V4362_JG_Exped Cover_AW 1/5/08 15:44 Page 1 Jagged Globe Jagged NEW! xeiin Treks Expeditions &

www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Our new website contains detailed trip itineraries 2008 for the expeditions and treks contained in this brochure,

photo galleries and recent trip reports. / 2009 You can also book securely online and find out about new trips and offers by subscribing to our email newsletter.

Jagged Globe The Foundry Studios, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield S3 8EN United Kingdom Expeditions Tel: 0845 345 8848 Email: [email protected] Web: www.jagged-globe.co.uk & Treks Cover printed on Take 2 Front Cover: Offset 100% recycled fibre Mingma Temba Sherpa. sourced only from post Photo: Simon Lowe. 2008/2009 consumer waste. Inner Design by: pages printed on Take 2 www.vividcreative.com Silk 75% recycled fibre. © 2007 V4362 V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:10 Page 2

Ama Dablam Welcome to ‘The Matterhorn of the Himalayas.’ Jagged Globe Ama Dablam dominates the Khumbu Valley. Whether you are trekking to Everest Base Camp, or approaching the mountain to attempt its summit, you cannot help but be astounded by its striking profile. Here members of our 2006 expedition climb the airy south Expeditions & Treks west ridge towards Camp 2. See page 28. Photo: Tom Briggs. The trips

The Mountains of Asia 22 Ama Dablam: A Brief History 28 Photo: Simon Lowe Porter Aid Post Update 23 Annapurna Circuit Trek 30 Teahouses of Nepal 23 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 30 The Seven Summits 12 Everest Base Camp Trek 24 Lhakpa Ri & The North Col 31 The Seven Summits Challenge 13 Everest Team Trek 24 Altai Climber 32 Kilimanjaro 14 NEW! High Passes to Everest 25 Nubra Summits 33 Kilimanjaro – Umbwe Route 15 NEW! Everest Base Camp Stok Kangri 33 Kilimanjaro – Lemosho Glades Trek 15 & Island Peak 25 K2 Base Camp & Ghondokoro La 34 Kilimanjaro – Route Choice 15 Mera & Island Peak 26 Rush Peak & The Hunza Valley 35 Aconcagua 16 Mera Peak 27 Spantik 36 Khumbu Climber 27 Muztag Ata 36 Training for Aconcagua 16 Ama Dablam 28 Cathedral Peak 37 Denali West Buttress 17 Denali Traverse 17 Denali West Rib 17 South & Central America 38 Photo: Thierry Levenq Carstensz Pyramid 18 Alpamayo 39 Vinson 19 Peru 2007 report 39 Elbrus 19 Huascaran 40 The South Pole – The Last Degree 19 Bolivian Climber 41 Everest South Col 20 Antisana 42 Ecuador Volcanoes 43 Mexican Volcanoes 43

The Rest of the World 44 Rwenzori Mountains 44

The Cold Regions 46 Greenland Icecap Crossing 47 Greenland Explorer 48 Greenland Explorer 2007 report 49 Antarctic Climber 48 The 8,000 Metre Peaks 50 The 8,000m Leaders 50 Photo: Simon Lowe Cho Oyu 52 Gasherbrum II 53 Shishapangma 53

The details 21 years at the top 4 The Mountaineering Specialist 6 First Ascents in the Nubra Valley 8 Trip Selector 10 The People of Jagged Globe 54 Our Leaders 54 Important Information 56 Booking Form 57 Booking Conditions 58 For more information on any of our trips please call 0845 345 8848 or email [email protected] or visit our website at www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:10 Page 4 21years at the top It has been an amazingly good year, which started with the Caudwell Xtreme Everest expedition and its supporting treks. This whole enterprise enabled pioneering medical research and we are immensely proud of having been part of it. We would like to thank all 216 people who joined the treks for their invaluable contribution to the research by providing the raw data that will have benefits for many people, far beyond the mountains. But, as with all successful expeditions, we must especially thank the porters and our Sherpas. Simply, they were superb in carrying a colossal amount of specialist equipment, which allowed groundbreaking experiments to take place all the way from Kathmandu and as far as the very summit of Everest, pausing only to place exercise bikes on the South Col. As for supporting the people who support us, we will continue financing and equipping the porter aid post at Khare, which climbers pass on the way to Mera Peak. Also, we are anxious to improve things for porters on Kilimanjaro, especially as there have been rumours of some getting hypothermia. Therefore we will be sending 300 fleeces and waterproofs to Tanzania this year, which porters will be able to use, whether or not they’re working for us. Having first been to the head of the Hongu Valley in 1991, Simon Lowe was saddened this year when he witnessed porters from another team wearing only training shoes (instead of boots) to cross the steep ice, snow and rock cliffs of the Amphu Laptsa. This is a hazardous challenge, even to the well-equipped. So, we shan’t lift our gaze from Nepal, and we will continue in trying to raise standards for porters who go to the wildest and remotest parts of the Himalaya. Fortunately, Simon was not the only one let out of Sheffield this year: Tom Briggs went to Ama Dablam; Matt Parkes escorted a caravan of liquid nitrogen from Jiri to Everest Base Camp; Natalie Hawthorn climbed Kilimanjaro and Adele Pennington finished the year on the top of Cho Oyu. Of course, this is all great fun for us, but the serious purpose is to ensure that we remain up-to-date so that whenever you call, someone here can offer you the best, most recent, first-hand advice available. We hope you will enjoy this brochure and Everest South Col that you will call us soon to discuss going to the mountains with Jagged Globe in 2008. 2007 was a memorable Everest season.

Jagged Globe organised the Caudwell Xtreme Everest expedition that carried out pioneering medical research and put ten doctors and 15 sherpas on the summit. The Jagged Globe team was also successful. Here Tom Lehane descends carefully down the Yellow Band, a prominent feature on the Lhotse Face, with the south summit above. See page 20 for details of our 2008 expedition. Photo: Iain Peter.

4/5 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:11 Page 6

The Caudwell Xtreme Everest team approaching the summit of Everest, 24 May 2007. the mountaineering Photo: Roger McMorrow

Hazard Warning in a trip needs to consider If you are injured, problems this very seriously and to with infrastructure alone can When something becomes take responsibly for their mean a delayed evacuation and predictable and absolutely own participation. so a worse medical outcome than safe, it ceases to be exciting for a similar accident nearer to or to be an adventure. For an Our trips are fascinating home. activity to be adventurous it and exciting, well beyond the must have an uncertain outcome realms of what can be achieved We hope that joining one of and it will carry risks. Going into by staying near to home, not our trips will set your pulse racing specialist mountainous regions is implicitly simply because of the mountains and your imagination soaring. hazardous, and if we add to we visit, but because of the In order to take part in a truly that an adventurous activity, astonishing parts of the world we exciting, adventurous activity with Whether your goal is to trek or climb, Jagged Globe has a then by necessity the hazards go to. Sadly, some of these are all the rewards of experiencing are increased. This implies an impoverished. This alone is an diverse cultures and sharing wide-range of quality mountain experiences for you to choose from. inherent and intractable risk of important incentive to go but it unforgettable memories with injury or, in the extreme, death. means we operate invariably in newly found friends, you have Anyone considering taking part regions with limited infrastructure. to accept the risks involved.

Expeditions Treks Courses More Information & Booking A mountaineering expedition Most of our trekking itineraries Jagged Globe offers a is a complete adventure, where were designed to deliver comprehensive range of For more detailed information about the expeditions your existing skills will flourish mountaineers to Base Camps, training courses. These will and treks featured in this brochure, please visit our as a member of a team of well acclimatised, ready to improve your technical skills website: www.jagged-globe.co.uk You are welcome like-minded mountaineers. climb. We have always done so that you can take part, to call our fully staffed office to discuss any of our trips this extremely well. For example, confidently, in expeditions to and to book a place 0845 345 8848. Office opening When in the mountains, the on Kilimanjaro we usually get the Greater Ranges, if that is times 9am-5.30pm Monday to Friday. focus will be on broadening your everyone to the top, simply your ambition, or undertake experience as a mountaineer because we know how some of our harder treks. Many in an expedition context; for people acclimatise, and of our expedition leaders also example, by enabling you to we plan accordingly. instruct on our courses and they set a personal height record, can give you expert guidance to extend yourself physically and Whether trekker or climber, as to suitable treks and climbs. mentally, to test your climbing we believe that everyone Even if you are not planning skills at extreme altitudes and should benefit from the same future trips to the high mountains, to cope with extreme conditions, well-paced itineraries, under the courses are brilliant, just on whilst all the time revelling in the the care of experienced their own. Indeed, those without simple thrill of being among the high-altitude leaders. any aspirations to climb or trek high mountains. Fundamental If you compare our trekking can enjoy our range of off-piste to this, you will see and learn skiing courses! much of the local culture and itineraries with others, you will find language as well as enjoying most are longer. This is to make We run the following the dynamics of being a you better acclimatised, which course programmes: will increase your enjoyment of member of a closely bonded > Scottish Winter Courses team, that will see many each day and your chances of friendships formed for life. completing the trek successfully. > Alpine Courses This also means that you will be > Alpine Ice Climbing Local guides support our able to take more pleasure from trips. They are phenomenally the life and culture of the > Off-piste Skiing and strong and have detailed local mountains as you travel. Ski-mountaineering knowledge. Traditionally, they > Rock Climbing in Snowdonia Our trek leaders pride themselves are not sent to instruct or to > Via Ferrata Courses oversee the intimate safety of on a thorough knowledge of the team members (although they mountains, the people who live contribute to it), as would be there, the flora, the fauna and Financial Protection the case when climbing in the the diverse cultures of the region As a member of the Association Alps with a European guide, in which you will be travelling. of Bonded Travel Organisers Trust for example. Instead, our expert, They have been chosen for Limited (ABTOT) an Association professional team leaders set their ability to handle matters approved by the Department a framework of safety under with sensitivity and regard for of Trade and Industry, Jagged Globe has provided a Bond to which everyone can operate. the well-being of trek members, meet the requirements of the Each team member should as well as giving every consideration to the sensibilities Package Travel, Package be technically competent, in Holidays and Package Tour keeping with the grade and of the local people you will meet whilst trekking. Regulations 1992 in respect the pre-trip requirements. of non-flight inclusive packages This enables team members Combining the knowledge only. For more information, visit to take some responsibility of our leaders with the unique www.abtot.com. This gives UK for their own safety within the expertise and planning we bring residents full protection in the confines of their own knowledge to the organisation of your trek, unlikely event of our insolvency. and experience, whilst under the Jagged Globe assures you of The air holidays and flights in direction of the leader. A Jagged the best and most successful this brochure are ATOL protected Globe expedition is not ‘guided’ treks available. by the Civil Aviation Authority. but rather ‘professionally-led’ Our ATOL number is 4019. with ample support and the See page 58 for full details. best local guides that can be provided.

6/7 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:12 Page 8

First ascent of Sahib Chasa (6,078m). Photo: John Eames Mark Horrell – Nubra II Diary Extracts Snui Valley. Photo: John Eames Saturday 8 September 2007 Mark Horrell was a member of the second team, arriving in India We awake this morning to from China, where he had just climbed Muztag Ata. These are a winter wonderland: several some extracts from his expedition diary: inches of snow cover our high camp and the mountains look fabulous. John, Ulla and I break Saturday 1 September 2007 off on our own to go and climb We have a rest day today Sahib Chasa (6,078m). Another acclimatising in Hundur Dok. Jagged Globe group had We’ve walked for a day and climbed Sahib Chasa three a half and have reached an weeks ago. altitude of 4,000m so need to take The first two hours of the it easy as some of the group still walk down to the first lake are have headaches. The one I had undescribably beautiful due to in Leh, caused by smacking my the fresh snow. Below the lakeside head on a low doorway exploring campsite the snow disappears, a monastery, has now cleared. but I have another stroke of luck We’re camped in a great spot. after we stop for packed lunch, Jagged brown hills rise steeply when Ulla agrees to swap my on either side of a narrow valley. chick peas for her chocolate Hundur Dok itself is an oasis of cake. Imagine that – chick green meadows, while smaller peas for chocolate cake! snow-capped mountains are These Danes are crazy. visible both up and down We reach our campsite the valley. Sunday 2 September 2007 pikas. These small, rock-dwelling beside the confluence at mammals resemble large mice Tingsa at 3 o’clock, and find We have a short acclimatisation We have a gentle walk away but skitter across rocks more like ourselves back in civilisation walk, a mile or so up the valley from the main trail and up into rabbits, thus earning them the again as a huge herd of sheep to the junction of the Thanglasko the more remote Sniu Valley. colloquial name of ‘mouse hares’. and goats accompanied by and Sniu rivers. Here the valley There are no more villages above a friendly sheepdog passes by. opens out into a wide, flat grassy here, and the scenery is getting After stopping for lunch in a boulder- Here we have another surprise area strewn with boulders. An gradually more dramatic, with the strewn hollow we continue onward when we discover the Ladakhi impressively glaciated mountain high rocky cliff faces becoming to reach a picturesque campsite on language to be rather similar rises up ahead, like most of the topped by even more precipitous a broad meadow at the junction of to Danish. After John struggles peaks around here, unnamed snow-capped summits. three valleys, with two more hanging and unclimbed. John tells us valleys high above. “If Carlsberg did to converse in English with an it’s an outlier of the Sahib Meanwhile, down in the valley the campsites,” says Steve, “this would inquisitive shepherdess, Ulla then Chasa massif. I pause and try trail is easy, climbing gradually on be it.” While lamenting the lack of has a ten minute chinwag with to contemplate a route up it. This grassy meadows beside the river. beer, I find it hard to disagree with her, each of them speaking in is scenery to make you stop and The ground is covered in marmot him. I’ve stayed at many beautiful their own native language. ponder the big questions, such holes, but we see no marmots, campsites over the years, but this as how lucky you are to be here. although there are plenty of has to be up there with them.

Thursday 6 September 2007 this is soon crossed and we Tuesday 11 September 2007 mountain and order it to descend. reach a bowl of snow just below It responds by sniffing my finger. We get away not long after 5, the summit ridge, large enough for We wake at 4am to the sound walking for the first half hour in the all of us to sit down and rest before we least wanted to hear: snow The next time we stop and rest I dark. We cross a river valley floor we put on our crampons and pattering on the tent. We finally wait for the dog to appear over first the rise, throw a few rocks in its then up a boulder field for 150 make the final ascent up a short set off at 6am, crossing the stream vertical metres to reach the start steep section of snow to the ridge. at the back of the campsite and direction and then start charging of the glacier, where we deposit The slope steepens to a vertical realise that we’re being followed. at it waving my ice axe. John walking boots, don plastic boots lip onto the ridge where a rope I noticed the dog, its fur covered shouts at me to come back and ascents and strap on harnesses. The next is used for safety, but the ascent is in snow, outside the cook’s tent stop wasting my energy. But it 200m of ascent is on a dry glacier. straightforward. As we look around earlier. I think it had spent all night works. The dog and I stare at each There is a light dusting of snow, us at a view no one else has ever there, and naively assumed it other for a moment before it wises in the but it’s not enough to hide any seen before, we can see there is would know where to draw a line. up, turns around and slinks back crevasses. At 5,400m, as we another summit about 100m away, But no, it’s decided that’s not the down the mountain. approach a rock wall which end of its adventures. and it’s not obvious which one is In the end the weather puts an Two Jagged Globe teams visited guards the summit ridge. higher. John spends the next five end to our climb. We’re at 5,500m John, Ulla and I, who are walking We ascend gently across the minutes running between the two and the next 400m of ascent is the Nubra Region of Northern India a little ahead of the others, stop boulders before reaching a with his GPS before proclaiming the across boulder fields. It’s still and wait for them to catch up. flattish bowl. After several futile this summer with their sights set on first one higher after all, at 5,710m. conversations with the dog, during snowing heavily, and although We move on up one of the rocky I decide not to mention the large which I explain that it will get itself he’s not going to let on, John must unclimbed peaks, including the gullies ahead of us. We have about rock sticking up just beyond the killed if it follows us onto the be worn out after breaking trail 100m of rocky scree to ascend, but second summit, which looks like it glacier, I point back down the through thick snow all the way up. nubra 6,000m peak, Sahib Chasa. might be higher than both of them. Jagged Globe leader, John Eames, had reconnoitred two valleys north west of Leh in 2005 with the aim High on Sahib Chasa. Photo: John Eames On the Lasirmola, with Sahib Chasa in the background. Photo: John Eames of leading a team in 2007. In the end we ran two separate expeditions, with John and his partner Bonny Masson, leading a group each. The first team climbed high on a peak in the Snui Valley but a hidden ice cliff thwarted their summit attempt. They went on to make what we now valley believe is the first ascent of Sahib Chasa (6,078m). The second team climbed two new peaks, which they named Yangchan Kangri (5,710m) and Mani Kangri (5,792m), with some members having a crack at Nubra Summits 2008 – we are returning Sahib Chasa. John and Bonny’s detailed reports are available on our website www.jagged-globe.co.uk in 2008, see page 33 for details. 8/9 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:13 Page 10

Expedition Training – Courses If you lack the relevant skills to join the trip of your dreams, then one of our courses might be the ideal solution. Please visit www.jagged-globe.co.uk for more trip select or details of our courses.

Training in the Alps. Photo: Thierry Levenq We have grouped the expeditions and treks into three Aconcagua. Photo: Joe Gittins Cathedral Peak. Photo: Peter Sheehan Shishapangma. Photo: David Hamilton bands – Introductory, Intermediate and Advanced. For expeditions, we use a two-tiered grading system, which describes the technical difficulty (1-5) and fitness (A-E) required for each expedition. For example, Kilimanjaro is graded 1A but Aconcagua, which is a considerably more arduous undertaking, is graded 1C. Trekking trips are grades T1, T2 or T3. A well-chosen trip maximises your enjoyment of the experience, as well as your chances of summit success or completing the itinerary. Please read the trip experience requirements carefully. A detailed explanation of Scottish Winter Grades and Alpine Mountaineering Grades is available on our website and could be of help. Finally, please contact our experienced staff who will be happy to discuss your experience, aspirations and the trips that would be suitable for you. Introductory Intermediate Advanced Expedition Grading – Expedition Grading – Trek Level Level Level

