THE HARD FACTS Climbing Mont Blanc 4810m

Icicle Mountaineering Church St, Windermere Lake District, LA23 1AQ +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 [email protected]

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 1 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk Who’s writing this article? Hello, my name’s Kingsley, and I’ll almost certainly be out in Chamonix when you make your ascent of Mont Blanc. I first climbed it unguided when I was 17, and have since been up it many tens of times. Now I work as a UIMLA guide for Icicle, and when back in the UK, I live in the Lake District, where I’m also on the local Mountain Rescue team. As well as climbing, I’ve run many mountain ultra-marathons up to 200 miles long, and have also written several mountain guidebooks. I assure you that Mont Blanc is far harder than you ever imagined. I’ll bet you’ll confirm that to me too!

This article is not a scare tactic, but it’s been a long time in the coming. We’ve operated guided ascents of Mont Blanc for nearly 20 years now, and whilst sometimes we think we’ve seen it all, there’s always room for some more surprises. The decision to write this, was based on trying to give people a serious reality check, so they better understand what they have signed up too, and what an ascent really involves. There’s still time for you to train more before your trip, to adjust your equipment, and also mentally prepare too. Hopefully reading this will give you the final kick up the bum to do just that. Good luck, and see you out in Chamonix this summer!

Mont Blanc is the most dangerous mountain in We get a few phone calls each year from the world! Google will spit out the facts at you, worried partners, who’ve scared themselves but without any context, they’re meaningless. silly about what their other half’s have signed Nanga Parbat, K2, or Kanchenjunga have a far up for, so please also consider them for a better claim on that title. The statistics for second, and put their minds at ease. In nearly Mont Blanc are a factor of numbers, in that 20 years of guided ascents, none of our group every day of the season where weather allows, participants has died on the mountain, or even up to three mountain huts full of people, will had a significant injury! For sure we’ve seen set out on their bids for the summit. Compare our fair share of sprains, fatigue, and blisters, that with just a handful of say Everest summit but nothing too serious. Let’s keep in that way. days each year. This article is really designed as some bedtime The sheer numbers on Mont Blanc, with a few reading for you, in the weeks and months accidents, soon generate misquoted statistics. before your trip with us this summer. For sure Drill down into those numbers, and you’ll see not everyone will read it. We know that not that the safety of guided ascents is vastly everyone even reads the itinerary on the superior than that of unguided groups. Simply website, that they booked up to. Let’s start put, guides know the mountain backwards, with the hard fact, that most people ignore; they know the conditions and weather patterns, and they want to get you up it, and HARD FACT #1. You are NOT guaranteed to get safely home themselves. to reach the summit of Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 2 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk Why would we spoil your dreams with that very avalanche prone, and are a no-go area hard fact? We live in an age where challenges until the snowpack has stabilised, generally a are often seen as a consumable. Every time day or two later. If it’s even a consideration to we look on the TV or social media, someone is wear avalanche beacons for a summer ascent achieving a ’bucket list’ goal, or doing some of Mont Blanc, extreme sport. Contrary to what is portrayed we don’t go, as on our screens, there’s also failure, and that’s it’s too risky. rarely reported, but the harder you push The statistics for yourself, or the greater the challenge, the this speak for higher the chances of failure. There are many t h e m s e l v e s . things on Mont Blanc that can collude against Over 95% of all you, and here’s some to consider. people who die in an avalanche, Rain - Many of you will be travelling from the trigger the very UK. Icicle is based in the Lake District, so we avalanche that know we see our fair share of rain. It doesn’t kills them. In other words, we are the enemy really stop us in the Lakes, or any of our after fresh snow, and it’s our weight that National Parks, so why is it a game changer triggers the avalanche. for Mont Blanc? Firstly if you get Crevasses - There are crevasses on Mont soaked on your Blanc, though generally they are form in very way up to a hut, predictable places, and whilst on the upper there are not ridges of the mountain, there is very little sufficient drying rotational slow of the glaciers affecting the ice facilities for over cap, as generally you are above the rimaye / 100 people’s wet bergschrund anyway. However, whilst the clothes, so you location of crevasses is generally known to the might have to mountain guides, a coating of fresh snow set off the next does obscure all the telltale signs of crevasses day in wet clothing, which would freeze, and lurking below, and is a minor consideration possibly cause you hypothermia or even after fresh snow on the mountain. frostbite, especially on your extremities. Wind - This is the major one in this list, as it’s Snow - Where there’s rain lower down, there’s virtually impossible to summit when wind sure to be snow up high. Generally snow speeds are gusting over 60km/h. From the makes you cold rather than wet, but from a valley floor, it might look a perfect day, but purely physical viewpoint, the quantity of snow high up on the far exceeds what we are used too in the UK, mountain, it can and can impede progress to a complete be hellish. Any standstill, or trap you in a mountain hut. If winds of 80km/ heavy snow is forecast at altitude, it’s game h (50mph), and over for an ascent of Mont Blanc, and you will it’s impossible. need to consider an alternative summit. Gusts on the ridge line can Avalanche - With snowfalls, comes avalanche quite literally risk, and whilst most sections of Mont Blanc, blow you right via its normal routes are along ridges, there off your feet. On are several snow faces to negotiate, such as the steep summit ridge, it’s not somewhere the Dome du Gouter. After fresh snow, or wind you can afford to take a fall at the best of transported snow events, these faces become times, let alone when in a wind storm event.

