South Col Expeditions [email protected] 1 South Col Expeditions [email protected] 2 Map of the Everest Region
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Expeditions & Treks 2008/2009
V4362_JG_Exped Cover_AW 1/5/08 15:44 Page 1 Jagged Globe NEW! Expeditions & Treks www.jagged-globe.co.uk Our new website contains detailed trip itineraries 2008 for the expeditions and treks contained in this brochure, photo galleries and recent trip reports. / 2009 You can also book securely online and find out about new trips and offers by subscribing to our email newsletter. Jagged Globe The Foundry Studios, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield S3 8EN United Kingdom Expeditions Tel: 0845 345 8848 Email: [email protected] Web: www.jagged-globe.co.uk & Treks Cover printed on Take 2 Front Cover: Offset 100% recycled fibre Mingma Temba Sherpa. sourced only from post Photo: Simon Lowe. 2008/2009 consumer waste. Inner Design by: pages printed on Take 2 www.vividcreative.com Silk 75% recycled fibre. © 2007 V4362 V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:10 Page 2 Ama Dablam Welcome to ‘The Matterhorn of the Himalayas.’ Jagged Globe Ama Dablam dominates the Khumbu Valley. Whether you are trekking to Everest Base Camp, or approaching the mountain to attempt its summit, you cannot help but be astounded by its striking profile. Here members of our 2006 expedition climb the airy south Expeditions & Treks west ridge towards Camp 2. See page 28. Photo: Tom Briggs. The trips The Mountains of Asia 22 Ama Dablam: A Brief History 28 Photo: Simon Lowe Porter Aid Post Update 23 Annapurna Circuit Trek 30 Teahouses of Nepal 23 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 30 The Seven Summits 12 Everest Base Camp Trek 24 Lhakpa Ri & The North Col 31 The Seven Summits Challenge 13 -
A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
Volume 27 # June 2013
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Volume 27 l June 2013 Contents Annual Seminar February 2013 ........................................ 2 First Jagdish Nanavati Awards ......................................... 7 Banff Film Festival ................................................................. 10 Remembrance George Lowe ....................................................................................... 11 Dick Isherwood .................................................................................... 3 Major Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya in 2012 ......... 14 Himalayan Club Committee for the Year 2013-14 ........... 28 Select Contents of The Himalayan Journal, Vol. 68 ....... 30 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER The Himalayan Club Annual Seminar 2013 The Himalayan Club Annual Seminar, 03 was held on February 6 & 7. It was yet another exciting Annual Seminar held at the Air India Auditorium, Nariman Point Mumbai. The seminar was kicked off on 6 February 03 – with the Kaivan Mistry Memorial Lecture by Pat Morrow on his ‘Quest for the Seven and a Half Summits’. As another first the seminar was an Audio Visual Presentation without Pat! The bureaucratic tangles had sent Pat back from the immigration counter of New Delhi Immigration authorities for reasons best known to them ! The well documented AV presentation made Pat come alive in the auditorium ! Pat is a Canadian photographer and mountain climber who was the first person in the world to climb the highest peaks of seven Continents: McKinley in North America, Aconcagua in South America, Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Vinson Massif in Antarctica, and Puncak Jaya in Indonesia. This hour- long presentation described how Pat found the resources to help him reach and climb these peaks. Through over an hour that went past like a flash he took the audience through these summits and how he climbed them in different parts of the world. -
SEVEN SUMMITS Aspiration Becoming Accomplishment
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG MAY/JUNE 2012 • VOLUME 106 • NO. 3 MountaineerE X P L O R E • L E A R N • C O N S E R V E SEVEN SUMMITS Aspiration becoming accomplishment Inside: Overseas climbing tips, pg. 12 National Trails Day events, pg. 17 Lightweight, calorie-loaded foods, pg. 20 Photo contest 2012 inside May/June 2012 » Volume 106 » Number 3 12 Cllimbing Abroad 101 Enriching the community by helping people Planning your first climb abroad? Here are some tips explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest. 14 Outdoors: healthy for the economy A glance at the value of recreation and preservation 12 17 There is a trail in need calling you Help out on National Trails Day at one of these events 18 When you can’t hike, get on a bike Some dry destinations for National Bike Month 21 Achieving the Seven Summits Two Olympia Mountaineers share their experiences 8 conservation currents New Alpine Lakes stewards: Weed Watchers 18 10 reachING OUT Great people, volunteers and partners bring success 16 MEMbERShIP matters A hearty thanks to you, our members 17 stepping UP Swapping paddles for trail maintenance tools 24 impact GIVING 21 Mountain Workshops working their magic with youth 32 branchING OUT News from The Mountaineers Branches 46 bOOkMARkS New Mountaineers release: The Seven Summits 47 last word Be ready to receive the gifts of the outdoors the Mountaineer uses . DIscoVER THE MOUntaINEERS If you are thinking of joining—or have joined and aren’t sure where to start—why not attend an information meeting? Check the Branching Out section of the magazine (page 32) for times and locations for each of our seven branches. -
Lhotse 8,516M / 27,939Ft
