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Behind the Scenes

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Behind the Scenes

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Anthony Sheehy, Mike at the Hunt , OUR READERS Steve Whitfield, Stevie Winder, Ann in , Many thanks to the travellers who used the anonymous farmer who pointed the way to the last edition and wrote to us with help- Knockgraffon Motte and all the truly delightful ful hints, useful advice and interesting people I met on the road who brought sunshine anecdotes: to the wettest of Irish days. Thanks also, as A Andrzej Januszewski, Annelise Bak C Chris always, to Daisy, Tim and Emma. Keegan, Colin Saunderson, Courtney Shucker D Denis O’Sullivan J Jack Clancy, Jacob Catherine Le Nevez Harris, Jane Barrett, Joe O’Brien, John Devitt, Sláinte first and foremost to Julian, and to Joyce Taylor, Juliette Tirard-Collet K Karen all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism Boss, Katrin Riegelnegg L Laura Teece, Lavin professionals en route for insights, information Graviss, Luc Tétreault M Marguerite Harber, and great craic. Thanks especially to Victoria Marilyn Helterline, Martin Coyle, Mic Porter, Moore at Translink, Gerry, Tricia, Inez and fam- Michael Kischner, Michelle Coen, Miranda ily in , and Laura, Peter and all in Keating O Orla Dolan P Paul Grayhurst . Huge thanks also to DE James Smart, R Robyn Spurdle, Ruth Yanor S Sam Dieterle, Neil Wilson for Northern tips and every-

Samantha Corrigan W Wayne Harber one at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu. AUTHOR THANKS Ryan Ver Berkmoes Like a conversation over nothing in particular Fionn Davenport in an Irish pub, thanks to those who helped me Thanks to my editor at Lonely Planet and all on this book threaten to go on and on and on… those who worked on the guide. A huge thanks But a few: Charley Adley was a friend and muse to Laura, who’s the best support team any as always; Angela Cullen introduced me to all guidebook author could hope for. things and turned me on to obscure author Mike Hunt; and golden thanks to my big Damian Harper plum in the Big Apple, Alexis. Big thanks to Declan in , Gerard Mad- den, the reception staff at Rockwell College, 690 Neil Wilson ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to the friendly and helpful tourist Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, office staff in , , Wexford, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Kilkenny and ; to Sean at Glengarriff ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate and to Moira and Hillary at Fleming’s White Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Bridge in Killarney; to Cathal and Damian at Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Lough Hyne; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James and the editorial team Illustrations pp68-9, pp142-3 by Javier at Lonely Planet. Zarracina; pp312-13 by Michael Weldon.

Cover photograph: Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Causeway Coast Chris Hill/Alamy.

THIS BOOK Destination Editor James Assisting Cartographer Smart Product Editors Rachel Imeson Assisting This 12th edition of Lonely Kate Chapman, Bruce Evans Book Designer Virginia Planet’s Ireland guidebook Regional Senior Cartog- Moreno Cover Researcher was researched and written rapher Mark Griffiths Book Naomi Parker Thanks to by Fionn Davenport, Damian Designer Wendy Wright Gemma Graham, Andi Jones, Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Assisting Editors Carolyn Elizabeth Jones, Kate Kiely, Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Neil Bain, Imogen Bannister, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Wilson. This guidebook was Bridget Blair, Kate Evans, Sam Alison Ridgway, Kathryn produced by the following: Forge, Helen Koehne, Kellie Rowan, Vicky Smith, Lauren Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Erin Wellicome, Tracy Whitmey Richards 691

Index

1798 Rising 458 Ardara 442-3 423-6 Mountcharles 438 Cathedral 295 Ballyquintin Point 566 Pollan Strand 462 A Ardgroom 252 436-7 Portstewart Strand 602 Abbey Island 277 Ardmore 184-5 354-5 Bay 236 Abbeyleix 490-1 565-8 Baltimore 238-9 Rosses Point 421 Abbeyshrule 477 area codes 21, 676 Banagher 485-6 Skellig Ring 275 accommodation 670-1, see Arigna Miners Way & Banba’s Crown 463 Spanish Point 341 also individual locations Historical Trail 475 Bangor 564-5 Streedagh Beach 429 52 Armagh city 583-6 banshees 422 Trá Leitreach 379 activities 28-31, 37-43, see Armagh, County 58, 583-7, 245-7 Trá na Rossan 457 also individual activities 584 Barleycove Beach 243 Tramore Beach (Donegal) 307-9, 318 accommodation 562 Barnacle, Nora 362 52, 444, 450 249 climate 562 191 Tramore Beach Aghadoe 260 food 562 Battle of Boyne 500 (Waterford) 180 Ahakista 244 highlights 563, 563 Battle of 227 Tullagh Strand 462 air travel 678, 680 Arranmore Island 446 Battle of the Boyne 500, 643 Waterfoot 616 airports 21, 678, 680 art galleries, see galleries beachcombing 463 White Bay 608 331-2 Askeaton 306 beaches White Strand 340 alcohol 654 Athenry 394-5 Ballycastle 612 Wine Strand 288 Allihies 251 477-9 Ballymastocker Beach 459 Woodstown Beach 178 All-Ireland Finals 31 ATMs 343, 674 Barleycove Beach 243 226 Altamont Gardens 189 Aughnanure 383 Bundoran Beach 437 217, 247-52, ancestry, see genealogy Aughris Head 426 Carrick Finn Beach 445 247 Beckett, Samuel 81, 90, Angela’s Ashes 301 Avoca 152-3 Clonea Strand 181 621, 659 angling, see fishing 385 Anglo-Irish Treaty 647-50 beer 48, see also breweries, B Beach 288 Guinness animals 663-4 Ballard Bay 340 Culdaff Beach 464 Belfast 57, 528-61, , Annagassan 514 532-3 Ballina (Clare) 333-4 Curracloe Beach 165 542, 550-1 Annagry 445-6 Ballina (Mayo) 415-16 Curran Strand 603-4 accommodation 547-8 281 Ballingarry 309 Cushendun 615 activities 543-4 Antrim Coaster 604 Ballintemple 449 Beach 277 children, travel with 539 Antrim, County 58, 603-19 Ballintoy 608-9, 611, 610-11 Donegal, County 441 climate 528 accommodation 588 Ballitore 157 Dooks Beach 270 drinking & nightlife 528, climate 588 ballooning 508 Doonalt Beach 441 553-6 food 588 296 Doughmore Bay 340 entertainment 556-7 highlights 590-1, 590-1 Ballycastle (Antrim) 612-13 Beach 353 festivals & events 546-7 Antrim town 618-19 Ballycastle (Mayo) 414 Fintragh Bay 439 food 528, 548-53 apples 166, 585 Ballyconnell 523 Glassillaun Beach 391 highlights 529, 529 apps 98 Ballyhack 167 Hollow Beach 426 history 530 51, 371-82, 376-7 Ballyhenry Island 566 Inishbofin 390 information 558-9 history 371-3 Ballyjamesduff 522 Inisheer 381 itineraries 531 information 372 Ballyknocken House 149 337 shopping 558-61 travel to/from 372-8 Ballyliffin 462 Kilmurvey Beach 373 sights 530-43 225 Louisburgh 402 tours 544-6 Map Pages 000 Ballymastocker Beach 459 Magheraroarty Beach 449 travel to/from 559-61 Photo Pages 000 Ballymena 619 Malinbeg Beach 441 travel within 561 692 Bell Harbour 356 Kerry Village car travel 680-1 Belleek 631-2 Museum 269 Carlingford 517-23 (Askeaton) 306 Belturbet 522 Roundstone Bog 387 , County 54, 187-92 Desmond Castle (Adare) 307 Benbulben 52, 427 Book of Kells 67, 68, 70 highlights 160-1, 160-1 431 Bennettsbridge 200-1 books 638, 660, 661 Carna 386 347 Bere Island 250 environment 662, 663 Carndonagh 462-3