Technical Difficulty Fitness Grading Grade Trek/Expedition Page Grade Expedition Page Grade Expedition Page 1 Low angle snow or straightforward A Good basic fitness, as for Munro-bagging. T1 No previous trekking experience is scrambling on rocks. Ropes are not Average rucksack weight: 6-8Kg. necessary, but you need to be an active The Seven Summits The Seven Summits The Seven Summits usually required. Previous climbing hillwalker. You should consider training B Good cardio-vascular fitness, which for 1A Kilimanjaro – Umbwe Route 15 1C Aconcagua 16 3D Denali Traverse 17 experience is not essential. prior to your trek, as typically you will be most people requires some training, by walking between 4-6 hours over several T1 Kilimanjaro – Lemosho 3C Denali West Buttress 17 4D Denali West Rib 17 2 Ropes are used principally for glacier running, hiking and perhaps some gym consecutive days and usually at high Glades Trek 15 travel and low angle snow or ice slopes. work. Average rucksack weight: 8-12Kg. 4A Carstensz Pyramid 18 2D The South Pole – altitude. Be prepared for rough and rocky Climbing experience is preferred, but not 2A Elbrus 19 The Last Degree 19 C High level of fitness coupled with trails and the occasional snow patch. 2C Vinson 19 usually essential. physical toughness and the ability to 4E Everest South Col 20 T2 Previous trekking experience is necessary. 3 Short, steep sections of snow or ice carry a heavy rucksack for long periods. There will be lots of consecutive days of up to about 50°. Previous snow and Average rucksack weight: 12-18Kg. The Mountains of Asia The Mountains of Asia The Mountains of Asia tough trekking, and/or longer days for ice climbing experience is essential. T1 Everest Base Camp Trek 24 2B NEW! Everest Base Camp 5D Ama Dablam 29 D As for ‘C’, but tougher. Climbs of this crossing high passes, for example. & Island Peak 25 4 Long, steep snow and ice slopes with grade are exceptionally strenuous and Overall, trails may be vague in places, T1 Everest Team Trek 24 short steps of very steep ice or low grade some weight loss is inevitable. Train hard with some sections of very rough and 3B Mera & Island Peak 26 rocky ground. T2 NEW! High Passes to Everest 25 rock climbing. Good all-round climbing and take along some spare calories! 3B Khumbu Climber 27 ability required. 2A Mera Peak 27 E Hard physical effort at extreme altitude, T3 Tough multi-day trekking at high altitude, 2C Lhakpa Ri & The North Col 31 5 Very steep ice (Scottish III/IV or harder) which requires thorough preparation often over glaciated terrain. Crossings T1 Annapurna Circuit Trek 30 of glaciated passes which require the 2B Altai Climber 32 or rock (Hard Severe or harder). Suitable based on your experience of previous T1 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 30 for competent mountaineers who have trips. Comments for ‘D’ also apply. use of crampons. You may consider 2B Nubra Summits 33 climbed consistently at these standards. May cause long-term fatigue after joining one of our Introductory Long 1A Stok Kangri 33 2D Spantik 36 the trip. Please note that the rucksack Weekend Scottish Winter Courses, or T3 K2 Base Camp & weights given above may be exceeded our Alpine Introduction as preparation. Ghondokoro La 34 2D Muztag Ata 36 on some expeditions. T2 Rush Peak & The Hunza Valley 35 3B Cathedral Peak 37 The Americas The Americas The Americas Health and Fitness Pre-trip Training Weekends 2A Ecuador Volcanoes 43 3B Huascaran 40 4B Alpamayo 39 2A Mexican Volcanoes 43 3B Bolivian Climber 41 To get the most out of your expedition Our pre-trip training weekends are acclimatisation and includes a or trek, you will need to be fit and healthy. designed as part of the preparation discounted shopping trip to Cotswold 3B Antisana 42 You do not need to be an athlete, but a process. All team members are invited Outdoor. A number of trips meet over good level of overall fitness is important. to the weekend, which takes place one weekend, but activities are tailored The Rest of the World The Rest of the World The Rest of the World As a minimum, you should be able to several weeks before the expedition or to your specific trek or expedition and – 2B Rwenzori Mountains 45 – walk 8km/5 miles with a height gain of trek departure. The meetings are usually may include some technical instruction. 1 600m/2,000ft with a 10Kg rucksack in 2 ⁄2 held in Betws-y-Coed, in Snowdonia. On the Saturday evening there is a The Cold Regions The Cold Regions The Cold Regions hours or less. This assumes a reasonable They are run by members of the Jagged slide-show and a group dinner. trail is followed at low altitude, such as in Globe office team and instructional staff 1A Antarctic Climber 48 3B Greenland Explorer 48 2D Greenland Icecap Crossing 47 The dates of the meetings are included the UK or below 3,000m. An example would and are an opportunity to meet fellow in your booking confirmation letter. be an ascent of Snowdon by the Pyg Track team members. The 8,000 Metre Peaks The 8,000 Metre Peaks The 8,000 Metre Peaks Full details regarding the weekend from Pen-y-Pass (730m/2,400ft of ascent over The meetings include a thorough briefing are included in the Trip Dossier. – – 4E Cho Oyu 52 5km/3 miles) with a 10Kg rucksack in 2 hours on all aspects of the trip and provide an – – 4E Gasherbrum II 53 15 minutes. For any expedition or trek, you We look forward to meeting you ideal opportunity to clear up any final should be able to better this, and be able at the weekend! – – 4E Shishapangma 53 questions you may have. The weekend to repeat it over several consecutive days. covers personal equipment, fitness, 4E Everest South Col 20

10/11 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:13 Page 12

The Seven Summits Sherpas on the summit of Everest. Photo: Iain Peter The quest to climb the highest mountain on each continent has captured the imagination of climbers throughout the world. The Seven Summits offer a fantastic challenge, with each mountain giving a unique experience. Together they provide an excuse to travel and climb in every corner of the globe. Anyone can share the Seven Summit experience. The Seven Summits Challenge Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua involve no technical difficulty and can be climbed as long as you have Over 20 ‘Seven Summiteers’ have climbed fitness and determination. Then, once you have at least one of the mountains with Jagged increased your experience, you can consider some Globe. Rhys Jones became the youngest of the other summits, each one making you better person in the world to complete the Seven prepared to tackle the next. Summits, when he summited Everest on his 20th birthday. We asked Rhys what it takes Continent Mountain Altitude to become a successful Seven Summiteer. Asia Everest 8,850m/29,035ft 1. When did you first decide to attempt S. America Aconcagua 6,959m/22,830ft the Seven Summits? N. America Denali 6,194m/20,320ft “I didn’t know about the seven until I’d (Mt McKinley) done Denali, when I was 16, then I thought, Africa Kilimanjaro 5,895m/19,340ft “One day I want to climb Everest. I’ve done Europe Elbrus 5,642m/18,510ft Denali, why not try and climb the other 5 summits in between”. It’s an unusual first Antarctica Vinson Massif 4,897m/16,067ft expedition, a baptism by fire really, but Australasia Carstensz Pyramid* 4,884m/16,023ft up until that I’d done 3 winters climbing in Scotland, and a trip to the Alps, plus *Another interpretation of the Seven Summits includes Kosciuzsko, lots of general hill walking.” the highest point of the Australian mainland, rather than Carstensz, which is in West Papua (formerly Irian Jaya). 2. Briefly outline your build up to Everest, including any other training or mountains that you climbed along the way as preparation. “I always thought as all the other mountains as preparation, so the Seven Summits made Rhys Jones. Photo: Kenton Cool a nice build up: Every February Scottish Winter climbing. 5. What did you enjoy the most about the July 2002 Three weeks in the Swiss Alps. experience of climbing the Seven Summits? the June 2003 Denali. “It was fantastic travelling around the world – December 2003 Aconcagua – turned it’s a great excuse to go all over the place. around at 6,700m due to tiredness and cold. The actual climbing experiences and January 2004 Kilimanjaro. summits were a big draw each time, but the July 2004 Three weeks in the Swiss Alps. best bit was climbing with so many different November 2004 Kosciusko. people, form different walks of life, and being bonded so closely by a really intense January 2005 Aconcagua. experience – those relationships are great.” sevensummits July 2005 Mt Elbrus. October 2005 Cho Oyu – retreated at 6. What have you been up to since 7,300m due to high winds and losing high completing your Seven Summits? camp in a storm. “Just after I got back from Everest, I did December 2005 Mt Vinson. a none-stop 2,000 mile ocean yacht race May 2006 Mt Everest – summited 17th May.” (I’d never sailed before), as I fancied a new challenge. In August 2007 I sailed to 3. Describe your toughest day East Greenland. We had an amazing trip in the mountains? and took in a number of unclimbed peaks “My toughest day was summit day on Denali. and new routes. It was great adventure. NORTH AMERICA I had some altitude sickness and was totally In the future I’d like to go back to Everest Denali 6,194m exhausted and dehydrated. It was -40° and Base Camp to show friends the route, windy, and took us 17 hours. Since then and I’d love to climb Ama Dablam.” my stamina and mental strength have 7. What advice would you give to someone improved massively.” EUROPE who is considering trying to climb all Seven? Elbrus 5,642m 4. You lost very little weight on Everest. “Once you’re inspired and determined Would you say you are physiologically you obviously need to be pretty fit, and suited to high altitude mountaineering? be prepared to give up your weekends ASIA “Yes I think I am suited to high altitude to get into the hills. You need really good Everest 8,850m mountaineering. As each expedition went ‘tent admin’ to make life on the mountains by, although I never got stronger at altitude, comfortable. That’s more useful then I seemed to get less weak every time. But technical ability or fitness, because if your I’ve never found living at say, 7,000 metres gear is dry and ice free, you’ll climb a lot AFRICA AUSTRALASIA Kilimanjaro 5,895m easy. I don’t think people are supposed to better. Finally, you need to find the cash. Carstensz Pyramid Either you have it, or more likely you’ll be 4,884m be that high, and you’re body reminds you of that constantly. As far as the weight loss trying to persuade someone to pay for ANTARCTICA goes, I think a large part of that was the fact your trip. That’s another skill entirely! Vinson Massif 4,897m that we had an unimaginably comfortable Most of all, don’t give up. If it was Base Camp on Everest, and so much good easy, everyone would do it.” SOUTH AMERICA Aconcagua 6,959m food we could have eaten from dawn until dusk on every rest day. That made a huge difference to our performance on the mountain, and it was just nice to have somewhere with relative luxuries.” 12/13 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:15 Page 14

The Seven Kilimanjaro – Summits: Umbwe Route Kilimanjaro Acclimatisation on Mt Meru (4,556m), prior to an ascent of Kilimanjaro via a combination of the UMBWE ROUTE Umbwe and Barafu Routes. DATES: Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania, is the least difficult of the Continental 5,895m (19,340ft) / 13 Days / Grade 1A Sat 22 Dec – Thu 3 Jan 2008 Mon 28 Jan – Sat 9 Feb 2008 kilimanjarSummits and is a superb challenge for fit trekkers and walkers. o We fly the most direct way to mountain’s glistening southern Mon 4 Feb – Sat 16 Feb 2008 However, the mountain is frequently underestimated and each year, Kilimanjaro International Airport glaciers plummet from the Mon 21 Jul – Sat 2 Aug 2008* many people attempt a five-day dash up the Marangu Route and via Amsterdam, before summit snowfields, forming Mon 11 Aug – Sat 23 Aug 2008* Mon 8 Sep – Sat 20 Sep 2008 fail to reach the top, due to altitude sickness. Jagged Globe has transferring to our comfortable an impressive backdrop as Mon 22 Sep – Sat 4 Oct 2008 a long history of running expeditions to Kilimanjaro, since 1994. hotel in Moshi. The following we walk up through rainforest, Mon 15 Dec – Sat 27 Dec 2008* Including private expeditions, we have now organised day, we enter Arusha National tropical meadows and along Fri 26 Dec – Wed 7 Jan 2009 over 100 expeditions to the mountain. Our itineraries Park and begin our ascent of the crest of a ridge to reach are carefully designed with the aim of getting Mount Meru. At 4,556m, not Baranco Camp. Before a large PRICES: every team member to the summit – only does Mt Meru serve as rockfall on the Western Breach AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ something that we achieve on an important acclimatisation closed this route, our teams Moshi $4,134 $4,801 £1,905 the vast majority of our trips. climb, it also gives us the used to move from here to chance to see plenty of wildlife, Arrow Camp and then climb OPTIONAL SINGLE which is usually scarce on the Western Breach to the crater HOTEL ROOM: Kilimanjaro itself. It is common rim and summit. Now, we climb £85 to see giraffe, buffalo, zebra, the Baranco Wall and traverse Free regional departures warthogs, antelope, baboon eastwards via the remote from most UK airports. and even python! Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp. The route to the top Having finished Mt Meru, follows scree to Stella Point on LEMOSHO GLADES and spent an afternoon and the crater rim, before the final DATES: evening at our hotel, we enter push to Uhuru Peak – the true Mon 4 Feb – Wed 13 Feb 2008 Kilimanjaro National Park at summit and ‘Roof of Africa’. Mon 18 Feb – Wed 27 Feb 2008 the village of Umbwe. The Mon 11 Aug – Wed 20 Aug 2008* Mon 8 Sep – Wed 17 Sep 2008 Mon 22 Sep – Wed 1 Oct 2008 Fri 26 Dec – Sun 4 Jan 2009 Route Choice Kilimanjaro – PRICES: Historically, Jagged Globe’s AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Kilimanjaro expedition culminated Lemosho Glades Trek Moshi with an ascent of the Western $3,418 $3,696 £1,575 A superb rising traverse on the most attractive side of Breach – a huge gash in the OPTIONAL SINGLE southern side of the mountain, Kilimanjaro, designed with maximum acclimatisation HOTEL ROOM: which involves scrambling on and summit success in mind. £85 rock, to reach the crater rim. In 5,895m (19,340ft) / 10 Days / Grade T1 January 2006, a serious rock fall Free regional departures from most UK airports. on the Western Breach sadly killed This trek is suitable for fit southwestern flank of three mountaineers, as well as walkers, without previous Kilimanjaro, climbing as high an unknown number of Tanzanian trekking or mountaineering as 4,500m, before contouring NOTE: porters (Jagged Globe has never experience. The itinerary is below the spectacular Western UK law requires the full price to include taken porters on the Western all airline taxes, as these are not optional designed to provide gradual Breach, and descending to if a flight is included. You pay either the full Breach, as we have always felt this acclimatisation, with a total Baranco Camp at 3,900m. price (from the UK) or the land-only price. irresponsible and unnecessary). The price less tax is shown for comparison. of eight days spent on the From here, the southern The National Park has kept this mountain. The views of the icefields come into view as route closed and subsequent Jagged Globe teams have western and southern aspects we climb the Baranco Wall, traversed around to the Barafu of Kilimanjaro are superior to a steep 300m climb which Route, the best alternative. Until those on the northern side, wends its way up a trail, the Western Breach is re-opened, and the route is less travelled without being exposed, our Kilimanjaro – Umbwe Route than either the Marangu or nor precipitous. The route expeditions will climb Mt Meru, Rongai Routes. continues eastwards to acclimatise for Kilimanjaro, underneath the Decken and Having flown to Kilimanjaro and then make the ascent of Rebman Glaciers to Karanga International Airport via Karanga Camp, Kilimanjaro. Photo: Ulf Amundsen Africa’s highest mountain from Camp, then Barafu Camp, Amsterdam, we begin the trek Umbwe and then via the Barafu our springboard for the from the Londorossi Park Gate, Giraffes in Arusha National Park. Approaching Stella Point on Kilimanjaro after recent snowfall. Mount Meru. Photo: Simon Lowe Route to the summit. This itinerary summit. The dawn ascent of Photo: Steve Davies Photo: Steve Davies located on the western side of is suitable for those who have Uhuru Peak – the highest point Kilimanjaro. From the trailhead completed several grade 1 and in Africa – will be the toughest at Lemosho Glades, the route preferably 2 scrambles, as Mt day that most people have leads through the rich flora Meru involves some scrambling. ever experienced. On our final and fauna of the rainforest Our new Lemosho Glades Trek is day of trekking, we descend the best route for walkers without and up into the moorland to Mweka Gate, before hot scrambling or mountaineering zone of the Shira Plateau. showers and a flight home experience, or for those with Then, we traverse the that evening. limited time, who still want a realistic acclimatisation schedule.

14/15 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:16 Page 16

Denali West Buttress The Seven North America’s highest mountain, an Alaskan climbing adventure 6,194m (20,320ft) / 25 Days / Grade 3C Summits aconcagua The highest mountain in North America rises of the climb is just below the top camp, dramatically above Alaska’s tundra, close to the which is fixed with 300m/1,000ft of rope. ACONCAGUA Arctic Circle. Despite the relatively low technical In keeping with Denali National Park DATES: demands of its standard West Buttress Route, Thu 17 Jan – Sun 10 Feb 2008 regulations, our expeditions are operated Denali is a big, serious mountain and should Thu 24 Jan – Sun 17 Feb 2008 through an authorised Alaskan guiding operator. not be underestimated. Of the Seven Summits, Sun 7 Dec – Wed 31 Dec 2008 These guides are the most experienced on the it is second only to Everest in terms of overall Sun 14 Dec – Wed 7 Jan 2009* mountain and in 2008, the lead guides on each difficulty. Success depends as much on your Thu 8 Jan – Sun 1 Feb 2009 expedition will have a minimum of five Denali Thu 15 Jan – Sun 8 Feb 2009 ability to carry a heavy load and put up with expeditions under their belts, though ten and Thu 22 Jan – Sun 15 Feb 2009 harsh conditions as it does on climbing ability. upwards is more typical. A maximum of nine PRICES: From the outpost town of Talkeetna, a places are available to those with previous AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ spectacular one-hour flight takes us to expedition experience, who have climbed routes Mendoza Denali Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at of Scottish Grade II or equivalent, can perform $5,251 $6,098 £2,420 2,100m/7,000ft. The surrounding mountains are self rescue from a crevasse and can carry a 25Kg OPTIONAL SINGLE of Himalayan stature, as are the glaciers that we pack and pull a 25Kg sledge at the same time. HOTEL ROOM: follow to Camp 1. Three other camps are placed, Prices from the UK include international £155 the highest at 5,250m/17,200ft, from where we flights and two nights’ bed and breakfast make the summit attempt. The steepest section accommodation in Anchorage. DENALI WEST BUTTRESS DATES: On the Kahiltna Glacier, Denali West Buttress expedition. Denali Traverse Sat 3 May – Tue 27 May 2008 Photo: Douglas Waymark Sat 10 May – Tue 3 Jun 2008 31 Days / Grade 3D Sat 17 May – Tue 10 Jun 2008 Sat 24 May – Tue 17 Jun 2008 This takes the West Buttress Route to the summit Sat 7 Jun – Tue 1 Jul 2008 then crosses Denali Pass, down the Muldrow Sat 14 Jun – Tue 8 Jul 2008 Aconcagua Glacier Route to bushwhack out to Wonder Sat 21 Jun – Tue 15 Jul 2008 Lake. In 2007, we completed the first guided Sat 28 Jun – Tue 22 Jul 2008 The world’s highest trekking peak and trip for four years and only the 3rd in 10 years. PRICES: the second highest of the Seven Summits. The summit was the easy part, with a 14 hour day AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ 6,959m (22,830ft) / 25 Days / Grade 1C Descending to Camp 3 on Aconcagua, after a successful summit in December 2006. Photo: Neil O’Gorman descending to the Muldrow Glacier, followed by Anchorage a harrowing 20 hour journey weaving around a $6,993 $8,051 £3,195 Of the Seven Summits, Aconcagua is the acclimatised. This improved itinerary has worked maze of crevasses to finally get off the glacier. second highest and one of the most technically well, with more of our team members reaching Plenty of stamina required! DENALI TRAVERSE straightforward to climb. It is generally regarded the summit in the 2005-06 and 2006-07 seasons, to be the highest trekking peak in the world and than previously. “For me, in hindsight, this was the highlight of the DATES: can be climbed by fit hikers without roped trip but at the time I honestly didn’t see how we Sat 31 May – Mon 30 Jun 2008 Summit day typically takes 10 hours from Berlin Huts climbing experience. Denali’s summit ridge. Photo: Douglas Waymark would ever get off the Muldrow.” PRICES: (5,800m), with the Canaleta, a large gully leading to Ben Thackwray AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ However, even the normal Horcones route is a very the summit ridge, being the most strenuous part of Read Ben’s expedition blog on Anchorage arduous ascent due to the scale of the mountain, the climb. The views from the top are breathtaking $7,454 $8,656 £3,435 its considerable altitude and the unpredictable and make all the hard work worthwhile. Aconcagua www.benthackwray.com weather. For the past two seasons, our teams is a considerable step up from a mountain such have followed an itinerary that provides additional as Kilimanjaro, so if you are serious about joining DENALI WEST RIB acclimatisation days and climbs Bonete Peak an expedition, we recommend that you train DATES: (5,004m), whilst maintaining three days for the specifically for the climb (see below). Denali West Rib Thu 15 May – Sun 8 Jun 2008 summit bid. Aconcagua is an enormously high 25 Days / Grade 4D Our expedition leaders are supported by PRICES: mountain and the longer you spend acclimatising, English-speaking Argentinian mountain guides. A superb direct route to the top of North America AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ the better your chances of reaching the summit. Anchorage High-altitude porters are employed to carry group with difficulties on snow and ice up to 55° steep. If you do need to sit out bad weather in the top $8,398 $9,752 £3,870 equipment, with team members carrying their own camp on Aconcagua, it is easier to do so having The descent is down the West Buttress Route. personal gear on load carries between camps. arrived feeling strong from being better This will be a small team of three or four climbers with two guides. NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full Camp on Aconcagua. Photo: Neil O’Gorman price (from the UK) or the land-only price. Training for Aconcagua The price less tax is shown for comparison. Aconcagua is a tough on summit day requires a On this type of outing, you get a exercise as you can fit into proposition. The world’s highest great deal of determination. sense of the kind of fatigue you your daily schedule. Whether trekking peak frequently grinds can expect on Aconcagua, but swimming, running or cycling, To prepare, we recommend that down those who have not without the altitude of course! by topping up your endurance, you get out in the British hills on prepared themselves sufficiently. It’s also a useful exercise as it you also give yourself an some long walks, which take in You should expect cold winds helps you get organised with important psychological edge. a number of summits, carrying on the mountain and a lot of the equipment you need to If you do happen to suffer at first a reasonably heavy pack (15Kg). time spent in tents. It is important carry and gives you a taste from the high altitude, heat and It’s difficult to simulate a summit to train seriously for the physical of wild camping. In the weeks dust, you can give yourself the day on any big mountain, but demands of the trip, but also to leading up to the expedition, time to ease into the trip with consider doing a few two-day prepare yourself mentally for a we strongly recommend that the knowledge that your fitness walks, with overnight camps. degree of discomfort. Success you do as much aerobic is up to the job.

