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Mt. Elbrus ski expedition Ski to the highest summit in Europe

7 days - Technical Level 5 - Fitness Level 3 Introduction Elbrus 5642m is the highest mountain in Europe, located in the beautiful Caucasus Mountains. The Caucasus stretch for 880 kilometres from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. They form the physical barrier dividing Europe and Asia, although the whole range lies entirely within the former Soviet Union. The highest and most glaciated part of the Caucasus is the central region, which includes Elbrus, the fifth highest of the Seven Summits. The snowline is higher than in the Alps and the flavour of the climbing is a cross between Alpine and Himalayan. The higher altitudes are extensively glaciated, although the general configuration of the range is less complex than the Alps.

On this expedition you climb the highest, west summit (5,642m) of Elbrus via the nor- mal southern route. Elbrus is an extinct volcano so is conical in shape and has two distinct summits. The western summit is higher and is climbed from a mountain hut (known as the ‘Barrels’) at 3800m. With the right weather conditions, it is a relatively straightforward climb with crampons and ice-axe sometimes necessary on the icy up- per slopes, however with good snow it is possible to ski-tour all the way to the summit with a superb (and long) powder run down.

This is a 7-day ski expedition and ventures right into the heart of the mighty Caucasus Range. Nestled between the Caspian and the Black Sea, it’s a seriously wild place! In May snow conditions are usually excellent and the surroundings are majestic and vir- tually undeveloped. We start with some superb ski in Elbrus ski area before attempting the Elbrus ascent..

Although Elbrus is not a technical peak (less technical than Mont Blanc), it is very stre- nuous and you should be able to ski-tour all day, and be cable of 1300m height gains. However this is a physically demanding tour requiring good fitness and acclimatisation. Typically those that ski Mount Elbrus will already have completed a classic high altitude ski tour such as the Haute Route or Mont Blanc.

On this expedition you will be lead by a Mont Blanc Mountain Guide IFMGA guide. For accommodation we use good quality hotels in the valley, and serviced mountain refuges on the mountain, for the part the accommodation in hotel is half board and the accommodation in mountain refuge is full board.

We will make every endeavour to carry out the itinerary as shown but alterations may have to be made owing to weather and snow conditions.

A snow cat can be taken from the barrels to Postokov rocks on summit day. This takes you about 900m up the mountain and is STRONGLY advised for all teams unless you are very well acclimatised and have excellent fitness. The cost is about €1000 split between the people (8-10 people each snow cat.)

1 2 Itinerary Day 1 Fly to Mineralne Vody via Moscow

Fly to Moscow and on to Mineralnye Vody, just to the north of the Caucasus range. From Mineralnye Vody it is a 3-4 hour journey (180kms) by road into the Baksan val- ley and to the Hotel in Azau 2250m. This will be our base for the program. Overnight in the hotel.

Day 2 Skiing Mt Elbrus ski resort.

We take the new gondola lift system up to the Mir Station at 4000m. Acclimatising off-piste skiing. Overnight in the hotel.

Day 3 From Azau - to Leaprus hut 3912m - Pastukhov’s Rocks 4700m.

We use the new gondola lift system up to the Mir Station at 4000m. From here we transfer our bags to the Leaprus hut and get settled in. These are new Eco-Hut. We usually undertake a short ski tour up + 800m to the Pastukhov’s Rocks 4700m. Overnight in the hut.

Day 4 Acclimatization from Leaprus hut 3912m to 4900m - 5000 m

Acclimatization ascent up +1000m/-1100m to the 5000m where there are spectacu- lar views. Return to the hut. Overnight in the hut.

Day 5 Rest day in the hut

Rest and prepare for the climb. Overnight in the hut.

Day 6 Summit day

Summit day: an early 3am-4am start for the 8-10 hour ascent of Elbrus (5642m). This is a long ascent up vast, windswept ice fields. A snow cat can be taken from the Leaprus hut to 4900m on summit day. This takes you about 700m up the mountain and is STRONGLY advised for all teams unless you are very well accli- matised and extremely fit. The cost is about €1000 split between the people (8-10 people each snow cat). Crampons will be needed to ascend from thesaddle to the summit as it can be steep and icy. Return to the hotel in Azau for a well deserved beer. Overnight in the hotel.

