the guides are of v a- paid at the rate two li res day , reckoning six days ,

for for to three the journey to Coni , and three their return i . out n to Nice We set early in the morning, order avoid TRAVEL S THROUGH F RANCE AND I TALY . 543 the inconveniencies and dangers that attend the passage of f f this mountain . The first o these ar ises rom your meeting of a th e with long strings lo ded mules in a slippery road, of f i breadth which does not exceed a oot and a half. As t is altogether impossible for two mules to pass each other in a or such a n rrow path , the muleteers have made doublings ff of elbows in di erent parts , and when the troops mules meet, the least numerous is obliged to tur n off into on e of these the doublings , and there halt until others are past . Travel d r l th e lers , in order to avoid this isag eeable de ay , which is n the more vexatious, considering the excessive cold, begi of a f the ascent the mountain e rly in the morning, be ore mules quit their inns . But the great danger of travellin g here when the sun is up proceeds from wh at they call th e f v alan ches . These are balls o snow detached from the

a of the mountains which overtop the ro d , either by the heat or of of s sun , the humidity the weather . A piece snow thu f or loosened rom the rock , though perhaps not above three f f in o in to our eet diameter, increases s metimes its descent a s such a degree to become two hundred paces in length , and rolls down with such rapidity , that the traveller is crush a f on ed to de th be ore he can make three steps the road . These dreadful heaps drag every thing along with them in

t . heir descent They tear up huge trees by the roots, and , if fa f they chance to ll upon a house, demolish it to the ound

of in ation . Accidents this kind seldom happen the winter while the weather is dry ; and yet scarce a year passes i n which some mules and their drivers do not peris h by the va

. f u C f lanches At Coni we ound the Co ntess rom Nice, who had m ade the same journey in a ch air carried by port

- of ers . This is no other than a common elbow chair wood ,

- with a straw bottom , covered above with wax cloth , to pro

e a f or w h te t the tr veller rom the rain sno , and provided wit

f - f . a oot board , upon which the eet rest It is carried like a sedan chair ; and for this purpose six or eight porters are employed at the rate of three or four livres ahead per day ,

for . according to the season , allowing three days their return

Of t six - n o r i e hese men , two are betwee the p les car ying l k 54445 S A N D TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE ITALY .

of i common chairman , and each these s supported by the on e h other two , at eac hand ; but as those in the middle t sustain the greatest burden , they are relieved by the O hers

in . a a regular rotation In descending the mount in , they

on in a f m n carry the poles their shoulders , and that c se our e

one a . are employed , at e ch end At Coni you may have a chaise to go with the sam e e for h ou f hors s to Turin , whic y pay fi teen livres , and are a

f on w a . in day and a hal the y You may post it , however , on e s ols er day , and then the price is seven livres ten . p post, and ten sols to the postillion . The method we took was that of ca mbiatur a . This is a chaise with horses shifted at th e same stages that are used in posting ; but as it is supposed r to move slower, we pay but five liv es per post, and ten sols

. In r to the postillion orde to quicken its pace, we gave ten a i for r atifica sols extraordin ry to each post llion , and this g f are tion he drove us even aster than the post . The chaises

of and on two like those Italy , will take near hundred weight of baggage . h Coni is situated between two small streams , and, thoug for neither very large nor populous , is considerable the e s trength of its fortifications . It is honoured with the titl f be of the Maiden ortress , because , though several times of It: s ieged , it was never taken . The prince Conti invested i n of 1 44 the war 7 , but he was obliged to raise the siege ,

G f h av in of a . a ter g g iven battle to the king S rdinia The place l f L eutrum was ga lantly de ended by the Baron , a German

a : protestant, the best general in the Sardini n service but what contributed most to the miscarri age of the enemy was

of a long track heavy rains , which destroyed all their works, and rendered their advances impracticable . I need not tell you that Piedmont is one of the m ost fertile and agreeable countries in Europe, and this the most agree

of dis ad able part Piedmont , though it now appeared to vantage from the rigorous season of the year : I shall only l observe , that we passed through Sabel ian , which is a con

id rable . s e town , and arrived in the evening at Turin We entered this fine city by the gate of Nice, and, passing

5 46 R S N T AVEL THROUGH FRA CE AND ITA LY.

of a so swelled by the melting the snow on the mountains , s to be imp assable by any wheel carri age ; an d therefore the

c r to b at the oach emained at Antibes , which we went y w er, a distance being bout nine or ten miles . This is the Anti

' of a built like polis the ncients , said to have been Nice , by f m a l it a colony ro M rseilles . In all probabi ity , however,

w as a a f of e l ter th n the oundation Nice, and took its nam f rom its being situated directly opposite to th at city . Pliny

s wa s f for - fi s r ays , it amous its tunny he y ; and to this circum s a allu d i tance Marti l cs n the following lines .

A n ti oli tani fate r su li h nni . p , o , m fi a t y

E ss em s i Scomb r i n on tibi missa forenI .

f of a At present , it is the rontier France towards It ly , pretty s f f a a Of . trongly orti ied , and g rrisoned by a b ttalion soldiers The town is small and inconsiderable ; but the bason of the

h arbour is surrounded to s e a- ward by a curious bulwark f of ounded upon piles driven in the water, consisting a wall , f in ramparts , casemates , and quay . Vessels lie very sa e this harbour but there is not water at the entrance of it to Of S f far off admit hips o any burden . The shallows run so f m of f ro the coast , that a ship orce cannot lie near enough

t o batter the town ; but it was bombarded in the late war. Its chief strength by land consists in a small quadrangular

f f of i n ar ort , detached rom the body the place, which , a p

.ticular of . manner, commands the entrance the harbour The wall of the town built in the sea ha s embrasures and s on r of n be aliant angles, which a g eat number canno may

mounted . I think the adjacent country is much more pleasant than that o n the side of Nice : and there is certainly no essential ff en di erence in the climate . The ground here is not so

c a a in umbered ; it is l id out in greeable inclosures , with

terv als of an d open fields , the mountains rise with an easy f on the ascent at a. much greater distance rom the sea , than f s o o ba . ther side the y Besides , here are charming ride

h . we along the beach , whic is smooth and firm When in of passed the last week April , the corn was then in ear ; t he cherries were almos t ripe ; and the figs had begun to TRAVELS THR OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 547

a on blacken . I had emb rked my heavy baggage board a S London hip , which happened to be at Nice , ready to sail

for our or a a a as small trunks portm nte us , which we c rried

a h r long with us , t ey we e examined at Antibes ; but the

f l e ceremony was per ormed very superficial y , in consequenc

of a h f- a - w on tipping the se rcher wit hal crown , which is a r f l i n de u concili at or at all the bureaus this country .

la a t a l a We y C nnes , a neat vi lage , ch rmingly situated n of th e o the beach the Mediterranean , exactly Opposite to

a are . isles Marguerites , where st te prisoners confined As

a re e there some good houses in this place , I would rather liv

for a of at here the s ke the mild climate , than either Antibes

or . a n or Nice Here you are not cooped up within w lls , crowded with soldiers and people ; but are already in the u l co ntry , enjoy a fine air, and are wel supplied with all s orts of fish . of E s terelles on e of f The mountain , which in my ormer letters I described as a most romantic and noble plantation of - at ever greens, trees , shrubs, and aromatic plants, is present quite desolate . Last summer, some execrable vil I lains set fire to the pines , when the wind was high . t

for a d confla ration continued burning months , n the g ex

n a tended above ten leagues , consuming a incredible qu ntity f on of o timber . The ground is now naked each side the or of road , occupied by the black trunks the trees .which f have been scorched without alling . They stand as so many of of n monuments the judgment heaven , filli g the mind t a f f wi h horror and compassion . I could h rdly re rain rom n shedding tears at this dismal spectacle , whe I recalled the

~ wh idea of at it was about eighteen months ago . h of As we staid all nig t at Frejus , I had an opportunity

n a viewing the amphitheatre at leisure . As e r as I p an judge

he it of of ismes by t eye , is the same dimensions with that N

a f but shockingly dilapidated . The stone se ts rising rom the

l a l the arena are stil ext nt, and the ce ls under them where

a o wild beasts were kept . There re likewise the remains f t wo one an d m or a galleries , over another two vo itoria, gre t of t e gateways , at opposite sides h arena, which is now a fine 548 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY .

' of : th e green , with a road through the middle it but all

external architecture and the ornaments are demolished . The most entire part of the w all now constitutes part of a

of a to monastery , the monks which , I am told , h ve helped

‘ m a for destroy the a phithe tre , by removing the stones their o wn of s purposes of building . In the n eighbourhood thi a ta the ' w alls th e mphitheatre , which s nds without , are vestiges of a a the im an Old edifice, s id to h ve been palace where the

rat r r f a pe o o president resided : or it was a Rom n colony ,

fa a a a of much voured by Julius C esar , who g ve it the n me ulii nd ll a a Foro ulien sis . a Forum J , a Civit s j In prob bility,

was i the a an d it he who bu lt amphithe tre , brought hither

r a f of Cia n e b of the wate ten le gues rom the river g , y means

of on th e an aqueduct , some arcades which are still standing f f other side o the town . A great number of statues were ound

a e in this pl ce , together with ancient inscriptions , which hav ou been published by different authors . I need not tell y

fa - in - law of that Julius Agricola , the ther Tacitus , the his a a of i now tori n , was native Frejus , wh ch is a very poor

inconsiderable place . From hence the country Opens to the

f f a s ea le t, orming an extensive pl in between the and the

m of ountains , which are a continuation the Alps , that

u au . stretches thro gh Provence and D phine This plain ,

watered with pleasant streams , and varied with vineyards ,

- ff os corn fields , and meadow ground , a orded a m t agreeable our u of prospect to eyes , which were acc stomed to the sight

s in corching sands , rugged rocks , and abrupt mountains , the n f h a eighbourhood o Nice . Althoug this has much the p earan ce of p a corn country , I am told it does not produce

e for of obli nough the consumption its inhabitants , who are g e d f to have annual supplies rom abroad , imported at Mar

s . a t a n eilles A Frenchman , average, eats three times the of a of : and quantity bre d , that satisfies a native England , i f f ff o f . ndeed , it is undoubtedly the sta his li e I am there ore

r P rov e n x of surp ised, that the gau do not convert part their

n a : fo m a of Vi ey rds into corn fields r, they y boast their wine as they please ; but that which is drank by the common e not of p ople, only here, but also in all the wine countries

0 S T A N D T 55 TRAVEL HROUGH FRANCE I ALY.

c . of on e of our f a en essible Captain E rigates , l tely

t r ed e the harbour with a contrary wind , which , by obliging affor of e him to tack , ded an opportunity sounding the whol

a breadth and length of the passage . He c me in without a of h pilot, and made a pretence buying cordage , or som e ot er s tores ; but th e French officers were much chagrined a t th e

boldness of his enterprise . They alleged that he came for no other reason but to soun d the channel ; and that he h ad an

e a a of the ngineer bo rd , who made drawings the land and d a f a an . orts , their be rings dist nces In all probability , these Suspiciou s were communicated to the ministry fo r an order a a h immedi tely rrived , t at no stranger should be admitted i nto the docks an d arsen al .

of a f a Part the ro d rom hence to M rseilles lies through a.

a e of E s terelles vast mount in , which r sembles that ; but is n ot so well covered with wood , though it has the advantage of an agreeable stream running through the bottom .

w as I much pleased with Marseilles , which is indeed a

n . oble city , large , populous and flourishing The streets, for a a the most p rt , are open , airy , and sp cious ; the houses well built, and even magnificent . The harbour is an oval

on n or bason , surrounded every side either by the buildi gs the f land , so that the shipping lies per ectly secure, and here ' f O n i s generally an incredible number o vessels . the city

a a of f side , there is a semicircul r qu y ree stone , which ex

tends thirteen hundred paces ; and the space between this, and f a a the houses that ront it , is continu lly filled with sur

m of of . prising crowd people The galleys , to the nu ber

or are m one of eight nine , moored with their ste s to part th e w f for har , and the slaves are permitted to work their own a t e in benefit their resp ctive occupations, little shops

or for . booths , which they rent a trifle There you see trades

me n of all S one f h kinds itting at work , chained by oot , s oe

m a Si a and akers , t ilors , lversmiths , w tch clock makers , bar

b - l - s criviner s ers , stocking weavers , jewe lers , pattern drawers , ,

l a of . booksel ers , cutlers, and all m nner shopkeepers They

pay about two sols a - day to the king for this indulgence ; l aff od ive well , and look jolly ; and can ord to sell their go s TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 551 and labour much cheaper than other de alers and trades

e n . A t a . m night , however , they are obliged to lie abo rd

f of Notwithstanding the great ace business at Marseilles, their trade is greatly on the decline ; and their merch ants f of a are ailing every day . This decay commerce is in a gre t wi r measure o ng to the English , who, at the peace , pou ed in such a quantity of European merchandize into Martinique and a of a s t Guadaloupe, that when the merch nts M r eilles sen o f o - ver their cargoes , they ound the markets ver stocked , and the for . es were obliged to sell a considerable loss B ides ,

of ff and French colonists had such a stock sugars , co ee, o m n ther commodities lying by the during the war. that, upo the of e off t first notice p ace, they shipped them in grea e of th e q uantities for Marseilles . I am told that the produc islands is at pres ent cheaper here than where it gro ws ; and on the other hand the merchandize of this country sells for

less money at Martinique than in Provence . A who single person , travels in this country , may live at a or a re sonable rate in these towns , by eating at the public dinari es : but I would a dvise all families that come hither

f as as to make any stay, to take urnished lodgings soon they f f can ; or the expense o living a t an hotel is enormous . I was obliged to pay at Marseilles four livres ahea d for every f i for meal , and hal that pr ce my servant , and was charged six livres a day besides for the apartment ; so that our daily

f a expense, including break ast and a valet de pl ce, amounted ’ oui d l t o two l ore s . The s am e imposition prevails a l over of the south France , though it is the cheapest and most f f o . plenti ul part the kingdom Without all doubt , it must f of be owing to the olly and extravagance English travellers ,

a fleece d who have llowed themselves to be without wincing , n until this extortio is become authorized by custom . It is

in of be very disagreeable riding the avenues Marseilles ,

cause you are confined in a dusty high - road ; crowded with

c of the arriages and beasts burden , between two white walls , f reflection rom which , while the sun shines, is intolerable . But in this neighbourhood there is a vast number of plea

s c - s to ant ountry houses, called bastides, aid to amount T A N D TRAVELS HROUGH FRANCE I TALY .

of fur twelve thousand , some which may be rented , ready nis he d a a a , at very reasonable price . M rseilles is gay city , a nd the inh abitants indulge themselves in a variety of amuse m ents . They have assemblies , a concert spiritual , and a

. comma or a comedy Here is also a spacious , walk , sh ded w t ith trees , to which , in the evening , there is a great resor of well dressed people . f f Marseilles being a ree port, there is a bureau about hal

f on all s a league rom the city the road to Aix , where carriage

u if a n is ndergo examination and y thing contraband , f ound , the vehicle, baggage , and even the horses , are con fi h sca ted . We escaped this disagreeable ceremony by t e a f a t s o our . f ag city driver O his own accord , he declared a of ff e the bureau , th t we had bought a pound co ee and som

s a a t a i and a ug r M rse lles , were ready to p y the duty , which a a mounted to about ten sols . They took the money , g ve h im f a receipt, and let the carriage pass without urther

question . I proposed to stay one night only at Aix : but Mr A who f f is here, had ound such benefit rom drinking the waters , that I was persuaded to make trial of them for eight or ten

d . I n ays have accordingly taken private lodgi gs , and drank them every mornin g at the fountain head ; not without find

a a ing consider ble benefit . In my next , I sh ll say something

f of am f a not urther these waters , though I a r id they will s ufficren t prove a source of much entertainment . It will be for me to find them contribute in any degree to the health of s tr , dear , yours assuredly .

