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Home , History of scuba diving, Punta Sur, Sayil, Sumidero Canyon, Xlapak, Xpujil

Index

GENERAL INDEX General Index Dive Shop, 182 Area codes, 356 Akumal Vacations, 182 Art and architecture, 31–35 A Allende, Ignacio, 26 books about, 39 Academic trips and language All-inclusive resorts Ash Wednesday, 51 classes, 59–60 , 135 Assumption of the Virgin , 260 , 173 Mary, 52 Accommodations, 354–356. Alltournative, 58, 74, 175, 198 ATC Travel and Tours, 60, 338

Akumal, 183–184 Alma Libre (), Atlantis , Cozumel, , 283–285 158–159 140 Cancún, 104–113 Alma Mexicana (Mérida), 244 ATMs (automated teller Celestún, 256 Almost Heaven Adventures machines), 361–362, 365 , 211 (Puerto Morelos), 158 Auto insurance, 348, 351 Chiapa de Corzo, 344 Amate Books (Mérida), 243 Ay Caray (Mérida), 246 Chichén Itzá, 292–293 Amatenango del Valle, 331–332 Ayuntamiento (Mérida), 234 Cobá, 197–198 Amber, 334 Azul Picante (Mérida), 246 condo, home, and villa rentals, Anexo Este (Chichén Itzá), 292 355–356 Angeles Verdes/Green Angels, B Cancún, 104 350 Bahía de Mujeres, 123 Cozumel, 148 Animal-rights issues, 59 Balamkú, 220 , 130 Año Nuevo, 51 Ball Court (juego de pelota), 23 Cozumel, 148–151 Aquanuts (Puerto Morelos), 158 Chichén Itzá, 289 hotel rating system, 354 Aqua Safari (Cozumel), 138 Cobá, 197 Isla Mujeres, 129–132 Aquaworld (Cancún), 89–91 , 316 , 254–255 Arcadio Poveda Ricalde , 266 Laguna , 208 Planetarium (Mérida), 234 Baluarte San Juan (Campeche), , 205 Archaeological sites and ruins, 3 277 Mayapán, 261 Acanceh, 260 Banderas , 122 Mérida, 247–252 Balamkú, 220 Banks, 361 Palenque, 318–320 Becán, 216–217 Bazaar de Artesanías (Mérida), , 173–175 , 320, 338 243 Puerto Morelos and vicinity, , 217–220, 285 Bazaar García Rejón (Mérida), 161–165 Chicanná, 217 243 San Cristóbal, 336–337 Chichén Itzá, 287–292 Bazar Artesanal (Campeche), , 262 Chincultic, 338 283 , 192–195 Cobá, 195–197 Bazar Municipal (Valladolid), Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 342–343 near Cozumel, 151 294–295, 298 Uxmal/Santa Elena, 267–268 Dzibanché (Tzibanché), 214 Beach Club Garrafón de Castilla Valladolid, 299–300 Dzibilchaltún (near Mérida), (Isla Mujeres), 121 Villahermosa, 311–312 237–238 Beaches. See also specifi c , 206–207 Edzná, 279–281 beaches Adventure trips, 60 Isla Mujeres, 125 best, 9–11 Agua Azul, 321 Izamal, 254 Cancún, 9–10, 88 Aguacatenango, 324, 332 , 268–269 Cozumel, 10, 142 Ah Cacao (Playa del Carmen), Kinichná, 215 Isla Mujeres, 10 172 Labná, 270–271 Playa del Carmen, 10, 168 Air travel, 346, 349–350 Loltún, 271–272 Tulum, 189 Campeche, 274 Mayapán, 260–261 Becán, 216–217 Cancún, 82–83 , 202 Beer, 8, 49 Cozumel, 134, 136 Palenque, 313–317 Biking, Isla Mujeres, 120 Mérida, 225COPYRIGHTEDPuuc Maya Route, 268–272 MATERIALBiosphere reserves. See Nature Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 339 Río Bec region, 212 and biosphere reserves Villahermosa, 308 , 143 Biouniverzoo (Chetumal), 209 websites, 369 , 269–270 Bird-watching, 13, 57 Akab Dzib (Temple of Obscure Toniná, 321–322 Annual Yucatán Bird Festival Writing; Chichén Itzá), 292 Tulum, 11, 189–190 (Mérida), 53 Aktun Chen (near Akumal), Uxmal, 263–266 Celestún National Wildlife 184–185 Xcambó, 258 Refuge, 255–256 Akumal, 182–184 , 270 endemic birds of the Akumal Bay, 183 Xpujil, 216 Yucatán, 54 Akumal Dive Adventures, 182 Yaxchilán, 320 Huitepec , 332

381

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 381381 66/19/12/19/12 66:04:04 PMPM Blue Parrot (Playa del Carmen), newspapers and magazines, 87 Cave of Balankanché (near 172 nightlife, 15, 82 Chichén Itzá), 293 Blue Ray (Cancún), 91 post offi ce, 87 Caves of the Sleeping Sharks, Boats and ferries restaurants, 6, 7, 82, 93–100 118, 122 Cancún, 91–92 shopping, 14, 81, 100–101 Celestún National Wildlife Cozumel, 134, 140 visitor information, 84 Refuge, 64, 255–256 Isla Mujeres, 118 weather, 87 Cellphones, 360 Playa del Carmen, 166 websites, 84 Azul, 178 Boca de Puma (near Puerto Cancún Golf Club at Cenote (Tulum), Morelos), 159 Pok-Ta-Pok, 93 179 Bonampak, 13–14, 320, 338 Cancún Hideaways, 104 Cenote Dzitnup (Cenote Books, recommended, 38–39 Cancún Jazz Festival, 52 Xkekén; near Valladolid),