INDEX INDEX Doonbeg Castle 340 bicycle travel, see cycling history 642, 643, 644, 385 645, 646, 647, 650, 652 Castle 73-5 birdwatching 133, 240, 293, 38, 267 border crossings 680 Dundrum Castle 575 663-4, 578 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

B- Aughris Head 426 Borris 190-1 16, 609, 611, 16, 610 Dungarvan Castle 181 

C Baginbun Head 169 boycotts 401 617-18 393-4  Carlingford 518 Boyle 474-7 Carrickmacross 526-7 605 Wildfowl Boyne, Battle of 500, 643 Carrick-on-Shannon 468-72 Dunsany Castle 506 & Centre Brandon’s Point 291 Carrick-on-Suir 320-1 Castle 171 569, 579 breweries 48, 83, 218, 281, 339 Castle 621 Clare Island 403 350, 543 Carrigart 457 Castle & Walled Lough Muirí 356 243 Garden 617 Carron 353 Rathlin Island 613 Brownstown Head 179 Castle 455 Carrowkeel 423 276 Brú na Bóinne 15, 495, Castle 132-3 421-2 Tory Island 448 498-9, 15 Huntington Castle 192 Carrowmore Megalithic budget 21, 23, 678 Birr 483-5 Cemetery 17, 421, 17 193-4 460-1 Black Pigs Dyke 524 Cashel 310-14 Kinbane Castle 609 Bundoran 437-8 black pudding 45, 233, Castle Espie Wildfowl & King John’s Castle 216-17 332-3 Wetlands Centre 569, (Carlingford) 518 523-4 , the 345-56, 346 579, 578 King John’s Castle 185, 227 activities 346 Castlebar 416 (Limerick) 300-1 Stone 222 travel to/from 347 Castlebellingham 514 & Walled Garden 331 290-1 travel within 347 Castlecomer 206 Lea Castle 493 Blessington 147-8 Burren Perfumery & Floral Castledermot 157 Leamanegh Castle 351 Bloody Foreland 446 Centre 353 287, 291-2 483 Bloody Sunday 596 Burtonport 445-6 Castlemaine 280 186 Bloomsday 29, 99 bus travel 678, 680, 682 27, see also forts, Castle 296 Boa Island 630-1, 627 Causeway Coast 604 ruins, stately homes Lynch’s Castle 361 boat travel 678-9, 680, Bushmills 605-6 95 153 679, see also sailing business hours 675 Athenry Castle 395 Narrow Water Castle 580 Aran Islands 373 Butlersbridge 521 477 Nenagh 321 Ards Peninsula 566 383 Northburgh Castle 464 Baltimore 238 Ballycarbery Castle 270 C O’Dea Castle 330 Bere Island 250 248 Ballyhack Castle 167 Ormond Castle 321 Blasket Islands 291 Caherciveen 269-71 543 Parke’s Castle 472 Clare, County 336, 349 273, 275-7 Demesne 483 Portaferry Castle 566 Gap of Dunloe 266 Cahir 315-16 222, 235 Rathmullan Castle 458 Howth 133 Mountain 146 Buncrana Castle 460 262 Lough Erne 629, 631 & Folk canoeing 42-3, 41 500 Lough Foyle Ferry 601 Park 332 Cavan, County 521 506, Rose of Innisfree 472 Cabra Castle 523 502 Clare, County 342 152 Scattery Island 336 315 Cork, County 213, 236, 250 Tarbert 296 239, 249 Carrickfergus Castle 617 Castletownshend 236 Waterford, County 178 Donegal, County 436, 621 cathedrals, see churches & Wexford, County 178 445, 459 491 cathedrals bodhrán 283, 381 , County 628, 526 Causeway Coast 16, 608-9, 629-30 Estate 573 Bog of Allen 154-5 611, 607, 16 Galway, County 392 488-9 154, 663 Causeway Rambler 604 Kerry, County 277, 292 Classiebawn Castle 429 Clara Bog Nature Cavan Burren Park 24, 523 Reserve 490 Mayo, County 400 Clonony Castle 488 Cavan, County 57, 520-4 Midlands, the 485 331 accommodation 494 Waterford, County 181 Cromwell’s Castle 485 climate 494 Map Pages 000 Cape Clear Island 240-1 Desmond Castle food 494 Photo Pages 000 Cappoquin 185 (Kinsale) 229 highlights 496-7, 496-7 693 Cavan town 520-1 Holy Cross Abbey 314-15 St Patrick’s Church of Connor Pass 287, 291, 286 524 Holy Cross Church 278 Ireland Cathedral 583 consulates 673 caves Holy Trinity Cathedral 175 St Patrick’s Roman 517-20 Aillwee Caves 354 Holy Trinity Church 320-1 Catholic Cathedral 583 Copper Coast 181 Crag Cave 295 Cathedral 350-1 St Paul’s Church 485 Abbey 355 St Peter’s Church of Cushendun 615 333 Cork city 14, 210-21, 212, 14

