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Summer 2019 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 130

Countyin high points A challenge for Irish hillwalkers

Climbing in Six 4,000m peaks summited in four days

www..ie Join the squad! Applications are now open for the Climbing Development Squad Mountaineering continues to provide the The Squad is suitable for young climbers who are keen to improve their climbing performance and who regularly book service previously operated by Joss compete in competitions Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks The closing date for applications is Friday, August 30th, 2019 and maps to almost any part of the world. at 10.00pm. All applicants will be contacted on or before For the walker, there is a large collection of Friday, September 20th Cicerone guides and books, or the wider Training sessions will take place at a in selection of books and guides distributed on October 6th, November 10th and December 8th by Cordee which also includes many The cost of a place on the Squad is €120 per climber climbing guides. Books reviewed in the Irish Log can usually be purchased through Joss Books with a members’ discount. To place an order, ring the office on (01) 6251115 or email [email protected]. Photograph: Dave Hunt Dave Photograph: For more info, see the Mountaineering Ireland website page www.mountaineering.ie/youth/talentdevelopment or go to bit.ly/2RKOh9c

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2 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 A word from the edItor

ISSUE 130 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! With the milder registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, weather in Ireland and a heatwave National Sports Campus, in , it looks like summer is , , Ireland. here at last! Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 C Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 Firstly, I must apologise for the delay in mountaineering Ireland has [email protected] getting this issue of the Irish Mountain Log made a small increase to the ❝ www.mountaineering.ie to you. It has been an unfortunate annual subscription fee, an combination of factors that has delayed us Hot Wall in sending the magazine to the printers, increase approved at the AGm. Tollymore Mountain Centre and I am sorry for that delay. Bryansford, Newcastle climbed six 4,000m peaks in four days. County Down, BT33 0PT The Mountaineering Ireland AGM was We also have an account of an interview Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 held in Sport HQ at the end of March and [email protected] I did with Noel Hanna about his ascent of we report on that important meeting on K2 last year, only the second successful pages 5-8. In the report, Murrough Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan Irish ascent of the ‘Savage Mountain.’ The Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) McDonagh, CEO of Mountaineering Ireland, interview also gives an overview of Noel’s [email protected] discusses the motion passed at the AGM Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill other incredible mountaineering to increase the annual subscription, [email protected] achievements. explaining the need for the increase, which Features Editor: Aisling Spain There are several shorter features that [email protected] comes into effect in November this year. make good reading as well, including a Having run a small deficit for the last three The Irish Mountain Log is published by report on what sounds like an excellent years, Mountaineering Ireland needs to Mountaineering Ireland four times a weekend in Joyce Country at balance its books going forward so that it year, in March, June, September, Mountaineering Ireland’s Ecology of December. The material published in can continue to provide the same level of workshop in May. There is also a the Log by the voluntary editorial team services to its members. very good account of the journey to and contributors must not be taken as This issue of the Irish Mountain Log official Mountaineering Ireland policy becoming a Mountain Leader; a report on contains the usual wide range of material. unless specifically stated. training a search and rescue dog; and a In the features section, David Barnes description of a club trip on the . Copy deadline for the Autumn 2019 reports on taking on the County High I will close by hoping that we can all take issue of the Irish Mountain Log is: Points Challenge; Peter Wilson looks at the Friday, August 14th 2019. advantage of the better weather and the importance of the blanket peat that still longer days to safely enjoy our excursions covers much of our uplands; and William Advertising: [email protected] into the uplands in the coming weeks. Nolan describes a trip to the Monte Rosa Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, , where the group he was with Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor [email protected]

Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020

Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are  reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the promotes safety and good practice Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. advice and through the Mountain ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a range of training programmes for To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the Anni huovien enjoying a climb on fair Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please head, Co Antrim, during the walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. meet (see report, page 16)

PHOTOGRAPH PAUl KellAGher

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 3 CONTENTS Summer 2019

Waterways for Health, a walking programme on canal and river routes across Kildare, Carlow and Laois, was launched in March. See story, page 9.

16 Fair Head Climbing Meet News Freja Shannon reports Features 5 Club membership fee 17 Galway Walk Marathon 41 Blanket Peat increase approved & Half-marathon By Peter Wilson Murrough McDonagh reports Anne Brindley reports 45 An Irish ascent of K2 6 Mountaineering Ireland Patrick O’Sullivan interviews Noel 18 Get Climbing Project Hanna about his epic climb AGM 2019: a report Natasza Berlowska reports 8 Increase in Mountaineering 50 County high points odyssey 19 New visitor attractions for David Barnes takes on the all- Ireland club membership fee Avondale Forest Park Murrough McDonagh reports Ireland county high points challenge 19 Climbfest 2019 54 Climbing in the Monte Rosa 9 Walking on water: Alan Tees reports waterways to health William Nolan six 4,000m peaks in four days Jason King reports 20 Women With Altitude Meet Ruth Whelan reports 10 Autumn gathering to be Regulars held in the Comeraghs 22 Sir to give Con Murphy reports 2019 Lynam Lecture 49 Crossword Competition 11 The Patrick O’Sullivan reports 58 Access & Conservation Con Murphy reports 23 Big boost for mountain biking Helen Lawless reports 12 Club Support Meetings 2019 23 2018 sports capital grant 60 Training 13 The hidden Comeraghs 24 Hillwalking Committee set up Jane Carney reports Emily Shakespeare reports 62 Good Practice Guide (No 4) News Features By Clare Sheridan 14 Carlingford Lough Greenway 64 Books opened 26 Training search dogs Reviews of recent books By Pat O’Rourke Sheelagh O’Malley reports 66 The Last Word 15 Mountaineering Ireland 28 Along the Beara Way Irish deaths on Everest and Elbrus Board member elected Vice- Geraldine Dunne reports President of UIAA Mountain 30 The delights of Joyce Country Protection Commission Aine McGirl reports on the recent Ecology of Mountains workshop 33 Why a Geopark project? Trish Walsh reports 34 Becoming a Mountain Leader Fergal Harrington reports Climbing 36 2019 Youth Climbing Series By Jon Henchion 38 2019 Irish Championship Mike Maunsell Damien O’Sullivan reports Noel Hanna on of K2 40 Youth Climbing Team BOARD MEMBER APPOINTED A report by Damien O’Sullivan CLIMBER NOEL HANNA INTERVIEWED 15 TO UIAA COMMISSION 45 4 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected]

Staff Chief executive Officer Newsdesk Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] Hillwalking Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] Hillwalking, access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, [email protected] training Officer Jane Carney, [email protected] training Office administrator Laura Griffin, [email protected] Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, [email protected] Youth Development Officer for Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] Project Coordinator, indoor Climbing/Social inclusion Project Natasza Berlowska, Members of the Board of Mountaineering Ireland with CEO Murrough McDonagh (third from [email protected] right) and members of the organisaton at the AGM at Sport HQ on March 30th.

Get irelanD WalkinG initiative Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking Jason King, [email protected] New club membership fees approved

MOuntaineerinG irelanD At the Mountaineering Ireland AGM in assured access for responsible BOarD OffiCerS March 2019, a motion proposed by the hillwalkers and climbers; President Board to increase the fee payable by club • Strengthen our support for clubs and Paul Kellagher members to €35.00 was passed by a hillwalkers by establishing a new [email protected] substantial majority. There is no increase Hillwalking Committee and ensuring Chairperson in the fee for club members aged under that we have a fulltime Hillwalking Paul Barron [email protected] 23 years, which remains at €20.50. The Development Officer; special rate of €7.60, for a club member • Strive to ensure that mountain BOarD MeMBerS who is under 23 years and is the son or landscapes are valued and protected; Imelda Buckley daughter of a registered member of the • Work with other relevant organisations (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee) same club, also remains unchanged. to tackle upland path erosion; [email protected] This increase will be payable in the • Develop and promote formal and Helen Donoghue next membership year, i.e., from informal training to meet the needs of (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) November 2019. hillwalkers and climbers; [email protected] The discounts for early payment and • Encourage young people to participate Trish Kane for clubs with over 200 members have in all aspects of mountaineering; [email protected] been discontinued. The fee of €35.00 • Continue to ensure we get the highest Colette Mahon covers all of our benefits and services, level of benefits in our insurance policy [email protected] including the insurance cover and receipt at competitive rates; Michael Maunsell of the Irish Mountain Log. It will also no • Offer an annual suite of membership [email protected] longer be possible for members to pay a events (Gatherings, Winter Lectures, Gráinne McLaughlin lower fee by opting out of particular Meets, Environmental Workshops, the (Chair of Hillwalking Committee) benefits or services. Mountaineering Ireland Lynam Lecture, [email protected] The fee for those wishing to pay in Coaching and Training events, and Clare O’Connor sterling will be set by reference to the Club Development initiatives). [email protected] euro to sterling exchange rate in Dawson Stelfox September annually and also possibly If you require more information on this, (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) reviewed pending developments in Brexit. please feel free to contact the [email protected] This increase in the membership fees Mountaineering Ireland office. Thanking Geoff Thomas will help Mountaineering Ireland to: you in advance for your support and (Chair of Climbing Committee) wishing you and yours a very enjoyable [email protected] • Deliver the Strategic Plan for and safe summer on the . 2018-2021, as mandated by our membership in 2018; Murrough McDonagh Continue lobbying for improved and CEO, Mountaineering Ireland

Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan Patrick Photographs: • Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 5 Mountaineering Ireland AGM 2019: a report

This year’s AGM was held at Sport HQ at the National Sport Campus in Paul Kellagher, President of Mountaineering Ireland, addressing the AGM. Murrough McDonagh (CEO, Blanchardstown, Dublin, on Saturday, Mountaineering Ireland) to the left and Mountaineering Ireland Board member Irene Sorohan to the right. March 30th. It was an extremely positive meeting. responsibility. With increasing footfall, subcommittees and representatives on The AGM was chaired by the Chair of the erosion is ever more evident. It is a other bodies. He also paid tribute to the Board of Mountaineering Ireland, Paul challenge that will not go away and one officers and volunteers in our clubs. Barron. Paul welcomed everyone, thanked that requires a coordinated response. Paul then handed over to his fellow them for attending and called the meeting Following a motion at last year’s AGM and Board member, Mike Maunsell, to give the to order. The first items on the agenda the excellent work of the working group, a citation for an award to one of were the adoption of the standing orders Hillwalking Committee has been Mountaineering Ireland’s volunteers, who and the approval of the minutes of the established (see report, page 24). Paul called ‘an unsung hero.’ 2018 AGM. After that, the President of Mountaineering Ireland, Paul Kellagher, Mountain Training Board New Honorary Member gave his annual address. 2018 also saw the successful first full year An Honorary Membership was awarded to Paul began by reflecting that we all go to of operation for the new Mountain Training the present Editor of the Irish Mountain Log the mountains and crags for a wide variety Board of Ireland. The new structure will for services to Mountaineering Ireland. of reasons, for the peace and solitude that allow the sharing of knowledge and Patrick O’Sullivan has spent a lifetime we find there, for the companionship of experience across the island of Ireland to pursuing various aspects of our sport, the like-minded people we meet, or for the the benefit of the candidates on our since starting mountaineering as a serenity, or the challenge, or the sense of training schemes. teenager in North and . adventure they offer. The sense of The introduction of the new Rock Skills Apart from hillwalking and climbing in adventure is a key value in our new scheme at the beginning of this year many different parts of Britain and Ireland Strategic Development Plan, but it has to complements our extremely popular and in the European , he has lived and be closely balanced against the skills we Mountain Skills scheme. It recognises and worked in many different mountainous have or aspire to, in order to pursue our addresses the needs of a rapidly growing areas around the world, including New sport safely. population of climbers, whose introduction Zealand, Nepal and Malawi, spending a In 2018, Mountaineering Ireland to the sport has been mainly through total of twelve years living in Asia and developed the Strategic Development indoor climbing walls. The new scheme will Africa. Plan 2018-2021. This plan resulted from a assist those climbers in making a safe Patrick is retired now but, while he was period of consultation, in face-to-face transition to our mountain and coastal working as a busy medical doctor, he also meetings and through seeking feedback crags, gaining the necessary skills for served as Treasurer of the then from our members online. The plan sets independent climbing. Mountaineering Council of Ireland for six out our purpose, vision, values and five The popularity of this aspect of our sport years, was on the Board for many years strategic pillars for the years ahead. is evidenced by three very popular and has been Editor of the Irish Mountain During the consultation, many of our climbing gatherings that are held annually, Log for the last sixteen years. members emphasised the importance to the Climbfest, the Fair Head Meet and the In accepting the Honorary Membership them of continued access to our Burren Meet. from the President, Patrick expressed his mountains. Without that access, Paul expressed particular thanks to sincere gratitude, saying he was hillwalking and climbing will become Murrough McDonagh and the rest of the overwhelmed by the gesture and that he impossible. Continued free access to our staff, who make all the services we deliver felt he had already got so much from our mountains is at the heart of what we do. to our members possible. He also sport and from being part of The growing pressure on our landscape has acknowledged our funders, Sport Ireland Mountaineering Ireland. resulted in a challenging year. The recent and Sport Northern Ireland, and all our issue of the planned sale of Estate members, who support our activities. Secretary’s report highlights the fragility of the access that Ending his address, Paul stated that our Murrough McDonagh, CEO, then gave the we currently enjoy, but there are now a volunteers are at the heart of everything Company Secretary’s report. The last myriad of other challenges to that access that Mountaineering Ireland does and Mountaineering Ireland Annual General across the country. stands for. He paid tribute to his Meeting was held at the Spring Gathering Our access to hills and crags comes with colleagues on the Board, and the on March 24th, 2018, in the Aherlow House Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan Patrick Photograph: 6 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 The Mountaineering Ireland Board, CEO Murrough McDonagh (at laptop) and ordinary members of Mountaineering Ireland at the AGM at Sport HQ, Blanchardstown, Dublin, on March 30th. Hotel and Lodge, Co Tipperary, hosted by and procedural requirements have been then presented by Board member Imelda Limerick Climbing Club. followed, including reporting and Buckley, Chair of the Finance, Audit and At the AGM, amendments were made to submissions to the Companies Risk Sub-committee, for approval, and the the Constitution, which were notified to Registration Office. Mountaineering auditor was reappointed for 2019. the Company Registration Office. Ireland is a company limited by guarantee Several aspirant clubs were unanimously A new Board was elected and eight and is a sporting organisation supported elected to full membership. They were Hell meetings of that Board were held in 2018. by both Sport Ireland and Sport Northern Fire Rangers, Pathfinders Mountaineering We have continued to review our Ireland. Club, Mourne Youth Climbing Club, Gilford governance policy in the past year and are Murrough concluded by saying that he Youth Climbing Club, Glencree Walkers, currently updating some of our processes felt the Board of Directors had acted at all We Walk Together, Kick Ass Adventures, and structures to reflect best practice in times in the best interest and to the best Barryroe Walking Club, International governance. We have created a new sub- of their capability with regard to the Women’s Club and Shannon Trekkers. committee of the Mountaineering Ireland Mountaineering Ireland organisation, its Paul Barron congratulated them all on their Board, the Finance, Audit and Risk Sub- members and other stakeholders. achievement and wished their members committee. much pleasure as they progressed in our We have met the compliance standards Financial statements sport. of the governance code in 2018. All legal The financial statements for 2018 were Mountaineering Ireland’s statements regarding Safeguarding and Anti-Doping were read and approved by the meeting. Finally, a motion that had been proposed by the Board of Mountaineering Ireland was approved by the meeting, namely that ‘the annual subscription payable by club members in respect of the subscription year beginning on 1 November 2019 and each subscription year thereafter shall be as follows: club member aged 23 years and over - €35.00; club member aged under 23 years - €20.50; where a club member aged under 23 years is the daughter or son of a registered member of that club, a special rate of €7.60 shall apply.’ Mountaineering Ireland’s Annual Review 2018 was also presented at the AGM. The Annual Review provides an overview of key work achieved over the past year and can be read or downloaded from www.mountaineering.ie. A Members’ Forum followed the AGM. The Members’ Forum is an informal meeting, which provides an opportunity Patrick O’Sullivan being awarded Honorary Membership of Mountaineering Ireland by President for clubs and members to items for

Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (AGM), Helen Lawless (Patrick O’Sullivan receiving Honorary Membershhip) Membershhip) Honorary receiving O’Sullivan (Patrick Helen Lawless (AGM), O’Sullivan Patrick Photographs: of Mountaineering Ireland, Paul Kellagher (left) and Board member Mike Maunsell (right). discussion ■ Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 7 NEWSL0G

Increase in Mountaineering Ireland club membership fee

This is just a short note to say thank you to our members for supporting the motion that was approved at the March AGM to increase Mountaineering Ireland’s club membership fee to €35 from November 2019 for the coming 2019/2020 membership year. This is the first increase to Mountaineering Ireland membership fees since 2007. There is no increase in the fee for either club members aged under 23 years (which remains at €20.50) or for club members under 23 years who are the son or daughter of a registered member of the same club (it remains at €7.60). Below is an infographic showing where our funding came from in 2018 and where we spent it to maintain the level of work we do to represent and support hillwalking and climbing in Ireland.

Our 2018 funding came from two main income streams:

Where we spent our 2018 funding:

In maintaining the same level of service to our membership over the past three years, we have incurred a combined financial shortfall of €128,886. Therefore, our focus moving forward has to be on increasing our income, while at the same time expanding our level of activity to deliver on the Strategic Plan adopted in 2018. This includes increased support for hillwalking by establishing a new Hillwalking Committee and by appointing a fulltime Hillwalking Development Officer. For further information on our audited accounts, please visit www.mountaineering.ie/AboutUs/Downloads. We sincerely appreciate your continued support in this process.

Murrough McDonagh, CEO, Mountaineering Ireland

8 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Launching the Waterways For Health programme on the banks of the River Barrow in Co Carlow in March Walking on water: waterways to health

By Jason King (Get Ireland on these paths and, where accessibility of places to walk, Partnerships, is an ideal Walking) possible, to collaborate with and the amenities which opportunity to encourage and support Get Ireland surround us, can enhance our people to see inland waterways Research has shown that Walking in its campaign to get quality of life: this is the as a fitness and recreational engagement with nature more people more active more objective of the programme opportunity. Through the through outdoor activities can often. and the aim for all participants. Waterways for Health have a significant positive As National Programme “ has seen programme, they will develop impact on an individual’s Manager with Get Ireland a huge increase in the number skills to help them stay fit and health and wellbeing. Get Walking, I am excited about of recreational and tourist users healthy for life.” Ireland Walking, Waterways this new programme. We live on and along all our waterways Waterways for Health kicked Ireland and the Local Sports on an island surrounded by in recent years,” says Sharon off on March 8th. We look Partnerships from Kildare, green and blue spaces, which Lavin, Head of Marketing and forward to sharing with you the Carlow and Laois are now provide a plethora of Communication, Waterways successes of the programme launching a walking opportunities to engage with Ireland. “With the provision of and to share our plans for programme on canal and nature for improved health and our Blueway and Greenway further promotion of walking river routes across the wellbeing. This programme will trails, we have now created trails on Ireland’s waterways. three counties. consist of a series of walks for even more opportunities for The Get Ireland Walking The aim of this programme six weeks for three separate people to try new recreational initiative and Local Sports is to immerse participants in a groups and service providers. activities. This also offers Partnerships are supported by natural environment, Families, and addiction and greater health and wellbeing Sport Ireland and Healthy enhancing their walking cardiac care services’ and social opportunities for Ireland. For more information experience, with water participants, will be targeted. many. on the partners and their providing the therapeutic We hope the experience for “For Waterways Ireland, the services see the websites element. A network of walking those who do participate Waterways for Health www.getirelandwalking.ie, trails along the canals provides will be enjoyable and fun. programme, in conjunction www.waterwaysireland.org accessible and fun ways for Walking can result in with our partners in Get Ireland and www.sportireland.ie (to find families, groups, clubs and physical, mental and social Walking and the Local Sports your Local Sports Partnership) ■ individuals to regularly get benefits. Walking gives an out into the outdoors. opportunity for the AUTHOR: Jason King is Programme Manager of This programme will participants to disconnect Get Ireland Walking. Get Ireland Walking is an facilitate this for targeted from the rat race, to be still, to initiative of Sport Ireland, supported by groups with support from engage with themselves and Healthy Ireland and hosted and delivered by Mountaineering Ireland. County Walking Facilitators to chat with friends and family. and coordinators from Local It helps break down barriers FIND OUT MORE: To find out more about Get Ireland Walking, visit the website Sports Partnerships. and lays the foundations for www.getirelandwalking.ie, contact us on Waterways Ireland is keen to growth, better health and (01) 625 1109 or email Jason at promote the activity of walking better wellbeing. The [email protected]. Photograph: Get Ireland Walking Ireland Get Photograph: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 9 NEWSL0G

Members of Kilmacthomas Walking Club in the Comeraghs Gathering to be held in the Comeraghs

The members of Kilmacthomas Walking Club are celebrating their fifteenth anniversary this year and have offered to host the Mountaineering Ireland Autumn Gathering. They are keen to show off the beauty of their home turf, the Comeraghs, and the joys of walking there.

