Welcome to Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Yucatán Peninsula captivates visitors with its endless offerings of natural wonders and an ancient culture that’s still very much alive today.

Life’s a Beach Nature’s Playground Without a doubt, this corner of Mexico has The Yucatán is the real deal for nature some of the most beautiful stretches of enthusiasts. With colorful underwater coastline you’ll ever see – which explains scenery like none other, it offers some of in large part why beaches get top billing the best diving and snorkeling sites in the on the peninsula. On the east coast you world. Then you have the many biosphere have the famous coral-crushed white sands reserves and national parks that are home and turquoise-blue waters of the Mexican to a remarkably diverse variety of animal Caribbean, while up north you’ll find sleepy and plant life. Just to give you an idea of fishing villages with sandy streets and what’s in store: you can swim with whale wildlife-rich surroundings. For the ultimate sharks, spot crocodiles and flamingos, help beach-bumming experience you can always liberate sea turtles and observe hundreds hit one of several low-key islands off the upon hundreds of bird species. Caribbean coast. Culture & Fun Maya Ruins Galore In case you need a little something more You can’t help but feel awestruck when than pretty beaches, ancient ruins and standing before the pyramids, temples and outdoor adventures, you’ll be glad to know ball courts of one of the most brilliant pre- that culture and fun-filled activities abound Hispanic civilizations of all time. Yes, those in the Yucatán. On any given day you may Maya certainly knew a thing or two about come across soulful dance performances, architecture and they were no slouchers free concerts, interesting museums or art when it came to astronomy, science and exhibits – particularly in Mérida, the penin- mathematics either. Witnessing their sula’s cultural capital. For all-out fun, the remarkable achievements firsthand leaves a Yucatán is one big splashfest after another lasting impression on even the most jaded with thousands of underground natural traveler – and the peninsula is chock-full of pools, theme parks with subterranean these mind-blowing Maya archaeological rivers, and all kinds of thrilling boat tours. sites. 5 too

waaay Above: Tulum beach and ancient Maya ruinsbeachancientand Maya Tulum Above: Why I Love Cancún,Why I Love Cozumel & the Yucatán By John Hecht, Author have a dip in a gorgeouscenote (limestone sinkhole) or explore amazing coral - Above all, I love the colors. Maybe I’ve been living in smog-choked Mexico City For more about our authors, see page 320 problem reefs. And don’t even get me started about Yucatán’sthe wonderful regional cuisine. that many shades of intense blue, or can jungles and mangroves really be so chlorophyll green? I also love that there are so many things to do. Had your fill of Maya ruins? No long now but every time I visit the peninsula I find myself asking: can an ocean really have

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Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán’s Top 17 9 PAM MCLEAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

yucateco sopa de (pork) Buen provecho cochinita (people of the Yucatán , you’re in, you’re for a real treat. Even Yucatecos . Often wrapped in banana leaves (chicken) and (chicken) If you’ve never tried regional cuisine (a brothy lime (a soup).

Savor theSavor Flavors 2 by Mexican standards, with its strong culinary tradition, the Yucatán is a foodie’s haven. Peninsula) are famous for their marinated pollo pibiles and cooked underground for what seems aneternity, this meaty traditional dish reigns supreme on the peninsula. And a visit wouldn’t be complete without sampling a delicious homestyle lima soup Tortilla Below: -

divers

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cenote limestone (a

The Maya considered themsacred gateways the to underworld. OK, so

ing, fun-filled swimming holes, while others, such as the underground cave system at Dos Ojos (p111), draw from far and wide. sinkhole) you’ll better understand where the Maya were coming from. Anestimated 6000 cenotes dot the peninsula; some, like the spectacular pair of caverns at Cenote Dzitnup (p186), make for refresh 1 maybe they had a flair for the dramatic, but once you visit a Swimming in Cenotes ANJCI / GETTY IMAGES © BALAN MADHAVAN / GETTY IMAGES © -

Calakmul (p215) The ‘Kingdom of the Serpent’s Head’ was one of the most powerful Maya

Calakmul, Jungle Ruins 4 cities that ever existed. What has survived the ravages of time here is very impressive – some of the Maya’s largest and tallest pyramids, with awesome views of expan sive surrounding jungle alive with birds, monkeys and jaguars. And relatively recent excavations at have unearthed an amazing rarity in the Maya world – incredibly well-preserved painted murals and a spectacular stucco frieze. - -

San Cristóbal de las Casas

Wander through the cobblestone streets of

by the fireplace a of cozy watering hole. ploring captivating churches and shopping at markets for amber or chocolate, then dine at one of many gourmet restaurants in town. Late nights are best whiled away mix of modern and Maya, with cosmopoli tan cafes and traditional culture, it’s also a jumping-off point for fascinatingTzotzil and Tzeltal villages. Spend sunny days ex (p223), thehigh-altitude colonialcity in the heart of indigenous Chiapas. A heady Magical San Cristóbal 3 3 4

Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán’s Top 17

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Cobá

Everyone will tell you to get to the ruins of the

Morning in and explore the ruins on a rented bike. Pyramid, Mul Nohoch right: Above Cobá 7 Yucatán early beat to the crowds, but at the ruins of Cobá (p120) it really makes a difference. be thereTo as the jungle awakens – with bird calls and the morninglight fil tering through the canopy – ismagical. The experi ence of climbing the mas sive Nohoch Mul pyramid and looking out over the surrounding jungle on your own is unbeatable. Make it even more memorable -

WITOLD SKRYPCZAK / GETTY IMAGES © NATHAN BLANEY / GETTY IMAGES © 5 Cancún may not appeal to everyone,

where the happening nightlife scene is within stumbling distance of most hotels and the Zona Hotelera’s beaches are just a short bus ride away. Zona Chac-Mool, right: Playa Top Cancún Hotelera, Hotelera, for instance, straddles some of the most precious Caribbean coastline in the Yucatán and it boasts the new Museo Maya de Cancún (p56), plus several small Maya ruins. For local flavor, stay in downtown Cancún, Cancún 6 but the resort city certain lyhas its charms. The Zona - - - -

Isla Cozumel,

Don’t miss the opportunity to plunge

music, dancing and plenty of partying. naval (p90), a street cel ebration infused with lively on visiting in February, don’t miss the annual Car types sufficiently enter tained. If planning you’re ful beaches and pleasant town square keep nondiver are undeniably the main draw, the island’s beauti diving and snorkeling destinations. While the spectacular coral reefs surrounding one of the world’s best 5 into the colorful waters Diving in Cozumel

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n 10 , C , VISIONSOFAMERICA / JOE SOHM / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / SOHM / JOE VISIONSOFAMERICA o z umel & & the Y ucat á n ’ s T op 17 17 Playa del Carmen Isla Mujeres Wonderful European chic. Night- Isla Mujeres (p75) Chichén Itzá 8 life extraordinaire. 9 doesn’t have the Ever since Chichén Rivera Maya boomtown. mega-resort mindset of Itzá (p177) was Oh yeah, Playa del Carmen nearby Cancún across the named10 one of the new (p102) has some pretty bay, and therein lies its seven wonders of the nice beaches too. And if appeal. Even though it’s world, it started making at any moment you grow a fairly small island, you its way onto many bucket tired of wining, dining and should have no problem lists. The massive El dancing under the moon at finding things to do. Scuba Castillo pyramid, Chichén beachside discos, you’ll be diving and snorkeling are Itzá’s most iconic struc- happy to know that Playa big, and it has some of the ture, will knock your socks makes for a convenient most swimmable beaches off, especially at vernal and base to explore nearby on the Yucatán, making it autumnal equinoxes, when sinkholes, such as Crista- perfect for kids. The island morning and afternoon lino cenote (p110), and it’s is also home to the Isla sunlight cast a shadow of also a prime spot for scuba Mujeres Turtle Farm (p77), a feathered serpent on the diving and snorkeling. which releases tens of staircase. thousands of turtles each Above: El Castillo (p180), year and has a nice little Chichén Itzá aquarium. Top right: Sea turtle 13

Isla Contoy Peerless Palenque Parque Nacional Isla Contoy (p70), Gather all your senses and dive an uninhabited island just a short headfirst into these amazing ruins distance11 from Cancún and Isla Mujeres, (p234),12 one of the Maya world’s finest. allows only 200 visitors a day in order to Here pyramids rise above jungle treetops PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN retain its mostly pristine environment. and howler monkeys sound off like mon- Home to more than 150 bird species sters in the dense canopy. Wander the and nesting sea turtles during summer mazelike Palace, gazing up at its iconic months, the island will definitely appeal to tower. Scale the stone staircases of the nature lovers and those simply looking to Templo de las Inscripciones, the lavish get in a little hiking and snorkeling. mausoleum of Pakal. Following the Otulum river and its pretty waterfalls, and end by

visiting Palenque’s excellent museum. C Bottom: Templo de la Cruz, Palenque anc ú n , C ,

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Laguna Bacalar Known as ‘the lake of seven colors’ for its intense shades of blue and

Scenic 14 aqua-green, it doesn’t get any more scenic for an afternoon swim than sparkling Laguna Bacalar (p132). Resort hotel Rancho Encantado (p133) has quite pos sibly the best view on the shore, and at the southlake’s end you can take plunge a into the 90m-deep Cenote Azul (p132). Azul Cenote Bottom: Campeche’s

(beachside provides promenade) This lovely colonialThislovely city (p196) a is more pleasantlarger, the antidoteto

goodnightsettingthe sun.to walls and home to narrow cobblednarrow andwallshome to streets well-preservedwith buildings. the Nearby, malecón stroll, finepeople-watch to place a and say Unesco-listedpastel a historiclike centeris wonderland,surrounded highstone by few tourists make it here you’ll get more of of more get you’ll heretourists it few make Mexican real that experience. bustling destinationstourist-filled other in partsYucatán.theAndsince relatively of Campeche’s CityWalled 13 14 13

Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán’s Top 17

PLAN YOUR TRIP 14 15 PLAN YOUR TRIP Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán’s Top 17 - 17 16 - -

Tulum ruins Tulum Talk about your your about Talk beachfrontprime

bars along Tulum Pueblo’s Pueblo’s Tulum along bars the escapeto or strip main quiet a for Hotelera Zona dinner. oceanfront ruins, and Castillo El right: Bottom Tulum Ruins 17 dramati The estate! real situated cally high a atop pretty, (p113)sit spectacu a overlooking cliff Afterbeach. white-sand lar sun-baked the marvelingat dodging and ruins, Maya distracted and iguanas off cap can you tourists, a with lessonhistory your azure the in dip refreshing Car Mexican the of waters nighttime,Comeibbean. fiestas in soulful on in join Tulum, Scenic -

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and art galleries. yucateco watch all sorts of spirited song-and-dance around the main plaza, aka Plaza Grande. And living up to its fame as the peninsula’s cultural capital, Mérida abounds with museums off a couple days to get to Mérida a town (p141), with awesome Spanish colonial architecture un like anything you’ll find by the sea. The weekends see great citywide parties: the city center closes cars to and you can munch on Mérida, Cultural Capital 16 del Carmen should carve

You gottaYou love a place with no cars

Holbox

watching. shark whale left: Above and nearby islands for some excellent bird- shark season, boat tours go freshwater to a spring rage at Holbox these days. ifEven you miss whale- (p71). Snorkeling(p71). with 15- ton whale sharks is all the hectic as it gets on this low-key fisherfolks’ island down Holbox’s sandy streets for the dinner-hour rush, but that’s about as you may see some golf carts humming up and 15 and no banks. Granted, Isla

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Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p277)

Currency When to Go Mexican peso (M$)

Language Spanish, Maya

Visas # Tourist permit required; # some nationalities also # need visas #

Money ATMs widely available in big cities and most towns . Credit cards accepted in many

midrange and top-end # hotels and restaurants .

