1 TTHEHE BBESTEST OOFF THETHE YYUCATÁN,UCATÁN, TTABASCOABASCO & CCHIAPASHIAPAS by David Baird, Shane Christensen & Christine Delsol

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 1 66/10/11/10/11 111:291:29 PMPM 1 he Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of . Its tremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unrivaled mix of sophisticated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya cul- Tture, exquisite beaches, and exhilarating adventures. Between us, we’ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing the peninsula, and these are our personal favorites—the best places to visit, the best hotels and restaurants, plus must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences. The Best Beach Vacations Best The

THE best BEACH VACATIONS W Cancún: Whether or not you believe Cancún is an unrelenting spring break party in which Americans compete with Mexicans for the city’s real identity— and I’d say the truth lies in the timing of your visit—you’re likely to agree this man-made resort has some of the most spectacular beaches in the country. The powdery white sand is complemented by warm waters the color of a Technicolor dream; it’s so clear that you can see through to the coral reefs below. You can come here just to relax, but this is of course also one of the world’s most popular entertainment destinations. Cancún offers Mexico’s

THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN THE BEST widest selection of beachfront resorts, with more restaurants, nightlife, and activities than any other resort destination in the country. See chapter 4.

PREVIOUS PAGE: Beach. ABOVE: A luxury resort in Cancún.

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The Best Beach Vacations

The Tulum ruins, overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

W : If uninterrupted relaxation is what you’re after, Isla Mujeres offers a quintessential laid-back vacation. Most accommodations are small, inexpensive inns, with a few luxury boutique hotels tempting you for at least a night. Bike—or take a golf cart—around the island to explore rocky coves and sandy beaches, or focus your tanning efforts on the wide beachfront of Playa Norte. Here you’ll fi nd calm waters perfect for swimming and snorkel- ing as well as beachfront palapa restaurants beckoning you for a fresh fi sh lunch. If island fever starts to take over, you’re only a ferry ride away from the action in Cancún. See chapter 5.

Relaxing on a beach in Isla Mujeres.

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W Cozumel: It may not offer lots of big, sandy beaches, but Cozumel promises something the mainland doesn’t: the calm, fl at waters of the sheltered west- ern shore. It’s so calm that it could be mistaken for a giant swimming pool, only this pool has lots of brilliantly colored fi sh, so take your snorkeling mask even if you don’t plan to do any diving, which, in Cozumel, is among the best in the world. See chapter 5. W : Stylish and hip, Playa del Carmen has a beautiful beach and an eclectic assortment of small hotels, inns, and cabañas. The social scene focuses on the beach by day and the pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) by night, with its assortment of restaurants, clubs, sidewalk cafes, and shops offering all the entertainment you could want. You’re also close to the coast’s major attractions, including nature parks, ruins, and cenotes (sinkholes