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 3 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk Lightning - The weather forecasts will often quickly and nimbly across this section. The highlight if there is lightning risk predicted. It’s guides will have been watching your footwork very rare to get fair weather electrical storms, and fitness like hawks on the approach to the so typically this is when bad weather is Gouter Couloir, as it’s their final opportunity to forecast anyway, but it might be the final nail judge if it’s safe to attempt to cross it with you in the coffin when deciding whether it is safe or not. As a top tip, go and practice your to even attempt movement over scree and boulder fields, the mountain. when doing your training before you go to the Lightning is one Alps. It will improve your confidence and of the objective fluidity over that kind of terrain and might be risks in the Alps the difference between success and failure on that kills the Mont Blanc. Go and actively seek out the highest number rough ground and the awkward terrain! of people, and it n e e d s t o b e HARD FACT #2. highly respected In event of major at all times. If rockfalls it is lightning is on the forecast, you don’t go! In sometimes illegal the summer months, the greatest likelihood of to attempt to lightning is in afternoon storms, which occur in climb Mont Blanc the late afternoon, when you are either safely in a hut, or back down off the mountain. Don’t Sickness - A worry about these storms, but about frontal common cold, active weather systems. or heaven forbid the great ‘man flu’ might strike at any time. In Rockfall - We live in an age of global warming the valley you might be fine with this, but up at and rapid climate change. In the Alps, the altitude everything is amplified significantly. A level of permafrost melt is accelerating high up cold has the capacity to dehydrate you. Flu into the mountains, with the effect that areas can give you horrendous headaches. Eating that are prone food that gives you an upset stomach can be to rockfall, are a nightmare experience, when you are hours becoming more from the next toilet. Whilst you can guard so. There is no against getting sick, you can stack the odds in more famous your favour by keeping healthy, eating foods place for rock- that you are used to, and treating any illness at fall, than in the its earliest stages. Being ill on Mont Blanc is Gouter Couloir horrendous, and you wouldn’t wish it on your of Mont Blanc. worst enemy. If you are feeling sick on your When there has trip, go and see a doctor sooner rather than been a good later. An appointment generally costs between refreeze, or a covering of snow, there is 30 - 50€, and you can usually see a doctor virtually no rockfall. When the sunlight moves within 48 hours, so tell one of the Icicle team around, and hits the couloir, the heat increases at the first opportunity, if you need a visit. The rapidly, and rocks can come crashing down. cost of this usually needs to be paid directly, Sometimes they are very small. Other times but good insurance will cover you for this. they are the size of grand pianos or small cars. The guides hate this section of the climb. It is Fatigue - OK, so you know climbing Mont the most risky, and aside of watching and Blanc is going to be tiring, but just so you can listening, there’s virtually nothing you can do put it in context, we’ve had Royal Marines to increase your safety, apart from moving who have said it nearly beat them, triathletes

