Learn to Cross Stitch in Just 5 Minutes!
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Machine Embroidery Threads
Machine Embroidery Threads 17.110 Page 1 With all the threads available for machine embroidery, how do you know which one to choose? Consider the thread's size and fiber content as well as color, and for variety and fun, investigate specialty threads from metallic to glow-in-the-dark. Thread Sizes Rayon Rayon was developed as an alternative to Most natural silk. Rayon threads have the soft machine sheen of silk and are available in an embroidery incredible range of colors, usually in size 40 and sewing or 30. Because rayon is made from cellulose, threads are it accepts dyes readily for color brilliance; numbered unfortunately, it is also subject to fading from size with exposure to light or frequent 100 to 12, laundering. Choose rayon for projects with a where elegant appearance is the aim and larger number indicating a smaller thread gentle care is appropriate. Rayon thread is size. Sewing threads used for garment also a good choice for machine construction are usually size 50, while embroidered quilting motifs. embroidery designs are almost always digitized for size 40 thread. This means that Polyester the stitches in most embroidery designs are Polyester fibers are strong and durable. spaced so size 40 thread fills the design Their color range is similar to rayon threads, adequately without gaps or overlapping and they are easily substituted for rayon. threads. Colorfastness and durability make polyester When test-stitching reveals a design with an excellent choice for children's garments stitches so tightly packed it feels stiff, or other items that will be worn hard stitching with a finer size 50 or 60 thread is and/or washed often. -
Schmetz Needle Guide
NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Anatomy Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar. Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded, notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine needle bar. Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. Schmetz color codes appear on the shoulder. Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm) Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type. Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type. Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types. Change Your Needle 130/705 H Damaged or worn needles result in: Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect needle • Broken or shredded threads positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. • Skipped stitches • Puckered fabrics • Damaged fabrics Schmetz Works with All Sewing Machines! • Uneven threads Schmetz needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines! Replace Your Needle It’s the easiest way to How to Read a Needle Package improve your stitch quality. -
Sulphur Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Sulphur Butterfly Crochet Pattern MATERIALS DK-weight (#3) yarn in yellow/white and tan/grey/brown 3.5mm (E) crochet hook Tapestry needle Scissors GLOSSARY OF TERMS & ABBREVIATIONS chain stitch (ch): To make, draw yarn through the active loop on the hook. fasten off: cut the yarn 3 to 4 inches from the last stitch and draw the end through the active loop. Pull tightly to secure. double crochet stitch (dc): To make, yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop, (there will be three loops on the hook) yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and draw through two loops again. double-treble crochet stitch (dtc): To make, yarn over three times, insert hook in indicated stitch, draw up a loop (there will be 5 loops on the hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops four times. front loop only (FLO): Indicates the location of where to place a stitch. Out of the two loops in the top of a stitch, only work under the one which is closest to the crocheter. half-double crochet stitch (hdc): To make, yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop, (there should be three loops on the hook) yarn over and draw through all three loops. long single crochet (spike stitch): To make, insert hook into the indicated location in a previous row, draw up a long loop (back up to the current row), yarn over and draw through both loops. single crochet stitch (sc): To make, insert your hook into the indicated stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops. -
Macstitch/Winstitch Manual by Ursa Software
MacStitch/WinStitch Manual by Ursa Software Revision: January 2017 - !1 Introduction This document explains all the main functions of the application, plus the bundled Thread Editor utility, and Symbol Editor. We hope you enjoy many hours using the program! If you can't find the answer to a query you have within this document, please send us an email using the contact form on our website, or in the help menu of your program. Jeff & Deb Tullin Ursa Software MacStitch Mac, and WinStitch for the PC are designed for making the creation of counted cross stitch charts easy, quick and fun. You draw on screen using the mouse, using your selected colors (taken from the DMC, Anchor, Madeira or several other thread ranges), and build up your design just as you would on graph paper. For the artistically challenged, you can import scanned photos or clipart, and have the program turn them into ready-to-stitch designs in minutes, at just the right size. The printouts are clear and easy to read, especially when you choose to print at the larger symbol sizes. No need run down to the print shop to get the chart enlarged when you can print it yourself! The task of creating a chart involves either designing something based upon an idea you have, and using the computer screen like a sheet of graph paper, or by importing an image from elsewhere (perhaps a photo or piece of clip art) Once the design is on the screen, you can amend it further: perhaps by adding text, removing background stitches, or adding half stitches to smooth curved edges. -