other better-known tourist sites, which is The club encourages its members to a pity. Few other counties have such a improve their abilities in navigation, walk variety of mountain, sea and river leadership and other mountain skills, environments, all within such close while at the same time benefiting from proximity of each other and all so easily improved health and fitness. We believe accessible. The club is fortunate to have that it is very important to stop and Autumn Gathering all of this natural beauty on its doorstep. enjoy the beauty around us. We are The club likes to pride itself on its always grateful to the local agriculture Kilmacthomas Walking Club friendliness, and we accommodate community for their goodwill in allowing walkers of all levels. Companionship is an us access to such marvellous amenities. By Con Murphy (Chairperson, important aspect of the club. Our mantra We have a few weekends away each Kilmacthomas Walking Club) is “It’s not a competition” and we walk at year and we celebrate Christmas and the summer with nights out. In addition, in Kilmacthomas Walking Club, based in a pace that suits all of our participants. most years the club plans a walking trip Kilmacthomas, Co , was We generally alternate between flat abroad. Previous trips have included founded in November 2004, so we are walks and or mountain walks every sections of the Camino de Santiago de approaching fifteen years in existence. We other week. Most of our walks take Compostela and visits to , the currently have approximately sixty between two and four hours. Dolomites and Nepal. members. We walk primarily in the Comeragh and We have also organised night walks in Kilmacthomas is located at the base of Monavullagh Mountains, but we also the Comeraghs, which have been the Comeragh Mountains, in the heart of regularly go to the Knockmealdowns, the dependent on a full moon and clear , halfway between Galtees, and elsewhere, as skies. We are generally always happy to Waterford city and . The club well as doing flat walks throughout the walk in our local mountains. was formed to explore and appreciate the south-east, along river, forest and coastal beauty of the local mountains. routes. The club normally meets on Sunday The club is conscious of its mornings in Kilmacthomas to carpool responsibility not to disturb the before heading to the walk location. Our environment in which we walk and of the walks programme is available on our need to protect and conserve the website and any last-minute alterations are landscape that we enjoy so much. It is notified to club members via Whats App. important that we leave it so that others The natural beauty of the countryside in may also derive the same pleasures as Waterford is often overlooked in favour of we have from it. Photograph: Kilmacthomas Walking Club Collection Walking Kilmacthomas Photograph: 10 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 ridge The Comeragh Mountains in the Comeraghs

seem an easy crossing, but there are lakes in the country, rivers, forests, many obstacles in the soft peat covering, valleys, waterfalls, faces, ridges and such as wet bog, cuttings and rivers, all of rolling hills. There is a waterfall above the which can be energy-draining. Sgilloge Loughs, where the prevailing When visibility is poor, good navigation wind can blow the water backwards to skills are required to safely traverse the form a mist; that is referred to as ‘sean mountains, as there are few suitable bhean ag caitheamh tobac.’ Autumn Gathering landmarks to guide the way. Coumshingaun Lake is the largest lake The Comeragh is an eroding in the Comeraghs. It covers an area of Details of this year’s Autumn blanket bog with numerous peat haggs, about fifteen hectares and has a vertical Gathering for your diary exposed gravel and wet bog areas. The cliff face to the rear, which is 350 metres plateau landscape might be compared to high, almost double the height of the Date: October 18-19th 2019 a lunar-type situation. Ground cover . Most of the lakes in the Base: The Park Hotel, Dungarvan consists principally of grasses, peat, Comeraghs are corrie lakes or coums, Host club: Kilmacthomas Walking Club heather and ferns. which were formed by glacial movement Location: The Comeraghs, Co Waterford The attractions of the Comeraghs are during the last . Not all of the the variety of landscapes that they offer, coums contain lakes, though; Coum Eag, which include some of the finest corrie for example, is a dry coum. ➤ By Con Murphy (Chairperson, Kilmacthomas Walking Club)

The Comeragh mountain range contains a number of peaks, including Monavullagh, Coumaraglin and Lyre Mountains, and stretches from Dungarvan in the south to Clonmel in the north. There are a series of corries along the east and west flanks of the mountain range. The eastern face of the range contains cliff faces and corries, while the western face consists of a more gentle, sloping landscape. The entire mountain range is covered by Map No 75. The mountain range contains only a few peaks, because the summit is a plateau. The highest point is 792 metres and is marked by a cairn, because otherwise it might not be located easily, as there is nothing to distinguish it from the surrounding area. Coumshingaun, a jewel of a corrie in the Comeraghs Once climbed, the Comeraghs may Photographs: Con Murphy Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 11 NEWSL0G

Sgilloge Lough in the Comeraghs

The high-level horseshoe walk above a pleasant walk in Crough (pronounced Corraun, an ex-British Army shooting Coumshingaun is one of the finest walks ‘crew’) Wood, which is a beautiful oak and range on Long Hill, old stone sheep in the south-east of the country and beech forest straddling the Mahon River. enclosures and two disused, ugly MMD includes scrambling, a bit of bouldering Much of the walking in the Comeraghs relay stations. and great views out to sea and inland to is on open ground, and maybe, if you’re The Comeraghs are a most under-used the Galtees and the Knockmealdowns on lucky, you will find some sheep tracks to amenity: it is possible to spend a a clear day. ease the trek. weekend in them without seeing another Adjacent to Coumshingaun are Crotty’s The Mahon, the Clodiagh and the Nire human being. However, the walk into Lake and Crotty’s Rock, which was the rivers rise in close proximity to each other Mahon Falls and the low-level access to hiding place of an eighteenth-century in the plateau above Coumshingaun. Coumshingaun can be very popular, highwayman. Despite many years of Other rivers that rise in the Comeraghs especially at weekends. searching, we have not found any of his include the Glasha, the Glenary, the To date, hillwalking has had little rumoured hidden hoard. To the west of Colligan, the Dalligan and the Tay. adverse impact on the mountain, but Crotty’s Lake is Coum Iarthar, another fine The Comeraghs contain much there are signs that this could change, example of a corrie lake, with a flat evidence of past civilisations, with especially on Coumshingaun ridge. The plateau overhead, a rear cliff wall and a numerous standing stones, stone circles, main activities affecting the mountains lake entrapped by a . There are a barrows and fulachta fiadha. It is are sheep grazing, the burning off of number of smaller lakes downstream from astonishing to think that we can walk heather and peat erosion. Lately, a track the main lake. today in an area that held a thriving has been formed close to the Falls, along Continuing anti-clockwise around the community more than 4,000 years ago. the bank of the Mahon River, that is perimeter of the mountain we come to There are many remains of the built causing increasing erosion. Attempts Coumdula, and further on under environment hidden in the hills, ranging have been made to reverse this impact. Knockanaffrin is Lake Morha. from the above archaeological finds to County Waterford is fortunate to have In the Nire Valley, we find the two deserted villages in Glenary and in such a rich and varied mountain range ■ Sgilloge Loughs, the two Coumalocha Lakes and, further on, Lough Coumfea. Over the mountain is a string of small Club Support Meetings 2019 lakes in Coumtae. Many of these lakes Following on from the success of last year’s Mountaineering Ireland Club Support Meetings, contain small brown trout, which may when we visited Sligo, Bray, Kerry and Derry, we plan to hold more meetings this year. trace their ancestry back to the last Ice The meetings will follow a similar agenda to last year’s, with Ruth Whelan (Hillwalking Age. Development Officer), Helen Lawless (Access & Conservation Officer) and Jane Carney There are few defined tracks in the (Training Officer) from Mountaineering Ireland visiting , Newry, Dublin and Galway to give Comeraghs, but a number of marked ways clubs in each region the opportunity to raise club-related topics with them. The meetings will have been established in the Nire Valley allow clubs to network with other clubs in their region, to share ideas and information. area. There are trailheads at the Nire car Date Location Venue park (S 277 128) and at Curraheen (S 307 25th September Cork The Hibernian Hotel, Mallow, Co Cork 154) that give access to these tracks. 3rd October Newry Mourne Country Hotel, Newry A tarmac path gives access to the 21st November Dublin Irish Sport HQ, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15 waterfall at Mahon Falls, which is a very 27th November Galway Menlo Park Hotel, Headford Road, Galway popular tourist attraction. Close to the Falls, the local community has developed Photograph: Con Murphy Photograph: Refreshments from 7.00pm. Meeting time: 7.30-9.30pm.

12 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 The hidden Comeraghs

By Emily Shakespeare slopes in the earlier maps, the outlines of fields, roads and The research that I recently buildings are clearly shown, completed into changes over whilst the detail on the other time in settlement patterns in side of the boundary is sparse, Kilrossanty parish in the only containing townland Comeragh Mountains has boundaries, streams and been very interesting. By altitude markers. Fifty years comparing historic Ordnance later, the demarcation is even Survey maps with present-day more pronounced: roads and aerial photography and rivers end abruptly on entering Ned Curran’s cottage cartography using GIS, I was the blank, mountainous space. able to create a picture of how The message from these maps 1 km north, Ned Curran’s line of cultivation, the maps settlements in this area have is, therefore, that there was no farmstead also still stands performed an ‘ideological grown, declined or even inhabitation above this line. and, although it is understood filtering’ of what would have disappeared since 1840. However, the plethora of that it was occupied until the been predominantly poorer Doody’s farm and the edge of cultivation as depicted on the 25” OS map 1920s, it was not included in Gaelic Irish families, reflecting the official OS maps. the power and social These omissions or ‘silences’ structures of the time. The on the maps can tell us just as collective memory of this much about society at the invisibility may have influenced time as what was included. By the decision for Ned Curran’s denying the existence of farm to be used as a safe inhabitants living above the house during the Civil War ■

Ned Curran’s farm During the research, it archaeological evidence in the became apparent that the mountains shows that the land historic maps were not telling above this dividing line was the whole story and appear to lived in and was worked.* have excluded dwellings for Temporary dwellings were which there is clear alternative also erected when families physical or anecdotal were evicted and urgently evidence. needed shelter (brácha), which Compiled by the British left no mark on the landscape. military in the 1840s, the 6” Nor, in fact, did those Ordnance Survey map was the dispossessed families who first cartographic endeavour of sought shelter in farmers’ its kind and enabled a outbuildings or in field corners. comprehensive valuation of Booleying, or transhumance, Doody’s farm land in Ireland to create a new is the agricultural tradition of up-to-date tax system. taking cattle up to the high In the 1890s, a more open lands to graze during the detailed 25”-to-one-mile map summer months. Booleying Further reading was created to allow more structures, an important Andrews, JH (2002) A Paper Landscape: the Ordnance Survey in nineteenth- accurate coverage of the land extension of lowland century Ireland. History Classics. Harley, JB (1988) Maps, Knowledge and Power in Daniels, S and Cosgrove, D being sold off by Irish settlement life, were also (eds) The Iconography of Landscape. Cambridge University Press. landlords who had suffered excluded from the official financially during the Famine. maps. AUTHOR: Emily Shakespeare is a PhD Both historic maps have a The floating island of candidate at Waterford Institute of boundary dividing cultivated ‘Doody’s farm’ in the Technology, researching the landscape and uncultivated land on Comeragh townland on the 25” biography of Kilrossanty parish in the mountain slopes, and the map is clearly outlined and its Comeragh Mountains. This research is part- topographic detail differs physical imprint still exists funded by the Irish Uplands Forum and significantly between the two today, including some building Landscape Research Group. Emily thanks all areas. On the cultivated lower ruins. Looking upslope around those in the local community who offered their invaluable knowledge of the area. She can be contacted at [email protected] and on Twitter at @emstar73. Photographs: Helen Lawless (Ned Curran’s cottaage); map and satellite image copyright of Ordnance Survey of Ireland (licences pending) Ireland of Survey Ordnance of copyright image map and satellite cottaage); (Ned Curran’s Helen Lawless Photographs: * http://webgis.archaeology.ie/historicenvironment Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 13 NEWSL0G

Carlingford Lough Greenway opened

the future. The partners in this project operation and agreement of The central aim of the are Louth County Council, the numerous landowners Carlingford Lough Greenway is Newry, Mourne and Down along the route. There were to inspire active travel, as it is District Council and the East thirty-three landowners along planned to be a quality, off- . Together, we the 2013 section of the road, cross-border Greenway have successfully secured over Greenway, and there are at trail between Newry city and €3 million in funding to least twenty-four non- Carlingford, a distance of 20 complete a 20km section of statutory landowners on the kilometres. This project Greenway along Carlingford latest section of Greenway. This primarily utilises disused Lough by the end of 2020. involvement of the landowners railway line and canal bank has developed into a genuine infrastructure along the Last year, we opened broad community buy-in to majestic shores of Carlingford another section of the the Greenway. Lough. Carlingford Lough Greenway The Greenway is the starting The idea started with the from Newry south to Victoria place for so many meaningful original section of Greenway, Lock, located between the conversations, from heritage to which had been developed canal and the tidal Newry sustainability, to simply getting alongside Carlingford Lough in River. better acquainted with this 2013, between Carlingford This cross-border beautiful part of Ireland. Marina and Omeath. This partnership is advancing the The Carlingford Lough proved to be very popular, with remaining 10km of Greenway Greenway is an important over 50,000 users per year on to complete a quality trail from motivator for sustainable By Pat O’Rourke the 6-km trail. This original Carlingford to Newry, linking mobility in the population and Greenway followed the line of with the existing 30km Newry increased partnership across Greenways are being developed the disused , Newry Canal Way walking and cycling the border. The cooperation of in many scenic locations on the and Greenore Railway, which trail. numerous landowners as the island of Ireland that were not was built in 1875/76 and on The longer-term vision is to project has evolved has been a traditionally accessible. These which the last train had complete a quality offroad crucial element in this process. trails are proving to be popular travelled in 1951. Greenway trail from Belfast to It is also opening opportunities entry points to a more active While I am working for Louth Dublin, which we boldly call the for the local population to get lifestyle for people of all ages, County Council, our local East Coast Trail. out and be active, and inspiring supporting their overall health authority colleagues in While significant sections of all of us to consider behavioural and wellbeing and connecting Northern Ireland have been land were in state ownership, changes in relation to our car them with nature in a very real developing a plan for a trail the remainder of the trail was use and ultimately to reduce way. heading south from Newry developed with the close co- our carbon footprint ■ However, while the rural along the banks of the Newry landscapes through which they Ship Canal, which dates from pass are a major part of this the 1740s. We combined our AUTHOR: Pat O’Rourke is an executive Greenways success, their links efforts and successfully technician in the Infrastructure Section of Louth County Council, working on the to urban centres are crucial applied for EU Interreg funding elements in the progress to Carlingford Lough Greenway. He is a member for a cross-border Greenway of the CROWS Hillwalkers and of sustaining the increased project from Newry to Mountaineering Ireland. mobility of the population into Carlingford. Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan (Greenway) O’Sullivan Patrick Photograph: 14 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Mike Maunsell (second from right) representing the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission at the UN World Tourism Organisation’s 4th Euro-Asian Mountain Tourism Conference, held in Germany in March. Also pictured (from left): Dirk Glasser, (Director, Sustainable Development Tourism, UNWTO); Sara Manuelli (Policy & Advocacy Officer, UN Food & Agriculture Organisation Mountain Partnership); Alina Szasz (Coordinator, Carpathian Mountains Sustainable Tourism Platform) and Matthais Jurek (United Nations Environment Programme, UNEP).

Mike Maunsell Mountaineering Ireland Board member Federation of Mountain Guides elected Vice-President of UIAA Mountain Associations (IFMGA). The UIAA Mountain Protection Protection Commission Commission is collaborating with the IFMGA to implement environments. and mountain communities in new projects on training, Some of Mike Maunsell’s work the face of climate change and education and sustainability on the UIAA Mountain how these will impact on guidelines for member Protection Commission society in general. associations and the includes speaking at Some of the recent international conferences, as collaboration and advocacy mountaineering community. well as collaboration and work of the UIAA Mountain The UIAA Mountain advocacy work for mountain Protection Commission Protection Commission is also environments and includes signing up to the five collaborating with the communities. principles of the United international network Mountain Mike was a speaker and Nations Framework Research Initiative and with the Mike Maunsell, a member of panellist representing the UIAA Convention on Climate UN Environment Programme the Board of Directors of at the UN World Tourism Change (UNFCCC) initiative, (EU Environment) on training, Mountaineering Ireland, was Organization’s 4th Euro-Asian Sports for Climate Action. The education and sustainability elected Vice-President of the Mountain Tourism Conference, five principles are: projects. held in Berchtesgaden, Mike contributed to the Union Internationale des Undertake systematic Germany between March 2-5th environmental section of the Associations d'Alpinisme 1 efforts to promote greater this year. His speech and panel (UIAA) Mountain Protection environmental UIAA’s Summer Alpine Training Q&A covered how the UN’s Commission in May this year. responsibility Handbook, which is used by The UIAA, the International sustainable development goals thousands of mountaineers Climbing and Mountaineering and sustainable mountain 2 Reduce overall climate visiting the Alps each year. He Federation, which is based in tourism initiatives can be impact became a Fellow of the Royal implemented in adventure , is the international Educate for climate action Geographical Society in 2014 governing body for climbing tourism to protect local 3 and works as a lecturer in and mountaineering, and communities and fragile Promote sustainable and environmental and geographical environments. 4 responsible consumption represents climbers and science with the Department of Mike was the keynote speaker mountaineers around the world Advocate for climate action Applied Science at Limerick at the international conference on a wide range of issues 5 through communication. Institute of Technology. He is a related to mountain safety, Mountains: Cultures, former Chair of Mountaineering sustainability and competition Landscapes and Biodiversity, As an observer organisation Ireland’s Access and sport. It was founded in 1932 held between May 10-12th. This to the UN Framework Conservation Committee. and represents over ninety conference was hosted by the Convention on Climate Congratulations to Mike member associations and Western Caspian University in Change, the UIAA Mountain federations from sixty-nine Baku, Azerbaijan. It was Protection Commission has Maunsell on his election as Vice- countries on six . The attended by international taken steps towards President of the UIAA Mountain UIAA represents the interests of academics, NGOs, researchers, addressing climate-related Protection Commission. Having over three million individual government officials and UN initiatives within UIAA a representative at that level in mountaineers, to promote the agencies from thirty countries. operations. the UIAA is a great achievement values of safety, self- Mike spoke on the immediate A Memorandum of for a relatively small sufficiency, and sustainability in and long-term issues facing Understanding was recently organisation like fragile mountain environments signed with the International Mountaineering Ireland Photographs: UIAA Photographs: mountaineering and mountain ■

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 15 NEWSLOG

Fair Head Climbing Meet 2019 The classic must-do routes saw a fair amount of traffic at this year’s Fair Head Meet.

