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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Anthony Sheehy, Mike at the Hunt Museum, OUR READERS Steve Whitfield, Stevie Winder, Ann in Galway, Many thanks to the travellers who used the anonymous farmer who pointed the way to the last edition and wrote to us with help- Knockgraffon Motte and all the truly delightful ful hints, useful advice and interesting people I met on the road who brought sunshine anecdotes: to the wettest of Irish days. Thanks also, as A Andrzej Januszewski, Annelise Bak C Chris always, to Daisy, Tim and Emma. Keegan, Colin Saunderson, Courtney Shucker D Denis O’Sullivan J Jack Clancy, Jacob Catherine Le Nevez Harris, Jane Barrett, Joe O’Brien, John Devitt, Sláinte first and foremost to Julian, and to Joyce Taylor, Juliette Tirard-Collet K Karen all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism Boss, Katrin Riegelnegg L Laura Teece, Lavin professionals en route for insights, information Graviss, Luc Tétreault M Marguerite Harber, and great craic. Thanks especially to Victoria Marilyn Helterline, Martin Coyle, Mic Porter, Moore at Translink, Gerry, Tricia, Inez and fam- Michael Kischner, Michelle Coen, Miranda ily in County Antrim, and Laura, Peter and all in Keating O Orla Dolan P Paul Grayhurst Belfast. Huge thanks also to DE James Smart, R Robyn Spurdle, Ruth Yanor S Sam Dieterle, Neil Wilson for Northern Ireland tips and every- Samantha Corrigan W Wayne Harber one at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu. AUTHOR THANKS Ryan Ver Berkmoes Like a conversation over nothing in particular Fionn Davenport in an Irish pub, thanks to those who helped me Thanks to my editor at Lonely Planet and all on this book threaten to go on and on and on… those who worked on the guide. A huge thanks But a few: Charley Adley was a friend and muse to Laura, who’s the best support team any as always; Angela Cullen introduced me to all guidebook author could hope for. things Donegal and turned me on to obscure author Mike Hunt; and golden thanks to my big Damian Harper plum in the Big Apple, Alexis. Big thanks to Declan in Limerick, Gerard Mad- den, the reception staff at Rockwell College, 690 Neil Wilson ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to the friendly and helpful tourist Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, office staff in Cork, Waterford, Wexford, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Kilkenny and Killarney; to Sean at Glengarriff ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate and to Moira and Hillary at Fleming’s White Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Bridge in Killarney; to Cathal and Damian at Sciences, 11, 1633–44. BEHIND THE SCENES Lough Hyne; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James and the editorial team Illustrations pp68-9, pp142-3 by Javier at Lonely Planet. Zarracina; pp312-13 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Causeway Coast Chris Hill/Alamy. THIS BOOK Destination Editor James Assisting Cartographer Smart Product Editors Rachel Imeson Assisting This 12th edition of Lonely Kate Chapman, Bruce Evans Book Designer Virginia Planet’s Ireland guidebook Regional Senior Cartog- Moreno Cover Researcher was researched and written rapher Mark Griffiths Book Naomi Parker Thanks to by Fionn Davenport, Damian Designer Wendy Wright Gemma Graham, Andi Jones, Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Assisting Editors Carolyn Elizabeth Jones, Kate Kiely, Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Neil Bain, Imogen Bannister, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Wilson. This guidebook was Bridget Blair, Kate Evans, Sam Alison Ridgway, Kathryn produced by the following: Forge, Helen Koehne, Kellie Rowan, Vicky Smith, Lauren Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Erin Wellicome, Tracy Whitmey Richards 691 Index 1798 Rising 458 Ardara 442-3 Ballymote 423-6 Mountcharles 438 Ardfert Cathedral 295 Ballyquintin Point 566 Pollan Strand 462 A Ardgroom 252 Ballyshannon 436-7 Portstewart Strand 602 Abbey Island 277 Ardmore 184-5 Ballyvaughan 354-5 Rosscarbery Bay 236 Abbeyleix 490-1 Ards Peninsula 565-8 Baltimore 238-9 Rosses Point 421 Abbeyshrule 477 area codes 21, 676 Banagher 485-6 Skellig Ring 275 accommodation 670-1, see Arigna Miners Way & Banba’s Crown 463 Spanish Point 341 also individual locations