The : Self-Guided How to plan your multi-day backpacking trip around ’s scenic Many are familiar with the beautiful Ring of Kerry in , Ireland, but far fewer are aware that the entire route can be walked instead of driven. Despite The Kerry Way’s status as one of the most popular of Ireland’s National Waymarked Trails, I had more difficulty finding advice to help me prepare for it than I did for hikes in Scotland and the . At approximately 135 miles, it’s also the longest of Ireland’s trails, and in retrospect I’ve noticed that many companies who offer self-guided itineraries actually cut off two whole sections of the route - in my opinion, some of the prettiest sections. In honor of completing my own trek with nothing but online articles and digital apps to guide the way, I thought I’d pay it forward by creating my own budget-minded backpacker’s guide (for the WHOLE route) so that others might benefit from what I learned. If you prefer to stay in B&Bs rather than camping or budget accommodations, I’ve outlined how you can swap out some of my choices for your own.

Stats:

English Name: The Kerry Way Irish Name: Slí Uíbh Ráthaigh Location: , County Kerry, Ireland Official Length: 135 miles (217 km), but there are multiple route options Completion Time: 9 Days is the typical schedule High Point: 1,263ft (385m) at Windy Gap, between Glencar and Route Style: Circular Loop

Table of Contents: (Click to Jump To) Preparedness: Things to Consider Weather Gear Amenities Currency Language Wildlife Cell Service Physical Fitness Popularity Waymarking To Camp or Not to Camp? Emergencies Resources Getting There // Getting Around Route // Accommodations

Preparedness: Things to Consider

WEATHER

According to DiscoveringIreland, “the average number of wet days (days with more than 1mm of rain) ranges from about 150 days a year along the east and south-east coasts, to about 225 days a year in parts of the west.” Our route along the Iveragh Peninsula follows the southwest coast of Ireland. It’s often cited that the best time to hike there is between the months of May and August, when the cold has subsided but temperatures still rarely exceed 77°F (25 °C), plus more local services are available. I went in late September and my nine-day route was split into four sunny days and five rainy days. The rainy days were all over the place, sometimes on-and- off with light rain, other times a consistent rain all day. September and October are hurricane season in the , so when the remnants of those storms make their way across the Atlantic, they often influence the weather on the western coasts of Europe. I never experienced lightning or thunderstorms in Ireland, so the rain itself isn’t a huge issue as long as you pack the proper gear and have opportunities to get dry. The bigger problem is the boggy wetlands underfoot. It can cause hikers to slip, especially on any kind of hilly incline. Again, proper gear can minimize risk.

For a more in-depth look at the Irish climate check out Climates To Travel, with special notice of the temperature and precipitation grids for Valentia.

GEAR

I never got very cold, so extra jacket layers are not necessary. Everything that helped me the most was to do with the rain. You can find my full gear list and a review of everything I brought along for my hike, including exact products and brands, HERE. Below is a brief overview:

- Sweat-wicking Smartwool base layers. - Extreme waterproof jacket (mine had no insulating down or fleece material). - “Waterproof” hiking boots (any brand will submit to the wetlands eventually). - Multiple pairs of socks, preferably tall ones to protect your skin from brush and insects. - Camp shoes to change into when you need to dry your feet out (I brought Chaco sandals, which can also be used for water crossings to save your regular shoes the submersion). - Rain pants. I wore mine over leggings so I could take them off if the rain stopped, as they’re a bit restrictive of movement. - Waterproof and windproof tent and footprint if you’re camping (I had one particularly windy night that gave my tent a run for it’s money), and definitely a sleeping pad to keep you off the ground in case it’s wet and cold. - A synthetic sleeping bag. Synthetic dries easier than down. - Trekking poles to aid with the uphills and downhills, especially in boggy, slick terrain. - A portable battery pack to recharge your phone, especially if you plan on using your phone for picture-taking or consulting maps. - Rain cover for your backpack. - Dry bags or some other method of keeping valuables inside your pack safe from moisture. - Sunscreen - don’t let the cloudiness fool you. - Permethrin. I read about the prevalence of ticks and sprayed all my clothes and tent down with repellant prior to my trip. I never had an issue, and of course can’t be sure whether that’s because of my precautions, or if it turns out ticks just aren’t a huge concern after all. - First Aid Kit - Trowel - As always, a map and compass, and the ability to read them. Keep in mind it can be very different in the summer, and you may want to add shorts and extra water to your list. I only carried two liters and never needed to use my water filter or iodine drops to collect from natural water sources because the route goes through towns often enough to resupply, but in warmer weather when staying hydrated is key, I might have been glad I brought them.