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004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 6 66/10/11/10/11 111:301:30 PMPM e Escárcega d s Ciudad del a o n n Carmen gu i La rm Té C A M P E C H E Bay of or natural wells). Fast-growing Playa is becoming homogenized (think Dairy 1 Campeche Candelaria Queen and Starbucks). Enjoy it while it’s still a manageable size. See chapter 6. Comalcalco W Tulum: Fronting some of the best beaches on the entire coast, Tulum’s small THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN TABASCO hotels offer guests a little slice of paradise far from the crowds and megare- sorts. The bustling town lies inland; at the coast, activities and partying com- Villahermosa Cárdenas TABASCO pete with swinging in a hammock and doing absolutely nothing. If you can Reforma pull yourself away from the beach, there are ruins to marvel at and a vast nature preserve to explore. See chapter 6. Tenosique VERACRUZ La Palma Misol Ha THE best CULTURAL U su Simojovel Agua Azul m ac EXPERIENCES Presa in Ocosingo ta Netzahualcoyotl R Yaxchilán W i Exploring the Inland Yucatán Peninsula: Travelers who venture only to the A SUMIDERO v San Cristóbal Toniná er C Yucatán’s resorts and cities miss the rock-walled inland villages, where women NATIONAL PARK de las Casas A Frontera X wear brightly embroidered dresses and life proceeds almost as if the modern The Best Cultural Experiences Tuxtla Corozal A Chiapa de world (with the exception of highways) didn’t exist. The adventure of seeing O Gutiérrez Corzo Amatenango secluded cenotes, unrestored haciendas, and newly uncovered ruins, deep in CHIAPAS del Valle Comitán MONTEBELLO LAKES jungle settings, is not to be missed. See chapter 7. NATIONAL PARK Chincultic W Street & Park Entertainment in Mérida: Few cities have so vibrant a street scene as Mérida. Every night throughout the week you can catch music and Presa La Angostura dance performances in plazas about town. Then, on Sunday, Mérida really G U A T E M A L A gets going—streets are closed off, food stalls spring up everywhere, and you can enjoy a book fair, a fl ea market, comedy acts, band concerts, and dance Ciudad Cuauhtémoc groups. At night, the main plaza is the place to be, with people dancing to Gulf of U N I T E D S T A T E S mambos and rumbas in the street in front of the city hall. See chapter 7. Tehuantepec W San Cristóbal de las Casas: The city of San Cristóbal is a living museum, with 16th-century colonial architecture and pre-Hispanic native infl uences. Gulf of The highland Maya live in surrounding villages and arrive daily in town wear- M E X I C O Mexico ing colorful handmade clothing. A visit to the villages is a window into another Mexico City Tapachula PACIFIC OCEAN G U A T E M A L A E L S A L V A D O R H O N D U R A S

Papadzules (rolled with pumpkin Mérida by night. sauce and tomatoes).

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004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 7 66/10/11/10/11 111:301:30 PMPM 1 world, giving visitors a glimpse of traditional Indian dress, religious customs, churches, and ceremonies. See chapter 8. W Regional Cuisine: A trip to the Yucatán allows for a culinary tour of some of Mexico’s fi nest foods. Don’t miss specialties such as pollo or (chicken or pork in savory achiote Getting the Best from this Book sauce), the uniquely Campechan pan de cazón, great seafood dishes, Hotels and restaurants in major tourist areas the many styles of tamal found of Mexico can list their prices in either U.S. throughout Chiapas and the Yuca- dollars or Mexican pesos or both. We’ve tán, and Caribbean-infl uenced sta- listed prices in this book in the preferred ples such as fried bananas, black currency of the establishment. beans, and yucca root. For a glos- sary of popular regional dishes, see

The Best Archaeological Sites Archaeological Best The chapter 10.

THE best ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES W Tulum: Tulum isn’t the most important ancient Maya city, either historically or architecturally, but its seaside setting is uniquely beautiful. The stark con- trast of its crumbling stone walls against the clear turquoise ocean just beyond is an extraordinary sight. See “Tulum” in chapter 6. W Calakmul: Of the many elegantly built Maya cities of the Río Bec area, in the lower Yucatán, Calakmul is the broadest in scope and design. It’s also one of the hardest to reach—about 48km (30 miles) from the Guatemalan border

THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN THE BEST and surrounded by the jungle of the Calakmul Biological Reserve. Calakmul is a walled city with the tallest pyramid in the Yucatán—a city that continuing research might prove to be the largest in the Maya world, more than equal to Guatemala’s Tikal. Go now, while it remains infrequently visited. See “Side Trips to Maya Ruins from Chetumal” in chapter 6. W Uxmal: No matter how many times we see Uxmal, the splendor of its stone carvings remains awe-inspiring. A stone rattlesnake undulates across the facade of the Nunnery complex, and 103 masks of Chaac—the rain god— project from the Governor’s Palace. See “The Ruins of Uxmal” in chapter 7. W Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giant serpent head at the foot of El Castillo and marvel at the architects and astronomers who positioned the building so precisely that shadow and sunlight form a serpent’s body slithering from peak to the earth at each equinox (Mar 21 and Sept 21). See “The Ruins of Chi- chén Itzá” in chapter 7. W Ek Balam: In recent years, this is the site where some of Mexico’s most astounding archaeological discoveries have been made. Ek Balam’s main pyr- amid is taller than Chichén Itzá’s, and it holds a sacred doorway bordered with elaborate stucco fi gures of priests and kings and rich iconography. See “Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar” in chapter 7. W Palenque: The ancient builders of these structures carved histories in stone that scholars have only recently deciphered. Imagine the magnifi cent cere- mony in a.d. 683 when King Pacal was buried deep inside his pyramid—his tomb unspoiled until its discovery in 1952. See “Palenque” in chapter 8.

