Linda Findlay [email protected] www.globaltraveldiscoveries.com 864-404-6084
COZUMEL, QUINTANA ROO, MEXICO
OVERVIEW
Introduction
Cozumel, Mexico, should not be compared to Cancun, the splashy resort just 40 mi/65 km to the north and one of its nearest neighbors. In the past, Cozumel had a laid-back, sedate atmosphere, and its superior fishing, snorkeling and diving gave it a definite edge.
Today, Cozumel retains its unique vibe and remains a better choice for those who don't like planned resorts, but the island is no longer an escapist's paradise. The snorkeling, diving and fishing are still great, but no one would mistake present-day Cozumel for the sleepy backwater it once was.
One reason is cruise ships. Cozumel is the most popular cruise stop in Mexico and has hosted as many as 33 ships in one week. When more than one ship looms on the horizon, Cozumel's restaurants, bars and shops fill with day-trippers.
Still, Cozumel can be fun, especially for travelers interested in exploring its coral reefs on scuba and snorkeling outings. After all, it's home of the largest reef in the Americas. The island's only town, San Miguel, has retained much of its pleasant, small-town atmosphere. Those with enough time for a day trip will find the Mayan ruins of Tulum and Chichen Itza, on the Yucatan mainland, within striking distance.
Sights—Deserted beaches on Cozumel's rugged east coast; sea and jungle vistas in the Faro Celarain Eco Park; the Maya ruins at San Gervasio.
Museums—The Museo de la Isla de Cozumel with its haunting Maya sculptures; the Navigational Museum with its unique navigational exhibits; the San Miguel Pax Music Museum with its collection of almost 1,000 different musical instruments from around the world.
Memorable Meals—Pasta with fresh seafood in Guido's romantic courtyard.
Late Night—Frolic and fun at Senor Frog's and Carlos'n Charlie's; break a sweat dancing at OFF Site; street festivities during Carnival.
Walks—The malecon, San Miguel's pretty seaside promenade; the botanical gardens in Parque Nacional Chankanaab; the seaside trails and views of Mayan ruins in Faro Celarain Eco Park.
Especially for Kids—Dolphin encounters at Parque Nacional Chankanaab; underwater tours with Atlantis Adventures submarines.
Cozumel is Mexico's largest island—33 mi/53 km long and 8 mi/13 km wide. The island is very flat. From the mainland, the tall hotel buildings appear to float on the horizon. Shops, restaurants and nightlife are concentrated in San Miguel, the only town, which is on the west coast of the island.
Cozumel has two highways. One makes a half-circle around the southern end of the island. Heading south out of San Miguel, it's a four- lane road for about 5 mi/8 km before narrowing to two lanes. The other highway is the Carretera Transversal (the cross-island highway), which is a well-maintained road that cuts straight through the jungle-covered center of the island and connects the east and west coasts.
It's hard to get lost in downtown San Miguel if you know the layout: Avenidas (avenues) run north-south, and calles (streets) run east- west. Except for the large thoroughfares, such as Avenida Melgar (also known as the Malecon or waterfront), Calle 11 and the island highways, most roads are one way. The oldest Maya ruin on Cozumel dates from AD 300. The Maya believed that Cozumel was the spiritual home of Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and love. Maya women and men were said to make a pilgrimage to the island at least once in their lifetimes to ensure the healthy birth of their children.
The name Cozumel comes from the Mayan word Cuzamil-Peten, which means "Land of the Swallows." (Ixchel was often depicted with swallows at her feet.)
Cozumel was a quiet place until the early 1960s, when it was first visited by Jacques Cousteau, the well-known underwater explorer and documentary filmmaker. He put the island on the map as one of the great diving destinations in the world. The second-largest reef system in the world, the Mesoamerican, starts here, snaking its way south to as far away as Honduras.
In recent decades, Cozumel has experienced the tourism boom that has transformed the northern Yucatan, and it has become an increasingly popular destination for cruise ships.
Location
Cruise ships visiting Cozumel dock at the International Pier, Punta Langosta or Puerta Maya (the most developed; http://www.puertamaya.com), all of which have been reconstructed to withstand a Category 5 hurricane. For more information on each facility, see http://www.cozumelmycozumel.com/Pages/CozumelCruisesBasics.htm.
During peak times, some ships anchor offshore there and tender passengers to land. These are marked on cruise ship itineraries as fundeo.
Punta Langosta pier is a 10-minute walk, and the International Pier is a short taxi ride or a 2-mi/3-km walk along the waterfront to San Miguel. Puerta Maya's 9-acre/4-hectare cruise center has a transportation hub that can accommodate dozens of taxis and tour buses. The three piers have shopping malls, internet access, Wi-Fi, taxis and tour stands.
A tourist-information office on the municipal pier and a booth in the nearby park are open daily 8 am-9 pm. The island's main tourism office is on the second floor of the Plaza del Sol shopping center on the east side of the town plaza, half a block from the municipal pier. It's open Monday-Friday 8 am-3 pm. Phone 987-869-0212. http://www.islacozumel.com.mx.
Typical tours may include visiting the Maya ruins at Tulum; outdoor adventures such as snorkeling, scuba diving, sportfishing, a dune- buggy tour, a tequila history tour or a jungle tour on horseback; golf; or a shopping expedition to Cancun or Playa del Carmen.
Cruise passengers can take the 45-minute ferry to see Playa del Carmen's shops, stalls, vendors, restaurants and bars, where a party- hearty atmosphere rules day and night. The main shopping street in Playa is Fifth Avenue, and it's got a few familiar names such as Starbucks and Tommy Bahama. There are also shops and stalls touting Mexican wares. Do be prepared to bargain in the markets and stalls—not, however, in retail stores. Some passengers opt for Xcaret, an archaeology-ecological Mexican theme park, or Xel-Ha, an immense water park built around a natural lagoon. Both are a short drive from Playa del Carmen.
Note: Long trousers, sturdy shoes, socks and long sleeves are best for jungle treks. Take along plenty of sunscreen, water and insect repellent, and don't forget to spray your ankles. A hat that shades your face from the sun is also a good idea.
Potpourri
The El Cedral Festival was started about 150 years ago by Casimiro Cardenas. He survived an attack during the War of the Castes by clutching a small wooden cross and started the festival to honor its power.
Hernan Cortes, the Spanish conqueror of the Aztec Empire in the 16th century, made his first landfall from Cuba at Cozumel. Soon after the Maya population was decimated by smallpox carried by the Spaniards.
Prior to the arrival of Cortes, a Spansh sailor named Gonzalo Guerrero was shipwrecked at Cozumel along with Franciscan friar Geronimo Aguilar. The pair were imprisoned by a Maya chieftain. A few years later, Guerrero married the daughter of the chieftain and their children were the first mestizos (mixed race) of New Spain, from which the majority of Mexicans are descended.
Cozumel was a sacred island according to its first settlers, the Maya. They dedicated the island to the moon goddess Ixchel and built many temples in her honor.
Cozumel was a favorite lair for some of the most notorious pirates along the Spanish Main. Henry Morgan, the most famous of them, went on to become the British governor of Jamaica as Sir Henry Morgan.
A large population that is descended from the ancient Maya lives in Cozumel—you'll know them by their Mayan dialect, round faces, dark almond-shaped eyes, coal-black hair and short stature. The women wear traditional embroidered huipil dresses, which look like sacks and help keep them cool in the heat of the day. Black coral used to be harvested by native divers who plunged more than 100 ft/31 m beneath the surface of the ocean without the use of air tanks. Now the coral is on the endangered list, and its sale is prohibited by international law.
The island's airport was used as a U.S. Navy base during World War II.
Cozumel's Ironman Triathlon each fall is considered the best in the country and draws scores of international participants.
Biodegradable sunscreen is the only sunscreen permitted in Cozumel waters. Most venues will provide it free of charge or for a small fee.
SEE & DO
Sightseeing
San Miguel, the only town on the island, is a lively place. Although the typical traveler-oriented attractions are centered on the Plaza del Sol and Avenida Rafael Melgar (the 9-mi/14-km waterfront road also known as the malecon), be sure to take a stroll through some of the streets farther inland. You'll see the houses of the town's residents and nontourist businesses with colorful, hand-painted signs. Shop windows overflow with shoes and everyday necessities.
Another slice of Cozumel life takes place in the plaza, just off the malecon, on Sunday evenings, when the town residents (and a fair number of visitors) turn out for a stroll. Many of the locals are decked out in their finery—this is where those brightly colored shoes get put through their paces. There's dancing, flirting and general merriment. It's also a great opportunity to sample homemade foods, such as tamales, that are sold by local women to raise money for their churches.
As far as formal attractions go, the most popular is Parque Nacional Chankanaab, south of San Miguel, which includes botanical gardens, a fish-filled lagoon, a beach, good snorkeling waters and activities such as swimming with dolphins. At the far southern end of the island is Faro Celarain Eco Park, formerly Punta Sur Ecological Park, a nature preserve where visitors board open-air trucks to see the sights.
There are some Maya ruins on the island. They're small in comparison with those at Tulum or Chichen Itza, but they're worth a visit nonetheless, especially if archaeology is an interest, or if you're up for a jungle adventure. The best-preserved ruins are at San Gervasio, in the middle of the island, and El Cedral on the southern part of the island. There are also others, less visited, at Faro Celarain Eco Park.
Historic Sites
Capilla Santa Cruz de Cuzamil Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Cozumel celebrated the 500th anniversary of its founding by Spanish 987-872-7511 explorers in 2018. Even though history says it was a bloody encounter, Phone: present day Cozumel prefers to call it the anniversary of the meeting of https://www.facebook.com/CapillaCozumel two cultures, the Maya and Spanish. As part of the commemoration, this chapel was built on the site near Playa Casitas near the malecon, which is open to visitors. Phone 987-872-7511. https://www.facebook.com/CapillaCozumel.
