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Irish Successes on K2 Patagonia First Ascent Autumn 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 127 Irish successes on K2 Two summit ten years after first Irish ascent Patagonia first ascent All-female team climbs Avellano Tower www.mountaineering.ie Photo: Chris Hill (Tourism Ireland) Chris Hill (Tourism Photo: 2 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2018 A word from the edItor ISSUE 127 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and elcome! Autumn is here registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, with a bang. There is a National Sports Campus, nip in the air and the Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. leaves on the trees are Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 assuming that wonderful In the Greater ranges and in the Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 [email protected] golden-brownW hue. Alps, the effects of climate ❝ www.mountaineering.ie This has been an exciting year so far for change are very evident. Irish mountaineers climbing in the Greater Hot Rock Climbing Wall Ranges (see our report, page 20). In Nepal, In the Greater Ranges and in the Alps, the Tollymore Mountain Centre there were two more Irish ascents of Bryansford, Newcastle effects of climate change are very evident. County Down, BT33 0PT Everest, bringing the total to fifty-nine Climate change is no longer a theoretical Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 since the first ascent, twenty-five years possibility, it is happening. As mountaineers, [email protected] ago, by Dawson Stelfox in 1993. who may have been visiting these places The Irish Nepalese Educational Trust Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan for decades, we are all too aware of these Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) (INET), which was set up after that first changes. We have seen glaciers receding [email protected] successful expedition, continues to and the impact on the snowline, in the Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill support schools in Nepal. summer and in the winter, and on the lower [email protected] In the Karakorum, in July, Noel Hanna ski resorts. In Sweden, the highest Features Editor: Aisling Spain [email protected] from Co Down and Jason Black from Co mountain there is shrinking because of Donegal, made the second and third Irish melting snow and ice (see our report, page The Irish Mountain Log is published by ascents respectively of K2 (8,611m), the 15). In the Alps, ski resorts are closing and Mountaineering Ireland four times a second highest peak on the planet and ski mountaineering is becoming more year, in March, June, September, December. The material published in arguably the most dangerous. Ten years challenging (see our feature, page 50). In the Log by the voluntary editorial team ago, in 2008, Ger McDonnell from Limerick the Greater Ranges, the receding glaciers and contributors must not be taken as made the first Irish ascent, but, sadly, he and rising snowlines are ever more official Mountaineering Ireland policy died assisting others on the descent. apparent. We all need to make efforts to unless specifically stated. Climbing K2, the ‘Savage Mountain,’ is reduce our impact on global warming, to Copy deadline for the Winter 2018 issue certainly a very challenging endeavour. It is protect the environment we cherish and to of the Irish Mountain Log is Friday, a more technical climb than Everest and protect the world we live in. November 2nd 2018. more prone to extreme weather and I hope the promised milder weather will Advertising: [email protected] subjective dangers such as avalanches. allow us all to continue to enjoy the Successful ascents of K2 are very uplands in some comfort for a while longer. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, significant achievements, therefore. Our [email protected] fullest congratulations to both climbers. Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the promotes safety and good practice Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. advice and through the Mountain ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a range of training programmes for To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the Above the cloud, darach Ó murchú in Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please the evening sun on faha ridge, mount walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. Brandon, Co Kerry. PHOTOGRAPH Gerry GAllIGAN Autumn 2018 Irish Mountain Log 3 CONTENTS Autumn 2018 On the Mountaineering Ireland Environment Weekend on Achill Island, Co Mayo, at the end of May. See report, page 22. 16 Mountain rescue call-outs 38 A newbie at the News increase Alpine Meet 5 Host club sought for Spring Ruth Cunniffe of Mountain Rescue By Caroline Kirrane Gathering Ireland reports Ruth Whelan reports 42 Expedition to Patagonia 17 Access for climbing at Old By Freja Shannon 5 Club Support Meetings Head of Kinsale Ruth Whelan reports 46 The easiest 6,000m peak: Helen Lawless reports a rough guide to Stok Kangri 6 New National Children’s 18 Nepal-Ireland Day 2018 By Seán Cryan Officer appointed Patrick O’Sullivan reports Murrough McDonagh reports 50 Ski touring and climate 19 Banff Mountain Film Festival change 7 Autumn Gathering 2018 Patrick O’Sullivan reports By Áine Sills 8 Lynam Lecture 2018 9 Sports Capital Grant News Features Regulars Funding announced Damien O’Sullivan reports 20 Everest and K2 climbs 54 Access & Conservation Patrick O’Sullivan reports Helen Lawless reports 10 Get Ireland Walking Jason King reports on the project’s 22 Mountaineering Ireland’s 56 Training latest ventures Environment Weekend Jane Carney reports 12 Membership renewals Paula McHale reports 58 Navigation training: Ruth Whelan reports 24 Hiking in Glenasmole magnetic variation 13 Benefits of membership By Brian Madden By Jane Carney Everything that membership of 26 The PURE Mile Project 60 Climbing good practice Mountaineering Ireland provides Ian Davis reports guides: in-situ abseil 14 Burren Climbing Meet anchors A report by Alexander Kay Climbing By John Healy 15 Climate change reduces 62 Books 28 Coaching young climbers Reviews of recent publications Sweden’s highest peak By Rachel Smith and Catherine Feeney 66 The Last Word John Quinn 30 European Youth Cup – Bouldering Anna de Souza reports 32 European Youth Bouldering Championship Tommy Myles reports 32 Lead Climbing Championship Damien O’Sullivan reports Features Noel Hanna on summit of K2 Summit selfie on the Tooth in Patagonia 34 Tory Hill: master of all IRISH K2 SUMMIT ASCENT it surveys IRISH PATAGONIA EXPEDITION 2018 20 By Vernon Buckley 42 Photographs: Brona Duddy (Achill Island), Noel Hanna Collection (Noel Hanna on K2), Irish Patagonia Expedition 2018 (summit selfie) (summit Expedition 2018 Irish Patagonia (Noel Hanna on K2), Noel Hanna Collection Island), (Achill Duddy Brona Photographs: 4 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2018 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected] Staff Chief executive Officer Newsdesk Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] Host club sought for Gathering Membership Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] Hillwalking, access Mountaineering Ireland is seeking a club, or clubs, to host the 2019 & Conservation Officer Spring Gathering next March. Helen Lawless, [email protected] training Officer By Ruth Whelan (Membership Mountaineering Ireland will hold its Jane Carney, [email protected] Development Officer) 2019 Annual General Meeting at the training Office administrator Spring Gathering, along with the usual Laura Griffin, [email protected] Does your club have an anniversary in Members’ Forum, an informal meeting talent Development Officer 2019 or another special event it wishes to which is also open to all members. Damien O’Sullivan, celebrate? Why not host Mountaineering The Spring Gathering will be held over [email protected] Ireland’s Spring Gathering 2019 and the weekend of 29-31st March, 2019. If Youth Development Officer for share your celebrations with like-minded northern ireland your club would be interested in hosting hillwalkers and climbers from around the Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] this important weekend in the Project Coordinator, indoor island of Ireland? The Spring Gathering is always such an Mountaineering Ireland calendar, please Climbing/Social inclusion Project contact Ruth Whelan, Membership Natasza Berlowska, enjoyable weekend for all involved, as the [email protected] host club or clubs highlight the best that Development Officer, by email at their local area has to offer in terms of [email protected] or phone Get irelanD WalkinG initiative hillwalking and rock climbing. (01) 625 1196 ■ Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking Jason King, [email protected] Project Coordinator, Get ireland
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