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hobby 1022 1032 1042

Instruction manual This household machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this household . DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: • A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. • Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watt. WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, À re, electric shock, or injury to persons: • Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children or inÀ rm person. • Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. • Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. • Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. • Keep À ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the . • Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. • Do not use bent needles. • Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deÁ ect the needle causing it to break. • Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading , or changing , etc. • Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. • Never drop or insert any object into any opening. • Do not use outdoors. • Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administrated. • To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet. • Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS Sewing for fun hobby

Congratulations! You have bought a quality product made by which is sure to bring you countless hours of sewing pleasure. Your new sewing machine features the very latest in de- sign and technology. Furthermore, it has numer- ous practical features which will make sewing much easier for you. Your sewing machine is as simple to operate as this instruction manual is to follow. Before you start sewing, please take the time to read these instructions carefully. It is certainly time well spent, and is the best way to find out just what your machine can do and make full use of all its features. If you have any further questions, just ask your Pfaff dealer, who will be happy to assist you with help or advice. We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your very own fashion ideas. 1 3 2 4 5 6

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19 Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1042

1 guide 2 Bobbin winder tension 3 Needle thread tension 4 Adjustment field 5 Spool holder 6 Bobbin winder 7 Handwheel 8 chart with presser foot 9 Pattern adjustment 10 Reverse key 11 Connection bushing 12 Master switch 13 Detachable work support with accessory box 14 Needle plate 15 Thread guide 16 Thread guide 17 Thread cutter 18 Threading slot 19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook) 20 Presser foot holder with presser foot 21 Free-arm 22 Feed dog 23 Needle holder with fixing screw 24 lever 25 Thread guide 26 Presser bar lifter 27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W) 28 Take-up lever 29 Carrying handle 30 Stitch length adjustment button 31 Adjustment field 32 Stitch width adjustment button 1 3 5 2 4 6

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19 Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1022 and 1032

1 Thread guide 2 Bobbin winder tension 3 Needle thread tension 4 Adjustment field 5 Spool holder 6 Bobbin winder 7 Handwheel 8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot 9 Pattern adjustment button 10 Reverse key 11 Connection bushing 12 Master switch 13 Detachable work support with accessory box 14 Needle plate 15 Thread guide 16 Thread guide 17 Thread cutter 18 Threading slot 19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook) 20 Presser foot holder with presser foot 21 Free-arm 22 Feed dog 23 Needle holder with fixing screw 25 Thread guide 26 Presser bar lifter 27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W) 28 Take-up lever 29 Carrying handle 30 Stitch length adjustment button hobby – Sewing for fun Index A F Accessories and needles 53 Fancy stitches 22 Accessory compartment 11 Feed dog, lowering 20 Felling foot 57 Foot control 10 B Free arm 11 binder 56 Blind-stitch foot 28 Bobbin case 14-15 G Borders, embroidering 50 Gathering with the elastic thread 41 33-37 Gathering with the 40 29 General sewing aids 25

C H Changing the needle 20 Handwheel, releasing 12 Changing the sewing lamp 63 Hemming with the twin needle 38 Cleaning and oiling 62 Hemstitching 52 Closed stitch 32 Honeycomb stitch 31 Control panel 21 Hook, removing 62 Cording foot 57

K D Knit-edge foot 58 42 Detachable work support 11 L Drawing up the bobbin thread 18 -work 47 Linen buttonhole 34 E Linen buttonhole with thread 34 Edge guide 26 Elastic 28 M Elastic stitch 31 Maintenance 61 Elastic stitches 30-32 Master switch 10 Electrical connection 10 Embroidering with the twin needle 50 N Needle charts 59-60 Needle plate, removing 63 Needle thread tension 26 hobby – Sewing for fun

O Stitch density 23 Oiling the machine 62 Stitch length adjustment button 23 One step buttonhole 35-37 Stitch width adjustment button 24 Open overlock stitch 32 Straight stitch 27 Overlock stitches 32 Stretch stitches, adjusting 23 Stretch triple straight stitch 30 Stretch triple 30 P Patchwork quilt 51 Practical sewing 25 T Presser bar lifter 17 Thread cutter 18 Thread tension 14 Threading 16-17 Q Threading the needle thread 16 Quilt and patchwork foot 58 Topstitching 26 Traditional techniques 49 R Troubleshooting 64 Repairing tears 43 Twin needle 38 Reverse sewing 24 Richelieu 50 W Roll hemming 46 Winding the bobbin 12-13 RufÁ er 56

Z S Zigzag stitch 27 Safety notes 2 44-45 Serging with the blind stitch foot 28 Serging with the zigzag stitch 27 Setting utility stitches 22 Sewing feet (normal accessories) 54 Sewing feet (special accessories) 55 Sewing lamp 63 Sewing on patches 42 Sewing problems and their solutions 64 Shell edging 48 39 Special accessories chart 55 Spool placement 12 Stitch chart 6, 7, 8 hobby – Sewing for fun hobby 1022 – Stitch chart For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).

Program Name Application

Buttonhole A3, A4/2, A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen B Straight stitch For all straight stitch needle position middle and work up to 4 mm C Straight stitch For all sewing and work requiring a needle position left left needle position, stitch width 2 mm

D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches

F Elastic blind stitch For invisible attachment and simultaneous serging. Also for stretch fabrics. G Blindstitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative on À ne materials, e.g. linen

hobby – Sewing for fun hobby 1032 – Stitch chart For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).