LETTER XL.

DE A R DOC TOR oulo ne I l a 23 1 765 . , B g , l y ,

I F O U N D f d three English amilies at Aix, with whom I coul have passed my time very agreeably ; but the society is now d — fe w issolved . Mr S re and his l ady left the place in a

f ~ a days a ter we arrived . Mr A r and L dy Betty are gone to Geneva ; and Mr G r with his family remains ~ t A ix. m s a This gentleman , who laboured under a o t dread

55 4‘ S TH ROUGH R N TRAVEL F A CE AND ITALY.

tel of , they think he is some plebeian unworthy any particular

attenti on . A ix a is situated in a bottom , lmost surrounded by hills,

f or which , however, do not screen it rom the Bize, north w a the ind , that blows extremely sh rp in winter and spring, air a rendering the lmost insupportably cold , and very dan g erous to those who have some kinds of pulmonary com

s or of . plaints , such as tubercule , abscesses , spitting blood o H a of a s L rd who passed p rt l st winter in thi place, aff of licted with some these symptoms , grew worse every day while he continued a t Aix : but he no sooner remo ved t o Marseilles th an all his complaints abated ; such a dif f of e a h erence there is in the air th se two pl ces , t ough the dis e or tanc e between them does not exce d ten twelve miles . B ut

of a the air M rseilles, though much more mild than that of

a of Aix in the winter , is not ne r so warm as the climate Nice, w n f and here we find in ple ty such flowers , ruit, vegetables, e a ven in the severest se sons , as will not grow and ripen even

r i n Marseilles o Toulon .

If of is the air Aix is disagreeably cold in the winter, it ff f r endered quite insu erable in the summer, rom excessive h f eat , occasioned by the reflection rom the rocks and moun t of ains , which at the same time obstruct the circulation air for a a it must be observed , that the s me mount ins which serve

s f n and s a u nels and canals , to collect discharge the keen bla ts

of l f winter, wi l provide screens to intercept entirely the aint

of . h breezes summer Aix , though pretty well provided wit ’ - and butcher s meat, is very ill supplied with pot herbs ; they ‘ f m have no poultry , but what comes at a vast distance ro f Lionn ois . o the They say their want roots , cabbage, cauli f h f Sac. n t o lower , is owi g to a scarci y water ; but the trut

oil a is , they are very bad gardeners . Their is good and che p ; their wine is indifferent ; but their chief care seems employ on of a of ed the culture silk , the st ple Provence, which is a of or everywhere sh ded with plantations mulberry trees , f be the nourishment of the worms . Notwithstanding the ast ed cheapness of every article of housekeeping in the south of n f l f Fra ce, I am persuaded a amily may ive or less money S TRAVEL THROUGH FRANCE A N D ITALY . at a f t of York, Durh m , Here ord , and in many o her cities a at A ix f Engl nd , than in Provence ; keep a more plenti ul

and f . table, be much more com ortably situated in all respects f I ound lodging and provisions at Aix fifty per cent . dearer i in than at Montpell er, which is counted the dearest place

Languedoc .

of Ai x fa s The baths , so mou in antiquity , were quite de molis he d by the irruptions of the barbarians . The very s of of ource the water was lost , till the beginning the present

a century , (I think the ye r when it was discovered

for f u a of by accident, in digging the o nd tion a house, at f a f o a . e the oot a hill , just without the city w ll Near the s m

a f a a u of pl ce was ound a sm ll stone alt r, with the fig re a

a Priapus , and some letters in c pitals , which the antiquari

ans ff . have di erently interpreted From this figure, it was s upposed that the waters were effi cacious in cases of barren

n . w f ess I t was a long time, ho ever, be ore any person would

as venture to use them internally , it did not appear that

re- a they had ever been drank by the ancients . On their p

earance for s p , they were chiefly used baths to horse , and

had other beasts which the mange, and other cutaneous

a m e ruptions . At length poor people began to b the in the for d f m the same isorders , and received such benefit ro them , as attracted the attention of more curious inquirers . A very f superficial and imper ect analysis was made and published, with a fe w remarkable histories of the cures they had per f ff of ormed , by three di erent physicians those days ; and those little treatises , I suppose encouraged valetudinarians f to drink them without ceremony . They were ound service

in. S a able the gout, the gravel , curvy, dropsy , p lsy , indi

h fa gestion , asthma, and consumption ; and t eir me soon f extended itsel all over Languedoc , Gascony , Dauphine , m and Provence . The agistrates , with a View to render them

f a more use ul and commodious , have r ised a plain building,

of in which there are a couple private baths , with a bed

chamber adjoining to each , where individuals may use them

and for . both internally externally , a moderate expense ar and These baths e paved with marble, supplied with 556 S TH RO UGH N TRAVEL FRA CE AND ITA LY .

water, each by a large brass cock , which you can turn at

’

. A t on e of pleasure end this edifice, there is an octagon ,

a t a h Open top , having bason , wit a stone pillar in the mid

a f a dle , which disch rges water rom the s me source, all round, by eight small brass cocks and hither people of all rank s

of a r come a morning , with their gl sses , to drink the wate , or a or w sh their sores , subject their contracted limbs to the

. e o d uche stream This last op rati n , called the o , however; ff a th is more e ectu lly undergone in the private bath , where e

a o f Stre m is much more p wer ul . The natural warmth of this w at e as f m a er, as n arly I can judge ro recollection , is bout

’ the same degree of temperature w ith that in the Q ueen s

a . rf a s a bath , at B th , in Somersetshire It is pe ectly tr n p rent,

a a a b a sp rkling In the gl ss , light and greea le to the t ste, and ma an a a y be drank without y prep ration , to the qu ntity of f three or our pints at a time . There are m any people at

A i x who swallo w fourteen h alf- pin t glasses every morning d t e as of h h uring h se on , which is in the month May , t oug

it may be taken with equal benefit all the year round . It e e a an ff has no sensibl Op r tion but by urine, e ect which pure

l if a the a . water wou d produce , dr nk in same qu ntity If we may believe those who h ave published thei r experi m nor ents, this water produces neither agitation , cloud ,

a of alcalies i e ch nge colour , when mixed with acids , , t nctur f f o o or of . re galls , syrup violets , solution silver The

s idue f a and r ff a , a ter boiling , ev poration , filt ation , a ords

r o of a a very small p oporti n purging salt , and c lcareous e rth ,

which last fer ments with strong acids . As I had neither hydrometer nor thermometer to ascertain the weight and

of a n warmth this w ter, nor time to procure the proper ute sils

a a n eces to m ke the prepar tions, and repeat the experiments sary to exhibit a complete analysis , I did not pretend to

' thi s roces s f enter upon p ; but contented mysel with drinking, an d d uche f bathing, using the o , which per ectly answered a d u my expect tion , having in eight ays almost cured an gly h for m of scorbutic tetter, whic had some ti e deprived me the u se of my right hand . I observed that the water , when used e ft a of O on the xternally, le alw ys a kind ily appearance

558 TRAVEL S THROUGH FRANCE AND I TALY.

n a e You know Avigno is a l rge city belonging to the pop .