Cell Phones Many US cell-phone companies offer Mexico roaming deals . Local SIM cards can only be used on phones that High Season Shoulder Low Season have been unlocked . (Dec-Apr) Season (May, Jun, ¨¨Remains dry for (Jul & Aug) Sep-Nov) Time the most part, but ¨¨Very hot and ¨¨Weather Central Standard Time so-called ‘nortes’ humid throughout cools down from (GMC/UTC minus six bring northerly the peninsula . September to hours) winds and occasional Hurricane season November . Hurricane showers . begins . and rainy seasons ¨¨Hotel rates ¨¨Vacationing end in October . increase Mexicans flock to the ¨¨Great deals on considerably, even beaches to beat the hotels . Crowds thin more so during ‘ultra’ heat . out at ruins, beaches high-season periods and other popular around Christmas attractions . and Easter . 17 Websites Daily Costs Archaeological sites 8am-5pm Yucatán Today (www yucatan. Budget: Museums 9am-5pm Tuesday today com). Online version of Less than M$500 to Sunday free monthly magazine covering ¨ Dorm bed: M$130-200 Yucatán and Campeche states . ¨ Arriving in

¨¨Double room in budget TRIP YOUR PLAN Loco Gringo (www .locogringo . hotel: M$350-400 Cancún, Cozumel com) A good site to book homes & Yucatán and hotels on the Riviera Maya . ¨¨Street eats or economical set menu: M$20-50 Aeropuerto Internacional de Lonely Planet (www .lonely Cancún Yellow Transfers shut- planet com/mexico). Lonely ¨¨City bus: M$5-10 tles, with ticket offices inside the Planet’s Mexico portal . Midrange: terminal, cost M$160 per person

Yucatán Tierra de Maravillas to Ciudad Cancún or the Zona N

M$1000-1500 eed (www yucatan. travel). Yucatan Hotelera . ADO buses (M$52) go state tourism site . ¨¨Double room in comfortable to the downtown bus station .

hotel: M$600-1200 Regular taxis and private vans to (www .rivieramaya . Riviera Maya K ¨¨Lunch or dinner in decent charge M$450 to M$500 . com) Has info on the Riviera now Maya’s sights and activities . restaurant: M$150-250 Cozumel Airport Shared shuttle ¨ Short taxi trip: M$20-50 vans from the airport into town Campeche Travel (www . ¨ cost M$60 . For hotels on the campeche travel). Campeche ¨¨Sightseeing, activities: island’s north end, the shuttles state tourism board site . M$200 charge M$96 and to the south side expect to pay between Top End: Important M$97 and M$140 . More than M$2000 Numbers Mérida airport Curbside ¨ Double room in upscale ¨ Transporte Terrestre taxis Police %066 hotel: from M$1200 charge M$180 per carload to Fire %068 ¨¨Dining in fine restaurant: downtown . Buses (M$8) do not Tourist %078 M$250-500 enter the airport; catch one on assistance ¨¨Car rental: from M$600 the main road if you don’t mind Country code %52 per day walking . International %00 ¨¨Tours: M$1000-2500 access code Getting Around Opening Hours Shared Van Colectivos (shared vans) are quicker and cheaper Exchange Rates Here we’ve provided high- than buses . Most have frequent season opening hours; hours at departures . Australia A$1 M$13 .13 some places may decrease dur- 1st- and 2nd-class buses go Canada C$1 M$12 70. ing shoulder and low seasons . Bus Some shops, restaurants and pretty much everywhere in the Euro €1 M$17 01. hotels may close for several Yucatán . zone weeks – or several months – Great option for traveling Japan ¥100 M$13 74. Car during low season . outside big cities . Expect to pay New NZ$1 M$10 63. Banks 9am-4pm Monday to Fri- about M$750 a day for rental Zealand day, 10am-2pm Saturday (some and gas . UK UK£1 M$21 60. banks do not open Saturday and USA US$1 M$12 73. hours may vary) Bars and clubs 10pm-3am For much more on getting around, see Stores & shops 9am-8pm Monday to Saturday p290 18

First Time Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán

For more information, see Survival Guide (p277)

Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip ¨¨Make sure you have a valid ¨¨For beaches and scuba diving, visit the peninsula’s Caribbean passport side . For culture, Maya ruins and nature experiences, go west . ¨¨Check if your country ¨Ävoid staying in accommodations where mosquitoes may be a requires a visa to enter problem . If you’re unfortunate enough to get pricked by one carrying Mexico (p287) the dengue virus, expect to spend several days in bed . ¨Ïnform your debit/credit ¨¨Visiting Maya communities brings money into local economies card company of your travels and the experience leaves you with a lasting impression . ¨¨Get necessary ¨¨Driving at night in Mexico can be very dangerous . If you must do vaccinations (p282) it, toll highways have better lighting and fewer potholes than the libre (free) roads . ¨¨Book hotels in advance ¨¨Look in to travel insurance options (p283) What to Wear ¨¨Check if you can use your Keep in mind that the Yucatán, especially in Mérida, gets cell phone (p286) very hot in the months of April and May, so bring light and loose-fitting clothes to stay cool. If you’re staying on the ¨ Check your airline’s ¨ coast or in cool inland areas, bring a light sweater or jacket baggage restrictions for evenings. Take long-sleeve shirts and long pants/skirts for protection against mosquitoes, especially if you plan to be near mangrove swamps or jungles; this attire is also good What to Pack for formal restaurants and for visiting nonbeach towns, where you’ll see fewer people wearing shorts and tank tops. ¨¨Passport ¨¨Credit and/or debit card Sleeping ¨¨Driver’s license (if driving) If you’re planning on visiting during high season (mid- ¨¨Scuba or snorkel gear December to April), it’s a good idea to book your accommo- ¨¨Sunscreen dation in advance. See p278 for more information. ¨Ïnsect repellent ¨¨Hotels Range from budget digs to all-inclusive resorts ¨¨Swim suit ¨¨Guesthouses Family-run houses that usually provide good value and more personable service . ¨¨Phrasebook ¨¨Hostels The most affordable option and a great way to meet ¨¨Camera other travelers . ¨¨Pocketknife ¨¨Bungalows From cheap cabins to elegant, boutique setups . ¨¨Cell phone and charger ¨¨B&Bs A little more intimate and slightly more upscale than some guesthouses . 19

Money Language ATMs can be found in all English is widely spoken in Cancún and the Riviera major and medium-size cit- Maya. Elsewhere on the peninsula, you can get by ies and most small towns. with English in the main tourist centers, but outside

In towns with just one or of these Spanish is useful. Any effort to speak Spanish TRIP YOUR PLAN two ATMs, the machines is appreciated. See Language for more information. might run out of money, so bring extra cash just Phrases to Learn Before You Go in case. For security, use ATMs during the day; also Where can I buy handicrafts? be aware that every time ¿Dónde se puede comprar artesanías? don·de se pwe·de kom·prar ar·te·sa·nee·as you pull out money you’ll be charged ‘service fees.’ Star buys in Mexico are the regional handicrafts produced all CANC TIME FIRST Most midrange and top- over the country, mainly by the indigenous people. end hotels and restaurants Which antojitos do you have? accept major credit cards; ¿Qué antojitos tiene? ke an·to·khee·tos tye·ne Visa is the most commonly ‘Little whimsies’ (snacks) can encompass anything – have an accepted. Plan on making entire meal of them, eat a few as appetisers, or get one on the all cash purchases with street for a quick bite.

Mexican pesos. You can Ú exchange cash at banks or Not too spicy, please. CO N, money-exchange offices. No muy picoso, por favor. no mooy pee·ko·so por fa·vor

For more information, Not all food in Mexico is spicy, but beware – many dishes can Z UMEL & THE YUCAT THE & UMEL see p284. be  erce indeed, so it may be a good idea to play it safe. Where can I  nd a cantina nearby? Bargaining ¿Dónde hay una cantina cerca de aquí? don·de ai oo·na kan·tee·na ser·ka de a·kee Most stores and shops have set prices. You can do some Ask locals about the classical Mexican venue for endless friendly haggling in some snacks, and often dancing as well. arts and crafts markets, How do you say … in your language? Á

but don’t get carried away – ¿Cómo se dice … en su lengua? N most of the artisans are just ko·mo se dee·se … en su len·gwa trying to make a living. Numerous indigenous languages are spoken around Mexico, primarily Mayan languages and Náhuatl. People will appreciate Tipping it if you try to use their local language. ¨¨Hotels About 5% to 10% of room costs for staff ¨¨Restaurants Leave 15% if Etiquette service is not already included ¨¨Greetings A handshake is standard when meeting people in the check for the first time . Among friends, men usually exchange back- ¨¨Supermarkets Baggers slapping hugs; for women it’s usually an (air) kiss on the cheek . usually get M$3 to M$5 ¨¨Conversation Yucatecos are generally warm and entertaining ¨¨Porters Tip M$20 per bag conversationalists . As a rule, they express disagreement more by ¨¨Taxis Drivers don’t expect nuance than by contradiction . The Maya can be more reserved . tips unless they provide an extra service Safety ¨ Bartenders usually ¨Bars Is it safe to go to the Yucatán, given all the news about don’t get tipped, so anything is Mexico’s drug-related violence? The answer is yes. Yucatán appreciated has barely been touched by the violence, which is mostly in northern Mexico. Safety precautions are as they would be for anywhere else in the world (such as avoiding hitch- hiking and not putting up resistance if mugged). 20