Many people opt to have their gear transported from one accommodation to the next via a car service, while they hike with just a day pack of essentials. If you’re a purist about backpacking, you’ll want to carry all your own gear. If you’re looking for a more relaxed holiday, and especially if you’re not camping, you might prefer not to have a big heavy pack on your back every day. Some folks think in order to take advantage of a baggage service, they need to book their tours with a company who will also charge you to book all your accommodations and other logistics. We self-guided hikers know that isn’t necessary, right? You can hit up a baggage transfer service yourself directly and have them take care of it for you without the middle man. One such service is The Pathway Porter. If you’re staying in B&Bs, many of them will also coordinate your baggage transfer for you for an additional fee. Amenities You will walk through towns with markets and accommodations so often that you need not overpack too much extra food or be concerned about having an injury far from civilization. The following towns will allow you to resupply: , Glenbeigh, , Waterville, , . There may not always be bathrooms nearby, however, so pack a trowel and follow Leave No Trace principles. Currency Ireland uses the Euro. Northern Ireland uses the British Pound, so if you’ve made a pitstop in somewhere like Belfast, you’ll need to exchange to local currency on your way towards Kerry. Language The Irish mostly speak English. As my tour guide in explained, they are encouraged to learn Irish in school, but most kids don’t see how it will serve them and don’t put much effort into it. You will see a ton of road signs with Irish writing, but shouldn’t run into anyone who speaks only Irish and no English. You might, however, have trouble understanding the accent from time to time, or be confronted with phrases of slang you don’t recognize. As with any destination, brushing up on a few local phrases is always a good idea before arrival. The most important one in the origin country of Guinness, of course, is “Cheers!”, for which one might say “Sláinte” (pronounced “slawn-cha”, which translates to “health”). Wildlife There are no major predators to be worried about on The Kerry Way. The only real concern might be ticks, for which you can take precaution by spraying your clothes with permethrin and wearing tall socks so as to leave skin unexposed. Be vigilant when crossing farmland with livestock, mainly cows and sheep. Wild animals you might encounter, though, according to The Dunloe, include the red deer, bank vole, pine marten, silka deer, squirrels, rabbits, badgers, hedgehogs, the Irish hare, grey seals, dolphins, minke whales, beaked whales, leatherback turtles, plus hundreds of bird species. Cell Service Depending on your cell carrier, you may be able to opt into a worldwide travel plan. I have Verizon here in America, and the TravelPass was too expensive at $10/day. I thought about getting GoogleFi, which I’ve heard great things about, but waited too long to sort it out and ended up just getting a local SIM card that worked in all the countries I was visiting. Having a lot of data was important to me since I was hiking and camping and would rarely have WiFi access. I wanted to be able to chronicle my adventures on social media, access maps and weather, and use my browser to search anything I might get confused about. I paid £30 at a Tesco in Glasgow for 20GB of data for one month. I used much less data than I thought I would for the three hikes I did that month, so I could have bought a cheaper option. If you want to grab a SIM card in Ireland, they’re usually at airports and convenience stores. Don’t rely on the airport in Kerry, however, for any amenities - it’s very small! Physical Fitness The Kerry Way doesn’t reach high elevations, so altitude sickness is not a concern. There is no climbing involved, except for small stepladders to help you cross over paddock fences. There are plenty of hills to ascend and descend, so cardiovascular fitness and worn-in trail legs are essential. If you go with my 9-Day route option, some of the days are also very long, the longest being about 19 miles, so endurance is important. I saw people of all ages on the trail. Popularity I can’t speak for the summertime, when I’m sure many more people are on the trail. It is known to be quite popular. But in September, I only crossed paths with a handful of other hikers. There was a group of 8 from Australia, a retired solo hiker from New Zealand, a young couple from Bulgaria, a young solo hiker from , and two backpacker girls from Thailand. My assumption is that, in comparison to other more well-known trails I’ve done like the West Highland Way or Hadrian’s Wall, The Kerry Way must be less overrun and a bit more peaceful even in peak season, though in town you will run into tourists driving the Ring of Kerry.