16/17 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:17 Page 18

On the summit ridge of Carstensz Pyramid. Photo: Neal Short Vinson The Seven The highest mountain of our planet’s last great wilderness, Antarctica. 4,897m (16,067ft) / 19-21 Days / Grade 2C Summits

Vinson rises from the most hostile, yet pristine Base Camp. From here, two camps are used, continent on Earth. Its extreme inaccessibility the high camp being located above the 40° CARSTENSZ is demonstrated by the fact that it was only headwall on a broad col between Vinson PYRAMID discovered as recently as 1957 and it was the and Mt Shinn. The route to the summit up DATES: last of the continental summits to be climbed. a steep ridge is a fitting climax to an amazing Fri 16 May – Sun 1 Jun 2008 wilderness experience. When the weather Vinson is a very long snow climb, and whilst is good, the views are stunning. However, as PRICES: the climbing is technically moderate, the one of our recent teams learnt, conditions can AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ isolation of the mountain and potentially Manado change very quickly and the temperatures can extreme conditions demand that you need $19,877 $23,083 £9,160 plummet to -30°C. If the ascent is completed considerable mountaineering experience to quickly, we can also climb nearby Mt Shinn. take part. To join our teams, we require that VINSON you have previous expedition experience on a Note: The duration of the trip varies between cold mountain such as Denali, and are able to 19 and 21 days from the UK, depending on the DATES: Sun 6 Jan – Sat 26 Jan 2008 perform self-rescue from a crevasse, as well as timings of the flight from Punta Arenas to Patriot Fri 14 Nov – Wed 3 Dec 2008 have the physical robustness to carry a 25Kg Hills. These flights are often delayed, in both Thu 27 Nov – Tue 16 Dec 2008 pack and pull a 25Kg sled at the same time. directions, by weather conditions, which are Wed 10 Dec – Mon 29 Dec 2008 critical for a safe landing on the ice runway. Our teams assemble in Punta Arenas in Chile Mon 22 Dec – Sat 10 Jan 2009 Each trip is guaranteed to go ahead on the Sun 4 Jan – Fri 23 Jan 2009 and then fly to Patriot Hills at 80° South on the dates given, weather permitting. Antarctic continent. A smaller aircraft flies us to PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Punta Arenas – – US$31,450*

Elbrus The South Pole – *Price to be confirmed on booking. Europe’s highest mountain. 5,642m (18,510ft) / Grade 2A The Last Degree THE SOUTH POLE – THE LAST DEGREE Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe, located 100Km / 20 Days / Grade 2D in the beautiful Caucasus Mountains. Jagged Why not extend your stay in Antarctica and DATES: Thu 27 Nov – Tue 16 Dec 2008 Globe climbed Elbrus every summer between ski from the 89th degree to the South Pole? 1992 and 1999. Unfortunately, due to the threat This 100 kilometre journey has been described PRICES: from Chechen extremists, the UK Foreign and by past adventurers as “tougher than climbing AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Commonwealth Office have advised against an 8,000m peak”. Punta Arenas travel to the Elbrus region for the past eight – – US$41,950* years. Jagged Globe has suspended its

expeditions and will continue to do so until NOTE: the advice changes. Any expeditions to the UK law requires the full price to include mountain will be announced on our website all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full www.jagged-globe.co.uk where you can price (from the UK) or the land-only price. register for monthly news updates. The price less tax is shown for comparison.

Summit of Mount Vinson. Photo: Adele Pennington Carstensz Pyramid Australasia’s highest mountain – the most mysterious of the continental summits. 4,884m (16,023ft) / 17 Days / Grade 4A

Rising from the dense tropical reached Carstensz by this ‘severe’ (USA 5.4). On the jungle of West Papua (formerly method, but permission ceased ridge, three ‘notches’ must Irian Jaya) in Indonesia, in 2001 and the mountain was be negotiated, the first of Carstensz Pyramid is the most completely out of bounds which necessitates abseiling/ elusive of the Seven Summits. between 2002 and 2005, due rappelling into the notch and Its remoteness, combined with to local unrest in West Papua. jumaring a fixed rope out the government restrictions and In 2006, we used helicopters to other side. Team members political instability in the region, reach the mountain, opting to therefore need to have has meant that few people fly over the politically sensitive appropriate ropework skills have climbed it since the areas. For our 2008 expedition, and rock climbing experience. first ascent in 1961. we hope that the approach If you are considering through the Freeport Mine Vinson. Photo: Adele Pennington Skiing to the South Pole. Photo: ALE Jagged Globe ran its first joining our Carstensz Pyramid will continue to be available, expedition to Carstensz Pyramid expedition, we recommend though from our experience in 1994. In 2007, our team that you express your interest with organising expeditions to became the first since 2000 to as early as possible, as places Carstensz, nothing is ever certain. legally approach Carstensz are limited and the permit through the Freeport Mine, the The climb itself follows a direct application process lengthy. biggest copper and gold mine route up slabs and corners on Mac Mackay will lead our in the world. From this team, the north face of Carstensz May 2008 expedition. Inger Aase and Randi Skaug Pyramid to reach the summit became the first Nordic women ridge. This lower section of the to summit Carstensz Pyramid. climb involves scrambling and Our expeditions in the ‘90s had rock climbing up to grade

18/19 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:17 Page 20

Everest South Col The Seven Climb the world’s highest mountain via the South Col route from Nepal. Summits 8,850m (29,035ft) / 72 Days / Grade 4E To climb the world’s highest mountain is a Our Everest record is unsurpassed by any EVEREST dream of most mountaineers. Despite the other British company and we believe we SOUTH COL growing number of summiteers, it remains are amongst the top companies worldwide DATES: an extremely tough proposition where your organising Everest expeditions. Sat 22 Mar – Sun 1 Jun 2008 chances are greatly increased by joining Our Spring 2008 expedition will follow the line PRICES: everest a well-organised and resourced expedition. of the first ascent in 1953, the South Col Route AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Our ethos is to maximise the teams’ summit from Nepal, which is simply the best and most Kathmandu success by providing experienced leadership, reliable means of reaching the top. Please $53,057 $61,614 £24,450 a high level of Sherpa support, plentiful supplies contact us for a copy of our Everest Prospectus. of oxygen and a comfortable Base Camp. OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: Included in price.

Our Everest NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional Pedigree if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. First expedition: September 1993 The price less tax is shown for comparison. Expeditions completed: 12 Successful expeditions: 11 Number of summiteers: 81*

*Figure includes Jagged Globe team members, leaders and Sherpas.

Leadership Sherpas Oxygen We provide a ratio of one We supply an extremely Sherpa per team member. generous quantity of oxygen per Our Sherpas are veterans team member, the cost of which of many previous Everest is included in the expedition expeditions, with some of price. We use Russian Poisk them having summited as Oxygen Cylinders, combined many as twelve times. They are with TopOut masks. This is the frequently described as being most reliable and effective David Hamilton will lead the strongest on the mountain: oxygen system available. our 2008 Everest expedition. The TopOut mask is smaller than David is the most experienced “We had the best Sherpa team the standard Poisk mask and is high-altitude leader in the on the mountain. Other teams more efficient at putting oxygen UK, having led seventeen followed our Sherpas. They molecules into your lungs, as expeditions over 7,500m, were simply superb athletes well as having the advantage including nine expeditions to and a pleasure to work with.” of providing better visibility. 8,000m peaks, of which three BW, 2006 have been to Everest. He has Experience Required summited twice, via the South Base Camp Col route from Nepal (2003) To join our Everest team A huge asset to our team is our and the North Ridge (2005). you need to have extensive “Our Sherpas and the support we had from Jagged Globe “A superbly planned and Base Camp Manager, Mara mountaineering experience. was simply outstanding. We had the best of everything executed expedition – Larson. This will be Mara’s 6th You must have the ability to year on Everest. During the many and in ample supply. This definitely put us at an but then I wouldn’t climb mixed ground graded AD months cumulated and spent in advantage, especially with regards to our brilliant Sherpa expect anything less competently and be prepared Base Camp, she has picked up to move between and to live in team. They were an inspiration and a joy to work with.” from Jagged Globe.” a massive wealth of valuable high mountain camps unaided experience, knowledge and Mike Grocott Barry Welsh and unsupervised. skills. She is highly regarded Leader Caudwell Xtreme Everest 2007 Everest 2006 by our Sherpas and is an adept If you would like to discuss mountaineer herself, having our Everest expedition, climbed as far as the South Col, please contact Simon just to take a quick look around! at Jagged Globe: On Everest with Pumori in the background. [email protected] Photo: Rhys Jones 20/21 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:19 Page 22

Containing the great peaks Porter Aid Post Update In 2007 we pledged to establish a Porter Aid Post in of the Himalaya, Karakoram, the Hinku Valley of Nepal, on the approach to Mera Peak. There are other aid posts dotted around the Himalaya, but not in this remote valley, where there Tien Shan and the Pamir, Asia has been an increasing number of porters assisting teams on Mera Peak. We are pleased to report that can boast the most impressive an aid post was up and running in the post-monsoon season and staffed by a medically trained Nepali. Additional training was to be given by British Doctor, mountain ranges in the world. Nick Mason, who, at the time of print, was due to visit Teahouses of Nepal with a Jagged Globe team, then stay on in the village The Nepalese ‘Teahouse’, of Tangnag, where the aid post is situated. Any porters best described as a ‘lodge’, in the area who are in need of medical assistance has become an integral part will, we hope, benefit from this facility. of the trekking experience in the Khumbu Valley and the Annapurna Region. The villages along the trails have numerous Teahouses that range from small, ramshackle buildings the mountains of with a few sleeping rooms and one dining/living area to larger, purpose-built lodges, some of which have fairly rudimentary en-suite bathrooms. All of our Nepalese treks now stay in Tea Houses, rather than camping, and we try to choose the smartest one in each village. This makes for a more comfortable trek, as you do not have to retreat to a cold tent each night, and you also spend more time in the company of the local Sherpa families that run the Teahouses. The Sherpani prepares food and Whether climbing or trekking amongst them, the experience of though there is a menu, most asia Teahouses serve up similar travelling to these areas will never be forgotten. The attraction dishes, from traditional Dhal Bhat (lentils and rice), to ‘Western’ of the mountains is magnetic and most people return more food, such as Pizza or Spaghetti Bolognaise. Teahouses aren’t than once to explore a new area or to climb another peak. normally booked in advance – your trek Sirdar will send a porter ahead of the group each day to reserve a particular Teahouse. The mountain ranges of Asia are hugely diverse, Our expeditions and treks are mostly tried and Your leader will decide which mainly due to the climate, which is profoundly tested objectives. For the enthusiastic trekker, one, based on our affected by the mountains themselves. The great the Annupurna Circuit, Everest Base Camp Trek recommendations and his or her barrier of the Himalaya prevents the summer or K2 Base Camp & Ghondokoro La Trek are previous experience of the route. monsoon from crossing it, so Nepal to the south superb opportunities to get into the heart of the Frequently, the Sirdar or other is lush and forested, while Tibet to the north is a mountains. A step up from these are some of members of your Sherpa team high-altitude desert. Trips to the Himalaya usually our ‘Trekking Peaks’ – easier climbs such as Stok will have family connections take place either side of the monsoon, in the Kangri and Mera Peak are best described as treks within a village and it might be spring or autumn. The Karakoram and Chinese culminating in the ascent of a non-technical peak. that you stay with relatives of Pamirs are barely reached by the monsoon, At the other end of the scale, we have some major some of our local staff. and they are colder, so the summer months undertakings, which are only available to are the best time to go there. accomplished climbers, such as Muztag Ata, Everest and Ama Dablam. Gasherbrum IV’s west face, as seen from the Baltoro Glacier, K2 Base Camp & Ghondokoro La trek. Photo: Ross Bishop

Everest Base Camp. Photo: Simon Lowe Monkey Temple. Photo: Guy Manning Everest’s Lhotse Face. Photo: Roger McMorrow Photo: Simon Lowe

Mingma Temba Sherpa. Photo: Simon Lowe

22/23 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:20 Page 24

Everest Base Camp Trek NEW! High Passes to Everest The The classic walk to Base Camp following the optimum ascent profile. Trek to Base Camp via Gokyo Lakes and two challenging high passes. 5,600m (18,368ft) / 20 Days / Grade T1 5,600m (18,368ft) / 24 Days / Grade T2 Mountains The trek to Everest Base Camp On arrival in Kathmandu, Kala Patar, an excellent view This is the ultimate three-week trekking Cho La. The crossing of the Cho La involves of Asia is justifiably one of the most we transfer to our comfortable point for Everest. In the spring, experience for those who wish to visit Everest walking up steep scree, which is frequently icy, famous in the world. It takes you hotel, which is situated away we are likely to meet members Base Camp. The route is longer and more to reach a small glacier at the top, before zig into the heart of the Nepalese from the busy city centre. The of the Jagged Globe Everest challenging than our twenty-day Everest Base zagging down the other side. We regain the EVEREST BASE Himalaya, with awe-inspiring following morning we take the Climbing team, who will be Camp Trek, as it crosses two high passes, the main Everest trail the following day and continue CAMP TREK views of many of the world’s spectacular Twin Otter flight to attempting the summit. Renjo La (5,388m) and the Cho La (5,380m) up to Kala Patar and Base Camp itself, where highest and most beautiful land on the mountain airstrip and takes in the viewing point of Gokyo Ri in the spring, we may meet members of the DATES: Overall, the Everest Base Camp mountains. To maximise your at Lukla, the start point for the (5,483m). This westerly approach to Everest Jagged Globe Everest climbing team. From Sun 20 Apr – Fri 9 May 2008 trek is mainly on good trails, Sun 27 Apr – Fri 16 May 2008 chances of reaching Base trek up the Khumbu Valley. provides amazing vistas of the world’s highest Base Camp, we complete our trekking circuit apart from the last day up Sun 4 May – Fri 23 May 2008 Camp and to ensure you From the outset, your Jagged mountain and should be considered in by returning to Lukla down the main Khumbu to Base Camp, which is on Sun 5 Oct – Fri 24 Oct 2008 enjoy the experience to the full, Globe leader will set a relaxing particular, by the keen photographer Valley, via the many Sherpa villages, including moraine (rocky ground). Sun 12 Oct – Fri 31 Oct 2008 our itinerary spends a leisurely pace, as we follow the trail or by those who want a tougher trek. Thyangboche, with its impressive monastery. You should expect to trek for Sun 19 Oct – Fri 7 Nov 2008 eleven days on the trail from through the many Sherpa Back in Kathmandu, we can explore the city’s 4 to 5 hours each day, but some Our Everest adventure begins with a flight Lukla (2,840m) to Everest Base villages, including the famous many famous monasteries, shop in the Thamel PRICES: days will feel harder than others, from Kathmandu to Lukla in the Khumbu Valley. AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Camp (c5,600m). In spring trading town of Namche Bazaar district, or simply relax at our hotel, which is depending on the altitude gain. From here, we trek to Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa Kathmandu 2007, Jagged Globe organised and Thyangboche, with its situated away from the heat and hustle and We stay in ‘Teahouses’ (lodges) capital, before breaking off the main Everest $2,821 $3,276 £1,300 thirteen treks for the Caudwell important Buddhist Monastery. bustle of downtown Kathmandu. for the whole route, as these trail and heading west to Thame and onwards Xtreme Everest expedition, which In Pheriche, we will visit the OPTIONAL SINGLE are more comfortable than towards the remote Nangpa Valley, close to the This trek is suitable for fit walkers or those conducted medical research hospital run by the Himalayan HOTEL ROOM: camping and provide a better border with Tibet. The Renjo La is a tough day, with previous trekking experience. If you have £95 into the effects of hypoxia (lack Rescue Association and learn opportunity to meet the local but our reward is stunning views of Everest, as completed the Inca Trail, climbed Kilimanjaro of oxygen). These treks followed more about high altitude Sherpa families that run them. well as mountains to the east and Cho Oyu or are a regular weekend hill walker, you could a similar itinerary, with a slightly acclimatisation. From the EVEREST TEAM TREK All our treks are led by (the world’s sixth highest mountain) to the west. consider the High Passes to Everest . The trek is different schedule also over last Teahouse on the trail at experienced Jagged Globe It is a leisurely descent to idyllic Gokyo Lakes, led by an experienced Jagged Globe leader, DATES: eleven days. 96% of participants Gorak Shep, we spend one day leaders, supported by our where we will have a rest day, before climbing supported by our Nepalese Sherpas, cook staff Sun 23 Mar – Sun 13 Apr 2008 reached Base Camp. trekking into Base Camp, and Nepalese Sherpas and porters. the famous view point of Gokyo Ri. Our route and porters. Please note that you will spend one another making the ascent of PRICES: continues over the colossal Ngozumpa Glacier night camping on this trek, the rest of the time AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ then climbs to the foot of the next high pass, the you will stay in Teahouses. Kathmandu $2,821 $3,276 £1,300 OPTIONAL SINGLE The Everest viewpoint, Kala Patar, bathed in sunlight, with Pumori behind. Chorten and prayer flags in the Khumbu Valley. Photo: Mungo Ross Tents at Everest Base Camp. Photo: Michael Tee Photo: Mungo Ross HOTEL ROOM: £95 HIGH PASSES TO EVEREST DATES: Fri 2 May – Sun 25 May 2008 Fri 3 Oct – Sun 26 Oct 2008 Fri 10 Oct – Sun 2 Nov 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Kathmandu $3,711 $4,309 £1,710 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £95 EVEREST NEW! Everest Base BASE CAMP & ISLAND PEAK Camp & Island Peak DATES: A new trip for the aspiring mountaineer combining the Sun 27 Apr – Wed 21 May 2008 Sun 5 Oct – Wed 29 Oct 2008 classic trek to Base Camp and a 6,000m Himalayan peak. Sun 12 Oct – Wed 5 Nov 2008 6,189m (20,305ft) / 25 Days / Grade 2B PRICES: For those who prefer a more moderate normal route to the summit from a high camp. AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Everest Team Trek introduction to Himalayan climbing than The feeling of climbing on a Himalayan peak, Kathmandu $4,080 $4,738 £1,880 Join Jagged Globe’s 2008 Everest Climbing our Mera and Island Peak or Khumbu Climber as the sun rises over the Himalayas and nearby expeditions (overleaf), this new itinerary involves Ama Dablam, is beyond superlatives! OPTIONAL SINGLE Team on the trek to Base Camp. a steady trek to Everest Base Camp at c5,600m, HOTEL ROOM: To join this expedition, participants need to have 5,600m (18,368ft) / 22 Days / Grade T1 prior to crossing the Kongma La (5,535m) and £95 completed climbs of Scottish Grade II or Alpine an attempt on Island Peak (6,189m). In Spring 2008, Jagged Globe will organise its based in the Sherpa village of Dingboche PD. Overall this trip is less sustained and physically 13th expedition to climb Mount Everest. If you (4,410m), located below the North Face of Ama As with our tried and tested Everest Base Camp tough than either Mera and Island Peak or NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include would like to join the climbing team for the trek Dablam. From here, we will trek up the Imja Valley Trek, we ensure our gradual acclimatisation by Khumbu Climber. However, the technical difficulty all airline taxes, as these are not optional to Base Camp, there are limited spaces on this towards Island Peak and explore the south side of taking eleven days to trek from Lukla to Everest is a grade up from Mera Peak. All expeditions if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. special trip. The team will spend two days longer Pokalde and Kongma Tse, before continuing up Base Camp. Having walked up Kala Patar stay in lodges whilst in the Khumbu Valley, with The price less tax is shown for comparison. than our standard itinerary to get to Base Camp, the trail to Everest Base Camp. After saying our (5,600m) and to Everest Base Camp, we then cross camping on Island Peak. Experienced Jagged as they will want to be extremely well-acclimatised farewells, we will return with our Jagged Globe the Kongma La to access the Imja Valley, which Globe leaders, supported by our Nepalese before reaching their home for the next two trek leader down the Khumbu Valley, before leads to Island Peak. At the base of the mountain Sherpas and Porters, lead each trip. months. We will spend these extra days with them, flying back to Kathmandu. we refresh our rope skills before climbing the 24/25 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:22 Page 26