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The Best Active Vacations

The Palenque ruins. THE best ACTIVE VACATIONS W Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along the Yucatán’s Caribbean Coast: The coral reefs off the island, Mexico’s premier diving destination, are among the top fi ve dive spots in the world. The Yucatán’s coastal reef, part of the planet’s second-largest reef system and a national marine park, affords excellent diving all along the coast. Diving from Isla Mujeres is quite spectacular. Especially beautiful is the Chinchorro Reef, lying 32km (20 miles) offshore from Mahahual or Xcalak. See chapters 5 and 6. W Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen & Mahahual Peninsulas: Serious anglers will enjoy the challenge of fl y-fi shing the saltwater fl ats and lagoons on the protected sides of these peninsulas. See “Sian Ka’an & the Punta Allen Peninsula” and “Mahahual, Xcalak & the Chin- chorro Reef” in chapter 6. W Cenote Diving on the Yucatán Mainland: Dive into the clear depths of the Yucatán’s cenotes for a whole new world of underwater exploration. The Maya considered the cenotes sacred—and their vivid colors do indeed seem other- worldly. Most are between Playa Scuba diving in Cozumel.

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Herons in .

THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN THE BEST del Carmen and Tulum, and dive shops in these areas regularly run trips for experienced divers. For recommended dive shops, see “Cozumel” in chapter 5, and “Playa del Carmen” and “South of Playa del Carmen” in chapter 6. W Birding: The Yucatán Peninsula, Tabasco, and Chiapas are ornithological paradises. Two very special places are Isla Contoy, with more than 70 species of birds as well as a host of marine and animal life (p. 126), and the Huitepec , with its fl ocks of migratory species (p. 333). North America’s largest fl amingo breeding and nesting grounds lie at opposite ends of Yucatán state’s Gulf Coast, in Celestún (p. 256) and Ría Lagartos (p. 300). W An Excursion to Bonampak & Yaxchilán: Bonampak and Yaxchilán—two remote, jungle-surrounded Maya sites along the —are accessible by car and motorboat. Colorful murals of battle and victory at Bonampak have managed to survive the elements after hundreds of years, and remain some of the best examples of Maya painting on the peninsula. The experience could well be the highlight of any trip. See “Road Trips from San Cristóbal” in chapter 8. THE best MUSEUMS W Museo de la Cultura Maya (Chetumal; & 983/832-6838): This modern museum, one of the best in the country, explores Maya archaeology, architec- ture, history, and mythology. It has interactive exhibits and a glass fl oor that allows visitors to walk above replicas of Maya sites. See p. 217. W Museo Regional de Antropología (Mérida; & 999/923-0557): Housed in the Palacio Cantón, one of the most beautiful 19th-century mansions in a city overendowed with beautiful mansions, this museum showcases local archaeology and anthropological studies in handsome exhibits. See p. 251.

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The Best Shopping

Exploring the ruins of Yaxchilán.