Waymarking This trail is very well marked, I can’t remember a time when I was unable to find the route. Usually the marking is a yellow- painted symbol of a little hiker man stenciled onto a wooden post about knee-high, so it’s easy to see from afar where the next post is. The only potential issue could be if the weather is bad and the air around you is fogged up, preventing long- distance sight. Most of the time the trail beneath your feet is the only option anyway though. There are two sections where being able to spot the posts is extra helpful and I would be nervous about low visibility: Day 2 between Black Valley and Glencar, because there is not always a clear trail beneath your feet on the two mountain passes you cross that day, and Day 5 from Cahersiveen and Waterville, because it is a steep scramble along a ridgeline in wet boggy terrain, and you really don’t want the added hassle of not being able to see where you’re going. To Camp or Not to Camp? When I set out on this trip (which included multiple trails), my goal was to camp as many days as possible. I managed to pull off camping every night on the West Highland Way and Hadrian’s Wall, but on The Kerry Way I only camped about half the time. In many of the towns you end up in at the end of each section, campgrounds are not available. You are allowed to camp outside of designated spots as long as you ask permission from the owner of the land, which means tracking down the farmer or whoever it may be. If you’re familiar with the rules and restrictions of wildcamping in Ireland and feel comfortable with it, you could conceivably camp the entire way, but have a backup plan. The second thing you’ll have to contend with is rain and wet ground, which after awhile really preys on morale, and none of the campsites have drying rooms for gear. I ended up grabbing hostels and a couple B&Bs on the worst days.

Here are four articles I used to help me strategize wildcamping, when I thought I still might: The Unwritten Rules of Wildcamping - Tough Soles Camping Out In Ireland (Kerry Way) - Lonely Planet The Complete Guide to Camping in Kerry - Outsider Wildcamping Spots, Map of Ireland - Total Camping Ireland Emergencies In case of emergency on the trail, dial Emergency Services (999 or 112) and ask for Mountain Rescue. Read up on best practices for mountain safety in Kerry in advance over at the Kerry Mountain Rescue website. You may not always have cell reception in more remote areas of the trail, so think about investing in a Spot Tracker or other SOS device. Inform someone of your itinerary so if you don’t turn up where you said you would be, they’ll know something’s up.

For any active adventure abroad, I recommend buying travel insurance in case of cancelled flights, lost baggage, injury, sickness, etc. I went with World Nomads for this trip because they have an Explorer Plan that covers extra circumstances, like mountain rescues and evacuations. Resources

Apps I used the Waymarked Trails app for guidance on The Kerry Way, which can be downloaded from the Apple Store or Google Play. You do have to pay $8.99 in-app for full access to The Kerry Way maps, but it was so worth it. In fact I would even say it had better usability than the GAIA app, which is my usual go-to. Like with GAIA, you can follow your progress on the interactive map even when offline, but unlike GAIA you can also read about what’s in store for each section in terms of terrain, the history behind local points of interest, and even find accommodation options.

If you would like to use GAIA or another app and require GPX tracks, you can find them for download on the Walking The Kerry Way website.

Books/Maps I didn’t use any guidebook because there simply weren’t that many options and it was expensive to ship to America (I guess I could have looked harder upon arrival in Ireland), but I did meet someone on the trail that had this one from Rucksack Readers called The Kerry Way. They let me flip through it and it looked quite thorough. A few more guidebook options and ordinance survey maps are listed here and here. Websites KerryWay.com was very helpful to me during the planning process, particularly the portion of the site dedicated to recommended accommodation options along each section of the route.

Walking The Kerry Way is a another helpful one, particularly for route descriptions.

Blogs The folks behind Tough Soles set out to hike all 42 National Waymarked Trails in Ireland - congratulations on their completion of the quest in 2019! I often referenced the day-by-day recaps they posted in their Part 1 and Part 2 series on The Kerry Way when I was on-trail and wanted to know what the next day had in store.

Getting There // Getting Around

Getting to the Start of the Route

The route begins and ends in Killarney, regardless of whether you decide to go clockwise or counterclockwise. The closest airport to Killarney is the , which is quite small and doesn’t have inbound flights direct from many locations, so you may need to fly into another bigger city first and then take a short domestic flight to Kerry Airport. I flew into Dublin myself (for no reason other than I wanted to see Dublin; you could also consider the International Airport, Shannon International Airport, or, if you’re coming from the UK, taking a boat instead of a flight), then took a cheap one hour flight to Kerry. If you’d rather not do another flight after arriving in Ireland, you could rent a car, take a train to Kerry via Irish Rail, a bus via Bus Eireann, or a ferry via a variety of ports, all of which may be more entertaining but obviously take longer and are more expensive. I thought about doing one of these but read on TripAdvisor that it’s not worth it because it’s not very scenic until you actually arrive in Kerry. More information on all of these options can be found on Killarney’s website.

