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Home , Itza people, Punta Sur, San Miguel de Cozumel

298 Behind the Scenes

BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Raul and Marta Ek’ in Dzibalchén for their hos- pitality, and Fernando Alvarado and Guadalupe The 3rd edition of Yucatán was written by Daniel Poot in Sabancuy for their generous assist- C Schechter and Ray Bartlett. The 1st edition was ance. Among the tourism personnel who went written by Scott Doggett, and the 2nd by Ben above and beyond their job descriptions, Yaremi Greensfelder. This guidebook was commissioned García Pech in Campeche and Juan Manuel Mas in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced Dzib in Hopelchén have earned my everlasting by the following: gratitude. I am also grateful to Carlos Vidal and Commissioning Editors Greg Benchwick, Suki Gear Adriana Orlaineta at INAH, Juan Carlos Taller and Coordinating Editor Evan Jones Eduardo Galicia of Pronatura Yucatán, and Char- Coordinating Cartographer Jolyon Philcox lotte Arnaud at Río Bec for filling me in on ar- Coordinating Layout Designer Laura Jane chaeological and environmental developments. Managing Cartographer Mark Griffiths Thank you, John Hagenbuch and Judith Kidd, Assisting Editors Janice Bird, Lauren Rollheiser, Lutie and Joann Andrews and Anthony Andrews for Clark, Charlotte Harrison, Andrea Dobbin sharing your voluminous knowledge of Yucatán Assisting Cartographers Matthew Kelly, with me. Jeffrey A Wright and José Fernández Helen Rowley Ramos as usual contributed their journalistic Cover Designer Candice Jacobus savvy to help me dig up information, and Ray Project Managers Fabrice Rocher, Sarah Sloane Bartlett, my esteemed co-author, answered Managing Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Melanie Dankel every one of my endless questions. Above all, Language Content Coordinator Quentin Frayne thank you, Myra for every little thing. You came through again! Thanks to Mark Germanchis, David Burnett, Helen Koehne, Sally Darmody, Haydn Ellis, Celia Wood, Emma RAY BARTLETT McNicol, Wayne Murphy, Alison Lyall, James Hardy, Huw Muchas, muchas graçias: Fowles, Michelle Glynn, Fiona Siseman, Kate McDonald, To my family and friends – for simply re- Jennifer Garrett membering who I am after I’ve been gone so many months, and for enduring my random e- THANKS tales from the road. Thanks to Suki and Greg, to DANIEL C SCHECHTER Danny, and to all the LP staff behind the scenes – Pretty much everyone I met in the state of it has been a joy working with you. Thanks as Campeche merits praise for their compassion- well to the friendly, fun-loving, proud citizens ate, gentle spirit but I neglected to write down of Yucatán – taxi drivers, fishermen, hammock all their names. In particular, I would like to thank makers, bartenders, divers, waiters, hotel and

THE LONELY PLANET STORY The story begins with a classic travel adventure: Tony and Maureen Wheeler’s 1972 journey across Europe and Asia to Australia. There was no useful information about the overland trail then, so Tony and Maureen published the first Lonely Planet guidebook to meet a growing need. From a kitchen table, Lonely Planet has grown to become the largest independent travel pub- lisher in the world, with offices in Melbourne (Australia), Oakland (USA) and London (UK). Today Lonely Planet guidebooks cover the globe. There is an ever-growing list of books and information in a variety of media. Some things haven’t changed. The main aim is still to make it possible for adventurous travelers to get out there – to explore and better understand the world. At Lonely Planet we believe travelers can make a positive contribution to the countries they visit – if they respect their host communities and spend their money wisely. Every year 5% of company profit is donated to charities around the world.