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 4 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk and Ironmen/women who found it hard, and Psychological - Years ago someone stopped even the guides themselves find it a very long their ascent of Mont Blanc about 30 minutes day. On the other hand, we’ve politely put, had shy of the summit, as their iPod batteries had some interesting run out. We don’t know what their playlist was, b o d y s h a p e s but without it, the ascent soon fizzled out. It’s who have made apparent that everyone has a slightly different it. Whilst they‘re reason why they chose to attempt Mont Blanc an exception to on their own or with friends. For some it’s a the normal, our physical challenge to test them. Others really experience to it’s for their moment of Facebook glory, or to date has never impress the office colleagues. Some, it’s for to meet anyone the history surrounding the first ascents of the who said Mont highest peaks of the Alps. Take a moment to B l a n c w a s consider why you signed up, and be honest easier than they thought. Along the way, we’ve with yourself. If it’s a flaky reason, you’ve got met some quite big personalities, and all were poor foundations to put yourself through a honest about how much effort Mont Blanc huge exertion during the climb, and you don’t was. Before the climb we’ve heard it all; “it’s want them to crumble. Preparing yourself in just a walk”, or “nothing can stop me”, and all psychological terms is not just a motivational that trash talk, but at the other end of the exercise. It’s far more than that. Take the worst scale we’ve had more than one person who case scenario, and imagine telling your loved quite literally shat themselves with fatigue. I’ll ones that you leave that mental image with you a while. hadn’t reached the top. Would Motivation - There’s nothing easier than to they think any say you are highly motivated. It’s just air less of you, or passing through your vocal cords. President just be glad you Trump would probably say that; “I’m the most were safe, or motivated-ional person in the world. No one is h a p p y y o u ’ d as motivational-erated as I am, or has ever enjoyed yourself been seen”. Whilst we laugh at Trump-isms, anyway? It’s all just keep your motivational thoughts under too easy to get your breath, lest they come back to haunt you. personally absorbed in a climb, and never to It’s impossible to be completely motivated for consider failure, but it’s important to do just the unknown. Keen, and driven, yes. But when that. Have a good think why you want to climb you don’t know what you are facing, it’s hard Mont Blanc, and what it really matters if you to have motivation to match. By its very nature don’t make it for whatever reason. Some motivation assumes knowledge. Your energies groups who have been thwarted by weather, are far better used than in blustering. In our have gone on to tackle safer but more experience, it’s usually the quiet who get on technical climbs, that made them far happier w i t h i t a n d and more satisfied than Mont Blanc ever succeed, and would. Ask yourself why you chose Mont it’s the loud who Blanc. Was it the biggest? Well it’s not the ail noisily and biggest in Europe as that’s Mount Elbrus. Was spectacularly. it because you had heard of it, or a mate had Humility is key, climbed it? You can do better than that. and Mont Blanc has an uncanny HARD FACT #3. Mont Blanc will seek out and knack of finding ruthlessly exploit your weaknesses. Prepare out who is who. yourself for this before you travel

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 5 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk Equipment - It’s easy to obsess about your kit Some people come with a partner or friend, to the detriment of spending the equivalent and others match up with someone else on time training. The correct equipment is the trip. Generally it’s this latter group who we important, but worrying about 100g here and have the least issues with, as no one wants to t h e re , r a t h e r let down or be let down by a relative stranger, than on your and so these pairings usually work well. If gut, is illogical. there’s issues on the mountain, the guide can You will already try any swop pairings if there’s others around, have been sent but they cannot abandon you anywhere other very detailed kit than a manned hut. If you are in doubt, then lists for your do not progress above a hut, as there is a risk trip, so please of you both having to turn around. Whilst you read them. As could have to return due to an unforeseen you will already circumstances, have read, you but to continue aren’t dressing for as bad weather as you w h e n y o u r might encounter in the UK, as snow could a s c e n t w a s make an ascent unsafe. You are looking for a l r e a d y i n lightweight layering system with good doubt, is selfish flexibility and ventilation. Heavy-weight 3 ply and dangerous. Goretex or Paramo, thick fleeces, and warm but wet systems such as Buffalo, aren’t ideal Altitude - On an for the Alps. This isn’t being snobby in the ascent of Mont slightest. These items have their place, but it’s Blanc, it’s very not on Mont Blanc. If you are lean and light, very rare for altitude sickness to stop an and so is your kit, you’ve again stacked the ascent, but the majority of climbers will exhibit odds in your favour. If you rock up with a one or more of the minor effects of altitude military style Bergan, and kit from the 80’s, the sickness. These minor conditions include a chances are you’re making life very difficult loss of appetite, nausea, poor sleep, and a for yourself. Another top tip is to watch what mild headache. If allowed to progress, then the guides are more serious effects such as nausea, loss of w e a r i n g a n d balance, and severe headaches will develop. taking each day. If your bag is HARD FACT #4. Every single day you invest in any way near acclimatisation before or during a course, will the same size increase your summit chances. Five days is an as theirs, and absolute minimum for a safe ascent they are also carrying ropes, The simplest remedy is descent. Beyond this, ice screws, first the severe mountain sickness signs are of aid kits etc, you pulmonary and cerebral oedema, which can are very clearly taking too much. Each season cause respiratory issues, and in cerebral cases there are a few testy conversations between a coma and even death. Mont Blanc is ‘only’ clients and guides or Icicle staff, regarding the 4810m high, so oedema’s are phenomenally size of a rucksack, where obviously the client infrequent, but the early signs are exhibited in is always right. That’s customer service! The almost every climber. The altitude and your guide has probably climbed Mont Blanc over a acclimatisation get blamed for everything. You hundred times, but what do they know? should consider a longer course if possible, or Partner - It’s not me, it’s you! Finding a good if you are arriving on the Saturday or early on a partner for Mont Blanc is not always obvious. Sunday, then get up to the Aiguille du Midi