Day 7 Azau - Mineralnye Vody - Home

Return to Mineralnye Vody. Fly to home. 3 PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

4 Duration: 7 days from home to home

Dates: May 2019: 12 - 18; 19 - 25 Minimum level required: Level 5 in Ski Mountaineering ability levels: Advanced Off Piste Skier. Can put turns in through heavier snow and on icy 40dg slopes, but difficult breakable crusts and skiing a fresh track off piste in zero visibility are still somewhat challenging!. Like ly to say: I’ve been skiing ten/twenty years – I’d like to do your ‘……’ tour. Our Advice: you will enjoy our advanced level trips. If you are new to touring – then you could do a Haute Route with a day or two of skills training beforehand (but don’t overlook the physical fitness needed as well). Mileage is the best way to improve your ability level.

Fitness level 3: you do cardiovascular sport 3-4 sessions a week. Ie you get out every weekend, plus 2-3 times midweek. At this level you are happy doing a 5-7 hr hillwalk, 50ml cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally cream crackered. If you are into challenges – then the thought of training to do a 1/2(or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. On a ski tour – you can skin at 300m/hr for 3-4hrs a day (ie 800-1200m of ascent each day).

Groups: 4 - 6 persons per Guide.

Cost: Euro 1550 per person.

What the cost includes: - 7 days guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide. - 3 nights in hotel accommodation in a double room, half-board basis - 2 nights mountain hut accommodation in a shared dormitory bunk, full-board basis - Group transfer from Mineralnye Vody to Azau and from Azau to Mineralnye Vody - All accomodation and transfer for IFMGA Mountain Guide - Group mountaineering equipment such as ropes and other technical equipment - Invitation letter for Russian visa - Local national park fees

What the cost does not include: Further Information Further Information - Airfare to/from Mineralnye Vody - Airfare to/ from Mineralnye Vody for IFMGA Mountain Guide - Cable cars and mechanical uplift. - Cable cars and mechanical uplift for IFMGA Mountain Guide - 3 lunch in the mountain - Lunch in the Valley - 3 lunch in the mountain for IFMGA Mountain Guide - Lunch in the Valley for IFMGA Mountain Guide - Personal climbing equipment (harness, crampons, ice axe, freeride touring ski, etc) - Mountaineering and travel Insurance READ SPECIFIC POINT - Snow cat for the summit day - Snow cat for the summit day for IFMGA Mountain Guide - Excess baggage fees on flight - Visa fees - Items of a personal nature: phone calls, laundry, room service, etc - Optional trips, souvenirs and tips, - Single room upgrades in hotel - Anything not specified

Lip salve Sun block hat Sun : -Head wetOnce with sweat or rain, cottoncoldeasily. and becomesdoes very not dry adjustment according to the weather. Do not wear cotton, especially sweatshirts or jeans. opposed toone layer clothing, of bulky which restrictsmovement and does not allowfor Work on the principal of wearing 3or 4thin layers, which complement each other, as - Clothing Personal climbing equipment: snow for cats summit). the uplift, mechanical customers (Airfare, Lunch in mountain, the lunch in valley, the and cars cable All not costs included referring to mountain the guideto arecharged the Tissues and toiletTissues roll Army knifeSwiss Camera all the towns we visit. Money. Euros and Dollars can be exchangedand there everywhere areATM machines in docs insurance and Passport snacks/ energy bars that you may of the need atweek). the start morning on the way to the days climbing venue, but it’s best to stock up on the other hill A sandwich for your main lunch stop. is(There usually time to buy a sandwich in the Chocolate Dried fruits, salted nuts Energy bars Water bottle Thermos 1lt (essential bottle for the Summit) Headtorch spare - lightweight batteries and carry lt: rucksack the 40/45 -In mountaineeringSki boots 3 pairs socks ski or awarm loop lined pair of mountain socks Further -Feet: Waterproof trousers trousers Softshell light1 layers trousers wear: -Leg Waterproof jacket 1 Primaloftjacket 1 Mid-weight fleece 2 Mid layers layers Base 2 -Top wear: Mitts glovesThermal Light gloves : -Hands InformationSnow/ski goggles Glacier ormountaineering glasses sunglasses Neck scarf/buff Warm hat/balaclava