By Freja Shannon weather forecast a couple of days beforehand, those who The Fair Head Meet is committed to the weekend everybody’s favourite were rewarded with enough weekend! Well, certainly for sunshine on both the Saturday those of us itching to escape and Sunday to tick routes off the urban jungle on a Friday their ever-growing Fair Head evening in a car filled to the tick-lists. brim with climbing gear, ropes, Classic must-do routes saw sun hats, beer, camping their fair amount of traffic with chairs... you name it. Climbers several ascents of Jolly Roger, gathered from all corners of Hurricane, Cuchulainn, Ocean the world – France, Scotland, Boulevard and Hell’s Kitchen. Wales, Sweden, the States, John Orr cleaned and Australia, we even had a climbed Nightrider, whereby Kerryman this year! – to word spread and Conor celebrate exactly that: Irish McGovern and Paul Collins climbing. snatched an impressive ascent Despite a dubious-looking Photographs: Paul Kellagher Photographs: right after. Michelle Dvorak and Harriet Paul Swail on Wall of Prey, Ridley showed some girl power Fair Head with a double-onsight of Track of the Cat, and many walked in Calvin Torrans and Claire jaw-dropping awe. Speaking of incredible hospitality and for Sheridan’s footsteps on their his hard gritstone and the use of their land; to Paul new route, Heart and Soul, Yosemite ascents, he provided Swail for organising yet which I have to say was more than enough inspiration another memorable weekend definitely my favourite climb of to last us until next year’s in association with Dal Riada the weekend! meet. Climbing Club; and to Jorg The guest speaker, Jorg The evening was rounded off Verhoeven for sharing his Verhoeven, and organiser, Paul with a BBQ and a bit of a party stories. Swail, danced up the iconic to wrap up the weekend. I’m Last but not least, a big Wall of Prey, but that was to be sure there were a few sore thank you to each and every expected, right?! one who attended this year’s Those not quite feeling like heads on the Sunday morning... a success, to say the meet, for respecting the land hand-jamming or long belays and the people within it. Even had a great day out bouldering least! Massive thanks to Sean and the Portaloos weren’t that with Rob Hunter in Murlough smelly! ■ Bay on the Saturday, in the McBride family for their between the odd shower and AUTHOR: Freja Shannon grew up in , swarms of midges. Co Clare, five minutes from the famous Mirror Jorg Verhoeven, an Wall, though she only started climbing when incredibly accomplished she moved to the French Alps at the age of 18. Austrian climber, was invited She has been based there since then, pursuing as guest speaker on the her dream of becoming a mountain guide. Saturday night and left us all in Summer 2019 Galway Walk Marathon & Half Marathon, August 17th

By Anne Brindley (Environment park. Water bottles should be Officer, Galway Walking Club) refilled here, as the highest point lies ahead. A 259-metre “I was high as a kite after I climb takes you to Máméan finished, and I stayed like that (the Pass of the Birds), a small for hours,” says Peter Leonard, chapel and stations, up to your Chairperson of Galway Walking left, which mark the spot Club, about his walking where St Patrick blessed the marathon experience in 2018. West. From there, it is a gentle rd Now in its 23 year, the descent to the last checkpoint. club’s annual walking One last steep climb up the marathon and half-marathon road. Aill na gCat is the cliff- is coordinated by Jerry Lalor, face to the north. From there who is passionate about it is downhill all the way, outdoor activities and meandering along a small particularly about walking in country road with views of the . Maam valley, the meandering From the departure point Bealnabrack River and Joe near the Our Lady of the Keane’s Pub, home of 19th- Wayside Church, the first century Alexander Nimmo, stage takes participants close engineer of roads and to . The second harbours from Sligo Bay to stage takes them along the Galway Bay. old green road, looking across At the T-junction, turn right the mussel farm in the deep for Maam Community Centre, waters of the towards where a warm welcome awaits (814m), the highest participants, hot soup, good Touchscreen Buttons peak in , and ahead Outstanding GPS performance GPS/GLONASS/GALILEO food, tea and coffee, a towards Leenane. Large 3.5" Hi-Res screen Hi-Res OS Mapping certificate and the time to sit, The third stage is the start Very long battery life (16 hours) Barometric altimeter take off their boots, stretch of the half-marathon, near Bluetooth Smart Wi-Fi their toes and relish their Tooreenacoona River. This is a Waterproof (IP68) Shockproof (IK7) achievement! glorious trek up the Inagh Good walking boots, a valley: to your left (east) are packed lunch, a water bottle EXCLUSIVE OFFER the imposing Maamturks, and and wet gear are essential. USE code: IE-25-OFF to your right (west) na Beanna Join us for the most stunning, Beola (the ) with at checkout most scenic walking marathon Offer valid: Thu 13th Jun – Sun 11th Aug (729m), the highest Only for purchases in EUR from satmap.com peak in Co Galway. in Ireland! ■ At stage 4, the FIND OUT MORE: joins the road (time to put on Available online and from leading outdoor stores For further information and satmap.com | [email protected] | +44(0)1372 869 070 the runners?), leading to registration, go to checkpoint 5 in Máméan car bit.ly/2XbivmF. Photograph: Galway Walking Club Walking Galway Photograph: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 17 NEWSL0G Project participants from Firhouse College and Killinarden Community Centre Youth Project at the competition in the Dublin Climbing Centre, Tallaght, in May, together with project instructors

Get Climbing Project

By Natasza Berlowska (Get but also help you to find a safe Climbing Project Coordinator) space and friendship among the climbing community. After a long, cold winter and Most of the participants in colder spring, it looks like we are the Get Climbing Project come finally being blessed with some from really disadvantaged warm weather. However, backgrounds. Seeing them despite the hard-to-resist call build their confidence and to hibernate during the dark self-esteem week after week Some of the Killinarden Community Centre Youth Project participants and windy months, the young through participation in the in Tallaght after receiving their Get Climbing Programme Certificates participants of the Get project is truly an amazing Climbing Project kept working experience. plan to climb together over the muscles, teaches balance and hard to learn new skills and From a climbing point of summer months. improves coordination through become better climbers. view, the participants who In the meantime, the Get fun and challenge. Shortly after Christmas, both engaged most with the project Climbing Project managed to As the school year is ending Firhouse College and mastered the skills so well that reach outside the Dublin area and summer is here, it is getting Killinarden Community Centre they now climb independently and start an eight-week close to the time to start planning Youth Project came back to at their local walls, fighting with programme near Kilkenny in the autumn events. For now, it is Dublin Climbing Centre with grades around the 6c mark. new groups of students, keen to At the end of May, both partnership with Active confirmed that Ballyfermot find out what the rock climbing groups took part in a Connections. The climbing Youthreach will organise a group is all about. competition at the Dublin sessions took place in of participants from the early Climbing is not only about Climbing Centre wall, which Ballykeefe Quarry and targeted, school leavers programme, who swinging on ropes. It is about included both top roping and among others, young people will be introduced to rockclimbing challenging yourself and finding boulder problems. The outcome with developmental co- in October 2019. Apart from that, powers that you did not know was really good, as they not only ordination disorder (DCD). Rock we are hoping to be part of you had; powers that not only climbed very well, but they also climbing is known to be a great European Week of Sports, which help you to fight your fears and made new friendships. therapy tool for people with takes place in the last week of overcome everyday problems Participants from both groups DCD, as it exercises the core September ■

Project participants and trainer at the competition in May Project participants on the climbing wall at the competition in May Photographs: Patricia Kane (main photo and two at bottom of page), Natasza Berlowska (group with certificates) (group Berlowska Natasza page), of bottom at two and photo (main Kane Patricia Photographs:

18 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Concept drawing of the new outdoor café space in Avondale courtyard

New visitor attractions planned for Avondale Re-development plan for and Forest Park receives planning permission Coillte, in partnership with ‘grandfather’ of Irish forestry, • New trails planned to in the first phase. Later phases Fáilte Ireland, has been granted with his extensive tree explore trees from below will include re-development of planning permission to re- collection from around the and above the forest the ‘Big Shed’ into a venue for develop Avondale Forest Park, world, through the Parnell canopy weddings, corporate events, south of Rathdrum, Co years at Avondale and their • An elevated timber lattice concerts, etc. The Big Shed was Wicklow. This will see the family’s vision for a new and walkway 460m in length to ’s rather enhancement of Avondale emerging Irish state, continuing be erected overlooking the extravagant cow-shed, with a House and Forest Park, and set into the early 1900s with the forest canopy and the roof modelled on Brighton Avondale as a major visitor establishment of Irish state valley Railway Station and restored by attraction within Ireland’s forestry in the park. In a new • A state-of-the-art visitor the OPW in the early 2000s. It is Ancient East. Irish Forestry Pavilion, visitors centre on the Great Ride, said that his mother regularly A new orientation space and will see and interact with how with a new restaurant and emptied the cattle from the visitor building connecting to Coillte is innovating in the café in the courtyard shed and held large dances in ‘semi-underground’ and tree- forestry business and leading • A new children’s play area the venue! top walks, open glades in the with new technologies. in the walled garden, with The re-developed Avondale forest for creative arts and play, The project will include: wild and creative play House and Forest Park will be enhanced walking and cycling • Interactive educational spaces throughout the ready for visitors in late 2021 or routes, and a café and technologies to be park early 2022, but in the meantime, restaurant, will all be part of the designed to promote • More car parking and a Avondale remains open, re-developed park. learning about forestry, the one-way indicated traffic providing enjoyable walking and The key theme for the bio-economy and flow, to allow visitors to cycling trails for visitors. project is ‘Avondale: A place of biodiversity access and leave the park For more information see Visionaries.’ This traces the • A ‘living history’ experience in more easily. Coillte’s website and for any origins of the estate from Avondale House to bring to The project will cost queries , please email

Photograph: Coillte Photograph: Samuel Hayes, the life the story of the Parnells approximately €8m to deliver [email protected] ■ Climbfest 2019 at Malin Head

By Alan Tees (Colmcille appears to have been reinforced. the comfort of moving on There were many, many Climbers) Nevertheless, there was plenty coloured holds in a warm and tourists there over the holiday of space for everyone, and the sheltered environment. There weekend and it is a shame they Ireland’s longest-established event kicked off with a ‘come were a lot of experienced cannot fully enjoy the wonders rockclimbing festival, the and try it’ for children at the outdoor climbers and of the west side of Malin Head, Climbfest, took place on the conveniently situated Bambas mountaineers on hand including Devil’s Bridge, due to May bank holiday weekend at Buttress, just below the Tower, throughout the weekend to the recent access restrictions. Malin Head, Co Donegal, hosted by Colmcille Climbers. with short routes like ‘Yoda’s share their experience and show Colmcille Climbers would like There were the usual range of Staircase’ and ‘Vader’s Corner’ beginners the ropes, as it were. to thank Mountaineering Ireland ages and nationalities climbing being easy enough for the Probably Ireland’s finest easy- for its support; Café Bamba for on the spectacular cliffs of climbers and was most ish climb, first completed in the its excellent coffee (perfect for Ireland’s most northerly point. appropriate with the Star Wars 1930s and recently named ‘The warming cold hands); and all Despite the cold arctic winds, Festival taking place locally. Cutting Edge,’ was particularly who helped over the weekend; there were lots of climbers on There has been a huge popular, with many visitors but most particularly we would the cliffs between Hell’s Hole increase in indoor climbing in carrying home euphoric like to thank the Doherty family and the new fence. Ireland and, for this reason, one memories of climbing on the and the Sea View Tavern, who Unfortunately, permission to of the objectives of Climbfest is superb, exposed, knife-edge provided the campsite and the climb on the superb rock to teach the skills of outdoor ridge fifty metres above the sea warmest possible welcome for beyond the fence was not climbing and safety on real rock and posing for the tourists on all who attended Climbfest over forthcoming. In fact, the fence to those who are more used to the last pinnacle. the weekend ■ Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 19 NEWSLOG

A prize-winning photo in the category ‘Action, Humour’ from the competition held during the WWA weekend in Connemara in May. Photo: Freda Cunningham Women With Altitude: making connections The Women With Altitude weekend in Connemara in May was a great success. By Ruth Whelan around the island of Ireland, “Everyone enjoyed participating in with all levels of experience, Women With Altitude is a attended, together with the many activities on offer – such Mountaineering Ireland instructors and the organising initiative to encourage team. as navigation, scrambling, women to take on greater The weekend kicked off hillwalking and climbing.” challenges in with some fun orienteering mountaineering, be they around the forest near the fun and enthusiastic way. Ursula MacPherson, the personal, technical or Killary centre, when all the Although a Powerpoint keynote guest speaker, leadership challenges. participants got the chance projector was provided to entertained and inspired the This year’s Women With to meet and mingle. illustrate her talk, the view captive audience, as she Altitude event was based in Michelle Hughes, a from the centre also allowed brought us through a Killary Adventure Centre, in Mountaineering Ireland Michelle to pinpoint the areas lifetime of adventure and the beautiful landscape of Provider, who lives and works she was talking about right fascinating experiences all Connemara, over the in Connemara, introduced outside the window! over the world, kayaking, weekend of May 17–19th. Over those present to the delights Up bright and early on biking and even flying ninety women from all that the area has to offer, in a Saturday morning, everyone planes, but predominantly enjoyed participating in the mountaineering. The variety many activities on offer, of expeditions and climbs AUTHOR: Ruth Whelan is an Organising which were suitable for all she has accomplished to Committee member of Women With Altitude levels of ability, such as date was truly inspirational. and the Hillwalking Development Officer of navigation, scrambling, After a delightful dinner, Mountaineering Ireland. hillwalking and climbing. The the winners of the photo weather started off looking competition were FIND OUT MORE: To find out more about dubious, but it actually announced. A big thank you Women With Altitude, visit the website remained dry for the entire to the Great Outdoors, who www.womenwithaltitude.ie. weekend. provided a gift for our Photograph: Freda Cunningham Freda Photograph:

20 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 keynote speaker and wonderful spot prizes for our photo competition. To top the evening off, some night navigation enthusiasts, led by Maike Juergens, headed out to explore Connemara by head torch-light. Prior to another day full of activities such as trail running, an environmental walk, scrambling, climbing and a lowland leader taster session, women were put into groups based on where they mainly did their activities. This was to get some feedback from the participants but also to facilitate networking and encourage them to commit to doing something afterwards to progress their skills, based on their experience during the weekend. A feedback survey sent to the participants after the event showed that over 70% of them had never been to a Women With Altitude weekend before. Overall, they felt that the event was welcoming and inclusive for women of all ages, abilities and experience. Ninety per Poppy Wilson instructing at Pat’s Crag cent of respondents either overlooking Killary Harbour agreed or strongly agreed that they had learned new skills award trainees, Orla to the other members of the experience or develop their and that knowledge was Prendergast, Jane Carney, organising team, Colette mountaineering skills of shared. Helen Lawless, Michelle Mahon, Rita Connell, Maike choice. The funding also 85% stated that as a result Hughes, Michelle Casey, Juergens, Grania Peden and enabled four bursary of this weekend they would Poppy Wilson, Julie Reeves, Maeve McKeever, who candidates, who were try more challenging activities Ursula MacPherson, Colette worked seamlessly behind selected from the in hillwalking, climbing and/or Mahon, Trish Kane, Joanne the scenes to make sure applications submitted, the mountaineering. McCandless, Kelly O’Reilly everything ran smoothly. opportunity to participate in Special thanks are due to Smith and Ursula Timmins, On behalf of everyone who the event for free. the Killary Adventure Centre whose enthusiasm, attended the Women With Depending on the staff, who were exceptionally knowledge and expertise Altitude weekend, I would availability of funding, we friendly, efficient and encouraged and inspired like to thank Sport Ireland hope that we can make next accommodating over the participants to further for providing funding to year’s tenth Women With weekend. Thanks also to our develop their own skills. support and subsidise this Altitude event even more wonderful instructors and Finally, a special thank you event to enable women to special. Watch this space! ■

The Women With Altitude weekend was supported and subsidised by Sport Ireland. Great Outdoors provided photo competition prizes and a gift. Photograph: Susie Barry Photograph:

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 21 NEWSL0G

Sir Chris Bonington to give the 2019 Lynam Lecture

birthday in 2014 by repeating his climb of the Old Man of Hoy, in the Orkneys. Sir Chris knew and they had a shared passion for the mountains. Tickets and further information about this year’s Lynam Lecture Mountaineering Ireland Lynam Lecture, which promises to be Date: Wednesday, fascinating, will be available on December 18th, 2019 www.mountaineering.ie soon. Venue: Chartered There will also be more Accountants House, information in the Autumn 2019 47-49 Pearse St, Dublin 2 issue of the Irish Mountain Log ■ Joss Lynam Sir Chris Bonington By Patrick O’Sullivan

The Mountaineering Ireland mountaineers. We are pleased Lynam Lecture was to announce that this year’s inaugurated in 2011 in the lecture will be given by the Challenge walk for over-70s legendary British mountaineer memory of Joss Lynam, one A group of hikers from the Irish Ramblers Club is organising an Sir Chris Bonington. of Ireland’s best-known over-70s sponsored challenge walk in on Sir Chris started climbing in mountaineers, in recognition September 26th. To our knowledge, this is the first time that an of his enormous 1951, at the age of 16. He over-70s challenge walk has taken place in Ireland. achievements in hillwalking, made the first British ascent There are four different grades to suit most over-70s: 10km, climbing and mountaineering of of the 15km, 20km and 22km walks, with corresponding ascents in Ireland and overseas over in 1962 with Ian Clough, and from 350m to 1,000m. some sixty years. During his led the first ascent of the The club wants to encourage older hikers to continue to lifetime, Joss initiated South Face of in enjoy the mountains, and for new over-70s to take up the numerous developments in 1970, the most difficult climb challenge and enjoyment of engaging with the hills. these areas of our sport in achieved in the Himalaya at Their motto is “Don’t let the old person in.” The club members Ireland and he was the that time. aim to try to keep fit and healthy for as long as they can. inspiration for a number of Chris then led the generations of Irish successful expedition making INFORMATION AND BOOKINGS: For more information and a registration form, please contact [email protected] mountaineers. the first ascent of the South ■ Since it was inaugurated, West Face of Everest in 1975, the Mountaineering Ireland and he reached the summit Lynam Lecture has been himself with a Norwegian delivered by leading national expedition in 1985. and international Sir Chris celebrated his 80th

Chris Bonington and Pertemba on the 1975 expedition to climb the SW Face of Everest Photographs: Colm Wright (Joss Lynam) (Joss Wright Colm Photographs: 22 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Photograph: Victor Lucas Summer 2019 Summer hillwalking and climbing. The purchase equipment to be used for Shane Ross TD. for Transport, Tourism and Sport, announced recently by the Capital Programme allocated €51,000 in the Mountaineering Ireland has been 2018 sports capital grant drawn down world. biking destinations in the one of the best mountain funding to develop Ireland as Fáilte Ireland, Coillte, Big boost for mountain biking in Ireland Michael Ring, TD, Community Development, Minister for Rural and was announced by the Proposition for Rural Ireland International Mountain Biking An investment of €13.5m for international mountain biking centres and trails is announced Trail, Roundwood, Co Wicklow Two riders on the Ballinastoe The allocated funds will be used to In February, an in partnership with has secured as one of allocation 2018 Sports Minister located in Ballyhoura at these centres. over 300 kilometres of trails across seven counties, and four national trail centres visitor facilities. over €13.5m in trails and project will see investment of Development Fund. Rural Regeneration and the successful bids under the The trail centres will be The project will comprise been allocated €2,829 Sligo Mountaineering Club has been allocated €3,507 and Tullow Mountaineering Club have been allocated €10,429, funding. affiliated clubs have received three Mountaineering Ireland Ireland’s allocation of €51,000, meets, competitions, delivery of training sessions, Mountaineering Ireland in the equipment will be used by In addition to Mountaineering Dublin Cliffhangers The etc. ■ Ballinastoe (Dublin/Wicklow). (Offaly/Laois) and Ticknock & (Sligo), Slieve Blooms (Limerick/Cork), Coolaney next 10 years. over three million over the generate visitor numbers of significant, with visitors of the development will be areas, the economic impact in rural and some remote has The project aims to As the centres are located Some para-climbing equipment from Equal Adventure their area. increased visitor numbers in country will see the effect of communities around the An estimated twenty than €22 million per annum. generating a spend of more completed to the public as it is development will be opened each site or additional trail over a three-year period and The project will be delivered Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish ■ 23 NEWSL0G