GENERAL INDEX Botanical Garden (Campeche), Cancún Mermaid, 90–91 297–298 277 Cancún Municipal Tourism Cenote Las Mojarras, 159 Boutique lodgings, 355 Offi ce, 84 and cenote diving, Bribes and scams, 365 Candlemas (Día de la 13, 54–55, 140 Buho’s (Isla Mujeres), 129 Candelaria), 51 Cenote Dzitnup (Cenote Bullfi ghting, 59 of El Sumidero, Xkekén; near Valladolid), Business hours, 356 343–344 297–298 Bus travel, 349, 351–352 Capt. Rick’s Sportfi shing Center Cenote Zací (Valladolid), 296 (Puerto Aventuras), 180 Hidden Worlds Cenotes (near C Captain Hook Lobster Dinner Xel-Ha), 185 Café Bar Revolución (San Cruise (Cancún), 94 Ik-Kil, 293 Cristóbal), 335 (Playa del Carmen), 171 Progreso area, 258 Calakmul, 11, 217–220, 285 Car breakdowns, 350 between Puerto Morelos and Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, Cárdenas, Lázaro, 28 Central Vallarta, 159–160 64, 219–220 Car documents, 347–348 Riviera Maya, 178–179 Calendar, Maya, 36 Carey Dive Center (Isla Tankah Bay, 186 Calendar of events, 51–54 Mujeres), 122 Cenote Xtoloc (Chichén Itzá), Calle 60 (Mérida), 235–236 Caribbean Village (Isla Mujeres), 291 Calzada de los Frailes 125 Cenote Zací (Valladolid), 296 (Valladolid), 296 Carlos ‘n’ Charlie’s (Cozumel), Central Group (Dzibilchaltún), Campeche, 9, 272–285 148 238 accommodations, 283–285 Carnaval, 51 Centro Cultural y Artesanal arriving and departing, 274–275 Cozumel, 137 (Izamal), 253–254 beaches near, 279 Carnavalito City Tour Bus Centro de Investigaciones exploring, 276–279 (Mérida), 230 Pesqueras (Isla Mujeres), getting around, 276 Car rentals, 351 124 layout, 275–276 Car travel, 347–351 Centro Ecológico Akumal, 183 restaurants, 281–283 Riviera Maya, 156 Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an shopping, 283 Casa de Artesanías Tukulná (near Tulum), 200 side trips from, 285–293 (Campeche), 283 Chamula, 330–331 tours, 281 Casa del Alguacil (Mérida), 234 Chankanaab National Park, visitor information, 275 Casa de las Artesanías (Mérida), 64, 141 Cancún, 80–113 244 Chen Río (Cozumel), 142 accommodations, 104–113 Casa de los Metates (Chichén Chetumal, 209–211 rates, 109 Itzá), 290 side trips to Maya ruins from, arriving in, 82–84 Casa de los Venados 212–220 ATMs and banks, 86 (Valladolid), 295–296 Chewing gum, 30 average , 51 Casa de Montejo (Mérida), 234 Chiapa de Corzo, 343 beaches, 9–10, 88 Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal), , 3, 55–56, 63 best experiences in, 81–82 327–328 Chiapas Tourism Secretariat, 59 brief history of, 81 Casa 6 Centro Cultural Chicanná, 217 consulates, 86–87 (Campeche), 277 Chichanchob (Little Holes; crime, 87 Casa Tequila (Playa del Carmen), Chichén Itzá), 291 drugstores, 87 172 Chichén Itzá, 12, 31, ecological problems, 57 Castillo 151, 285–293 emergencies, 87 Chichén Itzá, 31, 287–288 accommodations and entertainment and nightlife, Cobá, 197 restaurants, 292–293 101–103 Tulum, 189 area layout, 287 exploring, 88–92 Catedral de San Cristóbal, 328 arriving and departing, 286–287 fi nding an address, 85 Catedral de San Ildefonso exploring the ruins, 287–292 getting around, 85–86 (Mérida), 233 Chichén Viejo (Old Chichén), hospital, 87 Catedral de San Marcos (Tuxtla 292 Internet access, 87 Gutiérrez), 340 Chicxulub, 257–258 layout of, 85

382

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 382382 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM Children, families with, 359 Internet access, 137 Tulum, 190 best experiences for, 9 layout, 136 Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 340, 342 Cancún, 81 nightlife, 148 Valladolid, 298

suggested itinerary, 73–75 post offi ce, 137 Villahermosa, 310–311 GENERAL INDEX traveling with minors, 368 recompression chamber, 137 Disabled travelers, 357 Chiles, 45, 46 restaurants, 144–147 Dive In Puerto Morelos, 158 Chinchorro Reef Underwater , 56 Dive Paradise (Cozumel), 138 National Park, 204 shopping, 147 Diving. See Cenotes and cenote Chincultic, 338 side trips from, 151 diving; Scuba diving Chocolate, 45 U.S. consulate, 137 Doctors, 357 Mérida, 244 visitor information, 137 Dolphins, swimming with, 59 Christmas, 54 websites, 118 Cozumel, 141