Ireland 513 INDEX Cave 347 Kilmalkedar Church 289 accommodation 214-15 St Peter’s Roman Catho- Dunmore Cave 206 Knock Marian Shrine 417 lic Church 513 drinking & nightlife 218-19 Kilkee sea cave 337 355 St Saviour’s Church 144 entertainment 219-20 C Marble Arch Caves 633 Parish Church of St Teampall na Naoimh 384 Colman 390 festivals & events 213-14 Caves 316 Teampall Phádraig 384 Quin Friary 331 food 215-18 Oweynagat Cave 474 Unitarian Church 77 Reefert Church 141, 144 information 220-1 Pigeonhole Cave 402 cinema 638 St Aidan’s Cathedral 171 shopping 220 Wee House of Malin 463 Civil War 647-8 St Anne’s Cathedral 535 sights 210-13 Céide Fields 414 rings 370 St Anne’s Church 211 tours 213 cell phones 20, 676 Claddaghduff 389 St Audoen’s Church of travel to/from 221 Celts, the 640 Clara 490 Ireland 86 travel within 221-2 ceramics 201 Clare, County 19, 55, Charles Fort 229 St ’s Catholic Cork, County 54, 207-52 Cathedral 395 322-56, 19 cheese 45, 242, 244, accommodation 207 St Brigid’s Cathedral 156 accommodation 322 252, 288 climate 322 climate 207 73 St Canice’s Cathedral food 207, 216-17, 223 194-5 food 322 children, travel with 671-2 highlights 208-9, 208-9 St Carthage’s Cathedral highlights 323, 323 Belfast 539 186 traditional music 326 history 210 Dublin 85 St Colman’s Cathedral Clare Island 403 Corkscrew Hill 354 Christianity 640-1 224 Clarina 306 Corlea Trackway 476 Christmas 31 St 509 Clarinbridge 393 Corofin 351-2 churches & cathedrals 84, St Columb’s Cathedral 389-90 costs 21, 23, 673 see also monasteries & 592 Coumeenoole Beach 288 abbeys, ruins 387-9 St Edan’s Cathedral Cliffony 429 courses Augustinian Friary 320-1 172-3 Cliffs of Magho 632 archaeology 440 Ballintubber Abbey 416 St Fechin’s Church 481 51, 344-5, cooking 149, 182, 225, 543 Black Abbey 196 St Fin Barre’s Cathedral 329 hill walking 440 Burt Church 459 211 cruises 347 Irish 441-2, 557 Carlow Cathedral 188 St Iberius’ Church 159 climate 20, 28-31, 672, see music 283 Cathedral of Christ the St Kevin’s Kitchen 144 also individual regions Crag Cave 295 King 480 St Malachy’s Church 534 climbing 43, 577 Crawfordsburn 565 Christ Church Cathedral St Malachy’s Parish clocháns 379 credit cards 674 (Dublin) 84-5 Church 582 291 Creggan 635 Christ Church Cathedral St Mary’s Cathedral 270 (Waterford) 175 (Killarney) 255 Clogherhead 514 Cromwell, Oliver 511, 643 Church of the Holy St Mary’s Cathedral 217, 232-6 Trinity 307 (Limerick) 301, 318 Clonea Strand 181 Crookhaven 243 Cill Cheannannach 379 St Mary’s Church 144 Clonegal 192 Crumlin Road Gaol 538 Cill Ghobnait 381 () Clones 525-6 crystal 183 Clonca Church & Cross St Mary’s Church 486-8, Mountain Park 24 464 (Inishmaan) 379 487, 471 Culdaff 464 Clonmacnoise 486 St Mary’s Collegiate Clonmany 462 culture 638-9, 653-5 Collegiate Church of St Church 226 317-20 Curracloe Beach 165 Nicholas of Myra 361 St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral Cloverhill 521-2 Curragh, the 155 Costello Memorial 91 Cnoc Rathnaí 381 Estate 178 Chapel 468 St Michael’s Church 621 coasteering 43, 184, 573 currency 20, 674 571 St Michan’s Church 91-2 222-5 Cushendall 615-16 Duiske Abbey 205 St Multose Church 229 Collins, Michael 236, 647 Cushendun 615 Friary 324 St Patrick’s Cathedral Coney Island 572 customs regulations 672 Franciscan Friary 83-4 (Dublin) Cong 400-2 cycling 40-2, 680 (Rossnowlagh) 436 St Patrick’s Cathedral Connemara 11, 382-93, Armagh, County 587 Franciscan Friary 516 () 384-5, 7, 11, 18 (Clonmel) 317 St Patrick’s Cathedral Clare, County 340, 354 information 382 Galway Cathedral 362 Church 507 Cork, County 229, 244-5, travel to/from 382 247, 248 694 cycling continued Connemara 391 information 128-9 etiquette 23, 48 Donegal, County 431, Inishbofin 390 internet resources exchange rates 21 436, 437, 442, 455, 457 Kilkee 338 103, 129 252 Dublin 130 Lahinch 342 itineraries 65 Fermanagh 621 Portstewart 602 literature 81 Galway, County 374, shopping 125-32 F Peninsula 457 fairies 422 INDEX INDEX 388, 390 sights 65-96 242 Falcarragh 448-9 Kerry 266, 271, 291 tours 79, 84, 96, 97-8 Dog’s Bay 52, 387 family-friendly activities 27 Kilkenny, County 196, 205 travel to/from 129-30 dolphins 250, 283, 337, 339 Famine, see C-F Sligo, County 418, 429 travel within 130-2 Donagh Cross 463 Famine Warhouse 315 Waterford, County 186 566 walks 94, 115, 115 Peninsula 457-9, 452 Donegal, County 18, 56, Duggerna Rocks 337 Fanore 353-4 430-65, 18 Dún Aengus 373 D farms 166, 200, 240, 252, accommodation 430 dangers, see safety Dunbrody Famine Ship 169 261-2, 569 climate 430 ‘Danny Boy’ 600 167-8 Father Ted 351, 375, 380 food 430 deer 265, 264-5 Dundalk 516-17 Féile An Phobail 30 highlights 432-3, Delphi 402 432-3 Dundrum Bay 575-6 295 travel to/from 431 19, 589-600, 594, 19 Dunfanaghy 449-51 Fermanagh, County 58, accommodation 597-8 travel within 431 Dungarvan 181-3 621-33 drinking & nightlife 599 Donegal Point 340 Dungloe 445 accommodation 620 entertainment 599 Donegal town 431-5, 434 Dunguaire Castle 393-4 climate 620 festivals & events 597 ’s Hollow 157 Dunkineely 438 food 620 food 598-9 Dooks Beach 270 Dunlewey 456-7 highlights 622-3, 622-3 history 589 Doolin 347-9, 329 Dunluce Castle 605 Ferns 172-3 information 600 Doolough Valley 402-3 Dunmore East 178-9 festivals & events 28-31 shopping 599-600 Doonalt Beach 441 Dunsany Castle 506 Ballybunion Bachelor sights 592-7 Doonbeg 340 Durrow 491-2 Festival 296 tours 597 Dooney Rock 427 Durrow Abbey 489 Regatta 283 travel to/from 600 Doughmore Bay 340 Durrus 243-4 Electric Picnic 493 travel within 600 Down, County 58, 564-82 Durrus cheese 244 film 28, 29, 214, 275, walks 593, 593 accommodation 562 49, 51, 250-1 294, 369, 546, 597 Derry, County, see climate 562 Dysert O’Dea 330 Foynes Air Show 306 Londonderry, County food 562 Galway 368-9, 368-9 Devenish Island 629 highlights 563, 563 Irish National Surfing E 13, Downhill Demesne 601-2 Championships 437 eagles 260, 264, 265 279-92, 280-1 571-2 Fair 278 Easkey 426 Dingle town 13, 287, 282, Downpatrick Head 414 Lisdoonvarna Match- 321 13, 287 drinks 47 making Festival 350 61, 93, 385, disabilities, travellers driving 680-1 literary 205, 245, 296, with 676 639, 646 369, 473, 527, 546, 659 Drogheda 511-15, 512 discount passes 83, 131, economy 638-9, 648-9 Lughnasa 291 Dromore Wood 499, 559 Electric Picnic 493 North West 200 walking 330 distilleries 47 electricity 672 Motorcycle Race 602 Drumcliff 427-8 Dingle Distillery 281-2 642-3 Puck Fair Festival 268 Dublin 11, 53, 60-132, , Jameson Experience 225 62 embassies 673 Rose of 293-4 , , , , 64 66 70-1 74-5 emergencies 21 Kilbeggan Distillery 88-9, 92-3, 106-7, walking 29, 187, 310, 577 Experience 479 10-11, 30, 122-3 493 Wicklow Gardens Festival Old Bushmills Distillery accommodation 60, English Market 217, 218, 217 150 605 99-103 English rule 642 Willie Clancy Summer Old Jameson Distillery 92 children, travel with 85 Ennis 324-30, 325 School 342 Teeling Distillery 24, 47 climate 60 324 Fethard 320 Dew Visitor discount passes 83, 131 Enniscorthy 170-2 film 638 Centre 24, 489 drinking & nightlife Enniscrone 426 festivals 28, 29, 214, 275, diving 43 294, 369, 546, 597 113-20 Enniskerry 138-40 Arranmore Island 446 Finavarra Peninsula 356 entertainment 120-5 Enniskillen 621-8, 624 Baltimore 238 Fisherstreet 347 festivals & events 98-9 342-4 fishing 43 food 60, 103-13 Entries, the 534 Cavan, County 521 Map Pages 000 highlights 62-3, 62-3 environment 662-5 Photo Pages 000 history 61, 64-5 Clare, County 333, Errigal Mountain 457, 452 340, 354 695 Cork, County 229, 248, G food 357 Kilkenny, County 201 252 Gaelic, see Irish highlights 358, 358 Killarney 255 Donegal, County 436, 19, 31, 95-6, Game of Thrones 16, Londonderry, County 602 439, 444, 445 124, 666, 667 545-6, 573, 602, 613 Sligo, County 421 Fermanagh, County Gallarus Oratory 289 gaols 86, 151, 210-11, Waterford, County 624, 630 galleries, see also 321, 538 180, 181