’ A ven zo a va r um of a and It was the C the ncients , changed ma a m n a sters sever l ti es , belo ging successively to the Rom ns ,

m of of Burgundians , Franks , the kingdo Arles , the counts

and of a . Provence, the sovereigns N ples It was sold in the f t a . o o e fourteenth century by Queen J ne I Naples , Pop

for of florins Clement VI . the sum eighty thousand , and,

o h as of th e since that peri d , continued under the dominion Cre ui th e of . a see Rome Not but th t when th e duc de q ,

a in 1 662 French mbassador , was insulted at Rome , the year ,

h e of a a th e t parliament Provence p ssed an rret , declaring

of Ve n ais sin a of an city Avignon , and the county , p rt the cient domain of Provence ; and therefore reunited it to the of crown France , which accordingly took possession ; though i t was afterwards restored to the Roman see at the peace of

a Pisa . The pope , however , holds it by precarious title, at

of on e the mercy the French king , who may day be induced

m - e a of . to r su e it , upon p yment the original purchase money As a succession of popes resided here for the space of seventy f years , the city could not ail to be adorned with a great

of a . number m gnificent churches and convents , which are

a richly embellished with p inting , sculpture , shrines , reliques ,

. m a of a and tombs A ong the l st , is that the celebrated L ura , for whom Petrarch has immortalized by his poetry , and

. of a a whom Francis I Fr nce, took the trouble to write n

- f the epitaph . Avignon is governed by a vice legate rom

of a . pope , and the police the city is regul ted by the consuls

a a f f a It is a l rge place , situ ted in a ruit ul pl in; surrounded

of on by high walls built hewn stone , which the west side are washed by the Rhone. Here was a noble bridge over

n ow in . O n the river, but it is ruins the other side , a branch of the Sorgue runs through part of the city . This is a a Sul a f fa s the river nciently c lled g , ormed by the mou f u a of a h o nt in V ucluse in this neig bourhood , where the poet

a a Petr rch resided . It is a charming tr nsparent stream , abounding with excellent trout and cray fish . We passed

on our w a Am a s io over it a stone bridge , in y to Orange , the Ca va r um of i e the Romans, st ll distinguished by some nobl TRAVEL S THR OUGH FRANCE AND ITALY. 559

of . e e of e ~ monuments antiquity Th s consist a circus, an aqu

o trium h al ‘ arch was c t du t , a temple , and a p , which last ere ed ' i n of a a Luctatius f r honour C ius M rius and Catullus , a te the great victory they obtained in this country over the Cim

an d . a bri Teutones It is a very m gnificent edifice, adorned on in a The all sides with trophies and battles b sso relievo . o a of th e c won rn ments architecture , and the s ulpture, are d erfully elegant for the time in which it w as erected ; and

o r at the whole is surprisingly well preserved , c nsidering its g e e f th antiquity. It seems to me to be as entir and pe r ect as e m a rch of Septi ius Severus at Rome . Next day we passe d

r . he two ve y impetuous streams , the Drome and the Isere T

' c muc h Tés e mble s the Var f but first , whi h very , , we orded ;

s a s a on the I ere we crossed in a boat , which , well as th t up tra ille o r the Durance , is managed by the , a moveable run n on ing pully , a rope stretched between too wooden machines f i ce erected o n the Opposite sides o the river . The contr van

a nd ff a and a a f a n d is simple e ectu l , the pass ge eq u lly sa e The e . xpeditious boatmen has nothing to do , but, by e of lo as m ans a ng m sy rudder, to keep the head obliquely the the f of the to stream , orce which pushes the boat along, block to which it is fixed sliding upon the rope from one

side to the other . All these rivers take their rise from the m and ra ountains, which are continued through Provence Da f of e e n phine, and all into the Rhone ; and all th m, wh e u sw lled by s dden rains , overflow the flat country . Although

’ D ff d or no Oil c ne / auphine a or s little , it produ es excellent wi s, a of an d r i fi t of particul rly those Hermitage Cote ot . The rs h i s on for t ese sold the spot three livres the bottle , and the

for o other two . The c untry like wise yi elds a considerable n of f w o . a q ua tity corn , and a g ood deal grass It is well d tere r a . with streams , and ag eeably sh ded with wood The

n o f weather was pleasa t , and we had a continued song night in ale s f g rom Aix to Fountainbleau .

f of V a n I cannot pretend to speci y the antiquities ienne, ientl c Al lobr o um . was a y called Vienna g I t Roman colony ,

.thc a n o a s and a considerable city , which ancients sp red p in a nd expense to embellish . It is still a large town standing 560 R S A N D T AVEL THROUGH FRANCE ITALY.

on of among several hills the banks the Rhone, though all its f ormer splendour is eclipsed , its commerce decayed , and m of ost its antiquities are buried in ruins . The church of

‘ a Notre D me de la Vie was undoubtedly a temple . On the

f of a of le t the ro d , as you enter it , by the gate Avignon ,

l or a there is a handsome obe isk , rather pyr mid , about thirty f f eet high , raised upon a vault supported by our pill ars of the Tuscan order . It is certainly a Roman work , and

f a n Mont aucon supposes it to be tomb, as he perceived a o out f of a in blong stone jetting rom the middle the v ult , a of f which the shes the de unct were probably contained .

of a The story Pontius Pilate , who is s id to have ended his d i n f . d a of ur ays this place, is a able On the seventh y o

f A ix sh all a journey rom , we arrived at Lyons , where I t k e of for my leave you the present, being with great truth , 8t e . yours,

LET TER XLI .

DE AR I R o lo u S u ne J ne 1 3 1 5 . , B g , , 7 6

I AM at last in a Si tuation to indulge my view with a sight of f of a ou Britain , a ter an absence two ye rs ; and indeed y cannot im agine wh a t plea sure I feel while I survey the whit e

ff of ff cli s Dover at this distance . Not that I am at all a ected

' w by the a cacia qua dulcedine a id lzs s oli of Horace . That seems to be a kind of fanaticism founded on the prejudices of a education , which induces Laplander to place the ter res tri al of s paradise among the snows Norway , and a Swis to prefer the barren mountains of Solleur e to the fruitful m of . a plains Lombardy I attached to my country , because

a of i : it is the l nd l berty , cleanliness , and convenience but l of I love it sti l more tenderly , as the scene all my interest c of f for ing conne tions , as the habitation my riends , whose

a convers tion , correspondence , and esteem , I wish alone to

Our journey hither from Lyons produced neither accident nor adventure worth notice ; but abundance of little vex,

ation s of . , which may be termed the plagues posting At

56 2 T S T N A N RAVEL HROUGH FRA CE D I TALY .

a th duke nswered his letter, promising to give orders that e

a S : and of f griev nce hould be redressed never thought it a ter. Ano ther great inconvenience which a ttends posting in France

if ou in is , that you are retarded by any accident , y cannot , in an of y parts the kingdom , find a lodging, without per h aps travelling two or three posts farther th a n you would of the choose to go , to the prej udice your health , and even

a of f w on of r haz rd your li e ; hereas , any part the post oad in e b n at England, you will m et with tolera le accommodatio

e a . of in very st ge Through the whole south France, except

a large cities , the inn s are cold , damp , dark , dism l , and dirty ; the landlords equ ally disobliging and rapacious ;

a f the the servants awkw rd , sluttish , and sloth ul ; and postil

. If lions lazy , lounging , greedy , and impertinent you

‘ for l a chide them lingering, they wi l continue to del y you : if ou m the longer y chastise the with sword , cane , cudgel ,