Christmas Posadas, 54 Cozumel Country Club, Isla Mujeres, 92–93, 123–124 Cielo y Tierra Tours (San 143–144 Puerto Aventuras, 180 Cristóbal), 330 Cozumel Island Museum, 143 Drinking laws, 357 Cigars, 30 Cozumel Vacation Villas and Dry season, 50 Cinco de Mayo, 52 Condos, 148 Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón Cinépolis (Cozumel), 148 Crime, 364 (Mérida), 234 Ciudad Cancún. See Cancún CrocoCun (near Puerto Dzibanché (Tzibanché), 213–214 Classic Period (A.D. 300-900), 24 Morelos), 154, 156 Dzibilchaltún (near Mérida), Cliff of the Dawn, 125 Cruise lines, 349 64, 237–238 Cobá, 151, 195–198, 301 Cuevas de los Tiburones (Caves Dzilam de Bravo, 258 CoCo Bongo of the Sleeping Sharks), Dzul Ha cenote (near Mérida), Cancún, 102–103 118, 122 238 Playa del Carmen, 172 Cuisine, 7, 43–49. See also Coffee, 49 Restaurants E Chiapas, 334 cooking schools, 8, 159 Eating and drinking, 7, 43–49. Columbus Day, 53 Culinary Adventures, 60 See also Restaurants Columbus Lobster Dinner Cruise Currency and currency cooking schools, 8, 159 (Cancún), 93–94 exchange, 360–361 Ecochiapas, 59 Comitán, 338 Customs regulations, 356–357 Ecomuseo del Cacao (between Community Tours Sian Ka’an Labná and Xlapak), 271 (Tulum), 200–201 D Ecotours and adventure trips, Condo, home, and villa rentals, Dady’O (Cancún), 103 57–59 355–356 Day of the Dead (Día de los Mérida area, 238–239 Cancún, 104 Muertos), 53 Tulum, 188 Cozumel, 148 De Beatriz Boutique (Playa del Ecoturismo Yucatán (Mérida), Isla Mujeres, 130 Carmen), 171 238 Conjunto Las Pinturas (Cobá), Día de la Candelaria Edifi cio de las Monjas (Edifi ce of 197 (Candlemas), 51 the Nuns; Chichén Itzá), Constitution Day, 51 Día de la Constitución, 51 291 Consulates, 358 Día de la Marina, 52 Edzná, 12, 32, 279–281 Cooking classes, 8, 159 Día de la Raza, 53 Ek Balam, 12, 300–301 Puerto Morelos, 159 Día de los Muertos (Day of the El Ayuntamiento (Valladolid), Cooperativa Isla Mujeres, Dead), 53 295 122, 125 Día de los Reyes (Three Kings’ El Caracol (Chichén Itzá), 291 Coral Negro (Cancún), 100 Day), 51 El Castillo Coral reefs, 141 Día de San Pedro (St. Peter and Chichén Itzá, 31, 287–288 Corpus Christi, 52 St. Paul’s Day), 52 Cobá, 197 Cortez, Hernán, 25 Díaz, Porfi rio, 27, 34 Tulum, 189 , 11, 203 Dietary red fl ags, 352–353 El Cielo Lounge (Mérida), 246 Cozumel, 115, 132–151 Dining El Cocodrilo (San Cristóbal), 335 accommodations, 148–151 Akumal, 183 Electricity, 358 all-inclusive vacations in, 135 best, 6–8 Elements of the Island (Isla arriving in, 136 Campeche, 281–283 Mujeres), 123 ATMs, banks and currency Cancún, 82, 93–100 Elevation sickness, 353 exchange, 137 Chetumal, 211 El Garrafón Natural Reef Park, beaches, 10, 142 Cozumel, 144–147 90–92, 121 best travel experiences, dining service tips, 50 , 123 115–116 Isla Mujeres, 126–128 El Mercado Carnaval, 137 Izamal, 254 Chichén Itzá, 290 climate, 137 Laguna Bacalar, 208 San Cristóbal, 328 exploring, 138–144 Mérida, 239–243 getting around, 136–137 Palenque, 317 Labná, 271 getting there, 134–135 Playa del Carmen, 169–171 Sayil, 270 hospital, 137 San Cristóbal, 332–334

383

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 383383 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM El Nuevo Olimpo (Mérida), 246 French Quarter (Cozumel), 148 Hammocks (Mérida), 245 El Nuevo Tucho (Mérida), 246 Frijoles, 44 Hard Rock Cafe (Cozumel), 148 El Palacio Fuerte-Museo San José el Alto Health concerns, 352–354 Labná, 270 (Campeche), 278 Henequén (sisal), 28 Sayil, 269–270 Fuerte-Museo San Miguel Hidalgo, Father Miguel, 26 Language Classes (Campeche), 278–279 Hidden Worlds Cenotes, 185 (San Cristóbal), 327 Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar High-altitude , 353 El Sombrero Popular (Mérida), (Laguna Bacalar), 207–208 High season, 50 246 Fusion (Playa del Carmen), 172 Highway safety, 365 El Telar (San Cristóbal), 335 Historic experiences, best, El Torre (Ek Balam), 300 G 11–12 Embassies and consulates, 358 Garrafón Natural Reef Park, History of Yucatán, and GENERAL INDEX Emergencies, 359 90–92, 121 Chiapas, 22–31. See also Enchiladas, 44 snorkeling, 123 Maya culture and people Entertainment and nightlife Garrafón Natural Reef Resort books on, 38 best, 15–16 (Isla Mujeres), activities, Cancún, 81 Cancún, 101–103 124–125 Classic Period (A.D. 300-900), 24 Cozumel, 148 Gasoline, 350 Cortez, Moctezuma and the Isla Mujeres, 129 Gays and lesbians, 360 Spanish conquest, 25–26 Mérida, 246 International Gay Festival, 52 Díaz, Zapata, Pancho Villa and Playa del Carmen, 172 Gnats, 353 the Mexican Revolution, San Cristóbal, 335–336 Go Cenotes (Playa del Carmen), 27–28 Etiquette and customs, 21–22 179 modern , 28–31 Europa Computer Internet (Isla Golf post-Classic Period (A.D. 900– Mujeres), 121 Cancún, 93 1521), 24–25 Extreme Control (Tulum), 189 Cozumel, 143–144 pre-Classic Period (1500 B.C.– Extreme weather exposure, 352 Governor’s Palace (Uxmal), 266 A.D. 300), 22–23 EZLN (Zapatista Liberation Gran Arrecife Maya (Great Holy Week (Semana Santa), 52 Army), 325 Mesoamerican Reef), Home rentals, 355–356 56, 88, 90, 153 Cancún, 104 F Gran Cenote, 178 Cozumel, 148 Fall Equinox (Chichén Itzá), 53 Gran Meliá Cancún, 93 Isla Mujeres, 130 Families with children, 359 Great Acropolis (Edzná), 280 Horseback riding best experiences for, 9 Great Mesoamerican Reef Punta Venado, 176 Cancún, 81 (Great Mayan Reef), San Cristóbal, 329 suggested itinerary, 73–75 56, 88, 90, 153 Hospitals, 359 traveling with minors, 368 Great Temple (Kabah), 269 Hotel chains, 355 Faro Celerain Ecological Griffi n, Dan, 212, 239 Hoteles Camino Real, 355 Reserve (), Grupo Cobá, 196 Hotel Na Balam (Isla Mujeres), 141–142 Grupo Dady (Cancún), 102 yoga classes, 123 Fayne’s (Isla Mujeres), 129 Guayaberas, 245 Hotel Posada Real de Chiapas Feast of San Isidro, 52 Guayaberas Jack (Mérida), 245 (San Cristóbal), 336 Feast of the Virgin of Hotels, 354–356 Guadalupe, 54 H Akumal, 183–184 Felipe Carrillo Puerto, 202–203 Hacienda hotels, 6 Campeche, 283–285 Festival de las Aves de Yucatán Hacienda Petac, 249 Cancún, 104–113 (Mérida), 53 Haciendas, 249 Celestún, 256 Festival of San Cristóbal de las Hacienda San José Cholul (near Chetumal, 211 Casas, 54 Mérida), 249 Chiapa de Corzo, 344 Festivals and special events, Hacienda Santa Rosa (Maxcanú), Chichén Itzá, 292–293 51–54 249 Cobá, 197–198 Fiesta Americana and Fiesta Inn, Hacienda Sisal (Cancún), 103 condo, home, and villa rentals, 355 Hacienda Sotuta de Peón (near 355–356 Films, 39–41 Mérida), 238 Cancún, 104 Fishing, 12–13, 53 Hacienda Temozón (near Cozumel, 148 Boca Paila Fishing Lodge (near Mérida), 249, 252 Isla Mujeres, 130 Sian Ka’an), 201 Hacienda Uayamón (near Cozumel, 148–151 Cancún, 88 Campeche), 249 hotel rating system, 354 Cozumel, 140–141 Hacienda Xcanatún (near Isla Mujeres, 129–132 Isla Mujeres, 122 Mérida), 249 Izamal, 254–255 Flamingos, 255–256 Hacienda Yaxcopoil, 249, 259 Laguna Bacalar, 208 Flea markets, 9 Diving (Tulum), Mahahual, 205 Food and cuisine, 7 188–189 Mayapán, 261 cooking schools, 8, 159 Hamacas El Aguacate (Mérida), Mérida, 247–252 Food and wine trips, 60 245 Palenque, 318–320 Forum by the Sea (Cancún), 101 Playa del Carmen, 173–175