Once I arrived at Kerry Airport I still needed to get to Killarney, which is about a 20 minute drive. Taxis wait at the airport to bring you there, but the driver I spoke to was charging €30, so I waited for the bus instead. Bus Éireann operates the route, which costs €6. You can check timetables on their website.

*Another note about Kerry Airport - my return flight after the hike was at 9:00AM, and when I arrived early thinking I’d need to go through a lengthy check-in process, they weren’t even open yet. When they did open, they didn’t open the cafe or any food kiosks. Letting you know in case you like to get coffee or breakfast at the airport!

The bus will drop you off at the bus station in the center of Killarney, and you’ll need to find your accommodation from there. Most hostels and B&Bs are walkable from the bus station, but you can also ask the clerk at the information desk to call you a taxi. Transportation Along the Ring of Kerry

If you hit a snag on the trail and need transportation to help you skip a section of the route, in addition to Bus Éireann, Local Link has you covered. On my Day 5 from Cahersiveen to Waterville the weather was terrible; nonstop rain was projected all day, visibility was low, and that treacherous ridge was bogged down and slippery. I hiked for awhile and then decided to turn back and take Local Link to Waterville instead. I was glad they made it so easy, affordable, and painless since I was already beating myself up about skipping a section!

Transport For Ireland is a great resource to search for all local transportation options.

The Route

Here I will detail my 9-day counter-clockwise route along The Kerry Way, including all the places I stayed. There are a number of ways you might combine or stretch sections out to create a shorter or longer itinerary, and some hikers choose to go clockwise, perhaps depending on what the weather looks like upon their arrival. You might also choose to add in a rest day somewhere along the trail. Other accommodation options can be found on the Kerry Way website, if any of mine are unsuitable for your travel style or happen to be booked full. Campsites are not listed there, however. I think I’ve compiled the best list of official campsite options below.

Jump To: Day 1: Killarney to Black Valley Day 2: Black Valley to Glencar Day 3: Glencar to Glenbeigh Day 4: Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen Day 5: Cahersiveen to Waterville Day 6: Waterville to Day 7: Caherdaniel to Sneem Day 8: Sneem to Kenmare Day 9: Kenmare to Killarney

This map is meant as a visual aid, not for navigational purposes

Day 0: Night before the trail Accommodation: Killarney Flesk Camping, €11.50

This campsite is about a 30 minute walk from where the bus drops you off, so you may want to get a taxi if you’re saving all your walking energy up for the trail, but it’s located right at the start of the Kerry Way. Literally you just cross the street and start walking, you’re already there. There’s a hotel next door that allows non-guests into the bar and restaurant, a Chinese restaurant on the other side, and a convenience store a block away. I stocked up on groceries there for my hike (they had plenty of protein bars - my favorite is the Irish “Fulfill” bar). The center of Killarney town has tons of amenities, it’s quite a big city compared to many of the villages you’ll visit throughout the Way. Day 1: Killarney to Black Valley Official Mileage: 14 miles (22.5km) My Tracker: 12.9 miles Accommodation: Black Valley Hostel, €19.50