Galway, County 362, 384 Gap of Dunloe 266-7 Westmeath, County 479 INDEX Kerry, County 275 Ballinglen Art Foundation Gap of Mamore 461 Wicklow, County 139 Killarney 255, 263 414 Garinish Island, see Gort 395-6 Kilkenny 201 Ilnacullin Butler Gallery 193 Gortahork 448-9 F-H Mayo, County 415 Carrickmacross Lace gay travellers 673 Gortin 635 , County 524 Gallery 526 Belfast 555 Island 385 Roscommon, County 475 Centre for Contemporary Cork city 219 Gougane Barra Forest Sligo, County 428 Art 592 Dublin 118 Park 251 Waterford, County 185, 187 Courthouse Studios & genealogy 25, 75, 151, 210, Graiguenamanagh 205 Gallery 343 Westmeath, County 480 237, 255, 300, 352, 154-5, 482 Wexford, County 166 Crawford Municipal Art 517, 530 Gallery 211 Great Famine 162, 351, 474, Flaggy Shore 356 Mountain 274 644-5 Dublin City Gallery - The geology 345, 608, 662 Flagstaff Viewpoint 520 Hugh Lane 87-90 Great Newtown Head 179 Flight of the 458, Giant’s Causeway 606, Great 148-9 Gallery of 608, 611, 610 642-3 Greencastle 464-5 Photography 82 Glandore 236-7 folk villages 311, 332, 385, Greyabbey 567-8 Glebe House & Gallery Glanmore Lake 252 441, 477, 634-5 456 greyhound racing 124, Glen of Aherlow 310 food 44-7, 217, 673, 46 513 220, 668 Glenariff 616 black pudding 45, 233, Grianán of Aileách 459 216-17 211 Glenarm 616-17 Gubbeen Farm 242 Glenbarrow 492 cooking courses 149, Limerick City Gallery of Guinness 48, 83, 116, 23 182, 225, 543 Glenbeg Lough 252 Art 301 Guinness Book of Records smokehouses 223, 477 Glencolumbcille 441-2 164 349, 387 Model 417 Glendalough 13, 140-7, 141, Gurteen Bay 52, 387 specialities 45, 242 , National Craft Gallery 13 142-3 446-7 football 666-7 195-6 accommodation 146 Fore Valley 481 Old Market House Arts activities 144-6 forts 27, see also castles, Centre 182 history 140 H ruins Russell Gallery 356 sights 141-4 Hag’s Head 344 Beal Ború 334 Steensons 617 tours 146 Handel, GF 121 Caherconnell Fort 353 Visual Centre for Glengarriff 247-9 health 673 Charles Fort 229 Contemporary Art 188 Glengesh Pass 442 Healy Pass 249 Donegal Point 340 Galtee Mountains 310 Gleniff Horseshoe Valley Healy Pass Road 247 Dún Aengus 373 Galway Arts Festival 29 429 Heaney, Seamus 661 Dún Beag Fort 288-9 Galway city 13, 359-71, Wedge Tomb Henry VIII 642 Dún Chonchúir 379 360-1, 13 352-3 heritage centres, see also Dún Dúchathair 374 accommodation 363-5 Glenmacnass 139 museums Dún Eochla 373 drinking & nightlife 367 147 Abbeyleix Heritage House & Museum 490 Dún Eoghanachta 374 entertainment 367 Glens of Antrim 614-17 Adare Heritage Centre Duncannon Fort 167-8 festivals & events 369 Glenties 444 307 Enclosure of King food 365-7 Glenveagh National Park Ardara Heritage Centre Laoghaire 505 455 history 359 442 Fort Dunree 461 Goldsmith Country 479 information 370 Athenry Heritage Centre Goleen 242-3 Gráinne’s Fort 505 shopping 370 395 Grianán of Aileách 459 sights 359-63 golf 14, 27, 40, 667-8, 14, 41 Brian Ború Heritage Griananlaghna 334 tours 363 Antrim, County 604 Centre 333 Knockalla Fort 459 travel to/from 370 Belfast 544 Cashel Heritage Town Magazine Fort 95 travel within 371 Clare, County 342 Centre Museum 311 McArt’s Fort 543 359 Cork, County 222, 229 Clare Heritage Centre Ned’s Point Fort 461 Galway, County 56, 357-96 Donegal, County 457, 351 486 accommodation 357 459, 462 Colmcille Heritage Centre 456 222 climate 357 Down, County 574 Connemara Heritage & Foynes 306 festivals & events 369, Kerry, County 270, 296 History Centre 388 fracking 664 368-9 Kildare, County 153 696 heritage centres continued St Laurence’s Gate 513 internet access 674 Kilkenny city 17, 193-9, East Clare Heritage Taafe’s Castle 518 IRA 650-1 194, 17 Centre 334 Thompson Pump House Ireland’s Eye 133 Kilkenny, County 54, Granuaile Heritage & Graving Dock 537 Ireland’s Teardrop 241 192-206 Centre 403 Tobar Éinne 380 Irish 386, 684-8 highlights 160-1, 160-1 Holy Trinity Heritage history 640-52 courses 441-2, 557 Bay 386

INDEX INDEX Centre 518 hitching 682 Irish Museum of Modern Killadoon 402 Inishbofin Heritage holidays 675 Art 86 Killaloe 333-4 Museum 390 Holy Island 335 Irish place names 522 Killarney 255-60, 256, Irish National Heritage