384

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 384384 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM Puerto Morelos and vicinity, J La Sirena (Playa del Carmen), 161–165 Jardín Botánico Dr. Alfredo 172 San Cristóbal, 336–337 Barrera Marín (near Puerto LA68 Cultural Center (Mérida),

Ticul, 262 Morelos), 156 246 GENERAL INDEX Tulum, 192–195 Jardín del Edén, 178 Las Palapas Chimbo’s (Isla Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 342–343 Jax Bar & Grill (Isla Mujeres), 129 Mujeres), 129 Uxmal/Santa Elena, 267–268 Jet-skiing, Cancún, 91 La Terraza (Isla Mujeres), 129 Valladolid, 299–300 Juárez, Benito, 27 Latino’s (San Cristóbal), 335–336 Villahermosa, 311–312 birthday of, 51 Latitud 16, 59 Xcalak, 206–207 Juego de pelota (Ball Court), 23 Lay of the land, 54–57 House rentals and swaps, Chichén Itzá, 289 Legal aid, 360 355–356 Cobá, 197 Librería Dante (Mérida),

Huitepec Cloud Forest, 332 Palenque, 316 243–244 Hunab Kú market (Puerto Uxmal, 266 Librería-Papelería Burrel Morelos), 159 Jungle Cruise (Cancún), 91 (Mérida), 244 Hurricanes, 29, 50 Jungle Spa (Puerto Morelos), 159 Light (Cancún), 103 Liquid Blue Divers (Cozumel), I K 138 Iberostar Playa Paraiso Golf Kabah, 268–269 Little Mexican Cooking School Club (Cancún), 93 Kanasín, 260 (Puerto Morelos), 159 Iglesia de Jesús (Mérida), 236 Kids, 359 Lobster, 8 Iglesia de San Gervasio best experiences for, 9 Local experiences (Valladolid), 295 Cancún, 81 best, 8–9 Ik-Kil, 293 suggested itinerary, 73–75 in the markets, 15 IMAC, 59 traveling with minors, 368 Loco Gringo, 182 Independence Kinich Kakmó (Izamal), 254 Loltún, 271–272 Mexican, 26–27 Kinichná, 215 Los Cinco Soles (Cozumel), 147 Yucatecan, 27 Kiteboarding (kite-surfi ng), Low season, 50 Independence Day, 52–53 Tulum, 189 Lucerno Verde, 160 Insects, 353–354 Ki’Xocolatl (Mérida), 244 Instituto Casa Chiapas (Tuxtla , 215 M Gutiérrez), 342 Kukulcán Plaza (Cancún), Mahahual, 203–206 Insurance, auto, 348, 351 100–101 Mail, 360 Interactive Aquarium (Cancún), Malecón (Campeche), 279 9, 92–93 L Mama, 262 International Gay Festival, 52 Labná, 270–271 Mambo Café (Mérida), 246 Internet and Wi-Fi, 359 Labor Day, 52 Manatí, 178 Isla Beckons (Isla Mujeres), 130 La Calaca (Playa del Carmen), Manchones reef, 122, 123 Isla Cancún. See Cancún 171–172 Mandala (Cancún), 103 , 64, 90, 125 La Costa Esmeralda, 257 Mansion Carvajal (Campeche), , 13, 302–303 La Galería del Corazón Abierto 277 Isla Home Services (Isla (San Cristóbal), 334 Mariachis, 42 Mujeres), 130 Lágrimas de la Selva (San Maximilian, Archduke, 26–27 Isla Mujeres, 8, 115–132 Cristóbal), 334 Maya culture and people, accommodations, 129–132 Laguna Bacalar, 207–209 19–20. See also History ATMs and banks, 121 Laguna Yalahu, 303 of Yucatán, Tabasco and attractions, 123–126 La Habichuela Sunset (Cancún), Chiapas beaches, 10 103 art and architecture, 31–33, 277 beaches and outdoor activities, La Iglesia ball game, 23 121–123 Chichén Itzá, 292 books about, 213, 326 best travel experiences, Cobá, 196 gods and goddesses, 37 115–116 La Isla Shopping Village Museo de la Arquitectura Maya day trips from Cancún, 91 (Cancún), 101 (Campeche), 277 drugstore, 121 La Madonna (Cancún), 103 Museo de la Cultura Maya entertainment and nightlife, 129 (), 211 (Chetumal), 210–211 getting around, 119–120 La Musa (Underwater Museum Museo del Pueblo Maya getting there, 118–119 of Art; off Isla Mujeres), (Dzibilchaltún), 237 hospital, 121 90, 122 Museo Regional de layout, 120 Language, 359 Antropología (Mérida), restaurants, 126–128 Language classes, 59–60 236–237 shopping, 129 La Pared (San Cristóbal), 334 Pac Chen, 198 visitor information, 120 La Punta, 122 pre-Classic Period (1500 B.C.– websites, 118 La Ruta Maya, 75–78 A.D. 300), 22–23 Itineraries, suggested, 65–78 La Santanera (Playa del religion, myth and folklore, Iturbide, Agustín de, 26 Carmen), 172 35–38 Izamal, 253–255 Las Brisas Hotel Collection, 355 terms and phrases, 21