Program Name Application

Buttonhole A3 A4/2 A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen B Straight stitch For all straight stitch and lockstitch work needle position middle up to 4 mm C Straight stitch For all sewing and topstitch work needle position left requiring a left needle position D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous

serging. Also for stretch fabrics

G Blind stitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative hems on À ne materials, e.g. linen J Greek stitch A classical decorative stitch e.g. for borders and towels B Stretch triple straight For stretch seams, e.g. crotch seams on sports- stitch, needle pos. middle and workwear

C Stretch triple straight For stretch seams requiring a left needle position stitch, needle position left

D Stretch triple- For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials zigzag stitch E Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking and for decorative hem seams

F Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers wide G Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers narrow H Open overlock stitch A closing and serging for stronger or non-fraying materials J Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for fraying materials

hobby – Sewing for fun hobby 1042 – Stitch chart For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30). To alter the stitch width from 0 to 5, use the stitch width adjustment button (32). Program Name Application A Buttonhole Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen

B Straight stitch, For all straight stitch and lockstitch work up to needle position middle to 4 mm C Straight stitch, For all sewing and topstitch work requiring a left needle position left needle position. D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous serging. Also for stretch fabrics.

G Blind stitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative hems on À ne materials, e.g. linen

J Greek stitch A classical decorative stitch e.g. for borders on towels B Stretch triple straight For stretch seams, stitch, needle pos. middle e.g. crotch seams on sports- and workwear

C Stretch triple straight For stretch seams requiring a left needle position stitch, needle pos. left

D Stretch triple For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials zigzag stitch E Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking towelling and for decorative hem seams F Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers wide G Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers narrow H Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for stronger or non-fraying materials J Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for fraying materials

Ornamental stitches for M N O P hobby 1042 Application: Embroidery, e.g. on blouses, children·s wear and house- hold . Operating the machine Bobbin winding 12-13 Bobbin case 14 Changing the needle 20 Changing the presser foot 19 Control panel 21 Detachable work support 11 Drawing up the bobbin thread 18 Electrical connection 10 Free arm 11 Lowering the feed dog 20 Needle thread tension 20 Presser bar lifter 17 Reverse serging 24 Setting the utility stitches 22 Setting the stretch stitches 23 Threading the needle thread 16-17 Thread cutter 18

9 Operating the machine Carrying handle Lift up the carrying handle of the sewing machine from behind.

Carrying case The carrying case, which is part of the basic equipment, protects your sewing machine from dust and damage during transport. Before putting on the carrying case, lift up the carrying handle. Make sure the sew- ing machine symbol on the carrying case is pointing toward you.

Electrical connection Connect the plug of the foot pedal to the connection bushing (11) on the sewing machine and the electrical socket. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot pedal. For this sewing machine has to be used foot controller TJC-211 (220-240V) or TJC-150 (120V).

Master switch The sewing lamp lights up when the mas- 120 V ter switch (12) is turned on. The machine is now ready to sew.

220 V

10 Operating the machine

Accessory compartment Organizing the accessories The accessory compartment is found Place the enclosed accessories into the underneath the detachable work support accessory compartment. (13), that has to be opened.

Removing the detachable work sup- Inserting the detachable work support port /free arm Push the of the detachable work sup- In order to be able to sew with the free port (13) from the left fully into the holes arm, you must swing the detachable work provided. support (13) to the left and lift it out of the When inserting the detachable work sup- hole. port, make sure that it is Á ush with the free arm of the sewing machine.

11 Operating the machine

Preparing the machine for bobbin Mounting the bobbin winding Switch off the master switch (12) Pull the handwheel (7) fully to the right. Place the empty bobbin onto the of This will prevent the needle moving while the bobbin winding mechanism and press the machine is winding the bobbin. it down as far as possible. Push the bob- bin to the right.

Note: The bobbin can only be wound if it is moved fully to the right.

Winding the bobbin Pull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it. Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (2) and run it to the bobbin. Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin several times. Turn the master switch (12) on and press the foot pedal. Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the winding action will be stopped automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left and remove it from the pin. 12 Operating the machine

Bobbin winder tension Winding a bobbin through the needle Pass the thread through the bobbin It is possible to wind even when thread tension (2) in a clockwise direction, the machine is threaded. Raise the press- so that it crosses over itself on the way to er bar lifter (26) to the top position. Pull the bobbin. the thread underneath the presser foot.

Pull the thread upward through the left-hand threader slot (18). Place the thread from left to right through the take-up lever (28). Wind the beginning of the thread several times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread À rmly and press the foot pedal.

Tip: While winding the bobbin, gently push down the front of the presser foot with your finger.

Don·t forget: After winding a bobbin, press the handwheel (7) back to the left!

13 Operating the machine

Hook cover Taking out the bobbin case Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull Switch off the master switch (12). the bobbin case out. Release the latch and take out the empty bobbin. Hold the side of the hook cover (19) and open it towards you.

Thread tension In order to achieve a perfect seam ap- pearance and durability make sure the needle tension is correctly adjusted, so that the thread interlace is not visible on both sides of the fabric.

The following is valid for general sewing work: Thread interlace is visible on the top side of the fabric: • The needle thread tension is too tight . • The thread tension must be lowered. Thread interlace is visible on the under- side of the fabric: • The needle thread tension is too loose. • The thread tension must be raised. • For fancy stitches, buttonholes and darning the thread interlace should be visible on the underside of the fabric.

14 Operating the machine Inserting the bobbin Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case. When doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A and then under tension spring B so that it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Inserting the bobbin case Lift latch D and push the bobbin case fully onto pin E of the sewing hook. The bobbin case À nger F must point into cutout G.

Check: Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

15 Operating the machine Threading the needle thread

Switch off the master switch (12). Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the thread. Raise the presser bar lifter (26). Turn the handwheel until the take-up lever C A (28) is at its highest position. Thread by following the steps A to E.

Tip: All the thread guides have an open- ing in which you can simply lay the threads.

D B

E

16 Operating the machine Threading the needle Thread the needle thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

Presser bar lifter The presser foot is raised and lowered with the presser bar lifter (26).

17 Operating the machine Drawing up the bobbin thread Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is at its highest posi- tion and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

Bobbin thread Close the hook cover (19) and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left.

Thread cutter Pull the thread from the back to the front over the thread cutter (17).

18 Operating the machine Removing the presser foot Switch off the master switch (12). Raise the needle to its highest position. Press the front of the presser foot up and the rear of the presser foot down until it disengages from the presser foot holder (20).