The recently established Mountaineering Ireland Hillwalking Committee (from left): Roy Madden, Louise Nolan, Declan Murphy, Grainne McLaughlin, Margaret Collins, Marian Wallis, Ruth Whelan, Russell Mills, Chris Evans. Missing from photo: Veronica Kelly. Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking Committee Following a motion at Mountaineering Gráinne McLaughlin supporting all members by coordinating Ireland’s 2018 AGM from the Irish Gráinne McLaughlin services, gatherings and events, while also Ramblers Club to establish a (Chairperson) has been supporting the development of existing and hillwalking committee, a hillwalking a member of the Irish new clubs. working group was established. Over Ramblers Club since To better align Ruth’s role with the next seven months, the working 1995 and has served on Mountaineering Ireland’s current strategic group developed terms of reference the committee of that objectives, she will continue to be and a workplan for the proposed club, both as New responsible for the above, but her role will committee. These were approved by Members Secretary now focus on developing hillwalking and the Board of Mountaineering Ireland and as Training Officer. supporting hillwalking members as the new in January 2019, and a Chairperson She is retired and enjoys spending as Hillwalking Development Officer. and a Secretary were appointed. much time as she can hiking, both in When Ruth first moved to Dublin, she Committee members were Ireland and abroad. completed the Four Peaks Challenge with recruited by an invitation to the Gráinne joined the Board of some colleagues to raise money for charity. membership to express interest in the Mountaineering Ireland in 2018 and That cemented her love for mountains, by role and to outline their relevant emphasising the companionship, chaired the working group which drew up experience. After some deliberation, remoteness and tranquillity that hillwalking the terms of reference and workplan for eight members were selected and the offers. Her main areas for walking these days the newly formed Hillwalking Committee. Hillwalking Committee held its first are around Wicklow and in the Comeragh She is looking forward to working with her meeting on March 21st, 2019. Mountains. She has also climbed Kilimanjaro committee colleagues on interesting and The members of the new and walked and climbed in the French, relevant issues during her time as Hillwalking Committee are from a Italian and Austrian Alps. wide geographical spread and chairperson and hopefully contributing collectively offer a broad range of positively to the development of Chris Evans skills and experience. hillwalking in Ireland, both now and into Chris Evans has been an Gráinne McLaughlin (Board the future. active and enthusiastic Member and Chairperson) and Ruth hillwalker for the last Whelan (Mountaineering Ireland staff Ruth Whelan fifteen or so years, member and Secretary) are joined on Ruth Whelan following a career in the committee by Chris Evans, (Secretary) was teaching sport and fitness Declan Murphy, Louise Nolan, Mountaineering in further education. After Margaret Collins, Marian Wallis, Roy Ireland’s Membership being introduced to the Madden, Russell Mills and Veronica Development Officer hills by colleagues from Kelly. and for the past work, he decided to Short biographies follow, so that five years her complete the Mountain Leader training and members can see the range of responsibilities have then went on to complete the then new Hill experience that the committee included increasing the membership of and Moorland Leader qualification at members bring to their role. both hillwalkers and climbers and Tollymore National Outdoor Centre in 2014. Photograph: Helen Lawless (group photo) (group Helen Lawless Photograph: 24 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Since then, Chris has been teaching Margaret Collins running a busy Mountaineering Ireland navigation and other outdoor skills to Margaret Collins – Mags member club. He has hiked all over the students in the Banbridge, Co Down, to some people – started world and enjoys challenge walks, having campus of Southern Regional College in walking in the Slieve particularly fond memories of the Glover, Northern Ireland. Chris hopes that, Blooms with her father the Galtees Walk, the Lug Walk and the Art during his time on the Hillwalking and her family when she O’Neill Walk. Committee, he will be able to represent was very young. In 2003, Roy works as an IT manager and takes a the opinions of young people and to she joined Glenwalk lot of interest in how his club presents develop structures that facilitate and Hillwalking Club and for itself online via its website and social encourage their participation in approximately twelve media. He is interested in working with the hillwalking. years hiked with them every second new Hillwalking Committee and in weekend, becoming a walk leader. assisting Mountaineering Ireland to Declan Murphy Margaret did MS1 and then MS2, and enhance the contents of its website, and Declan Murphy also taught on Glenwalk’s map-reading its social media presence, to better appeal started hillwalking weekends. She really enjoyed her time to hillwalkers. with his parents, who with Glenwalk and met many like- were enthusiastic minded people there. She has hiked with Russell Mills hikers, and continued friends all over Ireland and in Europe. A native of the Welsh with it in the scouts In 2008, Margaret completed the borders, Russell Mills and later with Camino, walking on her own the 800 in love with the local friends, mainly in the kilometres to Santiago de Compostela. In hills at an early age, Dublin and Wicklow 2015, she left Ireland and travelled enjoying the quiet area but also in the west of Ireland and around South and Central America and solitude of wild places, in the English . also went to New Zealand. She returned whether they be Since his retirement from teaching in to Ireland in 2018 and got a job as a mountains, valleys or 2014, Declan has been hillwalking hiking tour guide in Kerry. She is forests. Having spent regularly with the Irish Ramblers Club. passionate about hiking and over forty years discovering the mountains He has seen first-hand the huge conservation. of Wales, Scotland and Europe, Russell is changes in the sport: the numbers on now based in Dublin, where for the last the hills; the many paths and Marian Wallis seven years he has been a full-time hiking boardwalks; the erosion caused by Marian Wallis is a native of guide and Mountain Skills provider. He hillwalkers; and the advances in the , a has also served on the committee of the technology with downloaded routes former member of Limerick Hillwalkers Club for five years and is and GPS. He feels that the map and Climbing & Walking Club, currently their Training Officer. compass, and basic navigation skills, are and currently a member of Russell joined Mountaineering Ireland’s not valued or used as much now as the Ballyhoura Bears. She Hillwalking Committee to represent they should be. has worked, travelled and Mountain Skills providers and commercial walked in Africa, as well as guides, as well as to try to make a personal Louise Nolan in Europe and Ireland. For most of her life contribution to the future of hillwalking in Louise Nolan is an Marian has been actively involved in Ireland. active member of a agriculture. Dublin hillwalking club As both a landowner in a scenic area Veronica Kelly and has been a and an avid walker, Marian is interested in Veronica Kelly is a member of the future of hillwalking in Ireland as a member of Wexford Hill Mountaineering Ireland co-operative enterprise between those Walking and for several years. She is who work the land and those who seek Mountaineering Club a former Irish National to spend their leisure time in the and has been an active Rally and International countryside. For her, walking in the hillwalker with the club Rally Group N Champion, and is now a mountains is a celebration of inner for ten years. Currently regular hillwalker, hiking five to six times peace, tranquillity and a ‘oneness’ with she is the Club a month in the mountains of the 32 creation. Secretary. Veronica is a counties. psychology lecturer at Louise feels that her experience and Roy Madden the Institute of Technology, Carlow. passion for the sport make her believe Roy Madden has been Her interest is in the area of positive that, without a plan, hillwalking will not an active member of psychology and health and wellbeing. develop in a way that is sustainable for the Wayfarers for Being in the outdoors is an important way the mountains or for the people who fifteen years and has to benefit wellbeing psychologically. love to hike in them. Access and the been on their Veronica hopes that through her role on environment are important issues for committee for eight Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking her and she believes that we must years, gaining a good Committee she can contribute to more encourage hillwalking with insight into the people discovering the benefits of responsibility. challenges involved in hillwalking ■

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 25 SEARCH AND RESCUE DOGS

The SARDA Ireland team on a training day TRAINING SEARCH DOGS The Search and Rescue Dog Association, SARDA Ireland, has two newly qualified search and rescue dogs. Sheelagh O’Malley reports on their work and how they are trained to mountain rescue standard.

ountain Rescue with their family or work, or in nature and a massive work the stock test, its search Ireland is busier their own time in the drive. training is discontinued. than ever as an mountains, to respond to a I have been a member of the If these hurdles are cleared, ever-growing callout. Mountain however, the fun part for the number of They do that because, firstly, Rescue Team for eleven years dog starts in earnest. Having peopleM take to the hills for there is a need for the service, now, and my recently qualified developed the dog’s play drive outdoor pursuits, inevitably and secondly, because they search dog, Rowan, is a very as much as possible through resulting in an increasing love it. All mountain rescue cute little collie cross, and regular games with a toy, we number of emergency callouts. teams are made up of a wide fiercely smart. then train the dog to bark for Any member of a mountain variety of people from all walks Rowan came to me through their reward. This is the basis of rescue team who trains and of life, each bringing their own a dog rescue organisation, the find sequence, which is responds to callouts has particular skills and experience Protecting Pound Dogs, which built up bit by bit. signed up to a way of life to the team. I contacted through social Ultimately the sequence that involves Jarlath Folan, from media when looking for a consists of the dog locating the dropping Galway Mountain suitable dog to train. During ‘casualty’ by their scent in the whatever they Rescue Team, is a my two years with him, Rowan air and then returning to the are doing perfect example of this. has changed from being a handler and indicating the find Jarlath has been a nervous little fellow into a by barking, after which the dog member of the Galway friendly, smart and talented brings the handler to the team since 1997 and he search dog. ‘casualty.’ trained and qualified his What Syd and Rowan both Qualified dogs are willing to first search dog, Hugo, have in common is their work for hours on end – just to with the Search and rigorous training, which starts get a game of tug or fetch! Photographs: Sheelagh O’Malley Collection Sheelagh O’Malley Photographs: Rescue Dog Association, with basic obedience training Meanwhile, the handler’s job is SARDA Ireland, in 2010. and then continues with to plan the search, to direct the Hugo was a lovely testing with livestock, what we dog and to make sure that the springer spaniel. He loved call stock-testing. search area has been covered his job and, together with As we obviously cannot completely. Jarlath, responded to deploy dogs that have an SARDA Ireland dogs are callouts all over Ireland until interest in sheep, cattle or tasked with a huge variety of his retirement in 2014. deer, search dogs are trained situations, such as helping to Syd, Jarlath’s newly by their handler to ignore find missing dementia patients qualified search dog, is a these animals; they are then and lost or injured people in Syd, owned by Jarlath Folan handsome black stock-tested by sheep different environments. They labrador with a soft farmers. If a dog does not pass can also be used for locating 26 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 “Search dogs help recently deceased individuals. Air-scenting search dogs are find lost or injured capable of covering large areas people and missing of ground very quickly and do not require daylight to work. All dementia patients” our dogs are qualified to qualified dog teams: Mick ‘mountain rescue search dog Grant with his search dog standard’ which means that Ziggy; Louise Burgoyne with they can work in any type of Lyla; and Éadaoin O’Gorman area, be it coast, forest, with Murphy. These three farmland or high ground. As handlers are all members of working in the mountains is obviously the most technically the South Eastern Mountain challenging of these terrains, it Rescue Association (SEMRA). is the focus of a lot of our SARDA’s dog teams generally training. This also means that respond to taskings from An any handler of a mountain Garda Síochána, the Irish rescue search dog must be a Coast Guard and other ‘mountain-ready human.’ mountain rescue teams. Training a search dog is a All these dogs will continue hugely rewarding, time- to work for as long as they are consuming and sometimes physically able and, after their perplexing experience. After retirement, they will live out training Rowan I have come to their days as members of our the realisation that the dog is families. Just in the last couple actually training the handler, of years we have sadly lost two not the other way around. qualified dogs due to illness, and another as a result of their We are just a bit slow to Sheelagh O’Malley training Rowan, her search and rescue dog understand the dog. It is retirement. Dexter was an basically really simple: they amazing retriever cross who want to find the person in the was trained by Gerry Tobin of super team, and we all learned search dogs. Thankfully, we have area because they love the SEMRA. This dog team was a lot from them. RIP, Lily. a good few promising pups reward, which usually comes in magic to watch in action and Jarlath’s dog Hugo, by then progressing through the training the form of a game of tug or made it all look deceptively retired, passed away in 2017 stages at present. playing with a ball. easy. RIP, Dex. and is fondly remembered by We cannot train without Rowan and Syd are part of a Catherine Kelly lost Lily to a all that were lucky enough to volunteer ‘dogsbodies,’ those bigger team. SARDA Ireland sudden but devastating illness. meet him. Pauliina Kauppila remarkable individuals who hide currently has three other Catherine and Lily were a (who is a member of in their bivvy bags on a cold Coast Guard), mountainside or in a forest retired Koiru (affectionately while the dog teams go about known as Granny Pup) two locating them. Some go on to years ago after 7½ years of train their own dog, but some service. It is not polite to talk do it simply to support SARDA about a lady’s age, so let’s just Ireland, with no intention of ever say Koiru is happily retired in training a dog. Alun Saunders, a beautiful west Cork. member of Bray Strollers Because the working life of a Walking Club, is a perfect dog is relatively short example of this. He is Rowan’s (depending on the dog’s breed biggest fan, and Rowan loves and conformation), we finding him more than anyone continually support the next else. generation of trainee dog We also owe big thanks to all teams. In order to keep the landowners, Coillte and the whole SARDA team vibrant and National Parks and Wildlife Jarlath Folan with Syd motivated, it is vital that we Service, who give us permission (right) and another keep training up and qualifying to train on their lands ■ search and rescue dog

➤ Sheelagh O’Malley is a member of the Search and Rescue Dog Association, SARDA Ireland. She is also a member of the Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Team.

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 27 THE BEARA WAY ALONG THE BEARA WAY

The Clody Loafers spent a week walking on the Beara Way last summer. Geraldine Dunne reports.

e are a small own cars. She contacted group of Christopher Stacey of enthusiastic Footfalls Walking Holidays walkers from and asked him if he could Bunclody, Co arrange a walking holiday Wexford,W who meet each week package for the group. He for walks on Mount arranged the trip’s itinerary, and in the surrounding areas. accommodation, transport We call ourselves the Clody and guiding information, and Loafers. We are all members of he joined the group for the Mountaineering Ireland and week. Clody Loafers had Ardnakinna Point Lighthouse, Bere Island Tullow Mountaineering Club. previously walked with During one of our regular Christopher on , th th walks, we decided that we Sunday, 24 of June Tuesday, 26 of June and Pike, so Bere Island: walk 12 km; would like to arrange a week’s we were confident that we ascent 420 m walking in Ireland for the group. We changed the itinerary would have a well-organised We decided to attempt the We enjoyed a relaxed walk again this day, when the group walking holiday. Beara Way at the end of June. around Bere Island, with a decided to skip the to pleasant, short ferry trip over The Beara Way covers a Allihies section of the Beara rd and back. We walked along old distance of 196 kilometres in Saturday, 23 of June Way and go over to Dursey abandoned roads and grassy the counties of Cork and Kerry Our journey began when the Island by the cable car, which tracks through a rocky on the most south-westerly Footfalls minibus picked up takes up to six people. That is wilderness, which led us to tip of Ireland. It goes through our group of fourteen walkers the only way to get to the Ardnakinna Point Lighthouse rugged landscape, which is from Bunclody and island from the mainland. and on to the ruins of a breathtakingly beautiful, and transported us to As we walked on the island, Napoleonic Signal Tower. Such reaches out into Bantry Bay Castletownbere, Co Cork, we came across the ruins of towers were built around 1806 and the Atlantic Ocean. where the group stayed for Kilmichael Church and to protect the south and west Our walk leader, Catherine two nights in a local graveyard, and a signal tower coasts of Ireland by keeping offering beautiful views of the Cowman, made enquiries guesthouse. After we arrived in watch for any sign of invading Skelligs to the north and Mizen about transport and Castletownbere, we decided ships. From there, we had Head to the south. Another accommodation, as we we would like to visit Bere magnificent panoramic views view from Dursey Head was of

Photographs: Geraldine Dunne Collection Geraldine Photographs: wanted to avoid bringing our Island the next day. of Bantry Bay and Bearhaven Calf Island with its disused Harbour. The seascapes were lighthouse. stunning in the clear sunshine Dursey was another and the sea breezes were picturesque island and the appreciated. walking was relaxed. After returning to the mainland, we Monday, 25th of June had a quick, breezy walk Glengariff-Adrigole: walk 18 km; around to Garnish Point, ascent 280 m finishing at Garnish pier, with a We started our walk from chance to cool our feet in the Glengariff and went through clear Atlantic water. A few of the nature reserve, which the group even took a swim. covers some 300 hectares, with the dominant habitat Wednesday, 27th of June being old oak woodlands. We Allihies-: walk 12 km; took a short detour to Lady ascent 490 m Bantry’s Lookout, where we The group set off from Allihies, had some wonderful views, where we walked past the and finished in Adrigole on the disused mines on the Allihies Members of the group take a break between Castletownbere and Eyeries shores of Bantry Bay. Copper Mines and Mountain 28 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 “We had beautiful views across Coulagh Bay to the Kerry coastline.”

Mine Trail. This trail continues along old disused roads, winding by the side of Miskish Mountain to beautiful views across Coulagh Bay, the River and beyond to the Kerry coastline. The temperatures were climbing and the highland breezes were welcome as we walked on the lower tracks between biodiverse ditches View across Coulagh Bay to the Kerry coastline on the profuse with fuschia, foxgloves, honeysuckle and week’s walk, with border into , onto Cloonee Loughs Lower, ferns, which trapped the temperatures of around 30 walking along old mountain Middle and Upper, and heat. The walk finished in the degrees. A few of the group roads with Keecragh and Tooth Inchiquin Lough. pretty village of Eyeries. knocked 3 km off the start by Mountains in sight, and further After walking for a while, we Later on that evening, we avoiding the coastal loop on to a group of standing saw the Glaninchiquin waterfall met up with a Tullow down to Pallas Strand. stones known as Cashelkeelty in the distance. Following the Mountaineering Club group, The group continued Stone Circle. trail around to the left of who were staying and walking inland along by Lough We continued along this trail, Derrysallagh, it was not long till walking on the Beara meeting a narrow path lined we reached the start of our soft Fadda (Long Lake). As we were peninsula for the week. We with rhododendrons following descent, eventually meeting up about to approach the quaint swopped stories and enjoyed our way down into a forest, and with the main coastal road and village of Ardgroom, we had the evening together. eventually crossing over the finally reaching our destination, beautiful views of Ardgroom Croanshagh River. Not far from crossing over the bridge into Thursday, 28th of June Harbour, Kenmare River and here we arrived at the village of Kenmare town. Eyeries-Lauragh: walk 27 km; across to the MacGillycuddy Lauragh. The minibus brought ascent 950 m Reeks. After a short break us to our accommodation in Sunday, 1st of July The group left early for this, there, we soldiered on in the Kenmare. Return to Bunclody

Photographs: Geraldine Dunne Collection Geraldine Photographs: the longest stage of the heat and crossed over the Overall the standard of the way- Friday, 29th of June marking on the Beara Way was Lauragh-Kenmare: walk 19 km; excellent and the route was ascent 987 m easy to follow. The vegetation Because of the heat, we was lush and colourful, and the decided to take 5 km off the scenery was spectacular. Each road-walking at the start of the village we passed through had day’s walk. Our driver dropped its own characteristics and all of us off at Drombohilly Lower, the houses were decorated in near Tousist, to start with the vibrant colours. soft mountain underfoot. This The weather was exceptional, final walk of the week included making the underfoot ground the highest and toughest climb conditions a lot drier than usual in hot conditions, onto and, in the evenings, we had Knockgarriff Mountain. some spectacular sunsets. The The views from the top were accommodation, food and west spectacular, across to the Cork hospitality that were Kenmare River, looking down arranged for us were excellent ■

➤ Geraldine Dunne has been a member of Mountaineering Ireland and of Tullow Mountaineering Club for the past seven years and is currently the club’s Environmental Officer. She walks most Wednesday nights with the club – around , Kilbrannish, the Blackstairs, Brandon Passing the disused copper mines between Allihies and Eyeries Hill, Lugnaquillia and other parts of Wicklow.

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 29 MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT

THE DELIGHTS OF JOYCE COUNTRY

Aine McGirl reports on a very successful weekend of learning about the mountain environment, enjoyed by club representatives and training providers.

he Joyce Country and Western Lakes Top: Participants Education Centre and voluntary chairperson of the Geopark project area played host to on the Ecology of Geopark project. Mountaineering Ireland’s Ecology of Mountains Parts of this community are under threat. On our Mountains workshop in May this year and weekend visit to Joe Joyce, sheep farmer and sheepdog what a playground we had for the overlooking the breeder, he spoke of the vanishing way of life for weekend!T From to plants and birds to the Srahnalong Valley upland sheep farmers, which caused him to diversify array of human interactions with the landscape, it on . into an area of interest, breeding pedigree sheepdogs. was all there for us, an enthusiastic group, eager to We were entertained, not only by Spot, being expertly explore, led by experts through an interesting and Below: Identifying manoeuvred to herd sheep around various obstacles, unique landscape. The entire weekend felt like being flowers on the but also by the dogs not asked to work, as they on a guided treasure hunt of the flora, fauna, geology, limestone bounded around their pens clearly communicating history and archaeology concentrated in this area. pavement in ‘pick me, pick me.’ The base for our weekend was the lovely village of Clonbur Woods. Clonbur, in the shadow of Binn Shléibhe. Community pride in the village is obvious, not least in the venue for our evening talks, the wonderfully restored All Saints Heritage Centre. Involvement of the local community is fundamental to the Geopark group’s work towards sustainable development of the area. The theme of community connection is epitomised by Trish Walsh, Director of Petersburg Outdoor

➤ Aine McGirl is an avid hillwalker, a Mountain Leader and a member of several walking clubs across Ireland. She loves exploring and learning about nature and is studying environmental science at UCD. She has recently joined Mountaineering Ireland’s Access & Conservation Committee. Photographs: Harm Deenen (overlooking Srahnalong Valley), Helen Lawless (identifying flowers) (identifying Helen Lawless Valley), Srahnalong Harm Deenen (overlooking Photographs: 30 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 We were charmed by the sheepdog puppies at just three weeks old, and Joe kept a close eye to ensure none were spirited away inside a rucksack! Rock formations The geology of the Joyce Country is complex and, over the weekend, various rock formations were interpreted for us by Trish Walsh, Kevin ‘Geo’ O’Callaghan from GMIT and Joyce Country geologist Benjamin Thébaudeau. The limestone pavements in Clonbur Woods, with their unusual egg-box pitting, are a remnant of Ireland’s tropical history (when the lay in the lower latitudes). The colourful chert-containing boulders and the amazing pillow formations on Bencorragh, near Finny, point to the processes of mountain-building and volcanic eruptions that are being replicated today under the Top: Trish Walsh little envious, of her job and the breath-taking spots she Pacific Ocean. explaining the must access to record these species. Sadly, her Evidence of the last Ice Age abounds in the many geology of wonderful photos of adults and little fluffy chicks were corrie or cirque lakes in the area. Joyce Country; as close as we got to raptors over the weekend. It is upon this geological base that the blanket bog note the egg- of the area formed. High rainfall caused iron in the soil box pitting of Plantlife to accumulate in a layer called an iron pan. This the limestone Being up close and personal to plantlife was the impermeable layer led to waterlogging and the pavement. highlight of my weekend and, with Rory Hodd, we were formation of peat. The iron pan layer could be seen expertly led on our treasure hunt. From flowers to clearly where a profile of the peat and underlying soils Below: A grasses to mosses and liverworts, the rare and unique was exposed. We also saw pieces of charcoal under volcanic plant life of our uplands was identified in abundance. the iron pan, suggesting that the forests which outcrop with In a short few steps seven different grasses were covered the area thousands of years ago had been red and green shown to us. These included mat grass, which is full of burned. chert. silica, so sheep don’t graze it. There were lots of With input from GMIT’s Orla Prendergast, Trish flowering plants, including the ubiquitous tormentil, as Walsh shared her passion for the history of the people well as the occasional lousewort. ➤ of the area as we searched for booley huts, used when our ancestors grazed their cattle on the hillside during the summer months. It is believed they made butter and a soft cheese as a means to preserve the milk, reminding me of my childhood book, Heidi, and her times in the hills herding goats. Birdlife The sheep farmers in the area are not the only endangered species, as the variety of birdlife in these uplands is low. Ecologist Jackie Hunt gave us three ways to spot birds, either in the flesh, from their song or call, or by their droppings. Skylarks, meadow pipits and wagtails made an appearance, but just one snipe revealed itself. Red grouse droppings were found on the plateau of Maumtrasna, where a golden plover was also heard calling. The limited birdlife is reflected in the poor survival of predator birds in the area, despite the passionate work of National Parks and Wildlife Service ranger Irene O’Brien and her colleagues. Irene described lots of adversity and adventure in her role, recording, ringing and monitoring iconic species such as merlin, peregrine, kestrel and hen harrier. I was in awe, and a Photographs: Helen Lawless (group photo), Jimmy Barry (red and green chert) and green (red Barry Jimmy photo), (group Helen Lawless Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 31 MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT

I learned that heath milkwort was also known as Top left: Kevin We also saw the randomness and precariousness ‘Na deirfiúiríní’ or the four little sisters, referring to the examining soil of nature, with the common haircap moss that is four different colours of flower – blue, white, pink and layers so as to only fertilised when drops of water carrying the male mauve – and we saw all four. We found wild interpret the sperm from specially adapted ‘splash cups’ strawberry in flower, in a location to be kept under sedimentary successfully land on female plants, or the tiny island wraps until harvesting! We found species that grow history of the of base-rich soil precariously positioned on a boulder only in the west of Ireland, including St Dabeoc’s valley. in a fast-moving stream and acting as home to heath, as well as the more recently arrived, but now Above right: Rory upward of fourteen higher plant species. It was a widespread, invasive species New Zealand Hodd describing fascinating adventure, made all the more absorbing willowherb. The latter reminded us of the constant upland grass by using a hand lens to see into this micro-world. threat to our plantlife, much in evidence in the species to It was a jam-packed weekend of exploration and participants on discovery, with a group passionate about the outdoor the Ecology of world, including many Club Environmental Officers. Mountains In Sunday’s wrap-up session each participant said weekend. how they would share the knowledge gained on the Left: weekend. My mission is to share what I can with Insectivorous hillwalking companions, to inspire their curiosity in plants sundew our uplands, and, of course, to keep on exploring! and butterwort on wet, peaty Acknowledgments ground. Mountaineering Ireland extends thanks to all who Below: Aine McGirl contributed to the Ecology of Mountains event, admiring an particularly Petersburg Outdoor Education Centre, ancient pine the Outdoor Education programme at GMIT Mayo, stump exposed in and Joyce Country and Western Lakes Geo the blanket bog Enterprise ■ below Bencorragh.

profusion of flowering rhododendron seen on the local roadsides. As we explored banks and ledges we heard some great stories, like that of Ellen Hutchins. She lived in Ballylickey, Co Cork, and was Ireland’s first female botanist, in the early 1800s. She was chronically ill for most of her life and died before the age of 30. Despite her short life and concentrating her efforts near her home on Bantry Bay, she made several botanical discoveries, some of which bear her name and earned her an international reputation. We found one of her liverwort discoveries, Herbertus hutchinsiae. Photographs: Helen Lawless (Kevin O’Callaghan), Aine McGirl (Rory Hodd), Harm Deenen (insectivorous plants), Helen Lawless (Aine McGirl and pine stump) (Aine Helen Lawless plants), Harm Deenen (insectivorous Hodd), Aine McGirl (Rory O’Callaghan), (Kevin Helen Lawless Photographs: 32 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 WHY A GEOPARK PROJECT?

Trish Walsh describes the value of the Joyce Country and Western Lakes Geopark Project and how the Ecology of Mountains weekend was the kind of educational tourism to best promote it.

Geoparks help to tell us the fascinating stories of Above: weathering patterns on the limestone pavement on geological, social, cultural and economic history of Trish Walsh the shores of Lough Mask. They also saw what specific areas. Elevated to UNESCO status since 2015, (centre) with ancient woodlands in Clonbur look like. there are now 140 Geoparks across the globe. participants on Saturday focused initially on glacial features; this Why would rural communities in the west of Ireland the hills above was followed by an exploration of the ecology of wish to gain this designation? For the most part, it is Finny. uplands on the Maumtrasna plateau, and especially because they have equal status to World Heritage its flora. Sites but don’t carry any legislative responsibility or Below: Ged Sunday was all about an ocean that no longer impose restrictions on people, landowners, farmers or Dowling standing exists, and rock formations called pillow , and industry. on an outcrop of their associated flora, while the alternative walk They also promote economic and social pillow lava. focused on fulachta fiadha, a Bronze Age hill fort, development, business volcanic breccias and red and green chert. and job creation, based There seemed to be a general consensus that it around tourism and small- was a great area for hillwalking and for learning about or micro-enterprises in the environment, which is exactly the result that the food, crafts and the arts. local group who are driving this project wish to hear, The designation as promoting educational tourism is a key element essentially becomes a on the road to Geopark status. marketing tool to promote A Joyce Country and Western Lakes project the locality for tourism, website is now up and running at increasing visitor numbers, www.joycecountrygeoparkproject.ie which in turn helps drive and a Facebook page is also set up at economic activity and www.Facebook.com/JCWLG. boost employment. The website has a ‘Discover the Geopark Project’ The Joyce Country and menu, including local attractions, towns and villages, Western Lakes area things to do, maps, trails and itineraries. obviously requires some Under the ‘Our Geopark Project Territory’ tab you impressive geology to earn will find details on the geological history of the area, this designation. What was landscapes, habitats, wildlife, culture and people. enjoyable about There is also a ‘Learning and Resources’ section being Mountaineering Ireland’s developed, so keep returning to the website as recent Ecology of the information is added and updated ■ Mountains weekend was how it showcased exactly what the area has to offer, ➤ Trish Walsh is the and we only had time to Chairperson of Joyce see a portion of it. Country and Western Lakes On the Friday evening, Geo Enterprise and Director participants were amazed of Petersburg Outdoor to see the unique Education Centre. Photographs: Bridget Browne (group photo), Ursula MacPherson (Ged Dowling) (Ged MacPherson Ursula photo), (group Browne Bridget Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 33 TRAINING

Sandy beach at Lough Shannagh BECOMING A MOUNTAIN LEADER

Fergal Harrington describes how he successfully completed the Mountain Leader (ML) Award programme.

I would imagine most readers of the Irish 2017, in Connemara, where we based Invigorated with positivity from ML1, we Mountain Log have more hillwalking ourselves in Leenane. set up our lakeside the following experience than I had in January 2017, ML1 includes both classroom and weekend for the ML2 training at when I signed up for the Mountain Skills outdoor elements covering mountain Coomyanna, just outside , Co Kerry. training programme! weather, route-planning, leadership This was my first ever wintertime camp The little experience I had was of responsibilities and first-aid emergencies, and, I thought to myself, it was cool. sections of the , where I first as well as day and night navigation, The colours and stillness of the sunrise discovered the peaceful beauty and movement over steep ground and were breathtaking and I felt privileged to immersive feeling of being out on the hills. self-location techniques. be there. Of course, back then, I didn’t have any Conditions were challenging and Winter camping requires having the aspirations of becoming a Mountain memorable. In my notes, I recall writing appropriate gear, most of which I had Leader, but I hoped that completing ‘Need better hat or balaclava for protection borrowed but which I have since purchased Mountain Skills 1 and 2 in January and from the blizzards’ which we experienced in for myself. Good winter camping skills are February 2017 would allow me to explore the . essential for the Mountain Leader more of our uplands. In fact, it actually opened up a whole new world to me. By October 2017, I had completed the requisite fourteen mountain walks and had passed the Mountain Skills Assessment. As my experience grew, so did my desire to share the beauty and freedom of the mountains with others, and I began considering undertaking the Mountain Leader (ML) training programme, to give me the skills to look after others in the mountains. Firstly, I completed a Remote Emergency First Aid Certified Course (Rec 3), which is valid for two years. Via the Mountaineering Ireland website (www.mountaineering.ie), I signed up for the Mountain Leader Training 1 and 2 programmes. ML1 took place between December 7-9th

➤ Fergal Harrington is a marketing professional from Shankill, Co Dublin, with a passion for the outdoor life. He is the owner of Álaind Lodges in Sneem, Co Kerry, where he offers walking holidays via his website, alaind.ie. Deciding on the next challenging leg (from left): Conall Ó Fiannachta, Barry Hannigan, Ronnie Smith and Fergal Harrington Photographs: Barry Hannigan (Lough Shannagh), Sharon Porter (group photo) (group Porter Sharon Shannagh), (Lough Hannigan Barry Photographs: 34 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Assessment, which involves a three-day and two-night mountain expedition. On completion of ML2, our debriefing greenlighted us for the consolidation phase in preparation for the ML assessment, the next of which would be held in November 2018 and March 2019. ML Assessment candidates must build up their experience by logging hundreds of hours and kilometres in different mountain conditions and unfamiliar terrain. Like most assessment candidates, I used the digital log on Mountaineering Ireland’s website. Second night’s Moyad Road campsite near Pigeon Rock It takes a bit of getting used to, but if you use the system from the start it will save you time and effort as the assessment Assessment driving snow, but it all added to the date approaches. The group of seven candidates and two satisfaction of what we were aiming to I recommend reaching out to qualified assessors (Kieran O’Hara and Ronnie Smith) achieve. leaders, as their insight and experience is gathered on the evening of Friday, March When navigation or leadership issues invaluable and, to the ones I approached, I 8th, at Meelmore Lodge, not far from arose, we resolved them quickly and am immensely grateful for their generosity Tollymore, Co Down, where introductions learned from them. It is this concentrated in giving of their time and knowledge. were made and the structure of the learning opportunity that is the overriding I had the opportunity to observe on both weekend discussed. benefit of the assessment weekend. We Mountain Skills 1 and 2 courses, which I On the Saturday morning, with our gear had a nervous wait to learn the outcome found a great opportunity to refresh my double-checked, we split into two groups, of the assessment, but it was clearly own practical skills, to watch how other each with an assessor. From here on, the evident how much it meant to all of us. trainers managed their groups and to hear objective was to know where you were I intend to use my new Mountain Leader the aspirations of those attending the always, regardless of who was leading the qualification to attract walkers for active course. navigational leg. holidays to my B&B accommodation in The log book requirements, i.e., the Initially, I felt panic. I should have done Sneem, Co Kerry (www.alaind.ie). With my consolidation period, is undeniably a better on my initial navigational leg. professional skills and liability insurance considerable commitment, which is why I Surprisingly, however, I realised the cover in place, I will be leading guests opted to aim for the later March 2019 assessors were not only assessing but also through some of the most beautiful assessment. However, once you set offering helpful advice when appropriate. upland areas in our country so that they yourself goals and targets, you can and will Quickly, my fellow candidates and I have fabulous lasting memories to take complete the consolidation and, found our rhythm and we grew in away. importantly, the sense of achievement confidence as we perfected our pacing, along the way is sweet. timing and feature-reading abilities, As I built up my log, I began switching my Acknowledgments notwithstanding being loaded up with I would like to thank all those who focus to leading others, which I found most heavy backpacks. supported me along the way to becoming satisfying and rewarding. As part of the Being able to always point to your a Mountain Leader, particularly Alan requirements, I organised a weekend current location on a map requires Mordaunt, Milly De Buitléar, Wayne expedition to Kerry, which was my constant focus, but it made the time to Jenkins, Niall Ennis and, of course, Sneem opportunity to put all of my skills into reaching our campsite pass quickly. The Walking Club, Tim Orr, Kevin O’Hara, Ronnie practice. I organised the accommodation weather was harsh, with gusting winds and Smith and Mountaineering Ireland and the days’ activities, including route- ■ planning in the Dunkerron Mountains, with contingencies for both deteriorating Tired but happy: newly qualified Mountain Leaders (from left) Conall Ó Fiannachta, Barry weather and the group’s ability. Hannigan and Fergal Harrington. Our group of six had different levels of experience but all thoroughly enjoyed themselves; they especially enjoyed the sights of wild goats and white-tailed eagles on the cliff faces, the friendly banter, the crystal-clear views across Iveragh and west Cork, and, for some, the optional extra day’s climb to the snow-covered summit of . With my logbook requirements complete, I nervously looked forward to the Mountain Leader Assessment between March 8-11th 2019 in the . We had some pre-assessment written assignments to complete on environmental, flora, fauna and best practice and policies topics, which required quite a bit of study. Photographs: Ken Doyle (campsite), Fergal Harrington (selfie of newly qualified leaders) qualified newly of (selfie Harrington Fergal (campsite), Doyle Ken Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 35 Climbing

Keira setting up for a big move Another young climber at Awesome Walls Dublin in a bouldering round 2019 YOUTH CLIMBING SERIES A competition report by John Henchion

he new format for the three scores to count for the to see some fantastic making the finals on both 2019 Youth Climbing four rounds, it was important performances by some Saturday and Sunday and TSeries was warmly to get at least one good score climbers new to the finishing 4th overall in Boys E. welcomed by all who in the first two rounds to be in competition scene, and the There were many fine participated in this year’s with a chance to qualify for ongoing growth of the Youth performances by members competition. The change saw the Grand Final. The round Climbing Series. of the Mountaineering Ireland competitors focusing on one saw a large turn-out in Derry The new format allowed for team over the weekend, with discipline on the day rather and some very strong a new venue for the UK and other finalists on the Sunday than having to do both climbing across all categories. Ireland Grand Final, ending a including Ilmur Jonsdottir (6th bouldering and routes on the The third round saw the run of many years travelling to overall), Sean Henchion (5th same day, as in previous years. competitors back for a round Ratho, Edinburgh. This year overall) and Bonita Thurston th It allowed route-setters more of bouldering at the newly the competition was split over (joint 12 with Faith ). opportunity to set interesting extended bouldering wall at two days and two venues in Already thoughts are problems and routes, as well Awesome Walls, Cork, which Sheffield. Saturday saw turning to 2020 dates and as making the day more greatly impressed all of those everyone visiting the new venues. Given the overall streamlined and enjoyable for visiting it for the first time. The bouldering wall at The Depot, success of the new format, it can be anticipated that there the competitors and their growing popularity of while Sunday saw the routes will only be minor changes parents. bouldering was evident from taking place at Awesome Walls in Sheffield. ahead. The opening round took the numbers entering the For the fourth year in As always, thanks must be place in January at the Dublin competition there. succession, Ireland had a given to our sponsors, Great Climbing Centre, with over 125 The fourth and final round category winner, with Outdoors, Mountaineering children competing in in Ireland saw the climbers Matthew Murray taking first Ireland, the host walls, the bouldering across the various taking on routes at Awesome place in Boys C, to add to his route-setters at each venue age categories. Large numbers Walls, Dublin, with many still win previously when in Boys E. and to all the parents who in many categories saw some looking to qualify for the His brother, Dylan Murray, also volunteered to help run the very close scoring and a very Grand Finals, and most not kept up the family honour, events on the day ■ high standard of climbing. knowing if they were Round two took us to the successful until the results amazing Foyle Arena in Derry were announced. for the first round of the Over the four rounds, many route-climbing element of the of the usual names reached competition. With the best the podium, but it was great Photographs: Ian Lawlor Photographs: 36 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 CLIMBING WALL SEMINAR October 8-9th, 2019

A Climbing Wall Seminar is being organised by Mountaineering Ireland in association with and Lyon Equipment. The seminar is aimed at anyone who has an interest in climbing walls, including owners, managers, coaches, instructors, route-setters, technical advisors, etc. The seminar will take place on October 8th and 9th in Blanchardstown, Dublin. Further details will be made available shortly.

BURREN MEET September 6-8th, 2019

The Burren is an expansive, rocky limestone landscape, making find routes graded from VDiff to E1, making it a great place to it a prime destination for trad climbers. This year’s Burren Meet practice and to set up a few bottom ropes. is an open club event organised by the Dal Riada Climbing Club We will also explore some other crags at , such as and the Irish Mountaineering Club. The meet will take place Dancing Ledges and, for the more experienced climber, the Aran over the weekend of September 6-8th and will be open to all and Mirror Walls, which are a short distance from . climbers. Youth climbers can attend, provided they have Although the meet does not include any formal instruction, suitable adult supervision. Dal Riada and Irish Mountaineering Club members will be happy There is plenty of accommodation available in and the to share their climbing experience with you. nearby village of . Guest speakers will be scheduled for Lots of other options are available, including superb Friday and Saturday evening – details will be announced closer bouldering down at the seafront, so be sure to head to the to the date. It is a short distance along the coast from either Burren on September 6th for some mega rock climbing! Doolin or Fanore to the roadside crag at Ballyryan. Here you will Further information will be available closer to the date.

Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 37 IRISH BOULDERING CHAMPIONSHIP

The 2019 Irish Bouldering Championship: a report by Damien O’Sullivan

he 2019 Irish (age 12-13), Youth B (age 14- took third place, scoring one needed and went in Luca’s Bouldering 15) and Youth A (age 16-17) less top. favour. Séan Brown put in a TChampionship took competition categories. The final round for Male A very strong performance in place at the Dublin Climbing Each competition category was an even tighter affair, the final, finishing in third Centre over the weekend of had a selection of eight with Sean O’Connor and place. April 6th and 7th. Youth boulder problems to attempt Marcus McDowell reaching In Female C, Caelin climbers competed on in their qualification round. the top of all four problems Lenehan, Eabha Hallissey and Saturday and the Senior The climbers were well on their first attempts, Eve Buckley were in flying climbers took their turn on tested in the qualification requiring a countback to the form, scoring all four Tops and the Sunday. round, with only two qualification round to give Zones in the final, only to be The setting team of Rob climbers – Sean O’Connor Sean first place. Tommy split on the number of Hunter, Chloe Condron and and Marcus McDowell in Myles took third place with attempts. Caelin took first, Brian Hall had the task of Male Youth A – managing to three tops. with second and third going setting the qualification and reach the top of all eight In Female B, it was again to Eabha and Eve final round boulder problems problems. extremely close between respectively. for each of the categories. At the end of the Faith Blaney and Rhyna Sam Monedero-Egan The Dublin Climbing Centre’s qualification round, the top Conroy. Faith took first place capped off a great season open layout bouldering wall five climbers in each by requiring fewer attempts with a win in the very and Mountaineering Ireland’s category progressed on to to score her Tops and Zones. competitive Male C category, stock of climbing holds the final round. For the final A strong performance from followed by Zach McCune in allowed the setting team to round the climbers were Bonita Thurston was enough second and Fionn O’Connor set a very modern, exciting given four boulder problems for her to secure third place. in third. style of boulder problems. to attempt. Male Youth B was again On Sunday, the Senior Saturday’s competition In Female Youth A it was a too close to call in the final climbers took their turn on was an amazing show of very close contest between round, with both Luca the problems set by Rob, impressive young climbers Anna De Souza and Paola McDowell and George Chloe and Brian for the from all over Ireland as well Neal-Fagan for first place. Lassov topping all four competition. They had a as several visitors from Anna secured first place in problems on their first qualification round of twelve . The competition the end by needing fewer attempt. A countback to the boulder problems, followed by

Photograph: Tom O’Neill Tom Photograph: included climbers in Youth C attempts. Jessica McGarry qualification round was a final round of four. Although the numbers of climbers Victoria Watterson and Darragh O’Connor competing in the Senior section of the competition was low, the quality of the climbing was very high. Through the qualification round both Lucy Mitchell and Victoria Watterson looked to be in contention for the top spot on the Senior Females podium. Trish Fox was also climbing well and was kept in focus by Christina McInerney and Lia Peare-Kavanagh. In the Senior Males, Daragh O’Connor, Ciaran Scanlon, Michael O’Neill and Mark Scanlon were in strong form, topping all twelve of the problems in the qualification round. In the final round for the Senior females, Lucy Mitchell made light work of three of the problems to secure first 38 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Photo: Tom O’Neill the Saturday andSenior climbers on the Sunday. place. Trish Fox problems to finishinsecond scored the Zone onall four topped two problems and place. Victoria Watterson ed lmig optto fr rs cibr. This climbers. Championship Irish The Ireland. Mountaineering by for competition championship is one of the two national championships climbing run lead of style (IFSC) Climbing Sports of Federation International The the weekend of October 19-20 rs La Cibn Championship Climbing Lead Irish kept her cool takes place at place takes th Awesome Walls Dublin Walls Awesome . Youth climbers compete on podium. Zones to complete the scoring two Tops and two and climbedsmoothly, The finalround for the 2019 Irish Lead Climbing Lead Irish 2019 Ciaran Scanlon rvds an provides over irishleadclimbingchampionship mountaineering.ie/climbing/competitionclimbing/ Mountaineering Ireland website page the to go please online,enter to and informationmore For excellent some top climbers inaction. an see is and along Come enjoy. to Championship spectators for competition Climbing Lead Irish The assisted with the judgingof top spot on the podium. in five attempts to take the six attempts and three Zones who scored three Tops injust stopping Darragh O’Connor, setters, there was no best efforts, and those of the determination. Despite their Ciaran showing great both climbingwell, with and Ciaran Scanlon problems. MichaelO’Neill level of difficulty of the noticeable increase in the challenging affair, witha Senior maleswas a Thanks to everyone who were competition ■ Insurance thanks to O’DriscollO’Neil competition. Finally, special Centre to the DublinClimbing problems. Inaddition, thanks create agreat set of beyond the callof duty to Hall Chloe Condron setting team of Rob Hunter, days. Thanks also to the the competition over both or go to bit.ly/2XfSx6w. for going above and Officer Climbing Development Damien O’Sullivan, Written by for hosting the for sponsoring the and Brian YOUTH CLIMBING TEAM A report by Damien O’Sullivan

he International Federation of Sports TClimbing (IFSC) European Youth Cup in bouldering is a key focus for the members of the Mountaineering Ireland Youth Climbing Team. The competition attracts the top young climbers from the climbing nations across Europe. The standard of climbing is always exceptionally high, with many of the competitors making the transition to senior international level. Janja Garnbret, the winner of the 2019 IFSC Boulder World Cup, was a very recent competitor in the European Youth Cup! Under the guidance of The Youth Climbing Team on a visit to Portugal

the Youth Climbing Team’s enthused by the Head Coach, Rob Hunter, performance of the team training sessions for the members at the Youth Climbing Team took competitions. He noted place monthly during the that the individual winter. The Gravity competitors’ performances Climbing Centre provided were steadily improving the venue for those training and progress was being sessions and assisted with made towards moving up the cost of setting bespoke the rankings. competition-style boulder Like many sports, the problems for the team results of a climbing members to train on. competition do not always In addition to these tell the full picture. competition-practice Bouldering competitions focused sessions, the team are scored on the number members also took part in of Tops and Zones achieved a competition-climbing by each competitor, so sports psychology training even if you are only a session with the renowned millimetre off the hold you Austrian sports may as well be a metre off psychologist Madeleine it. Eppensteiner. The team will continue to This year, the European train over the summer in Youth Cup took place preparation for the IFSC across three rounds, in European Youth Cup which Portugal, Austria and takes place in Brixen, , Jude McInerney Bulgaria. Rob Hunter was in September

Photographs: Nuala Mullan (team photo), Nick McCarthy (Jude) McCarthy Nick photo), Nuala Mullan (team Photographs: ■ 40 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 GEOLOGY

BLANKET PEAT

Peter Wilson explains the origins of blanket peat and why this remarkable substance deserves our respect and protection in the mountain environment.