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hostel owners, tour guides, salsa dancers, staff – thank you so much for the insider advice that SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK helped make this guidebook what it is. May you We love to hear from travelers – your com- treat all readers of this book as kindly as you’ve ments keep us on our toes and help make treated me. Rob, your tips and sleuthing helped our books better. Our well-traveled team tremendously. reads every word on what you loved or A giant thanks to Natalie and Becca for letting loathed about this book. Although we can- me crash your vacation right when I needed it not reply individually to postal submissions, most, and to all the wonderful, fun, zany traveling we always guarantee that your feedback friends I met or made along the way. You’re what goes straight to the appropriate authors, in makes it worth it to hit the road for so long. time for the next edition. Each person who Special thanks as always, last and most impor- sends us information is thanked in the next tantly, to my ruin-researching, mot-mot-spotting, edition – and the most useful submissions dog-feeding, hotel-sleuthing, hammock-trying, are rewarded with a free book. ever-understanding, often beleaguered and very To send us your updates – and find out patient partner in crime. about Lonely Planet events, newsletters and travel news – visit our award-winning web- OUR READERS site: www.lonelyplanet.com/feedback. Many thanks to all the travelers who used the last Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorp- edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful orate your comments in Lonely Planet prod- advice and interesting anecdotes: ucts such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want A Sanne L Albrectsen, Alex Ananian-Cooper, Kirsten Anderson, your comments reproduced or your name Sarah Anderson, Kees Andeweg, Peter Appleton B Pashiera acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy Barkhuysen, Silke Baron, Manuel J Barrio, Anna Bassi, Silvie policy visit www.lonelyplanet.com/privacy. Belanger, Rob Bell, Juan Jose Bellod, Ruth Bernstein, Brendan Bietry, Michael Bisle, Allison Blaue, Karina Bliek, Rudy Bosch, D Braam, Betty Buldan, Brian Buuck C Siobhan Canty, Weihaw Erik & Willeke Merkus, Claire Mertens, Marcel Michiels, David Chuang, Jennie Clarke, Marco Cuyt D Camila Dakini, Pierre-Alain Miller, Gretchen Miller, Tim Miller, Dana Mollins, Eva Mueller- Darlet, Mark Davies, Ognjanka Doncevic, Norman Patrick Doyle, Holtz N Michelle Nepton, Charles Nihan O Emanuele Olivero, Jim & Joann Duffy, Declan Dunne E Kama Einhorn, Lois Eley, Peter O’Meara, Torsten Onderwater, Les Orchard, Alba Ortiz, Paul Brian Elmslie, JD Evans F Radha Fagan, Janda Fiscus, Michael Foss, Ostroff P Greg Pankhurst, Celine Paret, Joney Parijs, Felix Pauli, Oli Barry Fox, Cynda Fuentes, Andreas Funke G Linus Gabrielsson, Pearson, Clarissa Pedrotti, Theo & Sabrina Plakoudakis (& Strehl), Peter Gachot, Silvia Galante, Erin Ganes, Richard Gavalda, Shona Kate Powers, Heike Prokoph R L Rebman, Angelika Rieger, Rae Goulding, Morag Gunson H Bob Haneveld, Cynthia Hartling, Elon Roberts, Gabriel Rodriguez Leal, Ron Roskell, Philip Rossetti, Hasson, Joanne Heron, Matthias Hillenkamp, Shawn Hostetler, Mala Rupnarain, Kat Russell S Cascarino Sara, Jorn Schakenraad, Doug Hughes, Anna Huhtala, Aidan Hulatt J Sarah Jack, Marty Giampaolo Sesena, Emma Slater, Irene Smith, Rachel Smith, Darin Jacob, Peggy Jansen, David Jarvi, Marie Jenks, Jacqueline Jeurissen, Stanley, Elaine Stevens, Martin Stitch, Sarah Streicher T Jeryll Nathaniel Jewitt, Flora Jobin, Catherine Joyce, Greg Juhl, Nadine Taylor, Malcolm Topping, Frank Turnbull U Mara Usher V Ilse van Jung K Dave Knipe, Bart Konings, Daniel Kossick, Miranda Kuin, der Veer, Fabrizio Ventricini, Elia Verónica Villanueva De La Cruz, Andrea Kunz L Shervin Lalezary, Steven Latanville, Sue Lauther, Esben Vinther, Sameer Vohra W Patricia Ward, Kathi Warm, Peter Barbara Leen, Michael Leininger M William Mader, Samuel D Waugh, Laura Wiens, Grace Winter, Uwe Wolfram, Pam Woods, Maenhoudt, Warren Mah, Vivien Marasigan, Fergus McGaugh, Diana Wyant Y Basil Yokarinis

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220-bts-index-yuc3.indd0-bts-index-yuc3.indd 302302 44/08/2006/08/2006 112:05:372:05:37 PMPM 303 Index