This Tutorial Will Explain What a Balanced Plied Yarn Is, and H
An HJS Studio Tutorial: To Chose or Not to Choose an Electric Spinner Introduction I've been spinning since March 1986, when I got started with a homemade drop spindle, some very coarse and ugly carded wool, and a little booklet about drop spinning—almost as low-tech as you can get. Today I'm the happy owner of an electric spinner, which I use almost exclusively. I still drop spin, especially with very fine, short fibers, and still use my Ashford Traveller when I won't be around electricity, but the espinner is my prime choice for all other spinning. This page is for those who are contemplating purchasing an espinner, those who can't understand why someone would use an espinner, and production spinners with speed on their minds. I wel- come specific questions; contact me any time if you think I can help. Reasons to get an espinner seem to fall into two main categories: Speed, and physical need. Speed I approached the purchase of an espinner from the speed point of view, and have learned a lot along the way about what speed really is on any spinning device. A brief diversion to explain what the ratio on a wheel is. It's essentially the number of times the flyer turns each time the drive wheel is turned one time. It's expressed so: 30:1 (read as "thirty to one") which means your flyer turned 30 times for one full turn of the drive wheel. Each turn of the flyer puts one twist into your fiber. -
Stitch Guide by Johanna Lindahl
1 Stitch Guide By Johanna Lindahl In this stitch guide all the uncommon stitches used in my patterns are described. Note that sometimes stitches are made in a different way than in this guide and in that case that specific stitch is described in the pattern. Content, US terms: • Picot • Popcorn (pop) • Puff • Front post slip stitch (FPss) • Front post single crochet (FPsc) • Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog) • Double crochet 3 together (dc3tog) • Front post double crochet (FPdc) • Front post treble (FPtr) • Front post trebles 2 together (FPtr2tog) • Back post slip stitch (BPss) • Back post single crochet (BPsc) • Back post half double crochet (BPhdc) • Back post double crochet (BPdc) • Back post treble (BPtr) • Spike single crochet • Standing single crochet • Standing double crochet • Invisible join Ravelry Store: Johanna Lindahl Designs Blogg: mijocrochet.se | Facebook: Mijo Crochet | Instagram: @mijocrochet Mijo Crochet 2018. Picot 2 Chain one (or more). Then you make a slip stitch through the front loop and the front vertical loop in the single crochet (or dc) just made. Popcorn (pop) Make 4 double crochet in the specified stitch. Drop the loop from your hook and then insert your hook in the first double crochet you made. Grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch. Ravelry Store: Johanna Lindahl Designs Blogg: mijocrochet.se | Facebook: Mijo Crochet | Instagram: @mijocrochet Mijo Crochet 2018. Puff 3 Yo, insert the hook into the specified stitch. Pull the yarn through the stitch. [Yo and insert the hook into the same stitch and yo again. Pull the yarn through the stitch] 3 more times. -
Mending As Practice and Expression Pocosin Arts Online - August 2021 Material Suggestions
Mending as Practice and Expression Pocosin Arts Online - August 2021 Material Suggestions I want this experience to ft with what you have on hand and what you want to learn! I will link to sources of some supplies I like below, but there is no need to purchase anything unless you want to and think you will use it. You can also check the links to compare supplies to those you may already have. And of course you can get supplies anywhere you like. The most important thing you will need is some fabric scraps or worn-out textles to practce mending on (not your absolute favorite thing to start with). There are two broad categories of fabrics, based on how they are made; woven (like jeans, dress shirts, and sheets) and knited (like sweaters, socks, and T-shirts). We will talk a lot more about these in class. Each type lends itself to somewhat diferent tools and techniques. If you can, I encourage you to fnd a few scraps of each type to practce on, ideally in fabrics that are similar to the items you want to mend. These will also be a good source of material to cut patches from. I will be in touch before our class starts to fnd out about the projects you want to work on. For now, here are some general suggestons of materials and tools you may want to have on hand. In the meantme, feel free to contact me with any questons! [email protected] Threads You may want to use anything from sewing thread to wool yarn in your mending, depending on what you want to fx. -
How to Slip Knot & Chain Stitch
How to Slip Knot & Chain Stitch Appearance in pattern - ch Crochet usually begins with a series of chain stitches called a beginning or foundation chain. A slip knot is the first step in most crochet projects. We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inches from the free end of the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is dangling behind your loop (see illustration 3). Insert the crochet hook through the center of the loop and hook the free end (see illustration 4). Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see illustration 5). Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop (see illustration 6). The loop on the crochet hook should be firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the hook. Be sure you still have about a 6-inch yarn end. Once you have the yarn wrapped, hold the base of the slip knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and hook it (see illustration 8). Draw hooked yarn through the loop of the slip knot on the hook and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see arrow on illustration 9); you have now made one chain stitch (see illustration 10). Step 3: Again, hold the base of the slip knot and bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front (see illustration 11). -