Or - d an d e horse whip , they will either isappear entirely , leav or h you without resource , t ey will find means to take ven

g ean ce by overturning your carriage . The best method I w of a of f kno tr velling with any degree com ort , is to allow

f of yoursel to become the dupe imposition , and stimulate a ifi their ende vours by extraordinary grat cations . I laid down a resolution (an d kep t it) to give no more than four

and - twenty sols per post between the two postillions but I

n ow a for am persu ded , that three pence a post more, I u a e u sho ld h ve b en much better served , and sho ld have per We formed the journey with much greater pleasure . met t with no adventures upon the road worth reciting . The firs d ay we were retarded above t wo hours by the duchess He son R—f—t D , and her the duc de , who , by virtue

of an f m order ro the minister, had anticipated all the horses if his . e at the post They accost d my servant , and asked master was a lord ? He thought proper to answer in the af fi rmativ e ; upon which the duke declared he must certainly b e of n es Fre ch extraction , inasmuch as he observed the lili an of France in his arms on the coach . This young noblem

s poke a little English . He asked whence we had come ; and w to w understanding e had been in Italy, desired kno S unove n R I T 56 TRAVEL r F ANCE AND ALY. 3 whether the man liked France or Italy best ? Upon his giv i n f him on g France the pre erence, he clapped the shoulder, i and said he was a lad of good taste . The duchess asked f son and her spoke English well , seemed mightily pleased when any man assured her he did . They were much more free and condescending with my servant than with myself ; for w m e , , though saluted the in passing, and were even sup os of not h p ed to be persons quality , they did open t eir lips while we stood clos e by them at the inn door till their horses w ere changed . They were going to Geneva ; and their equi s of page consi ted three coach es and six, with five domestics

a a . - wo horseb ck The duchess w as a tall , thin , raw boned

man w . , ith her head close shaved This delay obliged us to lie t of b two posts shor Macon , at a solitary au erge called the Maison Blanche, which had nothing white about it but

i a name . The L onnois is one of the most agree ble and best c f l ultivated countries I ever beheld , diversi ied with hi l , dale,

w out - delds i h wood , and ater, laid in extensive corn and r c m ad l h h e ows , wel stocked wit black cattle ; and adorned wit a of a surprising number towns , vill ges , villas , and convents, a a on of s o gener lly situ ted the brows gently swelling hills , that they appear to the greatest advantage . What contri of Mac butes in a great measure to the beauty this , and the c Soame fr the onnis, is the charming pastoral , which , om c of h ity Chalons winds its silent course so smoot and gentle, It that one can scarce discern which way its current flows . is this placid appearance that tempts so many people to of s bathe in it at Lyons , where a good number individual are : a of drowned every summer where s , there is no instance ’ an of it y person s thus perishing in the Rhone , the rapidity t deterring every body from bathing in its stream . Next nigh f the we passed at Beaune, where we ound nothing good but

w for f . ine , which we paid orty sols the bottle At Chalons our - fi axle tree took re ; an accident which detained us so long, that it was ten before we arrived at Auxerre where we lay . h ad In all probability we must have lodged in the coach , not a f r for t wo we been content to t ke our ho ses, and pay six, s c s e posts u ce sively . The alternative was , either to proce d 564 TR S T AVEL HROUGH FRAN CE A N D ITALY .

f on or with our those terms , stay till the other horses should I f . n come in and be re reshed such an emergency , I would a f and l advise the tr veller to put up with the our, he wil find

a the postillions so much upon their mettle, th t those stages will be performed sooner than the others in which you have f the ull complement . There was an English gentleman laid up at Auxerre with i ff a broken arm , to whom I sent my compl ments, with o ers of service ; but his servant told my man that he did not choose

an d for to see any company , had no occasion my service . of i This sort reserve seems pecul ar to the English disposition . When two natives of any other country ch ance to meet ’ f abroad , they run into each other s embrace like old riends , even though they h ave never heard of on e another till that in t moment ; whereas , two Englishmen the same situa ion difli den ce maintain a mutual reserve and , and keep without ’ of the sphere each other s attraction , like two bodies endowed

.W e n with a repulsive power . only stopped to cha ge horses

at of Dijon , the capital Burgundy , which is a venerable old

of da city ; but we passed part a y at Sens, and visited a ma fa of a ff l w nu cture th t stu we cal Manchester velvet, hich

and f e is here made dyed to great per ection , under the dirc

i of a f t on English workmen , who h ve been seduced rom their

own . a country At Fount inbleau , we went to see the palace, or a an , as it is c lled , the castle, which , though irregular

of aff a a of pile building, ords a gre t de l lodging , and con

e n a a of tains s r e very noble ap rtments , p rticularly the hall ’ a h udience, with the king s and queen s chambers, upon whic the orn aments of carving and gi lding are lavished with pro fu a sion r ther than propriety . Here are some rich parterres of flowe r- a and a g rden , noble orangerie, which , however,

did f a a we not greatly admire , a ter h ving lived mong the

a a of n tural or nge groves Italy . Hitherto we had enjoyed f f a fine summer weather, and I ound mysel so well , th t I im agined my health was entirely restored : but betwixt

a u a nd a Fount inblea P ris , we were overtaken by a black

m of a an d stor r in , sleet , hail , which seemed to reinstate winter in all its rigour ; for the cold weather continues to

EGISTE R O F TH E W A R E ATH E R ,

KEPT AT NICE ,

FROM N O VE M E R 1 763 TO M H B , AR C 1 765.

W THERMOMETER S U SED IN K EEP I N G TH E FOLLO IN G R EGI S TER .

O N E of u af the a of Re amur h av merc ry, constructed ter m nner , in on th e s a 1 0 f e at 2 0 g c le degrees rom ice to temp r e , degrees

- - s k h a b a 80 . Th e h a at il worm e t , oiling w ter degrees excessive e t

a 1 0 at 35 . P ris 7 7 , degrees O ne of of o b Ch a a f a a d spirit wine, c nstructed y te uneu , gr du te in h Th e in h h m e a t t e same man ner. spirit t is t er omet r rises S a 38 a c a 30 and in u u eneg l to , in Fr n e very r rely to , Per , nder th e m ab 2 5 . line , very seldo ove Th w a th e h a in a m w h a in a ey ere pl ced in s de , roo it out fire , south erly exposition ; and the ob servations made b etw ee n te n and n h f e leve in t e orenoon .

The of N i a th e b a of b a e town ice is s tu ted in y Anti es , l titud forty- three degrees forty minutes north ; east longitude from

L e - fi ve n di a f ondon , seven degrees tw nty mi utes, equi st nt rom

a a and T h a ab n E i h m . M rseilles , Geno , urin , t t is out inety ngl s iles Th e h i b w th e a it at th e f of nort w nd lo s over m r ime Alps , eet wh h th e w i a e th e h f o m Ca B a the ic to n is s tu t d ; sout r pe on , on a of Ba ba w th e a of Sa i a n d o a in co st r ry, s eeping isl nds rd ni a C rsic its passage ; the e a st fr om th e Riviera of Gen oa ; an d the w est f m ro Provence . Th e town of Nice is w edged betwe en a steep ro ck to th e east w a an d th e P a lion w h ch w a h th e w a u th e w rd , river g , i s es ll pon est , and fa the e r a an w h h ar s of th e r lls into M dite r ne , it in t irty y d corne b a stion .

Thi b ut a a a fe d h fl b the .m i in of s river is sc nty stre m , c ie y y e t g th e w th e a n . It is m m w a a , sno upon mount i s so eti es s elled to gre t

h b u r : b ut in th e umm it us ua dr . dept , y s dden to rents s er is lly y Th i n s r n rr w e of N c s b ui of e a d the a e a o . town i e lt ston , street a a n w h a n inhabi an in w hi h as th e It is s id to cont i t elve t ous d t ts , c c e y b h w f i m h is a e o or th e a s b ut a . T must muc cr ded, pl ce s ll ere b of h a h the P a lion w h h is the e n ra n c fr m ridge t ree rc es over g , ic t e o th e d N i rr n hi id b a w a si e of Provence . ice s su ou ded on t s s e y ll a n d rampart of no strength : O n th e other side it is comm an ded b h h on wh h a a the of an a . w hi h y a ig rock, ic ppe r ruins old c stle c S W 568 REGI TER on THE EATHE R .