If You Like…

Maya Ruins Beach Resorts Colonial Towns The peninsula boasts some There’s more to the beach The 300-year period of of the best-preserved and resort experience than Spanish rule left behind most remarkable ruins in white sands and turquoise awesome plazas and opu- all of Mexico. waters. Each destination lent mansions and has its own unique vibe. haciendas. Chichén Itzá Recently named one of the ‘new seven wonders Cancún The mother of all Mérida Even if you’re not big on of the world ’. Enough said . megaresorts is part glitzy hotel architecture, the stately man- (p177) zone, part downtown scene with sions in the peninsula’s cultural local flavor . (p56) capital never cease to amaze . Tulum Maya ruins perched atop (p141) a cliff with jaw-dropping views of Isla Cozumel A popular divers’ the Caribbean blue down below . destination with a pleasant town Campeche The protective walls (p113) square and surprisingly quiet once used to fend off pirate at- beaches . (p84) tacks still stand today . (p196) Cobá A sprawling site in a jungle setting that’s best explored on a Isla Mujeres Has some of the Valladolid Think Mérida without bicycle . (p121) most gorgeous beaches around the grandeur . Colonial flavor but is more low-key than here comes on a smaller, more Calakmul High pyramids sit Cancún and Cozumel . (p75) intimate scale . (p184) pretty in a huge Maya city tucked away in a rainforest . Playa del Carmen The hippest San Cristóbal de las Casas The (p215) beach town on the coast – cobbled streets of San Cristóbal European chic meets the Mexi- lead to splendid colonial-era Palenque Exquisite Maya can Caribbean . (p102) churches . (p223) temples backed by steamy, jungle-covered hills . (p234) Tulum Idyllic beachside bun- Izamal Smack in the middle galows coupled with a buzzing, of town rises the imposing Uxmal Set in the hilly Puuc friendly inland town . (p113) Convento de San Antonio de region, this site contains some Padua . (p175) of the most fascinating struc- Puerto Morelos Calm, small- tures you’ll ever see . (p159) town feel, plus great diving and snorkeling . (p99) Yaxchilán Half the fun is getting there on a riverboat adventure Diving & deep in the Chiapas jungle . Snorkeling (p240) Not only does this region have some of the best reef diving in the world it also IF YOU LIKE… TURTLES offers fascinating dives in Check out the Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm, which cave systems. liberates more than 100,000 of these little guys Isla Cozumel The famed each year. (p77) reefs of this island draw diving 21 PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like… - -

- - -

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(p99) (p115) . . (grilled

(p176) yucateco Uses Uses . The largest The largest pibipollo Get in some in some Get A trip to Mérida trip to A poc-chuc Offers a contem a Offers (p71) Offers excellent excellent Offers During summer During (egg enchiladas) and enchiladas) (egg Well-known in Ciudad Well-known (p107) (p77) (p213) Exquisitely prepared prepared Exquisitely Nearby cenotes (lime cenotes Nearby (p84) (p152) (p129) . Yucatán is unquestion is Yucatán La Cueva del Chango La Cueva ac ingredients natural fresh, of the flavors with local cented peninsula . wouldn’t be complete without be complete wouldn’t . at the Chaya or three a meal (p152) La Fuente its del Carmen for under cooked tamales (chicken . ground) Manjar Blanco on classic take porary such as dishes, pork) . Tulum wonder provide sinkholes) stone and snorkel to ful opportunities and caves in caverns dive Morelos Puerto aficionados from all over the over all from aficionados . world Chinchorro Banco hemi western in the atoll coral colorful its for known sphere; and sunken scenery underwater ships Isla Holbox with snorkel can you months of this coast the off whale sharks island . low-key Isla Mujeres a new diving and there’s reef in museum sculpture underwater . the area traditional dishes – try the – try dishes traditional papadzules why understand you’ll Maya La Chaya wreck diving here; the barrier barrier the here; diving wreck 600m offshore is just reef Regional Cuisine The most Mexico’s of one ably culinary remarkable destinations. Kinich Cathedral,Campeche (p196)

Tulum (p113), Riviera MayaRiviera (p113), Tulum Top: Bottom:

MONICA AND MICHAEL SWEET / GETTY IMAGES © SLOW IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © 22 keling tours in this magnificent Arts & Crafts reserve . (p190) Swimming Parque Nacional Isla Contoy Between cenotes, swimma- Hamacas El Aguacate Who An uninhabited island that’s ble beaches and spectacular doesn’t like to catch a siesta on home to more than 150 bird a quality hammock? Buy one pools, you can enjoy a per-

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN species and provides nesting here, then it’s sweet dreams fectly amphibious existence grounds for sea turtles as well . here. baby . (p155) (p70) Cenote Dzitnup A lovely cavern Artisans’ Market A main Reserva de la Biosfera Pan- pool near Valladolid with álamo attraction in Puerto Morelos, tanos de Centla This massive (poplar) roots stretching down this market sells authentic reserve in Tabasco has glorious many meters . (p186) Tixkokob hammocks and fine lakes, marshes, rivers and, jewelry at fair prices . (p101) Playa Norte Swimming in the

I of course, abundant wildlife . f

Y shallow, crystalline waters Bazar Artesanal Campeche’s (p228) ou of this Isla Mujeres beach is Folk Art Bazaar is a one-stop Reserva de la Biosfera Sian

L heavenly . (p76) shop for regional crafts . (p204)

ike Ka’an A sprawling jungle – the Le Blanc This Cancún resort Los Cinco Soles Pick up black dwelling of howler monkeys, … hotel boasts a gorgeous azure ceramics from Oaxaca and jaguars, pumas and hundreds of infinity pool overlooking the Talavera pottery at this Isla bird species . (p124) Caribbean Sea . (p64) Cozumel crafts store . (p94) Cristalino Cenote A quiet spot Mercado Municipal Ki-Huic A with mangrove on one side and labyrinthine downtown Cancún Nightlife & a large open section you can market carrying a wide variety dive into . (p110) of handicrafts . (p67) Dancing Xcaret Kids love swimming and Centro Cultural y Artesanal Mambo Café Groove to live snorkeling in underground rivers Crafts purchases here help Cuban salsa music at this down- and caves in this Riviera Maya support rural indigenous town Cancún nightclub . (p66) fun park . (p102) families . (p176) Papaya Playa Project The Tribal Room at this hotel has been known to throw a fair number of wild beach parties . (p119) Nature Getaway Experiences La Fundación Mezcalería Sip Destinations some smoky mezcals (alcoholic The peninsula spoils nature agave drink) at this happening Xcalak No cruise ships, no lovers silly with its wide ar- Mérida retro bar . (p153) gas stations, no banks and a ray of wildlife in biosphere wonderful barrier reef – the reserves and national Fusion The beach often be- Caribbean coast as it once was . parks. comes an impromptu stage for (p131) fire dancers at this cool Playa Reserva de la Biosfera Ría del Carmen bar . (p108) Río Lagartos Nature tours and Celestún Head out to the man- whiling away the time in a sleepy groves here to spy flamingos Salón Rincón Colonial An fishing village on the northern and crocs . (p170) atmospheric Cuban-style drink- coast . (p190) ing establishment that served Reserva de la Biosfera Ría as a location for the Antonio Punta Allen The road to this Lagartos Experienced guides Banderas flickOriginal Sin . remote beach community ain’t lead bird-watching and snor- (p204) pretty but the village sure is . (p124) San Crisanto Palm groves; quiet, white-sand beaches; and IF YOU LIKE… SPICY FOOD a few rustic cabins: it’s the ultimate escapist’s retreat . (p175) The Yucatán is home to the four-alarm habanero chili, one of the hottest peppers on the planet. (p262) Corozal, Belize Not much happens in this small coastal 23 DENNIS WALTON / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY WALTON/ DENNIS PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN I f Y ou L ike …

Ceramic skulls, Chichén Itzá

community and that’s what ones and the town’s pyramids Head down to the lovely San makes it so darn appealing . are fun to climb . (p184) Cristóbal de las Casas and brush (p138) up on your skills at El Puente Campeche Pirate-themed Spanish Language School . cruises and a walled city full of (p227) swashbuckler legends makes for good family entertainment . Between beach-bumming and Family-Friendly (p194) scuba diving, squeeze in a few Trips hours of class at the Puerto Progreso A popular family Morelos Language Center . The land of theme beach destination, first and fore- Riviera Maya (p100) parks, swimming opportunities most because you can holiday galore and excellent diving . on the cheap here . (p173) Ask about very affordable (p97) homestays at the International House in Playa del Carmen . Plenty of water-related Cancún (p103) activities, hotels with kids’ clubs and tours geared toward Studying Spanish Once you’ve mastered Spanish, children . (p54) Take classes in the Yucatán’s take a Maya language course at Playa Lingua del Caribe in the The nearby cenotes cultural capital of Mérida at the Valladolid Riviera Maya . (p105) make a big splash with the little non-profitInstituto Benjamín Franklin . (p148) 24

Month by Month

6 Spring Break TOP EVENTS February Bust out that beer bong. Most university students Vernal Equinox, Temperatures rise get midterm break in March slightly and it stays March and Cancún is the Swimming with fairly dry. It’s still preferred destination – so Whale Sharks, June considered high season either join the party or but most destinations Carnaval, February head for the hills. have quietened down Día de Muertos, significantly. November 1 Vernal Equinox Mérida Fest, January z Día de la On the day of the spring Candelaría equinox (March 20) and about a week thereafter, Held on February 2, Can- thousands head to Chichén dlemas commemorates the January Itzá to witness the shadow presentation of Jesus in the formation of a serpent ap- The first week of January temple 40 days after his pear on the staircase of the is one of the busiest times birth; celebrated in many El Castillo pyramid. (p177) of the year, meaning hotel towns with processions, rates spike. Weather-wise, bullfights and dancing. it’s relatively cool. z Carnaval z Mérida Fest A big street bash preced- April This cultural event, run- ing the 40-day penance of One of the hottest and ning most of January Lent, Carnaval is usually in driest months of the year across the city, celebrates February or March. It’s fes- on the peninsula. Semana the founding of Mérida tively celebrated in Mérida, Santa brings out Mexican with art exhibits, concerts, Campeche and Isla Coz- tourists in droves as they plays and book presenta- umel with parades, music, look to cool off at the tions. dancing and fun. beach.

z Día de los Reyes z Semana Santa Magos Held throughout Holy Week (Three Kings’ Day) On March (starting on Palm Sunday, January 6, this is the day in March or April), solemn The thermometer rises when Mexican children processions move through a few notches in more traditionally receive gifts, the streets. On Good Friday ways than one as US rather than at Christmas. (Viernes Santo) there are spring breakers flock to A good place to be at this dramatic re-enactments of the peninsula for tequila- time is Tizimín. the Passion Play. fueled revelry. 25 z Feria de San for both Mexicans and Cristóbal foreigners so don’t be October Starting on Easter Sunday, surprised to find a lot of activity in tourist centers. Cooler climes and slightly the week-long Feria de la less rainfall. If you visit Primavera y de la Paz in z Fiesta de la during the last days of

San Cristóbal de las Casas TRIP YOUR PLAN Virgen del Carmen October and the first features art shows, song days of November it’s and dance, amusement For the last two weeks interesting to compare rides, bullfights, fireworks of July, the patron saint Halloween to Day of the and, of course, lots of food. of Ciudad del Carmen, Dead celebrations. Campeche, is taken on a journey over land and 6 Halloween across the harbor. The fiesta features artistic and Playa del Carmen is the M May cultural events and craft scene of a wild, all-night onth A scorcher of a month, shows. costume party that draws

more than its fair share of especially in Mérida by inebriated zombies.