Above: Blanket t goes without saying that every hillwalker in Before the peat peat terrain Ireland must have experienced blanket peat Peat was not always present on the hills. As the occupying the terrain at some time because it occurs in all uplands emerged from the last episode of glaciation, low, broad ridges our upland areas. Commonly referred to as lower hill-slopes had a cover of glacial sediments, of the north bog, it is extensive and thick on the gentle with steeper slopes and summits showing much Sperrin slopes that surround the hills and on the more of the rock skeleton than they do now. Mountains. broadI ridges and plateaux that characterise summit Gradually, as the climate continued to warm, the areas. Only where the slope gradient exceeds about hillsides were colonised by trees and shrubs, some of Below: Detail 20-25 degrees is this thick peat normally absent. which extended onto the high plateaux. of a pine stump Because of its ability to retain water, peat-covered The remains of these ancient woodlands can exposed by peat ground makes for rather soft and tiring walking. This sometimes be seen where peat has been cut away erosion. The is even more so where bog vegetation has been by humans or eroded. At lower levels, much of the scale bar is 30 denuded and walkers are faced with acres of black woody material consists of the tough stumps and cm in length. peat, often dissected by gullies. There are numerous roots of pine. At higher levels, tree remains tend to be stories of walkers sinking up to their knees or hips, less frequent at the base of the peat, but where having stepped on what they thought was firm present they usually consist of pieces of birch, which ground. Extrication can be a slow and dirty business. are softer and more fragile than the pine. In contrast, However, even if you haven’t experienced the the so-called bog oaks are generally associated with delights of cold, waterlogged peat on your inner the raised bogs that occupy low-lying areas of the thighs, you will at least have had peat oozing into landscape, particularly the midlands. your boots at some time. For these reasons, much cursing and swearing is frequently directed at peat, Climate change or human impact? even by the most mild-mannered of people. The replacement of the upland woods by heathland Nevertheless, peat is also a remarkable substance, species and the extensive accumulations of peat providing, as it does, a record of former climate and occurred at different times in different areas. ▲ vegetation, and a habitat for plants and animals, without which our uplands would be much poorer. In addition, peat is hugely important in relation to the environment. The ability of peat to retain water and regulate its release is of great significance, as is the role it plays in carbon storage and greenhouse gas control.

➤ Peter Wilson is an individual member of Mountaineering Ireland. He is a lecturer and author in aspects of the physical geography of mountain regions. Photographs: Peter Wilson Peter Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 41 GEOLOGY

Pollen grains extracted from blanket peat (clockwise from top): grass, Sphagnum, sedge, hazel. Photo courtesy of Dr Gill Plunkett, Queen’s University, Belfast.

because of the waterlogged conditions and the lack of oxygen in the bog. If you pull a lump of peat apart, the leaves, stems and fruits of plants that once grew on the bog surface will be seen. These are sometimes sufficiently well preserved to be identified without the use of a microscope or hand lens. Various heathers, grasses, sedges, bilberry and mosses (especially Sphagnum) make up the bulk of most blanket peat. Throughout the development of peat, slightly warmer and drier climatic phases have alternated Why the woodlands declined at the expense of Above: Pine with slightly cooler and wetter ones. These changes heath and peat has been debated for many years. stumps exposed are evident in peat profiles. Layers that show a high Some scientists believe a change to cooler and by peat-cutting degree of plant decomposition reflect warmer and wetter conditions caused the trees to die. Others in Donegal. drier conditions, while layers in which plant remains point the finger at woodland clearance and the are better preserved indicate cooler and wetter subsequent decline in soil fertility brought about by Below: Lowland phases. Neolithic and Bronze Age farming communities blanket peat By examining the full thickness of peat at any some 6,000-2,500 years ago, as appears to be the at sea level on location the vegetational history of the site can be case at the Céide Fields in north Mayo. There are yet . established. Changes in the former vegetation over others who think the change resulted from a time can also be determined by treating samples of combination of the two. peat with reagents that digest the peat but Radiocarbon dating has shown that the spread of preserve pollen grains. These pollen grains can tell blanket peat on lower mountain slopes coincided us which plants grew on the bog and in the with both climatic deterioration and prehistoric surrounding area. agricultural activity. However, on high ridges and plateaux early agriculture was probably a less important factor. Deterioration in the climate is the probable cause of peat growth in those locations. In the east of the country, upland blanket bog generally occurs at elevations above about 250 metres, while in the west it is found above 150 metres. This east-west difference reflects the greater rainfall amounts at lower levels in the west. Furthermore, lowland blanket peat is extensive across ground below 150 metres, and even along the coast in western counties because of the high rainfall. The term blanket bog is a very appropriate one because the peat extends and wraps itself across the landscape, following the natural undulations of the terrain, just as a giant blanket would do if cast across the hills. In the uplands blanket peat can attain thicknesses of 2-6 metres. Peat composition Peat is made up of the partially decomposed remains of plants. They haven’t decayed completely Photographs: Peter Wilson Peter Photographs: 42 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Another material that has been found in blanket Above: An bogs is volcanic ash or tephra from Icelandic example of volcanoes. These volcanoes have erupted many times severe peat over the past few thousand years and some of the ash erosion – haggs has travelled towards Ireland. A recent example was and groughs – the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in April 2010, which on Benleagh in caused widespread disruption to air travel in northern the Wicklow Europe. When ash eventually falls from the Mountains. atmosphere some lands on bogs; it gets trapped and incorporated into the peat mass as the bog grows. Right: Water emerging from a sub-peat tunnel in the Mournes.

Below: Bog burst scars on Crocknalaragagh, Co Donegal.

Glassy particles of tephra from blanket peat in the Mournes. The tephra is from an eruption of the Icelandic Hekla 4,300 years ago. Photo courtesy of Dr Gill Plunkett, Queen’s University, Belfast.

Although invisible to the naked eye, tephra can be extracted and its chemistry analysed to ascertain which volcano it came from. The associated peat layer can be radiocarbon dated to establish the timing of the eruption. Climate scientists and archaeologists have been able to link Icelandic eruptions with societal changes in Irish history and prehistory. Peat erosion The erosion of peat can be seen today on most of our hills and should be of concern to all who use the uplands, whether for recreation or to earn a livelihood. It is not a simple task to explain why and when erosion began in any particular area. Radiocarbon dating indicates that eroded peat was accumulating in lakes in Donegal and Wicklow between 1,500 and 3,000 years ago. Eroded areas must have been extensive during the era of Scandinavian settlement; the terms ‘haggs’ and ‘groughs’ for vegetation-capped residual ▲ Photographs: Peter Wilson Peter Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 43 Photographs: Peter Wilson 44 Antrim. There can be no doubt that this plateau was Ireland can be seen on the summit of in Co deposited farther downslope. peat has moved, and a tongue of peat debris metres; they leave a depressed area, from which the these ‘landslides’ can extend for several hundreds of footpaths, trees and even roads with it. Some of downslope rapidly, sometimes taking fences, water, the peat mass becomes unstable and moves intensity or prolonged rainfall. Due to the excess occurs on moderate to steep slopes during high is the so-called bog burst or bog slide. This usually many bogs. healing are apparent from detailed examination of may open up at the surface. Phases of erosion and imperceptible but, as it progresses, tension gashes movement or creep. This may be almost and begin to disintegrate by slow downslope decomposition, a peat bog may become unstable of the slope, peat thickness and degree of of the peat as it thickens. Depending on the gradient above. peat becomes exposed to the influences mentioned of the tunnel, surface vegetation is disrupted and enlarge, the ground surface subsides along the line tunnels beneath the peat. As these sub-peat tunnels stop it from deepening and widening. soon be formed in the peat, and there is then little to heavy rain. In the latter circumstance, a gully can be removed by the wind or by water flow during both situations, the peat is broken up and can then spells and to drying and cracking in warm periods. In peat becomes susceptible to frost action in cold damaged by trampling or overgrazing, the exposed popular hillwalking areas. If the surface vegetation is changes in the flow of water, such as may be seen in usually linked with vegetation disturbance and result of turf cutting, the badly eroded areas are origin. peat masses and the adjacent gullies are of Norse GEOLOGY One of the most severe cases of peat erosion in A more spectacular and rapid form of peat erosion An alternative mechanism is the natural instability Gullies can also be formed by water that flows in Although the loss of some upland peat is the Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish of . the western cairn erosion adjacent to Below: Peat plant of boglands. an insectivorous common sundew, Above: The of peat erosion. – the end product Trostan, Co Antrim stony summit of Top: The bare taken to reach this state is not known. and how this erosion started and how long it has and may eventually disappear completely. When an area from which peat is being removed rapidly Galtymore on the Cork/Tipperary border overlooks are peat haggs 1-2 metres in height. once peat-covered, for around its margins there that is locked up in the peat bogs record of recent climate and landscape changes the insectivorous sundews. We are also losing the and animals that are adapted to the bog, such as removal of peat means a loss of habitat for plants of flooding is a likely consequence. And the slow release from the peat. An increased incidence lowlands is no longer regulated by storage and hill peat means that water flow from uplands to capacity, and discolours the water. An absence of It is deposited in reservoirs and reduces their clogs spawning beds, and, if excessive, can kill fish. vegetated peat. Eroded peat gets into streams and Bare, wet peat is more difficult to traverse than place, walking actually becomes more arduous. costs involved with peat erosion. As erosion takes make walking much easier, but there are several Areas from which peat has been totally stripped Consequences Likewise, the western cairn on the summit of ■ Summer 2019 Summer ASCENT OF K2

AN IRISH ASCENT OF K2

Patrick O’Sullivan interviews mountaineer extraordinaire Noel Hanna from Northern Ireland about his successful ascent of the world’s second highest mountain, K2, in July 2018 in an amazing 24 hours that saw three Irishmen summit on the 8,611m mountain.

Above: K2, from oel Hanna was the first Irish The following day, Jason Black (47), from the south side. mountaineer to climb K2 since Ger , Co Donegal, also reached the summit McDonnell made the first Irish ascent (see report, IML 127). He was climbing with a Madison Right: Noel Hanna of the ‘Savage Mountain,’ as it is often Mountaineering expedition. One of their guides, who earlier this year. called, on August 1st, 2008. Ger, who also reached the summit, was Robert Smith, hailedN from Limerick, sadly lost his life on the another Irishman. Rob Smith was born in Omagh, Co descent while trying to assist some Korean climbers Tyrone, and started climbing in 1989. He has been who had got into difficulty on the mountain. guiding professionally for twenty years and now lives K2 is known as the Savage Mountain because of in Fort William, Scotland. His most noteworthy the difficulty of the ascent. It has the second highest ascents as lead guide have included Mt Everest, Cho fatality rate among the 8,000-metre peaks, with Oyu, Carstensz Pyramid, Mt Vinson and Mt Elbrus. ▲ about one person dying on the mountain for every four who reach the summit. Noel is 51 years of age and comes from Dromara, Co Down. He summited K2 (8,611m) on July 21st, 2018, with a group from Ascent Himalayas Treks & Expeditions led by Mingma Tsiri Sherpa, who was making his second ascent of K2.

➤ Patrick O’Sullivan is the Editor of the Irish Mountain Log. Photographs: Stefanos Nikologiabis (K2), Patrick O’Sullivan (Noel Hanna) O’Sullivan Patrick (K2), Nikologiabis Stefanos Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 45 ASCENT OF K2

K2: more difficult than Everest K2 is situated in the Karakorum region on the border between Pakistan and China. It is also known as Mount Godwin-Austen and as Chhogori in Balti and Urdu. The mountain, at 8,611m, is the second highest in the world after Everest (8,848m), but it is considered a more difficult climb than Everest because of the more extreme weather that it is exposed to as a result of its isolated and more northerly location, the higher risk of avalanches and falling rocks, and the steep rock sections that must be climbed. Ascents are made during July and August because of the milder weather then. So far, the mountain has not been climbed in winter, although there have been attempts by Polish and Russian teams.

Noel Hanna had made two previous attempts on K2 before his climb last year. In 2015, he got to K2 Base Camp above Concordia (5,670m), at the base of the mountain. The team he was with established an Advanced Base Camp at Crampon Point, two hours up the from Base Camp, but an avalanche wiped out that camp and they lost all of their gear. In 2016, he spent two days at Camp 1 on K2 in a summit push, when an avalanche took out Camp 3 in the morning. Fortunately, the Sherpas were in Camp 2 at the time, which was sheltered. No one summited on K2 in 2015 or in 2016. Noel didn’t return in 2017, but he went back last year to make another attempt at climbing this most challenging mountain. Meeting Noel Hanna When I met Noel Hanna in January 2019, he had already summited on Everest eight times – seven from the Tibet side and once from Nepal. He said it was cheaper to climb from Tibet. Noel was born and bred in Co Down, and still lives there. He started climbing when he got involved in long-distance racing. He entered and won the Himalaya 100 Mile Stage Race in 1997, at the age of 29. The race gave him great views of four of the Himalayan giants and it ended in Darjeeling, with its splendid views of Kangchenjunga. That got him interested in other adventure races. In 1999, he entered an ‘eco-challenge’ on Mount Tronador (3,554m) in Patagonia, a region straddling the border of Chile with Argentina, in an Irish team of four: two from the south – Ursula MacPherson and the late Tommy Flanagan – and two from the north – Frazer Crawford and Noel himself. They had to summit Mt Tronador as a team, and that started him climbing. Subsequently, he entered other eco-challenges around the world. He also went climbing in South America with his wife Lynne and some friends. Noel then decided to attempt the Challenge, a challenge to climb the highest peak on each of the world’s seven continents. He decided to take it a step further and to go back down to sea level by his own efforts, hiking, running, cycling or skiing, from the summit of each of the seven peaks, after each climb. Photographs: www.explorersweb.com (K2 route), Patrick O’Sullivan (Noel Hanna) O’Sullivan Patrick (K2 route), www.explorersweb.com Photographs: 46 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan (Noel Hanna) Summer 2019 Summer Gasherbrum 1 peaks are accessible from there: Austen . Apart from K2, three other 8,000m located at the confluence of the Baltoro and Godwin- week’s trekking, plus rest days. (3,000m) and then trekked into Concordia. That was a June 2018, he first travelled to the roadhead at Askole When Noel set out to climb K2 towards the end of Trek into Concordia and then on to the Bay of Bengal. Camp in Tibet via the Friendship Bridge to Kathmandu other problems. From Everest, he cycled from Base 5,500m in 2018 and got headaches, but he had no He went straight into base camp on Kanchenjunga at does get headaches, though, if he ascends too quickly. summited on Everest for the first time in 2006. He no serious problems with altitude since then and he haemorrhage there and had to descend. Noel has had North Col. Unfortunately, he developed a retinal Ocean. afterwards cycled to Concon in Chile on the Pacific cycled to the at Tuapse after coming down. sea at Nabire. in Indonesia in 2008, Noel trekked and cycled to the America), he cycled to the sea at Anchorage, Alaska. coast at Tanga. the New Year in 2009-2010. to the frozen sea at Hercules Inlet over Christmas and SUCCESS LASTSUCCESS YEAR. ATTEMPTS HIS K2 ON BEFORE NOEL MADE HAD PREVIOUS TWO He climbed He climbed He attempted From From After he climbed the Also in 2007, after summiting Kilimanjaro Mt Vinson and Everest (in ), he skied and walked Gasherbrum 2. (Africa), Noel cycled to the Kenyan Carstenz Pyramid (Asia) in 2005 and got to the (South America) in 2005 and (Europe) in 2007 and Concordia Broad Peak, (North (4,690m) is (Australasia) on K2in2018. also summited Jason Black, who Below right: in 2018. summited onK2 Rob Smith, who Below left: 2019. Hanna in January Right: Noel 2018. in September House inDublin Day at attending Nepal guest of honour Noel Hanna as Far left, bottom: south side. of K2from the Route to summit Far left, top: Ridge on mixed snow and rock terrain for 500m to on K2 was a straightforward snow plod. climbing from Crampon Point to Advanced Base Camp at 5,680m. Noel found that Abruzzi Spur, where some expeditions place their Point face of K2. on the Godwin-Austen Glacier, below the south From Camp 1, the route continued up the Abruzzi It is two hours from K2 Base Camp to K2 Base Camp at the end of the glacier, at the base of the is on from Concordia at 5,650m Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish Camp 1 Crampon (6,085m)

47 ▲ ASCENT OF K2

Camp 2 at 6,700m. This part of the route included Above: Noel Hanna THE TEAM LEFT CAMP 4 ascending the House Chimney, a 30m chimney on summit of K2 in that splits a rock wall. July 2018. AT 9.00PM AND SUMMITED The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (at 7,240m) on the Black Pyramid was the most technically AT 7.30AM. difficult section of the route, Noel said, with on rock and ice on vertical cliffs. The climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 was a three days in Base Camp for the porters to arrive relatively easy ascent on steep snow slopes to the from Askole to carry out the expedition’s gear. start of the Shoulder. Camp 4 (7,500m) was at lower altitude this year, below the and Future ambitions Noel says he didn’t suffer from altitude sickness on well below the Bottleneck (8,211m). this trip, and did not even lose his appetite when he was high on the mountain. He said he eats Going for the summit everything and ate well on the whole trip. He did The team left Camp 4 at 9.00pm and reached the not lose weight on the mountain and remained at summit of K2 successfully at 7.30am. To reach the his usual 70kg. summit from Camp 4 they had to make a traverse Noel says that he keeps healthy and doesn’t feel to the Bottleneck, possibly the most dangerous that he is slowing up. When he is at home, Noel part of the climb. It is only a 50-metre climb, but it goes to the gym five times a week for one to two is vertical blue ice. They were on fixed ropes and hours, and he goes running three or four times a some of the climbers were not carrying an . week. There were fixed ropes from the top of the When I asked Noel about his future plans, he said Bottleneck, along the traverse below the seracs and he would be attempting Everest from the Nepal up the Summit Dome to 100 metres below the side in 2019 and that he then planned to attempt summit. the mountain without oxygen in 2020 with Lynne, Noel summited K2 and went straight back down also from the Nepal side. to Base Camp the same day. In 2016, he and Lynne became the first couple to Despite his speedy descent, Noel had to wait have climbed Everest from both sides

Photographs: xxxx Photographs: ■ 48 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Crossword Summer competition Win a great prize from Basecamp if your correct completed entry for this puzzle is the first drawn from the hat!