W Parque–Museo La Venta (Villahermosa; & 993/314-1652): The Olmec, considered Mexico’s mother culture, are the subject of this park/museum, which features the magnifi cent stone remains that were removed from the La Venta site not far away. Stroll through a jungle setting where tropical birds alight, and examine the giant carved stone heads of the mysterious Olmec. See p. 309. THE best SHOPPING Some tips on bargaining: Although haggling over prices in markets is expected and part of the fun, don’t try to browbeat the vendor or bad-mouth the goods. Vendors won’t bargain with people they consider disrespectful unless they are desperate to make a sale. Be insistent but friendly. W Resort Wear in Cancún: Resort clothing—especially if you can fi nd a sale— can be a good value here. And the selection may be wider than what’s avail- able at home. Almost every mall on the island contains trendy boutiques that specialize in locally designed and imported clothing. The best is La Isla Shop- ping Center. Less expensive local fashions are widely available in the original downtown known as El Centro. See “Shopping” in chapter 4. W Duty-Free in Cancún: If you’re looking for European perfume, fi ne watches, or other imported goods, you’ll fi nd the prices in Cancún’s duty-free shops (at the major malls on the island and in downtown Cancún) hard to beat. See “Shopping” in chapter 4. W Quinta Avenida, Playa del Carmen: This pedestrian-only street offers lei- surely shopping at its best. No cars, no hassle; even the touts are laid-back. Simply stroll the street and let your eye pick out objects of interest. New Age

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Shopping in San Cristóbal de las Casas.

THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN THE BEST types will be in their glory, with the abundance of batik clothing and fabric, Guatemalan textiles, and inventive jewelry and artwork. But you’ll also fi nd quality Mexican handicrafts, premium tequilas, and (genuine) Cuban cigars. See “Playa del Carmen” in chapter 6. W Mérida: This is the marketplace for the Yucatán—count on the best prices and the best quality in hammocks, guayaberas, Panama hats, and Yucatecan huipiles. See “Exploring Mérida” in chapter 7. W San Cristóbal de las Casas: Deep in the heart of the Maya highlands, San Cristóbal has shops, open plazas, and markets that feature the distinctive waist-loomed wool and cotton textiles of the region, as well as leather shoes, handsome pottery, and Guatemalan textiles. Highland Maya Indians sell direct to tourists from their armloads of textiles, pottery, and wood carvings. See “San Cristóbal de las Casas” in chapter 8. THE hottest NIGHTLIFE Although, as expected, Cancún is the source of much of the Yucatán’s nightlife, that resort city isn’t the only place to have a good time after dark. Along the Caribbean coast, beachside dance fl oors with live bands and extended happy hours in seaside bars dominate the nightlife. Here are some favorite hot spots, from live music in hotel lobby bars to hip dance clubs. W Cancún: Longstanding Cancún favorites Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s and Señor Frog’s offer potent drinks, hot music, and wild (if sometimes sloppy) dance fl oors. For a more cosmopolitan setting, La Madonna is a fashionable and decadent martini bar and restaurant in the La Isla Shopping Village. See chapter 4.

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004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 1212 66/10/11/10/11 111:301:30 PMPM W Grupo Dady: Longstanding favor- 1 ite Dady’O, as well as its offsprings

Terresta, UltraClub, Dady Rock, THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN and Dos Equis Bar, all lie within a block of each other pulsating with music and happy revelers. Grupo Dady offers a package rate that includes open bar and entrance to these popular venues. See p. 113. W Forum by the Sea: This seaside entertainment center in Cancún has it all: a dazzling array of dance clubs, sports bars, fast food, and Playa del Carmen’s bustling Quinta Avenida. fi ne dining, with shops open late

as well. You’ll fi nd plenty of famil-

iar names here, including the Hard Rock Cafe and Cafe. It’s also The Hottest Nightlife the home of what remains Cancún’s hottest club, CoCo Bongo, which regu- larly packs in up to 3,000 revelers. See p. 113. W The City: One of Cancún’s hottest nightclubs, the City is a raging day-and- night club, offering a beach club with beach and pool activities and food and bar service, as well as the sizzling nightclub with nine bars at which the world’s top DJs spin their grooves. This is truly a City that never sleeps. See p. 113. W Quinta Avenida (Playa del Carmen): Stroll along lively, pedestrian-only Fifth Avenue to fi nd the bar that’s right for you. With live-music venues, tequila bars, sports bars, and cafes, you’re sure to fi nd something to fi t your mood. The intersection with Calle 12 is becoming the de facto club central. See p. 171. W San Cristóbal de las Casas: This city, small though it may be, has a live- music scene that can’t be beat for fun and atmosphere. The bars and clubs are all within walking distance of each other, and they’re a real bargain. See “San Cristóbal de las Casas” in chapter 8.