Summit of Mera Peak. Photo: Chris Groves Photo: Mungo Ross En route to High Camp, Mera Peak. Photo: Mungo Ross Photo: Mungo Ross Sunrise on Mera Peak. Photo: Mungo Ross The Mountains of Asia MERA AND ISLAND PEAK DATES: Fri 4 Apr – Sat 3 May 2008 Fri 18 Apr – Sat 17 May 2008 Fri 3 Oct – Sat 1 Nov 2008 Fri 10 Oct – Sat 8 Nov 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Kathmandu $4,731 $5,494 £2,180 OPTIONAL SINGLE Mera Peak HOTEL ROOM: An ascent of Nepal’s highest trekking peak in a compact three-week adventure. £95 6,476m (21,246ft) / 24 Days / Grade 2A MERA PEAK Mera is a popular introduction to Himalayan less demanding, so that the fabulous views on mountaineering. It is the highest peak in Nepal the way to the top can be enjoyed to the full. DATES: that only requires a basic level of mountaineering Fri 4 Apr – Sun 27 Apr 2008 After flying to Lukla, we head south before Fri 18 Apr – Sun 11 May 2008 skill and experience. Fit trekkers and climbers join crossing a ridge to reach the Hinku Valley. Fri 3 Oct – Sun 26 Oct 2008 us every year on the straightforward snow climb Following this north, we ascend steadily to Fri 10 Oct – Sun 2 Nov 2008 to the summit. the Mera La at 5,415m. From our top camp Fri 17 Oct – Sun 9 Nov 2008 Mera Peak lies in a beautiful, uninhabited on the glacier above the Mera La, a steady, PRICES: region and boasts a summit that gives superb low-angled snow climb leads to a final short AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and but steep section which guards the summit Kathmandu Kangchenjunga. Our approach to Mera is longer and provides a fitting climax to the climb. $3,863 $4,486 £1,780 than that provided by most expedition organisers After the climb, we cross the Zatrawa La and OPTIONAL SINGLE in order to increase the acclimatisation period. descend to Lukla, returning to Kathmandu only HOTEL ROOM: This greatly improves everyone’s chances of a few days after reaching our Himalayan summit. £95 reaching the summit and makes its attainment KHUMBU CLIMBER DATES: Fri 11 Apr – Thu 8 May 2008 Fri 3 Oct – Thu 30 Oct 2008 Fri 10 Oct – Thu 6 Nov 2008 Khumbu Climber PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ The original action-packed climbing adventure in the shadow of Everest. Kathmandu 6,189m (20,305ft) / 28 Days / Grade 3B $4,731 $5,494 £2,180 OPTIONAL SINGLE Khumbu Climber is a fast-moving and Peak, before the short walk to the high camp at HOTEL ROOM: ambitious expedition, taking us into the heart of 5,600m. The climb involves Grade 1 scrambling £95 the Khumbu Region with our sights set on three on rock, a steep snow face and an airy finale peaks up to 6,189m high. The itinerary and our along a knife-edge ridge. After a rest in the NOTE: small group sizes (maximum 9 places) enable Sherpa farming village of Dingboche, we UK law requires the full price to include us to do a lot of climbing while viewing some approach our final objective, Lobuje East. Our all airline taxes, as these are not optional Mera & Island Peak of the world’s highest mountains. Our objectives Base Camp is situated in a sheltered and idyllic if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. A remote trek with ascents of two of Nepal’s best-known peaks. are Pokalde (5,806m), Island Peak (6,189m) and grassy cirque, with fabulous views of Cholatse The price less tax is shown for comparison. 6,476m (21,246ft) & 6,189m (20,305ft) / 30 Days / Grade 3B Climbing Island Peak. Photo: Michael Tee Lobuje East (6,119m). We climb all of them by (6,335m) and Aralam Tse (6,423m). We move to their standard routes, which equate to Scottish a high camp and the following morning climb II/Alpine grades PD. Therefore participants need rock to reach a long snow ridge, which steepens Mera Peak and Island Peak are Nepal’s most By now, we should be extremely well acclimatised to have completed climbs of a similar standard, towards the summit and provides super views sought-after trekking peaks. Being located in and should find the ascent of Island Peak good with our Winter Mountaineering course in of Everest. Our adventure continues with the separate valley systems, their combination fun and not too demanding. The climb along Scotland and our 4,000ers courses in the crossing of the Cho La, a high, glaciated pass, provides a very challenging expedition and its narrow and exposed summit ridge, with Alps being ideal preparation. which leads to Gokyo Lakes and Gokyo Ri. a comparable alternative to our equally Lhotse Shar looming behind, provides an We then descend to re-join the Khumbu Valley After our flight into Lukla, we trek up the ambitious Khumbu Climber. appropriate climax to one of our most and trek back to Lukla via Namche Bazaar. highly regarded expeditions. Khumbu Valley towards Everest and establish After climbing Mera, we descend into the remote a Base Camp in an idyllic cirque to the south Each Khumbu Climber expedition will be Hongu Valley and follow it to the high pass of the Places on Mera and Island Peak are available of Pokalde. Here we refresh our rope skills and led by an experienced Jagged Globe leader, Amphu Labtsa. This is a wild, mountainous area to climbers with alpine experience of routes climbing techniques before our ascent. Pokalde supported by our sherpas and porters. We overlooked by impressive peaks, including graded PD/AD, or Scottish Grade II. Our Winter is the easiest of our objectives, with the route to include spare weather days on both Island Peak Chamlang, Ama Dablam and Baruntse. The route Mountaineering course in Scotland, or any of the summit involving a rocky scramble. Then we and Lobuje East. We stay in lodges whilst in the across the Amphu Labtsa weaves through steep our 4,000ers courses in the Alps would provide move up the Imja Valley to the base of Island Khumbu Valley and use tents on the mountains. glacial terrain and involves an exciting roped suitable preparation. descent, to arrive at Island Peak Base Camp.

26/27 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:24 Page 28

Climbers approaching ABC (c5,400m) on the south west ridge of Ama Dablam. Photo: Tom Briggs Ama Dablam An ascent of the famous ‘Matterhorn of the Himalaya’. 6,856m (22,494ft) / 31 Days / Grade 5D

The stunning sentinel of Ama Dablam is the mountain whilst team members focus on one of the most beautiful and photographed acclimatising, without burning themselves out. mountains in the Himalaya. Anyone who treks Over the last seven years, all of our expeditions up the Everest Trail cannot avoid being drawn have had members reach the summit. towards its striking profile. The regular route up The route from Base Camp up the South-West the South-West Ridge is a tough and sustained Ridge involves steep snow, ice and rock climbing climb, yet despite this, Ama Dablam is a popular in very exposed situations. Ropes are fixed for the objective and during the main autumn climbing entire climb and three or four camps are used season, it is very busy. above Base Camp. We climb it during the early winter, when there are Applicants need to be technically proficient and fewer teams on the mountain and less crowding. should have climbed Alpine routes of AD, Scottish This period is also characterised by cold, clear Grade III or equivalent and be able to second weather, providing good climbing conditions. VS/5.7 on rock. Our 2008 expedition will be led We provide a high degree of Sherpa support on by Caroline Ogden IFMGA. Ama Dablam. Our Sherpas stock the camps on ama

dablamCrossing the Dudh Khosi river. Photo: Chris Goddard Pemchhiri Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Dean Wheeldon Climbing to Camp 2. Photo: Tom Briggs Approaching the Yellow Tower. Photo: Chris Goddard The Mountains of Asia AMA DABLAM DATES: Climbing to Camp 2. Photo: Ian Hicks Sun 9 Nov – Tue 9 Dec 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Ama Dablam: Kathmandu A Brief History $7,812 $9,072 £3,600 1958 1961 1979 1983 2000 OPTIONAL SINGLE Ama Dablam means ‘Mother’s Ama Dablam’s south-west ridge The first ascent of the south-west based for months below the The north ridge was climbed A joint Belgian-Swiss The north-west ridge saw HOTEL ROOM: Charm Box’. A ‘Dablam’ is the was first attempted by a British ridge was by members of the south-west ridge, the temptation by a large French team led by expedition climbed the numerous attempts on it £145 name of a pendant worn by team, led by Alfred Gregory. Silver Hut Scientific Expedition, to climb Ama Dablam proved Louis Audoubert. It is now the east ridge, descending before British Alpinists, Rich Sherpanis, which contains They abandoned their ascent led by Sir Edmund Hillary. too great by the middle of second most popular route by the south-west ridge, Cross and Jules Cartwright NOTE: pictures of the gods. It refers at 6,100m: “we found no feasible Objectives of the expedition winter. The route remained on the mountain. thus making the first traverse climbed it in pure alpine style UK law requires the full price to include to the hanging glacier on the way of climbing the mountain”. included research into high- unrepeated until 1979 when of the mountain. The route over 10 days. It was considered all airline taxes, as these are not optional mountain’s south-west face, if a flight is included. You pay either the full altitude physiology, extensive the second ascent was filmed remains unrepeated. one of the last great lines of price (from the UK) or the land-only price. just below the summit. Ama mapping and a search for the for American television and the Khumbu Valley. The price less tax is shown for comparison. Dablam has four major ridges, Yeti in the nearby Rolwaling included an all-star cast which were climbed between Valley! The large team was of climbers. 1961 and 2000:

28/29 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:25 Page 30

Lhakpa Ri & The The North Col Mountains The world’s most climbable 7,000m peak, followed by an ascent to the of Asia North Col of Everest. 7,045m (23,107ft) / 29 Days / Grade 2C ANNAPURNA annapur na In spring 2007, we combined these two stunning CIRCUIT Annapurna Circuit Trek mountaineering objectives for the first time, with DATES: The classic trek around the Annapurna Massif. great success. The majority of team members Sat 3 May – Sun 25 May 2008 from both of our expeditions summited Lhakpa Sat 4 Oct – Sun 26 Oct 2008* 5,416m (17,769ft) / 23 Days / Grade T1 Ri (7,045m) and also reached the North Col of Sat 11 Oct – Sun 2 Nov 2008* The Annapurna Circuit is one After relaxing at the Summit On the way, we experience All of our Annapurna Circuit Everest (c7,000m). PRICES: of the most spectacular and Hotel and a day of sightseeing in multiple Nepali subcultures, treks are led by an experienced The expeditions start with a flight from AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ varied walks in the world. Starting Kathmandu, we drive to Pokhara, from farmers in the low valleys, Jagged Globe trek leader, who Kathmandu to Lhasa, where we spend several Kathmandu in lush green valleys at less than where our trek begins. We follow to descendents of Tibetan is supported by a Sherpa Guide days acclimatising in the ‘Forbidden City’, before $2,604 $3,024 £1,200 1,000 metres above sea level, valleys and canyons up one side traders living in the higher and porters. The trek is suitable travelling across the Tibetan Plateau to Everest PRICES – *AUTUMN DATES: we explore the Himalayas from of the Annapurnas and down regions. At night we fall asleep in for fit walkers, who are happy Base Camp. Once the team is sufficiently FULL PRICE LESS TAX LAND ONLY bottom to top and from many the other, often walking beside comfortable lodges to anything walking for 6 hours per day, acclimatised, we make the three-day trek up Kathmandu different angles and perspectives. rushing streams, which pound from a background splashing of on mostly good trails. the East Rongbuk Glacier, following the ‘Magic £1,825 £1,654.30 £1,100 The scale of the landscape never down over white granite rocks a small stream to the cacophony Highway’, to Advance Base Camp (6,400m), OPTIONAL SINGLE fails to astound. Dawn from Poon and through deep pools. We of water pouring from the high our launch pad for both climbs. Lhakpa Ri is HOTEL ROOM: Hill, with the sun rising over pass through farms, villages and glaciers above and rushing out probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in £145 Machhapuchhare (the ‘Fish rural terraces, before heading the deep gorges. At the end the world, but it is not a ‘trek’ as some trekking Tail Peak’) and illuminating higher into more traditional of the trek, we fly from Pokhara companies suggest! The final section of the Dhaulagiri in a rush of daylight, Tibetan style architecture, and back to Kathmandu, where route to the summit follows a spectacular snow ANNAPURNA while the mists start to well up then into the alpine heights and we have time to explore the city ridge, in a superb position with incredible views SANCTUARY from the dark valleys, is a over the snow on the Thorong further, before our journey home. of the North Face of Everest. DATES: vision one will never forget. La pass at 5,416 metres. Following our ascent of Lhakpa Ri, we have a rest Thu 8 May – Sat 24 May 2008 day before attempting our climb to the North Col Thu 9 Oct – Sat 25 Oct 2008* Thu 16 Oct – Sat 1 Nov 2008* of Everest. The route was discovered by George Mallory and his team in 1922, and is the key to PRICES: the ascent of Everest from the Tibetan side. Using AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ fixed ropes, we ascend up the steep flanks of the Kathmandu North Col, to its crest and Camp 1 on Everest at $2,387 $2,772 £1,100 7,000m, with the whole of the route up the North PRICES – *AUTUMN DATES: Ridge visible directly above. FULL PRICE LESS TAX LAND ONLY Kathmandu After the climbs, we return to Base Camp and £1,825 £1,654.30 £1,100 drive via the Friendship Highway to Kathmandu, to complete our month-long Everest experience. OPTIONAL SINGLE To join either expedition, you need to have HOTEL ROOM: mountaineering and remote trekking experience, £145 preferably at altitudes in excess of 5,000 metres. LHAKPA RI & THE NORTH COL DATES: Sat 26 Apr – Sat 24 May 2008 Sat 3 May – Sat 31 May 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Kathmandu $9,852 $11,441 £4,450 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: Annapurna Sanctuary Trek £225 Trek to Annapurna Base Camp with views of the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri. NOTE: 4,130m (13,550ft) / 17 Days / Grade T1 UK law requires the full price to include Potala Palace, Lhasa. Photo: Andy Chapman all airline taxes, as these are not optional The impressive amphitheatre of are relatively moderate and trek. From here, we ascend Throughout the trek, you if a flight is included. You pay either the full the Annapurna Sanctuary draws the trails are good. You should to the famous viewpoint of are accompanied by a price (from the UK) or the land-only price. North Face of Everest. Photo: Ian Parnell The price less tax is shown for comparison. trekkers each year, enticed by expect to trek between 4 and 6 Poon Hill (3,190m), early in the knowledgeable Jagged the dramatic mountains and hours each day. Our itinerary is morning, when the air is clear Globe trek leader, local glaciers, including Annapurna I designed to provide a steady and the views most reliable. Sherpa Guide and porters. (8,091m) and Dhaulagiri rate of acclimatisation, as well Following the Modi Khola We stay in comfortable lodges (8,167m), two of the world’s as the best stand off views of Valley to visit Machhapuchare throughout. At the end of the fourteen highest peaks. the mountains as you enter Base Camp and eventually, trek, we fly back from Pokhara the Sanctuary. Annapurna Base Camp is to Kathmandu, before our Our Annapurna Sanctuary trek a fabulous journey and for onward journey home. can be completed in just over We fly into Kathmandu many, the beginning of a two weeks from the UK and and spend the following day life long love of Nepal! is an excellent introduction to exploring the city, before driving trekking, as the overall altitudes to Pokhara and the start of the Machhupuchhare at dawn. Photo: Robert Mads Anderson

30/31 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:26 Page 32

Nubra Summits The A unique expedition in a wild and unspoilt range of the Indian Himalaya. 6,078m (19,935ft) / 23 Days / Grade 2B Mountains This is an expedition to a totally unspoilt range the Snui Valley, we will repeat the two peaks of Asia altai climber between Leh and the Nubra Valley, which we we pioneered routes on in 2007 and may have organised our first two expeditions to in 2007, a go at the remaining unnamed peak, which following a detailed reconnaissance by leader, hasn’t been climbed yet. ALTAI CLIMBER John Eames in 2005. On these expeditions, our It’s a further two days trek to Shahib Chasa, teams climbed two new peaks in the Snui Valley, DATES: our main objective. This is climbed from a high which they named Yangchan Kangri (5,710m) Sun 27 Jul – Mon 11 Aug 2008 camp via snow slopes and a precarious summit Sun 10 Aug – Mon 25 Aug 2008 and Mani Kangri (5,742m), and made what we ridge on mixed ground. To complete this superb believe is the first ascent of Sahib Chasa (6,078m). PRICES: itinerary, we will exit the main valley via the AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ We are returning in 2008, with John Eames as our Lasimola Pass, before returning to Delhi. To join Ulan Baatar leader once again. The itinerary begins with a the expedition, we recommend that you have $3,678 $4,271 £1,695 flight to Leh, where we acclimatise for two nights, previous trekking experience and have climbed before driving over the Kardong La to reach in Scotland or the Alps at Scottish Grade II or OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: Hundur. From here, we trek for five days through Alpine PD. £125 beautiful surroundings – deep gorges, grassy campsites, granite spires and snow capped peaks. From a Base Camp at the head of NUBRA SUMMITS DATES: Sat 2 Aug – Sun 24 Aug 2008 Stok Kangri PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ A fine trekking peak in Ladakh and an excellent Delhi introduction to mountaineering in the Himalaya. $4,112 $4,775 £1,895 6,121m (20,082ft) / 22 Days / Grade 1A OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: Jagged Globe first organised expeditions to a glacier and scree to the sharp south ridge, £195 Stok Kangri 20 years ago, in 1988. The peak is which leads, in a superbly exposed position, clearly visible from Leh, the capital of Ladakh to the narrow summit. A clear day provides STOK KANGRI and these days is a well-known and popular views worthy of a 6,000m Himalayan summit, mountain. We fly from Delhi to Leh and extending across Ladakh as far as the DATES: acclimatise by making a remote six-day trek, great mountains of the Karakoram. Sat 19 Jul – Sat 9 Aug 2008 through isolated villages and over passes from PRICES: To join the expedition, you need to be familiar Lamayuru to Chilling. On return to Leh, we rest AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ with the use of ice axe and crampons on low- for a full day and visit the nearby monasteries, Delhi angled terrain and be confident on British Grade before the trek to Base Camp. The ascent $3,678 $4,271 £1,695 I scrambles, such as Snowdon’s Crib Goch. Altai Climber from Base Camp crosses OPTIONAL SINGLE Visit a remote part of Mongolia and climb HOTEL ROOM: £195 the country’s highest mountain – Mt Khuiten. On the lower slopes of Mt. Khuiten. Photo: Peter Costello 4,375m (14,350ft) / 16 Days / Grade 2B NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional Many think of Mongolia which marks the intersection of Glacier, below the Five Saints. The Altai Climber expedition is if a flight is included. You pay either the full as a land of endless rolling the borders of Russia, China and We acclimatise on ridges by the suitable for those with previous price (from the UK) or the land-only price. grasslands, yet in the far western Mongolia, and Mt Snow Church border with Russia, with our first mountaineering experience to The price less tax is shown for comparison. corner of this landlocked (4,100m), arguably the most 2008 team hoping to see a total Scottish grade II/Alpine PD. country, dramatic glaciated beautiful mountain in north east eclipse of the sun, which will be peaks rise out of the steppe Asia. Lush alpine pastures make observed on 1 August. After 1 August 2008 Total and form natural borders with ideal grazing lands during the practicing skills in Base Camp, Solar Eclipse neighbouring China and Russia. summer months and local we trek up the Potaniin Glacier herders bring their herds of to climb Mt Nairandal and Mt Our 27 July Altai Climber The Altai Tavan Bogd Mountains yaks, sheep and horses to Khuiten. If the weather is kind expedition coincides with (Five Saints) are the highest the base of the mountains. and we have time, there is also a total eclipse of the Sun peaks in the Mongol Altai Range, the opportunity to climb Malchin with a magnitude of 1.039 which stretches some 2,000km We fly to Mongolia’s capital, Ulan (4,037m) from Base Camp, or to that will be visible from a from the Gobi Desert to the Baatar, and have an initial one trek up the Alexander Glacier narrow corridor through Greater Himalaya in Pakistan. day hike in nearby Terelj National towards Snow Church. One of the northern Canada, northern The Five Saints include Mt Khuiten Park. An internal flight and drive highlights of the trip is meeting part of Russia, western (4,375m), Mongolia’s highest takes us to our comfortable Base an Eagle Hunter on our return Mongolia and China. peak, Mt Nairandal (4,180m), Camp beside the Potaniin from the mountains.