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 6 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk 3842m via the cable car, and spend several You want to climb Mont Blanc, and it’s easiest hours up there. Not just an hour or two, then for us if you do exactly that. We’ve gone to followed by a walk at an altitude that won’t huge lengths to secure hut spaces, secure give you any acclimatisation, but spend a full guides, and prepare you for it, but the weather day up there. is the weather. Many clients seem to feel that Read a book. they should attempt the mountain at all costs, Sleep in a shady and so (where it is safe to do so) they make an corner. Just do abortive attempt. It’s hard to sympathise in the full tourist these circumstances when realistic alternative t h i n g . E v e r y summits have m i n u t e a n d been suggested, h o u r s y o u r a t h e r t h a n spend up there, certain failure. will assist you in Why is it good to acclimatising for fail, rather than Mont Blanc. On the Mont Blanc one week to listen & adapt course, ascents are either on the Wednesday to then succeed and Thursday, or the Thursday and Friday. i n s a f e t y o n Which days are a function of the hut spaces, another summit? and route choices, so if you want a guaranteed night at altitude, before Mont Individuals - We’re all individuals, with very Blanc, then plan to get out on the Saturday different reasons to tick, but what’s infuriating and to book in a hut for the night, to spend a is people pitting themselves against the night in one of the easy unguided non-glacial mountains with an ‘at all costs’ attitude. The access huts, such the Plan d’Aiguille hut. In Alps are big mountains, if you’re used to the our experience, most of the reports of guests UK National Parks, and they need to be saying they have altitude sickness are actually respected far more. It’s consequently harder dehydration, sunstroke, or fatigue related, for UK climbers to accept and adapt to the rather than being primarily due to altitude. To conditions, that for those say from Canada or put it in context, one season I arrived in New Zealand, who are accustomed to bigger Chamonix from the UK, and ascended Mont peaks and their associated weather patterns. Blanc via the Trois Mont Blanc traverse from the first cable car the next morning. I had no HARD FACT #5. No acclimatisation whatsoever, and it hurt. It guide will ever let didn’t stop me, but it slowed me by about an you set foot on hour. Acclimatisation is more about your the mountain, relative comfort on Mont Blanc, than a where mountain complete arbiter of whether you succeed or not. It helps, but rarely decides. rescue is a likely outcome for the Forecasts - Weather forecasts are just that, as weather or your their name says. When the weather is looking skills set doubtful for an ascent, the guides and Icicle team may suggest another summit to The guides have our full authority for all safety consider. The vast majority of people reject decisions on the mountain, and it is their this advice, and it’s only made when a majority choice alone whether they actually set foot on of forecasts concur that the ascent isn’t likely. the mountain with the prevailing weather and It’s frustrating for everyone if the forecasts for conditions, and your skills set. In much the an ascent suggest it’s not going to happen, same way as we respect you as an individual, and you should prepare for this eventuality. we must all respect the guide safety decision.