where the daily high M

averages around 35°C. Not onth surprisingly, great hotel deals can be found. August Summer holiday season November z Feria del Cedral continues, as do the rains. The rainy season has On Isla Cozumel, the en- Inland spots tend to be sticky this time of year. passed and temperatures tertaining Feria del Cedral are subsiding. Some honors a group of Caste z Festival Jats’a Já accommodations drop War refugees who settled prices by as much as 50%. on the island in 1848. The Held the third weekend of fairgrounds have rides, ro- August in Mahahual, this z Día de Muertos deo events and you can see festival is a prayer offering (Day of the Dead; Novem- the time-honored ‘Dance of of sorts to the hurricane ber 2) Families build altars the Pigs’ Heads.’ (p90) gods. Traditional Maya dancing, art exhibits and in their homes and visit culinary events. graveyards to commune with their dead, taking garlands and gifts. Theme June park Xcaret in the Riviera It’s still very hot and it’s Maya arranges beautiful the beginning of hurricane September altars. (p102) season, which runs to The height of the hurricane November. Tourism slows season, though it shouldn’t down considerably. present a problem if you keep an eye out for alerts. December 2 Swimming with It’s also Mexico’s most patriotic month of the year. Nortes (northerly winds Whale Sharks that bring showers) are A good time to swim with z Día de la prevalent along the coast these gentle giants off the from November to January. coasts of Isla Holbox and Independencia The first two weeks of Isla Mujeres. (Independence Day; Sep- December are quiet on the tember 16) The anniversary peninsula ahead of the big of the start of Mexico’s War Christmas rush. of Independence in 1810. On the evening of the 15th, July the famous call to rebel- Expect warm, wet and lion is repeated from the humid weather. This is a balcony of every town hall summer holiday month in the land. INGRAM PUBLISHING / GETTY IMAGES © - - (p84), (p84), (p102) (p102) Xplor Playa del Car del Playa Isla Cozumel Cozumel Isla ún s l Cozume erto Canc É Pu Morelo # # • • Isla ## • • # •

É É É (p102). Playa, as it’s called, is a good good a is called, it’s as Playa, (p102). ## • • el # • You’ll definitely want to visit Maya Maya visit to want definitely You’ll r a d rmen If you’ve brought kids, head back to the the to back head kids, brought you’ve If parks theme the of one visit and mainland as such Playa, of south just rides. river-raft underground its with more a imagine to hard it’s and ruins to the beach, then browse for handmade handmade for browse then beach, the to artisans mar town’s small the craftsin beach-bumming so or day a Spend ket. uberchic in dining and men for point jumping-off amazingdivingand enjoy you’ll where island’s the on beaches quiet snorkeling, plaza. town pleasant a and side windswept ay NA É Ca Xplo O Pl TA RO IN m lu QU É - te Tu

# # • É • # • Gran Ceno

É É # # • • (p99) to duck out out duck to (p99) (p56), then hit hit then (p56), bá Co N TÁ Cancún YUCA Cancún & the Riviera Maya Riviera & the Cancún XICO PuertoMorelos

1 and 30km about south way your Make

WEEK

Itineraries Plan Your Trip Your Plan stop in in stop city over dinner and dancing. and dinner over city phire waters along the Zona Hotelera Hotelera Zona the along waters phire of zone) (hotel the of side other the see and downtown Get things started with a dip in the sap the in dip started things a Getwith Maya ruins and happening little beach ruins and happening little beach Maya sands. with sugar-white towns the way you’ll find fun-filled cenotes find fun-filled cenotes you’ll the way astonishing sinkholes), (limestone The road from Cancún to Cobá is chock is Cobá Cancún to from The road Along surprises. coast-hugging full of 26 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN I IE ARIES TINER

El Castillo, Tulum spectacular location than Tulum (p113), at Tulum’s north end). Once inside this where structures are perched atop a cliff archaeological site, rent a bicycle and mar- overlooking the Mexican Caribbean. While vel at jungle ruins connected by ancient at the site, take the stairs down to the paths. Before heading back to Tulum, have beach and have a refreshing swim to cool lunch at one of Cobá’s lakeside restaurants. off. Tulum’s town and its coastal Zona On the return, drop by the Gran Cenote Hotelera are destinations in their own (p120) for a little swimming and snorkeling right. Stay in a bungalow on the sand and action. at night paint the town red along the buzz- This easy 170km trip stays close to Can- ing main strip. cún and there’s frequent bus service to all With an early start, head for the Maya of these destinations, or just rent a car. ruins of Cobá (p120; find the road to Cobá 28

10 DAYS Maya Country

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN The architectural and artistic achievements of the Maya are prominently dotted across the peninsula. Though the ancient cities are long abandoned, the Maya people and their traditions are still very much present. One can spend weeks, even months, visiting all of the ruins, archaeological museums and I

IE ARIES TINER small Maya towns – this itinerary assumes you have a life to get back to.

For background, visit the shiny new Museo Maya de Cancún (p56) in the heart of the resort city’s Zona Hotelera. The price of admission includes access to the adjoining San Miguelito (p56) archaeological site, which features Maya ruins that were just recently unveiled. Hit the road the next day and spend a day or two in the colonial town of Valladolid (p184), a former Maya ceremonial center. For some respite from your Maya itinerary, drop by the Cenote Dzit- nup (p186) on your way out of town and take a plunge into a spectacular limestone sinkhole. Next up is must-see Chichén Itzá (p177), Maya ruins that were recently named one of the ‘new seven wonders of the world.’ Get an early start to beat the tour bus crowds. A route then leads to Oxkutzcab and Tekax, offering glimpses of traditional Maya life. While in Oxkutzcab, be sure to check out the nearby Grutas de Loltún (p164), the largest cave system on the peninsula. Move on to Santa Elena, Cancún

•# a fine base for exploring the impressive ruins É of (p159) and other archaeological sites Chichén Valladolid Uxmal

Itzá •#•# tucked away in the rolling Puuc hills. É •# Uxmal Cenote Dzitnup After crossing the Yucatán-Campeche border, •# •# Santa Elena •# •# Oxkutzcab É stop at p207 , where you can wit- •# Tekax Hopelchén ( ) •#

Campeche Grutas de Loltún ness the ancient arts of beekeeping and herbal É •# •# Hopelchén medicine. Make your way to the walled city É Edzná of Campeche (p196), a good base for visiting Edzná (p209), a formidable Maya site with a five-story temple. The peninsula’s south harbors É fascinating but scarcely visited remnants of classic Maya civilization in the vast Reserva

•#Reserva de la

É É Biosfera Calakmul de la Biosfera Calakmul (p215). Serious Maya buffs should visit the ruins of Palenque (p234)

Palenque •# and the contemporary Maya domain of San É BELIZE Cristóbal de las Casas (p223), both in Chiapas. GUATEMALA San Cristóbal Most destinations here are accessible by bus •# de las Casas MEXICO or shared transport vehicles, but for some, such as the Ruta Puuc ruins, you’ll need to hire a rental car or taxi, or go with a tour operator. 29 PHILIPPE COLOMBI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / COLOMBI PHILIPPE 10 DAYS Maya Country

The architectural and artistic achievements TRIP YOUR PLAN of the Maya are prominently dotted across the peninsula. Though the ancient cities are long abandoned, the Maya people and their traditions are still very much present. One can spend weeks, even months, visiting all of the ruins, archaeological museums and I

small Maya towns – this itinerary assumes ARIES TINER you have a life to get back to.

COSMO CONDINA / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / CONDINA COSMO in Oxkutzcab, be sure to check out the nearby Grutas de Loltún (p164), the largest cave system on the peninsula. Move on to Santa Elena, Cancún

•# a fine base for exploring the impressive ruins É of (p159) and other archaeological sites Chichén Valladolid Uxmal

•#Reserva de la

É É Biosfera Calakmul de la Biosfera Calakmul (p215). Serious Maya buffs should visit the ruins of Palenque (p234)

Palenque •# and the contemporary Maya domain of San É BELIZE Cristóbal de las Casas (p223), both in Chiapas. GUATEMALA San Cristóbal Most destinations here are accessible by bus •# de las Casas MEXICO or shared transport vehicles, but for some, such Top: Ruins, Palenque as the Ruta Puuc ruins, you’ll need to hire a Bottom: Folkloric dancers rental car or taxi, or go with a tour operator. 30 Off the Beaten Track: Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN SAN CRISANTO Palm groves; quiet, white-sand beaches; a few rustic cabins; and a Sisal Progreso pace so slow that mañana never comes – the ultimate escapist's Celestún MÉRIDA retreat. (p175) Umán Acanceh

I Bécal

IE ARIES TINER Ticul G u l f o f M e x i c o OXKUTZCAB

OXKUTZCAB BoloBolonchén de Rejón Most people are usually just passing through here before visiting the Campeche Hopelchén Grutas de Loltún, a sprawling nearby cave system. But checking out the Dzibalchén Champotón town's sights and regional cooking Xmaben certainly has it rewards if you're craving local flavor. (p168) Puerto Ciudad del Real Carmen EL TIGRE Río San P Xpujil Escárcega Comalcalco La Venta edro Candelaria Cárdenas Villahermosa Reforma Emiliano Zapata Catazajá Pichucalco Teapa Tenosique Palenque MEXICO

Ocozocoautla Soyalo Ocosingo San Cristóbal Frontera Corozal de Las Casas Bethel Tuxtla Chiapa Juiquipilas Gutiérrez Amatenango de Corzo del Valle MEXICO Arriaga Comitán Tonalá Puerto Arista GUATEMALA Boca del Cielo Pijijiapan EL TIGRE

Mapastepec These recently uncovered Maya ruins Escuintla set in wetlands see few visitors. It's believed to be none other than the Huixtla Tuxtla place where conquistador Hernan Chico P A C I F I C Córtes executed Cuauhtémoc, the Tapachula last Aztec ruler of Tenochtitlán. (p215) O C E A N Ciudad Hidalgo 31

0 200 km 0 120 miles

RÍO LAGARTOS RÍO LAGARTOS San TRIP YOUR PLAN Crisanto Chiquilá A biosphere reserve that's home to Cancún flamingos, river crocs, herons and Tizimín other fascinating creatures. It's reached from a laid-back fishing Izamal village far off the tourist track. (p190) Kantunil Puerto Morelos Cuzamá Playa del Valladolid Carmen I IE ARIES TINER San Miguel de Cozumel Tulum PUNTA ALLEN PUNTA ALLEN Santa Rosa Prepare yourself for a four-hour, transmission-grinding road trip to this small fishing village, but all is Felipe Carrillo forgiven once you settle into a hotel Puerto on the quiet beach here. (p124) PUNTA HERRERO MEXICO Nohbec PUNTA HERRERO At the end of a long, bumpy dirt road, DZIBANCHÉ Mahahual this remote fishing village sits pretty between the Caribbean Sea and the Chetumal lush Sian Ka'an jungle. It makes for a CENOTES great day trip from Mahahual. (p129) MIGUEL Xcalak COLORADO C A R I B B E A N S E A

DZIBANCHÉ This archaeological site is out of the way and you'll need a car to get here, but the precious country scenery along the road makes it all worthwhile. Inside, it's usually just you, the ruins and the iguanas. (p136)

CENOTES MIGUEL BELIZE COLORADO A 10km potholed road leads to the village of Miguel Colorado, where you can set out on a hike along rocky trails to reach two wonderfully scenic cenotes (limestone sinkholes). Swimming is prohibited but you can take a kayak out. (p215)