The trail begins in Killarney and brings you quickly through a forest alongside Lough Leanne to reach , a 19th century mansion with 65 rooms. It was gifted to the nation of Ireland in 1932 along with all it’s thousands of acres, which formed the basis of the ’s very first national park - . Arriving here felt almost like a ceremonial gateway into the park, and it wasn’t long before I saw a herd of Killarney’s famous native red deer. Next up is , shrouded in what felt like rainforest, and then a steep climb above and around it. A brief traipse through the dark forest ends abruptly when you burst out into an open valley, and for me, because the sun was shining and all was alive with color, it felt like I’d been sucked into some kind of time warp and spat back out in a different location. I loved the view of the black mountains in the distance, the yellow Furze flowers in full bloom (I later found out these are rather prickly - don’t get too close!), and the bright trickling streams. After about the first 8 miles, you reach the spot hikers call “The Split” - this is where, on the last day returning to Killarney from Kenmare, you’ll close the loop and then have to retrace your steps back through the same 8 miles again to reach town (many people hitchhike back to Killarney from The Split instead). Here you’ll see a sign directing you either left towards Kenmare (the clockwise route) or right towards Black Valley (the counter-clockwise route). As you walk towards Black Valley, you’ll come upon a picturesque old church (in fact I saw a photographer pull over to take pictures here) next to a bridge with a stream running under it. Again you head left, not over the bridge. Soon you’ll find yourself following along the upper lake, framed by beautiful mountains, and walk through a somewhat exposed valley. This was the hottest day of my walk, and this valley section was the only time in the nine days where I was inordinately thirsty. Thankfully Lord Brandon's Cottage is just ahead, a nice cafe to relax and have a cold drink, sandwich, soup, or ice cream. Boats are also docked here to take people back to Killarney via the lake. Black Valley Hostel isn’t far, though, so if you’re budget- minded and don’t feel like stopping for a snack, your accommodation awaits. It’s mainly road walking to get there, and the hostel isn’t the first building in the village, so if your feet are hurting, patience is a virtue. The hostel itself has a great view of Black Valley and a little shop where you can pick up snacks or blister plasters.

Muckross House Killarney National Park Derrycunnihy Church “Furze” - prickly flowers Day 2: Black Valley to Lough Acoose/Glencar Official Mileage: 10-12 miles (16-19km), (two route options) My Tracker: 11.6 miles Accommodation: Lake View Camping, €8

My favorite day of the entire trek, and the most mountainous. MacGillycuddy's Reeks envelop the highest mountain in Ireland, . You won’t be climbing Carrauntoohil, but you’ll have a view of it and dozens of other peaks as you make your way towards Glencar, ascending and descending two mountain passes (note that in-between the two passes there is a cafe called Cooky Monster Cafe, but it doesn’t open until noon). I was fortunate that this was another sunny day, so my views were green and expansive. Even though you often pass farmland and houses, this felt like the wildest day of the trek. I could see where it might be treacherous in sketchy weather, as the wind can whip especially hard here. A hiker I met who did try to summit Carrauntoohil said he stopped short because the wind was just too insane, he had to lie down at one point to keep from blowing over. It was more mild for me along the Kerry Way, but I still experienced enough wind that it should have been a warning of things to come - when I pitched my tent at Lake View, a B&B run by the family that owns Carrauntoohil, the wind was so forceful that it kept pulling my gear away from me before I could stake it down, and as I slept that night it collapsed on me several times. I’ve never had a problem with this tent anywhere else. This isn’t a complaint about the accommodation, just a note about the location - it borders Lough Acoose and sits on a raised platform-like piece of land overlooking the lake and mountain vistas in every direction. It’s absolutely stunning, but also creates a wind tunnel if it’s a particularly blustering night. The owners are incredibly friendly and accommodating, and will cook you a delicious traditional Irish meal on request. Note that Lough Acoose lies a few miles prior to the actual town of Glencar, so if you stop short here like I did (I wanted a campsite with a great view; the town of Glencar isn’t a particularly scenic) instead of continuing on to, say, the Climbers Inn, you’ll end up adding about 2.5 miles onto tomorrow’s hike. You’ll have to make this decision after descending the second mountain pass, which brings you to a fork where you pick between turning right to go towards the accommodations on Lough Acoose via a paved road, or left which is the more forested option straight into Glencar. There are no amenities at Lough Acoose or Glencar that I know of, besides what your campsite, hostel, or B&B can offer you in-house.

Sunrise at Black Valley Leaving Black Valley Mountain Pass 1 Mountain Pass 2, overlooking Lough Acoose Day 3: Glencar to Glenbeigh Official Mileage: 11 miles (17.5km) My Tracker: 12 miles Accommodation: Glenross Camping & Caravan Park, €11