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 7 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk Well, that’s it for all the doom and gloom about little whinges and a long day, albeit successful what could conspire against you making a and without issue. If you’re prone to being a successful ascent, and hopefully I haven’t tired and grumpy git, head to bed as soon as missed anything. Oh yes, there’s just one you get down. You’re sleep deprived, suffering more thing. In from mild altitude sickness, dehydrated, very 99% of cases, smelly and tired. Your social skills will not be it’s someone or at their peak. Before you set off, put a cold s o m e t h i n g drink or two in the fridge, and enjoy them in else’s fault that the bath / shower as soon as you get back, t h e s u m m i t then head to bed for a power nap. You’ll wasn’t reached, become a person again, and able to enjoy very very rarely your ascent soon after! the individual in their opinion. Remember that guides are people too, and S t r a n g e t h a t need their beer and a sleep too, after an statistical phenomenon! In the era of ascent. If you’ve snowflakes, and being potentially overly m a d e y o u r sensitive over everything, it brings us to ascent before another hard fact for Mont Blanc. the end of the week, there’s HARD FACT #6. It’s time to ‘grow a pair’ and get over always guiding yourself. Mont Blanc will hurt, and shit may happen provided on the metaphorically or literally. You need to accept a r e m a i n i n g very high level of personal responsibility day(s), though you may wish Sorry for that fact, but the words Mont Blanc for a later start and holiday, should never be used in the same to allow for a lie in. In this case, if you are sentence. If you prepare very well, the ascent asked what your plans are for the next day, should be uneventful, and perhaps enjoyable, straight after you are down from Mont Blanc, but there’s no escaping that the descent is 75%+ say they want a day off the next day, long. Very long. There’s 2500m of descent. and over half regret that impulse decision the That’s twice Ben next morning. You don’t have to do a full day, Nevis, in big and could maybe do a few hours rock boots, on tired climbing or perhaps climb a via ferrata. legs, with the effe c t s o f Please don’t arrange an activity with your a l t i t u d e , a n d guide, then go out on the piss, and not turn up after a very early the next morning. They’ve got out of bed for start and a long nothing, and are always gutted! Even if you day. You’ll get don’t want to do an activity, maybe arrange to grumpy, pissed meet your guide to buy them a coffee, or take off, and even them out to lunch, or just give them a nice the shine of a perfect ascent, will have a bottle of wine as a thank you. It’s always much slightly soured ending. That’s the way appreciated by them. mountains are. They’re big, and brutal, and they don’t give a monkeys about your feelings. So that’s all the hard facts for Mont Blanc then? Not at all. We’re still just scratching the Please try not to take it out on those around surface. The greatest misconception is that you. We’re used to it, but not immune, and because people have climbed a higher peak have noticed a strong correlation between such as Kilimanjaro or even Aconcagua, that Mont Blanc will be easier. Far from it, as there Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 8 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk is far greater snow cover on it, that these other Tip 3 – Coping in the dark. An early start at peaks, and walking in crampons is far more around 3am is required on summit day, to take effort than just in boots, which suffice in advantage of well frozen snow, lower winds, normal conditions for those other peaks. As and to manage objective risks. Many people Mont Blanc is far lower, it’s clearly far more aren’t used to being in the mountains in the than the effects of altitude. Physical fitness dark, and the LED light gives a very flat light and endurance are the key, as well as quick 2D perspective where it is hard to gauge recovery times. Let’s take a different tack for a depth perception. Practise at home going out while, to take a look at the top 10 tips to help on training runs or walks in the night, so you you achieve the summit… build up confidence in dark, and get used to minor details such as finding pockets in the Tip 1 – Take the right kit. The old army adage pitch black, and adjusting your hood with of the 7P’s Proper Planning and Preparation gloves on. Prevents Piss Poor Performance, couldn’t be truer than for Tip 4 – Train to succeed. Every single training taking the right session you put in before your trip will raise k i t o n M o n t y o u r c h a n c e s o f s u m m i t s u c c e s s Blanc. Whilst it incrementally, and in climbing the measure of is fine to hire all success is not reaching the top, but returning the technical home with a smile on your face. Someone equipment, your arriving completely spent on the summit, is c h o i c e o f unable to take in the surroundings, and c l o t h i n g i s then faced with a huge task of the huge exceptionally 2500m descent of the mountain. Training is personal, and it not just for the summit, but for enjoyment and is key to select good kit that fits well, doesn’t to increase your safety. Don’t skip a single rub, moves well with your body shape, and is training session. light yet tough. This choice comes from experience of long days in the mountains, in Tip 5 – Look after your guide. The IFMGA all weathers, when you really discover what kit m o u n t a i n g u i d e s a re p h e n o m e n a l l y works for you. experienced and well trained, but they cannot pull you Tip 2 – Gouter Couloir. Ghouls can scare up a mountain, themselves silly looking at YouTube footage of and are there for incompetent teams in the Gouter Couloir. Its y o u r s a f e t y. meagre size, is disproportionate to the amount Don’t forget that written about it. As long as the timings are t h e y a re n o t respected on the mountain, you help minimise climbing robots, the risks of rockfall. Go early in the day when and it’s always the couloir is cold and in shade, keep an eye g re a t t o s e e o u t f o r a n y groups showing r o c k - f a l l interest in their (impossible in guide as a fellow human. By looking after each the dark), move other, you develop a personal relationship, q u i c k l y a n d that is essential for a successful and happy efficiently, and ascent. Simple acts like buying the guide a don’t stop for drink, or asking about their life away from any reason. It’s Mont Blanc, goes a long way. This point has over before you been raised before in this article, and it’s no realise. mistake that it’s been repeated here.

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 9 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk Tip 6 – Improve your footwork. No previous their group, and consequently all teams crampon experience, or climbing rope-work, is generally move at different rates, acting required for an ascent of Mont Blanc, however independently from other groups in the the 1:2 guiding mountain. Pacing’ is advanced mountaincraft. ratio ensures that technical Tip 9 – Dealing with the crowds. People experience can often ask when is the quiet season to climb b e g a i n e d Mont Blanc. Look at the reservations for the d u r i n g t h e Gouter Hut, and you’ll see it is normally fully week. The one booked every day throughout the summer. thing no guide There is no quiet season, aside of bad weather can teach that days. If it’s quiet on the mountain, someone quickly is how knows something you don’t. Prepare for the you can move crowds by training well to get ahead of slow quickly and efficiently over broken mountain groups, take ear plugs / iPod to sleep well in terrain such as scree, easy scrambling and the hut(s), and pack your rucksack to avoid boulders. The best training for this can be time lost faffing in the post breakfast pre-dawn done in the modest hills in the UK, to melee. develop balance, confidence, efficiency and ankle strength progressively. Tip 10 – Determination. Some people claim to be so determined that nothing will stop Tip 7 – It is steep! Some people complacently them. There’s a very strong correlation state that Mont Blanc is ‘just a walk’. We call between these people, and those with no bullshit on this claim, as the summit ridge is previous experience of mountaineering. like walking along the roofline of a church, Determination is an educated state of mind, apart from in this case the roof is over a that requires some knowledge of what it is kilometre long, with a drop of several hundred determined to succeed on. The most metres on either side. When the weather is genuinely determined people don’t share their good, there is a decent track on the mountain, thoughts. They quietly get on with it, but both you and your guide will be highly constantly learning, taking in their surrounds, attentive to the steep sections. Whilst the and focusing on route is technically relatively easy, it demands the job at hand. constant respect. They succeed.