Personal first aid kit (you need a personal first aid kit to prevent or cure the main ailments, which seem to be: Headache, Blisters, Sunburn): paracetamol, bruphen or aspirin, plasters, compeed for blisters, items of personal preference. -For hut use: Lightweight sleeping bag liner – now compulsory in most huts sleeping bags (sleep limit -18°C) Toothbrush and paste - a mini one is ideal Soap Anti-bacterial hand cleaner Wet wipes – essential to try to maintain hygiene Tissues and toilet roll Earplugs Small light quick dry towel e.g. a Lifeventure Soft fiber towel Book, pack of cards and or Ipod/MP3 player – It’s nice to have something to read or listen to when you are in the huts or to challenge your fellow travelers to a game of card. These items are not essential but if you have space you might appreciate them. - Technical equipment: Freeride touring ski with touring bindings Ski poles-with good size 5cm+ baskets (telescopic poles are not needed) Climbing skins Harscheisen (ski crampons) 2 Velcro ski strap – to keep skis together on your rucksack if we need to carry them Metal snow shovel Avalanche probe Avalanche transceiver Ice axe 55 - 60 cm crampons (12 point. One pair that fit boots reliably. Clip-on crampons are recommended) Helmet Harness (Sit harness with adjustable leg loops. Make sure it is fits over all layers of clothing) 2 Karabiners (screw-gate karabiners) 120cm sling

Hazard Warning - Risk and Your Responsibilities - Please read this section

• Mountain activities include inherent risks. Many argue that these risks are an important Further Information part of the activity, and that some of the reward of climbing and skiing in the mountains is Further Information the successful management of these risks in an inherently dangerous environment. In any case mountain activities are not “safe”, there is always some level of risk.

• As guides, we try to manage risk to acceptable levels. Managing risk to acceptable levels is occasionally very difficult and complex, involving the subjective assessment of many complex and changing variables, and often choosing between multiple “evils”. The difficulty of managing risk is part of what makes mountain guiding a challenging, rewarding, and dangerous career.

• Even if we successfully manage risk to acceptable levels we cannot eliminate it completely. Risk means exposure to hazard; even very low risk still includes some degree of exposure.

• Different individuals have different definitions of “acceptable levels” of risk. Even for a given individual, the acceptable level varies with the rewards of the objective. For example, climbers and skiers on more difficult routes are usually willing to accept higher levels of risk in exchange for the greater rewards offered by achieving the more difficult objective. You

believe to unacceptable. be time, we alsofeel that nobody, including ourselves, should forced be to risks they assume with it. We to may talk you try out of your fear, ifwe think it is unreasonable. But at the same • you need to tell us ifyou fear they may beexceeded. may do so. Because we cannot know in advance what your levels of acceptable risk are, power ifthelevels of risk becomehigher than thoseacceptable to you, or ifyou feelthey • program. arecomfortable, in order to reach thenext hut, or safe placefrom which you can leavethe wish to leave atrip you may need to accept levels of risk higher than those with which you and convincetoyou try of their correctness. Also, ingroup a trip,tour, ski a such as ifyou on than to retrace our steps, but guides, as it is our job to make such determinations, and you) we, too, around. course, Of canturn theparty to sometimes continue it can belessrisky us level high for reasonable the risk is too what think find for guides(or for of we weas If • veto, then it may beoverruled. vetopower. If we, guides as feelthat for it is more thegroup risky to accommodateyour around.then you can turnInguided a the party group, there are some limitations to your have veto power over any objective. If the perceived level of risk becomes too high for you, climber,shouldrecreational or guide client, they be team, climbing any of member Any • if you feel that the risks you are running are not within your definition of acceptability. age (which we do). However, does not mean “usually” “always”, and you need to speak up term exposure to risk means that we need to keep such risk low ifwe want to to survive old our level of acceptable risk is lower than most of our clients. Guiding is our job, and long- expose ourselves. These levels may be higher or lower than yours. We believe that usually, • We, as guides and climbers, also have limits to the levels of risk to which we are willing to need to think about your personal level of acceptable risk for agiven objective. out of your pocket. You should checkwith your insurer to see what, ifanything, they cover medical facility, but if you have alarge deductible policy, the greater of this might part come Your own health insurance may cover rescue and emergency to the transport nearest home for example, this can runto tens of thousands of dollars. that may be involved in the mountains. in an injury If you need medical repatriation back expenses total the of beginning the just is flight the of cost the quickly.And up add can it be much more ifan unusual amount of helicopter time is involved. At about per minute, $90 expensive, bevery usuallyupwards for fairly a of $5000 straightforward pick-up, but it can we strongly recommend that you have apolicy in place. Helicopter rescue in the Alps can While we do not require rescue and evacuation insurance for participation in our programs, We donot provide insurance of our rescue fees aspart insurance Rescue leads to betterunderstanding andmaking. decision to talk about these things. It is informative for you, agood exerciseFurther for us, and we believe weencounter or our assessments of them, please askus. Believeit or not, weactually like • Information Assessing and managing risk is part of our job, and we have plenty of experience of plenty havewe and job, our of part is risk managing and Assessing veto your exercising even and concern, your expressing for responsible are You Duringanytour, ski climbor beforeor after,or youif have questions risksaboutthe