El Cedral El Cedral is located off the coastal road This small set of ruins on the southern end of the island is visited by fewer people than on the southern part of the island San Gervasio, so you may have the place to yourself. The ancient Maya built structures there, and it later became the first Spanish settlement on the island. It's where the Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico conquistadors, led by Cortes, supposedly celebrated the first Catholic Mass in Mexico (though Veracruz claims this honor, as well). A one-room cinderblock church commemorates the first Mass. Most of the Maya buildings that once stood at El Cedral were torn down by the Spanish, and the ruins were further damaged when the U.S. Army built an airstrip on the site during World War II. Of the Maya ruins, one small arch is all that's easily visible today. Smaller remnants are scattered in the bush around the site, but you'll need a guide and a horse to find them, both of which can be acquired near the arch. Admission to the site is free, but you'll have to pay if you want to take a tour on horseback. An ATV tour, also for a fee, takes you to a nearby cenote for a cool dip in the smooth waters. El Cedral is located off the coastal road on the southern part of the island, Cozumel. Punta Molas Faro Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico This isolated lighthouse on the north shore of the island is rarely visited, making its beach a wonderful getaway for those who like solitude and a magnificent view of the ocean. Although it's a great spot for birding, getting there by car is daunting, and you'll have to walk part of the way. The best bet is to go by boat or on a guided tour. Located at the northernmost tip of the island.
San Gervasio Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico The best-preserved ruins on the island, this site is small and compact, and the temples are barely one story high. A spiritual center for the https://www.inah.gob.mx/zonas/101- Maya, where men and women came by canoe to pay homage to the zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio goddess Ixchel, there are stelae, plazas and six structures to visit. The temple nearest the entrance once contained a steam bath used for purification rituals. A few hundred feet/meters away are smaller buildings where researchers believe priests would gather with pilgrims to interpret their dreams. Don't miss the temple with red handprints on the walls. It's thought that all of the buildings were once connected by roads made of limestone. Knowledgeable guides wait at the entrance to the site and will give you a tour for a fee. Daily 8 am-4:30 pm. M$80 adults. https://www.inah.gob.mx/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio.
Museo de la Isla de Cozumel Avenida Rafael Melgar If you are interested in learning about the history of the region, visit this Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 charming little museum housed in what was the island's first luxury hotel. Stroll through exhibits detailing the coral-reef system around Phone: 987-872-1475 Cozumel, the early history of the Maya and the saga of piracy around the island. There are lots of other little nuggets as well, such as a display about Charles Lindbergh's 1928 visit to the island in his famous Spirit of St. Louis plane. Don't miss the replica of a traditional Mayan house in a courtyard with an explanation by a Maya guide of the medicinal herbs still used for healing today. Stop in for a bite to eat at the second-floor restaurant, which has stunning views of the ocean. Daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission runs about US$5. Special cultural programs are free. Avenida Rafael Melgar (between calles 4 and 6 Norte), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-1475.
Navigational Museum Faro Celerain Eco Park The Punta Celerain Faro lighthouse stands between both the southern Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 and eastern coastal highways and is home to a notable navigational museum that contains a number of interesting displays, although the views across the island's southern tip are perhaps the highlight of any visit. (One can climb the narrow, winding stairs to the top of the lighthouse for the best scenery.) Nearby, a rugged beach is a good place for a stroll. Daily 7 am-4 pm. Admission is covered in the cost to enter the Faro Celerain Eco Park (US$12). Faro Celerain Eco Park, Cozumel.
San Miguel Pax Music Museum Avenida Benito Juarez The San Miguel Pax Music Museum boasts a collection of hundreds of Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 different musical instruments from around the world, taking in more than 2,000 years of history. The traditional and indigenous Mayan flutes and Phone: 987-872-5269 classical Mexican guitars are always favorites there. A gift shop sells http://www.islacozumel.net/services/pax music-related souvenirs, along with some local arts and crafts such as ritual masks. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. Admission US$4. Avenida Benito Juarez (at Avenida 15 Norte), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-5269. http://www.islacozumel.net/services/pax.
Discover Mexico Carretera Costera Sur Km. 55, Zona If you don't have time to visit the entire country, the country comes to you at this park in an amazing two-hour tour. Artful displays of Mexico's Hotelera Sur monuments and cultures take in tequila- and handicraft-making, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 miniatures of ancient ruins, monasteries and convents, volcanoes and Phone: 987-857-2820 Mexico City's famous Zocalo square, with a film on Mexico as an introduction. A cafe gives you a taste of Mexico's best java, and a gift https://discovermexicopark.com shop has the highest quality crafts on the island. Monday-Saturday 8 am-4 pm. From US$26 adults. Carretera Costera Sur Km. 55, Zona Hotelera Sur, Cozumel. Phone 987-857-2820. Toll-free 866-464-6205. https://discovermexicopark.com.
Faro Celarain Eco Park The park is off Carretera Sur (the This national preserve at the southern tip of the island (formerly Punta Sur Ecological Park) contains 247 acres/100 hectares of jungle, wetlands, lagoons and beaches. Before southern coastal highway) Km. 27 the park was established, this was one of the most isolated places on Cozumel, known Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico primarily for the lighthouse there. Today, it still offers plenty of solitude, and cars are Phone: 987-872-0914 prohibited from entering the grounds. Instead, trucks with two-story decks are used to http://www.cozumelparks.com transport visitors through the park to view the birds and jungle vegetation and to spend time at the preserve's nice beach with hammocks. Electric bikes can also be rented for US$6 per hour if you wish to explore the park on your own, and there are kayaks and snorkeling equipment for rent. During the winter months, catamaran tours are sometimes available to nearby Colombia Lagoon, where you can do some more bird-watching and view crocodiles. (There's good bonefishing on the flats of the lagoon.) The lighthouse has been turned into a navigation museum chronicling the region's maritime history from the time of the Maya to the present and has a spectacular view from the top. Daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission is US$12 adults; price includes a general tour of the park, plus access to the lighthouse and associated museum. The catamaran tour is included. The park is off Carretera Sur (the southern coastal highway) Km. 27, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0914. http://www.cozumelparks.com.
Parque Nacional Chankanaab Carretera Costera Sur Km. 9 This park is Cozumel's prime sightseeing and activity center, and it gives a lot of bang for the buck. It was built around a saltwater lagoon where you can observe sea life (swimming Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 in the lagoon is not allowed), and it also has a large stretch of oceanfront property Phone: 987-872-9760 consisting of sand leading up to rock ledges along the water. Once there, you can dive http://www.cozumelparks.com/esp/chankanaab.cfm and snorkel in the ocean to see the underwater reefs, statues and a fair number of fish, or you can swim with dolphins at Dolphin Discovery for an extra fee (http://www.dolphindiscovery.com). Scuba diving (including certification courses), sea trek and snuba excursions can also be booked. If you're traveling with small children, take them to swim in the specially protected children's lagoon where small fish are let in from the open sea. Away from the water, there's a botanical garden with hundreds of native tropical plants that have been labeled. You can also visit Maya Zone, a replica of a Maya village with an orientation on farming and building in ancient times. Bird-watchers will find frigate birds, tanagers, woodpeckers and swallows. Keep an eye out for the park's golden iguanas— some are as long as 3 ft/1 m. Two restaurants and changing areas are located on the beach. Plans for a Sea World-like facility have been announced, costing US$56 million. The building will showcase reefs and sea creatures, including noctural ones.
Get to the park early to stake out a good spot near the water. Monday-Saturday 8 am-4 pm. US$21 adults. Carretera Costera Sur Km. 9 (6 mi/9 km south of San Miguel), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-9760. Toll-free 866-393-5158 from the U.S. for Dolphin Discovery. http://www.cozumelparks.com/esp/chankanaab.cfm.
Recreation
Nearly all recreation on the island centers around the picturesque beachfront, with snorkeling, scuba diving, sportfishing, kayaking, windsurfing and sailing the most popular activities. Golf, tennis and horseback riding are also common. Groups can also sign up for Jeep tours and other off-road adventures.
Beaches
There are three types of beaches on Cozumel. First, there are some stretches of white sand on the west side of the island, where most of the resorts and attractions are located. These beaches front mostly calm, turquoise-colored water sheltered by the Yucatan mainland, making it good for swimming and snorkeling. The best of the sandy beaches are Playa Azul, Playa Pila and Playa San Juan to the north; and Playa San Francisco, Playa Mia Grand Beach Park, Mr. Sancho's, Nachi Cocom and Playa Palancar to the south.
Also on the west side of the island, you'll find "beaches" made of brown limestone, a phenomenon known as "iron shore." To get into the water, you'll usually have to use a set of steps or a ladder from the shore or from a pier. Although iron shore isn't as picturesque as the white beaches, such areas are usually better for snorkeling. The waterfront at Parque Nacional Chankanaab is iron shore, but some sand has been trucked in to create a more pleasant sunning area.
On the east side of the island, facing the open waters of the Caribbean Sea, there are pristine beaches of white sand that are largely deserted. They're beautiful, but the water there can be dangerous, plagued by rough surf and dangerous undertows (which is why so few people frequent the beaches). These shores can be good for lounging, but we recommend that you stay out of the water. You should also keep in mind that the east side is mostly uninhabited save for a few ramshackle but charming restaurants and beach bars.
Mr. Sancho's Carretera Costera Sur Km. 15 "Loco on the beach" is the slogan of this place, where you'll find the most complete assortment of activities in Cozumel. Lounge under a Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 palapa on the beach, enjoy the seafood restaurant, swing on the Phone: 987-871-9174 benches in Chichi's bar, relax in the 30-person whirlpool, or participate http://www.mrsanchos.com in a brief seminar on tequila and mescal. Rent a speedboat, go parasailing, go horseback riding, or take an ATV or motorcycle tour of the jungle. A shopping area re-creates the ambience of a colorful Mexican town, complete with locally made crafts. Monday-Saturday 8 am-5 pm. Carretera Costera Sur Km. 15, Cozumel. Phone 987-871- 9174. http://www.mrsanchos.com.