Summit of Stok Kangri. Photo: Tom Pocock Mongolian children. Stok Kangri’s summit slopes. Photo: Tom Pocock Photo: Thierry Levenq

Mongolia. Photo: Thierry Levenq

32/33 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:27 Page 34

Trekking south from Concordia down the Vigne Glacier. Malubiting (7,458m) reflected in Rush Lake. Photo: Ross Bishop Photo: David Hamilton The Mountains of Asia K2 BASE CAMP & GHONDOKORO LA DATES: Sat 7 Jun – Sun 29 Jun 2008 Sat 5 July – Sun 27 July 2008 Sat 2 Aug – Sun 24 Aug 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Islamabad $4,329 $5,027 £1,995 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £165 RUSH PEAK & THE HUNZA VALLEY DATES: Sat 30 Aug – Sun 14 Sep 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Islamabad $3,461 $4,019 £1,595 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £165

NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. K2 Base Camp & Rush Peak & The price less tax is shown for comparison. Ghondokoro La The Hunza Valley The most spectacular trek The best short trek in the Karakoram, in the Karakoram Himalaya. with an ascent of Rush Peak. 5,585m (18,318ft) / 23 Days / Grade T3 5,098m (15,540ft) / 16 Days / Grade T2

This challenging trek gives great views of This trek combines all that is best in the This new two-week itinerary enables adventurous Glacier. The first part of the trek visits the Base four 8,000m peaks and is thought by many Karakoram: a visit to K2 Base Camp, trekkers to experience some of the best mountain Camp of Golden Peak (Spantik), located directly to be one of the best high mountain treks in a challenging ascent to a high pass, scenery in Pakistan’s dramatic Karakoram Range. below its stunning ‘golden pillar’. The second the world. Travelling via Skardu, the principle and the chance to experience two Jagged Globe leader, David Hamilton, did a part of the trek ascends the straightforward non- town in Baltistan, we trek along the Baltoro very different valleys. An unforgettable reconnaissance of the trek in September 2007, technical Rush Peak, which rises above Rush Phari Glacier to the heart of the Karakoram Range, mountain experience! from which we have put together our itinerary. Lake on a ridge separating the Hispar and Barpu passing dramatic rock spires and soaring glaciers. This 5,098m viewpoint offers one of best Jagged Globe first crossed the Ghondokoro The trip starts with a road journey from the peaks of snow and ice. Three huge glaciers mountain panoramas in the Karakoram. Hunza’s La in 1991, as part of an expedition that lowlands of the Punjab along the famous converge at Concordia, where we spend a high peaks, including Rakaposhi, Diran and Ultar, climbed Broad Peak. We have crossed the Karakoram Highway following the Indus River few days visiting the Base Camps of K2 and are visible close by. Baintha Brak (The Ogre) and pass three times in the past two years, and into the high mountains. The valleys of Hunza Broad Peak. From here we turn south to climb the Hispar La are visible in the middle distance. were one of the few teams to do so in 2007, are renowned for their friendly people and the 5,585m Ghondokoro La. Using ice axe, On clear days the Baltoro 8,000m peaks (K2, because of difficult conditions on the glacier. breathtaking landscape. Snow covered peaks crampons and fixed ropes we reach the pass Broad Peak, Gasherbrum) can just be seen far to and precipitous rock spires rise above the in the early morning light for glorious views of In 2008 we are organising three treks, the first the east. This is an unforgettable trekking journey irrigation channels and fertile terraced fields. K2 (8,611m), Broad Peak (8,047m), Gasherbrum of which will accompany our Gasherbrum II that shows you the best of the Karakoram. I (8,068m) and Gasherbrum II (8,035m) and climbing team to Gasherbrum II Base Camp Our trekking route starts from the small farming several other major peaks. and then onwards to K2 Base Camp. Because settlement of Hopar, passes through flower filled this trip will be in June, it will be too early in meadows in ablation valleys and involves five Descending through the green valleys of the season to cross Ghondokoro La, so we glacier crossings as it circumnavigates the Barpu Hushe provides a welcome change from the will retrace our steps back down the Baltoro rocky landscape on the Baltoro. A good trail Glacier to Askole. leads through vegetated ablation valleys where we will meet local herders tending their animals.

34/35 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:27 Page 36

Stunning views from high on Spantik. Muztag Ata. Photo: David Hamilton Photo: David Hamilton The Mountains of Asia SPANTIK DATES: Sat 26 Jul – Sun 24 Aug 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Islamabad $6,488 $7,535 £2,990 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £165

Summit of Cathedral Peak. Photo: Hamish Rose MUZTAG ATA DATES: Sat 26 Jul – Sun 24 Aug 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Islamabad $6,282 $7,295 £2,895 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £195 CATHEDRAL PEAK Spantik DATES: Sat 23 Aug – Sun 14 Sep 2008 The least difficult 7,000m peak in the Karakoram. PRICES: 7,027m (23,046ft) / 30 Days / Grade 2D AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Islamabad Spantik is an attractive peak in one of the quieter camps are used on the ascent located at 5,160m, $3,895 $4,523 £1,795 parts of the Karakoram. Lying at the upper end of 5,670m and 6,250m. Although the climbing is not the Chogolungma Glacier, it is one of the most difficult, it is a long route that demands stamina OPTIONAL SINGLE attainable 7,000m peaks in Asia. First climbed by and determination if the summit is to be reached. HOTEL ROOM: £165 a German party in 1955, the normal route on the Spantik is a truly Himalayan-scale objective south side of the mountain follows a moderately and an ideal next step for those who wish to angled snow ridge. In recent years this has had NOTE: experience a full-scale expedition for the first UK law requires the full price to include numerous ascents with a high proportion time, or those preparing for an 8,000m expedition. Cathedral Peak all airline taxes, as these are not optional of summiteers. if a flight is included. You pay either the full The 2008 expedition leader will be supported by A beautiful and rarely climbed price (from the UK) or the land-only price. The three day approach trek along the dramatic our experienced crew of local guides and cooks. 6,000m peak in the Karakoram. The price less tax is shown for comparison. Chogolungma Glacier passes through some On the mountain, several hand-picked high- beautiful mountain scenery, leading to Base altitude porters assist with load carrying between 6,247m (20,497ft) / 23 Days / Grade 3B Camp. The straightforward climbing follows camps, although team members also need to Cathedral Peak is a beautiful pyramid of snow and ice located the undulating 9km South East Ridge from the contribute to this. in the Hushe Valley of Baltistan. It lies on a ridge separating the Chogolungma Glacier to the summit. Three fixed Masherbrum and Aling Glaciers, just a few miles south of the towering bulk of 7,821m Masherbrum. First climbed by an Italian party in 1988, a Jagged Globe team made the 5th ascent of the Muztag Ata mountain in September 2006. The Hushe Valley has become famous in recent years for offering A popular 7,000m peak in the Chinese Pamir and excellent preparation for an 8,000er. some of the most dramatic scenery and best climbing in the 7,546m (24,757ft) / 30 Days / Grade 2D Karakoram Himalaya. Cathedral Peak Base Camp is a short trek from the roadhead, enabling us to minimise travel time and The huge dome of Muztag Ata offers a chance is soft, it might also be necessary to use snowshoes. maximise climbing time in this 3-week expedition. Two camps are to climb an exceptionally high mountain by a We therefore recommend that applicants have used above Base Camp. The climbing is varied and not without technically easy, but physically demanding route. previous experience on peaks higher than 6,000m some difficulties, with a steep snow and ice gully between Camps Overlooking China’s vast Takla Makan Desert, it is and train hard beforehand. 1 and 2, as well as a short steep (45°) summit section. Fixed ropes a popular objective with teams from continental We approach the mountain overland from are used as needed and high-altitude porters are employed to Europe and is an ideal stepping stone on the way Pakistan, via the Karakoram Highway and famous carry the bulk of the group equipment. to attempting an 8,000m peak. Jagged Globe Khunjerab Pass. On the return journey, we visit the is usually the only UK-based operator on the This expedition offers a unique chance to participate in a ancient city of Kashgar and fly from here back mountain and we have been successful with technically interesting ascent of a rarely climbed peak in the to Islamabad. Due to the lack of local porterage, members reaching the top on seven of our heart of the Karakoram Himalaya. Participants need to have for the past two years we have employed Sherpas previous expeditions. In 2008 we were also previous expedition experience, be familiar with fixed ropes from Nepal, to assist with establishing camps on able to reduce the cost of this trip. and have climbed Alpine AD and Scottish Grade III/IV. the mountain. This has been greatly appreciated Neal Short (profile page 51) will lead our 2008 expedition. The climb is long and tiring but the backdrop, by team members and in 2008, this support will be across the Pamir, Kun Lun and the Karakoram, provided by our high-altitude porters from Pakistan. is stunning. On the climb we use three camps The 2008 expedition leader will be Andy Chapman. and some load carrying is required. If the snow 36/37 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:28 Page 38

The Andes Mountains stretch the full Alpamayo length of South America, from Venezuela An alpine-style ascent on the ‘world’s most beautiful mountain’. 5,947m (19,511ft) / 23 Days / Grade 4B to Patagonia. They contain the highest Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly formed ice pyramid Camp along the famous Santa Cruz Valley situated in the heart of Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. and have five days to climb the mountain from mountains outside Asia and encompass Its impressive shape and spectacularly fluted ice a high camp on the col between Alpamayo face ensure that it remains a coveted summit for and Quitaraju. This col is reached via 1,000m aspiring alpine climbers. This expedition climbs of moraine above Base Camp and sections an even greater variety of landscapes the south-west face by either the Ferrari Route, of Grade II Scottish Ice. or the French Direct, on mostly 45° snow and ice. The classic Ferrari Route is sometimes threatened Team members must therefore be comfortable and mountain types. by a huge serac at the top of the south-west face. climbing Alpine AD or Scottish III/IV. This was the case in 2007 when our team chose to After arriving in Huaraz, at the foot of the climb the French Direct further to the right, as a less Cordillera Blanca, we travel to the Ishinca Valley objectively dangerous alernative. Though slightly to acclimatise on some superb peaks, such as longer (10 rope lengths, rather than 8), this route Urus Este (5,420m) and Ishinca (5,530m). The involves a similar level of technical difficulty and traverse of Ishinca is a great outing at Alpine gives a very direct line to the summit. Dave Walsh AD-. We then trek into Alpamayo Base will lead our 2008 expedition. americasouth & central Active volcanoes, ice fluted pyramids and immense rock monoliths are just a few examples of what this incredible continent has to offer. The mountains can be anything from Alpine to Himalayan in scale and their accessibility makes South America an excellent destination for a short trip.

Our South American expeditions include Located in Argentina, Aconcagua is a three-week Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary, the highest mountain outside Asia. It can which combines skills training with an ascent of be climbed from November to February Stepping onto the summit of Alpamayo, 1 July 2007. Cotopaxi and also in Ecuador, Antisana, a rarely and remains one of our most popular Photo: Mike Spencer climbed peak, suitable for more experienced mountaineering objectives. Finally, in Central climbers. Further south, we offer a full-blown America, the Mexican Volcanoes expedition expedition to climb Huascaran, Peru’s highest is a two-week trip, suitable for those who are Peru 2007 report to the summit. 2003 had Huascaran, the first few days on slopes of 40°. We crossed peak and Alpamayo, arguably the world’s most looking for an introduction to high altitude. seen the worst accident in the saw us progress from Base the bergshrund and climbed aesthetically beautiful mountain. In Bolivia, our On 1 July, the Jagged Globe mountain’s history, when the Camp to Moraine Camp, to steeper snow to a serac ever-popular Bolivian Climber expedition takes team summited Alpamayo via cornice collapsed and killed Camp 1 on the glacier before barrier. Here the route finding on three major mountains in three weeks, the French Route. Expedition 8 people, just before Ed Chard’s the infamous Garganta Ice was not at all straightforward. including the formidable Illimani. leader, Andy Chapman wrote team arrived in Base Camp. Fall. The next morning at 4am The mountain changes each from Peru: That year, Ed chose to climb we were up early and ready year, and eventually, with to tackle the icefall. This daylight approaching, we “The Ferrari Route was not nearby Quitaraju (6,020m), proved to be an exciting day, followed a line of ice cliffs climbable due to a very large as did Richard Gammage’s and despite a few centimetres and moved together over and unstable cornice. The team in 2005. In 2007 we visited Approaching the crater on Orizaba, Mexico. Cotopaxi, Ecuador Vocanoes. Bolivian Climber. of snow, the ascent took just a few crevasses to the final Photo: Peter Costello Photo: Thierry Levenq Photo: Joe Gittins ascent up the French Direct the mountain earlier in the under 6 hours to reach the easy, but time-consuming took us 8 hours from col camp season, with some members security of Camp 2 on the col snow slopes leading to the and it took 4 hours for us to then climbing Huascaran. 1 at 6,000m. Derek commented summit. These took 2 /2 hours abseil back down and return Andy Chapman wrote: that he found the ice fall more to ascend, with all members to col camp. We had “After a successful time on difficult than on Gasherbrum II and local guides reaching the excellent weather.” Alpamayo, myself, Shane and in Pakistan. 6,769m summit. The weather Ed carried on to Husacaran, The cornice on Alpamayo has and views from the top were where we teamed up with “On summit day we left been a serious problem in the quite amazing.” Derek and David, both of camp a little after 2.15am, past few years. In 2006 and whom had been acclimatising with the first hour being 2004 it was not too big and our on Pisco. Once we reached straightforward cramponing teams climbed the Ferrari Route

38/39 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:29 Page 40

Huascaran South & Climb Peru’s highest mountain after acclimatising on Pisco and the Santa Cruz trek. 6,769m (22,208ft) / 26 Days / Grade 3B Central The Peruvian Andes the Garganta, which is gained team was our first since 2001 to America are considered by many by climbing along the edge of climb to the higher, south summit. View of Huascaran from Pisco. The icefall on Huascaran. Photo: Adele Pennington Photo: Adele Pennington mountaineers to be the a tumbling icefall. This can give The Huascaran expedition utilises most beautiful and impressive several short steep pitches, multiple camps and is excellent ALPAMAYO mountains in the world. The although the difficulties can preparation for climbers who DATES: ascent of Huascaran follows an change overnight. From the top might be considering bigger Sat 14 Jun – Sun 6 Jul 2008 acclimatisation trek through the camp just below the Garganta, peaks in the future. Mountaineers Santa Cruz Valley and a climb the route to the south summit PRICES: who have experience of Alpine of Pisco (5,752m), an attractive follows snow and ice slopes, AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ PD+ routes, or those who have snow peak with interesting steeply at first, to the highest Lima previously climbed trekking climbing and excellent views point in the tropics. Access to $4,687 $5,443 £2,160 peaks in Nepal, might choose of Huascaran itself. the south summit is sometimes OPTIONAL SINGLE Huascaran as their introduction barred by a large crevasse, HOTEL ROOM: Huascaran is Peru’s highest to a full-blown expedition. in which case we then climb £175 mountain; its two summits are Dave Walsh will be leading the lower north summit (6,664m). separated by an enormous col, our 2008 team. Free regional departures In July 2007, Andy Chapman’s from most UK airports.

EXTENSION: HUASCARAN 10 Days / Grade 4B Stay on after Alpamayo for an amazing month of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. Join the Huascaran group for an ascent of Peru’s highest mountain after you have climbed Alpamayo. Price £560. HUASCARAN DATES: Bolivian Climber Sat 21 Jun – Wed 16 Jul 2008 PRICES: A Jagged Globe classic – ascents of four AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ peaks in the Bolivian Cordillera Real. Lima 6,462m (21,200ft) / 22 Days / Grade 3B $4,579 $5,317 £2,110 Straddling the Andes, Bolivia is an unspoilt high- OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: altitude country, which boasts some very high £175 yet conveniently accessible mountains. Bolivian Climber is an exciting, well-balanced itinerary, Free regional departures climbing four major peaks. The expedition is from most UK airports. particularly suitable for those who have completed Alpine routes of PD or Himalayan BOLIVIAN CLIMBER peaks such as Mera, or equivalent. DATES: As always, we take great care to allow adequate Sat 5 Jul – Sat 26 Jul 2008 acclimatisation on this expedition. After visiting the Sat 12 Jul – Sat 2 Aug 2008 famous Lake Titicaca, we warm up on Pico Austria Sat 26 Jul – Sat 16 Aug 2008 (5,100m) and Pequeño Alpamayo (5,337m) in the PRICES: Condoriri area. AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ La Paz Our main climbing objectives are Huayna Potosi $3,895 $4,523 £1,795 (6,094m) and Illimani (6,462m), which overlooks the capital city, La Paz. Both provide excellent snow OPTIONAL SINGLE climbs with the most challenging day being the HOTEL ROOM: summit day on Illimani. The most difficult section £175 involves at least one rope length of 50° ice climbing at an altitude of over 5,800m. NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include Over the past few years, our teams have been all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full extremely successful with members regularly price (from the UK) or the land-only price. summiting on Huayna Potosi and Illimani. Part The price less tax is shown for comparison. of this success is down to our excellent English- speaking Bolivian guides, who are familiar with the mountains and local conditions. Our head Bolivian guide, Carlos Escobar, summited Everest in 2006 as a leader on our Jagged Globe expedition. This wider expedition experience is invaluable and strengthens the bond between our in-country guides and the leaders that we send from the UK. Bolivian Climber continues to be one of our most popular expeditions, balancing an action-packed programme of climbing with well-earned rest Huanya Potosi, Bolivian Climber. Photo: Mic Rofe periods and memorable cultural elements. 40/41 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:31 Page 42

Jagged Globe Head of Operations, Adele Pennington out in front on Antisana. Photo: Javier Herrera Ecuador Volcanoes South & Antisana Skills training and ascents of the equatorial summits A two-week climbing adventure in a wild area of Ecuador. of Iliniza North, Cayambe and Cotopaxi. Central 5,704m (18,709ft) / 15 Days / Grade 3B 5,897m (19,347ft) / 20 Days / Grade 2A America Antisana is a rarely mountaineering skills on the Ecuador’s volcanoes are well known amongst maze of crevasses, which we must weave climbed peak in a remote flanks of Cotopaxi, before climbers, with the world’s highest active round to reach Cayambe’s summit – the third and interesting part of Ecuador. travelling onwards to the Iliniza volcano, Cotopaxi, being a much sought highest in Ecuador. Finally, after this careful ANTISANA It rises impressively above the Ecological Reserve and our first after prize. Our mountaineering programme preparation, we are ready for Cotopaxi DATES: grasslands of the altiplano, night at altitude. From our Base in Ecuador has evolved over the last decade, (5,897m). This is the steepest mountain we Sat 25 Oct – Sat 8 Nov 2008 surrounded by herds of wild Camp, we make an ascent of and now combines a technical training course attempt with an interesting route among PRICES: horses, wolves, llamas and Iliniza North (5,126m). with ascents of three major peaks. ice flutings leading to the spectacular AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ condors. The expedition is more snowbound crater rim. Following a rest day, it is a short After a tour of Quito, we make some important Quito backcountry than our Ecuador but difficult drive in jeeps to the acclimatisation treks nearby on scenic hills The mountains in Ecuador are easily $3,776 $4,385 £1,740 Volcanoes expedition, as some foot of Antisana, which we climb before the first major mountain, Illiniza North. accessible and huts provide convenient of the nights are spent camping OPTIONAL SINGLE over two days, before heading At 5,216m its ascent is an important part of our accommodation at the foot of each climb. in the mountains rather than HOTEL ROOM: back to Quito. acclimatisation and involves easy scrambling Between climbs, we stay in some comfortable £175 staying in huts. The greater sections on the volcano. Then we base haciendas. Participants do not need any difficulty and remoteness Overall, the ascent of ourselves at an excellent hut on Cayambe previous mountaineering experience to join. Free regional departures from most UK airports. of our objectives, combined Antisana is a superb and (5,790m) for a course in alpine climbing skills, Those who have climbed before can refresh with their scenic beauty, varied mountaineering day including ice axe and crampon use and and improve their skills on Cayambe and have make this an inspiring alpine out and the whole trip is ropework for glacial travel. On the third day, the opportunity to extend their stay by 3 days ECUADOR climbing expedition. particularly suitable for those we put these skills into practice on the intricate and attempt Chimborazo (see ‘Extensions’). VOLCANOES with previous alpine climbing The expedition spends a day experience on routes up to DATES: in Quito, before travelling out Grade PD/AD or Scottish II. Sun 20 Jan – Fri 8 Feb 2008* to the countryside for two Fri 4 Jul – Wed 23 Jul 2008 acclimatisation hikes. Then The 2008 expedition will Mexican Volcanoes Sun 3 Aug – Fri 22 Aug 2008 we spend a day revising our be led by Dave Walsh. Ascents of three attractive volcanoes in Mexico, Sun 2 Nov – Fri 21 Nov 2008** Tue 16 Dec – Sun 4 Jan 2009 including Orizaba – the country’s highest. 5,746m (18,700ft) / 16 Days / Grade 2A PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ This expedition is a fine introduction to After our ascent of Izta, we visit the fascinating Quito mountaineering at higher altitudes for those cultural centre of Puebla, before arriving at $3,581 $4,158 £1,650 with limited time. In just over two weeks, we Orizaba (5,746m). Orizaba is the highest peak OPTIONAL SINGLE climb three major summits and explore some in Mexico and the third highest mountain in HOTEL ROOM: of the interesting culture of Mexico. If you are North America. It is a perfectly conical shaped £175 looking for a first expedition, or a superb volcano dripping with glaciers, which we have Free regional departures mountaineering holiday, this could be it. an excellent success rate on, partly due to using from most UK airports. a high camp at 4,900m. To round off this short The trip begins with a visit to the Teotihuacan trip, we spend a day sight seeing in Mexico City. EXTENSIONS: GALAPAGOS Pyramids, before an acclimatisation hike We regularly organise cruises to the around the crater lakes to the summit of The volcanoes are very accessible and the Galapagos Islands for either 4 or 8 Nevado de Toluca (4,691m). We then transfer climbing is technically moderate (Scottish additional days. Please contact us to a camp below Iztaccihuatl (or ‘Izta’ as it is Grade 1) in this programme. Therefore team for details of this tailor-made service. known), which is located 50 miles southeast members need to have completed Grade CHIMBORAZO of Mexico City. In Aztec mythology Izta means 1 scrambles and have some crampon and EXTENSION TO ECUADOR ‘sleeping lady’ and different features on the ice axe experience. Our Introductory Winter Volcanoes or Antisana Team mountain are named after various female Mountaineering course in Scotland and our members who wish to stay on in body parts! At 5,260m this extinct volcano Scrambling course in Snowdonia, would Ecuador for an extra three days can is Mexico’s third highest mountain. It is an serve as excellent preparation. attempt to climb the country’s highest immensely interesting peak, with snow, mountain, Chimborazo (6,310m). The 2008 expedition will be led by Mungo Ross. ice, rock and a superb long ridge. The climb is guided at a 1:1 ratio and costs £550. Please indicate on your booking form if you wish to book this extension and you will be invoiced accordingly. Cotopaxi. Photo: Javier Herrera Clarita Luz children, Ecuador. Photo: Javier Herrera Antisana. Photo: Javier Herrera Orizaba, Mexican Volcanoes. Photo: Peter Costello Ecuador Volcanoes. Photo: Thierry Levenq antisana MEXICAN VOLCANOES DATES: Fri 14 Nov – Sat 29 Nov 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Mexico City $3,635 $4,221 £1,675 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £175

NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. The price less tax is shown for comparison.