LHOTSE 8,516M / 27,939FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES LHOTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to June 3, 2022 Duration: 56 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$35,000 per person On the summit of Lhotse Photo: Guy Cotter During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Lhotse, the world’s 4th highest mountain. Lhotse sits alongside and in the shadow of its more famous partner, Mount Everest, which is possibly THE ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS why it receives a relatively low number of ascents. Lhotse’s climbing route follows the same line LHOTSE TEAM of ascent as Everest to just below the South Col LOGISTICS where we break right to continue up the Lhotse Face and into Lhotse’s summit couloir. The narrow With technology constantly evolving, Adventure couloir snakes for 600m/2,000ft, all the way to the Consultants have kept abreast of all the new lofty summit. techniques and equipment advancements which encompass the latest in weather The climb will be operated alongside the Adventure forecasting facilities, equipment innovations and Consultants Everest team and therefore will enjoy communications systems. the associated infrastructure and legendary Base Camp support. Adventure Consultants expedition staff, along with the operations and logistics team at the head Lhotse is a moderately difficult mountain due to office in New Zealand, provide the highest level of its very high altitude; however, the climbing is backup and support to the climbing team in order sustained and never too complicated or difficult. to run a flawless expedition. This is coupled with It is a perfect peak for those who want to climb at a very strong expedition guiding team and Sherpa over 8,000m in a premier location! contingent who are the most competent and experienced in the industry. -
OTES-AFRI a 15 Hours with One Bivouac (ED(In
OTES-AFRI A 102 New route 011 MOl/lit Kenya (Photo: DOllg Seotl) 15 hours with one bivouac (ED(in£), HVS). They later climbed the Diamond Couloir via the headwall, and continued to the Gatc of Mists and on to Batian, descending by elion and the Shipton Route in 14 hours. The Oilier Couloir was climbed (grade V) for the first time by Phil Snyder and Rob Collister. On the N Face, the NE Buttress was climbed in its entirety (grade Vsup) by lan Howell, Phil SnyJer and lain Alien. Another new climb was the Diamond Buttress Route (grade VI) by lan Howell and John Temple on the S Face; they also climbed for the first time the ESE Face of Nelion (grade VI). Climbers have also bcen busy in the Ruwenzori, at Hell's Gate Gorge and on Mount Mulanje (3001 m), Malawi's highest mountain, and several new routes have resulted; details are given in Mountain 4712 and 50 11. SOUTH AFRICA We are indebted to Michael Scott who has provided us with an Events and Trends revicw of climbing in South Africa which appears on p 227. ASIA The trend towards lightweight expeditions, exemplified by ascents such as Messner and Habeler's of Hidden Pcak and Tasker and Renshaw's of Dunagiri in 1975 has been re inforced this season. Some outstanding climbs have resulted-the ascent of the W face of Changabang by Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker represents one of the more spectacular of these. The previous relaxation of restrictions in the Karakoram and in Garhwal is resulting in 236 NOTES-ASIA an increased number of parties in both areas; the Japanese have been particularly active in thc former and have recorded many first ascents. -
The Structural Geometry, Metamorphic and Magmatic Evolution of the Everest Massif, High Himalaya of Nepal–South Tibet
Journal of the Geological Society, London, Vol. 160, 2003, pp. 345–366. Printed in Great Britain. The structural geometry, metamorphic and magmatic evolution of the Everest massif, High Himalaya of Nepal–South Tibet M. P. SEARLE1,R.L.SIMPSON1,R.D.LAW2,R.R.PARRISH3 &D.J.WATERS1 1Department of Earth Sciences, Oxford University, Parks Road, Oxford OX1 3PR, UK (e-mail: [email protected]. uk) 2Department of Geological Sciences, Virginia Tech., Blacksburg, Virginia 24061, USA 3Department of Geology, Leicester University, Leicester LE1 7RH, and NERC Isotope Geosciences Laboratory, Keyworth, Nottingham, NG12 5GG Abstract: This paper presents a new geological map together with cross-sections and lateral sections of the Everest massif. We combine field relations, structural geology, petrology, thermobarometry and geochronology to interpret the tectonic evolution of the Everest Himalaya. Lithospheric convergence of India and Asia since collision at c. 50 Ma. resulted in horizontal shortening, crustal thickening and regional metamorphism in the Himalaya and beneath southern Tibet. High temperatures (.620 8C) during sillimanite grade metamorphism were maintained for 15 million years from 32 to 16.9 Æ 0.5 Ma along the top of the Greater Himalayan slab. This implies that crustal thickening must also have been active during this time, which in turn suggests high topography during the Oligocene–early Miocene. Two low-angle normal faults cut the Everest massif at the top of the Greater Himalayan slab. The earlier, lower Lhotse detachment bounds the upper limit of massive leucogranite sills and sillimanite–cordierite gneisses, and has been locally folded. Ductile motion along the top of the Greater Himalayan slab was active from 18 to 16.9 Ma. -
Climbers' Journal