Nachi Cocom Beach Club Carretera a Chankanaab Km. 16.5, If you want to combine sunning on a wide, white-sand beach with a Costera Sur good lunch and lots of activities, Nachi Cocom is the right place. Visitors can rent WaveRunners, go parasailing, kayaking, snorkeling, fishing or Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 simply lounge on the beach or by the pool followed by a session of Phone: 987-857-1157 massage or hair braiding. Monday-Saturday 8 am-5 pm. All-inclusive http://www.cozumelnachicocom.com pricing is US$55 adults. Attendance is limited to 100 guests per day, so reservations are encouraged, especially during the busy season and holidays. Carretera a Chankanaab Km. 16.5, Costera Sur, Cozumel. Phone 987-857-1157. http://www.cozumelnachicocom.com.
Palancar Carretera Sur Km. 18 This wide beach lies in front of the most famous reef in Cozumel. There, local businesses offer such water activities as kayaking, Jet-Skiing, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 sailing, snorkeling and scuba diving for beginners. A palapa-style restaurant in the middle of a great jungle setting serves typical Yucatan dishes and seafood. Daily 10 am-4 pm. No admission fee. Carretera Sur Km. 18, Cozumel.
Playa Mia Grand Beach Park Carretera Costera Sur Km. 15, Zona Formerly Playa Sol, this is a lovely beach area that's ideal for swimming Hotelera Sur and snorkeling. There are underwater replicas of Maya statues to look at if you get tired of the fish. You can also rent a kayak or sailboat, scale Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 a floating climbing wall, go parasailing, have lunch at one of the Phone: 987-872-9040 restaurants and visit a small zoo. On the down side, loud music is often https://www.playamia.com blasting at the beach, and there are a lot of in-your-face souvenir vendors. Daily 9 am-6 pm. US$30 admission. Carretera Costera Sur Km. 15, Zona Hotelera Sur, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-9040. https://www.playamia.com.
Playa San Francisco Carretera Sur Km. 15 One of the oldest beaches in Cozumel and shared by several hotels, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Playa San Francisco has up-to-date facilities. Maya structures rim the wide, safe beach. The on-site restaurant offers seafood and Mexican cuisine, and there are plenty of watersports and beach activities, as well as a large area for sunbathing. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Carretera Sur Km. 15, Cozumel.
Most beachfront hotels rent sailboarding equipment. Expect to pay US$50-$60 for up to two hours. Parasailing is also possible. Cozumel Sailing Carretera Norte Km. 3 Charter a sailboat (a 35-ft/11-m trimaran or a 22-ft/7-m sloop), with or Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico without crew, for a variety of excursions: sunset sails, all-day adventure sails or deep-sea fishing. Reservations required. Rates start at US$90 Phone: 987-869-2312 adults. Sailing lessons offered. Carretera Norte Km. 3 (at Puerto Abrigo http://www.cozumelsailing.com Marina North), Cozumel. Phone 987-869-2312 or 987-869-1777. http://www.cozumelsailing.com.
Although no fishing is allowed near Cozumel's protected reefs, the waters around the island have some of the best fishing in the Caribbean, particularly at the drop-off near Playa del Carmen. Catch includes swordfish, blue and black marlin (catch-and-release only), shark, wahoo and barracuda, depending upon the time of the year. On the flats you can catch bonefish.
For a private charter, prices start around US$400 for the boat for a half-day excursion, and up to US$700 for a full day. Make plans in advance, or go to the marina, Puerto Abrigo at Carretera Norte Km. 3, and deal directly with the boat captains there.
Albatros Charters Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Offers private sportfishing charters. Rates vary depending on the length 987-872-7904 of the trip and the size of the boat. Boats hold a minimum of six people. Phone: Individuals can join a group for an additional fee. Phone 987-872-7904. http://www.cozumel-fishing.com Toll-free 888-333-4643 from the U.S. http://www.cozumel-fishing.com.
Cozumel Fishing Charters Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Offers deep-sea outings, bottom fishing, fly-fishing tours and combination outings with a variety of local suppliers. Phone 987-869- Phone: 987-869-8560 8560. Toll-free 877-288-7765 from the U.S. http://www.fishingcozumel.net http://www.fishingcozumel.net.
Cozumel Country Club Carretera Costera Norte Km. 6.5 The island moved one step up the tourism hierarchy when this course opened. The 18-hole, par-72 layout was designed by Jack Nicklaus. Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Carretera Costera Norte Km. 6.5, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-9570. Phone: 987-872-9570 http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Cozumel-Country-Club. http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Cozumel- Country-Club
Rancho Buenavista Avenida Rafael Melgar Scenic setting for guided horseback rides through rugged tropical Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 landscape. Can accommodate individuals or groups. Monday-Saturday 9 am-3 pm. Avenida Rafael Melgar (at Calle 11 Sur), Cozumel. Phone Phone: 987-872-1537 987-872-1537 or 987-872-4374.
Jacques Cousteau introduced the world to the underwater life of Cozumel in the 1960s, and despite some damage from overuse and hurricanes, the reefs that ring the island remain wonderful places to snorkel and scuba dive—some are close enough that you can swim to them from shore. Famous around the world, this Great Mayan Reef marks the beginning of a 600-mi-/965-km-long reef system that stretches south to Central America. Dive shops are plentiful—the Cozumel Association of Dive Operators includes more than 100 certified dive shops, many of which operate out of the resorts. Cozumel also has several decompression chambers—it was the first Mexican resort area to do so—which earns the island kudos for safety.
Divers generally can expect visibility of 100 ft/30 m, but it's even better than that at Palancar Reef, at the southern end of the island. Expect to see coral of every color of the rainbow. The rest of the marine life is colorful, too: anemones, starfish, octopuses, lobster, crabs and, on a larger scale, graceful rays and dolphins. San Francisco Reef is popular for its plentiful fish, and the Santa Rosa Wall and the Colombia Pinnacles rate high for sheer excitement as well as for bountiful sea life.
Because of strong currents, Cozumel dive operators practice a style of diving known as "drift diving." Divers relax and float with the 5- to 6-knot Guiana Current, and dive-boat captains follow behind and pick up their groups at the end of the dive. With so many fine dive operations on the island, it's a buyer's market. If you happen to be visiting in the off-season (May-early December), you can shop around once you get there. During high season, it's best to reserve in advance. You must be a certified diver and present your certification card to go diving, although some shops offer an introductory course for beginners (check locally).
Expect to pay around US$75 for a two-tank dive with boat trip, water and soft drinks included.
The most accessible place to snorkel is the Parque Nacional Chankanaab, about 6 mi/10 km south of San Miguel. Another possibility is Airplane Flats in front of the El Cid La Ceiba Beach Hotel, where a plane was sunk in shallow water for the filming of a movie. Snorkeling gear rents for about US$5 a day. Another option to consider is one of the island's many snorkel tours to Palancar Gardens and Colombia Shallow Reef. Prices range US$50-$65 for a guided group snorkeling trip with boat.
Note: Always be careful when snorkeling in Cozumel. Currents along the west side of the island can be swift, and even though most are located away from the shoreline, that's not always the case. On the east coast, the water is much rougher, with stronger currents and undertows. Never go snorkeling or diving alone.
Aqua Safari Ave. Rafael Melgar 429 Perfect for those who are new to diving, Aqua Safari has received many accolades for safety and expertise in working with novice divers. Also Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 offers more than 20 intermediate and advanced courses geared for Phone: 987-872-0101 open water, dive masters and underwater photography. Expect to pay http://www.aquasafari.com US$75-$85 for a two-tank dive, not including equipment rental and a small park fee; add US$15 for a third tank dive on the same trip. Night dives are US$45, and a one-tank afternoon dive is US$35. Ave. Rafael Melgar 429 (between calles 5 and 7 Sur), Cozumel. Phone 987-872- 0101. http://www.aquasafari.com.
Deep Blue Adolfo Rosado Salas 200 This company offers several levels of certification (PADI, TDI, IANTD). Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Its divers know the best reefs and use advanced equipment to find the perfect spots to dive. Rental equipment is available, too. Adolfo Rosado Phone: 987-872-5653 Salas 200, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-5653. http://www.deepbluecozumel.com http://www.deepbluecozumel.com.
Dive Jamanta Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico With offices in New Zealand as well as Mexico, this dive outfit caters to https://www.divejamanta.com/scuba- the newbie as well as more advanced divers. Led by a PADI and SSI- certified instructor, the classes are booked for no more than six people diving-in-mexico at a time and range from open water, rescue diver, Nitrox and dive master. Beginners start out in a pool and classes are US$99 for a two- hour session. Classes for children available. https://www.divejamanta.com/scuba-diving-in-mexico.
Dive Paradise Ave. Rafael Melgar 602 This company offers dive training at all levels and a variety of dive trips Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 by day or night, either singly or in packages. The company has six locations around Cozumel; you can rent or buy equipment at its main Phone: 987-869-0503 store on Avenida Melgar and at the Costa Club Resort. Daily 8 am-9 http://www.diveparadise.com pm. Two-tank dive trips start at M$78; one-tank trips start at M$44. Ave. Rafael Melgar 602, Cozumel. Phone 987-869-0503 or 987-872-1007. http://www.diveparadise.com.