Attaching the presser foot Place the presser foot under the presser foot holder (20) so that when the presser bar lifter (26) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check: Please check that the presser foot is properly attached by raising the presser bar lifter.

19 Operating the machine Changing the needle

Switch off the master switch (12). To remove: Lower the presser foot and set the needle to its highest point. Loosen the À xing screw (23) and pull the needle downwards.

To insert: The Á at side A of the needle A must face to the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it will go. Hold the needle and tighten the À xing screw (23) À rmly.

Setting the needle thread tension Set the required amount of the needle thread tension (3) using the markings on the tension dial. The normal setting for sewing is 4-5. For embroidery and buttonhole sewing be- tween 2 and 3. (See page 15)

Lowering the feed dog For certain sewing work, such as sewing on buttons, the feed dog (22) has to be A B lowered. To do this, open the hook cover (19) and move the metallic slide to the right-hand position (B) by pushing it down- wards and then to the right. To engage the feed dog, push down the slide and lock it into the left-hand position (A).

20 Operating the machine

Control panel All the sewing programs and the relevant foot recommendations are depicted on the control panel of your sewing machine. The various programs are selected using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) on the left. With the adjustment button (30) on the right (hobby 1022, 1032) or in the middle (hobby 1042) you can adjust the stitch length, the buttonhole density and the stretch stitches. With the adjustment button (32) on the right (model 1042) you can inÀ nitely vary the stitch width from 0 to 5 mm.

21 Operating the machine

Setting utility stitches All stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern chart (8). Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) you can set the desired stitch by turning the dial until the required letter appears in the adjustment À eld (4). The lower value shows you the optimum stitch length.

Setting fancy stitches (model 1042 only) Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) select the fancy stitches M-P. Turn the stitch pattern adjustment button until the required letter appears in the ad- justment À eld (4).

Note: For embroidering use the clear view foot.

22 Operating the machine Stitch length adjustment button With the stitch length adjustment button (30) you can adjust the stitch length be- tween 0 and 4 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required length.

“Buttonhole” symbol Between the numbers 0 and 1 you will À nd the “buttonhole” symbol. This area is the optimum stitch density for sewing but- tonholes. The closer you turn the dial to 0, the denser the stitch becomes.

Setting stretch stitches (models 1032, 1042) All of the stitches on the darker back- ground are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch fabrics. Turn the stitch length adjustment button (30) to the “stretch” symbol and select the desired stitch with the stitch pattern adjustment button (9).

23 Operating the machine Stitch width adjustment button (model 1042) With the stitch width adjustment button (32) you can inÀ nitely adjust the width from 0 to 5 mm. The required width appears in the adjust- ment À eld (31).

Reverse sewing The machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing key (10) is pressed.

24 Utility stitches and practical sewing Buttonholes 33-37 Darning 42-43 Elastic stitches 28, 30-31 Gathering 40-41 General sewing aids 26 Hemming with the twin needle 38 Lace work 47 Non-elastic stitches 27 Overlock stitches 32 Roll hemming 46 Sewing on buttons 29 Shell edging 48 Smocking 39 Zippers 44-45

25 Utility stitches and practical thread tension In order to achieve a perfectly sewn seam, the needle thread tension must be correctly adjusted. The normal setting for utility stitches is in the range from 4 to 5. Check the tension using a wide zigzag stitch. The thread interlace must be be- tween the two layers of fabric. If the needle thread tension is too tight, the interlace will be on the top side of the fabric. If the needle thread tension is set too loose, the interlace will be on the reverse side of the fabric.

F Topstitching with the edge guide C (special accessories) For broad topstitching work we recom- mend using the edge guide. This ac- cessory guarantees topstitching which is parallel to the edge of the fabric. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and is secured with À xing screw F.

Feed aid for thick seams To ensure precise feeding at the begin- ning of a thick seam, we recommend plac- ing a piece of fabric which is the same thickness as the work under the back of the sewing foot to support it.

26 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Straight stitch Zigzag stitch Program B is the basic straight stitch in Model 1022, 1032: center needle position. Select stitch D and set the zigzag stitch at Select stitch B. You can vary the stitch the required width. Refer to the marks in length with the stitch length adjustment the adjustment À eld. button (30).

Straight stitch in “left” needle position Model 1042: Some sewing work can be accomplished Select stitch D. You can vary the stitch more easily by altering the needle posi- width from 0 to 5 mm with the stitch width tion. E.g. topstitching a collar or sewing adjustment button (32). on a .

Model 1022, 1032: Tip: Blind stitch foot no. 3 is particu- Select stitch C. larly suitable for serging thin materials. While sewing, the thread passes over the bar thus preventing the fabric edge from rolling up. This ensures a good, Model 1042: smooth seam. The trimmed edge must Select stitch C be guided along the stop. You can ad- or just the stop with the retaining screw. select stitch B. You can inÀ nitely alter the needle position from 0/left to 5/center with the stitch width adjustment button (32).

27 Utility stitches and practical sewing Elastic blind stitch, program F The elastic blind stitch is especially suit- able for invisible hems; sewing by hand is no longer necessary. It is equally suitable for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics. The hem is sewn and serged simultane- ously, i.e. an extra serging of the fabric edge is not necessary. • On materials which fray strongly, serge the hem edge separately. • Use blind stitch foot no. 3. • Fold the hem width inwards. • Lay the hem back outwards so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm. • Lay the fabric underneath the presser foot so that the crease line runs along the red guide. • The needle should only catch one thread when entering the fabric in the crease line.

28 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing on buttons Sewing on buttons with a thread For sewing on buttons, the presser foot • Attach the presser foot. must be removed and the feed dog must • Place a between the holes in the be lowered (c.f. page 20). button and sew as described in the left • Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch, stitch D. hand column on this page. • Remove the match and pull the fabric and the button apart. Model 1022, 1032: • Wrap the shank with the sewing thread Select stitch D. Turn the stitch adjustment and knot it. button (9) to the required width (refer to the marks).