H-L 262-3 Park 162-3 Home Rule 646-7 itineraries 32-6 169 Belfast 531 Killarney Lakes 260 Kenmare Heritage Centre 278 167-9 Dublin 65 260, 265, 265 449 Lismore Heritage Centre Killary Harbour 392-3 186 horse racing 668, 30, 268-9, 273, 368-9 J 272 Old Barracks Heritage Jackson, Andrew 618 Centre 270 Curragh 155 Killybegs 438-9 Janus Stone 630, 627 Skibbereen Heritage Dublin 124 Killykeen Forest Park 521 Jerpoint Abbey 201 Centre 237 events 28, 29, 30, 180, Kilmacanogue 148-9 283, 369, 500 jewellery 370 Kilmacduagh 396 569 Irish National Stud & Johnstown Castle Gardens Gaol 86 St George’s Heritage Gardens 156 159, 162 Kilmallock 306-7 Centre 468 Kilbeggan 479 Joyce, James 81, 90, 99, Kilmore Quay 166-7 132, 638, 659, see also St Mullins Heritage Tipperary 309 Kilmurvey Beach 373 Bloomsday, Ulysses Centre 191 horse riding 351 Nora Barnacle House Heritage Down, County 577 Kilrush 336-7 Centre 274 362 Galway, County 388, St Senan’s Church 337 hiking, see walking statues 76, 87, 81 390, 395 Kincasslagh 445 hill walking 38, 247, 440, 576 Kerry, County 290 Kingdom of Mourne 576 Hillsborough 581-2 Mayo, County 403 K King John’s Castle 300-1 historic sites Kate Kearney’s Cottage Midlands, the 480, 483 485 353 266 Waterford, County 290 Kinsale 217, 227-32, 228, Kavanagh, Patrick 527 Carrowkeel Megalithic House of Waterford Crystal 216 Cemetery 423 kayaking, see canoeing 175 393-4 Cavan Burren Park 523 Kells (Kilkenny) 200 Howth 132-3, 123 Knightstown 271 Corlea Trackway 476 Kells () 509-10 301 Knock 416-17 Creevykeel Goort Cairn Kenmare 273, 278-9, hurling 19, 31, 124, 666, 272 Knowth 498-9, 429 502 667, 19 Kennedy, John F 170 Donagh Cross 463 Kerry Bog Village Museum Dowth 499 269 L Drumanone 475 I Kerry, County 55, 253-96, Lady’s Island Lake 166 Dún Aengus 373 Ilnacullin (Garinish Island) 262-3 Lagan Towpath 536 248 Gallarus Oratory 289 climate 253 Lahinch 51, 341-53 immigration 678 Grant Ancestral food 253 language 20, 684-8 Inch Strand 280-1, 287, Homestead 636 highlights 254, 254 courses 441-2, 557 286-7 Hill of Slane 500-1 walking 253 Laois, County 490-3 Inchagoill 384 Kilmacduagh 396 258 Larne 617 Incheydoney 236 Knocknarea Cairn 421 Kilbaha 339 Lauragh 252 Inisfallen 262-3 Knowth 498-9 Kilbeggan 479 Laytown 500 Inishbofin 390-1 Monasterboice 515 Kilbroney Forest Park Peninsula 572-3 Inisheer 377, 380-2, 376-7 495, 498 577-80 Leenane 392-3 Inishmaan 377, 378-80, 377 Plassy 381 Kilcar 440-1 legal matters 674 Inishmór 373-8, 374 Rath of the Synods 504 Kilcrohane 244 Leitrim, County 468-72 Inishmurray Island 428 474 Kildare, County 54, 153-7 472 Peninsula 310-11 accommodation 134 leprechauns 91, 422, 518 459-65, 460 359 climate 134 Inishturk Island 404 lesbian travellers 673 St Colmcille’s House 509 food 134 Inistioge 204 Belfast 555 highlights 136-7, 136-7 Innisfree Island 427 Cork city 219 Kildare town 155-7 Dublin 118 Map Pages 000 Inniskeen 527 Kilfenora 350-1 Letterfrack 391-2 Photo Pages 000 insurance 673-4 Kilkee 337-8 Lettergesh 391 697 451-5 306 food 494 mountaineering, see Island 385 Lough Hyne 237, 239 highlights 496-7, 496-7 climbing Lettermullen Island 385 Valley 386 Medieval Museum 173 Mountcharles 438 libraries 90 Lough Muirí 356 Metal Man 179 Mountmellick 492-3 Armagh Public Library Lough Navar Forest Park midges 39 Mountshannon 335 583 632 Midlands, the 57, 466-93 Mourne Mountains 576-7,

579, INDEX Bolton Library 311 Lough Neagh 586-7 accommodation 466 578-9 Mourne Wall 577, 579, Chester Beatty Library 73 Lough Oughter 521 climate 466 579 Mournes Coast Road 577-80 Linen Hall Library 531 Lough Ree 479 drinking & nightlife 466

Moville 465 L-M ’s Library 81, 84 Loughareema 615 highlights 467, 467 Mt Brandon 289-90 National Library 75 Loughcrew Cairns 510-11 225-6 Mt Errisberg 387 Trinity College 67-72, Loughcrew Gardens 510-11 Millmount Museum & 81, 80-1 Loughrea 395 Tower 511-12 Mt Gabriel 241 lighthouses 169, 178, 244, Loughrea Peninsula 443-4 Miltown Malbay 340-1 Mt 190 339, 381, 448, 459 Louisburgh 402-3 Mitchelstown Caves 316 Mt Seefin 244 Limavady 600-1 Louth, County 57, 503 49 Mt Stewart 568 Limerick city 300-5, 302 accommodation 494 Mizen Head Peninsula 49, Muckish Mountain 449 Limerick, County 55, 300-9 climate 494 217, 241-7 Loop accommodation 297 Trail 261 food 494 Mizen Head Signal Station climate 297 243 Mullaghmore 429 highlights 496-7, 496-7 food 297 52 Lower Lough Erne 629-32 mobile phones 20, 676 highlights 298-9, Mullingar 479-81 298-9 Lusitania Museum 24 Moll’s Gap 267 Lisburn Road 558 Monaghan, County 57, 524-7 multiculturalism 655 Liscannor 344 accommodation 494 murals 544-5, 596-7 Lisdoonvarna 349-50 M climate 494 Museum of Natural Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking MAC 535 food 494 History 79 Macgillycuddy’s Reeks 267 Festival 350 highlights 496-7, 496-7 museums, see also galleries, heritage Lismore 185-6 Magheraroarty Beach 449 Monaghan town 524-5 Maghery 442 centres 628 Monasterboice 515-6, 502 Listowel 295-6 Magilligan Point 601 Allihies Copper Mine monasteries & abbeys 27, Museum 251 literature 26, 527, 638, Malin Head 24, 52, 459, 641, see also churches An Creagán 635 659-61 463-4 & cathedrals, ruins Armagh County Museum Aran Islands 372 Man of Aran 372 Abbeyshrule Cistercian 583 Dublin 78, 81 , see stately Abbey 477 Armagh Public Library homes Augustinian Priory 307 festivals 29, 205, 245, 583 296, 369, 473, 527, maps 674 Boyle Abbey 475 Belfast Barge 536 546, 659 Marblehill 449 Castledermot 157 Belturbet Railway museums 90 marriage equality 654 Clonmacnoise 486-8 Station 522 Londonderry, County 58, markets 217 Cong Abbey 400 ’s Palace 173 589-603 Belfast 558 355 Bolton Library 311 accommodation 588 Cork 218 Devenish Island 629 Burren Centre 350 climate 588 Drumcliff 428 Dunbrody Abbey 168 Cape Clear Island 240 food 588 Dublin 110, 128 Grey Abbey 567-8 highlights 590-1, 590-1 Howth 133 Hore Abbey 311 187-8 Londonderry town, see Marsh’s Library 81 Inisfallen 262-3 Derry Carrickfergus Museum Mathew, Father Theobald Kylemore Abbey 392 618 Longford, County 476-7 211 Rosserk Abbey 414 Cashel Folk Village 311 51, 339-40 Maynooth 153-4 Sligo Abbey 417 Casino at Marino 96 Lough Boora 489 Mayo, County 56, 400-17 St Colmcille’s Abbey & 384-5 accommodation 397 Birthplace 456 522 Lough Currane 275 climate 397 St Mary’s Abbey 133 Celtic & Prehistoric 321, 334-5 food 397 Tintern Abbey 168 Museum 288 Lough Derravaragh 481 highlights 398-9, 398-9 money 23, 674-5 Clara Bog Visitor Centre Lough Erne 628-33 490 McCarthy’s Bar 250 Moone 157 436 Clare Archaeology McCourt, Frank 301 Morrison, Van 547 Lough Fee 391 Centre 330 measures 674 motorcycle travel 680-1 Lough Foyle Ferry 601 324 Meath, County 57, 495-511 motorsports 257 Clonmacnoise Visitor Lough Gartan 456 accommodation 494 mountain biking 42, 577, Centre 486 Lough Gill 426-7 climate 494 635 Cobh Museum 224 Lough Glencar 428, 425 698 museums continued Jackie Clarke Collection Nore View Folk Museum Killarney National Park Cobh, the Queenstown 415 200 260 Story 223 Jameson Experience 225 North Down Museum 564 Wicklow Mountains 213 Jeanie Johnston 94 Oh Yeah Music Centre National Park 135 Cork City Gaol 210-11 Kerry Bog Village 535-6 nature reserves 665 Museum 269 Quaker Museum 157 Ballyteigue Burrow