Faculty Development Grant Report Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion
Faculty Development Grant Report Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion Design Faculty Development Grant Report Submitted Sep.11th, 2017 Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion Design Project Description: In Fall 2016, I received a Faculty Development Grant to fund a textile art workshop titled “Places, Spaces and Traces” in Les Carroz, France. This workshop focused on creating artistic textile surfaces, while experimenting with found materials, different media, novel techniques, mark-making (i.e., use of stitch as a “line”), and paint methods on fabric (e.g., sun prints with silk dyes). These different approaches to creating textiles are often described as “painting with cloth.” This workshop was instructed by a renowned textile artist from the U.K., Cas Holmes, author of several books and articles including “The Found Object in Textile Art” and “Stitch Stories”. She utilizes a unique “hands-on” approach that showcases her experimental use of found materials and inventive application of textile and mixed media procedures. Significant Activities: According to Cas Holmes, the most important aspect of “creating art” is the process of developing one’s own approach to subject matter in a meaningful way. Specifically, Holmes showed how she makes connections to natural environments in developing her narratives and her personal vision as a textile artist. #1. Stitch- Sketching: Drawing and recording daily observation, and the realization of those ideas in textile is a process. Sketchbook by Cas Holms Sketchbook by Sumi Lee The colors, textures, and changing light over the meadows, fields and landscape can provide a stimulus for the narrative, formal, or abstract quality in textile works. -
Leather, Wool & Wood Foldover Clutch
LEATHER, WOOL & WOOD FOLDOVER CLUTCH Designed by Brett Bara Come with me on a journey into the world of mixed media crafting! This bag design combines chunky hand-knit panels with sections of supple leather, joined together on a sewing machine and embellished with wooden macrame flair -- all in a foldover clutch shape that’s super hot this year. Yes, it’s a mouthful (!), but the result is a textural treat that’s a perfect piece to complete your fall boho vibe. So break out your knitting needles and sewing machine and do not be afraid -- I promise this project isn’t difficult, and you’ll learn a ton! Brooklyn Craft Company | www.brooklycraftcompany.com Follow & tag us! @brooklyncraftcompany #brooklyncraftcompany (Psst: If you’re feeling daunted by the variety of materials used here, don’t worry – we got you! You can snag a one-stop-shopping kit for all the supplies needed to make this bag. See the link below.) FINISHED SIZE Approximately 12” x 9” when folded (12” x 15” when opened) MATERIALS Note: All the materials to make this bag can be purchased as a kit here: https://www.brooklyncraftcompany.com/products/leather-wool-wood-foldover- clutch-kit • Malabrigo Rasta in Archangel (100% Merino Wool, 90 yards, 150 grams) - 1 skein • Size US13/9mm Knitting Needles • Medium-Weight Leather: enough to cut two pieces measuring 13” x 9 ½” and one piece measuring 1” x 6” • 2 ½” Wooden Macrame Ring Brooklyn Craft Company | www.brooklycraftcompany.com Follow & tag us! @brooklyncraftcompany #brooklyncraftcompany • 2” Oblong Wooden Macrame Bead • Double-sided tape • Sewing machine equipped with walking foot and leather needle • All-purpose sewing thread to match yarn and/or leather • 8” scrap piece of craft wire GAUGE 2.5 stitches per inch on size US13/9mm needles THE KNITTING PART Bag Body Panels (Make two) Cast on 32 sts. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
LACE SUMMER CARDIGAN Pattern Number: M20324 NUB
Free Crochet Pattern LION BRAND® NUBOO LACE SUMMER CARDIGAN Pattern Number: M20324 NUB ©2021 Lion Brand Yarn Company, all rights reserved. LION BRAND® NUBOO LACE SUMMER CARDIGAN Pattern Number: M20324 NUB SKILL LEVEL – EASY SIZES XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) Finished Bust About 36 (39, 42, 46, 52, 55, 58, 62, 68) in. (91.5 (99, 106.5, 117, 132, 139.5, 147.5, 157.5, 172.5) cm) Finished Length About 29 1/2 in. (75 cm) Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning. MATERIALS • LION BRAND® NUBOO (Art. #838) #187 Goldenrod 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) balls • LION BRAND® large-eyed blunt needle ADDITIONAL MATERIALS Crochet hook size 7 (4.5 mm) GAUGE 20 sts + 10 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) over pattern in Rows 2-5 of Back. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. NOTES 1. Body of Cardigan is worked in one piece back and forth in rows. 2. Body is worked from lower back edge up to shoulders. Then piece is divided for back neck and fronts are worked separately from the shoulders down to the lower front edges. 3. Body is folded and side seams sewn, leaving openings for armholes 4. Sleeves are worked in joined rnds directly into the armholes. BODY Back Ch 91 (99, 107, 115, 131, 139, 147, 155, 171).