A Itzamkanac 228 50, 53-4, 134, 135 accommodations 252-4, see also temple 87 bargaining 263 individual locations 176-7, 176 baseball 36 cabanas 124, 254 Kinich-Kakmó 190 bathrooms 267 hotels 254 Kinich-Ná 148 beaches 115 activities 52-8, 254-5, see also 148-50, 144 116 individual activities Labná 178, 178 Bahía de San Francisco 118 Aguada Grande 110 Mayapán 29, 45, 179-80 Bahías de Punta Solimán 117-18 air travel 131 Cancún 72-3 INDEX airlines 272, 275 Ox-Huadz 190 110 airports 272 172 85-6 tickets 272 246-8, 247, 5, 8, 142, Paamul 115 to/from the Yucatán 271-4 144 Paraíso 238 within Yucatán 275 Río Bec 234 98-104, 100, 6 Akumal 116-17 110-11 Playa Varadero 227 alcoholic drinks 10, 11, 62, 63, see 177 Progreso 188-9 also balché , 44, 127, 230, 251 Puerto Ceiba 238 Amatenango del Valle 245 Tohcok 225 Punta Bete 98 Angelita 12, 121 121-3, 122 Punta Holohit 206 animals 47-9, see also individual 43, 172-5, 174, 9, 144 safe travel 72-3 animals, wildlife-watching Xcambó 189 San Felipe 206 Internet resources 46, 48 177-8 Tankah 118 anteaters 48, 131 233 Tulum 122 archaeological sites 238 Yamil Lu’um 71 Xpu-há 116 Aguada Grande 110 Yaxchilán 249-51 Bécal 222 Balamkú 229-30 Zona Arqueológica El Rey 71 Becán 232 Becán 232 architecture bicycling 56 249-51 books 42 Campeche 221 books 42 Chenes style 44 Cobà 128 230-1 Esperanza style 42 Ek’ Balam 202 Chicanná 231-2 Maya style 42-5 tours 160 Chichén Itzá 43, 191-8, 193, 8 Puuc style 44 Tres Ríos 97 Chichén Viejo 195 Río Bec style 44 Valladolid 199 186-7 Spanish colonial style 45 within Yucatán 275-6 Cobá 127-9, 128 -Maya style 44 biosphere reserves Dzibanché 147-50 Arrecife Catarell 109 Banco Chinchorro 50, 53-4, 134, Dzibilchaltún 187-8 Arrecife Palancar 53, 109, 110 135 Dzibilnocac 226 art galleries, see museums & galleries Calakmul 50, 230-1 Edzná 223-4, 225, 223 arts 39-45, see also individual arts Lacantun 250 Ek’ Balam 202-3 books 44 Montes Azules 249, 250 El Castillo Real 110 Atasta Peninsula 229 Pantanos de Centla 239 El Cedral 110 ATMs 262 Ría Celestún 184-5 El Rey 71 atole 61 Ría Lagartos 50, 204 El Tabasqueño 225-6 Sian Ka’an 50, 130-1 El Tigre 228 B bird-watching 47-8, 56-7, see highlights 19, 24, 24 136-8 also biosphere reserves, flamingos Hochob 226 Bahía de San Francisco 118 Bahías de Punta Solimán 117-18 Hormiguero 234 Bahías de Punta Solimán 117-18 books 47 Internet resources 246 Balamkú 229-30 Calakmul 230 itinerary 24, 24 balché 10, 11, 63 Celestún 185

220-bts-index-yuc3.indd0-bts-index-yuc3.indd 303303 44/08/2006/08/2006 112:05:372:05:37 PMPM 220-bts-index-yuc3.indd 304 0

- INDEX b t s - business hours255 bushwalking, bus travel border crossings books 72, Bonampak 249-51 boat travel, birds 47-8, Campeche (city)209-21, Calakmul 50,230-1 cabanas 124,254 C bird-watching 304 i n 000 000 d entertainment 219-20 entertainment accommodations 216-18 within Yucatán 276-7 to/from theYucatán 274 to/from theUSA274 to/from Belize149,274 travel literature 18,220 civilization28,29,31,32, Maya history 33,183 health 282 geography 120 environmental issues250 diving 108 bird-watching 47 44 arts within Yucatán 276 to/from theYucatán 274-5 flamingos 135 Uaymitún 189 tours 160,185,190,204 118 Tankah Lacandón250 Selva San Felipe 206 204,206 Río Lagartos Biósfera delaSianKa’an Reserva Punta VenadoRancho 115 Punta Laguna130 Laguna deTérminos227 Laguna Bacalar136 Jardín BotánicoYaax Che97 Isla Holbox92 Isla dePájaros227 Isla Contoy91-2 Cozumel 110, e x

- Map pages Map Photograph pages y 36, 39,42 50, 130-1 u Index (B-C) c see also 3 . see also i see also n d see continued d

hiking

105 literature 3 0 bird-watching, kayaking 4 , 12 212 Cancún 67-84, Campeche state208-34, canoeing, 46,120, 117,120 Cenote DosOjos Celestún 184-6 ceiba tree 37,38 caves 18,23,225, Catherwood, Frederick cathedrals, dela Catedral deNuestraSeñora casas decambio Casa deMontejo157 41-2 carvings car travel walking tour214-15, walking travel to/from220-1 tours 215-16 travel within82-4 travel to/from81-2 tours 73 offices71 tourist sights 71-3 shopping 81 safe travel72-3 money 69 69 medical services Internet access69 food 77-9 79-81 entertainment emergency 69 dangers 71 clubbing 79-81 71-3 activities accommodations 75-7 Cuzamá 180 115 Cristalino 115 Azul Angelita 12,121 Xtacumbilxuna’an 225 Ox BelHa117 Chich117 Nohoch Nah Loltún 178-9 diving 117,120,121 Calcehtok 171-2 196 Balankanché 226, 246 Purísima Concepción211 within Yucatán 277-80 to/from theYucatán 274 road rules280 road distancechart road conditions278-80 insurance 274 car rental 278 see see kayaking churches&cathedrals 70 263 142 , 74 , 142 279 210 215 , 143 138-46,147, Chencoh 226 Champotón 226 churches &cathedrals, Chunchucmil 186-7 children, travelwith255, 282 Chicxulub 28 Chichén Viejo195 Chichén Itzá29,43,191-8, Chicanná 231-2 Chiapas 239-51, diving 12,52,73,120,121, 117,120 Dos Ojos Zací 199 188 Xlacah Xel-Há 117 Taj 73 Mahal Samulá 199 Sagrado 192,194 Punta VenadoRancho 115 118 Manatí Itzmal Chen180 195 Ik Kil Grutas deXtacumbilxuna’an225 Gran Cenote127, El JardíndeEdén115 Dzitnup 199, travel to/from146,147 sights 140 accommodations 140 Templo deSanJuan245 Templo deSanBernardino 199 Tekax 183 delaVirgendelCarmen Santuario delaVirgenIzamal Santuario Ruta delasIglesias183 Parroquia de LosSantosReyes Parroquia deSanAntonio de 183, Oxkutzcab 160 Iglesia LaMejorada Iglesia deSanJuanDios214 Iglesia deSanFranciscoAsis222 Iglesia deSanAntonioPadua 180 158 Iglesia deJesús Ex-Templo deSanJosé213 Catedral deSanIldefonso155-7 deLas Catedral deSanCristóbal dela Catedral deNuestraSeñora &convents monasteries 228 190, Tizimín 203 Padua 224 Casas 241 Purísima Concepción211 8 237 7 141 44/08/2006 12:05:37 PM 143 / 0 see also 139 8 / 2 0 193 0 6