w a s n m m nab . It w as a n and d b o ce dee ed i preg le t ke , ismantled y Mar h a Cat i n a in th e i n of Vi A m ad u fa h to th e esc l t , re g ctor e s , t er n To h a w a f h k i h pr esent king of Sardi ia . t e e st rd o t is roc s t e li ar h our of N in w hi h h is h of w a uffi n for ice , c t ere not dept ter s cie t hi f n Th e h i b n ab u a h m s ps o any b urde . lls egi to rise o t s ort ile w Th Var fa h from th e north gate of th e to n . e lls into t e s e a ab out f u m h w a and f da a h i a f ‘ o r iles to t e estw rd ; is or ble t t e v ll ge o S . Lau n w h h an d on th e F h a th e m u h of th e re t , ic st s renc side , ne r o t v Th a b w th e Var and N a u n f . e o ri er sp ce et een ice , is s ccessio a ab m in n a d n w h a a umb of w h h u gree le e e ces, or ed it gre t n er ite o ses, as i ur u d b a a of i a le or c s nes , s ro nde y pl nt tions ol ves , vines , or nges , m n n n h ir f N nd a i n a d . T e a o u a e t o s , citro s ice is p re penetr t g , y m n a dr an d a an d th e sk is m a ab a and ild, ge er lly y , el stic ; y re rk ly cle r

- n . Th e w w a is m h a b ut n ot nw h m an d sere e ell ter ostly rd , u oleso e ; h are m S in b h in th e w n an d hb h h h t ere so e pr gs ot to neig our ood, w ic are in m d and a r ab . surpris gly cool , li pi , g ee le

E WE REGISTER O F TH ATHER .

November 1 76 3.

F m th e 2 3d th e en d fa i w a h h — ro to , r e t er, wind nort erly Morn — — n f E n n har Sun at n n a sk . i gs rosty ve i gs s p oo w rm , y serene m D ece ber.

F w ua and ai w n h . irst eek , sq lls r n , i d sout erly

- F f h b w f h w in u h w . i t , le res , d so t est F m th e fif h th e e nd o th e h fa w a h w ro t to f mont , ir e t er, ind — — Shifting from north to east Stm at noon w arm Mornings and v n n f an d har di an m a w h w e e i gs rosty s p , st t ount ins covered it sno n a an d all rt of a ad nk ul flow ers ra Gree pe se , so s s ll , pi s , roses, j y , nun culas an e mon ies all th e w b w in . , , inter, lo g

January 1 76 4 .

F k ain and al w d u h . irst wee , r squ ls , in so t erly

S n w k w a h u w in d h r . eco d ee , e t er clo dy , sout e ly R m aini a t of the m n h fa w a h a w in e ng p r o t , ir e t er , cle r sky, d h — M ni n an d n i har w on th e a nort e a st or gs eve ngs s p , sno dist nt i h a m in b m . lls, l ond trees losso

Febru ary. m an d m th e l st th e 2 th fi ne w a h a sk , Fro to 5 , e t er, cle r y ild n wa m in th e da w n d a h ar a nd ie rcm In th e i . r y , i e sterly, s p p g even g ‘ S w n m d a h and a ri cots m no o th e distant hills . Al on s, pe c es, p

lossom .

S O F TH E WE 570 REGI TER ATHE R.

1 1 Wind eas ter a fresh breez e fair w eath er afternoon c oud ly , , ; , l y evenin s ome r ain g , . e as ter fair w eather remar ab c ear s k sun warm ly , k ly l y , , ’ E . i w th m ercur a nd s iri ri s e fa r ea er . y p t e thr e d

E . ai w ea h er rees ab ou t noon. s f r t . g

9 S . E . fair w eather e c i s e of th e sun at 9 hour 2 5 min , l p , .

ended at 1 2 hour 2 9 min . its breadth 9 di its 46 g min . eas ter fair w ather ly , e k easter fai r weath er rk abl c ear s sun hot . ly , . y l y,

easter fair w eather . ly , eas ter fai r weath er ly , . eas ter fair w eath e r afternoon ca m and c oud at fi v ly , ; , l l y e,

w ind S a fresh b reez e s r i n in dro s of ra i n . , p kl g p ea ster a most ca m ra in w eathe r ly , l l , y

e as ter a most calm rain . ly , l , south er cloud we ath er sh ow ers afternoon h e av rain m er ly . y , ; y , cur and s irit fe l two d e ree s s now u on the di s tant h i y p l g p lls . 1 0 7 souther fair w eather afternoon b ows fresh ai r co d ; ly . ; , l , l

h e av rai n in th e ni h t snow on th e hi s . y g , ll i i 7 n orth e r h eav sh ow er s i n th e mornin at noon b ows ly , y g ; , l fre sh s k water snow on the hi s , y y , ll

N . W b ow s fresh fair weather sk water . . l , , y y easter fair w eath er ly , .

w ester b ow s fresh fair w eather air shar . ly , l , , p

easter b ows fresh fair w eath er a i r s har . ly, l , , p easter fair w eath er sk c oud i tt e Wi nd i n th e morn ly , , y l y , l l

. W ow h ard at ni in at noon s ua at S . S . b s ht . g ; , q lly l g W r s k c ea r at noon 1 2 S . b ow s fresh fair w eathe ca m 1 7 . l , , y l ; . l at fi ve in th e afternoon s udden s ua s w hich conti n ued , q ll , at s hor t interval s all night

wester b ows fresh clear sk w arm . ly , l , y ,

w es terl b ows fres h c ear sk w arm . y , l , l y , — south er c ea r s k warm itt e wind Oran e h arv es t . ly , l y , , l l g

S. E fai r w eath er s k a i tt e c ou d air sh ar i t e w ind. , y l l l y , p , l tl

easte r fair w ea ther ai r s h ar c ear Sk . ly . , p , l y

eas tei l fai r w ea th er air shar c ear s k . y . , p , l y

eas ter fai r w eath er air shar s now on th e dis tant hi s . ly . , p , ll

eas te r fair w i nd r is es i e th e s ea ' b ree z e in Ja mai ca ly , ; l k , bou h r in and s ubs ides about four or a t nine in t e mo n g , fi ve i n the afternoon .

eas ter ca m and c oud ri e s trawberries wh eat in the 2 6 9 ; ly , l l y ; p ,

ar r e s ev n or ei h t feet h i h . e , y e g g

norther b ows fr es h a ir s h ar about noon , s rin in 2 7 9 ly , l , p ; p kl g s h owers dar c oud w eath e r afte rnoon fair w ea th er , k l y ; , ,

w ind eas ter s now on th e distan t hills . ly,

e aster fair w eather air Sh a r s trawberries in the m ar e . ly , , p k t

as te r fa ir w eather ai r s h ar c ear sk . e ly , , p , l y ea s ter sk c oud s ri nklin rain at noon afternoon and ly , y l y p g

venin fair weathe r wh e at i n th e e ar. e g , ;

te r fair w eath er a ir w arm c ear Sk . ea s ly , , , l y

r fair i d w eather s now sti u on the mountai ns , e as te ly , m l , ll p

clea r Sky .

lv fair w ea th er the mercur i n th e th ermom eter , at four S. . y

n th fternoon ris en to 1 4 c ear sk ri e cherriGS. i e a , ; l y p R S R OF W EGI TE THE EATHE R. 571

1 2 W . W ind S . fair w ather sun warm c ear sk ran e , , l y ; o ge and

‘ l emon trees covered with blossoms . 1 3 eas ter fair w eath er c ear s k mercur continues to rise ly, , l y , y . 3 1 easter fair w eath er sun hot c ear sk som ri fi s . ly , , , l y ; e pe g 1 4 as ter fair weather s un h ot c ear sk e ly , , , l y . 1 4 eas ter fair weath er s un hot clear sk ly , , , y.