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# Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 49 COUNTY HIGH POINTS

COUNTY HIGH POINTS ODYSSEY

David Barnes takes on the all-Ireland county high points challenge to raise funds for the Sligo Leitrim Mountain Rescue Team.

or several years, I have been dipping in and Above: View within a certain time frame. One lazy Sunday, while out of hillwalking and mountaineering, but of Carlingford browsing Facebook, I came across a recruitment I have never really taken on any challenges from Slieve Foye post for the Sligo Leitrim Mountain Rescue Team. in the Cooleys, or major climbs. Mostly, I’ve been just I had toyed with the idea of applying to join this the County hiking around my local mountains in Antrim high point. rescue team a few times, but had always held back Donegal, when I could, and taking part in as I knew I didn’t have the time to commit properly. some adventure races. Below: David and Now, however, I saw an opportunity to raise money members FOne day in 2015, while on my family’s annual of Sligo Leitrim for the team by doing something I loved, to my own Hallowe’en cycling trip to Westport along the Western Mountain Rescue schedule, while also ticking something off my Greenway, I purchased a book that listed all the county Team on bucket list. high points on the island of Ireland: Ireland’s County High , the Points: A Walking Guide, written by Kieron Gribbon. I first high point of the challenge. intended to work my way through the list, but I did not really believe I would ever climb all of them. The guidebook sat on a shelf for two years, as life flew by. One day in late 2017, I came across an article about a young nine-year old boy called Dillon Lynch who had become the youngest person to climb all the county high points in Ireland. Inspired by Dillon, and hoping to inspire my children and the young people in my scout group, the 12th Sligo Ballintrillick Scouts, I decided to take on the challenge. With the decision made to go for it, I knew I would need a source of motivation to complete the challenge

➤ David Barnes is from Bundoran, , and is a member of the Sligo Mountaineering Club and a scout in the 12th Sligo Ballintrillick Scouts. He has had a love of the hills since the early 1990s, when his grandfather took him to scout out hillwalking routes for foreign students staying in Bundoran during the summer. Photographs: David Barnes Collection David Photographs: 50 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 “THE MOST PHYSICALLY TOUGH HIGH POINT FOR ME WAS GALTYMORE, WITH ITS WET AND SLIPPERY GRASSY SLOPES.”

After speaking to the Sligo Leitrim Mountain Rescue Team, I set myself four goals: • To raise at least €2,000 • To begin with Truskmore in Sligo-Leitrim • To finish with in my home county of Donegal • To complete the challenge in 2018. At 10.00am on April 14th, 2018, the challenge began, when I took on Truskmore on the Sligo/Leitrim border. Right: With six shared county high points, the challenge Lugnaquillia, would involve climbing just twenty-six summits, as the County follows (in order of decreasing height): Wicklow high point. County high point: County or counties: Below: In the Carrauntoohil (1,039m) Kerry Hag’s Glen on Lugnaquillia (925m) Wicklow the ascent of Galtymore (919m) Tipperary/Limerick Carrauntoohil (850m) Down (from left): Mweelrea (814m) Mayo Eamonn Mount Leinster (794m) Carlow/Wexford Mitchell, Aine (793m) Waterford Mitchell and David Barnes. (757m) Dublin Errigal (751m) Donegal Benbaun (725m) Galway (706m) Cork Sawel (678m) Derry/Tyrone (665m) Cavan/Fermanagh Truskmore (647m) Sligo/Leitrim Slieve Foye (588m) Louth (573m) Armagh Trostan (550m) Antrim Moylussa (532m) Clare (527m) Laois/Offaly (515m) Kilkenny Seltannasaggart SE (412m) Roscommon Cupidstown Hill (379m) Kildare Slieve Beagh East Top (373m) Monaghan Corn Hill (278m) Longford Carnbane East (276m) Meath (258m) Westmeath

Since completing the challenge, I have often been asked what was my favourite high point, or the hardest high point, or the most enjoyable. These are difficult questions to answer, but I have tried my best in the paragraphs below. I suppose the most physically tough climb was on Galtymore. I took the northern approach, and the difficulty I experienced was mainly because of the steep, wet and slippery grassy slopes, along with a bitingly cold gale at the top. While there, I messed around with frozen hands trying to set up my camera. In the end, after the tripod had fallen over three times and the lens had been damaged, I resorted to a selfie to record the ascent. Beginning my descent, I met an interesting chap who had recently left his comfortable nine-to-five job to start up his own business doing something he enjoyed: running adventure tours along the

Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (Lugnaquillia), David Barnes Collection (Carrauntoohil) Barnes Collection David (Lugnaquillia), O’Sullivan Patrick Photographs: and beyond. ➤ Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 51 COUNTY HIGH POINTS

Further down, I fell a few times on the slippery grass, Above: Kippure, due to weather; and, of course, on Errigal, which but I did also help three farmers round up some sheep the County concluded my journey on a perfect December day. and load them into a trailer. Dublin high For Carrauntoohil, myself, several friends, and a One of the most enjoyable experiences of the point, at few friends of friends, stayed in a quirky B&B the sunset. challenge was when I was climbing on Slieve Foye, in night before. Over a few drinks, they taught me how the , Co Louth, with a friend of mine. to play 25, which I am assured is the national card Below left: When we were above 450m, clouds engulfed us, making game of Ireland! View from the summit tricky to find, with many false summits Knockboy, the In October, feeling the time slipping away, I lurking in the mist. We finally reached the real top, took planned a three-peak weekend, an experience that the photos we wanted and were getting ready to high point. took in Slieve Beagh (Monaghan) and Kippure descend when a lone figure emerged from the haze. It (Dublin) on the Friday and then concluded with was a friendly lady, whose descent we joined, as it was Below right: Lugnaquillia (Wicklow) on the Saturday. I stayed with much quicker than our planned route. It turned out this David on a good friend in Rathdangan, Co Wicklow, on the lady was none other than Josie Kieran, who in 1998 had Mount Leinster, Friday night and we walked off Lug the following day, reached the south summit of Everest, the highest peak the County via , directly to his house, and celebrated ever attained by an Irish woman at the time. Carlow high and reminisced over a few drinks in the local pub Experiences with friends made for some of the best point. afterwards. craic during my round, such as on Benbaun in Overall, however, my most enjoyable climb was Connemara, where we had the best views; on Trostan (Antrim), as my wife and children joined me Mweelrea, Co Mayo, which I had to reschedule twice and we made a glamping weekend out of it, visiting Photographs: David Barnes Collection David Photographs: 52 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 “EXPERIENCES WITH FRIENDS Above: View from summit of Book, maps MADE FOR SOME OF THE BEST Benbaun, the ■ Ireland’s County High Points: A Walking Guide by Kieron Gribbon CRAIC DURING MY ROUND.” high point, ■ Ordnance Survey Ireland’s Discovery Series maps looking towards the north-west. Websites Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and the Giant’s Causeway. ■ www.maps.google.com (for vehicle navigating to start locations) Throughout, it was a fabulous experience, and a Bottom: Daniel ■ www.highpointireland.com testing one, both physically and logistically. I climbed Barnes, Rachel many of the summits alone and others with my family Barnes, Brenda Devices or friends. I met many likeminded people – on the hills, Rooney Barnes ■ Garmin GPS Map 62s (weatherproof GPSR through social media and, of course, amongst the Sligo and David with all-Ireland OSi maps) Barnes on the iPhone 7 (For photos and navigation Leitrim Mountain Rescue Team folks themselves. ■ summit of via ViewRanger) Some peaks I climbed quickly and purposefully; others, Trostan, the ■ Sony Xperia XA1 (for GPS track recording I rambled up or made the trip into a weekend or family via ViewRanger) outing, even finding some geocaches along the way. high point. ■ Nikon D3400 and tripod (for taking summit photos) A challenge most could take on Applications There are countless mountaineering articles focusing ■ PeakHunter (Official Partner GPS Recording App on much more extreme challenges than mine and of High Point Ireland) which, for many readers, would be impossible to realise. ■ ViewRanger (GPS Navigation App with However, I believe that some Irish challenges such as OSi Map Tiles) this one, while they are not ‘a walk in the park,’ can be ■ c:geo (Geocaching Android App) realised over time by almost any reader. At 11.00am on December 28th, 2018, after driving a total of 9,600 kilometres, hiking 170 kilometres and raising over €2,800 for the Sligo Leitrim Mountain Rescue Team, my little dream was finally realised. I can honestly say that on each summit I was as proud as punch, and afterwards had a great sense of satisfaction in crossing it off in my logbook. On that final afternoon, standing on top of Errigal, I might as well have been on top of the world! I would like to take this opportunity to sincerely thank everyone who accompanied, followed, supported or donated to me during my journey ■

FIND OUT MORE: If you are interested in getting more details of this challenge or want to ask David Barnes any questions, you can contact him via his challenge-dedicated Facebook page www.facebook.com/chp4slmrt. Photographs: David Barnes Collection David Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 53 THE ALPS

CLIMBING IN THE MONTE ROSA William Nolan jumped at the opportunity to join three Austrian alpinists last year on a trip to the Monte Rosa massif, located in the Eastern and straddling the borders of Italy and Switzerland. Here, he describes the hikes and ascents they completed over five days in August.

n January 2018, I was invited to join two Austrian Above: View from in any order, according to conditions, and would be friends, Manfred Steiger and Stefan Tschirk, on a the summit of used for acclimatisation. trip to the Monte Rosa massif, which they were Punta Giordani planning to make in August. A cancellation by (4,046m) Day 1: August 6th, 2018 showing the five one of their usual climbing companions meant After flying into Malpensa airport in Milan, we other peaks that they needed someone else to join their rope scaled on the collected our hire car and set off to the Staffal cable for safe glacier crossings. I jumped at the trip. car station in the . With our heavy packs, opportunity.I For the first couple of days, we were also we boarded the first of the three cable cars that going to be joined by another friend of theirs, Tobi Below: Summit would take us to the higher Alps for our five-day Helberg. of Balmenhorn tour. Looking down from that first car, I could see a The plan was to ascend eight of the twelve 4,000m (4,167m) with wonderfully remote trail winding up through the peaks in the massif during our five-day trip, most of statue of Christ forest below. I would have loved to trek up on this which we could safely climb on our own. However, the on the top. almost hidden trail, but there was no point wearing main objective of the trip was at some stage, when the ourselves out on the first day. conditions were right, to attempt the Liskamm Traverse, an extremely narrow and dangerous ridge. We had booked three guides to accompany us on the Traverse, as we felt it was beyond our abilities to attempt it unguided. Tobi was leaving before we planned to attempt the traverse, so we would have a guide ratio of 1:1. The other summits could be attempted

➤ William Nolan is a Mountain Leader based in Ireland and is the owner and lead guide of Wilderness Adventures. He leads group hikes throughout Ireland and also runs navigation courses. Photographs: William Nolan Collection Photographs: 54 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 When we reached the top cable car station, we still Above: Looking calves, and the burn was intense, but we carried on, had an hour’s hike to reach the Mantova Hut at towards traversing the narrow rock ridge to the summit. A slip 3,498m on the Garstelet Glacier. We had lunch there Vincentpiramid there would have been fatal, so we kept tied on while (4,215m) as a and then headed outside to refresh our we were on this summit. The views were truly helicopter flies rescue techniques and conduct a full gear check, as past. spectacular, but we couldn’t stay too long. The the following day would be busy, with an early start. forecast was for thunderstorms and this was no However, the weather changed to heavy showers of Below: The place to be during a storm. To descend from there, hail, which forced us inside again. We were already climbing team on the ice face was too risky, so we decided that an feeling the effects of the altitude and the thinner air. the summit of abseil off the rocky face was safest. Everyone was in bed by 9.20pm, but the Vincentpiramid The face was too high to make it in one go. We thunderstorms kept me awake most of the night. (from left): Manfred abseiled off the top into thin air, swinging on the Steiger, Tobi rope until we reached the snow below. There we th Helberg, Stefan Day 2: August 7 , 2018 secured ourselves to an , untied from the We woke at 4.00am, sorted our gear and ate breakfast. Tschirk, William Nolan. first rope, connected to another and abseiled down We were returning to the same hut that evening, so we the rest of the way. didn’t need to take everything with us. The first peak By the time we were down safely and the ropes on our list was Vincentpiramid at 4,215m. We only had been retrieved it was noon, too late to attempt stopped briefly on the summit before descending to another summit as the weather was already closing the col again. in. We made a speedy descent and arrived back at Next, there was a steep ascent to the bottom of the the Mantova Hut for lunch. rocky summit of Balmenhorn (4,167m). We climbed ➤ about 15-20 metres up a vertical rock section. On the summit, there was a huge statue of Christ looking down on the emergency shelter located just below the summit. From there we could see the Liskamm Traverse in all of its glory. It looked incredibly difficult. After clambering back down from the summit, we crossed a snowfield towards our next goal, Corno Nero (4,322m) (also known as Schwarzhorn). This was the most exciting summit of the day. We reached the bottom of a 60m-high outcrop, which had a 60- to 65-degree ice face on the right and sheer rock on the left. The left option would require some difficult rock climbing, but the level of , with a drop of thousands of feet, made this option extremely dangerous. We decided to attempt the ice face. Manfred summited first and belayed us as we followed him up. Front-pointing with is very tiring on the Photographs: William Nolan Collection Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 55 THE ALPS

The rain started as I sipped my coffee peacefully and Above: Corno success. For me, the decision to cancel was easy, as looked out at people still high on the mountains, glad to Nero (4,322m). the risk was too high, but the others were undecided. have my day done. The team They phoned the guides again and, after another abseiled off the conversation and some deliberation, they also rock section on th cancelled, feeling that the window was too tight Day 3: August 8 , 2018 the left on the The alarm rang at 4.30am. We needed to pack up descent. even if they set out earlier. everything, as we would be staying in another hut that Below: William th night, ahead of our attempt on the Liskamm Traverse Day 4: August 9 , 2018 begins the The alarm was set for 5.30am, to allow us to have a the following day. abseil off nice lie-in. However, loud thunderstorms kept us We headed up the same glacier as the day before, but Corno Nero. encountered far more traffic on the route this time. Soon we were in crevasse territory and it wasn’t safe to overtake. We got stuck in behind a long queue and had to move very slowly. This was extremely tiring on my legs and by the time we reached the col I was almost exhausted. To my relief, everyone else felt the same and we decided it was best to head cross-country to get ahead of the posse. It worked and soon we were standing looking up at the mighty (4,432m). I had seen photos of it before I got there, but they did do not do it justice. A super-narrow snow ridge with huge drops on either side led us up to the spectacular summit. Descending the ridge took a lot of concentration, as the snow was fresh and soft. Once down, we went over to Ludwigshöhe (4,341m) along another, shorter snow ridge. We took a few epic photos from there before going down and then heading to , which, at 3,647m, was at a higher altitude than the Mantova Hut. We arrived there at 11.30am, leaving Tobi, who was departing, with time to spare, having summited two 4,000m peaks in seven hours. Not bad for a morning’s work! During lunch, our guides for the Liskamm Traverse contacted us. The forecast wasn’t good for Thursday or Friday, with more thunderstorms predicted and a lot of snowfall overnight. The weather window would be five hours at the most, but it would take us around seven hours to do the traverse. The guides reckoned there was only a 50% chance of Photographs: William Nolan Collection Photographs: 56 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 “IT WAS STILL SINKING IN THAT WE Above: A view of but it was worth every second. This felt like a the ridge of proper ending to an expedition, returning HAD JUST SUMMITED SIX 4,000m Parrotspitze triumphantly into the valley like some sort of (4,432m). Alpine heroes of old. Time to ditch the bags and ALPINE PEAKS IN FOUR DAYS.” find the first hotel with room for three extremely Below: William happy mountaineers, who were well overdue a and Manfred shower! descending from awake for long periods during the night. From the the summit of It was still sinking in that we had just summited window we could see a huge line of torchlights Ludwigshöhe six 4,000m peaks. For me, the highlights were ascending the razor-sharp ridge to the ascending the glacier, even more than the previous day. (4,341m). Thankfully, we were going in the opposite direction. wonderfully exposed summit of Parrotspitze, and We packed up everything and descended past the the truly brilliant trek down into the valley through Mantova Hut. Our objective this morning was Punta lush green forests. This trip had it all: glacier Giordani. crossings, rocky climbs, climbs on snow and ice, We found the descent route down a rock face to a difficult ridges, traffic, and good and bad weather. glacier. This was great fun, climbing down using the fixed However, the most important thing had been ropes almost via-ferrata style. It was only at the glacier making that decision to cancel the Liskamm that I realised we were totally alone. No queues of Traverse. The Traverse had excited me and people anywhere. Heaven! The crossing of this glacier dominated my thoughts for a long time, but I was excellent, with hard ice underfoot. We covered the have no regrets about making the decision. For ground very quickly. The ascent proper felt unending me, safety always comes first. and slow as we plunged shin-deep at times into the soft The Traverse can wait ■ snow on the 55-degree slope. Eventually, we made the summit of Punta Giordani (4,046m), which involved a short but extremely exposed scramble to a small statue of the Madonna. From there, the view was extraordinary. We were looking at the previous five 4,000m summits that we had ascended. Our original plan had been to ascend from there up a rocky spur to the summit of Vincentpiramid and descend back down the first glacier past Mantova Hut, but none of us wanted to encounter that traffic again. In the end, we went back down the way we had come up and went directly towards the cable car station. We took two cars down, but the trail I had seen the first day was still on my mind. We decided to skip the final cable car and walk down the trail from there. It took us over an hour to get back to the valley and it was tiring Photographs: William Nolan Collection Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 57 Access & Conservation

Access updates Written by Helen Lawless, Hillwalking, Access & Cuilcagh Mountain Conservation Officer

Trampled area at the top of the Cuilcagh Boardwalk, spring 2019

In response to continued erosion from high visitor numbers in planned for the summit plateau. However, this won’t be the area at the top of the Cuilcagh Boardwalk, and between implemented until next year. there and the summit plateau, plans are being put in place to Mountaineering Ireland is planning an environmental manage visitor activity in a way that minimises further damage. awareness day at Cuilcagh Mountain to take place on Saturday, Visitors to the boardwalk are kindly asked to keep to the October 12th, in conjunction with the CANN project.* This event is designated path and to remain within the confines of the aimed primarily at Club Environmental Officers but will be open viewing platform at the top of the boardwalk. to other members interested in understanding Cuilcagh’s Mountaineering Ireland is asking hillwalkers who want to visit complex story. This study visit will provide an insight into the the summit of Cuilcagh to take other routes on the mountain sequence of events that has led to the current situation, as well and to avoiding using the Cuilcagh Boardwalk, to prevent further as an opportunity to learn about the special features of environmental damage between the viewing platform and the Cuilcagh’s natural environment. Places are limited; if interested, stile, so as not to encourage others onto the fragile summit please email [email protected] ■ plateau. The current platform was created as a short-term measure * The CANN Project is a cross-border environmental project which is working to preserve priority habitats and species at a number of sites across Ireland, Northern and a redesign of this end point or destination area is currently Ireland and Scotland, including at Cuilcagh Mountain. CANN is supported by the EU’s being investigated. Line definition and conservation work is also INTERREG VA Programme. Gleninagh, Twelve Bens

The Bodkin family, who own Gleninagh in the Twelve Bens, house on the way into the Bodkins’ farm, due to changes have asked that climbers and hillwalkers not park along the made around that house. access road to their farm, which is often used by people going Hillwalkers and climbers are still welcome in Gleninagh, but into Carrot Ridge and up to Maumina and Benbaun. they are asked to respect the Bodkins’ request by getting In recent times, the Bodkins have had problems with access dropped off or car-pooling and finding a suitable location to along the roadway to their farm being obstructed by parked park along the Inagh Valley road. As parking space along that vehicles, hence this request for people not to park anywhere road is very limited, Mountaineering Ireland is working with the along the access road. local Rural Recreation Officer to see if a parking solution can It is also no longer possible to park outside the unoccupied be found

Photograph: Helen Lawless Photograph: ■ 58 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Responsible Enjoyment of Special Places with Empathy, Care and Trust Watch your footing

Hillwalking and scrambling on steep, damp and rocky terrain sometimes brings us into places where we’re delicately balanced; places where nature is delicately balanced too. Due to their inaccessibility to grazing animals, cliffs, steep slopes and gullies are places that provide a vital refuge for rare plants, which are often small and inconspicuous. Nature’s ability to withstand the impact of footfall is limited by thin soils and the shorter growing season in the mountains. Higher rainfall levels, combined with steeper gradients, means that the erosive action of water is more significant. Irish saxifrage on Mt Brandon An example is the Eisc on , which holds an important

population of the rare and beautiful Irish saxifrage (Saxigfraga rosacea), more noticeable over the summer when it is in flower. On fragile terrain like this, where the impact of recreational activity is greater, we have an added responsibility to enjoy the mountains with care. We can reduce our impact on vulnerable habitats and species by: • Keeping within the existing path line and not short-cutting on zig-zags; • Using steep and badly eroded routes in ascent, rather than descent, • Avoiding these routes when ground conditions are wet; • Keeping group size small. Irish saxifrage growing beside the path on the Eisc, Mt Brandon Enjoy the mountains responsibly this summer! ■ Fresh mandate for Comhairle na Tuaithe Dr Liam Twomey appointed as Chairperson

