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1 The Best of Cancún, & the Yucatán by David Baird & Juan Cristiano

The Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of . Its tremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unrivaled mix of sophisti- cated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya culture, exquisite beaches, and exhilarating adventures. Between the two of us, we’ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing the peninsula, and these are our personal favorites—the best places to visit, the best hotels and restaurants, plus must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences.

1 The Best Beach Vacations • Cancún: Despite extensive damage Playa Norte. Here you’ll find calm from Hurricane Wilma in late 2005, waters and palapa restaurants, where relief came quickly, and by 2007 you can have fresh-caught fish for most of this city resort had been lunch. You’re close to great diving and rebuilt to look even better than snorkeling just offshore, as well as Isla before. In terms of sheer beauty, Can- Contoy National Park, which fea- cún has always been the site of Mexi- tures great bird life and its own dra- co’s most alluring beaches. The matic, uninhabited beach. If all that powdery, white-sand beaches boast tranquillity starts to get to you, you’re water the color of a Technicolor only a ferry ride away from the action dream; it’s so clear that you can see in Cancún. See chapter 5. through to the coral reefs below. Can- • Cozumel: It may not have lots of big, cún offers the widest assortment of sandy beaches, but Cozumel has luxury beachfront hotels, with more something the mainland doesn’t: the restaurants, nightlife, and activities calm, flat waters of the sheltered than any other resort destination in western shore. It’s so easy that it’s like the country. See chapter 4. swimming in an aquarium. Cozumel • :COPYRIGHTEDIf laid-back is what also MATERIAL has lots to see under the water. you’re after, this idyllic island affords See chapter 5. peaceful, small-town beach life at its • : This is one of our best. Most accommodations are absolute favorite Mexican beach vaca- smaller, inexpensive inns, with a few tions. Stylish and hip, Playa del Car- unique, luxurious places tossed in. men has a beautiful beach and an Bike—or take a golf cart—around eclectic assortment of small hotels, the island to explore rocky coves and inns, and cabañas. The social scene sandy beaches, or focus your tanning focuses on the beach by day and the efforts on the wide beachfront of pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN Mexico

TijuanaTijuana MexicaliMexicali UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES UNITED STATES EnsenadaEnsenada 2 BAJABAJA CiudadCiudad CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA JuárezJuárez NORTENORTE PuertoPuerto NogalesNogales PenascoPenasco 2 SanSan QuintinQuintin 45 SONORASONORA 15 1 10 OjinagaOjinaga HermosilloHermosillo CHIHUAHUACHIHUAHUA GuerreroGuerrero 18 Piedras Negras IslaIsla NegroNegro 16 ChihuahuaChihuahua CedrosCedros 16 CuidadCuidad CuauhtémocCuauhtémoc COAHUILACOAHUILA SantaSanta ObregónObregón RosaliaRosalia DeliciasDelicias Nuevo Laredo MulegéMulegé BAJABAJA HidalgoHidalgo MonclovaMonclova CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA deldel ParralParral SURSUR 49 30 LoretoLoreto 57 SINALOASINALOA 45 Monterrey LosLos TorreónTorreón 40 Matamoros MochisMochis DURANGODURANGO SaltilloSaltillo CuliacánCuliacán NUEVO 1 LEÓN LaLa PazPaz 15 SeaSea ofof CortésCortés DurangoDurango TAMAULIPAS 40 SanSan JoséJosé FresnilloFresnillo 54 Ciudad Victoria TodosTodos SantosSantos deldel CaboCabo MazatlánMazatlán ZACATECASZACATECAS CaboCabo SanSan LucasLucas ZacatecasZacatecas SanSan Ciudad Mante 15 LuisLuis PotosíPotosí Tampico Río Lagartos Isla TuxpanTuxpan AGUASCALIENTESAGUASCALIENTES SAN LUIS SanSan BlasBlas Progreso Mujeres TepicTepic POTOSÍ Valladolid AguascalientesAguascalientes Cancún IslasIslas San Miguel Tuxpan NAYARITNAYARIT LeónLeón de Allende Celestún MariasMarias Mérida Cozumel GuadalajaraGuadalajara QUERÉTARO GuanajuatoGuanajuato Poza Rica YUCATÁN Playa del PuertoPuerto VallartaVallarta Carmen GUANA-GUANA- HIDALGO Papantla Querétaro Campeche Punta JALISCOJALISCO LakeLake ChapalaChapala JUATOJUATO Pachuca QUINTANA Allen MoreliaMorelia Bay of BarraBarra dede NavidadNavidad UruapanUruapan Mexico City Xalapa CAMPECHE ROO Toluca TLAXCALA Campeche ColimaColima Tlaxcala Veracruz Majahual ManzanilloManzanillo PátzcuaroPátzcuaro Cuernavaca Puebla Escárcega Peninsula MICHOACANMICHOACAN COLIMACOLIMA PUEBLA Orizaba Catemaco 37 MORELOS TABASCO 200 Tehuacán Taxco VERACRUZ Villahermosa LázaroLázaro Coatzacoalcos GUERRERO CárdenasCárdenas BELIZE San Cristóbal ZihuatanejoZihuatanejo Oaxaca Tuxtla & IxtapaIxtapa Acapulco Gutiérrez de las Casas OAXACA PACIFICP A C I F I C CHIAPAS Salina Comitan OCEANO C E A N Puerto Escondido Cruz GUATEMALA Huatulco Puerto Ángel HONDURAS Tapachula EL SALVADOR