HONDURAS 32

Colorful fish, Cancún (p56) Plan Your Trip Diving & Snorkeling The Mexican Caribbean is world famous for its wonderful coral reefs and translucent waters full of tropical fish, and without a doubt diving and snorkeling are the area’s top activity draw. Add cenote (limestone sinkhole) dives to the mix and you truly have one of the most intriguing dive destinations on the planet. 33 PLAN YOUR TRIP Diving & Snorkeling - - -

Cozumel:Diving guide. guide. The Banco Chinchorro (p129), a sprawl a (p129), Chinchorro Banco The Cancún of park marine national the In For more on what Cozumel has to offer, offer, to has Cozumel what on more For Although Cozumel was hammered by by hammered was Cozumel Although area, this to heading diver a you’re If nado Jason deCaires Taylor. Built to divert divert to Built Taylor. deCaires Jason nado reefs, coral deteriorating from away divers fea museum aquatic one-of-a-kind this waters the in sculptures life-size 403 tures artificial The Mujeres. Isla and Cancún of 28ft, of depth a at submerged are reefs ing vacation. vacation. ing Quintana southern the off atoll coral ing Hurricane by pounded coast, was Roo has government the but 2007, in Dean the that so sites dive new designated to Home recover. can areas hardest-hit biosphere the species, coral 90 than more visitors fewer gets Chinchorro of reserve Mujeres, Isla and Cozumel of reefs the than option attractive more much a makingit rays, see can you Here divers. serious for sponges. giant and conch eels, and snorkeling new interesting an there’s MUSA the as known divingattraction museum sculpture underwater an (p57), divingaficio artist and British by created Reef and Palancar Gardens are well worth well are Gardens Palancar and Reef out check to willwant Snorkelers visiting. de Miguel San of town the near Dzul-Há, the on Shallows Colombia and Cozumel, side. south island’s Planet’s Lonely out check Snorkeling & Other Diving Spots that know to happy willbe divers Serious all enjoyed be to dives great are there Yucatán the of coast eastern the along Puerto Mujeres, Isla Cancún, Peninsula. and Mahahual Carmen, del Playa Morelos, div a plan to places prime all are Xcalak So what can you see? Imposing drop-off Imposing see? you can what So black eels, turtles,moray sea reefs, wall parrotfish, rainbow barracuda, grouper, anemones. Caribbean giant and coral large in Wilma) and (Emily hurricanes two reefs, diveable island’s the of most 2005, remained ones, deeper the of all and the was it Unsurprisingly, unharmed. but hit; hardest were that sites snorkeling the of efforts tireless the thanks to livelihood (whose divingcommunity local to and reefs) the of health the on depends amazingecosystem, this of resilience the normal. to returned have things Sur Punta Wall, Rosa Santa Cozumel’s

. . . Best of all, rarely will you you will rarely all, of Best . From June to September September June to From . The amazing sights are sure to to sure are amazing sights The . Drift diving is the norm in Cozumel – Cozumel in norm the Drift divingis far and wide. and far the like nothing there’s say divers local water the through gliding of sensation currents. strong the carriedby you’re as pilgrimage site of the Maya and little more more little and Maya the of site pilgrimage until up community fishing small a than its and Cozumel today 1950s, late the from divers draw reefs rich astoundingly Isla Cozumel in destination dive one only visit can you If world underwater wonderful the Mexico, a Once bet. best your is Cozumel Isla of Diving Isla Mujeres’ sites appeal to both novice and novice both to appeal sites Isla Mujeres’ divers advanced whale sharks with 15-ton snorkel can you Isla Mujeres shark reefs, shallow snorkeler-friendly With museum, sculpture underwater and an caves The largest coral atoll in the northern hemi atoll coral The largest a glorious boasts Chinchorro Banco sphere, ships wrecked of world fantasy underwater reefs and colorful at Chinchorro sites dive find crowded keep even the most experienced diver in a diver experienced the most even keep awe of state constant Banco Chinchorro Hands down Mexico’s most popular scuba- most Mexico’s Hands down high praise gets Cozumel diving location, of variety wide and visibility excellent its for marine life Best Dives Dives Best Isla Cozumel

LUIS JAVIER SANDOVAL / GETTY IMAGES © 34

making them ideal for snorkelers and first- © IMAGES GETTY / DOVALA JOE time divers.

Cenote Dives When you find yourself yawning at the

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN green morays, eagle rays, dolphins, sea turtles, nurse sharks and multitudinous tropical fish, you’re ready to dive a cenote (a deep limestone sinkhole containing water). Hook up with a reputable dive shop and prepare for (in the immortal words of Monty Python) ‘something completely different.’ The Maya saw cenotes as gateways D

iving to the underworld. You’ll be lucky if you see four fish on a typical cenote dive. Trade brilliance for & S & darkness, blue for black, check that your

norkeling regulator is working flawlessly and enter a world unlike anything you’ve ever dived before. Soar around stalactites and stalag- mites, hover above cake-frosting-like formations and glide around tunnels that will make you think you’re in outer space. Keep in mind that these are fragile environments. Avoid applying sunscreen or insect repellent right before entering. Use care when approaching, entering or exit- Coral reef, Isla Cozumel (p84) ing, as the rocks are often slippery. Loud noises, such as yelling, disturb bats and Be very careful when cenote diving: it other creatures – though most people find can be an extremely dangerous activity, themselves subdued by the presence in especially when done in caves. A good rule these caverns. In rare cases, tourists have of thumb is to go with a professional been seriously injured or killed by climbing local diver who has knowledge of the cave on the roots or stalactites. system. And above all, do not attempt cave diving without proper training.

WHEN TO GO Generally, you can dive year-round in the Yucatán, but when planning your Snorkeling trip you should take into account a Many spots on the Yucatán’s Caribbean few weather considerations: side make for fine snorkeling. The best ¨¨From November through January, sites are generally reached by boat, but the the peninsula gets northerly winds areas near Akumal, Isla Mujeres and and showers known as nortes. In Cozumel all offer pretty decent Cozumel they can blow so strongly beach-accessed spots. In Cozumel, you’ll that the harbormaster closes ports find some of the most popular snorkeling – sometimes for days. While this sites along the western shore. won’t affect the ferry between Inland you can snorkel in some of the Cozumel and Playa del Carmen, it Yucatán’s famed cenotes. Some places rent can wreck diving plans. gear, but when in doubt take your own. ¨¨From June to November, keep Snorkeling with whale sharks has a watchful eye out for hurricane become very popular in recent years. Just alerts. about all of the dive shops in Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox offer whale-shark tours. Just make sure before signing up that 35 LUIS JAVIER SANDOVAL / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / SANDOVAL JAVIER LUIS PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN D iving & S & norkeling

Green sea turtle

the tour operator abides by responsible ¨¨Be conscious of your fins . Even without practices recommended by the World Wild- contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef life Fund. Only three swimmers (including can damage delicate organisms . Take care not to your guide) are allowed in the water at a kick up clouds of sand, which can smother them . time. Also, you are not allowed to touch ¨¨Practice and maintain proper buoyancy these gentle giants, and you must wear control and avoid over-weighting . Major damage either a life jacket or wetsuit to ensure you can be done by divers descending too fast and do not dive below the shark. colliding with the reef . ¨¨Take great care in underwater caves . Spend as little time in them as possible as your air bubbles may be caught within the roof and Responsible Diving & thereby leave organisms high and dry . Take Snorkeling turns to inspect the interior of a small cave . ¨¨Resist the temptation to collect or buy corals Remember that coral reefs and other mar- or shells or to loot marine archaeological sites ine ecosystems are particularly fragile (mainly shipwrecks) . environments. Consider the following tips when diving and help preserve the ecology ¨¨Ensure that you take home all your rubbish and beauty of the reefs: and any litter you may find as well . Plastics in particular are a serious threat to marine life . ¨¨Never use anchors on the reef, and take care not to ground boats on coral . ¨¨Do not feed the fish . In doing so you may be encouraging aggressive behavior or giving them ¨¨Avoid touching or standing on living marine food that may be harmful to their health . organisms or dragging equipment across the reef . Polyps can be damaged by even the ¨¨Minimize your disturbance of marine animals . gentlest contact . If you must hold on to the reef, Never ride on the backs of turtles . only touch exposed rock or dead coral . 36

KAREN DOODY / STOCKTREK IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / IMAGES STOCKTREK / DOODY KAREN ¨¨If scuba diving, carry a current diving- certification card from a recognized instruction agency . ¨¨Regardless of skill level, you should be in good condition and know your physical limitations .

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ¨¨If you don’t have your own equipment, ask to see the dive shop’s before you commit . Also, make sure you feel comfortable with your dive master . ¨¨Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions at the dive site from a reputable local dive operation, and ask how locally trained divers deal with these D

iving considerations . ¨¨Be aware of local laws, regulations and

& S & etiquette about marine life and the environment . ¨ Dive only at sites within your level of norkeling ¨ experience: if available, engage the services of a competent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master . ¨¨Avoid decompression sickness by diving no less than 18 hours prior to a high-altitude flight . ¨¨Know the locations of the nearest decompression chambers and emergency phone numbers . Diver, Yucatán cenote ¨¨Find out if your dive shop has up-to-date certification from PADI (www .padi .com), NAUI (www .naui .org) or the internationally recognized Safety Mexican diving organization FMAS (www .fmas . Most dive shops expect that you have your com .mx) . own equipment. If you do rent diving gear, ¨¨Always put safety above cost considerations – check that it’s up to standard. Before in the spirit of competition, some dive shops embarking on a scuba-diving or snorkeling offer great deals but as the wise old saying goes, trip, consider the following tips to ensure a sometimes you get what you pay for . safe and enjoyable experience: 37 KEREN SU / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / SU KEREN

Casa del Adivino (p159), Uxmal Plan Your Trip Exploring Maya Ruins When you think about it, the Maya accomplished absolutely remarkable feats. Not only did they pull off some pretty sophisticated architecture, but they also made mind-blowing contributions to mathematics, astronomy and art. The cities they left behind remind us of their brilliance and are most certainly a top highlight of the Yucatán. 38 Among the Maya’s many accomplish- ments was the development of a complex writing system, partly pictorial, partly Planning Your Trip phonetic, with 300 to 500 symbols. They also refined a calendar used by other pre- When to Go Hispanic peoples into a tool for the exact PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN The best time of year to visit archaeological recording and forecasting of earthly and sites is from November to April, when the heavenly events. Temples were aligned to peninsula has cooler climes and is generally enhance observation of the heavens, help- dry . Keep in mind, though, that this is also ing the Maya predict solar eclipses and high season, meaning you’ll be dealing with movements of the moon and Venus. large crowds unless you arrive early in the The Maya also believed in predestina- morning . tion and developed a complex astrology.