This day was a bit longer for me than guidebooks might list because I still had to reach Glencar first thing in the morning. The morning dawned with rain, which followed me into town and then through sodden farmlands and a damp, dark, mystical thicket. After leaving the (definitely leprechaun-filled) forest, you follow the road until you reach a huge farm (there are a few long stretches of road walking interspersed throughout this day). Around this time the rain stopped, thankfully, as sheep guided me behind the farm and up onto the path that leads to Windy Gap, the high point of the Kerry Way and the mountain pass that brings you to Glenbeigh. I didn’t want to encounter too much weather at Windy Gap, and hoped to make it into Glenbeigh in time to set up my tent before the rain returned in late afternoon. Once you cross the Gap, the view of Glenbeigh is absolutely gorgeous. You can see over the entire town and also to the waters of Rossbeigh Beach and Bay, and a little bench invites you to take in the view. The descent into town is a quick one, and then you again follow the road the rest of the way. Glenbeigh is a cute town, and besides the tent camping accommodation option I chose (which isn’t in the wilderness at all but has a view of the water), there are a few budget accommodations like the Sleepy Camel and more expensive B&Bs. There are also a number of pubs and restaurants, and a sizable market to stock up for the next stretch. All in all I didn’t find this day particularly strenuous, despite the ominous premise of reaching the “high point”. Parts of Days 2 and 4 had me breathing much harder.

*Note: some people combine Days 2 & 3 into one long day.

Forest past Glencar Climbing to Windy Gap Bench at Windy Gap Camping at Glenross Day 4: Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen Official Mileage: 17 miles (27km) My Tracker: 19 miles Accommodation: Sive Hostel, €25 (Mannix Point Campsite available in peak season)

This is my second favorite day of the trek, and I also found it the most difficult. The first stop as you leave Glenbeigh is the Fairy Forest, a whimsical walk dotted with tiny fairy cottages. After this is a scenic road walk towards , and then an ascent that brings walkers to the most dramatic view of the entire path. High above the water you follow along the cliffside with a view of the Dingle Peninsula in the distance, and tiny ant-people on the bayside Ring of Kerry drive below. If only those people knew how easy it was to get a more impressive vantage point by hiking up to where we are! As you follow the path inwards towards land and away from the water, you cross a beautiful highland valley and then enter a new forest. You pass the town of Kells (of The Book of Kells fame, which can be seen on display at Trinity College Dublin), the halfway point of the day where some hikers choose to stay overnight for a 10-day route. You’re ultimately ejected onto a road that follows vast, bright green pastureland that goes on for miles. At first these views are beautiful, and you begin to spot Cahersiveen in the distance. Maddeningly the path does not take you directly towards Cahersiveen, but instead winds through an extra few miles of waterlogged sheep pastures. It seems to take you further and further away from town before finally releasing you into the village. I found this part boring, especially at the end of an already long mileage day. My maps application on my phone said that if I had just walked the road, I’d arrive in 30 minutes. Instead by taking the trail, additional hours were added. Note that in this last section, you’ll pass the junction you must return to tomorrow to get back on trail towards Waterville. In the morning when you leave Cahersiveen, you’ll have to retrace your steps a few miles to reach this junction again. Since those miles are an endless, viewless slog, many hikers opt for taking a taxi or hitchhiking back to the Waterville fork instead. I wasn’t able to find any campsites that were open this time of year (though Mannix Point is an option in peak season), and the forecast predicted heavy rains to start in the night and continue all through the following day, so instead of trying to wildcamp I stayed at Sive Hostel. It was conveniently located right in the center of town, next to all the restaurants and pubs and directly across the street from the bus stop and a market.

*Note: if you’re arriving on this part of the coast in good weather, you might look into a trip to , the famed island monastery off of . The Skelligs are also known for their abundant puffins, and for being featured in the Star Wars films. Boatmen can be hired to take you on either a boat trip around the island, or to drop you off there to climb up the monastery steps. It will likely require that you schedule in a rest day to dedicate to the trip, which it would be best to take after arriving in either Cahersiveen or Waterville, as you can be picked up from those towns and brought to Portmagee easily. If the weather is bad there’s a good chance the trip will be cancelled, so consider whether you’ll be ok with this and able to find something else to do with your extra rest day. I also hear that many people become seasick on these small boats, so be prepared! More info on booking a Skellig trip here.