142 ,

8 1 2 : 0 5 : 3 7

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7 3 : 5 0 : 2 305 1

141

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birds 6 0 11 0 2 / 8 144 0

/ 44/08/2006 12:05:37 PM see also inside inside front cover

see Index (C-F) Index 11, 62-3 boat travel see see individual animals, Guadalupe 216, 260 Muertos 161 Carnaval 259 Carnaval, Campeche 216 Carnaval, Chetumal 138 Carnaval, Ciudad Del Carmen 228 Carnaval, Mérida 161 ch’a chaak 132 Semana Santa, Mérida 161 48 Toh Festival Día de la Candelaría 259 Día de la Independencia 259 Día de la Marina 205 Día de los Muertos 259, Día de los Reyes Magos 203, 259 Día de Navidad 260 Día de Nuestra Señora de Día de Todos los Santos 259 de los Exposición de Altares de San Román 216 Feria de Santiago 204-5 Feria 161 de Trova Yucateca Festival del Centro HistóricoFestival 216 de Flor del Jipi 222 Fiesta food celebrations 11, 62-3 Posadas 260 Semana Santa 259, front cover books 250 49, 51 deforestation 48, 250 Internet resources oil exploration 26, 51 festivals 19, 259-60 festivals fax services 266 Carrillo PuertoFelipe 32, 132-3, ferries, fish 48 fishing 6, 57, 88, 116, 131, 204 F fauna, Ek’ Balam 202-3 El Castillo Real 110 El Cedral 110 El Cuyo 205, 206 El Rey 71 225-6 El Tabasqueño 228 El Tigre electricity 253 email services 261 embassies 258-9 emergencies 290-4, environmental issues 49, 51 exchange rates, 142 53 see also 25 , 4 223 25 bicycling car travel 10, 11, 63 see 61 see Parque 110 Punta Parque Ríos 97 Tres 115 Xel-Há 117 Nacional 239, 242 Cozumel 52-3, 108, 109 dive shops 54 Isla Mujeres 87-8 highlights 12, 25, itinerary 25, 134 53, 109, 110 Palancar Playa del Carmen 99 Puerto 95 Morelos Allen 131 Punta diving 54 responsible 121 Tulum Xcalak 135 alcoholic 10, 11, 62, 63 atole balché Akumal 116 109 Catarell Arrecife 53, 109, 110 Palancar Arrecife Banco Chinchorro 134, 135 books 108 Cancún 73 caves 117, 120, 121 cenotes 12, 52, 73, 120, 121, vaquerías E eagle rays 108, 109 ecoparks economy 26 Edzná 223-4, 225, Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Dos Ojos 117, 120 drinks 61-2 driving, drugs, illegal 99, 261 Dzibanché 147-50 Dzibilchaltún 187-8 Dzibilnocac 226 Dzilam de Bravo 189 D dance 11, 40, 260, debit cards 262 diarrhea 285 Díaz, Porfirio 32, 33, 159 disabled travelers 257-8 diving 52-4, 115, 117, Cuzamá 180 cycling, 12 , see 107 , 105 11 Maya people , 5 Kohunlich 0 Cancún 10 , 3

see d see also d n 128 i 41, 167, 222 . 11, 41, 3 see also inside front cover c travel 277 u Dzibanché Centla 239 131 y travel 277 - x e Internet resources 35 Internet resources travel 36 responsible Santuario de la Cruz Parlante 133 Santuario de la Cruz Parlante Reserva Sian Ka’an de la Biósfera Río Lagartos 204 Cozumel 110 115 Rancho Venado Punta Reserva de Pentanos de la Biósfera accommodations 111-12 sights 106-11 travel to/from 113 panama hats 41, 167, 222 179 190 213, 226 jipijapas huipiles Templo de Santo Domingo 241 de Santo Templo 184 also bus travel 277 253, 265 taxes languages 256 d n i currency 262 currency 256 customs regulations cultural considerations 36 35-45, culture cross, talking 32, 132-3 crafts 41-2 cards 262 credit crocodiles 48, 56 Cobá 127-9, colectivo 84, Córdoba, Francisco Hernández de Corozal, 150 Arqueológico 146-50, Corredor Cocomes people 29, 30, 45, 155, Cocomes people 29, 30, 45, 155, Comalcalco 238 combi Conkal 189 conservation 49, 50-1 consulates 258-9 Convento de San Antonio de Padua Ciudad Cancún, 227-9 Ciudad del Carmen climate 17-18, 255-6 clothing 167-8 Cortés, Hernán 30, 105 134-5 costs 18, courses 256 Cousteau, Jacques 12, 52, 106 Cozumel 52-3, 104-15, - s t b - 0 220-bts-index-yuc3.indd 305 220-bts-index-yuc3.indd 306 0