Snuba and Sea Trek Carreterra Sur Km. 9 These below-the-waves adventures are available at Chankanaab Park, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 upping the array of activities already on tap. Snuba has participants connected to air hoses as they goggle their way past fish and coral to Phone: 987-878-4647 depths of 20 ft/6 m. Sea Trekkers don spacelike white helmets with their http://seatrekcozumel.com own air supply—they don't even get their eyelashes wet as they walk on sand 25 ft/8 m under the water. No swimming skills needed. Tours leave every hour 9 am-3 pm next to Dolphin Discovery at the park. Price is US$65 per person. Carreterra Sur Km. 9, Cozumel. Phone 987-878- 4647. http://seatrekcozumel.com. Most all-inclusive resorts feature a spa or at least some spa services such as massage therapy. However, in some cases the term "spa" may be tacked onto a resort's name without genuine merit. As a general rule of thumb, check a hotel's website to see if it provides a detailed description of its spa facilities and services. Resorts with full-service spas are proud of them and, in most cases, will provide numerous photos and specific details about available services.
There are also a number of options on the island for day visits.
Acqua Spa Costera Sur Km. 2.4 Set just off the southwestern turn of the Costera Sur highway, in a white, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 three-story bungalow with Spanish tile, this secluded spa offers undisturbed views of nature while offering a suite of treatments. Phone: 987-872-7192 Massages (including Swedish, hot stone and aromatherapy), facials, body wraps, hydrotherapy, waxing and laser hair removal are all offered with prices ranging US$50-$150. A small gym is available, and Pilates instruction is offered. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm; Saturday 9 am-6 pm. Costera Sur Km. 2.4, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-7192.
Islander Spa Cozumel Carretera Costera Sur Km. 12.9 Day guests are welcome at this elaborate modern spa located at the Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Aura Cozumel Resort. The facility has five elegant single treatment cabins, five couples' cabins, three whirlpool tubs and dedicated steam Phone: 987-872-9300 rooms for men and women. Massage, body wraps and polishes, facials, http://www.auraresorts.com/eng/islander_spa.asp aromatherapy, and other treatments using modern and ancient healing rituals are offered. Beauty and hair services are available. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Most treatments cost US$55-$120. Carretera Costera Sur Km. 12.9, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-9300. http://www.auraresorts.com/eng/islander_spa.asp.
Spa del Sol Calle 5 Sur No. 34, downtown With a pleasant and unassuming office a few blocks from the square in Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico San Miguel, Spa del Sol is a convenient retreat from the bustle outside. In addition to traditional services, including an array of massages, skin Phone: 987-872-6474 treatments and beauty services, the spa features special treatments, http://www.spadelsolcozumel.com such as Reiki, acupuncture, aromatherapy, Bach Flowers and ear candling. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Prices US$30-$120. Calle 5 Sur No. 34, downtown (between avenidas Rafael Melgar and 5), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-6474. http://www.spadelsolcozumel.com.
Melia Cozumel Beach Resort Carretera Costera Norte Km. 5.8 The resort's tennis courts are open to nonguests. Court fees are US$15-$30 an hour. Carretera Costera Norte Km. 5.8, Cozumel. Phone Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 987-872-9870. http://www.melia.com/en/hotels/mexico/cozumel/melia- Phone: 987-872-9870 cozumel-all-inclusive-golf-and-beach-resort/home.htm. http://www.melia.com/en/hotels/mexico/cozumel/melia- cozumel-all-inclusive-golf-and-beach- resort/home.htm
Nightlife
San Miguel's nightlife is sparse and low-key compared to Playa del Carmen or Cancun and is centered downtown—it has more than 100 different restaurants, nightspots and bars—but the resort hotels also frequently offer musical entertainment at dinner. There's one on- again, off-again disco, but some restaurants have music, dancing, zany antics by the waitstaff and lots of noise that more than makes up for its absence. When holidays and vacation periods roll around, most nightspots stay open a few hours longer if there's a crowd. For salsa dancing, several small bars and restaurants have live music, especially on weekends. Events are listed at http://salsacozumel.com.
Depending on the time of year, some of the resort-hotels have folkloric programs with dancing and mariachis (check locally). And don't forget about Sunday night in Plaza del Sol, where local families turn out for the free concerts with impromptu dancing in the square.
Bars, Taverns & Pubs
Senor Frog's Party Central might be a more apt name, as Senor Frog's proves night Waterfront after night why this chain bar and restaurant is ever-present in Mexican beach towns. U.S. rock and pop classics blare through the sound Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 system while sunburned divers and wobbly cruise-ship passengers sip Phone: 987-869-1652 tropical cocktails, dance to Village People songs and take photos they'll http://www.senorfrogs.com likely delete later. Politely decline the hard sell of Frog's merchandise by the waiters if you’re not interested in buying. There is a second location downtown in the Punta Langosta Mall. Waterfront (between calles 7 and 11; across from the Punta Langosta pier), Cozumel. Phone 987-869- 1652. http://www.senorfrogs.com.
OFF Site Waterfront Formerly Dubai, this dance club—the only true disco on the island—has Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico had a series of owners and seems to open and close at the drop of a hat. When it's open, you can enjoy multiple bars and dance floors. Phone: 987-872-2143 Friday and Saturday starting at 8 pm. Cover M$70 after midnight. Waterfront (at Calle 11), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-2143.
Performing Arts
The cultural scene on Cozumel is rather limited other than the annual festivities honoring Catholic saints. A weekly concert is held in the town square each Sunday evening with traditional local and regional music, dance and food.
The large all-inclusive resorts have in-house theaters with nightly shows put on by the staff, but these are open only to guests.
Cozumel is more a place to play sports than to watch them. There is a small baseball stadium and soccer arena, but these games are generally for the locals.
Bullfights are held each Wednesday on the mainland in Cancun.
A favorite pastime of nearly every visitor to Cozumel is shopping, and for good reason. Although prices for most crafts are quite high compared to other parts of Mexico, you'll find good buys on a wide variety of regional items: woven hammocks, leather purses and sandals, cotton clothing, ceramics, silver and gold jewelry, onyx and liquor. You can also find bargains on other Mexican handicrafts such as brightly colored baskets, papier-mache figures and wood carvings.
The main shopping district surrounds the plaza and spreads out north and south along Avenida Melgar—the malecon—and the flea market is located at Calle 1 Sur, near the main plaza. Hawkers selling inexpensive trinkets and sometimes dubious-quality jewelry now line the street from the main plaza to the cruise-ship malls. Walk on the seaside sidewalk to avoid them. Buy silver, gold and semiprecious gemstone jewelry from reputable merchants, and be sure to look for the .925 stamp on silver, which verifies that it is .925 parts pure sterling. Don't be fooled by "German" silver, which isn't stamped, and is made of nickel. And don't forget to explore the side streets leading off the plaza where you can often find lower prices and unusual crafts. Shops along the busy malecon open and close at the drop of a hat, so where you shopped last vacation may have been replaced by a bar or restaurant.
The cruise-ship piers at Punta Langosta, International Pier and Puerta Maya have malls with high-end boutiques and specialty shops, which vary with each pier's shopping experience. You'll find high-fashion clothing, crafts, cosmetics, electronics, jewelry (especially diamonds) and more casual name-brand wear. They are worth checking out even if you are only window shopping.
Almost all stores accept U.S. dollars as well as pesos. Often you'll find prices marked in both currencies—and sometimes only in U.S. dollars. Most major credit cards are readily accepted. (You often can get a better price if you offer cash—U.S. dollars or pesos—instead of credit cards.)
Do be prepared to bargain. In fact, it's expected in most markets and street stalls (though not in upscale boutiques) and can be entertaining for both buyer and seller—Cozumelenos are good-humored about the whole process. A good way to start is to offer half of what is asked. Then both negotiators work toward the middle. But don't bargain for something unless you really want it: It's considered rude not to buy after your price has been accepted.
Although you may see shops selling black coral jewelry, be aware that it's on the endangered list of international trade and will be confiscated at U.S. customs and other countries when returning home, even if the seller provides a certificate.
Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-9:30 pm with reduced hours on Sunday. Some stores away from the main tourist areas close for two hours during the midafternoon siesta. Markets
El Mercado Avenida Rosado Salas This is the island's food market, where you can buy local spices, honey, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico dried chiles and Mexican pottery. You'll see plenty of Cuban cigars being sold, too, but be aware that they cannot be legally taken back to the U.S., and some of them may be fakes. Daily 7 am-3 pm. Avenida Rosado Salas (between avenidas 20 and 25), Cozumel.
Plaza del Sol Plaza del Sol This shopping center has two floors of crafts and jewelry, but quality Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico varies—be sure to check purchases carefully. The merchandise includes items from all over Mexico. It opens onto a patio surrounded by shops selling silver and ceramics. Nearby is a branch of one of the world's most upscale jewelers, Van Cleef & Arpels. Plaza del Sol (east side of the main square in San Miguel), Cozumel.
Black Pearl Calle 6 Norte This little shop on a side street, also called Perla Negra, sells freshwater Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico and saltwater pearls, including big oval ones from Australia. Mexican pearls of all sizes and quality are the least expensive of the bunch. Black Phone: 987-872-0821 pearls also abound. All are fashioned into necklaces, earrings and http://www.cozumelpearls.com pendants. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm. Calle 6 Norte (between avenidas 5 and Rosado Salas), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0821. http://www.cozumelpearls.com.
Blue Agave Ave. 5 No. 98 A tequila boutique stocking more than 250 brands, with a sideline of Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico excellent mescals made in Oaxaca State. Aged and "white" Don Julio, Jose Cuervo and Herradura are a few varieties up for free samples. The store ships to the U.S. and prices range US$15-$200. There's a walk-in cigar humidor in the back. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Ave. 5 No. 98 (between avenidas Benito Juarez and 2 Norte), Cozumel.
