The World's from Nepal by the South Col Route
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everest The world’s highest mountain by the South Col route from Nepal www.jagged-globe.co.uk Introduction “A superbly planned and executed expedition - but then longer, spending at least one night there on the way up and, I wouldn't expect anything less from Jagged Globe.” more than likely, one there on the way down. It is also a long distance from this camp to the top, along an increasingly Barry Welsh Everest Summiteer narrow ridge, exposed to the prevailing winds, and all the time After reading though this information, if you would like to discuss above 8,600 metres. Using the South Col, however, you go any aspect of the expedition further, you are welcome to from under 8,000 metres to the top and back all in one go. contact Simon Lowe or Steve Bell, both of whom have led past This means you will not be exposed to the harshness and Jagged Globe Everest expeditions. Between them, they have physiologically debilitating need to sleep at over 8,000 metres. been on 7 Everest expeditions covering almost the entire The North Ridge has become more accessible in recent years, mountain: including the summit from the South Col, the North simply because it attracts people on the basis of cost, as it is Ridge Route, the West Ridge (from Tibet and from Nepal) and cheaper than to climb from Nepal. This is largely for two reasons. the upper reaches of the North Face through the Hornbein The permit prices are considerably less in Tibet, and all Couloir. This experience will be at your disposal in helping you equipment can be delivered directly to base camp by lorry, to prepare for you own ascent of the mountain, as a member which is far cheaper than using porters to load carry. of the Jagged Globe team. This intimate experience of climbing Nevertheless, with a reduced probability of reaching the top and on the mountain is in addition to that gained whilst planning the dangers invoked by the altitude profile of summit day, the and organising all of Jagged Globe’s expeditions for more than South Col is more cost-effective and probably safer on balance a decade. (albeit never safe, in any meaningful sense). That is, you are In Spring 2008, we will run our 10th expedition to the Summit via more likely to reach the top via the South Col, even if it has cost the South Col, because this remains the best way to get to the more to participate in an Everest climb. top. We first climbed the route in 1993, and have climbed it In terms of climbing, technical interest is similar, if not more many times since. sustained on the North Ridge, as longer passages are on rock with a series of "Steps" to be negotiated on the way to the Everest North or South summit. Nevertheless, you won’t be disappointed by the Just a causal referral to the statistics shows that the South Col climbing on the Lhotse Face and of reaching the South Summit, route gives the best chance of reaching the summit, and of or by the steep passage up the Hillary Step, although it doesn’t returning fit and well. This is mainly because the time spent at warrant the use of a ladder, as does the Second Step on the over 8,000 metres is less, as the last camp on the way to the top North Ridge. is on the South Col, at just under 8,000 metres. On the North Of course, the big technical and physical obstacle that exists for you, Ridge (which we have also climbed, so this comes from should you chose “South” in preference to “North”, is the Ice-fall. To tame experience) the top camp is at 8,400 metres, which means that, it helps to be in the company of Leaders and Sherpas who have being exposed to the extremes of altitude for appreciably many years of experience of negotiating its maze. 2 www.jagged-globe.co.uk Our Everest Record On our first expedition to Everest, in 1993, we climbed via the South Col and there were sixteen summiteers: seven climbers, seven Sherpas and two leaders. Since then, we have been successful on many other occasions, as follows: 1993: South Col - summit (post monsoon). 1994: North Ridge - stopped by deep snow. 1996: North Ridge – summit. 1998: South Col – summit. 1999: South Col – summit. 2000: South Col – summit. 2003: South Col – summit. 2004: South Col – summit. 