385

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 385385 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM Mayan Ecotours (Mérida), 238 pharmacies, 230 Museum of Mayan Culture Mayan Heritage Tours (Mérida), police, 230 (Campeche), 278–279 239 restaurants, 239–243 Music, 41–43 Mayapán, 260–261 safety, 230 Muyil, 202 Mayapán Distillery (Valladolid), shopping, 243–246 297 side trips from, 253–263 N Maya sites and ruins, 3 U.S. consulate, 229 Na Balam (Isla Mujeres), 129 Acanceh, 260 visitor information, 227–228 Native people, 22–23. See also Balamkú, 220 Mesoamerican Ecotourism Maya culture and people Becán, 216–217 Alliance, 59 Nature and biosphere reserves Bonampak, 320, 338 Mexican-American War Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, Calakmul, 217–220, 285 (1846-48), 26 219–220 GENERAL INDEX Chicanná, 217 Mexican fi esta nights, Cancún, Isla Contoy, 125 Chichén Itzá, 287–292 103 Ría Lagartos Nature Reserve, Chincultic, 338 Mexican Revolution, 27–28 301–302 Cobá, 195–197 Mexico Art Tours, 60 Río Secreto, 176 near Cozumel, 151 Mexico Boutique Hotels, 355 Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, Dzibanché (Tzibanché), 214 Mexico City, 26 198–201 Dzibilchaltún (near Mérida), Mexico Kan Tours (Tulum), 188 Xel-Ha, 185 237–238 Mexico Sagaz, 60 Navy Day, 52 Edzná, 279–281 Miguel Alvarez del Toro Zoo Newspapers and magazines, Isla Mujeres, 125 (ZOOMAT; Tuxtla 362 Izamal, 254 Gutiérrez), 340 New Year’s Day, 51 Kabah, 268–269 Miniaturas (Mérida), 244 New Year’s Eve, 54 Kinichná, 215 Misol Ha, 320–321 NH Hoteles, 355 Labná, 270–271 Mobile phones, 360 Nightlife Loltún, 271–272 Moctezuma II, 25 best, 15–16 Mayapán, 260–261 Montebello National Park, 338 Cancún, 101–103 Muyil, 202 Moon Lounge (Mérida), 246 Cozumel, 148 Palenque, 313–317 Mosquitoes, 353 Isla Mujeres, 129 Maya Route, 268–272 Mr. Sancho’s (Cozumel), 142 Mérida, 246 Río Bec region, 212 Muna, 259 Playa del Carmen, 172 San Gervasio, 143 Mundaca Travel and Real Estate San Cristóbal, 335–336 Sayil, 269–270 (Isla Mujeres), 130 Nohoch Mul Group (Cobá), 197 Toniná, 321–322 Municipal Market (Isla Mujeres), Nuevo Olimpo (Mérida), 234 Tulum, 11, 189–190 126 Uxmal, 263–266 Muralism, 34–35 O Xcambó, 258 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Ocosingo, 321 Xlapak, 270 Ateneo de Yucatán Olmec, 23, 32, 310 Xpujil, 216 (MACAY; Mérida), 233–234 Om (Playa del Carmen), 172 Yaxchilán, 320 Museo de la Arquitectura Maya Omni Puerto Aventuras, 180 Mendicuti, Erik, 281 (Campeche), 277 Operadora Turística Edzná, 281 Mercado de Artesanías de Museo de la Ciudad Orange Festival (Oxkutzcab), Valladolid, 298 Campeche, 277 272 Mercado Lucas de Gálvez Mérida, 235 Outdoor activities, best, 12–14 (Mérida), 243 Museo de la Cultura Maya Oval Palace (Ek Balam), 300 Mercado Municipal (Valladolid), (Chetumal), 210–211 Oxkutzcab, 272 299 Museo de la Isla de Cozumel, Mercado 28 (Cancún), 100 143 P Mérida, 3, 222–263 Museo del Ambar (San Paamul, 177–179 accommodations, 247–252 Cristóbal), 328–329 Pac Chen, 198 arriving in, 225–227 Museo del Pueblo Maya Palace (Palenque), 316 best experiences, 222, 224 (Dzibilchaltún), 237 Palace Group (Kabah), 269 ecotours and adventure trips, Museo Regional de Palace of Masks (Kabah), 269 238–239 Antropología (Mérida), Palacio de Gobierno (Mérida), entertainment and nightlife, 246 236–237 227–228, 228i, 235 exploring, 230–238 Museo Regional de Palacio de las Bellas Artes (San festivals and events in, 231 Antropología Carlos Pellicer Cristóbal), 329 fi nding addresses in, 228 Cámara (Villahermosa), Palacio de los Stuccoes getting around, 229 309–310 (Acanceh), 260 haciendas near, 249 Museo San Roque (Valladolid), Palacio Municipal (Mérida), 234 hospitals, 229 296 Palancar Reef, 138 Internet access, 229 Museo Sub-Acuatico CEDAM Palenque, 12, 312–322 layout, 228 (Puerto Aventuras), 180 accommodations, 318–320 mail and postage, 229 Museo Templo y Convento arriving and departing, 312–313 neighborhoods in brief, 228 Santo Domingo (San nightlife, 16 Cristóbal), 329 386