The free-form infi nity pools at the JW Marriott in Cancún.

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004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 1313 66/10/11/10/11 111:301:30 PMPM 1 THE most LUXURIOUS HOTELS W Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach (Cancún; www.fi estamericanagrand. com): This refi ned resort sits on one of Cancún’s most alluring stretches of beach, although you’ll be equally tempted by the spectacular multitiered pools surrounded by lush grounds. This all-suite resort attracts an interna- tional crowd and offers outstanding service. See p. 88. W JW Marriott (Cancún; www.jwmarriottcancun.com): This gorgeous resort affords elegance without pretense, combining classic and Caribbean styling with warm Mexican service. The inviting free-form infi nity pool extends to the white-sand beach, and families feel just as comfortable here as romance-seek- ing couples. The hotel includes a spectacular 3,250-sq.-m (35,000-sq.-ft.) spa. See p. 91. The Most Luxurious Hotels Most The W Presidente InterContinental Cozumel (Cozumel; www.intercontinental

cozumel.com): Surrounded by shady palms fronting the sea, this resort sits on the island’s best beach, right in front of Paraíso Reef. The dive center here is excellent and the Maya-inspired service is warm and personalized. Beachfront “reef” rooms and suites occupy the resort’s most exclusive section and include 24-hour butler service and hammocks. See p. 150. W Grand Velas (south of Puerto Morelos; www.rivieramaya.grandvelas.com): Put away your old notions of all-inclusive resorts as cheap and tacky. This new “one price for everything” wonder pampers guests with elegant, understated decor, award-winning gourmet restaurants, luxe suites with beachfront plunge pools, a spa that outshines most others . . . in short, just about every luxury accoutrement ever invented. See p. 164.

THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN THE BEST W Hacienda Xcanatún (outskirts of Mérida; www.xcanatun.com): With its large, boldly designed suites built with extravagance in mind, acres of tropical gardens, private spa, excellent restaurant, and ample staff, this hotel masters the diffi cult trick of being compact in size but expansive in offerings. See “Haciendas & Hotels” on p. 237. W Hacienda Puerta Campeche (Campeche; www.luxurycollection.com): Not a hacienda at all, really, this gorgeous hotel was created out of several adjoining colonial houses. This makes for a large property (especially for having only 15 rooms), with an open area in back featuring a pool and tropical gardens under ancient crumbling walls. From any vantage point the hotel is beautiful—both in overall layout and design details. And the service is impeccable. See p. 280. W Parador San Juan de Dios (San Cristóbal; www.sanjuandios.com): Any lux- ury hotel in San Cristóbal must capture the atmosphere of this ancient town balanced between European and native worlds. Here it is presented with grace and beauty, a place where one can relax in the oversize colonial rooms or outside amid the extensive grounds. See p. 335. THE best INEXPENSIVE INNS W Rey del Caribe Hotel (Cancún; www.reycaribe.com): An inexpensive retreat in downtown Cancún, this hotel has considered every detail in its quest for an organic and environmentally friendly atmosphere. Set in a tropical garden, the Rey del Caribe provides sunny rooms, warm service, yoga and other themed classes, and healthful dining—all a welcome respite from party-hearty Can- cún. See p. 96. 14

004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 1414 66/10/11/10/11 11:3011:30 PMPM W Luz en Yucatán (Mérida; www.luzenyucatan.com): This inn, just 3 blocks 1 from the main plaza, has a marvelous variety of thoughtfully decorated rooms,

suites, studios, and apartments tucked into a sweet garden around a pool. The THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN beds are superior, guests have use of a large kitchen and dining room, and the hotel offers a free bar cart. See p. 241. W Hotel López (Campeche; www.hotellopezcampeche.com.mx): The recently restored López departs from the historic center’s colonial restorations with its Art Deco loops and curves. The lobby, courtyard, and new waterfall pool are sheer eye candy; rooms are more modest but quite comfy and equipped with gleaming tile bathrooms. In a city that’s already kind to the budget, it’s the best hotel in its price range. See p. 281. W Hotel Posada La Media Luna (San Cristóbal; www.hotel-lamedialuna.com): In a city of inexpensive lodgings, this beats all the other bargain hotels for its

combination of location, room size, and service. See p. 337.