Mountaineering Ireland the Minister’s reflection on a leadership and coordination The rejuvenated Comhairle welcomed the 2016 review of the Comhairle role to ensure that Ireland’s na Tuaithe will have announcement in June by and discussions last year with outdoor recreation sector responsibility for advising the the Minister for Rural & Comhairle members. evolves in a way that is Minister on a wide range of Community Development, Responding to the recent positive for participants, matters relating to the future Michael Ring TD, of a new meeting, Mountaineering landowners and local development of Ireland’s mandate for Comhairle na Ireland Chairperson Paul communities, and that is growing outdoor recreation Tuaithe, the national advisory Barron said: “It’s great to see environmentally sustainable.” sector. Comhairle na Tuaithe body on outdoor recreation. Comhairle na Tuaithe coming Mountaineering Ireland has is meeting again shortly to Minister Ring also alive again, and especially been a member of Comhairle agree a clear vision for its introduced Dr Liam Twomey good to see the health and na Tuaithe since the body was work and to start the process as the new Chairperson of well-being benefits of established in 2004 and has of developing a new work the Comhairle. Dr Twomey outdoor recreation reflected made an active contribution programme. brings valuable experience to in the new mandate for to the work of the Comhairle, The Department of Rural & this role, both as a former TD Comhairle na Tuaithe. especially in relation to the Community Development is and through his work in “There is an opportunity Comhairle’s pilot Mountain also establishing an inter- general practice. now for the Department of Access Project and the departmental working group The rejuvenation of Rural & Community development of a booklet on on outdoor recreation as part Comhairle na Tuaithe follows Development to adopt a access and occupiers’ liability. of its new structures

Photographs: Helen Lawless Photographs: ■ Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 59 Training

Written by Jane Carney, Recent and upcoming events Training Officer Brief reports on training news and events of note run by the Training Office Meets Training awards and Mountaineering Ireland Alpine Meet registration fees Increases to the registration fees for the Leadership and ■ Argentière, , France, July 6-20th, 2019 Instructor Awards came into effect on January 1st, 2019, when a The 2019 Summer Alpine Meet, with its strong youth registration fee was also introduced for the Skills schemes. participation focus, has drawn 50% of its participants from the 18 to 25-year-old age group. Their attendance is being ■ Leadership and Instructor Award registration fees will be facilitated by a very generous bursary fund, which increased from €50 to €52 (£45 to £47). substantially reduces the overall costs for the attendees. The standard of applicants ranged from the very experienced to ■ Rock Skills Scheme registration fee for over-18s: €22 (£20). the virgin alpinists. The meet will serve to plant the seeds of (Under-18s free.) a desire for further Alpine adventures in a cohort of Mountain Skills Scheme registration fee for over-18s: €22 enthusiastic young participants. ■ (£20). (Under-18s free.) The Alpine Meet expands the skill-set of walkers and climbers primarily based in Ireland, with the Scottish Winter ■ Indoor Climbing Assistant registration fee: €22 (£20). Meet serving to develop their winter techniques. Therefore, Mountaineering Ireland offers skills training for Alpine ■ Climbing Wall Development Instructor: €69 (£57). walking, mountaineering and climbing alongside shorter duration refresher workshops in glacier travel, crevasse ■ Rock Climbing Development Instructor: €69 (£57). rescue, movement skills and learning to lead climb, boulder ■ All award candidates can avail of the reduced and scramble. The Alpine setting provides something for all, Mountaineering Ireland membership rate of €30 at time of including families, students on a low budget and registration ■ experienced and inexperienced participants. Tracks are well signed, huts provide accommodation and food in the high mountains, and campsites keep costs low and give access to the remote areas of the Alps. Every Alpine trip made and Alpine area visited offers a unique adventure opportunity News for providers that can keep you busy for a lifetime. IMPORTANT: QQI (formerly FETAC) Level 4 Rock Skills stays. The courses are run at cost and not for profit, and are just ■ The QQI Rock Skills Module will remain as a QQI offering. It had one of the many benefits of membership of Mountaineering been proposed that it would be removed from the QQI list. This Ireland ■ will not happen and the module remains. The Level 4 Rock Skills aligns to the NGB Rock Skills Introduction and Intermediate, launched in January 2019.

■ The provider handbook and agreement are being reviewed and edited, and the latest version will be posted on the website shortly. If you spot any errors, please contact the Training Office.

■ Providers are reminded to continue to submit course reports in a timely manner and evidence of assessment forms for all pass candidates of the ML, RCI, MPA, LLA and Level 1 Climbing Coach awards should include useful feedback and actions.

■ Data Protection Slides. Providers are reminded to use these slides when delivering any ML,RCI, MPA, LLA or L1 CC courses.

■ Providers are again reminded to start populating course reports early, to flag any issues pre-course, such as candidates with lapsed membership, those not registered and those using the wrong email or membership number. Colleges and outdoor courses are asked to submit manual registration forms well ahead of any courses (6-8 weeks before) ■ Photograph: Jane Carney Collection Jane Carney Photograph:

60 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 Key dates 2019

6-20th July Summer Alpine Meet, • Argentière, Chamonix, France 6-8th Sept Burren Climbing Meet • 8th September MTBI Training Meeting, Belfast • 14th September Skills Workshops (Navigation, • Scrambling, Rock Climbing), Wicklow 15th September Skills Workshops (Navigation, • Scrambling, Rock Climbing), Trainer at the Tollymore Mountain Centre outdoor wall Wicklow 20-21st Sept Mountain and Rock Skills • Providers Workshop 8-10th Oct MTUK meeting, Plas y Brenin Update on rock climbing module • 15-17th Nov Student Training & Safety • Seminar, Tollymore National on instructor training courses Outdoor Centre 2nd December MTBI Training Meeting Outdoor courses available in Ireland that offer Quality and Qualification • 6th December Senior Providers workshop Ireland (QQI) awards and modules need to be aware of the recent • (CPD), Wicklow/Dublin changes to the Single- Award (Rock Climbing Instructor) QQI Level 30-31st January Train the Trainers Workshop 5 and 6 modules. Mountaineering Ireland has four modules within the • 1-2nd February Club Training Officers QQI listings: (1) Level 5 Mountain Skills; (2) Level 4 Rock Skills; (3) Level 5 • Workshop Single-Pitch Award Training; and (4) Level 6 Single-Pitch Award 15-23rd February Winter Meet Assessment. • 6-9th March Mountain Leader Assessment The changes to the climbing awards need to be adopted by those • offering the Level 5 and 6 Single-Pitch Awards. The key changes are: Please see the website or contact the Training Office on (01) 625 1112 for further details. Please book early! The experience requirements pre-training and assessment are now • to include indoor and outdoor leads. (The fully bolted outdoor sport climbing venue, Altnadue Quarry, Castlewellan, is now open.) The duration of the training course has increased from two to three • days (20 to 24 hours, to include one full day at a climbing wall). The introduction of two new and additional modules: (1) Teaching • Skills and (2) Managing an Assistant. Please contact the Training Office to discuss the transitional arrangements for candidates and the course requirements for trainers and those managing outdoor course provision. The Training Officer, Jane Training at the outdoor wall at Tollymore Mountain Centre Carney, can be contacted for further details on (01) 625 1112 ■ News for members ■ Induction for the new award, Rock Climbing Development Instructor, took placeon May 24th, based in Tollymore National Outdoor Centre. It is envisaged that 2-4 courses per annum will be offered by the providers of this award. ■ Thank you to those who submitted Training Grant applications for the June 2019 Mountain Training Board Ireland (MTBI) meeting, and congratulations to all successful applicants. New applications are now being accepted for quarter 3 and 4 for review in December 2019. ■ The Skills workshops were a great success in May and bookings are open for the September courses. ■ Please see the National Guidelines for Climbing and Walking Leaders and the Good Practice Guidelines for Hillwalkers, available on the Training pages/Training Downloads on the Mountaineering Ireland website ■

Indoor class at Tollymore Mountain Centre

Photographs: Jane Carney Photographs: Stay safe out there! Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 61 GOOD PRACTICE GUIDES

Negotiating the traverse on pitch 4 of Great Gully Ridge, Fraughan Glen, , Co Wicklow No 4: CLIMBING MULTI-PITCH TRAD

In the fourth in our series of Climbing Good Practice Guides, rock climber Clare Sheridan offers her advice on climbing multi-pitch trad routes.

ou are sitting in the sun at ● Rope management The five-pitch Great Gully Ridge route the top of the crag, well ● Escaping the system/self-rescue pleased with your lead. You ● Retreating//descending. climbed confidently, got good gear in without too much Whether these skills are learned from Yfaffing around and then made short a climbing buddy, an instructor or from work of setting up a solid belay . the internet (see ‘Going Outside,’ IML 129), Time to bring your second up, and you’ll need to practise them and check maybe it is time also to think of moving your systems in a low-stress on to multi-pitch routes. environment like before Mastering multi-pitch trad will give you access to some of the best climbing A Fair Head that Ireland has to offer, as well as rack; heavy helping you develop skills that are the but better basis for all serious mountaineering. than a scary run-out Skills you will need So, what additional skills do you need? As well as knowing how to place protection, build anchors and belay efficiently, you’ll need to develop some expertise in the following:

● Constructing a belay on steep rock ● Route-finding

➤ Clare Sheridan is a rock climber and alpinist and is a member of the Mountaineering Ireland Climbing Committee. Photographs: Clare Sheridan Collection Clare Photographs: 62 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 putting them to the test on a long climb. following, with the choice of doubles When you start up a big rock face, you depending on the type of climbing: are committing to an environment whose demands will go well beyond the ● with screw-gate technical difficulty of the climbing. So, keep it simple when choosing your first ● Two half ropes multi-pitch route – pick a two-pitch ● A full set of nuts plus doubles of climb that has a straightforward sizes 3 to 7 approach, a ledge to belay on, an easy- ● Cams: 0 to 5 DMM Dragon cams, to-follow line that can be viewed from or 0 to 4 Black Diamond, plus some below, and an uncomplicated walk-off doubles or hexes in the middle sizes descent. ● Slings: 1 x 240cm, 3 x 120cm, plus 4 screw-gates The gear you will need ● and extenders: In addition to your single-pitch rack, you 6 x 18cm, 4 x 25cm, 4 x 60cm will need extra gear on longer climbs for ● A bandolier/gear sling the setting up of belays. Beyond that, ● key your rack for multi-pitch routes comes ● Two prussiks. down to the type of climbing involved (is there any specific gear recommended in Always think ahead the guidebook you are using?). together Your mid-climb belay should be rigged with your own preferences and the to cope with an upward as well as a depth of your pockets. downward pull. The protection you would use in a Fair The rope needs to be managed so Head hand-jam crack is obviously that it will run smoothly for the leader, different to what will fit snugly in a and it must not be let slip below the shallow crack in Glendalough, but you belay, where it could snag. Pitch 3 (crux) of Great Gully Ridge will still carry the same basic rack, as The leader should put in a runner as there will always be a variety of soon as possible above the belay so before you leave the ground, is there placements and you will need options there will be no shock loading on the anything else you might need – route for the belay anchor. anchor in the event of a slip. description, windproof, shoes for the The multi-pitch rack I use is the You may be gone for some time, so, descent? ■

The second pitch of Chieftain, Fair Head, Co Antrim Recommended multi-pitch routes Of the hundreds of multi-pitch routes in Ireland, the following three might be a good place to start:

■ Quartz Gully (HS) is an excellent introduction to the climbing in Glendalough, its two pitches running up the fine stretch of granite that forms the main face.

■ Fair Head is best known for the demanding Extremes that creep up its soaring cracks and steep walls, but its most popular climb, Chieftain, is a very reasonable VS. It follows grooves and cracks for two pitches up the spectacular main face near the Ballycastle descent gully and, with its easy access and comfortable belay, it is well worth a visit.

■ Back to Wicklow and, for a grand day out, it would be hard to beat Great Gully Ridge (HS) in Glenmalure. Set high on the side of the beautiful Fraughan Glen, it gives 140m of pleasant, well-protected climbing in short pitches with comfortable belays. It also gives valuable mountaineering experience, as you have to decide which approach you’ll take (none of them are handy) and which descent (ditto) and whether you’ll put your trust in the proliferating fixed gear. Whatever you decide, it will be your own choice and your own responsibility as you make the most of an adventurous day in the mountains. – Clare Sheridan Photographs: Clare Sheridan Collection Clare Photographs: Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 63 Photographs: Wikipedia (Snowdon), James Forrest Collection (James Forrest in the Reeks) and downsized hishome, as involved. Hechanged jobs considerable preparation for the challenge and the camped in the hills. named ‘Dennis’ andwild- save time, hecarrieda tent and days off from work. To challenge duringweekends author’s plan to complete the months. but noneinaslittlesix replicated that achievement, Many peoplehave since England and189in Wales). all 446in1990(257 registered ashaving climbed who were the first climbers after Anne and John Nuttall, England and Wales, named Nuttalls, hillsover 2,000ft in months. climb 446mountains insix hobby, butForrest decided to start adiet or take upanew situation might go onholiday, that. Others in the same something to change allof James Forrest decided to do unmotivated andunhappy, Tired of feeling unfit, ISBN 978-1-84486-563-5 Conway (2019), 264pp, £16.99, By James Forrest Completing a round of the Nuttalls in just six months 64 ADVENTURE RECORD-BREAKING ONE MONTHS. MOUNTAINS.SIX 446 MAN: MOUNTAIN Forrest describeshisplans This book describes the He chose to take on the Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish Books deprecating way. Hecharts entertaining andself- relates hisadventures inan and humorous, asForrest fifteen year-old rucksack. hiking boots andcarrieda even wore hisother half’s old £45 onkitfor the trip; he his incomedropped. JamesForrest intheReeks ofKerry during hisround of the Vandeleur- Lynams in 2018 (see ‘Round the Vandeleur-Lynams,’ The highest of the Nuttalls: Snowdon (1,085m), viewed from . The tone of the book islight He managed to spendonly photos, this isanenjoyable be familiar with. something allhillwalkers will country, and that is through inhospitablehill described asmiserable slogs Some walks were best very low points along the way. challenge. There were some the highsand the lows of the Complete withcolour IML 128). Co Louth hillwalking clubbasedinDrogheda, member of Tredagh Trekkers, a Pamela Harbison book. across in this well-written adventure, and that comes outdoors andakeen senseof as well asalove of the motivation onForrest’s part, demonstrates ahighlevel of whether Ihaddone them all! was following along to check weather was badandnoone skip apeak or two, if the would have been tempted to inspirational, butI think I The story iscertainly working andmoving house. complete this challenge while adventure. Hemanaged to there andmake their own who wants to, to get out humorous. each peak shortand keeping the descriptions of reader. Hemanages this by maintain interest for the adventure suchas this is to challenge indescribingan with the peaks he visited. The enjoyable for readers familiar read, anditwill beparticularly Completing this challenge Forrest encourages anyone Hillwalker anda Summer 2019 Summer Literary Editor Personal stories from fifty Cicerone authors Peter O’Neill presents reviews of some recently published books.

Buy now This is the book we recommend most highly from our summer 2019 reviews

CICERONE: CELEBRATING by lightning on the Cobbler in FIFTY YEARS OF ADVENTURE Scotland is one of those 1969-2019 unlucky/lucky incidents. Contributing editor: The photos are fabulous. Kev Reynolds Every place visited in the book Cicerone Press (2018), 160pp (hdbk), has photos taken by the colour photos on most pages, £25.00 (ppbk), ISBN 978-1-78631-030-9 authors, and many are full page-size for maximum effect. This is one of those books that An interesting chapter in the gave me a lovely surprise book is on the history of when I opened it. Cicerone, Cicerone. Its success has publishers of over 400 largely been attributed to the guidebooks, have compiled passion of co-founders Brian fifty stories from over forty of A picture from the chapter ‘The Cicerone story: from then to now’ and Aileen Evans and Walt and its authors, who have (clockwise from top left): Walt Unsworth, Dolomites, 1976; Dorothy Dorothy Unsworth, and later contributed to Cicerone over Unsworth and the children climbing on the glacier, , 1964; Brian the present owners Jonathan the last fifty years. Evans on Gimmer Crag, Langdale, c1962 (photo by Tony Greenbank); Brian and Lesley Williams. They are and Aileen Evans, Upper Wortley, Leeds, c1957. All of the contributors have all keen outdoor enthusiasts a passion for the outdoors and and, except for the Unsworths, each one recounts a personal recounting his honeymoon in when he is ordered by the who are deceased, have also story (each one can be read in the Stubai Alps; Madeline leader to descend even written for this book. a few minutes) from their Williams on horseback in the though he feels fit and strong. The stories and landscapes travels. These short stories all wild Tien Shan of Kyrgyzstan; He returns the following year in this compilation will inspire have one thing in common – or Alan Hinkes summiting K2 as he had a stone from adventure. Not necessarily on his third attempt. Carrauntoohil to deposit on you to get into the outdoors dangerous, but having an The stories are grouped in the Andean summit. immediately and start interest in the unknown sections for the UK, Europe There are a few additional checking out new guidebooks ahead. (unfortunately no adventures tales of mishaps and to far-flung places. Readers will not have to be in Ireland) and worldwide, misadventures while the collectors of the successful though Jim Ryan, Irish authors were researching Nicky Hore Hillwalker and trekker, member of Blayney Ramblers, and Cicerone guidebooks, that mountaineer and writer, routes for their guidebooks. past Honorary Treasurer and Board have helped many trekkers, recounts a tale on Aconcagua, Dan Bailey’s tale of being hit Member of Mountaineering Ireland trail walkers, mountaineers and cyclists find their way safely, to enjoy this entertaining coffee-table book. Dip into these pages and you might find Kev Reynolds, probably the most prolific guidebook writer, enjoying a trek with his daughter in the Bernese Alps; Aileen Evans gazing across the to the Mourne Mountains from the summits of the Isle of Man; Allan Hartley, one-time president of the Austrian Alpine Club, Sample story from the book: ‘Signal Forbes’ by Kingsley Jones Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 65 The Last Word

Irish deaths on Everest Shay Lawless

This has been a bad year so far for fatalities on Everest, with a total of eleven known deaths there in the pre-monsoon climbing season. Sadly, two of those who died were Irish climbers. Seamus ‘Shay’ Lawless, a Professor of Artificial Intelligence at Trinity College Dublin, was 39 years old and married with one daughter. He was attempting to complete the Seven Summits challenge when he died in a fall from the Balcony at 8,200m, just hours after successfully summiting on Everest by the South Col route from Nepal. Shay, who lived in Bray, Co Wicklow, was raising funds for Barretstown children’s charity. An attempt to locate his body was abandoned in the severe and deteriorating weather Kevin Hynes conditions, to avoid further loss of life. Kevin Hynes, who was a 56-year-old from Galway and married with two children, had reached Camp 3 on the Tibetan north side of Everest and was descending. He died in his tent at the North Col at 7,000m during the night, probably from altitude-related problems. Kevin was attempting to climb Everest for the second time, having previously summited on Everest and Lhotse from Nepal. Mountaineering Ireland offers its sincere condolences to the family and friends of Shay Lawless and Kevin Hynes on their tragic losses ■ Crossword results

The winner of our Christmas crossword in IML 129 was Noreen Caulfield from Gorey, Co Wexford. Noreen won a pair of Scarpa Terra GTX boots from our crossword sponsor, Basecamp. The solution to the crossword is shown below. Mountaineering Ireland will contact the winner to tell her how to arrange to collect her prize from Basecamp.

Mt Elbrus (5,642m) from Gum-bashi Pass 1 2 3 4 5 6

7S A P A S A L A T A A Irishman dies on Mt Elbrus M O U N T A I N E E R 8E A M A 9E A M A 10N A Ê A L P P A P T A T Alan Mahon, a forty-year-old father of three from A

Monasterevin, Co Kildare, was in a group of ten climbers who R 11A E A 12A A E A 13A A E were attempting to climb ’s Mount Elbrus (5,642m) from 14A A D V E N T U R E 15A the north side when he died at the end of June. S A A A N A A A E A T The group included four other experienced Irish 16 17 18 19 mountaineers, who all descended safely. Mount Elbrus is the P E G A C A L G A R Y highest mountain in Europe. 20I A A A A A I A G A R The climb had been carefully planned and the group were K I L I M A N J A R O camped just below the summit at 5,300m, considering how they should summit, when the weather changed earlier than E A E A P A E A N A L had been expected. In the severe weather conditions that ensued, with a white-out and very strong winds, the group took shelter in a nearby emergency hut. After two days there, they decided to descend when there was a break in the weather. It is understood that Alan became unwell during the descent. A mountain rescue team was summoned and made attempts to evacuate him, but sadly his condition deteriorated and he died on the mountain on June 30th, 2019. Mountaineering Ireland offers its sincere condolences to the

Photograph: LxAndrew (Mt Elbrus) LxAndrew Photograph: family and friends of Alan Mahon following his tragic death ■ 66 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2019 THE HIDDEN CANARIES Three beautiful islands – La Gomera, La Palma, El Hierro 7-Day Adventures – October to May • Wonderful Walking; Spectacular Scenery • €445 Holiday price includes accommodation, • ferries, car rental and daily guided walks

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Summer 2019 Irish Mountain Log 67 For more information visit www.mountaineering.ie or contact the office on (01) 625 1115

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