Cariloha Avenida Rafael E. Melgar #33 Everything made from bamboo to keep you cool is stocked at this trendy Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 shop. Browse for men's and women's clothing, sleepwear, bath and bed articles. Monday-Saturday 8 am-8 pm. Avenida Rafael E. Melgar #33, Phone: 987-869-0286 Cozumel. Phone 987-869-0286. https://www.cariloha.com/stores/cozumel- https://www.cariloha.com/stores/cozumel-downtown. downtown
Chocolateria Isla Bella Avenida 5 (between calles 2 and 4 Chocolate lovers and those needing a sweet fix head there to sample Norte) the goods made by a mother-daughter team. A few favorites are the lime-coconut, triple chocolate and berry confections. Free samples. Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Monday-Saturday noon-9:30 pm. Avenida 5 (between calles 2 and 4 Phone: 987-111-8642 Norte), Cozumel. Phone 987-111-8642. https://www.chocolateriaislabella.com https://www.chocolateriaislabella.com.
Galeria Azul Ave. 15 N. No. 449 Greg Dietrich has exhibits of his engraved blown glass, colorful silk Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 scarves and works of other island artists at his studio. Visitors can also see him at work on his original pieces inspired by Cozumel's underwater Phone: 987-872-0963 reef life. Monday-Friday 11 am-7 pm. Ave. 15 N. No. 449 (between http://www.cozumelglassart.com calles 8 and 10), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0963. http://www.cozumelglassart.com.
Havana Bob's Cuban Cigars Avenida 5 Sur, across the street from This store offers around 30 brands of hand-rolled cigars from Cuba in Banorte Bank their original wrappings. It claims to carry no fakes, and stocks such names as Vegueros, Cohiba and Marquez. Daily 10:30 am-4 pm and 7- Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 10:30 pm. Avenida 5 Sur, across the street from Banorte Bank (between Phone: 987-103-5726 calles 3 and 5 Sur), Cozumel. Phone 987-103-5726. https://www.facebook.com/CozumelCubanCigarsHavanaBobs https://www.facebook.com/CozumelCubanCigarsHavanaBobs.
Los Cinco Soles Ave. Rafael Melgar N. No. 27 One of the oldest luxury stores in town, Los Cinco Soles occupies an Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico entire block along the malecon, north of the ferry pier. If you don't have time to visit other shops, head there for one-stop shopping. It sells Phone: 987-872-9004 everything from high-quality Talavera pottery, jewelry, clothing and http://www.loscincosoles.com hand-blown glass to Mexican furniture and liquor. Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm. Ave. Rafael Melgar N. No. 27, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-9004. http://www.loscincosoles.com.
Mr. Buho Malecon Fresh-looking black and white clothing with simple lines for women as Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico well as men draw customers to this small shop near the main plaza. Hard-to-find, classical guayabera shirts for men are also stocked. Phone: 987-982-1601 Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm. Malecon (between calles 3 and 5), Cozumel. Phone 987-982-1601.
Pama Ave. Rafael Melgar S. No. 9 This store specializes in high-quality, duty-free jewelry, perfumes, watches and some casual clothing. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-9:30 pm. Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Ave. Rafael Melgar S. No. 9 (at Punta Langosta Pier, along the Phone: 987-872-0090 malecon), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0090.
Pax—La Casa de la Musica Avenida 15 Housed in a museum, this unique store has a remarkable collection of Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico musical instruments from all over Mexico, as well as some from Central and South America. The shop also carries a selection of beautiful wood Phone: 987-872-5269 carvings, masks and other unusual handicrafts. Monday-Saturday 9 am- http://www.islacozumel.net/services/pax 6 pm. Avenida 15 (at Avenida Benito Juarez), Cozumel. Phone 987-872- 5269. http://www.islacozumel.net/services/pax.
Raices Handcrafts Ave. 10 No. 172 This tiny shop has unique papier-mache Mardi Gras masks, cat and Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico bear figures, and a whole shelf of Frida Kahlo-themed knick-knacks made by the owner's daughter. Also hand-embroidered bags from Phone: 987-869-0334 Chiapas, pewter crosses and other Mexico mementos. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ave. 10 No. 172 (between avenidas Rosado Salas and 1), Cozumel. Phone 987-869-0334.
Tucan Avenida Rafael Melgar Sells Mexican Talavera pottery, blown glassware and items made of pewter. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-8 pm. Avenida Rafael Melgar (at Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Calle 8 Norte), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-1586. Phone: 987-872-1586
UltraFemme Ave. Rafael Melgar No. 341 More than 500 brands of cosmetics, jewelry and perfumes by Dior, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Lancome, Chanel and others. All are sold at duty-free prices, making items in this store a bargain. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Ave. Rafael Melgar No. Phone: 987-872-1217 341, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-1217. http://www.ultrafemme.com. http://www.ultrafemme.com
Veari Malecon Sells hand-crafted leather boots, belts, wallets and purses made in Guadalajara, one of the country's premier leather centers. Designs Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico aren't fancy, but the workmanship is solid. Malecon (between calles 2 Phone: 987-878-4158 Norte and Benito Juarez), Cozumel. Phone 987-878-4158.
Itinerary Day Trips
To Chichen Itza. One of Mexico's prized archaeological sites sits in the middle of the Yucatan Peninsula. Named one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, it contains a variety of buildings built between the fifth and 13th centuries. Although some were the products of the Maya, some structures have been influenced by the Itzaes, a group from the southern Yucatan related to the Maya. Intricate, graceful stone carvings are very well-preserved, and some of the sculpture that is shaded from the sun still shows traces of color. The 79-ft-/24-m-tall, pyramid-shaped Temple of Kukulkan, or El Castillo, dominates the site. Smaller temples in the older part of the ruins are slowly being rebuilt and are worth a visit.
From Cozumel, the most practical way to get to Chichen Itza is to take a tour that flies you to the ruins. A guided introduction to the site is usually included, and many tours also give you time to explore on your own. You can also reach the ruins by traveling overland, and with the new highway on the mainland cutting down drive time, it also can be accomplished in one day. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Admission is generally included in the price of the tour and includes a light-and-sound show at 7 or 8 pm.
To Tulum. These ancient Maya ruins on the mainland were still inhabited when the first Spaniards arrived—it was said to have been larger than Seville at the time. Small compared with most archaeological sites, Tulum is the only Maya site next to the sea and perched on a cliff for a mesmerizing view of the Caribbean. The buildings don't rival Chichen Itza's in size or number—most are roped off to prevent damage by the hordes of visitors—but the setting is spectacular. A beach at the foot of the cliff with a wooden stairwell leading down to it adds to the picture-postcard quality of the area, and swimming is permitted.
Though you can take a tour to Tulum, you can save some money by going on your own, and it's quite easy to do. Begin by taking the ferry to Playa del Carmen. Once you land, make the short walk to the ADO Bus Terminal, where you can catch a bus headed south. It will drop you off on the highway outside the ruins. Then you hike about a half-mile/kilometer to catch a shuttle (US$1 fee) depositing you at the entrance to the pyramids. Get there early in the morning to avoid the tour-bus crowds. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Admission is US$6.
To Coba. If you have time and feel adventurous, take the inland highway branching off 307 near Tulum and head for this mysterious Maya city, thought to have once been the commercial hub of the Mayan empire in the northern Yucatan. Mostly unexcavated and covered by jungle, the site is crisscrossed with limestone-paved roads. It has some of the tallest pyramids and temples in the region. Coba is much less crowded than Tulum, and to see the major stelae, ball court and temples on foot will take you several hours more than at Tulum. Dress for hiking, and take water and insect repellent. You may want to steer clear of Coba in July and August, when temperatures can hover around 100 F/38 C.
You can save money there by catching a bus from Playa del Carmen, which runs twice daily to and from the ruins, or take a taxi from Tulum for around US$30 one way. Then take the bus back to Playa. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Admission is US$5. A tour in a bike-taxi runs US$10, and to rent your own bike costs US$4.
To Playa del Carmen. This funky beach town, a 35-minute ferry ride away, is a world apart from Cozumel. Its main street, Avenida 5, a block from the shore, has a reputation as the social center of the Riviera Maya coast. Most day-trippers go for the exceptional shopping and restaurants. Small crafts shops sell one-of-a-kind items such as amber jewelry made from Mexico's own amber mines. Hand-tooled textiles and creative bark paintings are all sold by the artists themselves. Bistros ranging from sandwich shops to haute international cuisine line the streets along with cozy cafes and pizza places. The best time to arrive is the early evening when the social scene heats up: Roving musicians play for tips, the locals come out in the cool of the day and there's always a friendly bar open for a nightcap.
Some of the coast's best ecotourism companies are located there, which take visitors to Maya ruins and remote Maya villages to kayak, zipline and tour underwater caves. Luxury hotels offer spas filled with exotic body treatments and massages culled from ancient Maya lore. The Cozumel ferry has about six departures a day between 5 am and 10 pm, depending on the day of the week.
Snorkeling and diving tours head Cozumel's list of favorites, followed closely by the Maya ruins, swimming with dolphins, and nature- and ecoparks. All major hotels have reputable travel desks to help guests make arrangements for tours, and the smaller inns usually work with a trusted travel agency.
If you are arriving in Cozumel on a cruise ship, be aware that local laws forbid independent tour operators from picking you up at the pier. You'll have to take a taxi to a rendezvous point arranged by your tour operator.
The average tour runs US$105.
Atlantis Adventures Carreterra Chankanaab Km. 4, Zona Visitors stay dry as a submarine ferries them 100 ft/31 m below the Hotelera Sur surface to catch a glimpse of the famed reefs and vibrant sea life at Chankanaab Park. The 40-minute tour includes a live narration as you Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 observe tiger sharks, lobsters, camouflaged fish and the occasional Phone: 987-872-5671 scuba diver. Carreterra Chankanaab Km. 4, Zona Hotelera Sur, http://www.atlantissubmarines.travel Cozumel. Phone 987-872-5671. http://www.atlantissubmarines.travel. Cozumel Chef Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Emily Egge, a New Jersey chef with a yen for good eating, has started http://www.cozumelchef.com the first restaurant tour of Cozumel, covering the little out-of-the-way places that locals swear by. You won't find them on any tourist map. This is where a Yucatecan sopa de lima (lime soup), black conch ceviche and tortillas don't get any fresher. The three-hour tour includes meals and a tour of the Mercado, a bakery and four eateries, including one where the owner belts out Mexican songs. Cooking classes are another option. Reservations required. Tours run US$60-$80. http://www.cozumelchef.com.