42/43 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:32 Page 44

Climbing towards the summit of Mount Stanley, Rwenzori. The Elena Hut with Mount Baker in the background. Photo: Thierry Levenq Photo: Alun Richardson The Rest of the World RWENZORI MOUNTAINS DATES: Sun 27 Jan – Mon 11 Feb 2008 Sun 27 Jul – Mon 11 Aug 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Entebbe $4,546 $5,279 £2,095 OPTIONAL SINGLE HOTEL ROOM: £95 EXTENSION: GORILLA TREK You can extend your stay in Uganda by three days to trek deep into the jungle in search of the rare mountain gorillas in Bwindi National Park. Price: £595 (includes accommodation, all food, Ugandan Guide. Challenging rock scrambling. transport, park fees, gorilla permit Photo: Alun Richardson Photo: Thierry Levenq and ranger guide.)

NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. The price less tax is shown for comparison. the rest of the world Rwenzori Mountains Senecio trees, Rwenzori. A unique climbing experience in the fabled ‘Mountains of the Moon’. Photo: Thierry Levenq 5,109m (16,763ft) / 16 Days / Grade 2B This expedition visits the exotic Mountains forest, giant heather, groundsel and lobelia give of the Moon on the Uganda – Congo border the landscape an ‘out of this world’ appearance. and combines the best elements of trekking Five days are set aside to climb the three highest and climbing in the region. The Rwenzori of the snow capped peaks that tower over the mountain range offers one of the most unusual surrounding countryside: Mt Stanley (5,109m), mountaineering experiences on Earth, with Mt Speke (4,890m) and Mt Baker (4,843m). a chance to see some of the unique wildlife The ascents are not technically difficult and birds for which East Africa is world famous. and require only basic mountaineering skills. The trekking route to Mt Stanley leaves the However, the remoteness and difficult trekking cultivated fields of the foothills and passes terrain (often scrambling over wet rock) combine through several distinct zones of vegetation. to make this expedition a challenging and The walking is always varied, as no two days rewarding undertaking. Neal Short will lead are the same during the six-day trek. Thick the July 2008 departure.

44/45 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:33 Page 46

First ascents in East Greenland. Photo: Alun Richardson The Cold Regions GREENLAND ICECAP CROSSING DATES: Sat 19 Apr – Sun 25 May 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Copenhagen $10,839 $12,587 £4,995 OBJECTIVE: Complete East-West, coast-coast the unsupported crossing of Greenland. DISTANCE: 550km ASCENT: 2500m TIMEFRAME: 24-30 days skiing/walking TERRAIN: Icecap gradually trending up or down. Initial ascent and final descent on steeper, crevassed coldregions ground. c.40km on flat land. TEAM MEMBERS: Previous skiing/sled hauling experience not required. High level of endurance, self-motivation and ability Our expeditions to Antarctica include to work as part of a team essential. cruises down to the Antarctic Peninsula, NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional alpine crossings of South Georgia, an if a flight is included. You pay either the full price (from the UK) or the land-only price. ascent of the continent’s highest mountain, The price less tax is shown for comparison. Vinson (see page 19) and ski expeditions to the South Pole.

In Greenland, our Greenland Explorer expeditions target unclimbed peaks, whilst for 2008 we will be Greenland Icecap Crossing making a crossing of the ice cap. A classic crossing of the vast Greenland Icecap – one of the 3 big Polar Expeditions. 37 days / Grade 2D Following the line of the Arctic Circle between This is an expedition to a remote area that Isortoq and Kangerlussuaq, we will attempt a often experiences extreme weather and low ‘full crossing’ of Greenland from coast to coast. temperatures, and thus the inherent risks of Instead of being flown onto the Icecap, we plan such an activity exist. Whilst helicopters can Photo: Alun Richardson Photo: Alun Richardson Greenland Icecap Crossing. Photo: Matt Spenceley to start the expedition at sea level on the East cover medical emergencies, it should be Coast, and finish on the shores of the fjord in understood that periods of bad weather may Kangerlussuaq. prevent successful extraction from the Icecap for days at a time. The expedition involves Travelling by ski, hauling all our equipment in strenuous walking/skiing pulling relatively sleds, the crossing is likely to take around 27 days. heavy loads, and team members should be Starting with heavy loads, we will make our way aware that this is for an extended period of time. up the initial steep slopes onto the icecap, from Team members should also be willing to help where the slopes gradually ascend to the summit, and participate with the day-to-day running before gradually losing height until we reach the of the expedition, including helping to terminus of the ice on the West Coast. Instead of pitch/strike camps and cooking. being picked up there, we will continue on foot to the sea’s edge – the final stage in making a complete crossing of Greenland. 46/47 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:34 Page 48

Pioneering new routes in East Greenland. Photo: Alun Richardson Photo: Alun Richardson The Cold Regions GREENLAND EXPLORER DATES: Sun 30 Mar – Fri 18 Apr 2008 (FULL) Fri 18 Apr – Wed 7 May 2008 PRICES: AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ Keflavik/ Reykjavik $6,792 $7,888 £3,130 ANTARCTIC CLIMBER Greenland Explorer 2007 report DATES: Wed 26 Nov – Thu 11 Dec 2008 Our maiden Greenland Explorer was extremely (16 days) successful. Expedition leader, Alun Richardson wrote: Sat 6 Dec – Mon 22 Dec 2008 (17 days) “The flight to Kulusuk Island was awesome top we spotted many more summits for future PRICES (TAXES INCLUDED): as we had our first glimpse of icebergs stuck trips. A Greenland storm put paid to exploring like sky scrapers in a frozen sea. Kulusuk is a for one day as we experienced the worst side beautiful conglomeration of colourful buildings of the Arctic weather. and is a hunting and fishing base, as well as “After the storm we moved camp and towed having the east coast’s main airport. It gave our sledges over a col onto a new glacier wonderful views of the mountains we were system, where we survived yet another raging to explore as we sorted out gear and loaded TYPE:CABIN DECK: FACILITIES: Joining in days: London 16 Joining in days: London 17 storm and lots of snow – a wild experience! the dog sleds, accompanied by the excited Kulusuk was 12km away so we went back for Tr Main Sh FULL FULL yelping of the husky dogs. Greenland Explorer some R&R and from the settlement we used Tw Main Sh FULL FULL “The following day we skied across the dogs to tow us out across the sea ice and Tw Main Pr FULL FULL An expedition deep into the frozen mountains sea ice – a surreal experience as you pass climb two beautiful peaks. It was a fantastic MS U/Capt Pr FULL FULL of Arctic Greenland. icebergs and small islands – to our first camp experience to speed across the frozen sea S Capt Pr FULL FULL 2,000m (6,560ft) / 20 Days / Grade 3B on a nearby island 20 to 25 km from the towed by dogs. We followed this by climbing Key: Tr – Triple U/Capt – Upper/ settlement. A lot of snow had fallen so we a new route on the highest peak on Kulusuk Tw – Twin Captain’s Amidst one of the least explored Each day will often end under of all difficulties via snow slopes, decided to base ourselves here for a few Island (‘Talisker Ridge’ – Grade Alpine PD) MS – Mini Suite Capt – Captain’s lands on Earth, many of the the most stunning displays of gullies and mixed alpine ground. days to climb some beautiful looking peaks and ascended a smaller peak right on the S – Suite Sh – Shared mountains and glaciers making the Aurora Borealis. Pr – Private Places are available to reminiscent of Torridon in Scotland. We had coast, with wonderful views over the sea ice. up the vast range that runs the OPTIONAL SINGLE The team flies to Reykjavik in mountaineers who have a shake down day, built walls around our length of East Greenland lie “Despite the weather, which was apparently HOTEL ROOM: Iceland before taking a further previous expedition experience tents and spied out our objectives. untouched. This expedition the worst for a long time (it is usually stable £175 flight by propeller plane across and have climbed Alpine Grade aims to explore, climb new “Snowfall was to be an issue over the next and clear), everyone had a great time the Denmark Strait to Greenland. PD or equivalent. You do not routes and make first ascents few days, but it did not stop us climbing achieving some fantastic summits that gave us From a remote Inuit village, we have to be a good skier to join NOTE: in the Schweizerland Alps, two excellent new peaks. From the top all some of the most memorable views we have UK law requires the full price to include travel by ski across frozen fjords, this trip, as the skiing is mainly all airline taxes, as these are not optional towards the southern end of of the second peak we spotted a beautiful ever had. The views brought gasps and smiles assisted by the local Inuit and walking on skis with skins. if a flight is included. You pay either the full the chain. With quick access looking summit on a nearby island, but we and even the odd tear from one or two people. price (from the UK) or the land-only price. their dog sleds. Our team will be The price less tax is shown for comparison. onto the glaciers, no altitude Dave Walsh will be leading had to explore the sea ice and the approach completely self sufficient and “This is the perfect trip for those with an problems and long hours of both of our expeditions in first. The day after our reconnaissance we have ten days to explore from exploratory bent, with so many easily accessible daylight, the conditions should 2008, the first of which is ascended the best peak of the trip – a beautiful Base Camps on the glaciers, peaks to discover and new valleys to explore, be perfect for an action-packed already fully booked. mountain overlooking the sea to Ammassilik tackling alpine scale peaks all in a wild and remote environment.” and rewarding trip. Island and the Greenland Ice Cap. From the

Antarctic Climber Humpback Whale. Photo: Kevin Dempsey Antarctic Climber. Photo: Kevin Dempsey A voyage across the Drake Passage to climb on the Antarctic Peninsula. 16 or 17 Days / Grade 1A This is a superb opportunity to ice continent. The Antarctic The cruise can accommodate Sterling prices per person from visit Antarctica, involving a cruise Peninsula is a spectacular region climbers of most levels of ability, the UK include international down the Antarctic Peninsula of mountains, glaciers, wildlife strong walkers and those who flights to Ushuaia (inc. all taxes), with short, exciting forays into and icebergs. Our ship, the Polar just want to see the stunning hotel accommodation in the mountains. Jagged Globe Pioneer, stops at a number of landscapes and wildlife. The Buenos Aires and Ushuaia offers this expedition in locations, where we can go climbs undertaken are normally on a twin sharing basis and conjunction with our Australian ashore in inflatable Zodiacs, straightforward ascents on snow all transfers. Please note that partners, Aurora Expeditions. climb nearby peaks or just take requiring previous crampon and Triple and Twin berths on the time to look at the seals, whales ice axe experience on Scottish ship regularly sell out more The trip starts with a voyage and penguins! The crew of the grade 1 terrain. than 12 months in advance from South America, through the ship include experienced guides of the expedition. Beagle Channel and across the and leaders who accompany notorious Drake Passage to the the climbers.

48/49 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:35 Page 50

Descending the serac barrier after a successful summit of Cho Oyu. the Photo: Neal Short Professionally led expeditions to the world’s highest mountains.

metre Summit day on Cho Oyu. Photo: Neal Short Cho Oyu summit. Photo: Neal Short Janet Pickett with Dawa Tenzing. Photo: Neal Short 8000 peaks

Simon Lowe and Steve Bell ample oxygen, ample Sherpa relatively quickly to the top and intimate support and safety first climbed on Everest in 1988, support, ample tentage, ample back, and speed has a huge that is expected of them when attempting the West Ridge, the communications and ample benefit to safety. guiding in a more traditional longest and one of the hardest food, combined together under setting. We believe that talk of To get this amount of oxygen routes on the mountain. Since competent, experienced ‘guiding’ on Everest is misleading to the right camps on the then they have been on and leadership. and undervalues the important mountain, you must have ample organised seventeen Everest role and responsibility each There is one thing that is obvious Sherpa support. Experience has expeditions and a total of climber has in being the author when comparing our expedition shown that this should not be less forty-seven expeditions to of his or her own success on organisation with others – if you than one Sherpa per climber on 8,000 metre peaks. Being 8,000 the mountain. Such expeditions don’t pay for something, you Everest and at least one Sherpa metre climbers, they know the also attract people that we think will not get it. Not only will this for every two climbers on Cho effect of detailed planning and may be tackling Everest, or the mean you may not get to the Oyu and Shishapangma. Having of using the most up-to-date other high peaks, too soon in top, but you may be significantly too few Sherpas is tantamount to equipment on your chances their mountaineering careers. compromised in terms of safety, having too little oxygen or too of getting to the top. Our 8,000 metre expeditions to an extent that cannot be few tents and too little food, as it are not ‘guided’, therefore, but There are many statistics justified. This is especially so on is impossible to stock the camps rather professionally-led teams bandied about concerning trips that sell Everest without or with ample provisions without of climbers who have built up climbing at 8,000 metres. with too little oxygen. In fact, them. To ensure that you have their experience climbing on Most of these suggest a very it is probably safer to have no enough oxygen on summit day, ever higher peaks until they feel high degree of risk, and no oxygen at all, as most climbers each climber must have one confident to tackle the world’s one should attempt going will not then get to 8,000 metres Sherpa climbing in support. giants. On our trips, you will be above 8,000 metres without first whereas having some, but too On the other hand, some with like-minded mountaineers, realising the significant danger little, guarantees running out organisers promise stuff capable of climbing together that it poses. In organising our perilously close to the top,with far beyond what is needed or with a Sherpa to forge your trips, we use our experience no prospect of making a safe realistically for competent own route to the summits, to tackle these risks, so that, descent before dark enfolds such climbers to reach the summit. all the time climbing with and overwhelmingly, the most likely unwitting victims. We aim to have For instance, we believe it benefiting from the experience, outcome is that you will reach ample oxygen to maintain good is fanciful to describe any leadership and decision making the top, and descend to Base flow rates, not only in ascent but, commercial operation to of the team leader. Camp safely. To achieve this, almost as importantly, in descent. Everest as ‘guided’, as a it is essential that we supply This will ensure you climb guide cannot offer the

Here is a selection of leaders who are involved in our 8,000m Peak programme. Robert Mads Anderson Neal Short David Hamilton Lydia Bradey Adele Pennington Tomaz Jakofcic John Eames New Yorker, Robert Anderson, was One of our most highly regarded leaders, David Hamilton is undoubtedly Britain’s Lydia was the first Australasian woman to Jagged Globe Head of Operations, Tomaz is one of the most accomplished John has been climbing since 1970 and a member of a four man team that Neal is an outstanding alpinist, having most experienced high-altitude leader. summit an 8,000m peak in 1987 with her Adele Pennington, has amassed a Alpinists in the world today. An IFMGA has led expeditions for Jagged Globe succeeded on the 12,000ft Kangshung soloed Ama Dablam and Aconcagua He has led over 17 expeditions to ascent of Gasherbrum II. The following formidable number of mountaineering Guide hailing from Slovenia, his ascents for the last 10 years. He has extensive Face of Everest in 1988. He has been on and climbed test-pieces such as Denali’s mountains higher than 7,500m, including year, she became the first woman to climb summits over the past ten years, including in the Himalayas include the NE Ridge Himalayan mountaineering experience, ten expeditions to Everest, including a solo West Rib and the Bonatti Pillar. Over the last successful Jagged Globe expeditions to Everest without the use of supplementary cold mountains such as Vinson, Denali and of Dhaulagiri (8,167m), alpine-style new which includes first ascents with Jagged winter attempt. Robert led our 2003 Everest few years, Neal has led twelve expeditions Gasherbrum II, Shishapangma and Everest oxygen. She has been to Cho Oyu twice Ama Dablam in winter. In 2007, she led our routes on Gyachung Kang (7,952 m) and Globe teams in Northern India and Golden Jubilee Expedition, reaching the for Jagged Globe. He was a leader on (both north and south sides). In 2008, and climbed high on K2. Lydia works as Shishapangma expedition, which reached Siguang Ri (7,308m) and the first alpine ascents of Muztag Ata and, in 2005, Cho summit with Sibusiso Vilane – the first Black Everest’s North Ridge in 2005, summiting David will be leading Jagged Globe a guide in New Zealand, and has led Camp 2 before bad weather shut down style ascent of ‘Eternal Flame’ on the Oyu. John is a Telemark and Nordic Ski African to climb the mountain. Robert has with Jens Bojen – the oldest Briton to reach teams on Everest and Gasherbrum II. expeditions for Jagged Globe to most teams on the mountain. Adele took Trango Tower in the Karakoram. He will Instructor, running courses in the Alps each also led expeditions for Jagged Globe to the top. In 2007, he was one of the few Aconcagua, Huascaran and Alpamayo. advantage of her acclimatisation and be leading for us on Cho Oyu in 2008. winter with his partner, Bonny Masson. Antarctica and Shishapangma. leaders on Cho Oyu to get his team to She will be assisting David Hamilton on managed to summit Cho Oyu at the the summit in a particularly difficult season. Everest in 2008. very end of the season.