- INDEX b t s - Fuerte Museo SanJosédelAlto214 Fuerte Museo 213-14 Fuerte deSanMiguel Frontera Corozal251 football 36 haciendas &mansions H Grutas deXtacumbilxuna’an225 Grutas deLoltún178-9 Grutas deCalcehtok171-2 196 Grutas deBalankanché 19,48,50 Reef Barrier Great Maya Gran Cenote127, golf 57-8 geography 46 gay travelers260 galleries, G food 59-65,260 flora, flamingos 50 306 i n 000 000 d ancient 37 travelers62 vegetarian specialities 59-60 Yaxcopoil 171 Uxmal 172-3 ruined haciendasroute186 Palacio Cantón159 Ochil 171 86-7 Mundaca 214 Carvajal Mansión deSalinas185-6 Hacienda Real Hacienda laLuz 238 Hacienda deTixchel 227 Granada 187 Chunchucmil 186-7 Casa deMontejo157 books 120 Cancún 80 25, itineraries glossary 63-5 festivals 11,62-3 antojitos Uaymitún 189 204 Río Lagartos delaBiósfera SianKa-an Reserva Parque NacionalIslaContoy91 Isla Holbox92 Celestún 184 e x

see - Map pages Map Photograph pages y 131 u Index (F-K) plants c see 3 . 59 i n museums&galleries d d

25 143 3 0 6 handicrafts 41, handicrafts hammocks 168 history 27-34, 55-6,117-18,131,156, hiking hepatitis 284 hurricanes 18,26,34,47,51,52,92, hurricanes Wilma26,34, 47,51,52, Hurricane henequen production 32,33,171, henequen production Hecelchakán 221-2,225 health 281-6 huipiles 48,56,131,230, howler monkeys hotels 254 97,109, 115 horseback riding Hormiguero 234 Hopelchén 10,224,225 holidays 17,260-1 Hochob 226 280 hitchhiking 237-8 104, 109,205 92, 104,109,205 187, women travelers282 water 286 vaccinations 281 typhoid fever 284 sun 73,286 rabies 284 283 medical services 283 malaria jet lag283 Internet resources 282 insurance 281 bites161,285-6 insect hepatitis 284 heat 286 285 diarrhea 282 deep veinthrombosis(DVT) cholera 284-5 books 282 animal bites286 239, 249 War oftheCastes32-3,132, Spanish conquest29-32 Period 29 Maya post-Classic 153-4 Mérida Internet resources 27,35 independance 31-2 Period 28-9 Classic Maya Chichén Itzá191 Campeche 209 books 33,183 civilization 136-7, 140,153,184,198 11, 41 11 see also 10 see also , 11 Maya Maya clothing itineraries 15,16,21-5 itineraries TurtleIsla Mujeres Farm 87 84-91, Isla Mujeres Isla Holbox92-4 Isla dePájaros227 Isla Cozumel, Isla Contoy91-2 Isla Cancún, Isla Aguada 227 Internet resources 20 Internet access261 insurance immunizations 281 ParqueIk Kil Ecoarqueológico195 I kayaking 54-5 kayaking 176-7, Kabah K jipijapas Javier RojoGómez131 Jardín BotánicoYaax Che97 jaguars 48,49,56,130,131,230,239 J 190-1, Ixchel temple87 228 Itzamkanac Itzá people29,179,223,228 Iturbide 226 diving 25, travel to/from90-1 sights 85-7 accommodations 88-9 plants 46 civilization34,35,38 Maya history 27,35 health 282 environmental issues48,250 culture 35 archaeological sites246 animals 46,48 travel 261 health 281 car travel274 Tankah 118 Tankah Punta VenadoRancho 115 Punta Laguna130 Ceiba238 Puerto Laguna Bacalar136,138 Cozumel 110 Cancún 73 dePunta Solimán117 Bahías snorkeling 25, snorkeling food 25, 41,167,222 25 see see 25 176 8 Cancún Cozumel 25 69 44/08/2006 12:05:38 PM / , 0 85 8 / 2 , 0 86 0 6