The Matterhorn and Eiger are difficult climbs. They require an ability to move smoothly, move to ability an require They climbs. difficult are Eiger and Matterhorn The Eiger Mont or words Blanc. couple A of caution: Many folks hoping come to peaks, climb some of the big-name commonlythe Matterhorn, summits. Famous You can help us to do this by us know letting how“fun”. you, define in particular close to your“fun”as definitionweather, of climbing conditions and abilitiespersonal allow. Almost allof our Alps climbing guidingis oncustom a basis, sowe should beable to get as justbeing high up in theair. Somelike to learn, otherslike to simply enjoy the experience. Fun” means different things to different folks. Some like a personal climbing challenge, other Fun. abit morecan relax and concentrate on the fun part. don’t interfere with each other. In fact, with the guide watching out for many problems, you help you avoid the many of the wild mountain hazards environment. Usually these priorities The guide’s job is basicallyto help you have fun, get to the summit and down again, and to Guide’s job. Further your with out pals. Climbing with a guide is (or should be) a lot of fun. A few things are a bit different from going Climbing with aMountain Guide. org.uk/p-benefits at website their Visit detail). more for leaflet their flying read competitions; altitude, sports, high as such exceptions, few a (with worldwide valid is insurance rescue nor travel/trip cancellation. Anyone can join, regardless of residence, and the associated to the nearest medical facility, and repatriation. Note: it does not cover gear, lost/broken material to reach you), this covers the initial rescue and evacuation from the mountains UK section. Cheap, easyto sign up for online(though allowcouplea of weeks for their Another option wehave found tobequite useful, is toenroll in theAustrian AlpineClub’s org/p/insurance here: offerings their over look overseas, skiing and climbing Informationseparately.itpurchase toneed Theyoffer many different appropriateinsurance of kinds to their by offered insurance true to Adventurepartners, Advocates. access This is not included in your club membership dues, you have also you member AAC an as However, Globalas Rescue personnel do the rescue work themselves; not practical in the Alps! called GlobalRescue, but this is not valid It America. is outsidealso notof North insurance, The American AlpineClub This islooking. agoodplace to start national alpine clubs offer rescue insuranceas part of, oras a supplement to theclub dues. What you purchase depends mostly on where you are from and where you plan to go. Most theirand offerings.policies The Rescue Insurancelandscape seems to changedaily, clubs as and insurers change Purchasing insurance rescue out afewsorting appropriate options for insurance ifyour existing policy is inadequate. trip cancellation due orto curtailment injury. Thediscussion belowshould get you started You might also want to purchaseinsurance against loss or breakageof equipment, or in the way of rescue and evacuation, well as repatriation as to your of residence. country for more information. http://americanalpineclub.org/ offers a plan to its members its to plan a offers http://americanalpineclub. http://aacuk.