Model 1042 Select stitch D and set the stitch width ad- justment button (32) at “4”. • Turn the handwheel towards you and position the button so the needle enters the left hole in the button. • Lower the presser bar lifter. The button will be held in place by the shank of the foot. • Sew on the button. Take care to ensure that the needle also enters the right hand hole in the button. • Knot the thread ends on the reverse side.

29 Utility stitches and practical sewing Stitch B stretch (models 1032 and 1042 only) Stretch triple straight stitch Use this program for all seams which require a high level of durability: e.g. crotch seams.

Stitch D stretch (models 1032 and 1042 only) Stretch triple zigzag The stretch triple zigzag is a very elastic and decorative seam which is particularly suitable for T-shirts and underwear. • Serge the fabric edge. • Fold over the desired hem width. • Topstitch the hem from the face side.

30 Utility stitches and practical sewing Elastic stitch Stitch E Because of its high elasticity, this stitch is used for sewing on elastic band, e.g. on underwear; , trouser and dress waist- bands; and cuffs. • If replacing elastic, off old elastic close to its edge. • If needed, the fabric edge with the 4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page 40). • Divide fabric and elastic into quarters and mark. You may À nd it easier to han- dle if you pin the elastic to the fabric at the matching marks. • Stretch the elastic to À t the fabric, matching marks as you sew. • Overlap the ends slightly and secure with the elastic stitch. • On and pants (trousers) the elastic is sewn onto the prepared edge with the elastic stitch.

Honeycomb stitch models 1032 and 1042 E stretch The honeycomb stitch is an elastic and decorative hem which is very suitable for underwear and T-shirts. • Fold the seam or hem edge over twice and overstitch with the honeycomb stitch.

31 Utility stitches and practical sewing

What is an overlock stitch? Stitch J stretch For elastic and knitted materials, the (models 1032 and 1042) hobby models 1032 and 1042 offer over- Closed overlock stitch lock stitches which sew two fabric layers With this stitch you can sew jersey fabrics together and serge simultaneously. They perfectly. You can also sew on sleeve are more elastic than normal seams, very cuffs and knit collars. durable and easy and fast to sew. Tip: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is Tip: We recommend using blind stitch stretched while it is being sewn. foot no. 3 when sewing overlock seams. It guides particularly well and prevents the seam puckering even on wide seams.

Stitch H stretch (models 1032 and 1042) Open overlock stitch With this stitch, thicker materials and fabrics which do not fray strongly can be sewn together perfectly.

Tip: Ensure that the needle sews the right hand stitch just next to the mate- rial and not in it.

32 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Buttonholes Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric does not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recommend the buttonhole foot. Generally, buttonholes are sewn onto lined, doubled fabric. However, it is necessary to additionally stabilize some materials such as silk, organza and rayon with backing pa- per so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn. Avalon (from Madeira) is very good for this purpose. This is a special type of stabilizer that dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick fabrics that feed poorly it can be used either on or underneath the fabric. The material is thus fed more efÀ ciently by the machine and buttonholes are much easier to sew. Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive seams. Using a fabric marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always sew a test buttonhole À rst.

Note (models 1022 and 1032): Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot forward as far as it will go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5 cm apart. The red markings give you a means of determining the length of the but- tonhole.

Tip: It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as your project.

33 Utility stitches and practical sewing A

B

Program A3/A4/2/A1, Linen buttonhole with gimp thread (models 1022, 1032) To sew especially durable buttonholes, Stitch length symbol “buttonhole” e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread. Sewing buttonholes with the button- hole foot On elastic materials the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the but- Linen buttonhole tonhole from stretching. • Attach the buttonhole foot and slide the • Lay the gimp thread over the rear pro- foot forward as far as it will go. trusion A and pass the thread ends un- • Position the pattern adjustment dial at derneath the presser foot towards the

A1 and sew the À rst buttonhole seam in front. the desired length. • Clamp the threads to the left and right

• Select setting A4/2 and sew 4-6 stitches of protrusion B. for the bartack. Make sure the fabric • Slide the buttonhole runner as far stays in position while doing this. forwards as possible and sew the but-

• Select setting A3 and sew the second tonhole as described in the left hand buttonhole seam in the reverse direc- column. tion and in the same length. • Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the

• Select setting A4/2 again and sew a few buttonhole and the thread ends. bartack stitches while making sure the fabric stays in position. • Select straight stitch setting C (left nee- dle position) and sew a few tying off stitches. • Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of a pair of or a slitting .

34 Utility stitches and practical sewing 1 step buttonhole (model 1042) For the 1 step buttonhole, the size of the buttonhole is automatically determined by placing the button in the special button- hole foot R. Buttons with a diameter up to 2.5 cm (1ß) can be placed in the button holder of the buttonhole foot.

Set the machine: Stitch A Stitch length at “buttonhole” symbol • Place the button on the fabric and mark the upper and lower point to determine the position of the buttonhole. • Select the buttonhole pattern A by turning the stitch pattern adjustment button (9). Set the required stitch width using the stitch width adjustment button (32). Push the but- ton holder apart. Insert the button and push the button holder together as far as it will go. • Attach the buttonhole foot R.

35 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Pull the buttonhole lever (24) downward. • Sew slowly and stop the machine at the • Place the garment underneath the starting point, when the buttonhole has presser foot. Lower the buttonhole foot. been completed. The front bartack and the left buttonhole seam are sewn À rst and then the rear bartack and the right seam. • Stop the machine after sewing the right seam.