50/51 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:36 Page 52

Gasherbrum II The 8000m Cho Oyu The most attainable 8,000m Peak in the Karakoram. The sixth highest mountain in the world and the most frequently climbed 8,000er. 8,035m (26,361ft) / 51 Days / Grade 4E Peaks 8,201m (26,906ft) / 44 Days / Grade 4E The great 8,000m Peaks of in gloriously exposed the Karakoram – K2, Broad situation, but without any CHO OYU This expedition is an excellent Of the thirteen expeditions the climb is a serious Oyu Base Camp, below the Increasingly, some climbers Peak and Gasherbrums I and great difficulty to the summit. opportunity for climbers to that we have organised, undertaking and demands north west face. The route choose to use oxygen on DATES: II – all straddle the Pakistan – With reasonable snow extend their experience to eleven have put climbers on the fitness, mountaineering skill above Base Camp consists summit day, which we are Sat 23 Aug – Sun 5 Oct 2008 China border within a mere conditions, the summit day extreme altitudes and is highly summit, making Jagged Globe and self-sufficiency from those mainly of low-angled snow able to provide if required. PRICES: 15 miles of each other. By usually involves 8-10 hours of recommended as a first 8,000m by far the most experienced considering it. slopes up to 30° with one Our expeditions include one AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ far the least difficult of these ascent. After the climb, the Peak, or as a stepping-stone and successful British operation short but very steep section climbing Sherpa for every Kathmandu We fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa climbs is Gasherbrum II. team crosses the Ghondokoro to an attempt on Everest. The on Cho Oyu. In 2007, we were to bypass a sérac barrier at two team members and an $16,264 $18,887 £7,495 and spend a few days exploring In most years, its summit is La (5,585m) for a rapid but comparative ease of access, one of the few teams to summit 6,400m. We use three camps extremely comfortable and the ancient Tibetan capital, reached by more people exciting exit to the roadhead. OPTIONAL SINGLE lack of objective dangers and in what was a particularly poor on the mountain, the highest well-stocked Base Camp. taking time to let our bodies than all the other Karakoram HOTEL ROOM: generally uncomplicated terrain weather season. Strong Sherpas, at 7,500m is the launch pad for Three of our previous £145 acclimatise, before driving At the time of print, places 8,000ers put together. makes Cho Oyu the most strong tents, ample supplies the summit, which is reached expeditions have summited, across the Tibetan Plateau to are limited on our 2008 attainable of the world’s above advance Base Camp, in 5 to 8 hours under normal Gasherbrum II with our teams frequently Chinese Base Camp. From here, expedition. GASHERBRUM II highest mountains. experienced leadership and conditions. provides a more complete being the first to get we load up Yaks and trek to Cho a tenacious team won the day. mountaineering experience established on the mountain DATES: However, like all 8,000m Peaks, than its Tibetan peers, with and open the route. This has Sat 7 Jun – Sun 27 Jul 2008 even the walk-in to Base given us the advantage of the PRICES: Camp being described as best campsites and more time AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ ‘the best trek in the world’. to complete the climb. Our Islamabad Above Base Camp, a long regular team of experienced $15,082 $17,514 £6,950 icefall is negotiated before Pakistani high-altitude porters OPTIONAL SINGLE the main climb, which follows will be with us on Gasherbrum HOTEL ROOM: a route on 35-45° snow in II in 2008. The expedition £165 a stunning situation, with leader is David Hamilton. technical difficulties of SHISHAPANGMA Alpine AD encountered on Trek in with some sections. Three camps the team! DATES: are used above Base Camp, Sat 23 Aug – Sun 5 Oct 2008 In 2008 we are offering the highest being at 7,050m. PRICES: the opportunity to trek to From Camp 3 the route AUS $ NZ $ LAND ONLY £ continues up the SW ridge Gasherbrum II Base Camp Kathmandu to 7,400m, from where a long with our expedition climbing $16,264 $18,887 £7,495 team, then continuing to K2 rising diagonal traverse on OPTIONAL SINGLE snow leads below the summit Base Camp – see page 34 for details. HOTEL ROOM: pyramid to join the east ridge £145 at 7,750m. This is then followed

NOTE: UK law requires the full price to include all airline taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. You pay either the full Shishapangma price (from the UK) or the land-only price. The price less tax is shown for comparison. One of the most straightforward of the 8,000ers and the world’s 14th highest peak. 8,027m (26,335ft) / 44 Days / Grade 4E Many climbers regard which give access to the base Shishapangma as being the of the summit ridge, where we least difficult of the fourteen place a third camp at around 8,000m peaks, despite it being 7,400m. Summit day takes us the last of the 8,000m peaks directly up the ridge above, to have been climbed. It is in a spectacular position, less popular than Cho Oyu, culminating in the West so is particularly attractive for Summit (8,008m). The Central those who wish to try a quieter Summit is about 500m along 8,000er. The climbing is a knife-edge ridge to the right, nowhere steep, although the which we will attempt if the extreme hardship of climbing weather and snow conditions at such an altitude cannot be are stable. As Shishapangma over-stressed. sits just to the north of the main Himalayan chain, The route follows a glacier to the views from the top are Camps 1 and 2, with slopes particularly impressive. up to 30° in between, with some minor crevassing. You can expect the same level

Cho Oyu 2007 summiteers: Back row – James Balfour, Anselm Murphy, Pasang. Beyond Camp 2 the glacier of support on Shishapangma Sitting down – Dawa, Janet Pickett & Mark Campbell. Ian Spalding summited is almost horizontal as we as on our Cho Oyu expedition, shortly afterwards, so missed the photo! Photo: Neal Short enter a large cwm, with the from our strong Sherpa team impressive summit pyramid (one Sherpa per two team of Shishapangma on the right. members), to high quality This leads to steeper slopes, equipment and food.

52/53 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:39 Page 54

Simon Tom Stephanie the people of jagged globe

The Jagged Globe Staff Welfare and Australia &

Kerry Lisa Nathalie Office Team Porter Protection New Zealand Jagged Globe is a small, dedicated equipment matters. Adele Pennington, who We owe a great deal to the efforts of the From his base in Australia, Jagged Globe organisation which is 100% committed to has considerable expedition experience, local staff in the countries we visit and founder, Steve Bell (IFMGA) advises climbers in providing you with the best service in the is in charge of Operations and can advise acknowledge the vital contribution they Australia and New Zealand. Steve also guides Kit Spencer – Dr. David Hillebrandt mountain business. Our office team are all you about the suitability of a particular make to the success of our trips. When for our New Zealand partners, Aspiring Guides active walkers and climbers, who regularly expedition and your future trekking or appointing agents, we look for them to prove www.aspiringguides.com and was the Our man in Nepal – Medical Advisor An ex-Ghurka officer, Dr David Hillebrandt is Jagged Adele Matt Pauline take part in or lead our expeditions and treks. climbing. She continues to lead trips that they have a positive and caring policy architect of the Victoria Police Forces’s overseas, as well as instructing in Scotland. towards the employment of local staff. Our successful Everest expedition. If you are based fluent Nepali speaker and Globe’s medical advisor. An At the hub of our office are Stephanie The UK-based Directors are Simon Lowe and leaders, who take overall responsibility for the in his quarter of the globe, Steve will be very accomplished mountaineer, active mountaineer based in Hopkinson, Kerry Cooper and Natalie Kit Spencer represents Jagged North Devon, David combines his Tom Briggs. As experienced mountaineers, running of the trip, ensure that porters and happy to hear from you. Globe in Nepal. His hard-working professional expertise with a Hawthorn. Between them, they have climbed they would also be very pleased to discuss camp staff are adequately equipped for the in the Alps and joined our teams in Ecuador, Jagged Globe team of Sherpas and camp passion for climbing in remote your aspirations, as well as help you prepare task. In Nepal, we make a contribution to a staff help make our expeditions locations, so he is familiar with Nepal and India. They are responsible for PO Box 266, Warrandyte, for your forthcoming trip. Finally, Pauline Lowe staff welfare fund. The purpose of this fund is unforgettable experiences. Kit has the medical issues that your reservation and can answer questions assists with our accounts. Pauline has trekked to pay for any medical treatment needed by Victoria VIC 3113 lived in Nepal for over 10 years. expedition members face. about your booking, flights, insurance, in Bolivia and India. Our UK offices are based our staff and their families and to pay them if Tel: +61 424 036 794 “Mountaineering in Nepal is quite For example, he advises climbers accommodation and travel. Lisa Newton in Sheffield on the edge of the Peak District. they are unable to work for medical reasons. different from climbing in many about the effects of altitude on provides other essential administrative Fax: +61 398 445 815 You are very welcome to call in to meet us, Email: [email protected] parts of the world, the scale of known medical conditions. He support on a part-time basis. Matt Parkes but it is worth calling ahead to ensure that In addition, we support and apply the the place is huge, the culture of also instructs our leaders and is a keen alpine climber and one of our the best person to talk to will be available. guidelines of several charity organisations, the Nepali people is fascinating guides in aspects of remote-area operations staff, who deals with all including the International Porter Protection and they are so generous with medicine, making a valuable Group (IPPG) www.ippg.net their friendship. I can’t imagine contribution to their effectiveness ever leaving here.” in the field. Kit Spencer

Our Leaders Qualified to Lead On a Jagged Globe expedition or trek, leaders are carefully selected for their The great majority of our leaders are members However, possession of a qualification alone they were visiting, and a good understanding you can be sure of being led by the best appropriate experience, leadership skills of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors does not qualify a person to lead one of our and appreciation for the local culture, and most professional leaders in the business. and personal aptitude. The majority of (AMI) or British Mountain Guides (BMG). While expeditions or treks. A Mountain Guide with customs, flora and fauna. leaders on our mountaineering expeditions there is no legal requirement for our leaders many years’ experience in the Alps would not We consider high quality leadership to be a vital are qualified mountain guides or instructors to have qualifications (except in the Alps), the be appointed to lead a high-altitude expedition component of any trip, whether it is to climb an and all are qualified in mountain first aid. training and experience gained whilst qualifying without a proven track record at those altitudes. 8,000m peak or simply to trek to its base. Our trip contributes greatly to the success and enjoyment Similarly, a trek leader would need recent, of our expeditions. first-hand experience of the country that Here is a selection of our leaders:

Simon Lowe Javier Herrera Ed Chard Steve Bell Andy Chapman Dave Walsh Paul Donovan Mac Mackay Simon is the Managing Director Javier represented his country An MIC, Ed has been an outdoor Steve is the founder and Chairman Andy Chapman has led Jagged An experienced high-altitude Paul is a qualified teacher, Born in Inverness, Scotland, of Jagged Globe. He has led and in cycle racing before he took instructor for the past 10 years of Jagged Globe. He led Britain’s Globe expeditions since 1998, climber, Dave has led many of our part-time inspector for the Mac Mackay is the current taken part in many high-altitude up mountaineering and is now and has led many expeditions first guided expedition to an when he was an assistant on our expeditions including a successful Adventure Activities Licensing President of the British Mountain climbing expeditions, ranging our head guide in Ecuador, in Asia, Africa, South America, 8,000m peak and was the first first Tien Shan expedition to climb Everest expedition. He completed Authority (AALA) and Guides. He is a regular Course across the Americas, Africa and managing Jagged Globe and North America and Europe. Briton to lead clients to the summit Khan Tengri. Following two winters all Seven Continental Summits and Adventureworks Regional Director on Jagged Globe Alpine the Greater Himalaya. He has been Adventureworks programmes. These include Jagged Globe of Everest. An IFMGA mountain in Antarctica working for the British most recently, has led expeditions Coordinator. For Jagged Globe, Courses and Scottish Winter to Everest three times, including He has led Jagged Globe expeditions to Mera Peak, guide, he has climbed all of the Antarctic Survey (BAS), Andy has to Kilimanjaro, The North Col of Paul has led successful treks to Courses and usually leads an leadership of our successful 1996 expeditions further afield including Khumbu Climber, Mera and Island Seven Continental Summits and led expeditions to Lhakpa Ri, Everest, Antarctica, Mongolia and Everest Base Camp and ascents expedition for us each year. expedition, which climbed the Cho Oyu, Mera and Island Peak, Peak, Stok Kangri, Huascaran and compiled the multi-authored Aconcagua, Ecuador Volcanoes, Uganda. Dave is an IFMGA guide of Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua and Mac is a ski teacher (ISIA) North Ridge and has organised Gasherbrum II and the High Alpamayo. He is also a regular ‘Seven Summits’, a book that Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Mera and and directs our Rock Climbing and Lhakpa Ri and The North Col. who also holds Alpine/Nordic twelve expeditions to the mountain, Passes to Everest. leader on our Adventureworks describes the quest to climb them. Island Peak, Alpamayo and Scottish Winter Course programmes. qualifications (DSV/BASI). most recently the Caudwell Xtreme schools expeditions. Huascaran. Everest expedition.

Bonny Masson Ian Barker Nev Taylor Mungo Ross Alun Richardson Caroline Ogden Mic Rofe Chris Groves A highly professional leader Ian has been working in the Nev climbed with Jagged Globe Mungo continues to hold the Alun is an IFMGA guide, who Caroline is based on Anglesey Mic became involved with Chris is a qualified teacher and and experienced instructor, Outdoor Pursuits and Development Managing Director, Simon Lowe record for having led most Jagged runs his own outdoor company, in Wales, but grew up in New Jagged Globe in 2004 when deputy manager of an outdoor Bonny has led numerous treks and Training industry for over 25 years. on Everest way back in 1988. Globe expeditions, currently 23! based in Pembrokeshire. He has Zealand. An IFMGA guide through he joined a leader training centre in the Peak District. He is expeditions to the Himalaya, most He is a qualified Mountaineering He continues to climb at a high Expeditions include numerous in his led expeditions for Jagged Globe the New Zealand Guide Scheme, expedition to Ama Dablam. also a determined mountaineer, with recently, Nubra Summits, K2 Base Instructor (MIC) and has led standard, having recently ticked favourite destination, Nepal, as well to Greenland, Ecuador, Peru, the she has climbed extensively in He has since led expeditions personal climbs including a summit Camp Trek, Everest Base Camp expeditions to Nepal, Tanzania, off the Walker Spur on the North as Kilimanjaro, Huascaran, Ecuador Tien Shan, Nepal, India, Tanzania Europe, USA, Australia and India for us to Huascaran, Lhakpa of Pik Lenin (7,134m) in Kyrgyzstan. Trek, Lhakpa Ri and Altai Climber. Ecuador, Mexico, Bolivia, Argentina Face of the Grand Jorasses. Volcanoes, Muztag Ata, Stok Kangri, and Uganda. Alun is also a and is a regular guide on our Ri, Mera and Island Peak and Chris has led expeditions to She spends the winter teaching and Antarctica. His own personal Nev has led many expeditions for Bolivian Climber and Cathedral talented photographer and writer, summer Alpine Courses. Caroline Bolivian Climber. Mic is based Kilimanjaro, Mont Kenya, Aconcagua, Telemark skiing in Italy with her climbing has taken him as far Jagged Globe, including Khumbu Peak. Mungo is also a qualified and has a new book out in 2008 – will be leading our 2008 Ama in the Blue Mountains, Australia, Cotopaxi, Alaska, Northern India, partner, John Eames. They both afield as India, Afghanistan, Climber, Mera and Island Peak, MIC and works on our Scottish ‘Mountaineering: The Essential Skills Dablam expedition. where he works as a climbing Nepal and Tibet. In 2008, he will be regularly run pre-expedition Peru, Chile and Spitsbergen. Muztag Ata, Stok Kangri, Barunste Winter Courses each season. for Mountain Walkers and Climbers’. and canyoning instructor when leading expeditions for us including weekends in North Wales. and Bolivian Climber. he is not away on expeditions. Lhakpa Ri & The North Col.

54/55 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:39 Page 56 important information booking form

If you are interested in joining one of You may want to pay by credit card as this usually confers and Bolivian Climber). The team size for most trips You can use this form to book your trip or you can book online at www.jagged-globe.co.uk our expeditions or treks, we recommend additional consumer protection, in accordance with the is usually no more than 12 but this increases to 14 on terms and conditions of your card. If you do use a credit some treks. Certain expeditions have places limited that you telephone us to discuss the trip’s card, a 2% charge will be added to the amount being to nine. This is indicated in the trip itinerary. Please refer to Booking Conditions on pages 58-59. suitability for you and to ensure that places paid (not including deposits) to cover the cost imposed by the bank to process the payment. are still available on it. Please read the Will the trip run? Please reserve me place(s) on your trip entitled (Date)Starting On following information very carefully: The balance of the trip cost is due no later than 60 days The vast majority of our trips do go ahead as planned. prior to departure (90 days for Denali and all Antarctic trips). If a trip receives less than four bookings, it is usually All-inclusive pricing cancelled. This decision is taken no later than 30 days Personal Details – Participant 1 prior to the trip’s departure and members are informed UK law now requires the full price to include all airline Travel insurance immediately. We may ask you to consider transferring taxes, as these are not optional if a flight is included. To be adequately protected in terms of insurance, you to another trip on similar dates, or will refund you in full. Surname Initials Forename(As it appears on your passport) Title Nationality Of the prices we show for each trip, you pay either the will need specialist travel insurance for participation in full price (from the UK) or the land-only price (joining the hazardous activities described in your trip itinerary. Passport Number Place of issue Date of issue Expiry Date in the destination country). The price less tax is shown, We provide travel insurance suitable for all of the activities Acclimatising to high altitude so you can compare our prices with other organisations, described in our brochures, or shown on our website Jagged Globe Insurance. Yes No We are experts at operating at high-altitude. Every trip we (If ‘No’, evidence of appropriate insurance must be provided)Special Dietary needs who for whatever reason do not include these taxes. as part of our published itineraries. Our insurance is run has a realistic acclimatisation programme. This could competitively priced and is available for a single trip, involve an acclimatisation trek before a climb, or crossing Please tick box if you are joining the trip on a ‘land only’ basis If UK regional departures are available, where do you wish to fly from? What the price includes: or to provide cover for several trips taken throughout the several high passes during a trek in order to fulfil the maxim year. The schedule of cover and the premiums are shown ‘climb high, sleep low.’ Acclimatising takes time and there Date of birth Occupation Email • Economy class return airfares from on a separate insert, and are also available on our are no safe shortcuts. All trips to altitudes in excess of 3,000 the UK (unless otherwise specified) website. You can buy your insurance when you book, metres carry medicines essential to the treatment of altitude • UK and foreign airport taxes Next of kin: Name Relationship Telephone No either online or otherwise, or at any time after that by illness, and our leaders are trained to administer them and • All internal flights and hotel/airport transfers contacting the office or again by going on line. Some to know the symptoms. Where necessary, trips have a • Good standard hotel accommodation (usually other insurance policies demand that you seek their prior portable hyperbaric chamber and supplementary oxygen. 3 star), in major cities on a bed & breakfast basis authorisation before arranging any medical assistance Personal Details – Participant 2 when overseas. Obviously, even with modern • Best available hotels in outlying towns, communications, it may not be possible to contact the Food usually on a full-board basis UK before it becomes medically expedient to organise All food on our treks and on expeditions to peaks up to Surname Initials Forename(As it appears on your passport) Title Nationality • All road transport by private vehicles a recovery from a remote mountain location. If you buy 7,000 metres, is locally purchased and cooked by local Passport Number Place of issue Date of issue Expiry Date • All camping facilities & meals during the trip insurance elsewhere, make sure that your insurer will agree staff accompanying the trip. For higher peaks and Ama • All porterage costs to pay for any potential rescue or medical recovery without Dablam, we send out food from the UK to supplement the Jagged Globe Insurance. Yes No (If ‘No’, evidence of appropriate insurance must be provided)Special Dietary needs • All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers the need to get their authorisation beforehand. Base Camp food and for use at high altitude. If camping on the mountain, above the snowline, you may be required • Sightseeing tours where specified Please tick box if you are joining the trip on a ‘land only’ basis If UK regional departures are available, where do you wish to fly from? to do some cooking yourself, and this will definitely be the • National park fees and permits (excluding Denali) Jagged Globe team case for 8,000 metre ascents. Please tell us when you book, Date of birth Occupation Email • Jagged Globe kitbag or fleece member’s account or at any time after that, if you have a special diet. We will If you have Internet access and an email address, you then ensure our staff in the destination country know about Next of kin: Name Relationship Telephone No What the price may complete your experience questionnaire, medical this and cater accordingly. If necessary, we will send does not include: declaration and hire equipment request form in your additional food from the UK to ensure your dietary needs Jagged Globe Team Member’s Account, on a secure are not compromised by the possible limitations of local • Visa fees part of our website (login is sent to you via email). supply, but please ensure we have ample time to plan, Additions • Bar bills and laundry buy and freight food accordingly. • Travel insurance Optional single room Please tick box if you require additional hotel accommodation Which extra nights do you require? • Lunch and evening meals in major cities Equipment If you are joining a trip on your own, you will share a hotel • Optional trips room with someone of the same sex. If you want to pay You will need to provide your own clothing and personal Please tick box if you require a single room(supplement payable) • Tips for single use of a room (only available in main cities), equipment, such as boots, crampons and an adequate please tick the box on the Booking Form, and you will sleeping bag, as listed in your Trip Dossier. We provide I enclose a deposit (£300 per person) of: £ for person(s). Plus insurance of: £ for Total: person(s). £ When to book be invoiced accordingly. all group equipment. Members of all Jagged Globe Expeditions, Treks and *Deposits for expeditions are £300 except for Denali and Carstensz Pyramid – £800 per person, Antarctic Climber – £950 per person, We recommend that you book as soon as you are sure Courses are entitled to a 15% discount* in any Cotswold which trip you want to do, but preferably no less than 12 Joining abroad – ‘land only’ 8,000m Peaks (excluding Everest) – £800 per person, Everest – US$2,000 per person and Vinson Massif – US$5,000 per person. Outdoor store. You can take advantage of this benefit weeks before the due departure date although, even with You can join our trips in the destination country and distinct until your trip departs. hours to spare, we will always try to get you on the trip you ‘land only’ prices are given for each trip in this brochure. want to do. If you book too late we may no longer be If required, please tick the ‘land-only’ box on the Booking www.cotswoldoutdoor.com Payment holding one of the flight reservations made for your trip, Form. Please note that when booking on a land only basis, *Excluding sale items, books and maps. as it may have been handed back to the airline. Under we are not responsible for any costs incurred before joining these circumstances, we will buy a new ticket for you, the trip, because of changes to the itinerary. I enclose a cheque for £ payable to Jagged Globe or, alternatively, please debit my but this may entail an additional cost. Personal equipment hire Flight reservations, alterations Certain items of specialist equipment are available (There is a 2% surcharge If using a credit card – not applicable to debit cards or cheques.) Booking procedure for hire from us, which saves you considerable and points of departures expense if you do not already own them. Card Number Security Code Valid From / Expires / (Switch Only)Issue No You can book a trip securely online at For most trips, we reserve international, scheduled All prices are inclusive of VAT. www.jagged-globe.co.uk, over the telephone or by Tick box to have your balance automatically debited using the same card, on the due date completing and returning the Booking Form on page 57. economy flights for the group, usually departing from • 4/5 season sleeping bag £65 London Heathrow or London Gatwick. We can also buy Rab Ladakh 1000 or similar We require a £300 deposit for all trips except the following Cardholder’s Signature______Date ______which have higher deposits: Denali, Carstensz Pyramid and an additional flight for you to go from a regional airport in the UK to join the group flight departing from London. • 5 season sleeping bag £120 8,000m peaks (excluding Everest) £800; Antarctic Climber Rab Expedition 1100 or similar £950; Vinson $5,000; Everest $2,000. At the same time you Some airlines offer departures from UK regional airports (Sleeping bags include a new should pay your insurance premium, if you want to buy Declaration as part of their international network, most notably Royal sheet liner, which you keep.) the policy provided by us. We will then confirm your place Dutch Airlines (KLM). KLM design their schedules so that on the trip and send you a Trip Dossier, which contains: • Down jacket £60 flights leaving UK regional airports link in with their long On behalf of the person(s) included on this form I am authorised to make this booking and have read and agree to the Booking Conditions. To the best of my knowledge all haul services flying from Amsterdam. These trips are Rab Andes, ME Annapurna or similar • Visa and permit instructions persons taking out this insurance, and any person on whom the travel plans depend, are in good physical and mental health, know of no circumstances why the holiday is marked as ‘Free regional departures from most UK • Trekking/climbing experience questionnaire • Plastic boots £45 likely to be cancelled or curtailed, and are not travelling against the advice of a medical practitioner or for the purpose of obtaining medical treatment. I understand that airports’. If you want to fly from somewhere other than Scarpa Vega (sizes 5–12) • Medical questionnaire and declaration from London, please show the regional airport of your any medical declarations made to the Company may also be passed to the underwriters if I am taking out insurance cover provided by Jagged Globe. • Vaccination information choice on the booking form. At any time, if there is any • One Sport Everest Boots or Signed______Date ______• An equipment and clothing list other aspect of the flight you want to change, such as the La Sportiva Olympus Mons • Pre-trip meeting details ticket class, routing, date or airline, please inform us in for extreme cold (sizes 8.5–13) • Environmental issues writing, either by email, fax or letter, and we will do our best For Denali, Vinson and 8,000m expeditions £140 Address for Correspondence Postcode to get you precisely the flight you want. Please remember, For Everest £195 no changes to an existing flight reservation can be made Credit Card billing address • Ice axe (55–65 cm) £15 How to pay without our receiving a written request from you. (if different) Postcode We prefer to receive payment by debit card or cheque but • Crampons, step-in, fully adjustable £15 you may pay by any lawful means, as long as the money Team composition and sizes • Climbing helmet £10 Telephone No.(Daytime) Telephone No.(Evenings) Fax No. we receive into our account is equal to the amount you owe. This means, if you are paying by bank transfer, for All of our trips are led by experienced Jagged Globe • Climbing harness £10 leaders. The leader is usually supported by either local example, you must tell your bank that you want to pay Our equipment stocks are limited so please reserve Please complete all relevant sections of this form and return it to: Jagged Globe, The Foundry Studios, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield, S3 8EN, UK guides or Sherpas (depending on the group size and the fees that occur at both ends of the transaction, i.e. your requirements as soon as you know what you where you are in the world). Porters assist with load the charges when the payment leaves your account need. Payment for hired equipment needs to reach and the charges when it arrives in ours. carrying on all trips in Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan and India, and on selected trips elsewhere (Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua us at the same time as the final balance for your trip. 56/57 www.jagged-globe.co.uk V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:39 Page 58

