Ipswich Lace Workshop Materials Information

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Ipswich Lace Workshop Materials Information Patterns, etc. provided to the students from the instructor: 1. Two Ipswich pattern packs of your choice. Please choose from the attached list. The samples are listed in approximate level of difficulty, with #2 being the easiest. 2. Prickings are printed on light grey cardstock and mailed to your snail mail address. 3. Color-coded working diagram 4. Corresponding pictures of the reconstructed lace and the original 1790 sample. Supply list: 1. Lace pillow, your preferred style for continuous lace, large enough to accommodate up to 50 pairs of bobbins 2. Bobbins (your preferred style) up to 50 pairs, depending on pattern choice 3. Pins – all the same size. The Ipswich lacemakers used handmade pins, which were approximately .60 to .65 mm in diameter. 4. Black silk thread, such as YLI 50, Clover 50, or Tiger (approximately 35-36 wraps/cm), or Piper spun silk 140/2 or Kreinik Au Ver a Soie 130/2 (42 wraps/cm) 5. Gimp thread: Gütermann 30/3 (S1003, 3-ply, approx. 16 wraps/cm) or Soie Perlee for a slightly thinner gimp. Or use 4-6 strands of your lace thread. 6. Two cover cloths. The one on the pillow, under the bobbins should be light color to contrast with the black threads. 7. Several short bobbin holders 8. Scissors, other regular bobbin lace supplies for continuous lace technique. 9. Wind on each bobbin about 4 times the length of lace you plan to make. Wind the number of bobbins indicated on your chosen pattern, singly or in pairs, depending on your preference. Additional supplies you might find useful: • Lace table comfortable for you • Lamp • Magnifier • Skid-proof pad, such as shelf-liner to hold your pillow in place if you have a lightweight pillow. .

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Bobbin Lace You Need a Pattern Known As a Pricking
“Dressing” a Lace Pillow © Jean Leader 2014 pricking pin-cushion this edge should be a selvage if possible — the other edges lace in progress should be hemmed. cover cloth between bobbins and lower part of pricking cover cloth ready to cover pillow when not in use The pillow, a square or round piece of polystyrene (preferably high density) about 40 cm (16 in) across and 5 cm (2 in) thick, should be covered with a firmly woven dark cotton material. Avoid synthetic materials as these will attract dust and fluff. Cut a piece of material so that it is about 8-10 cm (3-4 in) wider than the pillow all round. Make a hem (with an opening) round the edge and thread either tape or elastic through it. Fit the cover over the pillow and pull the tape or elastic tight. (If you’re in a hurry just pin the cover in place.) This cover should be removed and washed occasionally. You will also need at least two cover cloths about 40 cm (16 in) square made of the same sort of material as the cover (they should be hemmed so no bits of thread can catch in the lace). One of these is placed over the lower part of the pricking and the bobbins lie on top of it. The other cloth is placed over the whole pillow when it is not in use so that the lace you’re working on stays clean. Making a Pricking In order to make bobbin lace you need a pattern known as a pricking.
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Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif.
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Easy peasy (well, it is if you take a look at the champion ‘how to knit’ guide at www.learn2knit.co.uk which will give you everything you need.) But if you’ve 1. Pop your feet up with a cup of tea. done a bit in the past, here’s a reminder of the main stitch. 2. Using double knitting yarn and some small needles, cast on 28 stitches. You’ll need this stuff: 3. Knit 2 rows. Then, starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row etc) for 12 more rows. small knitting 4. For the next row, knit 2 together to the end (14 a sewing a pair perhaps wool needles stitches). And for the row after that, purl 2 together needle of scissors some bobbles (31/4 mm - 4mm) to the end (7 stitches). 5. When you’ve finished, cut the yarn leaving about 25 cm. Thread the cut end of the yarn through a sewing needle, then run it through the loops and 1. Insert the tip of the right needle through the first loop remove the knitting needle (fig. A). on the left needle, from front to back. Then wrap the working yarn around the tip of the right needle. 6. Tighten the yarn (fig. B) and sew the little hat together at the side (fig. C). Once finished, turn it right-side out so that the seam you've just sewn runs up the inside. 7. Just to check you’re on the right track we reckon 2.
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Techniques Represented in Each Pattern
(updated) November 12, 2020 Dear Customer: Thank you for requesting information about my lace instruction and supply business. If you have any questions about the supplies listed on the following pages, let me use my 36 years of lacemaking experience to help you in your selections. My stock is expanding and changing daily, so if you don't see something you want please ask. It would be my pleasure to send promotional materials on any of the items you have questions about. Call us at (607) 277-0498 or visit our web page at: http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com We would be delighted to hear from you at our email address [email protected]. All our orders go two day priority service. Feel free to telephone, email ([email protected]) or mail in your order. Orders for supplies will be ﬁlled immediately and will include a free catalogue update. Please include an 8% ($7.50 minimum to 1 lb., $10.50 over 1 lbs.-$12.00 maximum except for pillows and stands which are shipped at cost) of the total order to cover postage and packaging. New York State residents add sales tax applicable to your locality. Payment is by check, money order or credit card (VISA, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER) in US dollars. If you are looking for a teacher keep me in mind! I teach courses at all levels in Torchon, Bedfordshire, Lester, Honiton, Bucks Point lace, Russian and more! I am happy to tailor workshops to suit your needs. Check for scheduled workshops on the page facing the order form.
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How It Was Made
To put what text you want here just click HOWand type, to add anIT image WAS click insert > image then drag it here/resize it and delete MADEthis text Scissors Scissors have two arms each with blades at one end and a round hole for the fingers at the other. These arms are pinned together with a screw or rivet which allows them to move and be opened and closed, sliding the blades against each other to cut. They are different from shears or spring scissors which are made from one piece of metal bent in half to make two arms, each with a blade at the end. Diagram of scissor parts The blades and bows of scissors vary enormously depending on their intended use and user. Blades can have one or both points which are: round, square, curved or pointed. Bows can be equal/unequal in size, straight or offset to one side (sidebent), higher than the blades (i.e. have a bent shank) and can be shaped and highly decorated. ‘Scissorsmyths’ or ‘Scissar makers’ and ‘shearsmiths’ were active in Sheffield from the early 1600s (see ‘Tweedale’s Directory of Sheffield Cutlery Manufacturers 1740-2010’ by G. Tweedale, 2010) and by the mid-1600s Sheffield was well known for its manufacture of steel and cutlery – table knives, trade knives, razors and scissors - taking advantage of the availability of water power, skilled labour, and the raw materials needed (see ‘A History of Sheffield’ by David Hey, 2005). In the 1700s and 1800s the cutlery industry grew, particularly after the invention of crucible steel by Benjamin Huntsman in the 1740s with an increase in both domestic and export trade.
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