easter fair w eather sun hot c ear sk . ly , , , l y 1 1 4 E . oud w eather mi z z in ra S . c in. l y , l g 1 1 3 easter fair weath er clea r sk ly , , y. i s e as er fair w ea h er sk a i tt e cloud ; t ly, t , y l l y . I s l e aster fair weathe r c ear sk s un hot ly , , l y , . 1 1 4 easter fair w eath er c ear sk afternoon c oud some ly , , l y ; , l y , d f rain rops o . 1 1 4 easter sk cloud . ly, y y 1 47 easter sk cloud afternoon some dro s of rain 5 ly , y y ; , p . 1 4 eas ter rain all da h eav showers in th e ni ht ly , y y g . 1 4 W c oud rain in the ni h S . l y g t 1 3 easter c oud ly, l y

easter fair w ea h er sk c oud o ive rees in b ossom . ly , t , y l y l t l i s easterl fair wea th er sk c oud ; y, y l y. eas er fair w eath er c ear sk afternoon th e mercur t ly, , l y , y i t rose to 1 6 , Sp ri to 1 7

1 5 eas ter fair w ea h er clear sk sun hot. ly, t , y ,

1 6 eas er fair wea h er c ea r sk su n hot . t ly, t , l y, i ts eas er fair wea h er c ear sk sun hot um sh ower at t ly, t , l y, ; pl p s even in th e even ing

easter fair weath e r c ear sk sun hot. ly , , l y, ster fair wea th er c ear sk sun h ot in th e afternoon ea ly, , l y , ; , h ercur and s iri t u at 0 d e r e bein th h t e m y p p 2 g e s , g e ea t of silk w orm s

er fair wea her c ear sk s un h ot afternoon c oud . eas t ly, t , l y, ; , l y

e as ter fair weathe r e venin c oud si worms weavin . ly, ; g l y lk g

r fair wea th er s un hot. eas te ly, ,

er fair wea h er at noon a it e rain. eas t ly , t ; , l tl

s ter fair wea he r af ernoon wind s outh er a fresh ea ly , t ; t , ly, al e g .

r fair w ea h er season for w indi n the cocons of s i . easte ly, t ; g lk er um show er at four in the mornin forenoon east ly , pl p g ; ,

fair weathe r .

easter fair weath er evenin c oud . ly , ; g , l y

uther . sk c oud f rnoon S ri n in rain. so ly y l y ; a te , p kl g

e as ter fa ir w eather. ly ,

ea ster fair wea ther . ly ,

e er fair w eather. ast ly ,

ste r fair wea h er ar and u mbs in th e mar e . ea ly, t pe s pl k t

ter fair w eath er . eas ly ,

ter fai r wea her. eas ly, t er fair weather corn r i e east ly ; p . easter fair weather sun ho ly, ,

eas ter fai r wea ther sun h o refres hi n breezes . ly , , g easter fair weather s un ho ly , , ter fair w eather s un hot i fi and a ricots . eas ly , , ; r pe gs p eas er fair wea he sun hot t ly, t r, . S O F TH E W 572 REGI TER EATHER .

Wind eas ter fair w eath er s un h ot vermin roub esome ly , , ; t l . eas ter fai r w ea ther s un h ot removed to a countr h ouse ly , , y , wi thin ha f a ea ue of ice l l g N . 2 0 2 0 eas ter fair w eath er th e two thermometers in the shade ly , , , th e front of th e h ous e ex osed to th e E nd p . a S. E . eas ter s k c oud sun b ut ly, y l y , .

eas ter fair w eath e r s un h ot. ly , ,

eas ter fair w eath er rea t h eat. ly , , g

ster fair weath er s un hot . ea ly , eas ter fair w eather a itt e c oud s un hot refreshin ly , , l l l y, , g

b ree z e .

as terl fair e y , ea s ter fair refreshin breezes ly, g . eas te r fair ly , eas ter fresh a e at th re e in th e afternoon t h r u ly , g l ; , e me c ry i it a 9 h u at th e s r t 2 eat e . p p , e xc ss ive eas ter fair w eather sun ver hot r tu d ly, , y ; e rne to my hous e

at N ice .

easterl fa r y, i warm . easter fai r w eath er ly, , easter fair w eath er s un h ot afternoon um showers ly , , ; , pl p , 1 m ercur fal en to 1 8 - s irit to 1 8 rain in the ni h y l 3 , p ; g t. nor h er c oud evenin sh ow ers t ly , l y ; g , . — e aster fair w eath er s eason for th e anchov sher ly , y fi y .

a ter fair w eath r . e s ly , e

e as ter fair w eath er . ly ,

easter fair w ea h er in the evenin s rin lin rain. ly , t g , p k g

norther cloud . ly, y easter fai r weath er s un hot at ni ht a litt e s rin lin ly , , ; g , l p k g

rai n . f eas er air we athe r sun hot . t ly , ,

eas er fai r w eather s un bot. t ly . . — S . fa ir w eath e r a t noon m ercur rose to 24 . y 5

w ester fair w eath er sun h ot ri e eaches and a es . ly , . ; p p ppl w th s un h t e aster . fai r ea e r o . ly , south er fair w eather sun h ot ly , , .

ea ster s un hot. ly ,

easter fair w ea th er sun hot . ly, ,

e as er sk i tt e c oud . t ly , y l l l y

eas ter fair w ea th er sun hot . ly , , ster fai r weath er sun ver hot ri e wa er me ons from ea ly, , y p t l Anti bes .

aster fair w eather ver h ot . e ly , , y ter fa ir w ea ther ver h ot thunder in the ni h eas ly , , y ; g t. eas ter fair w eather r efresh i n br e ez es a t two in th e a f ly, , g 5 terno n th m ercur ros e to 2 6 . o , e y

eas ter fair w ea th er s un ver hot. ly, , y

eas ter fa ir w eath e r s un hot. ly , ,

e as ter fair w eath er after noon wi nd wes er . ly , ; , t ly eas ter fair w eather s un h ot ly , , .

eas ter fair w eath er su tr . ly , , l y e as ter fair wea th er s un ver hot ri e ra es the mer ly , , y ; p g p ;

cur rose at one to 2 6 th e s iri to 2 5 . y , p t

3 1 2 3 eas er cloud s rin i n showers at noon. t ly, y p kl g

574 R S or TH E W EGI TER EATHER .

Win d sou h r fair w ath er. t e ly , e w es ter fai r w eath ly, er w es ter ver hi h afternoon mercur 20 s iri of wine ly , y g ; , y , p t

1 9 . rain .

eas ter fair w ea h e r. ly , t

e as ter c oud . ly , l y

s outh er fa ir w eath r. ly, e

easte r c oud . ly, l y

eas ter fair w eath er . ly , weste r fair w eath er ly, .

eas ter fair w eath er . ly , eas ter ver hi h fair wea th r ly , y g , e .

eas ter fair w eath er . ly ,

w es ter fa ir w eath er . ly ,

wes ter fai r w eath er . ly,

w ester rai n . ly ,

e aster fair weather s now u on th e moun ai ns . ly , , p t

easter fair w e ath er afternoon wind wes ter er hi h . ly, ; , ly, v y g

w ester fair weath er. ly,

w es ter fai r w eath er . ly ,

easter fair weath er . ly ,

sou h er c oud w eather. t ly, l y eas ter fair w ea ther ly ,

south er fair w eather . ly ,

south r c oud afternoon smal rain vin a e be un. e ly, l y ; , l , t g g h fair W ea ther sout r . e ly ,

fair weath er afternoon c oud some dro s of rain. easterly, ; , l y , p

eas t r fair w ea ther . e ly,

w ter fair w eath er . es ly , wester c oud afternoon sou h wind ni h rain sou h ly, l y ; , t ; g t, , t wi nd very high .

c oud . S . l y u th r rain so e ly , .

w ter c oud . es ly, l y

w ester c oud . ly, l y

eas ter fair w eath er . ly,

eas ter fai r weath er . ly,

eas ter fai r w ea ther . ly ,

eas ter fa ir w eath er. ly,

easter fair w ea h er. ly , t w es ter fair weath er af ernoon mercu Il heav ain ly, ; t , ry é, y r , north erly wind .

norther c oud . ly , l y

north er c ea r sk sh ar air. ly , l y, p

rth r c ear sk . no e ly, l y

ort her sk c oud a ir co d. n ly , y l y, l

d . E . k c oud air co N . s y l y, l

N E . sk c ear air ver shar . . y l , y p

h a . N . sk c ear air ver s r y l , y p E sk c oud air sh ar oil harves be ins . . y l y, p , t g

N . sk ud air co d. y clo y, l m N E . fair w ea her sun w ar . . t ,

arm . i tle Wi nd. N . fair w eath er c ear sk sun w , l y, l t ir th er c ear sk sun warm . N . fa wea , l y, R S or W T EGI TER THE EA HER . 575

Wind N . fair weath er, s un warm .