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fallingby climbing well and carefully. Asback-up, a ropes and other gear canoften reduce Falling is the greatest climbers face hazard and claims themost lives. We primarilyavoid discussing briefly here: worth these, with deal to strategies different haveWe death. to freezing andabove, from in the mountains. But the primary three are; falling off the mountain, getting hit by something The guide also must help you to manage risk. There are quite afew ways to “get the chop” Safety. All in all, the best strategy is to come with aflexible outlook, rather “hit-list”. than a specific always permit an ascent. condition. In fact, ifthe weather is good, snow conditions, whatever they may be, almost Mont Blanc, by comparison, is mostlysnowa climb and is lessprone to being out of variety and challenge that the Alps have to offer. Beingpsychologically prepared for thiswill help you enjoyyour tripand appreciateall the condition we’ll to do other try great climbs in the area that are not conditions as sensitive. 12 to 15 days out of the entire summer season. When the Matterhorn and Eiger are out of back into condition. Inbad a summer, condition” the “in days may number few as maybe as to climb safely. the snow Once falls, several days of sunny weather is needed to put them put them out of condition by making them too time consuming, not to mention too slippery, smallest amount of snow on the extensive rock climbing of the Eiger and Matterhorn can determiningAnother important factoronthese peaks the currentis conditions.Even the need to learn or do to bring these peaks within your grasp. abilities. of One the main objectives for your trip should be to discover what, ifanything, you other ascents), while at the same time determining whether you have the needed skills and of yourskills. part An tripimportant will be learning what these peaks require (by doing before it is hard to know what to expect, and harder still to know if you have the necessary terrain, and this for many hours on end. If you have never done anything quite like them steadily and relativelyoverquickly steep, very always exposed and occasionallytechnical It when is of choosing utmostyour importance to bear itinerary in mind your own physical Prepare your adventure warm though more continuous movement. equipment good But alsocalledfor. is stay can body and hands where one objective, different a choose strategy.may weAlso, Freezing to death is best avoided by not going out in bad conditions, and this is our primary and to take advantage of better snow to conditions, finish early andearly. we try start timing is critical. In general mountains are more “active” the as day warms. For this reason, related, when such as afternoon warming releasesfrozen-in otherwise rocks. In such cases on being able to move quicklythrough areas. hazardous Some of these are hazards time helmets onlyslightly reduce fromthe clobbered. risk of getting injury Avoidance depends hit byGetting something from above best is avoided by not being there when that thing falls; Even the strongest guide can’t drag anyone up amountain. themountain yourself, providing skill, willall the necessary power and upward momentum. together, therope at theready, carrying and belaying necessary. as You stillneed to climb ornoslowinglittle down during transitions roping between the two. itmeans moving Short Furtherrope we can move together when the terrain is easy, and belay harder sections, short with the broken terrain of the roping”. mountains is called “short By using only asmall amount of the likelihood if we of injury do fall. of One the protective techniques we commonly use on Information

regularto visits the crag local or climbingwall are advised. For technicalclimbing courses, mountains with your on rucsac wouldn’tamiss, go whereas forrock a ortrip ice then some an expedition or a week of alpine climbing, then a few days spent walking or climbing in the what else is involved too , so you can tailor your preparation accordingly - eg if you are off on out descriptionscarefullyfind totrip happen! actuallyDon’tforgettends totheread to it so playing hard. These have the advantage that you usually have a regular slot for doing them, rugby, hockey etc) and racket (egfootball, sports squash) (eg are alsosports good forms of training ifyou enjoy team Cardiovascular can. u yo as much as outdoors get fit, hill get to it seems that running on atreadmill just isn’t good foras you doing as the real thing -ie unfortunately so - muddy trainers or boots their get regularly who those as fit mountain as the hills whenever possible. We’ve noticed that people who always train indoors are never exercise (hillwalking, running, cycling, mountain biking etc) out and for getting long days in The best preparation for always mountain sports involves good amounts of cardiovascular Which Type Exercise? Of stamina. untain mo from strength or power training such weights/rowing as etc, to which do little impro vedifferent yo ur very is This time. a at hours several for going keep you help to order in periods, Furthercardiovascular exercise here -that gets your and lungs working heart hard for extended good idea how much work you may still need to do . Please note that we are talking about idealexcuse toandgo havesome fun, it should help with your preparation and giveyou a period and docouple a of long mountain days to see how you get from on. being Apart the To check out how mountain fit you are, we suggest you get away for a weekend early in this YourChecking Fitness harder trips, so me regular training will beneccesary). prepared. You don’t need to be an athlete, but you do need to be active and healthy (for our an you give to designed ideaare of how active you need to be during theuse 2-3 months prior to your trip in order to bewe well levels technicals 6 the the and levels fitness 5 The your holiday -and is essential for succeeding on many of our objectives. It goes without saying that arriving fit and well is if important you want to get the most out of Advice Fitness Mountaineering Advice Fitness -Ski Informationand treating others you as would like to betreated can make or break the adventure. spirit, consideration for others is expected from each and every one of us. Pulling together upactivities atent, –is putting helping in daily chores etc….In other words, adopting ateam Depending on which programme you choose you may be expected to join in with day to day Psychological Preparartion. your more enjoyable. visit Both for yourselves you for and into locals the come with. contact Culture-Read up on culturelocal and traditions to in the have Country chosen to visit. Make Cultural Preparation. take into following considerationthe points. Depending on your choice of programme, you could face uncommon situations. Please are either tents or refuges, to the ability readily adapt is often required. For trekking, mountaineering, mountaineering ormore ski two days the sleeping quarters Depending you on which itinerary choose the level of varies comfort in each case. touch... We are here to help. Should you have any questions on further any of the above please don’t hesitate to get in fit. get and readyinvolved. get others forSo and yourselfadventuresfor both the break or tent, extreme weather conditions; and group life, etc... Knowing ones own limits can make and ofcapacity course personal preferences. Don’t forget being in altitude; camping in