36 Utility stitches and practical sewing

• In order to sew the next buttonhole turn Tip: In order to prevent damaging the the stitch pattern adjustment button bartack by open the buttonhole, counter-clockwise until the “reverse” insert a pin into the bartack. symbol appears. Then return the stitch pattern adjustment button to “A”. • The machine is now ready to sew the next buttonhole. • Once you have completed sewing all the buttonholes, push the buttonhole lever (24) upward as far as it will go. • By pulling the bobbin thread, bring the needle thread to the underside of the fabric. Tie off the threads. • Remove the button from the button holder.

37 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Hemming with the twin needle Threading the twin needle Topstitching work can be carried out on • Place a spool on each of the spool pins. normal and stretch materials with the twin • Pass both of the threads through the needle. thread guides (c.f. page 16). Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwear • Lay the threads behind the thread and cycling shorts can be sewn quickly guides (15) and (16) and thread one of and easily with the twin needle. The twin the threads into each of the right and needle is available in various widths. left needles. Please ensure that you use the jersey needle for stretch fabrics! • First fold and the width of fabric de- sired for the hem. • Topstitch the hem from the face side. • Cut the protruding hem edge fabric close to the seam.

Tip: On difficult materials such as ribbed knitwear it is advisable to baste the hem before topstitching it.

38 Utility stitches and practical sewing Smocking effect with elastic threads Fine, light fabrics such as batiste, rayon and silk are especially suitable for beauti- ful smocking work. For smocking work with elastic thread you should use an ad- ditional bobbin case and wind it by hand with the elastic thread. As the elastic thread is much stronger than the normal bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin case must be set very loose. Don·t forget however, the higher the bobbin thread tension, the tighter the gathering effect. • Sew a test seam to determine the level of gather. • Mark the À rst line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it. • Each additional seam can be sewn at a presser foot·s width from the À rst row. • When sewing several seams next to one another, you must stretch the fab- ric to its original length when sewing the subsequent seams. Otherwise the gather will be irregular. • Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the seam on the reverse side.

39 Utility stitches and practical sewing Gathering with the straight stitch With program B you can gather sleeves, skirts and valances with a stitch length of 4 mm. To ensure a consistent gathering effect you should sew two or three rows of gathers. • Mark the À rst line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it. Allow the threads to extend approx. 10-20 cm be- yond the ends of the fabric. • Each subsequent seam can be sewn one presser foot width from the last. • Gather the piece of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. You determine the amount of gather by how much you pull the thread. • Secure the gathers by knotting the thread ends.

40 Utility stitches and practical sewing Models 1032, 1042: stitch E stretch Gathering with the elastic thread Sleeve and waist seams can be gathered with using an elastic thread. The elastic thread does not have to be wound onto the bobbin. • Mark the À rst gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric. • Sew a few stitches using the honey- comb stitch and leave the needle in the fabric. The needle must be in the middle of the presser foot. Raise the presser foot and lay the elastic thread around the needle. • Lower the presser foot and sew a few stitches. Pull the elastic thread evenly at both ends. • You determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull the threads. • The gather can also be altered after sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic threads. • Knot the threads and the elastic to se- cure the gathers.

Tip: The cording foot (special ac- cessories) is particularly suitable for gathering. Due to its guide grooves the elastic is fed evenly during the sewing process.

41 Utility stitches and practical sewing Darning with the elastic stitch E Darning with the elastic stitch is especially suitable for repairing damaged areas. • Sew over the damaged area in rows un- til it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.

Sewing on patches To cover larger holes well, it is neces- sary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the damaged area. • Baste the new piece of fabric onto the damaged area of the face side of the fabric. • Sew over the fabric edges with the elas- tic stitch. • Trim the damaged area back to the seam from the reverse side of the fab- ric.

Tip: To simplify turning the corners of the patch, turn the handwheel until the needle is in the fabric. Raise the press- er foot and pivot the fabric.

42 Utility stitches and practical sewing Repairing tears On tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of fabric under the reverse side of the fabric. The underlaid fabric reinforces the workpiece and en- sures you a perfect repair. • Lay a piece of fabric underneath the material. It must always be a little larger than the damaged area. • Sew over the damaged area in accord- ance with the size of the tear. • Trim the underlaid piece of fabric back to the seam.

43 Utility stitches and practical sewing Sewing in zippers For all types of zip- There are different ways to sew in zip- pers it is important pers. For skirts we recommend inserting to sew close to the a centered zipper. For men·s or ladies· teeth of the zipper. pants (trousers), a lapped zipper works The zipper foot can best. Different types of zippers are availa- be engaged in the ble in retail stores: invisible, metal, plastic, foot holder to the jeans and outerwear to name a few. We left or right, depend- recommend metal zippers for heavier fab- ing on the method rics such as jeans. For all other materials of insertion. If the foot is attached on the a plastic zipper will work well and create a left, you can also use the needle position softer À nish to your completed garment. “left” (c.f. page 27).

Inserting centered zippers • Sew the second half of the zipper paral- (concealed on both sides) lel, the same distance from the center • Attach the zipper foot to the right side. seam as the À rst half. • Baste or pin the zipper in place and • Stop shortly before the end of the seam position it under the presser foot so and leave the needle in the material. that the teeth run along the side of the Raise the presser foot and open the presser foot. zipper. • Sew in half of the zipper, leaving the • You will now be able to complete the needle in the material. Raise the press- seam. er foot and close the zipper. • You can now sew the rest of the seam to the end of the zipper and stitch the cross-wise seam.

44 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Trouser zippers • Shortly before the end of the seam, • Press the left front open the zipper and À nish sewing the over 1/8ß (4 mm) narrower than the ac- seam. tual seam allowance. • Close the zipper and baste the overlap • Baste the zipper under the overlapping evenly onto the other zipper half. edge so that the teeth are still visible. • Stitch along the basted seam. • Engage the zipper foot on the right and set the needle to the required position. Tip: To achieve accurate seams we rec- ommend using the edge guide (special • Stitch close to the edge of the zipper accessories). teeth.