THE best RESTAURANTS The Best Restaurants Best doesn’t necessarily mean most luxurious. Although some of the restaurants listed here are fancy affairs, others are simple places to get fi ne, authentic Yucate- can cuisine. W Gustino (Cancún; & 998/848-9600): The JW Marriott’s signature restau- rant is a gourmand’s paradise, with fresh seafood, steaks, and homemade pas- tas prepared in the open kitchen using classic Italian ingredients. The beautiful dining room makes this one of the city’s most romantic places to dine. See p. 99. W Labná (Ciudad Cancún; & 998/892-3056): Steep yourself in traditional Yucatecan culture at this downtown eatery, which showcases Maya cuisine and music. The Labná Special samples four of the region’s best dishes, including baked suckling pig with . See p. 102. W 100% Natural for Licuados: This casual eatery serves terrifi c breakfasts and healthy snacks throughout the day. Come for one of the licuados, drinks made from fresh fruit mixed with water or milk. The chain offers a wide selection, including innovative mixtures such as the Cozumel (spinach, pineapple, and orange) and the Caligula (orange, pineap- ple, beet, celery, parsley, carrot, and lime juices)—a healthy indul- gence. Cancún has several branches (p. 103); others are in Mérida and Playa del Carmen. W Casa Rolandi (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877-0700): This exquisite Fresh seafood is a staple of the local diet.

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004_9781118027387-ch01.indd4_9781118027387-ch01.indd 1515 66/10/11/10/11 111:301:30 PMPM 1 restaurant attached to the Villa Rolandi boutique hotel serves outstanding Italian-inspired cuisine. Overlooking the Caribbean, the acclaimed dining room offers wonderful fresh fi sh, seafood, and pastas. See p. 98. W Cabaña del Pescador (Cozumel; no phone): If you want an ideally sea- soned, succulent lobster dinner, Cabaña del Pescador (Lobster House) is the place. If you want anything else, you’re out of luck—lobster dinner, expertly prepared, is all it serves. When you’ve achieved perfection, why bother with anything else? See p. 151. W La Cocay (Cozumel; & 987/872-5533): The most original cooking on the island is served in an enchanted dining room and outdoor courtyard. The The Best Restaurants Best The emphasis is Mediterranean-prepared seafood with Spanish accents. Don’t miss the excellent tapas and mixed grilled seafood served with .

See p. 152. W Yaxché (Playa del Carmen; & 984/873-2502): Few restaurants in the Riv- iera Maya explore the region’s culinary traditions and use of local ingredients to the degree that this one does. Its menu presents several pleasant surprises and is a welcome relief from the standard offerings of most tourist restaurants. See p. 176. W La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/811-3365): Campeche’s regional specialty is seafood, and nowhere else will you fi nd seafood like this. Mexican caviar, coconut-battered shrimp, and chiles stuffed with shark are just a few of the unique specialties. Thinking about La Pigua’s pompano in a fi ne green herb

THE BEST OF THE YUCATÁN THE BEST sauce makes me want to start checking fl ight schedules. See p. 282. W Jangada (Villahermosa; & 993/317-6050): Here you can dine on fresh fi sh and seafood prepared in a variety of ways, both classic and original. Try the freshwater pejelagarto, found only here, in the state of Tabasco. Pigua, the freshwater lobster, a rare delicacy elsewhere, can be had daily here. But the dish that keeps drawing me back is the shrimp and yuca soup. All the Mexi- can classics are represented, too, from ceviche to the fi sh tacos and empana- das. Here you can have it all. See p. 311.

Panucho ( fi lled with beans and topped with chicken, lettuce, and pickled red onion).

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