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possible, werecommend you arrivefew a days earlyin order to spend some time at altitude and chances of reaching the summit. The more acclimatisation you do the better –so if makes a big difference on summit day – greatly increasing both your enjoyment of theclimb the reduced oxygen content of the air. mprior Reaching to the ascent 4000 of Mont Blanc overthen to 4000m a period of three days –this allows your body time to adapt properly to Blanc we spend 2 night s sleeping at altitude in a mountain hut, climbing first to3600m and of our customers). A good acclimatisation program follows astaged approach – for Mont offer the same ourselves – but we don’trun them, because they aren’t in the best interests easily could we and itineraries day offering 5 there out companies(weare hutthere know a in up night single a spending or valley, the in sleeping and cars cable off climbing days of aminimum.as You simplywon’t beacclimatised properlyfor Mont Blanc after justcouple a holiday –then who ever you book with, we recommend you always gofor asix day itinerary acclimatisation plan. Example –ifyou are going to climb Mont Blanc in just one weeks age and fitness often makes little difference. For this you reason How it mountain. acclimatize ‘s and cope with altitude high is strongly determined by genetics,important so it ‘s an in area where to climbing follow when issue a significant sensible a are altitude of effects The Program Acclimatisation and Altitude enjoyingas well. as the of social aspects sport to train with other people. That way you’ll have acommitment to turn out each week, well as is to organise aregular group of friends with to each doweek, sport or join a club in order exercise affectingbest up without commitments.way good The other it in to sessionkeep a fit to able be may you where places all are etc lunchtime a on training week, a times of places where you may be able to find the time to train. Running or cycling to work a couple leading up to your trip. you’ve Once got this, take alook at your weekly routine and look for amount ofweekly cardiovascular exercise you should be doing during the 2-3 months the to as guideline a you give will this - holiday chosen levels your for fitness required the at a look take is do to thing first trip. The the for fit gettoyou’ve youneedso decided - Ok Finding Time To Train climbingfitness. specific yourdevelop to way best the as crag or wall the to visits regular recommend we once during the night to urinate, which is why apee bottle. most mountaineers carry of vitamins that you don’t need). If you are hydrating well, you will need to wake up at least feel needto a almost pee hourly, and your urine should pale be yellow (barring mega-doses mountaineering, of the rule thumb to is drink enough to “clear pee and copious.” You should If you haven’t worked up to this amount of stress beforehand, life is gonna suck. When be working hard for 6to 8hours aday, perhaps more, day after day. Still, going to thehigh mountains unprepared is foolish. It’s muchgiven a that pretty you will frequently Young kick pups’ when mountaineering butts and in ultra-endurance events. least of which is increased research stamina. There little is very on this, but old geezers confer travel,to high-altitude otherbenefits appearswisdom, additionto for age In the not Best advice: slow and taper. start invincible, they push too hard too fast. at altitude due to testosterone-induced stupidity; because they are very fit and think they’re difficulties experience to likely mostly the are Young,men problems.healthy the of some and cerebralillnesses (pulmonary edema). Indeed, superb conditioning may underlie Countless hours of training cannot prevent acute mountain (AMS) sickness or other altitude Performance Improving Altitude Furtherseverely altitude will affect you, there are measures youcantake to minimize its effect. that mountaineers armchair seldom comprehend. Although impossible itis to predict how thepriorweek. to starting Altitudeadds whole a new dimension to theclimbing realm, one Information