The Fairy Forest Overlooking Dingle Bay Towards Kells Pretty pastures (before the slog) Day 5: Cahersiveen to Waterville Official Mileage: 19 miles (30.5km) My Tracker: (I skipped this day due to weather) Accommodation: Golf Links View, €40

When I woke up this morning the rain was heavy and projected to last all day. I’m usually a purist and would insist on walking every step, including retracing yesterday’s trail to return to the fork to Waterville, but in light of circumstances I opted for a taxi to the fork. I tried hiking the slick ridgeline awhile, but I found it to be too slippery and visibility was low. I turned back, hitchhiked back to town, and took the Local Link bus to Waterville instead. I later met some people that managed to complete this section on the same day, so it is doable, but they said it wasn’t very fun and was slow-going in the rain with one slippery ridgeline after another. The views are supposed to be great on a good day, so hopefully you’re there when it’s sunny and dry. I was not able to find any camping or budget hostel options in Waterville, or anywhere close to Waterville, and opted for a B&B. Local Link dropped me right at the door. This ended up being a good opportunity to recharge anyway after the tough walk yesterday and the failed slog today. The woman who runs Golf Links is incredibly sweet and really took care of me, and made a big Irish breakfast - I felt ready for the next stretch! Waterville is basically a beach town and has multiple B&B and hotel options and a ton of restaurants and markets. Golf Links is a little farther from the main drag of Waterville than some of the other B&Bs, but I think it’s only a mile walk or so and she even offered to drive me there.

Sign at Sive Hostel The stormy beach on arrival at Waterville Day 6: Waterville to Caherdaniel Official Mileage: 17 miles (27km) or 10 miles (16km), (two route options) My Tracker: 10 miles Accommodation: Traveller’s Rest Hostel, €20 (I originally planned to stay at Glenbeg Camping for €8)

There are two routes between Waterville and Caherdaniel, the short 10-mile route and the long 17-mile route. The 17-miler is apparently not as scenic as the coastal 10-miler, so I don’t know why anyone would take that way except as self-punishment. I obviously opted for the 10 miles. It rained all day again, but it was light and the route was mostly flat, so I had no qualms about safety. First you follow the coast out of Waterville and into the hills where you cross through a few livestock pastures. This is where you’ll read plaques informing you of old ruins to spot in the distance. Don’t miss the plaque telling you where to look to spot the , which sit off the Atlantic coast to your right! It was just foggy enough when I was there that I couldn’t quite see them. Next you’ll ascend a steep hill that brings you high over the town of . At the top lies a Bronze Age wedge tomb to investigate, and a new view of Derrynane Bay along with Abbey Island, and Scariff Island. If taking the 10-mile route, you’ll want to follow the signs for Derrynane and the Mass Path. You’ll descend into Derrynane and then follow the coast the rest of the way into Caherdaniel, so if you ever get too far from the water you’ll know you’ve somehow gotten onto the 17-mile route. The route as you follow the beach is quite fun; you walk under some forest canopies, along shoreline rocks, and ultimately walk the sand of a pretty beach for a stretch before finally arriving in the extremely small village of Caherdaniel. I planned to camp at Glenbeg Camping, but as it had rained nonstop for two days now, opted instead for the sole hostel in town - Traveller’s Rest. I loved the comfy vibe here, but note there is no WiFi and a very limited breakfast selection. There are no markets in Caherdaniel so you’ll want to have stocked up on food back in Waterville to last you through this stretch. However, there is a really fun pub called The Blind Pig and they have a full food menu.

Bronze Age Wedge Tomb Islands in the fog Brief shelter in the trees Boats await better weather Day 7: Caherdaniel to Sneem Official Mileage: 12 miles (19km) My Tracker: 8 miles Accommodation: Coomassig View B&B, €55

Somehow this section took only 3 hours to complete! I left the hostel in another light rain, and was soon greeted by a hiker from New Zealand I’d met at the B&B in Waterville. He had years of guiding experience and only a daypack, so perhaps keeping up with his pace is what made me so fast. Still, my information said this route was supposed to be 12 miles, and my tracker ultimately said we’d only gone 8. Because of the rain and fog I don’t have many views to report back about; in fact it was quite eerie. I often felt like me and the four feet of land I could see around me were the only things in existence, like I was on some magic carpet ride in the clouds. I remember a particularly steep hill, hiking alongside sheep at one point, and checking out an old abandoned house, but not much else. The final stretch is road walking and the Coomassig View B&B is on that road, the first building on the right when you get into Sneem. Sneem is another town where I couldn’t find any camping or budget hostel options, though there are a number of B&Bs and there are rooms available above the Green House tea room. There are many restaurants, markets, ice cream shops (one of them had a to-die-for banoffee pie gelato), and a pharmacy, and it’s a popular destination for tour buses to pull over. Note there is only one ATM in town at one of the markets, and when I was there it was broken.