E To win the gods’ favor they carried out xploring Where to Stay elaborate rituals involving dances, feasts, Tulum makes a great base for visiting both sacrifices, consumption of the alcoholic the Tulum archaeological site and Cobá . For drink balché, and bloodletting. the ruins of Chichén Itzá and Ek’ Balam, con- They believed the current world to be

M sider staying in colonial Valladolid . Many folks just one of a succession of worlds, and the

aya who go to Palenque use San Cristóbal de las cyclical nature of their calendrical system Casas as a jumping-off point . An overnight in enabled them to predict the future by look- R Campeche is convenient for getting an early ing at the past. uins start at Edzná, and the tranquil town of Santa Elena works as a nice little hub for exploring the Ruta Puuc, Kabah and Uxmal .

What to See Top Museums So many interesting sites, so little time . The following museums provide interest- Definite must-sees include Chichén Itzá, ing background that’s often missing from Palenque, Tulum, Uxmal and Calakmul . some of the archaeological sites. ¨¨Museo Maya de Cancún This new museum What to Take houses one of Mexico’s most important Maya Ensure you have comfortable walking shoes, collections . The adjoining San Miguelito a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water . Oh, and archaeological site contains more than a dozen don’t forget that camera . restored Maya structures and an 8m-high pyramid . The entrance fee for the museum includes access to San Miguelito . (p56) ¨¨Gran Museo del Mundo Maya Adding to Mérida’s rich cultural tradition, this shiny new Amazing Maya museum showcases more than 500 Maya artifacts . Permanent and temporary exhibits Classic Maya (AD 250–900), seen by many focus on all things Maya, from culture and art to experts as the most glorious civilization of science and Maya cosmovision . There’s a free pre-Hispanic America, flourished in three nightly light-and-sound show here too . (p148) areas: ¨¨Museo Arqueológico de Campeche Set in an North The low-lying Yucatán Peninsula . old fortress, this museum exhibits pieces from Central The Petén forest of Guatemala and the the Maya sites of Calakmul and Edzná . Stunning adjacent lowlands in Chiapas and Tabasco in jade jewelry and exquisite vases, masks and Mexico (to the west) and Belize (to the east) . plates are thematically arranged in 10 halls; the star attractions are the jade burial masks from South Highland Guatemala and a small section Calakmul . (p200) of Honduras . ¨¨Museo de la Cultura Maya Chetumal’s pride and joy illustrates the Maya’s calendrical system, It was in the northern and central areas among other intriguing exhibits . It’s organized that the Maya blossomed most brilliantly, into three levels, mirroring Maya cosmology . attaining groundbreaking heights of artis- The main floor represents this world; the upper tic and architectural expression. 39

floor the heavens; the lower floor Xibalbá, the © IMAGES GETTY / CHEADLE CHRIS underworld . Try to visit here before seeing the nearby sites of Kohunlich and Dzibanché . (p134) PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Practicalities ¨¨Admission to the Yucatán’s archaeological sites ranges from free to M$182; children under 13 often cost a fraction of the adult entrance fee . Nightly light-and-sound shows at Chichén Itzá and Uxmal are included in the cost of admission if you retain your ticket stub . E xploring ¨¨Opening hours at most major sites are 8am to 5pm . ¨¨Drink lots of water and bring protection

against the sun . Insect repellant keeps the M mosquitoes away when visiting jungle sites . aya ¨¨Explanatory signs may be in Spanish only, or both Spanish and English . Audio translators are R available at Chichén Itzá and Uxmal (M$39) . uins ¨¨Multilingual guides offer one- to two-hour tours (from M$400 to M$600) . Official tour- guide rates are posted at the entrances of some sites; legit guides carry government-issued badges . Nohoch Mul (p120), Cobá ¨¨Seldom-visited sites have no food or water available; pack a lunch or stop off for a meal or supplies along the way . Resources ¨¨Avoid midday visits when the sun is beating The following books and organizations down and tourists are out in full force . provide a wealth of information on Maya history and culture.

SITES AT A GLANCE

SITE PERIOD HIGHLIGHTS Chichén Itzá approx AD 100-1400 El Castillo pyramid, Mexico’s biggest ball court, El Caracol observatory, Cenote Sagrado Uxmal AD 600-900 pyramids, palaces, riotous sculpture featuring masks of rain god Chac Tulum AD 1200-1550 temples and towers overlooking the Caribbean Sea Calakmul approx AD 1-900 high pyramids with views over rainforest Cobá AD 600-1100 towering pyramids in jungle setting Kabah AD 750-950 Palace of the Masks with nearly 300 Chac masks Ruta Puuc AD 750-950 three sites (Sayil, Xlapak, Labná), palaces with elaborate columns & sculpture, including Chac masks Edzná 600 BC-AD 1500 five-story pyramid-palace, Temple of the Masks Becán 550 BC-AD 1000 towered temples Xpujil flourished AD 700-800 three-towered ancient ‘skyscraper’ Ek’ Balam approx AD 600-800 huge Acrópolis & high pyramid with unusual carving Dzinbanché approx 200 BC-AD 1200 semiwild site with palaces & pyramids Kohunlich AD 100-600 Temple of the Masks 40 MIGUEL VASQUEZ / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / VASQUEZ MIGUEL PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN E xploring M aya R uins

El Castillo (p177), Chichén Itzá

¨Ïncidents of Travel in Yucatán A travelogue important ancient Maya kingdoms, by Simon written by American explorer John Lloyd Martin and Nikolai Grube . Stephens documenting the Maya sites he visited ¨¨Maya Exploration Center (www . with English artist Frederick Catherwood in the mayaexploration .org) A Maya-specific nonprofit mid-19th century . organization offering education programs, tours ¨Ïnstituto Nacional de Antropología e and study abroad courses . Historia (INAH; www .inah .gob .mx) The website of Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History offers virtual tours of its sites and museums, practical information for visiting the ruins, and details of the historical significance of Behind the Names each site . Most of it is in Spanish . ¨¨Chichén Itzá (mouth of the well of the Itzaes) ¨¨Mesoweb (www .mesoweb .com) A great, The ancient Maya city was built around a well diverse resource that focuses on the ancient known today as the ‘sacred cenote ’. cultures of Mexico; specializes in the Maya . ¨¨Tulum (wall) Refers to the stone walls that ¨Än Archaeological Guide to Central and once protected the city . The original Maya name, Southern Mexico Joyce Kelly’s book was Zamá, has been translated as ‘dawn’ or ‘sunrise ’. published in 2001 and is still the best of its kind, ¨¨Calakmul (adjacent mounds) Dubbed as such covering 70 sites . by US botanist Cyrus Lundell when he first come ¨Ärchaeology of Ancient Mexico and across the hidden jungle ruins in the 1930s . Central America: An Encyclopedia An excellent ¨¨Palenque (palisade) The Spanish name has reference book by Susan Toby Evans and David no relation to the city’s ancient name, Lakamha, L Webster incorporating recent discoveries and which means ‘big water’ and probably refers to scholarship . the area’s springs, streams and waterfalls . ¨¨Chronicle of the Maya Kings and Queens ¨Üxmal (thrice built) Alludes to how many Looks at the dynasties and rulers of the most times the city was built, though it was actually constructed five times . 41 SEAN CAFFREY / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / CAFFREY SEAN LIFE AFTER THE APOCALYPSE We’re happy to report all is well in Maya country. As you may have heard, some folks were predicting

the end of the world on December TRIP YOUR PLAN 21, 2012, when the Maya long-count calendrical cycle came to an end, yet the date actually signaled the beginning of a new bak’ tun (about a 400- year period). Despite all the media hype focus- ing on doomsday scenarios, some E

good came out of all the attention: in xploring the year leading up to that December day, federal and state governments were spending some serious pesos

on new Maya-themed museums and M sites. The 2012 Mundo Maya pro- aya gram, for instance, was a campaign

devoted exclusively to promoting all R

things Maya. Now that the so-called uins apocalypse event has come and gone, archaeologists can only keep their fingers crossed that all the renewed interest in ancient and mod- Stone carving, Palenque (p234) ern Maya culture will lead to more funding for ongoing research and excavations. Tours If you don’t have a car, tours are especially ¨¨Turitransmérida This Mérida-based tour convenient when you’re pressed for time or operator goes to Ruta Puuc, Dzibilchaltún, find that a site is difficult to reach by bus. Chichén Itzá, Kabah and Uxmal . Tours include Youth hostels in the Yucatán often provide transportation, a meal and guide . For Ruta Puuc, the most affordable tour services and they a four-person minimum is required . (p149) usually welcome non-guests. Here are ¨¨Community Tours Sian Ka’an This Maya- some excellent tour operators: run ecotourism outfit will take you on a guided ¨¨Nomadas Hostel Does day trips from Mérida walk of the interpretive trail at the Muyil to Uxmal, Chichén Itzá and Kabah . Tours include archaeological site, south of Tulum . (p115) transportation and guide, but you’ll have to ¨¨Ecoturismo Yucatán One-day excursions cover entrance fees . (p148) to Chichén Itzá and Uxmal include entrance ¨¨Mundo Joven This Cancún hostel/agency runs fees, guide and lunch . The owners of this tour day trips to Chichén Itzá and Tulum . Both tours operator are passionate about both sharing and offer guide, transportation, entry and one meal; protecting the state’s natural treasures . (p149) the Chichén Itzá excursion stops at a cenote (limestone sinkhole) to take a dip . (p58) 42

Plan Your Trip Travel with Children Snorkeling in caves, playing on the beach, hiking in the jungle… kids will find plenty of ways to keep busy in the Yucatán. And, as with elsewhere in Mexico, children take center stage – with few exceptions, children are welcome at all kinds of hotels and in virtually every cafe and restaurant.

Best Regions for Kids Riviera Maya The Yucatán for Kids If you’re planning on visiting the Yucatán’s famed Getting Around theme parks, this is the region; the parks can Watching scenery go by doesn’t go over burn a hole in your pocket and some have a very too well with most kids, so try to do your Disneyesque quality, but even grown-ups can have traveling between towns in smallish a blast at these places . chunks of a few hours. Most Mexican buses show nonstop movies on video screens, Cancún which diverts kids above toddler age, Cancún was made with children in mind . From and most of the movies are pretty family- pirate-ship cruises and hotels with kids’ clubs to a friendly. Children under 13 pay half-price wide offering of water-related activities and tours, on many long-distances buses, and if boredom is not an option (especially if mom and they’re small enough to sit on your lap, dad are willing spenders) . they usually go for free. If you’re traveling with a baby or a toddler, consider invest- Isla Mujeres ing in deluxe buses for the extra space and With its shallow and swimmable beaches, several comfort. marine amusement parks and snorkeling oppor- Car rental is a practical alternative to tunities galore, Isla Mujeres is a big hit with kids . buses. If you need a child-safety seat, the Oh yeah, Isla Contoy is nearby, which means yet major international car-rental firms are another fun-filled boating and snorkeling op . the most reliable providers. You will probably have to pay a few dollars extra per day. Car seats are compulsory for children under five. Of course, some forms of traveling are fun – there are boat trips of many kinds to be had, bicycles, ATVs (all terrain vehicles) and horses to be rented for outings.