Tip 8 – Adjusting your pace. Good pacing is What is a very crucial on Mont Blanc. That doesn’t mean key message in going slowly. It this article, is means moving that we want efficiently, not you to enjoy l o s i n g t i m e , your ascent of j u d g i n g w e l l Mont Blanc, not your aerobic / to simply cope. We climb mountains for fun, to a n a e r o b i c share experiences, and to learn about a t h r e s h o l d s , different part of the world. respecting the timings on the HARD FACT #7. The group of people who are most r o u t e t o likely to succeed on Mont Blanc, are those who minimise objective dangers (afternoon storms, obviously are trying to learn skills, and see the rockfall, crowds etc), and keeping safe. The summit as a bonus rather than a guarantee guide’s key role is to set a suitable pace for

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 10 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk So by now you have either gone to sleep, or provide them a more structured and regular are terrified about the climb ahead. Hopefully training, and to help them explore the region you are actually in the middle of the two better in good long hill days. The instructor will extremes, and now have a healthy respect for ensure that you get plenty of experience on the task ahead. Let’s go back to the hard facts broken rough mountain terrain, with some again, as we’ve no wish for delusional or scrambling, to build up your confidence and complacent thoughts. There’s still a good few footwork. If you are keen on attending one of weeks before your trip, so in an ideal world, these weekends, here’s the website link; here’s how we’d like you to prepare, and some http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/ pitfalls to be aware of. UKtraining.html. When you are back at work during the week, try and adapt your training to Countdown tip 1 - Realistic training. By now make it more hill specific. When going for a you should have built up a very good aerobic run, try and go off road, to cross train your training base, ankles. When at the gym, rather than simply and it’s time to using the hill stepper, put fist shaped rocks on include some each foot tread, to stand on these. Your ankles q u a l i t y h i l l will wobble and strengthen, with the t r a i n i n g i n t o compensatory actions that replicate walking y o u r re g i m e . on mountain terrain. Whilst running around the park, Countdown tip 2 - Injury prevention. While or cycling to you near the end of your pre-trip training, and from work, you’ll be highly aware of how many hours of may have been your time has been invested in preparations, part of your aerobic schedule, it’s important to and to waste it include real hill training. Nothing can prepare at this stage your feet and legs for the hills, like more hills! with an injury Rough ground, wearing boots, using trekking w o u l d b e poles, and carrying a sensibly weighted bag to gutting for you. help ‘acclimatise’ your shoulders and back, Injury prevention are all really useful. Nothing beats quality time n e e d s t o b e on your legs. Enchain several hills, rather than built into your just walking up and down one peak. Try and regime. Some of give yourself some long days, as on Mont the actions you Blanc your summit day could be 12-18 hours can take, such long, so a 2-3 as avoiding resistance training (carrying big hour hike just weights) will undoubtedly help. Also, you can w o n ’t c u t i t . investigate with a personal trainer, suitable Some people exercises for both injury prevention and fi n d a g r o u p toning. These might include high reps of light e n v i r o n m e n t weights, climbers yoga or pilates. Not only are useful for their you focused on getting fit, but also to look training, or want after your body. If you’re walking or running in an instructor to the mountains, use trekking poles to take help them with some of the strain off your knees, and to n a v i g a t i o n , protect your ankles from being rolled over. safety and training in the mountains. Icicle offers Alpine Training Weekends based in the Countdown tip 3 - Activities insurance. UK Lake District, for just £99 for the two days Sadly each year we hear from people who guiding, and some people sign up to a few to injure themselves before the trip, who have