INDEX INDEX 516 Quiet Man Museum 400 Nature Reserve 166 Courthouse & Regional 292 Reginald’s Tower 175 Clara Bog Nature Museum (Kinsale) 229 Killybegs International Roscommon County Reserve 490 Croke Park Experience Carpet Making & Museum 472 Copper Coast European M-P 95-6 Fishing Centre 439 Rothe House & Garden Geopark 181 Custom House 93-4 Kiltartan Gregory 195 Kebble National Nature Dartfield Horse Museum Museum 396 Sheep & Wool Centre 392 Reserve 613 & Park 395 King House Interpretive Skellig Experience 274 Knockomagh Wood Centre 474-5 Nature Reserve 239 Derrynane National Historic Park 275-7 Knock Museum 417 417 Lullymore Heritage & Discovery Park 155 Desmond Castle 229 Ledwidge Museum 501 South Tipperary County Dingle Peninsula Museum 317 Slieve Bloom Mountains Nature Reserve 492 Museum 289 303 St Patrick Centre 571 Doagh Famine Village 462 Little Museum of Tralee Bay Wetlands Station House Museum Centre 293 Dublin 77 388 Wexford Wildfowl 451 Lusitania Museum Steam Museum 154 24, 229 Reserve 163 Down County Museum Titanic Belfast 18, 537, Medieval Museum 173 586 571 18, 551 Millmount Museum & Nenagh 321 Tower Museum 592 81, 90 Tower 511-12 New Quay 356 Tullamore Dew Visitor Mizen Head Signal New Ross 169-70 Dun na Sead 238 Centre 489 Station 243 Newbridge 155 Dunbrody Famine Ship Folk & Transport Monaghan County 169 Museums 541 Newcastle 573-5 Museum 524 Eileen Hickey Irish 538-9 Newgrange 495, 498, 15 Republican History Mountmellick Museum W5 538 Newry 580-1 Museum 540-1 492-3 Waterford County newspapers 674 Famine Cottage 289 Muckross Traditional Museum 181 568-9 Father McDyer’s Folk Farms 261-2 Yeats Memorial Building 53, 651 Village 441 Museum of Childhood 418 Northern Kerry 292-6 Fermanagh County 138-9 Museum 621 Museum of Free Derry music 120, 656-8, 122, see 597 also traditional music Fox’s Lane Folk Museum O Museum of Natural church & cathedral 84 226 O’Brien’s Tower 344, 329 History 79 courses 283 Foynes Flying Boat O’Connell, Daniel 78, 270, Museum of Style Icons mussels 270 Museum 306 276-7, 324, 644 155 Mutton Island 340 Galway City Museum 359 O’Donnell, Daniel 445 96 National 1798 Rebellion Mweenish Island 386 Centre 171 Offaly, County 482-90 383 National Gallery 79 Omagh 633-4 House of Waterford N Island 389 Crystal 175 National Leprechaun Museum 91 N69 road 306 opening hours 21, 675 Hunt Museum 301 National Museum of Narin 443 383-4 Inishowen Maritime Country Life 416 Narrows, the 567 Oughtmama 355 Museum 464 National Museum of National Gallery 79 outdoor activities 37-43 Irish Agricultural Ireland – Archaeology National Museum of Museum 159, 162 Island 587 78 Country Life 416 Irish Horse Museum 156 oysters 31, 45, 393, 369, National Museum of National Museum of 519, 582, 46, 203, 368 Irish Linen Centre & Ireland – Decorative Ireland – Archaeology Lisburn Museum 543 Arts & History 92 78 Irish Museum of Modern National Photographic National Museum of P Art 86 Archive 82 Ireland – Decorative parks & gardens 193-4, Irish National Famine Newmills Corn & Flax Arts & History 92 see also national parks, Museum 474 Mills 451 national parks stately homes Newry & Mourne Connemara National Altamont Gardens 189 Museum 580 Park 391-2, 15 Antrim Castle Gardens Map Pages 000 Nora Barnacle House Glenveagh National 618-19 Photo Pages 000 362-3 Park 455 Bamboo Park 249 699 Belfast Botanic Gardens Lough Boora Parklands internet resources 21 road bowling 585, 668 540, 550 489 Ireland basics 20-1 Roadford 347 Birr Castle Demesne 483 Lough Key Forest Park Ireland’s regions 53-8 rock climbing, see climbing Blarney Castle 222 475 itineraries 32-6 Rock of Cashel 14, 310-11, Blue Pool Park 248 Lough Navar Forest repeat visitors 24 14, 312-13 Park 632 Brigit’s Garden 383 travel seasons 20 Rock of Dunamaise 493