Health & Safety Children are more easily affected than adults by heat, disrupted sleeping patterns 43

PLANNING

¨¨Cots for hotel rooms and high chairs for restaurants are available mainly in midrange and top-end establishments. ¨¨It’s usually not hard to find an inexpensive babysitter – ask at your hotel. Some PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN top-end hotels provide the service at an additional cost. ¨¨Diapers (nappies) are widely available, but if you depend on some particular cream, lotion, baby food or medicine, bring it with you. ¨¨It’s a good idea to book some accommodations for at least the first couple of nights, even if you plan to be flexible once you’ve arrived. ¨¨When booking a room, make sure that the establishment accepts children –

some are adults-only. T AVEL R ¨¨Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children has lots of practical advice on the subject, drawn from firsthand experience.

with and strange food. Be particularly careful Family rooms are widely available, and that they don’t drink tap water or consume many hotels will put an extra bed or two in C any questionable food or beverage. Take a room at little or no extra cost. However, hildren care to avoid sunburn, cover them up baby cots may not be available in budget against insect bites, and ensure you re- accommodations. You can find a room place fluids if a child gets diarrhea. with air-conditioning nearly everywhere, See a doctor about vaccinations at least and most midrange and top-end hotels one month – preferably two – before your have wi-fi access and child-friendly chan- trip. Once there, don’t hesitate to go to a nels on the TV and/or DVD players for doctor if you think it may be necessary. In when your kids just need to flop down in general, privately run hospitals and clin- front of something entertaining. ics offer better facilities and care than the public ones. Make sure you have adequate Eating travel insurance that will cover the cost of The Yucatán has plenty of eateries serving private medical care. up international comfort food should Mex- Child safety provisions in Mexico may ican fare not sit well with your children. be less strict than what you’re accustomed Along the Riviera Maya you’ll find many to. Check out things like toddler pools, Italian-owned establishments preparing cribs, guardrails and even toys so that pizzas and pastas, while in gringo-friendly you’re aware of any potential hazards. Cancún, there are so many restaurants Breast-feeding in public is not common doing burgers and the like that it’ll seem in the Yucatán. like you never left home. Yucateco antojitos (snacks) such as sopa de lima (which tastes Sleeping like chicken soup with a twist of lime) The peninsula has an exciting variety of and salbutes (lightly fried tortillas topped different places to stay that should please with shredded poultry and other fixings) most kids – anything beachside is usually are fairly neutral options for trying local a good start, and rustic cabañas (cabins) flavors. provide a sense of adventure (but choose The closer you are to tourist centers, the one with good mosquito nets). better chance you have of finding more Many hotels have a rambling layout and diverse and child-friendly menus. When a good amount of open-air space – court- all else fails, most large cities have famil- yards, pool areas, gardens – allowing for iar fast-food joints. If your child doesn’t some light exploring by kids. The most take to experimenting, consider packing a family-oriented hotels, with expansive lunch when visiting small towns where the grounds and facilities such as shallow eating options may be somewhat limited. pools, playgrounds and kids clubs, tend to The spacious open-air character of many be found in the big resorts. Yucatán eateries conveniently means that children aren’t compelled to sit nicely at 44

UNDER-18 AIR TRAVELERS To conform with regulations to prevent international child abduction, minors (people aged under 18) traveling to Mexico without one or both of their parents may need to carry a notarized consent form signed by the absent parent or parents,

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN giving permission for the young traveler to make the international journey. Though Mexico does not specifically require this documentation, airlines flying to Mexico may refuse to board passengers without it. In the case of divorced parents, a cus- tody document may be required. If one or both parents are dead, or the traveler has only one legal parent, a death certificate or notarized statement of the situation may be required. These rules are aimed primarily at visitors from the US and Canada but may also

T apply to people from elsewhere. Procedures vary from country to country; contact AVEL R your country’s foreign affairs department and/or a Mexican consulate to find out exactly what you need to do. Forms for the purposes required are usually available from these authorities.

with

C the table all the time. Some restaurants Inland Fun hildren even have play areas or small pools to keep kids busy. ¨¨Selvática Award-winning zip-line circuit through jungle near Cancún, with its own cenote (limestone sinkhole) for swimming . (p102) ¨¨Cobá This jungle-surrounded ancient Maya site near Tulum has pyramids, a zip line and Children’s Highlights bicycles for pedaling around the network of dirt Apart from the ruins, beaches and swim- trails . (p121) ming pools, you’ll find excellent special ¨¨Aktun Chen Near Akumal, this park features attractions such as amusement and water a 60m-long cave, a 12m-deep cenote, 10 zip lines parks, zoos, aquariums and other fun and a small zoo . (p102) places on the peninsula. Kids can also enjoy activities such as snorkeling, riding ¨¨Boca del Puma Zip-lining, horseback riding, bicycles and boats, and watching wildlife. wall climbing and a cenote to dip into, near Archaeological sites can be fun if your kids Puerto Morelos . (p99) are into climbing pyramids and exploring ¨¨Hidden Worlds Four-hour adventure tours tunnels. that combine up to six activities, including snorkeling in a cenote, rapelling into a cave and Water Worlds soaring above the jungle on a zip line . (p112) ¨¨Spot crocodiles and whale sharks Boat tours at Isla Holbox (p73) and Río Lagartos Animal Encounters (p190) . ¨¨Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm Has hundreds ¨¨Sail on a pirate ship A replica Spanish of sea turtles, both big and small, plus an galleon stages nightly swashbuckler battles off aquarium . The staff is very friendly and will the waters of Cancún (p60) and pirate ships sail take the time to explain how and why the farm in Campeche, too (p199) . protects the turtles (p77) . ¨¨Snorkel in the Caribbean Many beaches ¨¨Parque Zoológico del Centenario Park in on the Yucatán’s Caribbean coast provide calm Mérida with lions, bears, an aviary, playground, waters and colorful marine life for beginners . bumper boats and much more . (p147) ¨¨Swim and explore Visitors make their way ¨¨Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Celestún A boat through underground rivers and caves at theme tour through the mangroves of Ría Celestún, park Xcaret in the Riviera Maya (p102) . home to flamingos and harpy eagles . (p170) ¨¨Cruise the jungle Reach the ancient cities ¨¨Crococun Zoo Visitors can interact with the of Yaxchilán by an adventurous river boat trip animals, such as spider monkeys, at this petting (p240) . zoo near Puerto Morelos . You can also get an up-close look at the crocs . (p60) 45 JUANMONINO / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / JUANMONINO

Conchinita pibil (suckling pig) Plan Your Trip Eat & Drink Like a Local The Yucatán is an endless feast of traditional flavors, fresh fish and seafood, and an eclectic mix of international cuisine. The wonderfully unique tastes you’ll encounter on the peninsula leave absolutely no doubt: folks in this corner of Mexico are passionate about food. 46 Cheap Treats You’ll find the best cheap eats at market stalls, street stands, cafes and cocinas The Year in Food económicas (affordable eateries). Keep March in mind that some budget options have

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN The Cancún-Riviera Maya Wine & sketchy hygiene standards, so it can be a Food Festival (www crmfest. com). draws bit of a crapshoot (no pun intended). celebrity chefs from Mexico and abroad; a ¨¨El Paisano del 23, Cancún The famous good chance to sample Mexican wines and pierna tortas (pork sandwiches) have been a gourmet dishes . local fave for more than 40 years; get there early . (p61) July to March ¨¨La Socorrito, Mérida This hole-in-the-wall

E You can get lobster year-round on the coast market eatery has been perfecting cochinita at but this is the time of year when fisherfolk (slow-cooked pork) for six decades . (p152) & D & are bringing in fresh catches daily . ¨¨Los Aguachiles, Playa del Carmen Artfully

rink prepared tostadas (fried tortillas) with fresh fish August and seafood in a cantina-like setting . (p107)

L The Jats’a Já festival in Mahahual celebrates ¨¨Tierradentro, San Cristóbal de las Casas ike the town’s fishing tradition with culinary Run by Zapatista supporters, this cafe keeps exhibits and Maya ceremonies right on the

a it real with affordable and delicious set meals .

L beach . (p231) ocal October to November Pibipollo (chicken tamales) are cooked Dare to Try underground for Day of the Dead festivities in ¨¨Pickled pigs feet, snout and ears in Mérida’s many cities throughout the peninsula . sprawling Mercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez (p151) . November ¨¨The four-alarm habanero chili salsas at Tacos The Taste of Playa International Food Festival de Cochinita Chepe’s (p133) in Laguna Bacalar . (www tasteofplaya. com). is held on Playa del ¨ Lionfish at Sulumar (p130) in the southern Carmen’s main plaza on the last Saturday of ¨ Quintana Roo beach town of Mahahual – hold November with Riviera Maya chefs offering the venom please! samples of their latest creations .

Local Specialties Food Experiences Food is a tremendous source of pride on Meals of a Lifetime the peninsula and the origins of some of the most popular dishes can easily become ¨¨La Chaya Maya, Mérida Extraordinary a topic of hot debate. We’ve broken down yucateco fare in a precious downtown colonial what’s on offer in each state, but you’ll building . (p152) definitely find variations of the following ¨¨Cetli, Tulum Sophisticated take on Mexican dishes across state lines. classics in a homey backstreet restaurant . (p118) Yucatán State ¨¨La Cueva del Chango, Playa del Carmen ¨¨Cochinita/pollo pibil Suckling pig or chicken Superb and surprisingly affordable Mexican marinated in citrus juices and achiote (a spice dishes in a jungly setting . (p107) made from annatto seed) . When done properly, ¨¨El Merkadito, Puerto Morelos Fish and cochinita is slow-cooked in an underground pit . seafood done right, plus ocean views . (p101) ¨¨Sopa de lima Soup with shredded turkey or ¨¨La Fuente, Campeche Waterfront cafe chicken, lime and tortilla strips . does local faves like pibipollo (chicken tamales) cooked underground . (p213) 47

¨¨Papadzules Diced hard-boiled eggs wrapped © IMAGES GETTY / MCLEAN PAM in corn tortilla and topped with pumpkin seed and tomato sauces . ¨¨Queso relleno A hollowed-out ball of Edam cheese stuffed with ground pork and smothered in tomato sauce and gravy . PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ¨¨Panuchos Fried tortilla filled with beans and topped with chicken, lettuce, tomato and pickled red onion .

Quintana Roo ¨¨Lobster A popular menu item in Cancún and other coastal towns . Some restaurants prepare E at it in guajillo (a type of chili pepper) and tamarind & D & sauces, giving it a very distinct Mexican taste .