*Note: some people combine Days 6 & 7 into one long day.

Shrouded in mist Abandoned house Fast-paced Kiwi Sneem Day 8: Sneem to Kenmare Official Mileage: 19 miles (30.5km) My Tracker: 14 miles (I hitchhiked a section) Accommodation: Kenmare Fáilte Hostel, €20

More rain. This day is mostly forest, though it looks more typical than the mysterious, all-green- everything FernGully forests of a few days ago. In the beginning you follow narrow old backroads (that were made 100% of mud on the day I was there) past dispersed houses and barns, then visit Blackwater Bridge, where more than likely a few tourists taking pictures will join you. Turn right to go back into the forest. After awhile of tree cover, you’ll follow the trail through an exposed hilly area. This is where it hailed on my for a moment, but the weather gave me a unique, swirly view of the distant shore. Next you descend down into another forest that swallows up the shoreline of Kenmare Bay. Numerous benches and picnic tables dot the way, but the sharp winds had the waves biting at the land and I didn’t prefer to stop here. Thankfully the trail ascends back up away from the water, but stays in the forest. At about 14 miles in, I got onto the driving road near Greenane to hitchhike my way to Strawberry Field, a pancake house near Moll’s Gap that I’d heard frequent mention of throughout my trip. Then I hitched back to Kenmare, so I can’t speak to the final five miles of this section. According to ActiveMe, “from the route ascends to the spur (130m) of Lacka Hill (362m) crossing the Reen River and again the Kerry Way route climbs Gortamullin Hill (205m) with great views of the on the . From here the route goes back downhill to picturesque town of Kenmare”. Kenmare was a fun town, one of my favorites on the Kerry Way. The buildings are colorfully painted, every pub has a live band playing at night, and there are historical artifacts to check out like the Stone Circle (a Bronze Age Stongehenge-esque formation) and Cromwell’s Bridge (the oldest in Ireland). There are tons of markets and services in Kenmare, and Fáilte is now one of my favorite hostels. The woman who runs it is friendly and helpful - she let me use the laundry room facilities to rinse out my wet muddy clothes, then helped me hang them up on the line to dry and when it rained again, offered that I use the dryer. There kitchen has FREE COOKIES - multiple brands! - and the main lounge room is cozy and full of books. A little recommendation from yours truly: definitely check out the French bakery across the street from the hostel!

Mud wars Tree grows from ruins Waves bite at the forest Colorful Kenmare Day 9: Kenmare to Killarney Official Mileage: 16 miles (25.5km) My Tracker: 8 miles (I hitchhiked back at The Split) Accommodation: Neptune’s Hostel, €18.50

The sun returned! At the start of the day you spend a moment hiking out of Kenmare, past schools and daycare centers and houses. You’ll keep gradually ascending for the next couple hours as the driving road becomes a dirt road and finally a trail. Soon it’s obvious that we’re heading back towards Killarney National Park as beautiful mountain ranges return to the horizon. Our ascent peaks at a mountain pass, and looking back the way we came is a sight to behold. After another descent into a valley, prepare for a couple water crossings. One of them was particularly tricky, as the water was incredibly high and rushing quickly, and the chain rope strung across the rocks that’s supposed to give you something to hold onto had too much slack. I changed out of my wet boots and into my Chacos after this, but I needn’t have bothered; shortly after this stream is The Split! On arrival here you’ve officially completed the full circuit, and can decide whether to retrace your steps from Day 1 back through the forest section of Killarney National Park, or hitchhike back to town. Note that The Split itself isn’t a popular driving road, so if you opt to hitchhike, you’ll have more luck walking a bit further towards Black Valley and putting your thumb out next to Derrycunnihy church. Neptune’s Hostel is in a fun space with a huge mural on the front. It’s centrally located, there’s WiFi, a laundry service, a free (boring, but it’ll get you going) breakfast, and they offer discounted tours around the Ring of Kerry (which you probably won’t need to take them up on after seeing every inch of it on foot!). I picked it for the price and because some of the other nearby hostels were billed as party hostels, but there are plenty of options featured on HostelWorld to choose from, plus hotels and B&Bs too. Or you could always head back to Flesk for another night of camping! Whatever you choose, make sure to grab yourself a celebratory pint with a side of traditional Irish brown bread. Sláinte! �

Leaving Kenmare Praise the sun! Re-entering Killarney NP Water crossing

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