Cozumel Tours Calle 2 N. No. 101 This agency arranges a variety of tours, including around-the-island Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico excursions, sunset cruises and outings to archaeological sites on the mainland. The Island tour starts at US$80 for adults; add-ons such as a Phone: 987-872-1098, Mayan chocolate tour or an excursion to Punta Sur cost extra. Calle 2 N. http://www.cozumel-tours.com No. 101 (between calles 5 and 10), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-1098, or 951-263-4680 in the U.S. http://www.cozumel-tours.com.
Hacienda Antigua Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Take a tour with Hacienda Antigua to find out how Mexico's national drink (tequila) is produced from the agave cactus. The tour concludes Phone: 987-869-4677 with a tasting and the opportunity to buy some tequila from its shop. https://www.cavaantigua.com Tours meet on the east side of the island, on the highway immediately after the turn-off for San Gervasio. Tours daily at 3 pm. US$15. Phone 987-869-4677. https://www.cavaantigua.com.
Pearl Farm Palma Reales 5-C A short boat ride whisks tourists to a working pearl farm and Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 conservation project to save the local pearl oyster, pictada radiate. Tour includes the pearl museum and snorkeling the pearl hatchery, followed Phone: 984-114-9604 by lunch. Swimming, lazing in a hammock or lying on the white-sand http://www.cozumel-mexico- beach wrap up the six-hour expedition. The boat tour departs from the vacation.com/Cozumel_Pearl_Farm.html Aqua Safari pier downtown. US$110 adults. Palma Reales 5-C (Zona Hotelera Norte), Cozumel. Phone 984-114-9604. http://www.cozumel- mexico-vacation.com/Cozumel_Pearl_Farm.html.
Wild Tours Uvas Beach Km. 8.5 Climb aboard an all-terrain vehicle to explore the dirt roads around the Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77622 El Cedral ruins, ending at a cenote for a cool swim, which you'll need after driving through all that mud. A four-hour tour with a single rider Phone: 987-872-5876 costs US$95; additional cost for two riders. For a two-hour tour with a http://www.wild-tours.com single rider, cost is US$75. Shoe rental is extra, or you can bring your own Crocs. The adventure outfit also offers swimming with sea turtles, dune buggy tours, and fly- and deep-sea fishing. Uvas Beach Km. 8.5 (at the corner of Calle 14 North, Colonia 10 De Abril), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-5876. Toll-free 888-497-4283 in the U.S. http://www.wild- tours.com.
These itineraries are designed to help you make the most of your time on the island. PLAN A
Beaches, Shops and Mariachis
The sun gets intense in this part of the Caribbean, so the safest time for sunning is before 11 am. First thing, grab your swimwear (and sunscreen) and head south of the cruise-ship piers to the public beach of San Francisco for swimming and lounging, or you can go to Parque Nacional Chankanaab for snorkeling or swimming with dolphins. Both places have restaurants, too, so you can spend the day if that's your desire.
When you've had enough sun and surf, change back into street clothes and catch a taxi to downtown San Miguel. Have lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants such as Las Palmeras. Then shop as you stroll through the many small streets that fan out from the plaza. Save some time for the air-conditioned Museo de la Isla de Cozumel, where the exhibits cover the fascinating history of the island. Or if you'd like to take home some Mexican clay pots and Yucatecan spices, go inland to the mercado (Avenida 25 and Rosado Salas), where locals shop for fresh produce. Another place for good bargains is the flea market (off Plaza del Sol), where you'll find arts and crafts from all over Mexico: pottery, silver, clothing and more.
In the evening, take a taxi to the hotel of your choice for dinner and the evening's entertainment. Many of the hotels have dinner shows with dancing and mariachis (check locally). If you still have energy, stop for a drink, live music and dancing at rowdy Carlos 'n Charlie's.
PLAN B
Waterworld
Some of the best views in Cozumel are underwater. If you like to snorkel, head to Parque Nacional Chankanaab, about 10 minutes from downtown San Miguel by taxi. You can view brightly colored fish and coral, as well as swim and play with dolphins (for an additional fee). The park also has lovely botanical gardens. After you've lazed on the beach awhile, you can walk to La Laguna, a huge thatched palapa on the bayfront, where you can buy sandwiches, hamburgers and seafood.
If you are a serious diver, you'll want to arrange a half- or full-day dive trip beforehand. Take a taxi to your dive shop. Cozumel has the second-largest coral-reef network in the world and an international reputation as a scuba-diving paradise. Experts and first-time divers alike will be impressed by the coral reefs and their surrounding abundant life. The outstanding visibility makes it easy to explore the 20 mi/32 km of reef and limestone caves and tunnels located about the island. Although Hurricane Wilma did some damage to the reefs near the surface in 2005, it also uncovered new caves.
One of the best dives is the Santa Rosa Wall. If you're a novice, Santa Rosa offers a shallow dive among coral formations, nurse sharks, rays and sea turtles. If you're planning a trip during high season (mid-December to late April), it's a good idea to contact a dive operator in advance. In the off-season, you can shop around once you get there. After you've emerged from the water, return to town for dinner and to enjoy mariachis.
PLAN C
Flora, Fauna and Ruins
Cozumel is covered with short, rather scrubby jungle that contains intriguing flora and offers opportunities to see iguanas, coatis, exotic birds and crocodiles. To appreciate the island's natural beauty, rent a car for the day and head south from San Miguel to Parque Nacional Chankanaab. Hundreds of native plants have been labeled in the botanical gardens that surround the park's saltwater lagoon. Watch, too, for birds and animals that make the gardens their home. (Bird-watchers and nature lovers shouldn't miss the gardens.) If you get hungry, pick up a quick lunch at the park.
Return to the highway and continue south past Playa San Francisco to Faro Celarain Eco Park at the southern end of the island. The lagoon there is another great place for bird-watching. Then follow the highway up the island's eastern side, stopping to enjoy the rugged vistas and watch turbulent waves lash the rocks. Lovely Playa Bonita is a great place to stop for a swim or just to soak up some sun. If you need some refreshment, several waterfront bars and restaurants are found along the road. Return to the car and take the cross-island highway to the turnoff for the ruins of San Gervasio. If you don't hire a guide, you can see the ruins in less than an hour. From there, return to San Miguel.
DINING
Dining Overview
Most restaurants in Cozumel are informal—"comfortably casual"—and jackets are almost never required. There is a wide range of prices. Seafood and authentic Yucatecan cuisine are specialties of the region and are hard to find in places such as Playa del Carmen and Cancun. Be careful of the habanero-pepper sauce, which is served on the side—it's made from one of the hottest peppers in the world.
Prices in Cozumel's restaurants tend to be higher than those in Playa del Carmen on the mainland.
Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$15-$25; $$$ = US$26-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.
Casa Mission Calle 55 This place is known as much for its setting as for its Mexican cuisine and Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 seafood. Located in a large Mexican hacienda-style home that is surrounded by gardens, it's a pleasant place to spend an evening. Phone: 987-872-1641 Service is warm and friendly, in keeping with the ambience. Daily 8 am- http://www.missioncoz.com 10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Calle 55 (between Avenida Benito Juarez and Calle 1 S.), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-1641. http://www.missioncoz.com.
Del Museo Avenida Rafael E. Melgar, entre 4 y 6 This open-air restaurant is great for enjoying sea breezes and people- Norte, Centro watching. It's on the top floor of the local museum. The food is good— not great—but the view makes it all worthwhile. You can see all the way Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 across the Yucatan Channel to Playa del Carmen. Daily for breakfast Phone: 987-872-0838 and lunch. $-$$. No credit cards. Avenida Rafael E. Melgar, entre 4 y 6 https://www.facebook.com/restaurantedelmuseocozumel Norte, Centro, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0838. https://www.facebook.com/restaurantedelmuseocozumel.
Kinta Avenida 5 Mexican cuisine prepared with flair by Kris Wallenta, the ex-chef of Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Guido's. The menu at this place is pampering taste buds and creating a buzz among foodies. The bistro turns out a small but select offering of Phone: 987-869-0544 chicken, beef and such seafood dishes as grilled scallops and shrimp http://kintarestaurante.com bathed in a tomato-corn salsa with cilantro pesto and rice. For dessert, there's the elusive jericalla, a hard-to-find Veracruz custard infused with real vanilla-bean flavor and spices and covered with a caramel-sugar crust. Daily 5-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida 5 (between calles 2 and 4), Cozumel. Phone 987-869-0544. http://kintarestaurante.com.
La Choza Calle Rosado Salas 198 at Avenida 10 This cheerful and casual Mexican restaurant draped with papel picado Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico (typical paper cutouts) has a long history of pleasing locals as well as tourists with its wide selection of regional dishes such as tacos, fajitas, Phone: 987-872-0958 stuffed peppers and chicken in mole sauce. Daily 7 am-11 pm. $$. Most https://lachozaczm.com.mx major credit cards. Calle Rosado Salas 198 at Avenida 10, Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0958. https://lachozaczm.com.mx.
La Mission Restaurant Adolfo Rosado Salas This place offers traditional Mexican dishes as well as seafood in a Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico tropical garden setting. Its slogan is, "If you don't like it, you don't pay." Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm, Sunday 2-10 pm. $$. Most major Phone: 987-879-0032 credit cards. Adolfo Rosado Salas (between Calle 5 and the waterfront), http://www.lamissioncozumel.com Cozumel. Phone 987-879-0032. http://www.lamissioncozumel.com.