Mall, the 583, 585 INDEX Butler House Gardens plants 662-3 Roscommon, County 472-6 196, 202 Merrion Square 78 Plassy 377, 381, 376 Roscommon town 472-3 Caherciveen 270 Mt Usher Gardens 149 politics 638-9, 654 Rose of Innisfree 472 National Botanic Carlow, County 187, 188 P-R population 639 Rose of Tralee 31, 293-4 Castlecomer Discovery Gardens (Dublin) 96 Port Chorrúch 373 Rosguill Peninsula 457 Park 206 National Botanic Gardens (Rathdrum) Portaferry 566-7 Rosscarbery Bay 236 Castlewellan Forest Rosses Point 421 Park 576 150-1 Portarlington 493 Rosslare Harbour 165-6 Cave Hill Country Park Nore Linear Park 196 Portbradden 608 543 Palace Demesne Public 274-5 Rossmore Forest Park 525 Coole Park 396 Park 585 Port-na-Blagh 449 Rossnowlagh 436 628-9 People’s Park 303 Portnoo 443 Rostrevor 580 Cuilcagh Mountain Park 94-5 Portrush 603-5 Roundstone 386-7 24, 523 138 Portsalon 459 Roundwood 140 Delta Sensory Gardens Roe Valley Country Portstewart 602-3 482 189 Park 601 352 rugby 28, 667 Derreen Gardens 252 Rossmore Forest Park Powerscourt Estate 138-9 ruins 27, 159, see also 525 castles, churches Derrynane National prehistoric sites 17, 24, 27, Gardens 438 & cathedrals, forts, Historic Park 277 , see also ruins, stone 17 monasteries & abbeys Duckett’s Grove 189 Scrabo Country Park circles 568 Ardfert Cathedral 295 Dún an Rí Forest Park Priest’s Leap 248 Seaforde Gardens & Athassel Priory 314 523 public holidays 675 Ewe Experience 249 Tropical Butterfly Athenry Dominican House 575-6 pubs 12, 26-7, 12, 203 361 Priory 395 Slieve Gullion Forest Puck Fair 31 423 Fota House Arboretum & Park 587 Gardens 222 Carlow Castle 188 Sonairte 500 & Walled Q Carrigaholt castle 339 Garden 617 St Stephen’s Green 75-6, Queen’s University 539 Carrigogunnell Castle Glengarriff Woods 74-5 Quiet Man, The 388, 400 306 Nature Reserve 248 Tollymore Forest Park Quin 330-9 Clare Island Abbey 403 576 455 Quirke, Michael 420 Dunamore Castle 240 Tullynally Castle Gardens Gougane Barra Forest Ferns Castle 172 481 Park 251 Franciscan Friary 307 Vandeleur Walled Garden Heywood Gardens 490 R Granuaile’s Castle 403 336-7 radio 655, 674 132 Grennan Castle 204 War Memorial Gardens Raghly 428-9 Huntington Castle 192 Jerpoint Abbey 201 87 rally racing 28 Ilnacullin (Garinish Kells Priory 200 Woodstock Gardens 204 Rathdrum 150-1 Island) 248 Kilfane Church 201 Parnell, Charles Stewart Rathlin Island 613-14 Irish National Stud & 644-5 Killeshin Church 189 Gardens 156 Rathmelton 458 Passage East 178 Killevy Churches 587 Johnstown Castle Rathmullan 458-9 passports 678 Layd Old Church 615 Gardens 159, 162 Recession 649 Peace Line 540 Muckross Abbey 262 Kilbroney Forest Park 577 Red Hand of Ulster 541 Pearse, Pádraig (Patrick) Nendrum Monastic Site Kilgraney House Herb religion 639, 640-1, 655 385, 646 569-70 Gardens 190 391 643 Newtown Ruins 508 Killykeen Forest Park 521 Rerrin 250 phonecards 676 O’Brien Castle 330, 376 Kilruddery House & Ring of Beara, see Beara photography 675 O’Doherty’s Keep 460 Gardens 149 Peninsula Pigeonhole Cave 402 Old Mellifont Abbey 515 Knappogue Castle & Ring of Gullion 587 Walled Garden 331 place names 589 Ring Forts 270 16, 267-79, planning 20-1, see also Roscommon Castle 472 Knockreer House & 268-9, 16 Gardens 263 individual regions Ring Peninsula 183-4 St Declan’s Monastery Lismore Castle Gardens budgeting 21 184 River Erne 471 186 first-time visitors 22-3 St Enda’s Monastery 374 471, 482, Lodge Park Walled food & drink 44-8 St Mary’s Abbey & Talbot 488, Garden 154 470-1 Castle 507-8 700 St Mullins Monastery 191 scenic railways 444 St Kevin 142, see also Streedagh Beach 429 Teampall Bheanáin 374 Giant’s Causeway & Glendalough Strokestown 473-4 Teampall Chiaráin 373 Bushmills Railway 605 St Laurence’s Gate 513 Struell Wells 572 Tullyaughnish Church 458 338 St Mullins 191-2 surfing 42, 286-7 White Island 630 Schull 241-2 St Oliver Plunkett 513 Bundoran Beach 437 sea kayaking 437 St Patrick 571, 572, 619, Castlegregory 292

INDEX INDEX 641 seals 373 Clare, County 341 S Sgilloge Lakes 187 St Patrick’s Cathedral safety 675, 682 Dingle Peninsula 281, Shandon 210-52 83-4, 122 283 Belfast 558-9 R-T Shannon Airport 331-2 St Patrick’s Church of Doonbeg 340 Monasterboice 516 Ireland Cathedral 583 Shannon Banks Nature Downhill 602 sailing 242, 278, 283, 394, St Patrick’s Day 28, 546 Trail 477-8 Easkey 426 369, 369, see also Shannon 486 St Patrick’s Roman boat travel Catholic Cathedral 583 Enniscrone 426 Shannon Harbour 488 Carrick-on-Shannon 468 St Peter’s Roman Catholic Fanore 354 Shannon town 331-2 Cork, County 249 Church 513 Louisburgh 402, 403 Shannonbridge 486 Lough Derg 321 St Stephen’s Green 75-6, Mullaghmore 429 Sheep & Wool Centre 392 Lough Erne 631 74-5 Portrush 604 sheepdogs 385 River Shannon 482 stately homes, see also Rossnowlagh 436 Sheep’s Head Peninsula Saltee Islands 166-7 castles, parks & Strandhill 422 244-5 gardens Salthill 363 Tramore 180 240 Sands, Bobby 541 308, 318 Swift, Jonathan 84, 121, shopping centres 127 Sandycove 132 Estate 204, 508 Silent Valley Reservoir 576 400 Saul 572 Synge’s Chair 379 Sinn Féin 541, 646, 649-51 150 scenery 25 Skellig Islands 276 & Garden scenic drives 49-52 Skellig Ring 273, 275, 272-3 245 T Atlantic Drive 457 Tacumshane Windmill 166 Skibbereen 237-8 Belvedere House & Brandon’s Point 291 Tara 504-6 Sky Road 51, 387-8 Gardens 480 Clare cliffs 340 Tara Brooch 78 Slane 500-4 Borris House 190 Coast Road 514, 503 & Tarbert 296 49, 287, 288, 286 Connemara 391 Gardens 185 taxes 674-5 Slieve Bloom Mountains Castle Archdale Country Tayto Park 24, 505 Donegal, County 439 492 Park 629 Teelin 440-1 Downpatrick Head 414 Slieve Donard 574 Castle Ward Estate 573 Teeling Distillery 24 Galway city to Mace 52, 440 Head 385-6 Castletown House 152 telegraph 271 Slieve Patrick 572 Glen of Aherlow 310 Curraghmore Estate 178 telephone services 676 Slievenamuck Hills 310 Gleniff Horseshoe Valley Downhill Demesne 601-2 Temple Bar Trad Festival 98 Sligo, County 56, 417-29 429 Emo Court 493 Termonfeckin 514 accommodation 397 Healy Pass 247, 249 633 theatre 125 climate 397 Lough Navar Forest Hatley Manor 468 Thomastown 201-4 Park 632 food 397 Timahoe 493 Moll’s Gap 267 highlights 398-9, 398-9 581-2 time 20, 676 Mt Leinster Heritage Sligo town 417-21, 418 Mt Stewart House & Tinakilly Country House Drive 190 smokehouses 223, 349, 387 Gardens 568 148 N69 road 306 277-8 261 Tintern Abbey 168 Nire Valley Drive 187 soccer 666-7 Powerscourt Estate 138-9 Tipperary, County 55, Priest’s Leap 248 204 309-21 Ring of Hook 167 souvenirs 126 147-8 accommodation 297 Roundstone Bog 387 Spa 295 473 climate 297 Sheep’s Head Peninsula Spanish Arch 359 Turlough Manor 416 food 297 244 stone circles 236, 250, Sperrin Mountains 635 highlights 298-9, 298-9 Sky Road 387-8 306, 421, 423, 635 see 385 Tipperary town 309 Slea Head 287, 288, also prehistoric sites 286 Spike Island 223 tipping 23, 675 Torr Head Scenic Road Stormont 541 sports 666-8 Titanic Belfast 18, 537, 614 Stradbally Cove 181 SS Nomadic 537 18, 551 Waterford, County 178 154 St Canice’s Cathedral 194-5 Titanic Experience Cobh Strandhill 422-3, St Colmcille 456 424 223-4 Strangford 572-3 St Columb’s Cathedral 592 Tobar Éinne 380 Map Pages 000 569-70, St Declan’s Monastery 184 Tory Island 447-8 Photo Pages 000 579 St George’s Market 558 tourist information 676 701 tours 682 W Longford-Cloondara highlights 160-1, 160-1 Tower Museum 592 walking 15, 37-40, see also Trackway 477 historic buildings 158 traditional music 12, 25, hill walking, 15 Lough Eske 436 Wexford town 159-65, 162 326, 656-7, 12 Ardmore Cliff Walk 184 Lough Gill 426 whales 169, 236, 238, train travel 682-3, 683 Ards Forest Park 449 Macgillycuddy’s Reeks 243, 250 Tralee 292-5, 293 Arigna Miners Way & 267 whiskey 47, see also