Historical Trail 475 Bangor 564-5 Streedagh Beach 429 Achill Island 52 Armagh city 583-6 banshees 422 Trá Leitreach 379 activities 28-31, 37-43, see Armagh, County 58, 583-7, Bantry 245-7 Trá na Rossan 457 also individual activities 584 Barleycove Beach 243 Tramore Beach (Donegal) Adare 307-9, 318 accommodation 562 Barnacle, Nora 362 52, 444, 450 Adrigole 249 climate 562 Barrow Way 191 Tramore Beach Aghadoe 260 food 562 Battle of Boyne 500 (Waterford) 180 Ahakista 244 highlights 563, 563 Battle of Kinsale 227 Tullagh Strand 462 air travel 678, 680 Arranmore Island 446 Battle of the Boyne 500, 643 Waterfoot 616 airports 21, 678, 680 art galleries, see galleries beachcombing 463 White Park Bay 608 Shannon Airport 331-2 Askeaton 306 beaches White Strand 340 alcohol 654 Athenry 394-5 Ballycastle 612 Wine Strand 288 Allihies 251 Athlone 477-9 Ballymastocker Beach 459 Woodstown Beach 178 All-Ireland Finals 31 ATMs 343, 674 Barleycove Beach 243 Youghal 226 Altamont Gardens 189 Aughnanure Castle 383 Bundoran Beach 437 Beara Peninsula 217, 247-52, ancestry, see genealogy Aughris Head 426 Carrick Finn Beach 445 247 Beckett, Samuel 81, 90, Angela’s Ashes 301 Avoca 152-3 Clonea Strand 181 621, 659 angling, see fishing Connemara 385 Anglo-Irish Treaty 647-50 beer 48, see also breweries, B Coumeenoole Beach 288 Guinness animals 663-4 Ballard Bay 340 Culdaff Beach 464 Belfast 57, 528-61, , Annagassan 514 532-3 Ballina (Clare) 333-4 Curracloe Beach 165 542, 550-1 Annagry 445-6 Ballina (Mayo) 415-16 Curran Strand 603-4 accommodation 547-8 Annascaul 281 Ballingarry 309 Cushendun 615 activities 543-4 Antrim Coaster 604 Ballintemple 449 Derrynane Beach 277 children, travel with 539 Antrim, County 58, 603-19 Ballintoy 608-9, 611, 610-11 Donegal, County 441 climate 528 accommodation 588 Ballitore 157 Dooks Beach 270 drinking & nightlife 528, climate 588 ballooning 508 Doonalt Beach 441 553-6 food 588 Ballybunion 296 Doughmore Bay 340 entertainment 556-7 highlights 590-1, 590-1 Ballycastle (Antrim) 612-13 Fanore Beach 353 festivals & events 546-7 Antrim town 618-19 Ballycastle (Mayo) 414 Fintragh Bay 439 food 528, 548-53 apples 166, 585 Ballyconnell 523 Glassillaun Beach 391 highlights 529, 529 apps 98 Ballyhack 167 Hollow Beach 426 history 530 Aran Islands 51, 371-82, 376-7 Ballyhenry Island 566 Inishbofin 390 information 558-9 history 371-3 Ballyjamesduff 522 Inisheer 381 itineraries 531 information 372 Ballyknocken House 149 Kilkee 337 shopping 558-61 travel to/from 372-8 Ballyliffin 462 Kilmurvey Beach 373 sights 530-43 Ballymaloe House 225 Louisburgh 402 tours 544-6 Map Pages 000 Ballymastocker Beach 459 Magheraroarty Beach 449 travel to/from 559-61 Photo Pages 000 Ballymena 619 Malinbeg Beach 441 travel within 561 692 Bell Harbour 356 Kerry Bog Village car travel 680-1 Desmond Castle Belleek 631-2 Museum 269 Carlingford 517-23 (Askeaton) 306 Belturbet 522 Roundstone Bog 387 Carlow, County 54, 187-92 Desmond Castle (Adare) 307 Benbulben 52, 427 Book of Kells 67, 68, 70 highlights 160-1, 160-1 Donegal Castle 431 Bennettsbridge 200-1 books 638, 660, 661 Carna 386 Doonagore Castle 347 Bere Island 250 environment 662, 663 Carndonagh 462-3 INDEX Doonbeg Castle 340 bicycle travel, see cycling history 642, 643, 644, Carraroe 385 645, 646, 647, 650, 652 Dublin Castle 73-5 birdwatching 133, 240, 293, Carrauntoohil 38, 267 border crossings 680 Dundrum Castle 575 663-4, 578 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge B- Aughris Head 426 Borris 190-1 16, 609, 611, 16, 610 Dungarvan Castle 181 C Baginbun Head 169 boycotts 401 Carrickfergus 617-18 Dunguaire Castle 393-4 Carlingford 518 Boyle 474-7 Carrickmacross 526-7 Dunluce Castle 605 Castle Espie Wildfowl Boyne, Battle of 500, 643 Carrick-on-Shannon 468-72 Dunsany Castle 506 & Wetlands Centre Brandon’s Point 291 Carrick-on-Suir 320-1 Enniscorthy Castle 171 569, 579 breweries 48, 83, 218, 281, Carrigaholt 339 Enniskillen Castle 621 Clare Island 403 350, 543 Carrigart 457 Glenarm Castle & Walled Lough Muirí 356 Brow Head 243 Garden 617 Carron 353 Rathlin Island 613 Brownstown Head 179 Glenveagh Castle 455 Carrowkeel 423 Skellig Islands 276 Brú na Bóinne 15, 495, Howth Castle 132-3 Carrowmore 421-2 Tory Island 448 498-9, 15 Huntington Castle 192 Carrowmore Megalithic budget 21, 23, 678 Birr 483-5 Cemetery 17, 421, 17 Kilkenny Castle 193-4 Buncrana 460-1 Black Pigs Dyke 524 Cashel 310-14 Kinbane Castle 609 Bundoran