Palmeras Avenida Rafael East Melgar The oldest restaurant in Cozumel is located a few steps from the main pier, overlooking the ocean and adjacent to the main plaza of Cozumel. Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Decorated with the palm trees of its name, it's lost a lot of its local vibe Phone: 987-872-0532 but is a favorite with cruise-ship passengers who pack it when the ships http://www.restaurantepalmeras.com come in. It's a good place for a relaxed lunch, with fajitas or a burger, a cup of coffee or a cold beer. Daily 7 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida Rafael East Melgar (at Avenida Juarez), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0532. http://www.restaurantepalmeras.com.
Pancho's Backyard Ave. Rafael Melgar 27 Located in a courtyard in the prettiest store in town, Los Cinco Soles, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 this restaurant is the most romantic dining spot on the island. Its quiet patio setting and the sounds of trickling water in the fountains only add Phone: 987-872-2141 to the atmosphere. Service is excellent, and the food is always good http://www.panchosbackyard.com (though seldom great). Long lines form at lunch when the cruise ships are in port. Monday-Saturday 10 am-11 pm, Sunday 4-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Rafael Melgar 27 (at Calle 6 Norte), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-2141. http://www.panchosbackyard.com.
Parrilla Mission Calle 1 Sur This place specializes in tacos, but it also offers Yucatecan chicken, pork and seafood dishes. Daily 4-11 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Calle 1 Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77666 Sur (between calles 50 and 55), Cozumel. Phone 987-869-2463. Phone: 987-869-2463 http://www.parrillamission.com. http://www.parrillamission.com
American
Margaritaville Cafe Ave. Rafael E. Melgar 799 Part restaurant, part beach bar, this outlet of Jimmy Buffett's famous Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 cafe is right on the water, making it a picturesque spot for fried fish, grilled tacos and burgers. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner till 2 am. Phone: 987-872-0256 $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Rafael E. Melgar 799 (on the http://www.margaritaville.com.mx waterfront), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0256. http://www.margaritaville.com.mx.
Guido's Avenida Rafael E. Melgar 23 This cozy restaurant is the best place on Cozumel for wood-oven pizza Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 and pasta. Try the caprese salad and fettuccine alfredo with shrimp and mushrooms. The tree-shaded patio is especially pleasant. Monday- Phone: 987-872-0946 Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday 3-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit http://www.guidoscozumel.com cards. Avenida Rafael E. Melgar 23 (between calles 6 and 8), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0946. http://www.guidoscozumel.com.
Coffeehouses
El Coffee Cozumel Calle 3 Sur This warm and modern coffee shop serves up cups of joe made Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 exclusively from Mexican coffee beans and offers an assortment of teas, fresh juices and smoothies. Chilaquiles, huevos rancheros and other Phone: 987-869-0456 Mexican breakfast dishes are offered every morning, and deli https://www.facebook.com/coffee.cozumel sandwiches are available for lunch and dinner. Daily 7 am-11 pm. Calle 3 Sur (between the waterfront and Avenida 5), Cozumel. Phone 987- 869-0456. https://www.facebook.com/coffee.cozumel.
Panaderia Zermatt Avenida 5 It's tough to beat this family-run Mexican bakery for value and delicious Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 pastries and muffins. It also serves juices and coffee. The small patio is a great spot for an impromptu breakfast before heading off to explore Phone: 987-872-1384 the island. Monday-Saturday 7 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 7 am-3 pm. $. No https://www.facebook.com/Zermatt- credit cards. Avenida 5 (corner of Calle 4 Norte), Cozumel. Phone 987- Bakery-Panader%C3%ADa-y- 872-1384. https://www.facebook.com/Zermatt-Bakery- Pasteler%C3%ADa-Fina-Cozumel- Panader%C3%ADa-y-Pasteler%C3%ADa-Fina-Cozumel- 144324512954797. 144324512954797
El Sazon del Camaron Avenida 65 It's all about shrimp (camaron) tacos at this modest eatery, and locals Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77667 pack in for breakfast and lunch. Watch the Jimenez family work behind the counter turning out the breaded crustacean from scratch, served Phone: 987-103-2829 with a drop of black beans, pickled red onions and sour cream. Monday- https://www.facebook.com/el- Saturday 8 am-3 pm. $. No credit cards. Avenida 65 (at Calle 2, about saz%c3%b3n-del-camar%c3%b3n- 10 blocks from the malecon), Cozumel. Phone 987-103-2829. 659162327440230 https://www.facebook.com/el-saz%c3%b3n-del-camar%c3%b3n- 659162327440230.
Pepe's Grill Waterfront The name may not sound elegant, but this place on the waterfront will Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico surprise you: Waiters in tuxedos serve steaks, seafood and Mexican dishes. Prime rib is the house specialty, as are the flambeed dishes. Phone: 987-872-0213 The drinks are generous, the music is lively and the food is excellent. Sit http://www.pepesgrillcozumel.com on the upstairs balcony for a magnificent view of the Caribbean. Try a flaming Cafe Maya with dessert. Daily for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Waterfront (at Calle Salas), Cozumel. Phone 987-872-0213. http://www.pepesgrillcozumel.com.
SECURITY
Personal Safety
Cozumel is among the safer islands in the Caribbean, but you should still use commonsense precautions. Don't leave your belongings unattended at the beach or visible in a parked rental car, and don't walk along deserted beaches in the evening. This is especially true on the less-populated east side of the island. (There are sometimes military patrols in the area watching for drug smugglers.) There are police patrols along the malecon and at the beaches.
Tourists are not typically the target of crime, and driving around the city is generally safe. However, it is a good idea to take a taxi to your hotel at night. If you rent a car, it's best not to leave it parked on the street overnight.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
It's a good idea to avoid food from street vendors or raw food and to stick with the clean-looking restaurants that draw a lot of customers. Ask your doctor about hepatitis vaccinations before your trip.
If you get sick, medicines are available from several pharmacies, especially the big one in the new megastore near the Punta Langosta Mall along the malecon. Some painkillers and other medicines, such as prescription sleeping pills, tranquilizers and antibiotics, will require a prescription from a local doctor, written in Spanish. Some pharmacies get around this by referring tourists to an island doctor who will write the prescription for a fee. In an emergency, go straight to the hospital.
Medica San Miguel—a modern, privately run hospital—offers diagnostic and emergency services, as well as a decompression chamber. As the hospital's primary business is medical tourism, surgical and cosmetic services are also offered, and medical staff is bilingual. Land and air ambulance service is available. Calle 6 N. No. 132 (between avenidas 5 and 10). Emergency phone 987-872-6194. Hospital phone 987-872-0103. http://www.medicasanmiguel.com.mx.
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Sidewalks with ramps can be found downtown in the main shopping areas along the malecon and main plaza. Entrances to some of the bigger shops and some restaurants also have ramps. Beyond this, it's rough going.
Newer hotels have special rooms for people with disabilities, but currently there is no public transportation equipped for wheelchairs. Chankanaab Park offers wheelchairs that operate on the sand.
Do greet everyone with a buenos dias (good day), buenas tardes (good afternoon) or buenas noches (good evening). Mexicans value this practice and will always extend a greeting, even to strangers, before getting down to business.
Do know that prices may be quoted in pesos and/or U.S. dollars. (Pesos are marked M$, MX$ or MXP$.) Although U.S. dollars are almost always accepted on Cozumel, you can't always be certain. In general, you'll get the best rate if you pay in pesos. If traveling off the island to visit inland ruins, take pesos. U.S. dollars are less prevalent inland.
Don't walk out of a bar or cantina with a bottle of beer. Most beer bottles have deposits paid for by the establishment, so the staff keeps a close eye on them. If you want to take the beverage with you, ask for a plastic cup. (Be aware that walking along a street with a container of beer or mixed drink is only tolerated in the tourist zone along the waterfront. Elsewhere in the town, you may get fined.)
Do get away from the tourist areas and explore San Miguel's funky back streets with their colorful houses and typical Mexican street life.
Don't enter churches wearing shorts or beach clothing; this is especially true for women.
FACTS
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: The Mexican government charges a tourism tax of about US$22 for all visitors except cruise-ship passengers and a departure tax of US$40, though both are usually included in the price of your airline ticket. A yellow-fever certificate is required if you're arriving from an infected area (contact health authorities for the latest information). All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America, and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Population: 90,000.
Languages: Spanish is the main language, but English is widely spoken. A few people speak Maya.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the first Sunday in April until the last Sunday in October.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Telephone Codes: 52, country code for Mexico; 987,area code for Cozumel;
Currency Exchange
U.S. dollars are widely accepted on Cozumel. In fact, most ATMs give both U.S. dollars and Mexican pesos, but the fees per transaction from both the local bank and your own bank can be hefty. ATMs are readily available, and most are located within a block of Plaza del Sol in San Miguel and in all banks.
However, it is also possible to pay for purchases in Mexican pesos, and if you visit less-traveled areas on the mainland, you will find pesos to be more commonly used than U.S. dollars. San Miguel has a number of privately run exchange booths, or casas de cambio, which will change U.S. and Canadian dollars or traveler's checks to pesos at rates only slightly lower than the banks' rates. Casas de cambio keep longer hours than banks and are often more convenient to use. Banks are open from 9 am to 4 or 5 pm Monday-Friday. Some are also open until noon on Saturday.
The government of Mexico charges a value-added sales tax of 16% on virtually all transactions in the state of Quintana Roo. In most cases, it's included in the price quoted. Visitors cannot obtain refunds on any taxes. A tip of 10%-15% is expected at most restaurants. Housekeepers at hotels normally receive US$1-$2 a day, and sky caps at airports and bellhops at hotels receive US$2 a bag. Taxi drivers usually don't expect a tip, but you may tip if they provide extra service.