Climbers’ Journal A scientific expedition to Mount Everest featuring journal entries from Dr. David Lageson and Travis Corthouts, Montana State University Department of Earth Sciences Use this Climbers’ Journal in conjunction with the Everest Education Expedition curriculum materials www.montana.edu/Everest Dr. David Lageson Travis Corthouts M ONTANA NSF Access the full online curriculum, including lesson plans, classroom activities and multimedia files at www.montana.edu/Everest n Spring 2012, a team of athletes and scientists date and describe the fossil-bearing marine limestones embarked upon an historic expedition to com- that form the summit pyramid of Everest; and study- memorate the 50th anniversary of the first success- ing the major faults that cut through Mount Everest Iful American ascent of Mount Everest. to better understand how and when they formed (in Several of the team’s climbers, led by mountaineer particular, the Qomolangma and Lhotse detachment and author Conrad Anker, sought to retrace the steps faults). of the first American ascent of Mount Everest via the Dr. David Lageson, a Montana State University geolo- difficult West Ridge. In 1963, two Americans (Tom gist, conducted several research projects while part Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld) became the first to suc- of the expedition and was a grantee of the National cessfully climb Everest’s West Ridge then descend via Geographic Society. The expedition was sponsored by the Southeast Ridge, thus traversing the entire moun- National Geographic and The North Face with sup- tain. This was one of the most difficult high-altitude port from Montana State University. feats in mountaineering history. -
The Economics of Innovation: Mountaineering and the American Space Program
The Economics of Innovation: Mountaineering and the American Space Program Howard E. McCurdy May, 2013 1 “The Economics of Innovation: Mountaineering and the American Space Program,” a research report submitted by Howard E. McCurdy, Ph.D., School of Public Affairs, American University, 4400 Massachusetts Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C., 20016, in fulfillment of NASA contract NNX12AQ63G, 11 March 2013; revised and resubmitted, 18 May 2013. Following page: An expedition 8 crewmember on the International Space Station took this photograph of Mt. Everest in 2004. Mt. Everest is 29,035 feet high. Passengers in a commercial jetliner flying over Everest at an altitude of 35,000 feet would be too close to the mountain to experience this view. The photograph is taken from the north. In the foreground appears the Tibetan plateau. To the south, clouds cover much of Nepal. Everest is the darker mountain peak to center right with the perennial cloud plume. The first expeditions attempting to climb the mountain approached from Tibet, traveling up the Rongbuk glacier, turning east, then moving back toward the Vshaped spot below and to the left of the summit. That is the North Col, a low point between Everest and Changtse. From the North Col, climbers proceed up the north ridge to its junction with the windswept northeast ridge and from there toward the summit. Most commercial outfitters approach the Everest from Nepal on the mountain’s southern side. This route follows the Western Cwm, visible as the deep cut stretching out to the right of the mountain. Upon reaching the South Col (behind Everest in this photograph), climbers turn north and head directly toward the space station. -
Everest 2008 Mountain of Politics
Everest 2008 Mountain of Politics In 2008, I returned to climb Mt. Everest for the third time. With my primary objective being to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s research, I also wanted to stand on top of the world – a goal that eluded me on my first two attempts in 2002 and 2003. But the Chinese were taking the Olympic torch to the summit and took control of Mt. Everest to ensure their summit would not be marred by protests over their handling of Tibet. For 8 weeks in the spring of 2008, I felt like a hostage and climbing took second priority over maintaining my sanity. 1 Part 1: Rumors of Demise ................................................................................................ 3 2007 Protests...................................................................................................................... 4 North vs. South.................................................................................................................. 6 Kathmandu........................................................................................................................ 8 The Khumbu...................................................................................................................... 8 Everest Base Camp ......................................................................................................... 12 Part 2 - Volunteer Prisoners at Base Camp.................................................................. 16 New Rules ....................................................................................................................... -
3.7 Ascent of Kala Pattar Kala Pattar (5545 M/18,190 Ft) Is Not a Separate Mountain, but a Prominent Peak on the South Ridge of the Mountain Pumori (7165 M/23,505 Ft)
3.7 Ascent of Kala Pattar Kala Pattar (5545 m/18,190 ft) is not a separate mountain, but a prominent peak on the south ridge of the mountain Pumori (7165 m/23,505 ft). Don’t be deceived by the modest aspect that it presents from Gorak Shep. It’s a steep, tiring ascent at high altitude, and its summit section involves some boulder-hopping and scrambling. Take plenty of water, and ensure it does not freeze, and take also warm clothing so you can linger long enough to enjoy the legendary summit views From Gorak Shep, the climb involves an altitude gain of 405 m/1330 ft, and takes about 3-4 hours for the round trip, plus time on the summit. Starting the ascent, Pumori ahead 59 Start by crossing the dry lake and go up the other side on sandy switchbacks. There are two obvious routes: the left one goes directly up the spur, and may be preferable after recent snowfall, but the slightly less steep one to the right is generally used. It begins as a sandy path with steep switchbacks that demand a slow pace. After a while, the gradient eases and there’s a wonderful middle section which traverses the hillside with ever-finer views opening up. Then the route becomes steeper again, with a sting in its tail. The final scramble to the cairn with prayer flags demands a fresh surge of energy. The summit area is tiny, so depending on how many others are competing for space, you can move to the small plateau just below, where movement is easier and the view just as good.