Tramore (Waterford) 179-81 Historical Trail 475 Moyle Way 614 distilleries INDEX Tramore Beach (Donegal) Arranmore Way 446 Mt Brandon 289-90 White Island 630 52, 444, 450 Aughris Head 426 Mt Errisberg 387 White Strand 340 travel to/from Ireland Ballyconagan Nature Mt Gabriel 241 Wicklow, County 54, 135-53 T-Z 678-9 Reserve 613 Muckross Lake Loop accommodation 134 travel within Ireland Bank Walk 431 Trail 261 climate 134 679-83 Barrow Way 187, 191 Nore Linear Park 196 food 134 Trim 506-9, 507 249, 251 Nore Valley Walk 204 gardens 138, 150 Trinity College 66-71, 100, Benbulben Loop 428 North Down Coastal highlights 136-7, 136-7 66, 68-9 Path 564 Bentee Loop 270-1 travel to/from 135 library 81, 80-1 Patrick’s Way 571 Birr 483 Wicklow Gardens Festival Troubles, the 621, 650-1 Brandon Hill Loop 204 Poisoned Glen 456 150 Tuamgraney 334 Brandy Pad 576 Port Path 602 Wicklow Mountains 135-47 Tullamore 488-9 Buncrana 460 Saints Road 289 145, 192 Tully Mountain 391 Burren, the 346 Scilly Walk 229 Wicklow’s Historic Gaol 151 395 Cahir 315 Sgilloge Lakes 187 18, 24, TV 655 Causeway Coast 607, Shannon Banks Nature 49-52, 335-6, 50, 18 Twelve Bens 386, 392 Trail 477-8 607 Wilde, Oscar 78, 81, 159, Tyrone, County 58, 633-6 Sheep’s Head Peninsula Cavan Way 524 621, 80 accommodation 620 244 Clare Island 403 wildlife centres & reserves, climate 620 Slemish 619 Coastal Walkway 465 see also zoos food 620 492 Connemara 383 Ards Forest Park 449 highlights 622-3, Slieve Donard 574 622-3 Cuilcagh Mountain 632 Castle Espie Wildfowl & Slieve League 440 Wetlands Centre 569 Davagh Forest Park 635 Sligo, County 427 Dursey Island 250 Derry 593, 593 U South Leinster Way 204 Murlough National U2 657 279 Strandhill 422 Nature Reserve 573 Uisneach 478 Doolin 344, 347, 329 473 Shannon Dolphin & Ulster American Folk Park Dromore Wood 330 Wildlife Centre 337 634-5 Táin Way 518 Dublin 94, 115, 115 wildlife watching 236, 250, Ulster Folk & Transport Tipperary Heritage East Munster Way 321 265, 293, 339, 373 Museums 541 Trail 316 festivals 29, 187, 310, Willie Clancy Summer Ulster Unionist Party Tory Way 448 577 School 29, 342 649-50 Tramore 180 Flaggy Shore 356 winter solstice 498 Ulster Way 628 Tully Mountain 391 Glen of Aherlow 310 women travellers 677 Ulysses 99, 479 Ulster Way 614, 628 Glencolumbcille 441 Woodstown Beach 178 unemployment 639 Urris Hills 462 Glendalough 144-6 work 677 Union Hall 236-7 Wicklow Way 145, 192 Gleniff Horseshoe Valley workhouses 450, 491 Upper Lough Erne 628-9 Youghal 226 429 Urris Hills 462 Warrenpoint 580 Glenties 444 water sports 42-3, see also Y Gougane Barra 251 canoeing, coasteering, yachting 242 V Granite Trail 574 diving, surfing Yeats, WB 395, 418, 422, vacations 675 Hook Head 169 Waterford city 173-8, 174 425, 427-8, 659, 424 Vale of Avoca 151-2 Inishbofin 390 Waterford, County 54, Youghal 226-7 Valentia Island 273, 273 Inisheer 381 160-1, 173-87, 160-1 Vandeleur Walled Garden Inishmaan 379 Waterford Treasures 173 336-7 Inishowen Head 465 Waterville 275 Z zoos 95, see also wildlife vegetarian travellers Kerry, County 253 weather 20, 28-31, 672, see reserves 47, 105 Kerry Way 258 climate 543 Viking Ship Cruises 478 Kilrush Shannon Dolphin weights 674 Fota Wildlife Park 222 Vikings 78, 85-6, 173, 641-2 Trail 337 Westmeath, County 477-82 Straffan Butterfly Farm Vinegar Hill 171 Lagan Towpath 536 Wexford, County 54, 159-73 154 Virginia 523 Leenane 392-3 climate 158 visas 677 Leitrim Way 472 gardens 158 702

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping / Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Neil Wilson Counties Wexford, Waterford, Carlow & Kilkenny; ; Neil’s first visit to Ireland was on a sailing trip to Kinsale in 1990. Since then he has travelled most of the Republic and all of Northern Ireland, often while researching for Lonely Planet guidebooks. Working on this edition allowed him to hike the main ridge of MacGillicuddy’s Reeks, cycle to the top of Priest’s Leap, and eat far too much farmhouse cheese in West Cork (mmm, Gubbeen…). Neil is a full-time travel writer based in , and has written more than 70 guidebooks for half a dozen publishers. Neil also wrote the Great Outdoors chapter. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, , Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Fionn Davenport Dublin; Counties Wicklow & Kildare Irish-born and raised, Fionn has been writing about his native country for close to two decades and is constantly surprised by its ability to surprise him. From his home in Dublin he’s struck out to find the best new attractions and distractions, restaurants, cafes and hotels. It’s a dirty job but he’s happy to do it. You’ll also find his work in the travel section of . Fionn also wrote the Welcome to, Ireland’s Top 21, Need to Know, First Time, What’s New, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Eat & Drink Like a Local, The Wild Atlantic Way, Regions at a Glance, and the Understand chapters.

Damian Harper Counties Limerick & Tipperary; ; A Lonely Planet author for almost two decades, Damian first visited Ireland when he worked for a year in Dublin as a bookseller at Waterstones’ first international branch on Daw- son St. With two university degrees, Damian has contributed to a host of Lonely Planet titles from London to Shanghai, and , and seized the opportunity to explore the astonishingly beautiful west coast of Ireland. Damian also wrote the Directory chapter.

Catherine Le Nevez Counties Meath, Louth, Cavan & Monaghan; Belfast; Counties Down & Armagh; Counties Londonderry & Antrim Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she road-tripped across Europe aged four and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Catherine’s Celtic connections include Irish and Breton heritage, and a love of Guinness. She’s travelled throughout every county in the Emerald Isle, and has covered the vast majority for Lonely Planet, including numerous editions of this guide.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Counties Mayo & Sligo; ; The Midlands; Counties Fermanagh & Tyrone From Malin Head to Durrow, with plenty of pleasures in between, Ryan Ver Berkmoes has delighted in great swaths of Ireland. He first visited Galway in 1985 when he remembers a grey place where the locals wandered the muddy tidal flats for fun and frolic. How things change! From lost rural pubs to lost memory, he’s revelled in a place where his first name brings a smile and his sur- name brings a ‘huh?’ Ryan also wrote the Transport chapter. Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com; @ryanvb OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 12th edition – March 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 686 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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