Weather
Expect daytime high temperatures in the 80s F/20s C almost year-round on the Yucatan Peninsula. The humidity will be higher in the summer months, but breezes off the sea will help to keep you cool. Hurricane season is June-November, which is when rain is most likely. Casual summer clothing is appropriate year-round, but swimsuits are worn only on the beaches or at hotel swimming pools. Men are rarely, if ever, required to wear jackets. Shorts and sandals are acceptable for fast-food places, but they are not considered appropriate for nicer restaurants. Street wear is resort casual, and residents generally choose comfort over chic.
Culturally speaking, neat, dressy-casual resort wear is appropriate for business meetings. Women can wear a lightweight suit or dress, whereas men can get away with the traditional guayabera shirt and pants.
No matter what you wear, always use plenty of sunscreen and a hat with the extra precaution of long pants and sleeves to protect against mosquitoes if journeying into a jungle area or the Maya ruins. During the winter months, a light jacket for men and a sweater or shawl for ladies is recommended because of cooler evenings.
Telephone
The standard public Telmex phones are being phased out—even if you find a working phone, it will be hard to find a shop selling the old phone cards. The phone company is slowly installing new public phones in hotels, which will accept 50-peso, 100-peso and 200-peso (approximately US$4-$16) phone cards, but the process is slow and the mainland is being serviced first. The best option for long-distance calls is at small shops around the main plaza advertising international calls, which charge about US$0.25 a minute and more if it's a call to a cell phone. International calls can be made and faxes sent from the Calling Station on Avenida Rafael Melgar at Calle 3 Sur. Long-distance direct service and fax services are available at some hotels, but expect to pay a lot to use them.
Cell phone coverage varies in quality throughout the island from excellent to nonexistent. Although using a cell phone with a roaming agreement is the most convenient way to call, bear in mind that the charges are exorbitant unless you make arrangements with your carrier prior to your departure. For extended stays, consider buying a rechargeable local phone from Telcel or Movistar, or a SIM card.
Internet access is becoming more widely available at both large and small hotels, which sometimes charge for the service. Wi-Fi is also available at City Hall, the ferry and the airport. Several dozen shops in downtown San Miguel offer internet access, and the government is slowly installing Wi-Fi all along the waterfront to include public parks. Post Office Calle 7 Sur There's a post office on Cozumel, but don't expect speedy service. Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-noon. Calle 7 Sur (at Avenida Rafael Melgar), Cozumel.
Cozumel has no English-language newspaper. English-language tourist brochures can be picked up at the information office on the main pier, the kiosk around the main plaza, or directly from the tourist office in the Plaza del Sol. The Cozumel Insider is an English-language online publication, available at http://www.cozumelinsider.com/News.
Transportation
Unless you plan to do a lot of exploring around the island, you won't need to rent a car for your entire stay. Do so only when you're ready to experience the isolated east side.
Otherwise, if you're lodging anywhere in the town of San Miguel, walking is the way to go. It's a great place to stroll. Streets are laid out in an easy-to-navigate grid design, and shops, restaurants, dive shops and bars are located along the malecon and two or three blocks farther inland. Traffic is pretty congested, and parking spaces are hard to find, so it's faster to hoof it.
Even cruise-ship passengers will find the piers a comfortable walk from downtown. Visitors arriving by ferry from Playa del Carmen dock in the midst of the busy malecon, a half-block from the main plaza.
Air
Cozumel Intl (CZM) Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico
Cozumel International Airport or shortly known as CZM is located on the island of Cozumel in Quintana Roo, Mexico. The airport operations are managed by the company, ASUR. The airport's terminal has two floors. Several well-known airlines such as United Airlines, Delta, American Airlines, Air Canada, US Airways, Frontier Airlines, and Sun Country operate international flights from CZM whereas domestic flights are handled by the airlines, Mayair and Interjet. The airport has two runways 11-29 (2,700 x 45 m) and
05-23 (2,500 x 45 m). The runways are capable of handling 22 operations per hour. The terminal area covers an area of 9,514 square meter
Security The airport consists of 37 check-in counters.
Connecting Transportation Shuttle services are available from the ground level of the airport's terminal and this service is provided by the company named Terrestrial Transport. Apart from this, car rental services are also available at the airport for passengers.
Rental cars are available at the ferry terminal downtown, at major hotels and at the airport. Drivers must have a valid license and be at least 21 years old. Daily rates range US$60-$75 with insurance, depending on the type of car. If your credit card provides collision and theft insurance, make sure that the coverage is valid in Mexico. If your coverage was valid in Mexico in the past, confirm that the policy hasn't been changed recently.
Driving is on the right, and be aware that streets and roads are narrow and sometimes rough. Insurance generally does not cover you if you drive the vehicle on a dirt road and get stuck.
The Cozumel-Playa del Carmen Ferry is a convenient and inexpensive way to get to the Mexican mainland. There is also a car ferry that operates between Cozumel and Calica, near Playa del Carmen. You can take a rental car over and drive to Tulum, Chichen Itza, Coba and other places on the mainland. Cozumel-Playa del Carmen Ferry Ultramar Gran Puerto Cancun, Avenue Three passenger-only ferry services are available between Cozumel Lopez Portillo, Puerto Juarez and Playa del Carmen on the mainland. Note that the water can be rough: Having something to combat seasickness is a good idea if you Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77500 have a sensitive stomach. The ferries dock at the municipal pier on the Phone: 987-803-5581 waterfront in San Miguel, and the passage takes about 35 minutes. http://www.granpuerto.com.mx Boats generally operate 5 am-10 pm, leaving once an hour in the peak morning travel times, less frequently in off-peak periods. Check the schedule at the pier before making your plans—times change frequently. Fare is US$13 one way, US$26 round-trip. Tickets can be purchased at the ferry dock. Ultramar Gran Puerto Cancun, Avenue Lopez Portillo, Puerto Juarez, Cozumel. Phone 987-803-5581. http://www.granpuerto.com.mx.
Taxis are always at hand in San Miguel, at the piers, at the major hotels, at the airport and cruising the downtown streets. For short trips, they have no meters and operate on a set-fare system, so negotiating is not necessary. It's US$1.50-$2 per km/0.6 mi. The pier at the ferry dock has fares posted on a big board at the head of the line of cabs waiting to be hired; a dispatcher will quickly and efficiently lead you to the right one.
Although you can pay in either pesos or U.S. dollars, it's always a good idea to ask about the fare before getting into the cab. Say "Cuanto cuesta un viaje a" (followed by your destination). The driver should present a fare card and show you the rate. (For example, a round-trip from downtown to Punta Sur costs approximately US$60 for the cab with four people; the minimum rate for a drop-off is US$5.) If you want to go farther afield or charter the taxi for several hours, you can bargain with the driver. Be aware that taxi drivers may not accept credit cards, so have cash on hand.
Taxi tours of the island (for up to four people) cost about US$35 per person for two-and-a-half hours; hourly rates begin at US$50 for a minimum of two hours in a cab for two people. Vans that hold six to eight people charge more but may be more economical in the long run.
Scooters and mopeds can be rented from vendors at the ferry terminal, along the malecon and on the side streets leading east. Expect to pay about US$25-$35 a day.
This mode of travel can be particularly dangerous because of road conditions and careless drivers. Mexican law requires the use of a helmet. Be careful and use plenty of sunscreen to protect exposed skin.
For More Information
The U.S. Consulate in Cozumel is closed until further notice, so the closest is in Playa del Carmen on the mainland. Monday, Wednesday and Friday 10 am-1 pm by appointment only. Calle Sur between Avenidas 15 and 20, Playa del Carmen. Phone 984-873-0303. https://mx.usembassy.gov/embassy- consulates/merida/consular-agencies. Tourist Offices
Cozumel Tourist Office Calle 2 Norte Monday-Friday 8 am-3 pm. Calle 2 Norte (office 299-B in the Plaza del Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico 77600 Sol Building, on the east side of the main plaza), Cozumel. Phone 987- 869-0212. https://www.caribemexicano.travel/isla-cozumel. Phone: 987-869-0212 https://www.caribemexicano.travel/isla- cozumel
EVENTS
Calendar
Cozumel's yearly celebrations begin with the Carnival season. Preliminary events begin as early as January and reach their peak during the week preceding Ash Wednesday (in February or March), with exciting parades down the malecon on Saturday, Sunday and Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras).
During the remainder of the year, the island's most distinctive celebrations are named after Catholic saints, including Fiesta de Santa Cruz in May, the festivals of San Pedro and San Pablo in June, the Fiesta de San Miguel in September and of the Virgin of Guadalupe in December. The Feria de Cedral in May is also popular with locals and visitors alike.
As a nod to reeling in the "big one," April-July is sportfishing season, with tournaments such as the Rodeo of Mexican Boats, which claims to be the biggest fishing contest in the Mexican Caribbean.
For more information about upcoming events in Cozumel, visit http://www.cozumel.travel.
To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside Mexico, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Mexico's country code, 52.
Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.
January
3, 10, 17, 24, 31 Jan—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
7, 14, 21, 28 Feb—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
21 Mar—Birthday of Benito Juarez Public holiday honoring the leader of the Mexican Revolution.
7, 14, 21, 28 Mar—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
4, 11, 18, 25 Apr—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
1 May—Labor Day Public holiday.
2, 9, 16, 23, 30 May—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
6, 13, 20, 27 Jun—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
4, 11, 18, 25 Jul—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
15 Aug—Feast of the Assumption Religious holiday. Services are held nationwide.
1, 8, 15, 22, 29 Aug—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
5, 12, 19, 26 Sep—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
3, 10, 17, 24, 31 Oct—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.
7, 14, 21, 28 Nov—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel. 5, 12, 19, 26 Dec—Sunday Fiesta A free, open-air event featuring live music by local bands. Plaza Central, Parque de Benito Juarez, San Miguel.