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6 0 0 2 / 8 0 / 44/08/2006 12:05:39 PM Index (K-N) Index 171 213-14 Real 222 157 Ateneo de Yucatán 160 159-60 213 museum 190 History (INAH) 71-2 Baluarte de San Francisco 213 Baluarte de San Juan 213 Baluarte de Santa Rosa 213 Casa Número 6 211 Centro Cultural Santa Cruz 133 Centro Cultural Chan El Carmen 241 Centro Cultural Chichén Itzá museum 192 Comalcalco museum 238 MuseoFuerte 214 San José del Alto Grutas de Balankanché museum 196 Hacienda Ochil henequen museum Laguna Bacalar fortress 137 Macay 157 Museum 241 Museo Arqueológico de Campeche Museo Arqueológico del Camino Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Museo de Arte Sacro 189 Museo de la Arquitectura Maya 211 Museo de la Ciudad, Campeche 211 Museo de la Ciudad, Chetumal 140 Museo de la Ciudad, Mérida 158 Museo de la Cultura Maya 140 Museo de la Guerra de Castas 184 Museo de la Isla de Cozumel 106 Museo de San Roque 199 MayaMuseo del Pueblo 188 Museo INAH 71-2 Museo 245 Jsotz’ Levetik Museo Nacional de Arte Popular Museo Regional de Antropología Museo y Galería de Arte Popular Na Bolom 241 Site Museum 246 Palenque 236 Parque-Museo La Venta Santa Elena museum 176 Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal Zoh-Laguna museum 233 N Nafta 34, 242 Nahochín 204 National Institute of Anthropology & museums & galleries music 40 Muyil 131 inside

health see also 141 , 4 see also , see also culture, culture, Maya see inside front see inside front 156-7 see also inside front cover howler monkeys, spider see also

, see 141 Padua 190 Padua inside front cover cover , civilization language 35, 293-4 religion 37-8, 140 religion 43, 140 Xibalbá 37, 38, 10 accommodations 161-5 drinking 166-7 emergency 154 entertainment 167 160-1 festivals food 165-6 Internet access 154 money 154 shopping 167 sights 155-60 special events 160-1 tourist offices 155 tours 160 travel to/from 168-9 travel within 170-1 cover Convento de San Antonio de Convento de Sisal 199 Oxkutzcab Franciscan mission 183 Franciscan monastery 203 Tizimín front cover 262 ATMs bargaining 263 costs 18, 253, 265, 277, cards 262 credit exchange rates, traveler’s checks 262 monkeys 157, 179, 198, 209 278 rental 274 travel to/from the Yucatán 277-80 within Yucatán Mayapán 45, 179-80 Ruinas 29, 253, measures medical services 283, Mennonites 222, 224, 225 Mérida 153-71, Maya 24, 38, 45, 245, people 9, 18, Mérida zoo 160 metric conversions, Mexican Revolution 33 monasteries & convents money 18, 258, 262-3, monkeys, Montejo, Francisco de 30-1, 153, 155, motorcycle travel Museo INAH 71-2

books 143 7 0 144 3 see also

see also

24 d d haciendas & mansions n i 178 . see 3 11, 94 c u y - x e architecture 42-5 bloodletting 37 books 28, 29, 31, 32, 36, 39, 42 calendar 37, 43, 192 cosmology 37, 140 cranial deformation 75 history 27-9, 30-2 34, 35, 38 Internet resources itinerary 24, archaeological sites, Maya people aluxes 183 courses 256 food vocabulary 63-5 Maya languages 35, 293-4 Spanish 287-92 Maya 293-4 Yucatec Cancún 80 tours 73, 160, 215 Ríos 97 Tres Xcalak 135 d n i M Mahahual 134-5 malaria 283 manatees 49, 54, 138, 239 Maní 31, 183 mansions, map legend 312 maps 262 marine 48 life , Laguna Colombia 110 Laguna de Términos 26, 227 Laguna Mayil 131 Laguna Puerto Viejo 92 Laguna Rosada 189 116 Laguna Yal-Kú Landa, Friar 39, 105, Diego de 31, language 287-94 Las Coloradas 204 legal matters 261 lesbian travelers 260 39-40, literature Labná 178, Lacandón Jungle 250 Lacanjá Chansayab 250 Laguna Bacalar 136-8, Kukulcán 179, 191 29, 30, 45, 173, L Kinich-Kakmó 190 Kinich-Ná 148 kiteboarding 55, 92 Kohunlich 148-50, - s t b - 0 220-bts-index-yuc3.indd 307 220-bts-index-yuc3.indd 308 0

- INDEX b t s - planning 17-20,258, Pisté 192,196-8 pirates 105,136,209,213 photography 263-4 peoples 271 passports Parque Punta Sur110 Parque NacionalIslaContoy91-2 109-10, Parque Chankanaab Paraíso 238 panama hats41,167,222 Palenque 246-9 Palancar 53,109,110 Reef 246,247 Pakal Paamul 115-16 P 183, Oxkutzcab 172 Oxkintok Ox-Huadz 190 Ox BelHa117 33-4,228 oil production O 50 national parks&reserves 308 North American Free Trade American North Chich117 Nohoh Nah newspapers 253 Necopal 204 i n 000 000 d itineraries cultural consideration245,264 Zapotec 27 Xiú 29,30,31,179 Toltec 29,191,192,193-4 Teotihuacán 27,28,29 Olmec 27,236 Maya 9,18,24,35,38,45,245, Maya Itzáes 29,179,223,228 Cocomes 29,30,45,155,179 Chontal 238 30 Aztec ruins 246-8, U’lu’um ChacYuk Nature Reserve Yum Balam92 Reserva Parque NacionalPalenque 246 Parque NacionalIslaContoy91-2 Laguna deTérminos26,227 Agreement 34,242 e x