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 386386 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM exploring, 313–317 Playa Bonita , 201–202 getting around, 313 near Campeche, 279 Punta Allen Peninsula, 199–201 layout, 313 Cozumel, 142 Punta Morena (Cozumel), 142

restaurants, 317 Playa del Carmen, 151, Punta Sam, 119 GENERAL INDEX road trips from, 320–322 165–175 Punta Sur (Faro Celerain visitor information, 313 accommodations, 173–175 Ecological Reserve), Panadería La Hojaldra (San ATMs, banks and currency 141–142 Cristóbal), 332 exchange, 168 Punta Venado, 176 Panama hats, Mérida, 246 beaches, 10 Puuc Maya Route, 268–272 Pancho’s (Mérida), 246 drugstore, 168 Puuc Route, 263, 271 Paradise Beach (Cozumel), 142 entertainment and nightlife, 172 Pyramid of Five Stories (Edzná), Paradise Cafe (Cozumel), 142 exploring, 168–169 280

Parque de la Madre (Mérida), 236 getting around, 166–167 Pyramid of the Magician Parque Hidalgo (Mérida), getting there and departing, 166 (Uxmal), 264 235–236 layout, 167–168 Pyramid of the Masks Parque Jardín de la Marimba nightlife, 16 (Kohunlich), 215 (Tuxtla Gutiérrez), 340 parking, 168 Pyramid of the Painted Lintel Parque-Museo La Venta post offi ce, 168 (Cobá), 197 (Villahermosa), 306, 310 restaurants, 169–171 Parque Principal (Campeche), seasons, 168 Q 276 shopping, 14, 171–172 Quinta Real Grand Class Hotels Parque Santa Ana (Mérida), 236 side trips from, 175–186 and Resorts, 355 Parque Santa Lucía (Mérida), 236 special events, 168 Paseo de Montejo (Mérida), visitor information, 166 R 228, 236 Playa Lancheros (Isla Mujeres), Rainy season, 50 Passports, 363 116 Rancho Punta Venado, 176 Piedra Escondida (San Playa Norte (Isla Mujeres), Recompression chamber, Cristóbal), 334 91, 116, 121 Cozumel, 137 A Pirate’s Fortress (Isla Playa San Francisco (Cozumel), Regions in brief, 62–65 Mujeres), 126 142 Religion, myth and folklore, Pisté, 287 Plaza Cívica (Tuxtla Gutiérrez), 35–38 Planning your trip, 346–369 340 Resorts and hotels, 354–356 business hours, 356 Plaza de Santo Domingo (San Akumal, 183–184 customs regulations, 356–357 Cristóbal), 335 Campeche, 283–285 disabled travelers, 357 Plaza Grande (Mérida), 228, Cancún, 104–113 doctors, 357 233–235 Celestún, 256 drinking laws, 357 Plaza La Fiesta (Cancún), 100 Chetumal, 211 electricity, 358 Poc-Na (Isla Mujeres), 129 Chiapa de Corzo, 344 embassies and consulates, 358 Police, 364 Chichén Itzá, 292–293 emergencies, 359 Popol Vuh, 23, 37 Cobá, 197–198 families with children, 359 Portal de Granos (Mérida), 243 condo, home, and villa rentals, getting around, 349–352 Post-Classic Period (A.D. 900– 355–356 getting there, 346–349 1521), 24–25 Cancún, 104 health concerns, 352–354 Pre-Classic Period (1500 B.C.– Cozumel, 148 hospitals, 359 A.D. 300), 22–23 Isla Mujeres, 130 Internet and Wi-Fi, 359 Pre-Hispanic art and Cozumel, 148–151 money matters, 360–362 architecture, 31–33 hotel rating system, 354 packing, 363 Pre-Hispanic civilizations, 22–23. Isla Mujeres, 129–132 passports, 363 See also Maya culture and Izamal, 254–255 police, 364 people Laguna Bacalar, 208 safety, 364–365 Privilege Aluxes (Isla Mujeres), Mahahual, 205 senior travel, 365 130 Mayapán, 261 student travel, 366 Progreso, 256–258 Mérida, 247–252 taxes, 366 Pronatura, 332 Palenque, 318–320 telephones, 366–367 Proviajes (Cozumel), 138 Playa del Carmen, 173–175 tipping, 367 Puerta de Mar (Campeche), 275 Puerto Morelos and vicinity, visas, 367 Puerta de Tierra (Campeche), 161–165 visitor information, 368 275, 278 San Cristóbal, 336–337 women travelers, 368 Puerto Aventuras, 180 Ticul, 262 Platform of the Eagles (Chichén Puerto , 179 Tulum, 192–195 Itzá), 289 Puerto Juárez, 118 Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 342–343 Platform of the Knives (Edzná), Puerto Morelos and vicinity, Uxmal/Santa Elena, 267–268 280 90, 154–165 Valladolid, 299–300 Platform of Venus (Chichén accommodations, 161–165 Villahermosa, 311–312 Itzá), 289 exploring, 157–160 Xcalak, 206–207 getting there, 157 Responsible travel, 57–59 restaurants, 160–161 387