2005: South Col – summit. Some personal records achieved by our expeditions: 2005: North Ridge – summit. • 1993 The Jagged Globe South Col expedition places 16 2006: South Col – summit. people on top, to become the most successful of all Everest 2007: South Col – summit. expeditions at that time. • 1996 North Ridge: Jagged Globe becomes the first team In addition to our Jagged Globe expeditions each spring, we also organiser to climb the mountain from both sides. organise expeditions to Everest and other 8,000 metre peaks for • 2003 South Col: Sibusiso Vilane becomes the first black African private teams. Below are some of the teams we have organised to climb Everest. an expedition for: • 2005 North Ridge: Jens Bojen becomes the oldest Brit to reach 2007 Caudwell Xtreme Everest the summit at age 61. 2007 AMA Shishapangma (British Army) • 2005 North Ridge: Sibusiso Vilane becomes the first black 2006 British Army Everest West Ridge (EWR) African to climb Everest twice, and by both routes. 2006 Xtreme Cho Oyu • 2005 North and South: Jagged Globe becomes the only team 2005 EWR Tibetan Reconnaissance organiser to lead climbers to the top from both sides in the 2004 British Services Makalu (Makalu and Baruntse) same season. Taken together, the number of people reaching 2000 British Services Kangchenjunga the top (22) re-establishes Jagged Globe as the most successful team organisers for ascents of Everest in any 1996 British Services Gasherbrum one season. • 2006 South Col: Rhys Jones becomes the youngest person in We have also supported expeditions to base camp for the the world to climb the Seven Summits by reaching the top of following organisations: Everest on his 20th birthday. • To film Caudwell Xtreme Everest • 2007 Jagged Globe organises the Caudwell Xtreme Everest McGilliveray Freeman Films (IMAX) BBC Horizon expedition, which takes the title of the most successful British Everest expedition, with 25 summiteers. • BBC World Service (a documentary on the working lives of commercial porters) • 2007 The Caudwell Xtreme Everest expedition undertakes medical research at unprecedented altitudes; needles • The Sunday Times (to follow Sir Ranulph Fiennes OBE attempt plunging deep into legs to take arterial blood at the Balcony in 2005) on their way back down from the top, for example. Jagged • Independent Television News (ITN) Globe Sherpas also put an exercise bike on the South Col, for research. • British Sky Broadcasting Numbers of summiteers include leaders, team members • PCI Fitch Film Production for EWR 2006 and Sherpas. 3 www.jagged-globe.co.uk Leadership Support We have the best Base Camp Manager, we could hope for. Mara Larson’s relationship with Everest began when, as a psychology student, she visited the mountain to gain data on people’s responses to hypoxic environments, a project funded by NASA. This took Mara back several times, until she came to our attention and then, realising what a huge asset she would David Hamilton will lead the 2008 Jagged Globe Everest be, we recruited her as a member of our team. During the many Expedition. No one in Britain (and few elsewhere in the world months cumulated and spent in Base Camp, Mara has picked either) has led more 8,000-metre peak expeditions (including up a massive wealth of valuable experience, knowledge and multiple expeditions to Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, skills. Most importantly, she is highly regarded by our Sherpas. Shishapangma and Cho Oyu), and this will be David’s 4th They work tirelessly to help Mara achieve her goal of ensuring Everest expedition. David has climbed Everest from both the you have everything you need to put you in prime position for south side (2003) and from the north (2005). In 1999, he led on a shot at the top. Everest but gave up near the top to help a climber down. Mara is also an adept mountaineer herself and, in 2007, David will be on the mountain as a leader, climbing with the accompanied our team on some of their journeys through the team. As we also have a dedicated base camp manager to run icefall, and as far as Camp 3 (Lhotse Face). After the team’s the team's logistics, David's focus will remain firmly on you and climbers had been to the top, she took a stroll back up the your goal of climbing the mountain. As he has done on all mountain, to have a look around the South Col. So, if you want previous Everest expeditions, David he will be with the team to know what’s on the menu for dinner, or what’s it like to climb on summit day taking responsibility for the intimate decision- the icefall or the Lhotse Face, Mara will tell you. In between making that will best assure your chances of success. times, she’ll be maintaining the power supply, fixing the radios and making sure your oxygen has been carried to where David will be supported by Lydia Bradey (who climbed Everest it’s needed. without oxygen in 1988), as team numbers require. 4 www.jagged-globe.co.uk Sherpas “Our Sherpas and the support we got from Jagged Globe were simply outstanding.