- Map pages Map Photograph pages y culture, Maya civilization culture, Maya 293-4, 234 u Index (N-S) c 3 . i n d 10 d 141 247

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141 3 0 , 8 5 see also ,

, see also 8 , 142 12 ,

144 Playa delCarmen98-104, plants 49-50 94-130, Maya Riviera 204-5 Río Lagartos Río Bec234 delabiósfera reservas religion 37-8 Punta VenadoRancho 115 rabies 284 R Quintana Roo66-150, Quetzalcóatl 29,30,45,173,179,191 Q Puuc Route177-8 Punta Sur87 Punta Solimán117-118 Punta Sam69,90 Punta Laguna130 Punta Juárez 69,90 204 Punta Garza Punta Bete97-8 Punta Allen131 Morelos 94-7 Puerto Ceiba238 Puerto public holidays17,260-1 Pronatura 48,49,51 Progreso 188-9 264 postal services porfiriato population 26,36 politics 26,34 Playa Varadero 227 Ruta Puuc 177-8 Ruta delasIglesias183 Ruta Chenes223 29,45,179-80 Ruinas deMayapán Rose Lagoon189 robbery 257 road distancechart Internet resources 46 Sian Ka’an 50,130-1 Sian Ka’an 50,204 Ría Lagartos Ría Celestún184-5 Pantanos deCentla 239 249,250 Montes Azules Lacantun 250 Calakmul 50,230-1 Banco Chinchorro50,53-4,134,135 225 Mennonites travel to/from103-4 accommodations 100-2 itineraries 21, itineraries 33 38,39 21 279 95 68 100 , 6 San Miguel deCozumel104-15, San Miguel San Lorenzo Zinacantán 245 San JuanChamula245 110-11 San Gervasio San Felipe 6,206-7 deLasCasas239-44, San Cristóbal safe travel172 sacbeob Sabancuy 227 S snorkeling 52-4 snorkeling sisal production, shopping 264-5 sharks 108,118 Lacandón250 Selva 49 deNorte Selva , scams 120,149 Sayil 177 delaCruzParlanteSantuario 133 Santa Elena176 Spanish language287-92 Spanish conquest29-31 soccer 36 travel within travel to/from244 accommodations 242-3 245, 257 theft robbery 257 itinerary 25, 86,87-8 Isla Mujeres Gran Cenote127 Ek’ Balam202 Cozumel 108,109 cenotes 52,73,120,121 Cancún 73 Banco Chinchorro134,135 dePunta Solimán118 Bahías 116 Akumal production travel to/from113 sights 106 accommodations 111-12 ancient 37 Xel-Há 117 Xcalak 135 Tulum 121 Tres Ríos97 54 responsible snorkeling 131 delaBiósfera SianKa’an Reserva Punta VenadoRancho 115 Morelos 95 Puerto Playa delCarmen99 134 Mahahual 127,129,148,177,178,223 240-1 see 25 diving see henequen 44/08/2006 12:05:39 PM / 0 8 / 2 0 0 6

107 1 2 : 0 5 : 3 9

P M M

INDEX P

9 3 : 5 0 : 2 309 1

6 see 0 0 2 / 8 152-3 0 / inside front

44/08/2006 12:05:39 PM see also individual see also individual Index (S-Z) Index see also Internet resources , birds, plants, wildlife- see biosphere reserves,biosphere national 117 ruins 233 cover animals watching 48 46, Internet resources also parks Bahías Solimán de Punta Laguna 130 Punta Selva Lacandón 250 tours 185 Xcalak 135 health 282 volunteer work 270 Z Zapatistas 239, 242 ziplining 57, 73 Zoh-Laguna 232, 233 Zona Arqueológica El Rey 71 150 Zona Libre zoos 160 X Xcalak 135 Xcambó 189 115 Xcaret Xel-Há 117 Xibalbá 37, 38, 43, 140 Xiú people 29, 30, 31, 179 Xlapak 177-8 Xpu-há 116 Xpuhil Ruinas 233 Xpujil 232-4 Y 71 Lu’um Yamil 249-51 Yaxchilán Yoluk 204 state 151-207, Yucatán Maya language 293-4 Yucatec weights 253, websites, 47-9, 19, wildlife wildlife-watching 56-7, 249, windsurfing 55, 92 women travelers 269 work 269-70 144 , 144 200 , 95 9 , 142 passports , 174 21 122 119 hiking hiking see also hiking see see 11, 40 see Centla 239 tourist cards 268-9 140, 153, 184, 198 Museo de la Guerra de Castas 184 ruins 121-3, itineraries 21, Akumal 116 Bahías Solimán 118 de Punta Cozumel 108 Isla Mujeres 87 Laguna de Términos 227 115-16 Paamul Reserva de Pantanos de la Biósfera Río Lagartos 204 Xel-Há 117 San Cristóbal de Las Casas 241-2 Uxmal 175 wildlife-watching 131, 185, 229, 241 traveler’s checks 262 traveler’s checks trekking, vaquerías vegetarian travelers 62 226 Vicente Guerrero video systems 263-4 Villahermosa 236-8 visas 268-9, volunteer work 270 W walking, War of the Castes 32-3, 132, 136-7, U Uaymitún 189 Reserve Nature U’lu’um Chac Yuk 234 Uxmal 43, 172-5, V vacations 17, 260-1 vaccinations 281 198-202, 200, Valladolid Tulum Corridor 94-130, Tulum turtles 49 TV 253 train travel 276 tramping, Brazos 239 Tres Ríos 97 Tres 118-27, Tulum festivals 9 0 see also 3