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 11 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk not got suitable activities and travel insurance Why we’ve chosen this as the measure of to cover them. Get the best insurance you can fitness is multi-fold. Your knowledge of your find. The holiday isn’t cheap, so why wouldn’t aerobic thresholds will be amazing. You’ll be you get cover for all eventualities for a few great at pacing yourself when user aerobic extra pounds. One activities insurance policy duress. If you want a less technical definition should suffice to cover you from the point of of aerobic distress, substitute ‘sweating your booking, until the end of the course. The same bollocks off’ or perhaps ‘blowing our of your insurance should also cover you for if you arse’. There’s plenty of time for that on Mont have to curtail Blanc. Running is an exercise that can be your activities done anywhere, whether you’re based at on the trip, due home, are on a business trip, or on holiday. to illness or an injury. Getting Let’s put it another way. We’ve never had a fit g o o d c o v e r half-marathon runner who failed on Mont could save you Blanc due to their fitness. Just think about that thousands of for a second. Isn’t that the ‘golden key’ you pounds in event were after for your ascent? Surely that’s so of even a small beautifully simple and achievable, that there’s i n j u r y w h i c h no reason why you wouldn’t do it. And yet, as prevents you from either attending the course, sure as eggs are eggs, we’ll get someone who or ascending Mont Blanc. Check with the arrives in Chamonix, knowing better. They’ll be activities insurance providers that you are a sweaty mess after day one, and there will be covered for pre and during trip activities, many excuses ensuing why they are struggling injuries and illness cover. Generally we’ve seen which we’ll have all heard before; the guide is that climbing specific insurance, such as too fit, my boots don’t allow me to move through the BMC, seems to provide clients quicker, it’s the altitude (after a day at 2000m), with the best and most comprehensive cover. no one understands my pacing strategy, and a whole list of others! You’re warned. HARD FACT #8. Despite seemingly endless prompts for clients to obtain activities insurance before Each season we have a few Mont Blanc travel, one or two people each year arrive in hopefuls who state that they haven’t run Chamonix without insurance, so can’t climb because their knees can’t take it. You guessed it. Time for another hard fact. Let’s come back to the elephant in the room. Fitness, and what’s the minimum and ideal HARD FACT #9. If level required for Mont Blanc. If you’ve done your knees aren’t your research into various companies, you’ll up to running have found Icicle suggests the highest level of training, they fitness required for an ascent. We suggest almost certainly being able to run a half marathon in time of aren’t up to the 1hr45 or less, and ideally you are marathon fit. arduous of climbing Mont Of course running times don’t always equate Blanc 4810m precisely to mountain performance, but the results are a very close, and are an excellent The excuses that people have come up with measure of aerobic output and your training. over the years are funny in retrospect, but at There’s no corners you can cut with a running the time they are shared, they’re downright race of this distance. Either you have done the depressing. We know it’ll be a tough week training, or you haven’t. When on a mountain ahead, that you will struggle on and probably that is 4810m hight, you can’t hide low fitness. not enjoy. The physical effort will stress you,

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 12 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk and you’ll stress at us and others around you, Training tip 2 - Sharing. Some people find it which can create an unnecessarily tense or easier to train and suffer on their own, whilst awkward atmosphere. You’ll probably others find it much more fun with others. If complain about that’s you, then join a fitness class or club, something else sign up for group events. Run with a mate, that also wasn’t your partner, or a family member. Others use your fault. All of social media as a way of sharing their training t h i s t h a t with others, to get motivation from others. everyone has to Whatever you method, sharing training with s t o m a c h , a l l others can be easier psychologically, than b e c a u s e y o u doing it all on your own. After all, climbing is a were too lazy or team effort, shared with others who are tied on busy to put the a rope with you, so team training is good too. time into your training before-hand. Sorry if this really does Training tip 3 - Rewards. Training is hard, and come as a reality check to you, but it’s one of often lonely. It is very important to find ways to the saddest and most frustrating things to reward yourself whilst training. This might be witness in my life. Generally we see people as simple as coming to achieve amazing things in stunning eating a Jelly mountains, and a sweating, whinging lard arse Baby after a doesn’t add to the atmosphere. I’d go further steep uphill, or a to say it would probably alienate you from new piece of kit other climbers on the trip who have put in the when you hit a effort, and don’t want their ascent to be specific training endangered in any way by someone who goal. Rewards doesn’t care as much. don’t have to be to the detriment Good luck with your training for Mont Blanc. If of your training, you want a few tips how to improve and enjoy so don’t think that a run reward is a visit to it more, you’ll be more likely to keep motivated McDonalds, but they could be something you and succeed, here’s a few ideas to consider; might like or look forward to; an open water swim, a walk with your dogs, or a massage. Training tip 1 - Variety. The key reason that people fall off the training waggon, is that they Training tip 4 - Equipment. Gone are the get bored. Don’t stick to the same exercise or days of needing to lace up the Green Flash route each day. gym shoes to jog around the streets. Kit is far Mix it all up. better and more affordable than ever before, Explore different so get yourself some decent running shoes, areas and try and look after your feet and legs. It’ll be the o u t d i ffe r e n t best investment you make. a c t i v i t i e s . Running isn’t Training tip 5 - Measures. Sign up to a race, j u s t a l o n e and do a half-marathon or even a marathon. If sport. Try urban you enjoyed off road running, do a trail running orienteering, or event. It’s the best way to gauge how your hashing events, training is going to enter a timed event, so see where the focus is on the route rather than how you are performing. Even a ParkRun is a purely on the running. Get off road at least good weekly measure, albeit on a short run once a week. It’s better for your legs in terms distance, but there’s nothing stopping you of lower impact, and also mentally too. running home afterwards.

Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 13 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk I hate the context that the word holistic is Mountains are complete levellers, and that’s often used in, but your training isn’t just the one of the most appealing things about them. hour here and there, where you are getting all They don’t care hot and sweaty. Extra training can be who you are, or integrated into your lifestyle and working day. think you are. Cycle more. Eat better. Take the stairs rather They don’t care than the lift. Do more gardening. Get off the about your ego, train / tram / tube one stop early, and walk a y o u r b o a s t s , bit further. Sleep well. Hydrate. and swagger. They don’t listen HARD FACT #10. If you can’t deal with the t o t h e b l a h - psychology of regular training, it’s unlikely you’ll blah-blah. This have the right mindset for Mont Blanc great levelling is amazing to watch, as often a quiet and Training doesn’t have to be boring, and living unassuming person comes out of their shell in denial either. If it is boring, that’s a reflection slightly to be a natural and great leader. An on your personality and creativity, so take inspiration to others, and someone who helps some time to think how you can make it fun. others to get it done. Mountaineering is such a For sure you can go out for a meal in a pub, team effort, that team players are required. but either run Self-obsessed drive will falter. You need to there, or do a watch the backs of your team mates, for them longer training to trust you and catch you when you falter too. s e s s i o n beforehand to Charity is obviously great, but Mont Blanc is b o o s t y o u r not the place for charity fundraising challenges m e t a b o l i s m , for so many reasons. As it states on the Icicle and to make website; “we never knowingly take bookings you feel as if from people who openly inform us that are you’ve earned it involved in a charity or challenge attempt on p r o p e r l y. To Mont Blanc. The reason for this is that we deny yourself any pleasures whilst training will believe it puts the individual under too much only depress you, so make sure that you don’t pressure with a focus on one named summit. ignore this important element in your plans. This could be at the detriment of mountain safety, which is both unprofessional, and has a Mental health is quite a hot topic in the media negative impact on the enjoyment of others in at present, for all the right reasons, though the group. Also many activities insurance do probably it’s not as hot a topic as it should be. not provide any cover for charity ascents of Mont Blanc is not a goal to aspire too, where mountains”. you have any concerns you are trying to work through. Climbing isn’t escapism. It’s quite the It’s an ethos opposite, where your ethics, motivation, and that we even emotions are laid bare. Mountaineering is extend to our hard, often belittling, and it hold no prisoners. UK mountains, It doesn’t care if your job is rubbish, or your where we say; relationship is dull. If you’re fragile, without “ P l e a s e n o t e much substance, climbing can break you. that we do not We’ve seen CEO’s in tears, questioning their p r o v i d e a n y credentials, abilities and achievements. It is g u i d i n g f o r very important that you are climbing Mont charity challenge events in the Lake District (or Blanc for all the right reasons. abroad), such as the National Three Peaks. On ethical grounds we will not, and have never, Mont Blanc - The Hard Facts Page 14 of 15 01539 44 22 17 | www.icicle.co.uk guided any of these types of event. They put HARD FACT #11. Anyone found to be charity intolerable stress on the local infrastructure, fundraising on Mont Blanc, will be removed from communities, and mountain rescue teams”. the course. It’s as you agreed in the terms You’d have thought that these quotes from the website were clear enough, especially the one Two elements do earn a final mention, to end; about Mont Blanc, but we’ve had clients asking their guide to ignore an approaching 1) An ascent of Mont Blanc is beautiful. The storm due to their sponsorship, and even views and mountains are stunning. The trying to stay on the mountain due to the summit ridge is one of the best snow ridges in pressures of their fundraising whilst vomiting the Alps. The achievement of reaching the top and dehydrated through sickness. is one that many climbers find profoundly significant in their lives and careers, as a A couple of people each year even have the benchmark for all future endeavours. gall to ask us to sponsor them, generally in the format of a cheaper or free Mont Blanc trip. 2) Whilst technical rope work and skills can be This would be unfair on everyone else, and we taught in a week, that presumes high fitness, never discount our trips, so everyone is on the high aptitude in mountain terrain, high ability same level paying field. Charity doesn’t have a to learn quickly, and perfect acclimatisation. If home in the mountains, especially one such as you worry that any of these factors could let Mont Blanc where it’s crucial to focus on you down, get extra training beforehand. managing the objective dangers without undue influence. Good luck on your ascent of Mont Blanc!

Copyright 2019 to Icicle Mountaineering Ltd and the author Kingsley Jones. www.icicle.co.uk

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