114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 387387 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM Restaurants Xlapak, 270 Seasons, 50 Akumal, 183 Xpujil, 216 Sea turtles, 279 best, 6–8 Yaxchilán, 320 Selvática (near Puerto Morelos), Campeche, 281–283 Ruta de Cenotes (between 159 Cancún, 82, 93–100 Puerto Morelos and Central Semana Santa (Holy Week), 52 Chetumal, 211 Vallarta), 159–160 Senior travel, 365 Cozumel, 144–147 Señor Frog’s (Cozumel), 148 dining service tips, 50 S Shopping Isla Mujeres, 126–128 Sacred Cenote (Chichén Itzá), best, 14–15 Izamal, 254 289–290 Campeche, 283 Laguna Bacalar, 208 Safety, 364–365 Cancún, 14, 81, 100–101 Mérida, 239–243 Sammulá cenote (near Cozumel, 147 GENERAL INDEX Palenque, 317 Valladolid), 298 Isla Mujeres, 129 Playa del Carmen, 169–171 San Antonio de Padua (Izamal), Mérida, 243–246 San Cristóbal, 332–334 253 Playa del Carmen, 171–172 Tulum, 190 San Bernardino de Siena San Cristóbal, 334–335 Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 340, 342 (Valladolid), 296 Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 342 Valladolid, 298 Sanborn’s Mexico Insurance, 348 Valladolid, 298–299 Villahermosa, 310–311 San Crisanto, 258 Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, Revolution Day, 53–54 San Cristóbal de las Casas, 3, 6, 64, 198–201 Ría Lagartos Nature Reserve, 54, 63, 322–338 Siete Bocas (cenote), 159–160 64, 301–302 accommodations, 336–337 Smoking, 365 Río Bec region, 212 arriving and departing, 324–325 Sna Jolobil (San Cristóbal), 335 Río Secreto, 176 coffeehouses, 334 Snorkeling, 3 Riviera Maya and the southern entertainment and nightlife, Cancún, 88–91 Caribbean coast, 335–336 Cozumel, 140 57, 153–220 exploring, 327–332 Isla Mujeres, 123 all-inclusive resorts in, 173 getting around, 326 Playa del Carmen, 168–169 best travel experiences in, layout, 326 Tulum, 188–189 153–154 nearby Maya villages and Xel-Ha, 185 driving, 156 countryside, 329–332 , Xel-Ha, 185 Roman Catholicism, 35–37 nightlife, 16 Social norms, 21–22 Rosalia (Playa del Carmen), 172 recommended books, 326 Soliman Bay, 186 Ruins and archaeological sites, 3 restaurants, 332–334 Sotuta de Peón, Hacienda (near Acanceh, 260 road trips from, 337–338 Mérida), 238, 249 Balamkú, 220 safety, 324 Sound-and-light show Becán, 216–217 shopping, 334–335 Chichén Itzá, 287 Bonampak, 320, 338 visitor information, 325 Mérida, 253 Calakmul, 217–220, 285 weather, 327 Uxmal, 258, 263 Chicanná, 217 San Francisco Reef, 138 Spa del Mar (Cancún), 108 Chichén Itzá, 287–292 San Gervasio, 143 Spanish art and architecture, 34 Chincultic, 338 San Ildefonso, Catedral de Spanish conquest and colonial Cobá, 195–197 (Mérida), 233 rule, 25–26 near Cozumel, 151 San Juan Chamula, 330–331 Spanish Institute, 59 Dzibanché (Tzibanché), 214 Santa Anna, Antonio López Spring Equinox (Chichén Itzá), 52 Dzibilchaltún (near Mérida), de, 26 Squaloadventures (Isla Mujeres), 237–238 Santa Elena, accommodations, 122 Edzná, 279–281 267–268 St. Peter and St. Paul’s Day (Día Isla Mujeres, 125 Santa Rosa Wall, 138 de San Pedro), 52 Izamal, 254 Sayil, 269–270 Structure 38 (Dzibilchaltún), 238 Kabah, 268–269 Scorpions, 353–354 Structure I (Becán), 217 Kinichná, 215 Scuba Cancún, 89 Structure I (Xpujil), 216 Labná, 270–271 Scuba diving, 3, 12 Structure II Loltún, 271–272 Akumal, 182 Calakmul, 218 Mayapán, 260–261 Cancún, 88–91 Chicanná, 217 Muyil, 202 Chinchorro Reef Underwater Structure III (Calakmul), 218 Palenque, 313–317 National Park, 204 Structure IV (Becán), 217 Puuc Maya Route, 268–272 Cozumel, 56, 138 Structure VI (Dzibanché), 214 Río Bec region, 212 Isla Mujeres, 122 Structure VII (Calakmul), 219 San Gervasio, 143 Playa del Carmen, 168–169 Student travel, 366 Sayil, 269–270 Tulum, 188–189 SubSee Explorer (Cancún), 90 Toniná, 321–322 Scuba Du (Cozumel), 140 Sumidero Canyon, 340 Tulum, 11, 189–190 Scuba-Mex, 178 Sun exposure, 352 Uxmal, 263–266 Sculptured Spaces (Isla Sunscreen, biodegradable, 58 Xcambó, 258 Mujeres), 125 Super Chomak (Akumal), 183

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114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 388388 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM Sustainable tourism, 57–59 Temple of the Warriors (Chichén Unión Regional de Artesanías Swimming, 2 Itzá), 290 de los Altos (San Cristóbal), Templo de los Dinteles (Chichén 335