E . itt e w ind fair weath er sun warm . l l , , W . b ows fresh s k c ud . l , y lo y N . fair w eath er , s un warm.

E c oud in the forenoon : afternoon fair wea ther. l y ,

N . ou cl dy.

. E fair w eath er.

E . c oud l y .

E . fi n w i e eather ; squall s of w nd at night.

N . E fi ne weather

N . fa ir w ea h er a fternoon c oud . t ; , l y

. r in all ni h N miz z ling r ain h eavy a g t.

N . W . rain all da and in th e ni h s now in th e moun ains . y , g t ; t

E . b ows fresh c oud w ith s howers h eav rain in th e ni h . l , l y , ; y g t

N . W . c oud w ith showers at ni h t h eav rain l y , ; g , y

W . rs h v ra in N . c oud showe ea in th e ni ht . l y , y g

N . W d . . clou y

wester c oud a fternoon fair weath er evenin overcas . ly , l y ; , ; g t w ester c oud afternoon and evenin rain ly. l y ; g , .

eas ter heav rain all da and all ni h t. ly, y y g

N . heav ain all da snow on the mountain y r y s .

N . s howers inters ers ed with leams of sunshine h eav , p g ; y

rain in the n ight . eas ter h eav showers afternoon fai r wea h er ly , y ; , t .

e aster fai r weather c ear s k . ly, , l y

N . W . . cloudy

N . fair ea h er ear sk . w t , cl y

E . fair weath er c ear sk . , l y

N . fa ir w ea her clear sk . t , y

N . oud af ernoon fair weather c ear sk . cl y t , , l y

N fair wea h er c ea r sk air sh ar . . t , l y , p

N . fair weather c ear sk air sh ar . , l y , p

oud hi h wind in the ni ht. N . cl y g g

E s ual s and rai n afternoon wind . . q l , y

N . th r W . c a w ea e le r .

N . clear w eath er.

N . fair weath er .

W . ra in i n the forenoon af ernoon fair wea he . ; t , t r

N . fair weather air shar . . p

N . fair weather.

N . fair weath er.

N . . c oud evenin some rain. E l y g , N E hea v rain a nd h under at three in th e mo nin . y t r g ;

forenoon c oud . , l y

N . W fair w eath er air co d . . , l

N fair weath er air co d . . , l

nor her c oud ai r shar . t ly , l y , p

i r in . N . E miz z l ng a

W iz z in rain. N . m . l g

d c oud . N W . w a h r dam an . e t e p l y eas ter c oud dam w eath er rain in the ni h . ly, l y, p ; g t

north er c oud dam wea her. ly, l y , p t eas r ud dam wea her heav rain i n the ni h . te ly, clo y, p t ; y g t 5 6 7 R EGI STE R O F TH E WEATHE R .

5 Wind north er c oud dam w eather h eav rain in ly , l y , p ; y the f ernoon and v ni n a t e e g .

north er fair w eath er . ly,

nor th er c oud . ly , l y

nor th er c oud miz z in rain in th e evenin . ly , l y , l g g eas ter forenoon fa ir w eath er a ftern n c ou ly , , ; oo l dy.

e aster c oud weather. ly , l y

n orth er c oud w eather aftern oon mi z z in rain ly , l y ; , l g . eas ter c oud w eath er rain at noon v rai n all th e ly , l y ; ; hea y afternoon an i h t d n g .

. E d i S . c ou h e av rain w th s ome th u i th e after l y ; y , nder n noon and v e eni ng .

N . c oud afternoon fair we ath er l y , .

N . fa i r w eath er .

N . c oud a fternoon fair weath er l y , .

N . c oud s rin in show er a t n l y p kl g o e in the afternoon . v N . h ea y rain at fou r in th e m orning ; forenoon cloudy m i z z i i n l ng ra n at noo . i E . ra n in th e morning and forenoon

E . c oud w eath er e ams of sunsh i ne in th e afternoon l y ; gl . W N . c oud w eath er m i z z r h l y ; ling ai n in t e afternoon .

e as ter c ear w eath er . ly , l

e as ter c oud with eams of s unshin e . ly , l y , g l easte r h eav rain w ith s ua ls at th ree i n th e mornin ly , y , q l g for enoon c oud afte rnoon and eveni n hea v contin u , l y g , y

ed rain .

eas ter fair w eath er ly , .

N . fai r w eath e r a t ni h t miz zlin showers g , g , E c oud w eath er afternoon and evenin l y g , h eav r i y a n .

’ N . cloud w y eath er .

air sh arp .

eas ter b ows fresh and co d c oud we ather . ly , l l , l y

north er h eav rai n . ly , y

nor th er c oud w eath er afternoon rain. ly , l y ; , E r i w h er ve nin fair a ny eat ; e g .

. fr h h eav rain . N E . b ows es l , y

eas ter fair w eath er . ly ,

N fair w eath er i n th e forenoon c oud in the afternoon . . ; l y fa r w r N ea th e . . i

E . fair w eath er .

c oud afternoon miz z in rain. E . l y ; , l g

h e nei hbourin . W . mi z z i n rain fa l of snow on t N l g , l g g

mountains . -t l r d . a PD N . c ou w r l y —O o t O eas ter c oud and co d . t ly , l y l - m O l n n rain s Oa O e aster , c oud and co d after oo , . c ly l y l

m I. th er mi z z in rain. O M N . mornin s ua c oud w ea , g u a g q lly , l y l L heav rain in the ni ht . c O w N. fair weather evenin rain ; y g 2. g

R r W 78 REGI STE o THE EATHE R .

Wind e as ter fa ir weath er ly,

eas ter fair w eath er eve in hi h wind at est. ly, ; n g , g w

w es ter b ows fresh . ly , l

north er fair weath er fresh breeze. ly , ,

eas ter fair w ea th er ai r shar ly, , p . eas ter fair w eath er air shar ly , , p .

r i . easte c oud . a h a ly, l y r s rp

eas ter fair wea th e r air shar . ly . , p

S. E fair weath er air sh ar . . , p

S. E . fair w eath er air sh ar , p .

e as ter fa ir w ea h er air s h ar . ly, t , p

S E fai r w ea ther a fre sh br ez e air co d . e , l

eas te r fair w ea the r. ly , eas ter fresh b ree z e fair w ea th er evenin ly , , g , at S W W S . fresh breez e fair w ea h er. . . t south er fresh breeze fair w eath e ly , . r.

eas ter fair w eather ai r shar . ly , , p

eas ter oud w ather . ly, cl y e

eas ter fai r w eath er. ly . eas ter fair w ea th er ly, . eas ter cloud and co d af ernoon s rin lin rain a fa l ly , y l t , p k g l

of s now i n th e ni ht on th e moun ains . g . t easter fair w eath er air co d ly, , l

easter fa i r w ea h er a t sh ar . ly , t , p eas te r show er ly s . ter s rin in sh w ers eas ly, p kl g o eas ter at fi ve m th e m ornin a s orm of hunder hai and ly , g , t t , l h eavy rain a fall of s now on the mounta ins

in forenoon c oud . as ter at fou r in the m ornin . r a e ly , g , l y

eas ter rain i n the morni n forenoon c oud . ly, g , l y

E I O OF TH F FTH V LUME .

L E ITH

’ Erinted b O e ardice 8c Th omson. y gl , All