237 d beaches d n 181 i see clothing, handicrafts . 3 310-1 c see u 237-8 131 y - x e kayaking 73, 160, 215 248 Palenque Puerto 95 Morelos Reserva Sian Ka’an de la Biósfera Atasta Peninsula 229 Atasta Peninsula bird-watching 160, 185, 190, 204 Campeche 215-16 Cancún 73 Celestún 185 cycling 160 91-2 hiking 55-6, 117-18, 131, 156, Santuario de la Cruz Parlante 133 Santuario de la Cruz Parlante cell phones 266 249 226, 246 d n i tipping 263 168 Tixkokob 203 Tizimín Tohcok 225 toilets 267 Toltec people 29, 191, 192, 193-4 tourist card 268-9 tourist information 267-8 tours 160, 190, 231, 233, 236, 249 T 236-9, talking 132-3 cross 32, Tankah118 263 taxes 183 Tekax telephone services 265 de San Bernardino 199 Templo textiles, special events 19, theft 257 T’ho 153, 155, 179 Thompson, Edward 192, 194 180-2, Ticul Tihosuco 184 Tihosuco 230, 251 Guatemala 44, 127, Tikal, time 267, sports 36-7 L 18, 23, 220, 225, Stephens, John swimming, spider monkeys 48, 56, 97, 130, - s t b - 0 220-bts-index-yuc3.indd 309 310 WORLD TIME ZONES

12am1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 8am 9am 10am 11am 12pm Sun Mon ARCTIC OCEAN Ellesmere Is Queen (Can) Elizabeth Is (Can)

Date Line Date 9am GREENLAND International SEA BAFFIN Greenland Banks Is BAY CHUKCHI BEAUFORT (Denmark) SEA (Can) SEA Victoria Is 11am (Can) NORWEGIAN SEA Russia Baffin Is Alaska (Can) (US) 5am Iceland NORTH 3am 4am SEA HUDSON BERING BAY United SEA LABRADOR Canada SEA Kingdom GULF OF 8am ALASKA 2am 6am NORTH Ireland 8.30am ATLANTIC 7am OCEAN

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Chile Uruguay New Argentina Tristan da Cunha Zealand (UK) Gough Is 12.45am SOUTH (UK) Chatham Is PACIFIC (NZ) OCEAN

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Sweden 12am 1pm 2pm 7pm 9pm 11pm Finland Norway 3pm 10pm 4pm 5pm Russia Latvia Denmark SEA 3am OF BERING Poland Belarus OKHOTSK SEA 2am Germany 4pm 6pm Ukraine France Austria Kazakhstan Romania Mongolia Italy Uzbekistan 4pm Kyrgyzstan North Korea Greece Turkey Turkmenistan China South NORTH Tunisia MEDITERRANEAN Syria Iran Afghanistan Korea Japan PACIFIC 4.30pm 8pm SEA Iraq 3.30pm Tibet (China) OCEAN 2pm 5pm Nepal 5.45 Algeria Pakistan pm EAST Libya Saudi CHINA Egypt India 6.30 1pm Arabia Taiwan SEA 4pm pm Northern 5.30 Myanmar Niger Oman pm Mariana 6pm 9pm Is (US) Marshall Eritrea Yemen Thailand Is (US) Chad BAY OF Sudan ARABIAN BENGAL Philippines 12am SEA 5.30pm Vietnam Nigeria Ethiopia Central African 3pm Sri Lanka Federated States Republic Palau of Micronesia Kiribati Somalia Maldives Malaysia 11am Congo Kenya Nauru EQUATOR Gabon 1pm Congo Indonesia (Zaire) Papua New Tanzania Guinea SOUTH 6.30 East Solomon Is PACIFIC Seychelles pm Timor 4pm OCEAN Angola Malawi Cocos (Keeling) Zambia Is (Aust) Vanuatu Madagascar Namibia Zimbabwe Mauritius Fiji INDIAN OCEAN 9.30 Reunion (Fr) Botswana Mozambique (Fr) pm New Caledonia 11.30 Australia 10.30 pm South pm Norfolk Is Africa Lord Howe (Aust) Is (Aust)

New Zealand Prince Edward Is TASMAN (S. Africa) French Southern & SEA Antarctic Territories (Fr) SOUTHERN OCEAN Heard & McDonald Is (Aust)

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