45 Utility stitches and practical sewing Roll hemming With the roll hemmer (special accesso- ries) you can À nish the edge of blouses, scarves, or rufÁ es without having to iron the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents the edges from fraying and produces a neat and durable edge À nish. • Double-fold the fabric edge (about 1/8ß/2mm per fold). • Place the folded fabric edge under the hemmer and sew a few straight stitches B, stitch length 2.5-3 mm, to secure. • Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the fabric into the hemmer foot scroll. • Lower the presser foot and while sew- ing, guide the fabric edge evenly into the hemmer. Ensure the fabric does not run underneath the right side of the presser foot.

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fab- rics, the roll hem is particularly attrac- tive with a zigzag stitch.

46 Utility stitches and practical sewing Lace-work Lace inserts A beautiful heirloom effect can be achieved on christening wear, children·s clothes and other garments with lace in- serts. • Baste the lace to the face side of the fabric. • Stitch very close to both edges of the lace using straight stitch. • Carefully slit the fabric behind the lace at the center. Press these edges to- wards the garment. • Overstitch both edges of the lace with a small zigzag stitch. • Cut away the excess fabric on the back of your project.

Lace edges with corners Tablecloths, napkins and clothing can all be beautifully enhanced with lace trim- mings. • Serge/clean-À nish the fabric edges. • Stitch the lace onto the face side of the fabric up till the À rst corner. • Fold over the corners and stitch them diagonally. • Continue until all edges are stitched.

47 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Shell edging Tip: If you add a colored pearl cotton The shell edge is very effective for thin, thread at the edge you can strengthen soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabric. the shell edging and obtain a pretty It is frequently used as an edge À nish on contrast at the same time. Instead of undergarments.The higher the needle pearl cotton thread you can also place thread tension, the deeper the shell edge a different colored light fabric under- feed. neath. • Serge the fabric edge and iron over the seam allowance. • Make sure that the fabric runs under the presser foot at half of the foot width. This provides a more prominent shell edging effect.

48 Traditional embroidery techniques Combined Borders 50 Embroidery with the twin needle 50 Hemstitching 52 Patchwork quilt 51 Richelieu 50

49 Traditional embroidery techniques

Richelieu Combined Borders This very artistic form of bar and eyelet (model 1042 only) embroidery is easy to create with your You can create borders of any width by sewing machine. combining different embroidery programs.

• Transfer your pattern onto the right side Tip: Apply iron-on backing or other sta- of the fabric using a fabric marker. bilizer under the fabric. • Place two layers of water-soluble stabi- lizer under the area to be embroidered and tightly hoop the fabric and stabi- lizer. • Attach foot number 0 to your machine. • To make the embroidery more stable, sew all of the contours twice using the straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1 mm). • Carefully cut away the fabric from the areas that will form the cutouts approxi- mately 1/8ß (2 mm) from stitching. Do not cut away the stabilizer – it helps maintain the shape and stability of the areas while sewing. Embroidering with the twin needle • Embroider the contours with a satin (model 1042 only) stitch zigzag. Additional embroidery effects can be achieved using a twin needle. To avoid • When all satin stitching is completed, needle breakage, the twin needle spac- tear away large areas of water-soluble ing must not exceed 2 mm and the stitch stabilizer and dissolve remaining small width must not be greater than 3 mm. A areas in water. description of how to thread the twin nee- dle is found on page 38.

50 Traditional embroidery techniques

Patchwork quilt And this is what you do is a traditional hand sewing • Cut out the pieces of your quilt top us- technique. The method that the wives of ing templates you have bought or made American settlers developed to make use yourself. A seam allowance of 1/4ß (6.3 of material remnants has become a very mm) should already be included in the popular artistic hobby for many sewing templates. enthusiasts. • Spread these pieces out in front of you Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclu- in accordance with the pattern and form sively by hand. Nowadays, however, you small squares which you can then put have the possibility to make your creative together. These squares will then be ideas a reality in a much shorter time. sewn together and will form the top ply A quilt always consists of three layers of of the quilt. material. Lots of geometrically shaped • The seam allowances of quilts are usu- pieces of material are joined together in ally not serged and are always pressed continually changing patterns to form the towards the darker fabric side. top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto • Baste the completed quilt top to the the middle layer of polyester or cotton bat- batting and backing. In traditional quilts ting and connected to the back layer of these three layers of material are then the quilt. The quilt backing is usually one sewn together by hand with small stitch- uniform piece of fabric. es. However, it is quicker and more practical with the sewing machine, i.e. with the straight stitch. Quilting is usu- ally stitched about 3 mm away from the seam. Use foot number 0 or the quilt and patchwork foot (see page 58). When the quilting is À nished you can simply bind the edges or make it into cushions, wearable art or other smaller projects.

51 Traditional embroidery techniques

Hemstitching Hem edge sewn with seam Hemstitching is an old embroidery tech- • Iron the hem over twice and pull one or nique and can be used to secure edges more threads out from above the hem. on table linen as well as for decoration • Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew on clothing. For your hemstitching work the hem from the face side. The nee- you will require a wing needle (special dle must perforate the hem on the accessory) and coarse linen out of which right hand side and bundle the pulled you can easily pull the single threads. threads on the left hand side. Furthermore, embroidery and darning thread is particularly suitable. With the stretch zigzag stitch you can sew various hemstitching techniques such as the wale hemstitch seam, a hem sewn with the hemstitch and a hemstitch seam as an edge. Use the normal presser foot (0).

Wale hemstitch seam • As with the hand hemstitch seam the threads are pulled out to the desired width. • Using a narrow stretch zigzag stitch, sew along both of the fabric edges. The needle must perforate the area of the pulled threads just next to the edges. This bundles the threads. Hemstitching seam as edge This edge is used for very À ne, thin mate- rials. It is particularly suitable for valances and rufÁ es. No threads have to be pulled. • Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew at a presser foot·s width along the edge of the fabric. • Using a small pair of scissors, trim off the excess fabric on the hemstitch edge.