¨¨Fish and shrimp tacos Beer-battered fish rink and shrimp are topped with shredded cabbage and the salsas of your choice . They’re fast, L cheap and highly addictive . ike

¨¨Ceviche Raw fish or seafood marinated in lime a L

juice and spices and served with tostadas . Ceviche ocal and cerveza (beer) are a winner on a warm day . ¨¨Fusion With so many Americans, Italians and other transplants living in these parts, you get some interesting blends of international and Mexican cuisine . Maya dish of shrimp, peppers and goat cheese

¨¨Chocolomo A hearty stew made of beef, Campeche kidneys, brain, tongue, liver etc . You get the ¨¨Pibipollo Chicken and pork tamales cooked point – nothing goes to waste . underground and usually wrapped in banana leaves; a popular Day of the Dead dish . Chiapas ¨¨Coffee Optimal growing conditions (high altitude, good climate, rich soil) produce some DABBLE IN THE CULINARY of the finest coffee in the country . ARTS ¨¨Tamales If you haven’t tried a tamale with the Take a cooking course to find out aromatic hoja santa herb, wrapped in a banana about the ingredients and techniques leaf, you’re missing something truly special . that go into Mexican cooking. Some recommended schools: ¨¨Los Dos In Mérida, focuses strictly on yucateco cuisine. Take a How to Eat & Drink cooking course with a market tour, attend a tasting class, or go for a When to Eat multiday, all-inclusive culinary work- ¨¨Desayuno (breakfast) Usually consists shop. (p148) of fresh fruit, pan dulce (sweet bread) or egg ¨¨Little Mexican Cooking School dishes; served between 8am and 11am in In Puerto Morelos, gives a general restaurants and cafes . overview of regional Mexican cui- ¨¨Almuerzo (light lunch) Locals tend to take sine. You’ll learn how to prepare a light lunch when they’ve missed breakfast or seven to eight dishes, plus some are just looking for something to hold them over background on the culture and tradi- until la comida, the big meal of the day . tions behind the food. (p99) 48 JUANMONINO / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / JUANMONINO PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN E at & D & rink L ike

a L ocal

Street food Cancún-style

¨¨La comida (heavy lunch) From 2pm to 5pm . ¨¨Cocina Económica These affordable eateries Many establishments offer gut-busting four- specialize in home-style cooking, plus they’re course meals . Shops can close between these great spots to mingle with locals . hours, especially in smaller towns . ¨¨Taquería Taco shops are the perfect late- ¨¨La cena (supper) Some people like to grab night option and the food is always cheap if a light dinner, between 8pm and 11pm, before you’re looking to pinch some pesos . hitting the bars and clubs; it’s also a popular ¨¨Mercado Many markets have a cluster of food hour for munching tacos or pan dulce . stalls preparing decent and reasonably priced local dishes . Where to Eat ¨¨Cafe Coffee shops are a good breakfast ¨¨Restaurante Restaurants offer the widest option when you have an early start . variety in terms of menu items, price ranges and ¨¨Puesto Street stalls whip up everything from hours; most are family-friendly establishments tacos to ceviche cocktails . Opening hours vary and they’re usually your best shot at finding considerably; some work mornings, others keep vegetarian options . night hours .

EATING PRICE INDICATORS Menu Decoder ¨¨Menú del día/comida corrida Affordable set In this guide we define a main dish in menu with three or four courses . a restaurant as: Budget ($) less than M$80 ¨¨Menú degustación A menu that normally Midrange ($$) M$80-150 consists of six to eight tasting-size courses . Top End ($$$) above M$150. ¨¨Entradas/antojitos Appetizers or snacks; common in the Yucatán, especially in bars . 49 PAUL FRANKLIN / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / PAULFRANKLIN A FEW TIPS

¨¨When sharing a table or dining in close quarters with Mexicans , it’s customary to wish them ‘buen provecho’ (enjoy your meal) before TRIP YOUR PLAN you eat or leave the table. ¨¨Waiters will not bring you the check until you ask for it. In Mexico it is considered rude to leave a check on a table before the custom- ers have finished their meal. E

¨¨The standard tip in Mexico is 10% at

of the bill. If you liked the service, D & you can bump it up to 15% or 20%. rink

¨¨Nightclubs Some nightclubs in the region L

charge hefty covers (that means you, Cancún) ike with open bar included in the price of admission .

So of course you’re gonna try to get your L

money’s worth – just don’t say we didn’t warn ocal you about the nasty hangover . The booze fest usually gets started around 11pm and thumps well into the wee hours of the morning . ¨ Essentially small bars that Sopa de lima (lime soup) ¨Mezcalerías specialize in mezcal, a distilled alcoholic drink ¨¨Plato fuerte Main course or main dish . made from the agave plant . Though mezcal is not actually made in the Yucatán, mezcalerías have ¨¨Postre Dessert . grown very popular in recent years, especially in larger cities such as Cancún, Mérida and Playa For an explanation of the dishes you’ll del Carmen . Mezcal has a higher alcohol content find onyucateco menus, see p259. than tequila, so expect the unexpected in these watering holes . Where to Drink ¨¨Juice Bars Usually found in markets, ¨¨Cantinas All cantinas sell cerveza and some, juguerías sell fresh-squeezed juices, liquados but not all, have licenses to pour tequila and (fruits blended with milk) and aguas frescas other spirits . Some may even have xtabentún, (water flavored with local treats like chia seed a regional anise-flavored liqueur made from and chaya greens) . The water used to prepare fermented honey . Cantinas usually open at noon drinks in juice bars is purified . and close around 11pm or midnight at the latest . ¨¨Cafes There’s no shortage of cafes in the The cantina experience varies considerably from Yucatán serving quality organic coffee from one watering hole to the next . Some are festive, Chiapas, Oaxaca and Veracruz, Mexico’s top family-friendly establishments offering live coffee-producing regions . Most cafes open early music and complimentary snacks, others have a and close at around 10pm . down-and-dirty barfly vibe that’s best avoided, especially for women traveling alone . 50

Regions at a Isla Mujeres Wildlife Conservation Beaches Glance Outdoor Activities Wildlife Conservation Check out the Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm, where more than 120,000 of these little guys are liberated each year. Watch while eggs are gathered and secured in safe sands during peak nesting season from June to August.

Cancún & Around Calm Beaches Not only does Isla Mujeres Beaches have postcard-perfect, Nature bleach-white beaches, the Water Sports waters on the north shore are shallow, calm and a joy Beach-Bumming to swim in. At nearby Playa Millions of people each year head to Cancún and its Secreto you’ll find a great surrounding areas with just one simple objective: lazing little swimming and snor- around on sugary white-sand beaches and swimming keling spot that’s ideal for in the turquoise-blue waters of the Mexican Caribbean. children. OK, some may also be going to revel in spring-break debauchery. Great Outdoors Snorkel with whale sharks, Wildlife Watching hook big game fish on a Swim with the whale sharks at Isla Holbox or bird-watch sportfishing excursion, or at national park Isla Contoy. Both islands north of Can- go diving and spot manta cún will appeal to those looking for unique outdoor ex- rays, barracuda and sea periences. Just don’t miss the boat back from Isla Contoy turtles. You also have the or you’ll be sleeping under a coconut tree. option of driving around in a golf cart and visiting Water Sports various beach clubs on the Name your water sport and you’ll find it here: snor- island’s south side. keling, kayaking, wakeboarding, fishing – there’s even a unique underwater sculpture museum for beginner p75 divers. And if you have kids, they’ll be splashing themselves silly with all the water-related activities on offer.

p54 51 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Isla Cozumel Riviera Maya Costa Maya & the Southern

Diving & Snorkeling Beaches Caribbean Coast R Scenery Nightlife egions Food Diving Scenery Diving

Divine Diving Beach Life Beaches at

Isla Cozumel is widely con- The Riviera Maya has a sidered Mexico’s top diving stretches of sublime beach G Shades of Blue ANCE L destination and some might that make advertisers very The unparalleled scenery even say one of the world’s happy. In Tulum, Maya of Laguna Bacalar is some- best. Why all the fuss? It’s ruins perched atop a cliff thing to behold. Called all about the year-round rise high above the beach the ‘lake of seven colors,’ visibility, spectacular walls in dramatic fashion. On a the crystalline water has and impressive variety of quiet day on the shore of blues you never even knew colorful marine life. Paamul, it’s just you and existed. While in town, the sea urchins. check out the imposing Island Escape 18th-century colonial Party Central A road trip on a scooter fortress. or convertible VW to the Get your fiesta on in Playa island’s less-visited sides del Carmen, where sandy Take the Plunge is a moving picture of beaches become impromp- Divers won’t want to miss uninhabited, windswept tu stages for fire dancers out on the opportunity to beaches and small Maya and beachside clubs rage explore Banco Chinchorro, ruins – plus it’s a nice es- into the wee hours of the the largest coral atoll in the cape from the cruise-ship morning. South of Playa, northern hemisphere and crowds back in town. happening Tulum is fast a ship graveyard. There’s approaching pueblo-that- good snorkeling here as Wining & Dining never-sleeps status. well. Cozumel certainly has no Cenote Diving shortage of quality restau- Sleepy Beach Towns rants doing fine local and Take a plunge into a cenote Once tiny fishing villages, international cuisine. They (limestone sinkhole) and Mahahual and Xcalak are dot the oceanfront avenue explore amazing caverns seeing more and more tour- and surround the pleasant and caves. Cenotes also ism these days but have town plaza, so the scenery make for great swimming managed to retain a tran- is pretty much a given. holes for nondivers. The quil vibe. They’re about as Maya referred to these fas- far south as you can remove p84 cinating underground river yourself from the mega- systems as gateways to the resort madness of Cancún. underworld. p126 p97 52 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Yucatán State Campeche & Chiapas & the Maya Around

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a Pirates Ahoy San Cristóbal’s cobbled G streets and colonial ar- ANCE L Ruins Hopping Not many cities like chitecture are charming Yucatán has so many Maya Campeche exist, with a enough, but add a dash ruins that you’d probably pretty historical center of Zapatista history and need a leave of absence to surrounded by stone walls colorful indigenous people, visit them all. The most to ward off fierce pirate and you’ve hit something famous of them all, Chichén attacks. Today it’s a serene special. Visit the church in Itzá, draws a million destination with few tour- nearby San Juan Chamula – visitors a year thanks to its ists, and a beachside board- it’s almost magical. recently acquired status as walk creates an atmosphere one of the new seven won- more romantic than Exquisite Temples ders of the world. ravaged. Unique in the Maya world Birdies & Crocs Fins & Flippers is Palenque’s four-story stone tower – perhaps an Nature buffs just can’t get Laguna de Terminos’ col- old observatory? And the enough of Yucatán’s two lection of estuaries and Templo de las Inscripciones largest biosphere reserves mangroves makes up a rich once held the skeleton of in Celestún and Río Lagar- coastal habitat for many Pakal the Great, draped tos. Tour boats take you out critters. Go on a lookout with jewels and a priceless to watch flamingos, which for migratory birds or spot jade mask. flock to the wetlands in the playful dolphins from a winter, and to spot croco- boat. Riverside Adventure diles at night. Lofty Pyramids It takes a long bus trip, plus Food, Glorious Food Deep in a jungle full of a half-hour boat ride, but a visit to the Maya city of Ask any foodie and they’ll toucans and monkeys lies Yaxchilán is unforgettable. tell you that Yucatán state Calakmul, a significant Note the hieroglyphics is one of Mexico’s most Maya site. Originally a huge and interesting facades exciting culinary destina- city, it covered 72 sq km on buildings, and listen tions. Sure, you can try and supported over 50,000 for howler monkeys in the classic yucateco fare like co- people – and it boasts one jungle. And did we mention chinita pibil (slow-cooked of the tallest Maya pyra- the croc-infested waters? pork) or poc-chuc (grilled mids in Mexico. pork) elsewhere in Mexico, p221 but it won’t taste the same. p194

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