28. We receive regular Travel Advice from the UK Foreign 34. Anyone booked onto an expedition cancelled by The independently as part of an extension. You must ensure Office (FO). We will not knowingly operate expeditions Company will be entitled to a full refund. Anyone on you have adequate cover for search, helicopter rescue in contravention of such advice if it is published before such an expedition will be invited to transfer to another and repatriation in the event of a medical emergency. the due start date of an expedition. expedition and no transfer fee will be payable. Should Your travel insurance provider must agree beforehand booking conditions you transfer to another expedition any difference in to meet the costs of any search, rescue or recovery, 29. We will cancel an expedition if the FO Advice effectively puts the destination country or significant parts of the price will be invoiced or credited accordingly. for medical reasons, of you to the nearest appropriate country out of bounds such as to make the principal 35. Most of our expeditions (including treks) involve going medical facility even if prior authorisation from the Please read the following booking conditions 12. To book a place, complete, sign and date the Booking Less than 14 days before objective untenable. If the principal objective remains to high-altitude and carry an inherent risk of altitude insurer may not be possible due to the remoteness of very carefully. Form and post it to The Company with your deposit of the expedition starts. 100% of total trip cost achievable in observance of the FO Advice, we will alter illness. Similarly, most of our trips visit remote locations or the recovery area or because medical expediency demands your recovery before such authorisation 1. All bookings are made with Jagged Globe Limited, £300 per person, per expedition together with the For all 8,000 metre peak the itinerary and the expedition will not be cancelled. poorly developed regions where infrastructure is limited. could be received. Registered Company Number 3069133 (hereinafter premium for your insurance if required. Unless the expeditions, as above, For example, the FO may advise that it is unsafe to In such places, the risks to health are increased and the referred to as The Company) whose registered office expedition is full, you will receive confirmation of except cancellation less traverse an area which lies on the published approach ability to treat injury or illness effectively is reduced. 41. Having made every effort to ensure the correctness is The Foundry Studios, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield booking and an Expedition Dossier. The following than 30 days before trek. In such circumstances, if the objective can be Additionally, climbing and mountaineering, which of this brochure, we cannot be held responsible for S3 8EN, United Kingdom. The Directors of The Company expeditions require a higher deposit: the expedition starts 100% of total trip cost reached by using an alternative route, we will do includes treks that cross glaciated terrain or snow-bound any inaccuracies. so and the trip will not be cancelled. passes, are hazardous activities with a risk of serious are Stephen Bell, Simon Lowe and Tom Briggs. Denali and Carstensz Pyramid £800 per person For Denali, Antarctic Climber, South Georgia Traverse 42. Prices in this brochure are based on costs and injury or death. By signing these booking conditions 2. The air holidays and flights in this brochure are ATOL 8,000 metre Peaks and Vinson Massif, the cancellation charges are: 30. If the FO does not issue unambiguous advice exchange rates as at 01.10.2007. We will do what we you acknowledge these hazards and your acceptance protected, since we hold an Air Travel Organiser’s (excluding Everest) £800 per person against travel, a disinclination to travel on the basis can to mitigate against any rise in our operating costs Date of Cancellation Charge Incurred of the associated risks. Licence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority. of a perceived threat or hazard, howsoever formed, and strive to keep prices fixed. In the unlikely event that Antarctic Climber £950 per person 90 days or more before Our ATOL number is ATOL 4019. In the unlikely event will be interpreted as a voluntary cancellation and 36. Neither The Company nor any of its representatives will surcharges become necessary, the following conditions Everest US$2,000 per person the expedition starts. Loss of deposit of our insolvency, the CAA will ensure that you are the cancellation charges set out in these booking be responsible for any illness, injury or death sustained will apply: not stranded abroad and will arrange to refund any Vinson Massif US$5,000 per person Less than 90 days before conditions will apply. This does not affect your right on our expeditions, nor will they be liable for any a) Surcharges arising directly from a change in the money you have paid to us for an advance booking. 13. Once booked, you must submit ‘online’ or by post the expedition starts. 100% of total trip cost to transfer between expeditions under the terms uninsured loss of personal property. world price of oil and levied by airlines, or agents For further information, visit the ATOL website at a previous experience questionnaire and a medical Similar terms are adopted throughout the travel industry of these booking conditions. 37. Most expeditions have days in the itinerary that are acting for The Company, will be passed on and www.atol.org.uk declaration. After reviewing these, we may advise you and cover the costs of advance payments made by 31. Non-UK Nationals should consult their own government included to provide flexibility in case of bad weather, you will be invoiced accordingly. 3. As a member of the Association of Bonded Travel to transfer to another trip, or to cancel your booking. The Company. Cancellation charges may be covered, for advice on travel to the destination country and all or some other untoward event, and thereby increase the b) If surcharges become necessary for reasons other Organisers Trust Limited (ABTOT) an Association If we do so advise, and if the deposit paid was no in part, by your travel insurance provided the reason countries transited en route. We will not be bound by chance of your principle objective being achieved and than as a direct consequence of a change in the approved by the Department of Trade and Industry, more than £300 per person, you may transfer or cancel, for cancellation falls within the terms of the policy. the advice of such foreign governments, nor will our for the expedition to be successful. If these days are not world price of oil, you may cancel your booking Jagged Globe has provided a Bond to meet the as advised, without penalty as long as the date we 19. After your booking has been confirmed, if you booking conditions be waived, save where such advice needed in order to achieve the aims of the expedition without penalty if the surcharge amounts to more requirements of the Package Travel, Package Holidays received your completed forms is within one month of wish to transfer from one expedition to another, an coincides with the advice of the UK Government, and and the team decides to return from the mountains than 10% of the cost of the Expedition. the date you booked and no later than 2 months before the booking conditions above become effective. early, any additional costs incurred by you and and Package Tour Regulations 1992 in respect of non- administration charge of £60 per person, per booking, 43. The Company’s agents and representatives, other than the due departure date of the trip. If we receive your associated with extra hotel nights, or services that would flight inclusive packages only. This gives UK residents will be payable. At the same time, you must pay any 32. Team sizes described in this brochure are target sizes a Director of The Company, are not entitled to promise forms outside of these time limits, no matter when you not otherwise have been provided nor were given in the full protection in the unlikely event of our insolvency. costs that we have incurred in respect of your booking, and may be increased or decreased at the discretion refunds for whatever reason, and The Company will booked, or the deposit was more than £300 per person, published itinerary, must be met by you at the time. For more information, visit www.abtot.com such as deposits paid by us to airlines or agents, of The Company. We give no undertaking as to the not be bound by any such promises. our normal cancellations and transfers conditions will if these are neither refundable nor transferable. minimum or maximum size of a team, but we do 38. The Company cannot be made liable for the 4. The term ‘expedition’ used in these booking 44. These booking conditions may only be waived in apply and you will be liable for the appropriate charges. Transfers between expeditions will not be affected until undertake to ensure that leaders and support staff are consequences of strikes, industrial action, wars, riots, conditions refers to all itineraries described in this special circumstances, and in writing, by a letter 14. Extensions to our expedition itineraries can be purchased all such fees and costs are received by The Company. supplied in appropriate numbers to ensure the principle sickness, quarantine, government intervention, weather brochure including those which might otherwise from a Director of The Company. be known as tours, treks, trips or holidays, but not separately. The arrangements for extensions are made 20. Transfer requests must be received by The Company objectives of the expedition can be achieved. Similarly, conditions, the failure of a scheduled airline, or other 45. The terms and conditions of all agreements made including those specifically entitled ‘extensions.’ on an individual basis once a booking is made. in writing and before the date the final balance is due. leaders named in expedition descriptions, anywhere in untoward occurrences, whatever they may be. Extensions are subject to a separate deposit of £150 our literature or on our website, may also be changed. with The Company shall be subject to, and governed 5. All international flights are on scheduled national A transfer request after this point will be treated as a 39. In the event of civil unrest in a particular region, per person per extension. Confirmation of receipt by by, English law. carriers. At the time of going to print, we are unable cancellation and the transfer fee will not be accepted. 33. We reserve the right to cancel any expedition which we undertake to inform our clients of the situation The Company of your extension deposit will not be 46. When making your booking it is implied and accepted to name the airline or the type of aircraft. Flight details 21. You cannot transfer from an expedition for which the does not have sufficient people taking part to make as soon as we have knowledge of it. confirmation of your extension as it will not be possible that you have read and understood all these booking will be sent to you within one month of departure. deposit is more than £300. You cannot transfer a it financially viable. By the same token, we will endeavour 40. For all expeditions, you must have insurance at that time for The Company to confirm that the booked to ensure that an expedition runs if at all possible. conditions and agree to abide by them. 6. All flights booked by The Company for you will booking from an expedition to a course. that covers you for all of the activities, specifically those extension will be available or that it will be identical to If an expedition is likely to be cancelled under such be subject to the conditions of the carrying airline deemed to be hazardous, included in the itinerary that shown in our marketing material. We will confirm all 22. You may transfer your booking more than once, circumstances, we undertake to inform you as soon as which, in most cases, limit the airline’s liability to the and for any activities you may undertake if travelling of the arrangements to you before you pay your final as long as you pay the transfer fee on each separate possible, but this may occur after final balances are due. passenger in accordance with international law and balance. Should the confirmed extension itinerary be occasion, at the rate prevailing at the time of payment, conventions. The Company accepts no liability for the significantly different to the published one then you will and pay any costs incurred by The Company in respect consequences of delays, cancellations, change of be free to cancel the extension only and a refund will of each booking held. The final expedition to which routing, change of departure or arrival airport or for your original deposit is transferred must start within be made. This will not affect your booking of the main www.xtreme-everest.co.uk any other changes to your flight schedule, whatever expedition itinerary, which will be held as a separate 18 calendar months of the start date of the expedition Private Expeditions they may be or howsoever caused. contract, nor the cancellation terms pertaining to it. originally booked. Failure to travel within this time will be taken as disinclination to travel and as a de facto Jagged Globe regularly provides tailor made 7. As part of our planning, we routinely reserve flights from 15. You may pay your deposit and final balance using any intention to cancel the booking, regardless of the and returning to a specific airport within the UK (usually, lawful means. The total amount received by our bank expeditions, treks and courses for groups of friends, payment of any transfer fees or costs in the intervening but not exclusively, one of the London airports) for the must be no less than the full amount shown on your charities, military teams and for television. period. Under such circumstances, the deposit and anticipated number of passengers for each expedition. invoice. If sending money by electronic (bank) transfer any money paid to affect a transfer, or transfers, The published full cost of each expedition is based on then you must pay the remitter’s (your) fees and the You decide on your destination or mountaineering will be forfeited to The Company. the cost of such a reserved flight, as that cost is known beneficiaries (our) fees. objective and when you want to go and then we make at the time of publication. If you would prefer to fly on 23. During an expedition, every effort will be made to 16. If payment is made by credit card, a 2% charge will the logistic arrangements. Your trip can be a carbon a different airline, on a different schedule, at a different adhere to the planned itinerary but it must be realised be added to the amount due to The Company (this ticket class, or from a different airport, to that reserved by that with adventurous activities of this type, or by being copy of one of those described in this brochure, applies to all payments; deposits, interim payments, final us, then you may do so as long as the alternative flight in the developing world, or by visiting regions with limited balances and miscellaneous purchases.) This charge is Jagged Globe’s arranged to suit your available holiday period, or we is available, it does not inhibit the in-country schedule for infrastructure by virtue of their remoteness or otherwise, imposed by the credit card payment service provider can make the arrangements for your own unique trip. your expedition, and that you pay the difference in cost or with world-wide travel in general, changes to the and is used, in part, to provide consumer protection for New Zealand between the flight you prefer and the cost we assumed programme will occur from time to time. The Company You then have the option of having a Jagged Globe goods and services purchased, in accordance with the in arriving at the published full cost for your expedition. accepts neither responsibility nor liability, for any ensuing Mountaineering Partner leader go with you, or leading the trip yourself with the terms and conditions pertaining to the credit card being In addition, if the flight we reserved is no longer costs, or the consequences of any such change, used. This charge can be avoided by using a debit card Aspiring Guides are our mountaineering assistance of our local guides and helpers. You are available, when you book, at the price assumed in the however caused. (for deposits, for example) or by sending a cheque welcome to contact us for an initial discussion, so that preparation of this brochure, then you will be informed partners in New Zealand. Based in Wanaka, (for final balances). 24. Circumstances may arise where we are forced to alter of and asked to pay any increase in cost, before your we can offer useful advice and suggestions, then put dates, expedition duration, flight schedules, trekking on the edge of the Mt Aspiring National booking is confirmed. If you do not accept this increase 17. The final balance for your expedition booking routes, or hotel accommodation. We will try to inform Park, they are one of New Zealand’s together a detailed quotation, which is entirely without in cost, you may withdraw your booking, without and for any booked extension should reach The you of any such changes as soon as we know of them. obligation. Over the last twenty years, Jagged Globe penalty, and your deposit will be returned to you. Company no later than 60 days (90 days in the case longest established guiding companies. of Denali, Antarctic Climber and Vinson Massif) before 25. On assessing the conditions expected to be has organised over 160 private expeditions. In 2007, 8. If you want to fly from a different London airport to that The Southern Alps of New Zealand have the expedition. If the balance is not received by the encountered in the mountains or the abilities of the we organised the Caudwell Xtreme Everest expedition, booked by us, or you want to depart from a regional long been regarded as a prime specified date, we reserve the right to cancel your Team Members, your Expedition Leader may decide to airport, you must tell us which airport you want to leave amongst others. See www.xtreme-everest.co.uk booking and your deposit will be forfeited, unless change any aspect of the trip, if he or she believes that mountaineering region. The mountains from on the booking form, at the time of booking. a Director of The Company has agreed a delay in to continue with the itinerary or activities, or any latterly may not be quite so high (Aoraki-Mt Cook 9. We will confirm your departure airport when we confirm your payment. Bookings accepted after the balance agreed alternatives, would place anyone at undue risk. is more than 1,000m lower than Mont your booking. After your booking is confirmed, if you due date can be secured with the appropriate deposit 26. Your Expedition Leader will do his or her utmost decide on a different departure airport or flight, you Blanc) but they start much lower down and full payment must then reach us within 7 days to ensure that any problems are solved for the benefit must inform us in writing (email or letter). and accessing them is a major element of us confirming your booking but no less than 3 days of the Team as a whole. Signing the booking form 10. At any time, we will do our best to change your before your scheduled date of departure to take signifies your acceptance of the Expedition Leader’s of the experience. They are therefore not flight to meet your requirements, but this cannot part in the expedition. authority to make decisions affecting the group or busy and enjoy an environment more be guaranteed as it will be subject to availability 18. Notice of cancellation must be given in writing. Should individuals. For instance, the Expedition Leader may akin to mountain ranges of twice their and there may be an additional cost, which you you cancel, the following scale of charges will apply: require an individual, or individuals, to leave the Adventureworks is the youth division of Jagged Globe. will be required to pay. expedition if they believe that a person or person’s height. Popular ascents include Mt Aspiring, Date of Cancellation Charge Incurred We organise educational expeditions and courses 11. If you book to join an expedition on a ‘land-only’ basis, health is at risk, if a person is not coping or may not Mt Tasman and of course New Zealand’s 60 days or more before for schools and groups of young people. We also the Company cannot accept any responsibility for any cope with the physical or mental demands of the crowning glory, Aoraki-Mt Cook. Aspiring the expedition starts. loss of deposit of the travel arrangements that you make in order to expedition, if an illegal act has been or may be Guides can also offer ice climbing and support schools in the provision of their Duke of 30 days or more but less committed, or conduct is, may become, or has been, join the expedition. The Company accepts no financial technical mountaineering courses, as Edinburgh’s Award programme, as a Licensed liability that may arise from any enforced change to than 60 days before the detrimental to the safety, enjoyment or well-being of Commercial Access Organisation. your travel plans due to any alteration of the expedition expedition starts. 30% of total trip cost the group or of any individual within the group. well as ski-mountaineering and heli-skiing. dates, the itinerary or its cancellation, howsoever 14 days or more but less 27. A client leaving an expedition at any stage, for You can check out all the opportunities Tel: 0845 345 8850 caused. You are advised to book transferable, than 30 days before the whatever reason, will not be entitled to any refund offered by Aspiring Guides on their excellent Email: [email protected] refundable travel tickets with no penalties should expedition starts. 60% of total trip cost nor to compensation unless agreed by a Director website: www.aspiringguides.com a cancellation be necessary. of The Company. Web: www.adventureworks.co.uk

58/59 www.jagged-globe.co.uk