52 Accessories and needles Bias binder 56 Cording foot 57 Felling foot 57 Knit-edge foot 58 Needle chart 59, 60 Quilting and patchwork foot 58 RufÁ er 56 Sewing feet (normal accessories) 54 Special accessories chart 55

53 Accessories and needles Sewing feet (normal accessories) 0 Standard presser foot Part no: 98-694 847-00

3 Blind-stitch foot Part no: 98-694 845-00

4 Zipper foot Part no: 98-694 843-00

1 Fancy stitch foot (model 1042) Part no: 98-745 804-00200

5 Buttonhole foot (models 1022, 1032) Part no: 98-694 882-00

R Buttonhole foot (model 1042) Part no: 98-745 801-00/900

Screwdriver Part no: 93-040 971-41 Bobbins Part no: 93-040 970-45 Machine oil Part no: 93-035 910-91 Knife Part no: 99-053 016-91 Needle system Part no: 48-020 804-32 130/705 H 54 Accessories and needles Sewing feet (special accessories) The special accessories are for special sewing work. They are available from your dealer. Designation Order no. Sewing work Pintuck foot with guide 820224-096 For embroidering areas between pintucks Pintuck foot, 5 grooves 820226-096 For pintuck work (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0)

Pintuck foot, 7 grooves 820227-096 For pintuck work (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0) (needle size 80)

Straight stitch foot with round hole 820235-096 Attention! Only use straight stitch in needle position middle

Finger guard 820236-096 For all sewing work

Edge guide 820251-096 For topstitching

Felling foot 4.5 mm 820218-096 For Á at felled seams

Felling foot 6.5 mm 820219-096 For Á at felled seams

Fancy stitch foot 820229-096 Multiple uses e.g. for buttonholes

RufÁ er 820255-096 For sewing dense (remove presser foot holder) or broad on valances etc. Cording foot 820234-096 For cording

Quilt foot 820212-096 For sewing patchwork parts and quilting Roll hemmer 2 mm 820220-096 For hemming edges

Hemmer 4 mm 820221-096 For hemming edges

Hemmer 820249-096 For hemming edges

Bias binder 820245-096 For edges with bias tape Knit-edge foot 820216-096 For sewing together knitwear Non-stick foot 820240-096 For sewing leather

The following pages contain application examples of some special accessory feet. 55 Accessories and needles

Bias tape binder RufÁ er Binding with bias tape is a very easy With the rufÁ er you can make closely or method of giving fabric edges a smooth widely spaced pleats automatically while and neat appearance. For this you need sewing. This is very useful for rufÁ es, frills, unfolded bias tape about 1ß (24 mm) wide. home textiles, etc. • Remove the presser foot and holder. At- The rufÁ er can be used in three different tach the bias binder. ways: • Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a 1. Folding and securing pleats in fabric. diagonal. 2. Folding pleats in fabric and securing to • Feed the tape into the scroll of the a second fabric in one operation. binder and pull out to the back. 3. Folding pleats in fabric, attaching lace • Adjust the binder and/or the needle and securing to another fabric in one position so that the needle pierces the operation. fabric approximately 1/16ß (1-1.5 mm) When you buy the rufÁ er from your from the folded edge of the bias tape. PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions • Stitch about 1ß (2.5 cm) along the bias are included. tape. • Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound between the bias tape edges into the slot of the binder. The bias tape will en- close the raw edge automatically during sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional deco- rative effect by using a zigzag or fancy stitch.

56 Accessories and needles

Felling foot Cording foot Flat felled seams are particularly strong Cording is a technique in which pearl and are commonly known as jeans thread or a À ne cord is overstitched to seams. Seams on sportswear and chil- produce a purl seam. With this you can dren·s wear, blouses and shirts are more obtain an effect similar to braiding. Ap- durable with this technique. You can make pliqués can also be made more effective these seams particularly decorative by us- with this seam. ing a sewing thread of a contrasting color. • Attach the cording foot. The felling foot is available in two different widths. • Place the pearl thread in the foot so it leads through one of the grooves at the • Attach the felling foot to the presser foot front and lies under the presser foot at holder. the back. • Place the fabrics wrong sides together. • Select a narrow satin zigzag stitch. • Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by about 3/8ß to 5/8ß (1-1.5 cm). Model 1022, 1032: Select stitch D with • Place this overlapping edge over the the pattern adjustment button (9) and then tongue of the felling foot. The fabric the zigzag stitch in the required width. Set must be placed fully under the presser stitch length to “buttonhole”. foot. • Sew along the folded edge with a straight stitch (stitch length 2.5-3 mm). Model 1042: Select stitch D with the pattern adjustment button (9). Set stitch • Separate the fabric and feed the pro- length to “buttonhole” and stitch width to truding hem into the felling foot. The “2”. hem is turned over by the foot and is overstitched along the edge. Pull the • Overstitch the pearl thread with a nar- two fabric layers taut during sewing. row satin zigzag stitch. This produces what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different color.

57 Accessories and needles

Knit-edge foot Quilt and patchwork foot As the knit-edge foot has a presser foot The quilt and patchwork foot allows you sole of varying height, thick knitted fabrics to sew accurate 1/4 or 1/8ß seams. The can be sewn with ease. To do so select distance from the needle to the outer right the open or the closed overlock stitch edge of the foot is 1/4ß (0.63 cm) and to (models 1032 and 1042) or the zigzag the inner right edge 1/8ß (0.31 cm). stitch. In order to obtain a perfect seam Patching on knit fabrics, we recommend oversew- ing a wool thread, pulled slightly taut, into • Attach the quilt and patchwork foot. the seam. This will give the seam addi- • Sew together your pieces of fabric with tional strength and keep it from stretching the straight stitch. For a seam allow- out of shape. ance of 1/4ß, guide your fabric along the outer right edge of the foot. For a seam allowance of 1/8ß, guide your fabric along the inner right edge of the foot.

Quilting (Sewing through the top layer, Á eece layer and bottom layer of the quilt) • Sew the three layers of the quilt (e.g. with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mm from the seam line.