T Itzá), 292 Universidad de Yucatán GENERAL INDEX Tabasco (state), 55, 57, Templo de los Guerreros (Mérida), 236 63, 305–312 (Temple of the Warriors; Uxmal, 12, 263–268 fl oods, 58 Chichén Itzá), 290 routes to, 258–260 Tabos reef, 122 Templo de los Inscripciones Tacos, 44 Iniciales (Chichén Itzá), 292 V Taller de Artesanía Los Ceibos Templo de los Tableros (Chichén Valladolid, 294–303 (Muna), 259 Itzá), 291 Valladolid English library, 297 Tamales, 44–45 Templo del Venado (Chichén Viajes Na Chan Kan, 320 Tankah Bay, 186 Itzá), 290 Villahermosa, 306–312 Taxes, 366 Templo de San Cristóbal, 329 Villa rentals, 355–356 Taxis, 351 Tenejapa, 332 Cancún, 104 Teatro Armando Manzanero Tennis, Cancún, 93 Cozumel, 148 (Mérida), 234, 246 Teotihuacán, 23, 24 Isla Mujeres, 130 Teatro Daniel Ayala (Mérida), Tequila, 49 Virgin of Guadalupe, 35 246 The Native, 60 Feast of the, 54 Teatro Daniel Ayala Pérez The Church (Chichén Itzá), 292 Visas, 367 (Mérida), 235 The City (Cancún), 102 Visitor information, 368 Teatro Peón Contreras (Mérida), The Cross of the Bay, 122–123 Campeche, 275 227, 236, 246 The Dovecote (Uxmal), 266 Cancún, 84 , 260 The Great Pyramid (Uxmal), 266 Cozumel, 137 Tejidos y Cordeles Nacionales The Lobby Lounge at The Ritz- Isla Mujeres, 120 (Mérida), 245–246 Carlton (Cancún), 103 Mérida, 227–228 Telchac Puerto, 258 The North Temple (Chichén Palenque, 313 Telephones, 366–367 Itzá), 289 Playa del Carmen, 166 Temple 13 (Palenque), 316 The Nunnery Quadrangle San Cristóbal, 325 Temple 14 (Palenque), 316 (Uxmal), 264–265 Tulum, 187 Temple IV (Calakmul), 219 The Observatory (Chichén Itzá), Valladolid, 294 Temple of Jaguars (Chichén 291 Villahermosa, 308 Itzá), 289 Three Kings’ Day (Día de los Temple of the Big Masks Reyes), 51 W (Edzná), 280 Ticul, 262 Water, drinking, 46, 368 Temple of the Cormorant Tienda Chiapas (San Cristóbal), Watersports. See also specifi c (Dzibanché), 214 334–335 sports Temple of the Count (Palenque), Time zone, 367 Cancún, 88 316 Tipping, 367 Cozumel, 138, 140 Temple of the Cross (Palenque), Toilets, 367 Playa del Carmen, 169 316 Toltec, 24–25 Wet Set Diving Adventure Temple of the Deer (Chichén Tomb of the High Priest (Puerto Morelos), 158 Itzá), 290–291 (Chichén Itzá), 290 Wet Wendy’s (Cozumel), 148 Temple of the First Inscriptions Toniná, 321–322 Whale sharks, 13 (Chichén Itzá), 292 Tortillas, 44 Isla Holbox, 303 Temple of the Foliated Cross Monument No. 6 Wheelchair accessibility, 357 (Palenque), 316 (Villahermosa), 309–310 Wildlife, 56. See also Bird- Temple of the Four Kings Tours, 59–60 watching (Balamkú), 220 Trek America, 60 Biouniverzoo (Chetumal), 209 Temple of the Frescoes (Tulum), Tropical illnesses, 354 Celestún National Wildlife 189–190 Tropical storms, 50 Refuge, 64, 255–256 Temple of the Grinding Stones Tulum, 11, 151, 187–195 Miguel Alvarez del Toro Zoo (Chichén Itzá), 290 Tumba del Gran Sacerdote (ZOOMAT; Tuxtla Gutiérrez), Temple of the Inscriptions (Chichén Itzá), 290 340 (Palenque), 315–316 Turibus (Mérida), 230 William Lawson’s Yucatán Temple of the Lintels (Chichén Turtle Farm (Isla Mujeres), 124 Excursions, 239 Itzá), 292 Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 339–344 Women travelers, 368 Temple of the Owl (Dzibanché), Tzibanché (Dzibanché), 213–214 214 Tzompantli (Temple of the X Temple of the Panels (Chichén Skulls; Chichén Itzá), 289 Xcalak, 206–207 Itzá), 291 U Xcambó, 258 Temple of the Seven Dolls , 151, 176–180 (Dzibilchaltún), 237–238 Uaymitun, 258 Xel-Ha, 9, 184–185 Temple of the Sun (Palenque), Ultrafemme (Cancún), 100 Xibalba Dive Center (Tulum), 316 179

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114_9781118287583-bindex.indd4_9781118287583-bindex.indd 389389 66/19/12/19/12 6:046:04 PMPM Xlapak, 270 Yañez, Germán, 140 Z Xplor, 151, 179 Yaxchilán, 13–14, 320 Zapatista Liberation Army Xpu-Ha, 180–182 Yaxcopoil, 259 (EZLN), 325 Xpujil, 213, 216 Yoga, Isla Mujeres, 123 Zinacantán, 326, 331 Tours (Campeche), 281 Yucab Reef, 138 Zona Hotelera (Cancún), 85 XTC Dive Center (Xcalak), 204 Yucatán Zuñiga, José Luis, 314, 330, 338 Xunaan ha, 179 culture and people, 19–20 websites, 224 Y Yucatek Divers, 357 Yalat (Valladolid), 298–299 Yukatek Divers (Playa del Yal-ku Lagoon, 183 Carmen), 179 PHOTO CREDITS Photo Credits p. i: © Eric Blanc; p. iii: © Jose Granados; p. iv: © Jose Granados; p. v: © Jose Granados; p. 1: © Jose Granados; p. 2: © Jose Granados; p. 3: © Martha Roque; p. 6, top: © Richard Broadwell/Alamy; p. 6, bottom: © Jose Granados; p. 8: © Martha Roque; p. 10: © George Oze/Alamy; p. 11: © Yoni Levi/Frommers.com Community; p. 12: © Chris A. 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