frequently Young kick pups’ when mountaineering butts and in ultra-endurance events. Still, least of which is increasedresearch stamina. Therelittle is on very this, but old geezers travel, the high-altitude not for benefits otherconfer to appears age wisdom,to addition In Best advice: slow and taper. start they push too hard too fast. due to testosterone-induced stupidity; because they are very fit and think they’re invincible, of the problems. Young, healthy men are the mostly likely to experience difficulties at altitude andillnesses cerebral (pulmonary edema). Indeed, superb conditioning may underlie some Countless hours of training cannot prevent acutemountain (AMS) sickness or other altitude Improving AltitudePerformance deliberate and controlled that way—one still allows you to effectively managerisk. really learn these things without experiencing them. The is trick to gain this experience in a pattern and take it into account when making time estimates for aclimb at altitude. You can’t Each person auniquehas pattern of adjusting to altitude. to It is important learn your own extended option. long or routeshort (such as hiking from Jiri or flying to Lukla to reach theKhumbu), take the Use the approach trek to help prepare for what is to come. If you have achoice between a away. wither won’t you that mass muscle sufficient and threshold performance high a with that seem to last forever (trekking poles are agood idea). You want to reach the mountains Anticipate alot pack of aheavy strain knee up and, from carrying especially, down hills decreased AMS by percent 30 after afast ascent to 14,000 feet (4,300 meters). Furthermore, one study shown has that adiet of more than 70 percent carbohydrates weight-efficient in your pack, it also requires moreoxygen to burn. altitudes. fat Although carbohydrates, than gram per packs more calories makes which it Emphasizing carbohydrates in the diet numerous has advantages when climbing at high snowstorm. heat, mega-work). Severe dehydration can shut down your summit bid faster than any (cool temps, moderate exertion) and over 2 gallons (8 liters) on intense days (sweltering To achieve proper hydration requires consuming at least 1gallon (4 liters) on mellow days long or routeshort (such as hiking from Jiri or flying to Lukla to reach theKhumbu), take the Use the approach trek to help prepare for what is to come. If you have achoice between a away. wither won’t you that mass muscle sufficient and threshold performance high a with that seem to last forever (trekking poles are agood idea). You want to reach the mountains Anticipate alot pack of aheavy strain knee up and, from carrying especially, down hills decreased AMS by percent 30 after afast ascent to 14,000 feet (4,300 meters). Furthermore, one study shown has that adiet of more than 70 percent carbohydrates weight-efficient in your pack, it also requires moreoxygen to burn. altitudes. fat Although carbohydrates, than gram per packs more calories makes which it Emphasizing carbohydrates in the diet numerous has advantages when climbing at high snowstorm. heat, mega-work). Severe dehydration can shut down your summit bid faster than any (cool temps, moderate exertion) and over 2 gallons (8 liters) on intense days (sweltering To achieve proper hydration requires consuming at least 1gallon (4 liters) on mellow days once during the night to urinate, which is why apee bottle. most mountaineers carry of vitamins that you don’t need). If you are hydrating well, you will need to wake up at least feel needto a almost pee hourly, and your urine should pale be yellow (barring mega-doses mountaineering, of the rule thumb to is drink enough to “clear pee and copious.” You shouldFurther If you haven’t worked upto this amount of stress beforehand, lifeis gonnasuck. When working hard for 6to 8hours aday, perhaps more, day after day. going to the high mountains unprepared is foolish. It’s much agiven that pretty you will be Information

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on a low a on ratio. the greater the odds of someone keeping you back. Stack the odds in your favor and insist A team is onlystrongas orfast as its weakest as member. The larger the size of the team tour. a completing or summit the reaching successfully of odds greater offer teams Small your accomplishments. waiting for others, stay warmer, and have more time to spare at the end of the day, relishing Small teams generally move faster than large teams. This means you spend lesstime the small ratio safer than the large. Speed and a greater range of available techniques the guide can employ are what makes one guide with fiveclimbers. go with a low ratio. Two guides with four climbers is a much stronger and flexible group then problem. size But don’twith confuse guideto party client ratio. Even inlarge a group, to try socialinteraction size and thecan give increased party strength torescuea or other potential greateroffer groups These desirable. be may groups larger trekking, and peaks easy On icefall,hazards, avalanches, rockfall, hypothermia and others unpleasantness. bad things you like to avoid, like afternoon thunderstorms, nightfall, exposure to objective First, is safety. In mountainous terrain asmall team moves much faster, avoiding all the ratio (a small number of clients per guide) offers several advantages. important extremely With few exceptions you should go with the lowest client to guide ratio you can afford. A low to Guide ratio Mountaineer deliberate and controlled that way—one still allows you to effectively managerisk. really learn these things without experiencing them. The is trick to gain this experience in a pattern and take it into account when making time estimates for aclimb at altitude. You can’t Each person aunique has pattern of adjusting to altitude. to It is important learn your own extended option. are generally certified are generallyassociation.by an certified They areconsidered in mountaineering. experts Mountain guides are trained specially and experienced mountaineers and professionals who Who is Mountain the Guide 1 or 2climbers with 1guide is agoodnumber of aglacier climb. or 5people (including the guide) on one rope can befrustrating a experience for everyone. done at a1:1 ratio. Low angle glacier climbs can be done at higher ratios, but more than 4 with agreat degree of exposed and 3rd 4th terrain, class the such as Matterhorn should be general, technical climbs should have ratiomaximum aof 2:1 the Mont Blanc, and climbs When shopping for atrip always inquire what client the maximum to guide ratio will be. In success. summit of rates greater offer generally ratios Smaller adjust. to flexibility the lackedratios capableor perhaps perfectly climbers two will be unable to summit because the higher unabletobe accommodate healthy the from clients other the rope. situation In this one down with the single client. In the 1:3 ratio, however, the guide going on to the summit may other clients,on hisor her ropeand continueto the summit whilethe other guideheads to continue, with the 2:1 ratio one guide can take the healthyFurther client, in addition to his or her and 6clients. If one of the climbers is ill or simplydoesn’t have thestrength, will or desire team in adjustments accommodate to composition. Compare agroup with 2 guides and 4clients to flexibility another group with 2 guides inherent more have also teams Small Information