58 Accessories and needles Needle chart Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material

Fabric weight Fabric weight Fabric weight light medium heavy Needle Needle Needle 60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120

Needle points

System & No. Profile Point and eye Suitable for

130/705 H Light Universal needle for linen, chiffon, Needle size 60-130 ball point batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery. 130/705 H-SUK Medium Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, double- Needle size 70-100 ball point knit, jersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex.

130/705 H-PS Medium Stretch-fabric needle particularly Needle size 75-100 ball point suitable for stretch and knitted fabrics.

130/705 H-SKF Large Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex Needle size 90-110 ball point and Lastex.

130/705 HJ Sharp Twill, workwear, heavy linen-fabrics, Needle size 90-110 round point blue jeans, light canvas and sailcloth.

130/705 H-LR Narrow twist Leather, suede, calf goat skin. Needle size 80-100 point (right)

130/705 H-PCL Narrow Imitation leather, plastics, Needle size 80-110 point (left) foils and oilcloth.

130 H-N Light ball Topstitching with buttonhole silk or Needle size 70-110 point with synthetic threads no. 30/3. long eye 130/705 H-WING Hemstitching Effective hemstitching on batiste, Needle size point organdy and glass cambric. 100/120 130/705 H-E Medium Especially for embroidery. Needle size 75/90 ball point

130/705 H-Q Small Top-stitched seams for quilting. Needle size 80/90 ball point

130/705 H-M Sharp For working on microtex fiber. Needle size 60-80 round point

59 Accessories and needles Needle chart

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for spacing 130/705 H-ZWI 2.5 mm – 1.6 mm normal pintucks Size: 80 2.5 mm – 2.0 mm normal pintucks 130/705 H-ZWI Size: 80 2.5 mm – 2.5 mm wide pintucks Size: 90 2.5 mm – 3.0 mm extra wide Size: 100 3.0 mm – 4.0 mm pintucks

Fancy patterns with twin needles Before sewing the desired embroidery stitches, check whether needles can penetrate freely, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as possible.

Ornamental stitch patterns / zigzag patterns Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for spacing 130/705 H-ZWI Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm wide 1.6 mm embroidery Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.0 mm embroidery Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.5 mm embroidery

Hem stitch/special twin needle Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for spacing 130/705 H-ZWI-HO Size: 80 2.3-3.0 mm very narrow – Decorative Size: 100 2.0-3.0 mm very narrow – hem stitch effect. Well-finished woven fabric and fine batiste are particularly suitable

60 Maintenance and troubleshooting Changing the sewing lamp 63 Cleaning and oiling 62 Removing the needle plate 63 Troubleshooting 64

61 Maintenance and troubleshooting

Removing the hook Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.

Switch off the master switch (12). To unlock the hook, fold open the black bar of the hook race. Take out the bobbin case.

Note: Turn the handwheel (7) until the needle is at its highest position.

You can now remove the hook. Cleaning and oiling • Clean the hook race with the brush. • Place one drop of oil into the hook race (every 15-20 hours of operation). The machine is maintenance-free and must not be oiled at any other points.

62 Maintenance and troubleshooting Removing the needle plate Raise the presser foot holder (26) and remove the presser foot. The needle must be at its highest position. • Remove the detachable work support (13). Loosen the two screws with the screwdriver and lift the needle plate (14). • Clean the feed dog (22) with the brush.

Changing the sewing lamp.

Switch off the master switch (12). • Remove the detachable work support (13). The sewing lamp (bulb) is located inside the needle head of the machine. Turn the bulb half a rotation counter clock-wise and remove the bulb. Insert the bulb in the reverse order.

Important! The maximum permissible wattage of the bulb is 15 watts.

63 Maintenance and troubleshooting Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/Cause Remedy 1. The machine skips stitches The needle is not properly inserted. Push needle fully upwards. Flat side the back. Wrong needle is in use. Use needle system 130/705 H. Needle is bent or blunt. Insert a new needle. The machine is not properly threaded. Check how the machine is threaded. Needle is too small for thread. Use a larger needle.

2. Needle thread breaks See reasons above. See above. Thread tension is too tight. Adjust thread tension. Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has Only use good quality threads. become dry after overlong storage. Thread is too thick. Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).

3. Needle breaks off Needle is not pushed fully in. Insert new needle and push fully in. Needle is bent. Insert new needle. Needle is too thick or too thin. See needle table (Page 59, 60). Needle is bent, and has hit the needle Only guide the fabric lightly. plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric. The bobbin case is not properly inserted. When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop. Pull lightly on the end of the thread to make sure bobbin case is secure.

4. The seam is sewn unevenly The tension needs adjusting. Check needle thread tension. Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard. Only use good quality threads. The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Do not wind thread by hand. Make sure thread is pulled solidly into bobbin tension spring. Thread loops at top or underside of fabric. Re-thread machine. Check the needle thread tension.

5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularly Sewing lint has collected between Remove needle plate, the feed dog teeth rows. remove lint with brush.

6. The machine is running with difÀ culty There are thread remnants Remove the threads and apply a drop in the hook ways. of oil to the hook.

Important notes: Before changing presser feet and needle the master switch must be switched off. Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot. When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the master switch. This is important if there are any children nearby.

64

Technical Data Dimensions (w x h x d) 392 x 149 x 296 mm Weight 6,6 kg Nominal voltage 120 V / 220...240 V Power consumption 80 W Sewing lamp 15 W Sewing speed max. 900 stitches / min. Stitching width max. 5 mm Stitching length max. 4 mm Presser foot lift 5 mm Max. presser foot height 11,5 mm Needle system 130 / 705 H

Package contents Sewing machine Carrying case Foot control Lead cord Accessories Instruction manual

Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/ electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance 296-29-00 311/000E • English • Inhouse • © 2002-2007 VSM Group AB • All rights reserved • Printed in on environmental-friendly