the globe. This last point materializes itself in theconcrete which existssolidarity between clients; and to facilitate of the ability mountain guides to work abroad, on mountains all over the work regulations which govern the profession; to ensure better safety conditions for The aim of the association is to maintain close ties between all mountain guides; to harmonise guides. 6000 than 20countries in Europe, Asia, theandAmericas Oceania, representingtotal a of almost and Italy, exists since 1965 and currentlyregroups mountain guide associations from more IFMGAThe world founded wideassociation, by from guides Austria, France, Switzerland IFMGA – International Federation Mountain Guide Association and reservedto professional Alpine guides who are officially enrolled. where the use of mountaineering technique andequipment maydeemed necessary,be limitless difficulty and,on skiing excursions outsideof theski resorts or cross-country circuits 2. The practise aprofessional as of the aforementioned of activitiesterrain, on every type of skiing. cross-country and c) teaching climbing techniques, and ski-mountaineering excluding those relative to downhill b) accompanying clients on ski-mountaineering ascents or on skiing excursions; a) accompanying clients to climb on rock or ice, or on mountain excursions; full-time or exclusively, in: necessarily not though officially, profession the practises who one is guide Alpine The 1. Guide, identifiedas follows: Alpine ofthe fields professional and competences the determine officially roll professional Nationallaws havestipulated parameters for this profession .ANationalBoard and to Mountain the regulations pertaining Guide profession legal The Associations. The biggest international organization is the International Federation of Mountain Guide organizedMountain are guides commonly innational international and associations. Preferential access to various &trams; lifts ski to contact helicopters ability The for remote mountaineering orheli-skiing; ski access rope, climbing anchorsystems, avalanche beacons, etc.; climbing,ice mountain navigation &the proper use of mountain tools like crampons, ax, ice climbing, rock awareness, avalanche skiing, off-piste like skills alpine in training Specific knowledge of routes, mountain Precise local weather, snow conditions; glacier & is visiting an unfamiliar area. These additional may mountain guide include: services especially whenexperience, the client alpine climber has the limited improve time or equipment,significantly lacks a can qualified partner or services These clients. their to services In addition to assuring safety, professional mountain guides frequently offer other desirable climbing recognized became sport. a as party. This professional of class guides arose in the middle of the 19th when Alpine century Mountain guides are employed by groups or individuals assuring the safety of the climbing through routes and the of successful atour. performance and theoretically. Most guides work(familiar) only in certain areas. The main issue is guiding thetopics rocks, snowcraft, weather, navigation, avalanchesand health, each practically Their skills usually include climbing, skiing and hiking. Their knowledge includes furthermore With a high levelhigh Witha oftraining, highestexistence,thein requiredis fourin different disciplines Highly competent Mountain Guide to each other. allguides, noofmatter their origin, country and thespontaneous they assistance provide Further Information

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Further Informationsometimes in collaboration with an organisation aschool such or as university. Guides are trained the training via dispensed schemes by their national associations, commission, made up of national technical heads, year. a meets twice to study the evolution of techniques and how to improve the level of guide training. This The Technical Commission at the IFMGA looks to in order its permanent working party standard international an guarantees Proper training the moment when they receive their guide diploma. years to become amountain guide, from the climbing, moment serious they mountaineering start to ice climbing, to five 10 takes It not. or rock mountain the know alreadythey whether range mountain any on guide: mountain IFMGA certified mountaineering mountaineering. and ski a IFMGA training gives to guide a work the ability become to order in Ours Mountain Guides are members of www.montblancmountainguide.com 08 Pallusieux 11010 Pré Saint Didier Aosta Italy Phone +39 0165 87001 mob. +39 333 6108056 [email protected]