0 150 mi N 0 150 km 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 7

THE BEST BEACH VACATIONS 7

Tijuana Mexicali UNITED STATES UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES Ensenada

BAJA Ciudad CALIFORNIA Juárez NORTE Puerto Nogales Penasco San Quintin

SONORA

Ojinaga Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA Guerrero PiedrasPiedras NegrasNegras Isla Negro Chihuahua Cedros Cuidad Cuauhtémoc COAHUILA Santa Obregón Rosalia Delicias NuevoNuevo LaredoLaredo Mulegé BAJA Hidalgo Monclova CALIFORNIA del Parral SUR 85D Loreto Gulf of Mexico SINALOA MonterreyMonterrey Los Torreón MatamorosMatamoros Mochis DURANGO Saltillo 180 Culiacán NUEVONUEVO LEÓNLEÓN 85 La Paz Sea of Cortés Durango TAMAULIPASTAMAULIPAS

San José Fresnillo CiudadCiudad VictoriaVictoria Todos Santos del Cabo Mazatlán ZACATECAS Cabo San Lucas Zacatecas San Luis CiudadCiudad ManteMante Potosí TampicoTampico RíoRío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla Tuxpan AGUASCALIENTES SANSAN LUISLUIS San Blas ProgresoProgreso MujeresMujeres Tepic POTOSÍPOTOSÍ ValladolidValladolid Aguascalientes CancúnCancún Islas SanSan MiguelMiguel TuxpanTuxpan 180 NAYARIT León dede AllendeAllende CelestúnCelestún Marias MéridaMérida CozumelCozumel Guadalajara QUERÉTAROQUERÉTARO Guanajuato PozaPoza RRicaica YUCATÁNYUCATÁN PlayaPlaya deldel Puerto Vallarta CarmenCarmen GUANA- HIDALGOHIDALGO PapantlaPapantla QuerétaroQuerétaro CampecheCampeche PuntaPunta JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO PachucaPachuca 180 QUINTANAQUINTANA AllenAllen Morelia BayBay ofof Barra de Navidad Uruapan MexicoMexico CityCity XalapaXalapa CAMPECHECAMPECHE ROOROO TolucaToluca TLAXCALATLAXCALA CampecheCampeche BacalarBacalar Colima TlaxcalaTlaxcala VeracruzVeracruz 261 MajahualMajahual Manzanillo Pátzcuaro CuernavacaCuernavaca PueblaPuebla EscárcegaEscárcega PeninsulaPeninsula MICHOACAN COLIMA PUEBLAPUEBLA OrizabaOrizaba CatemacoCatemaco ChetumalChetumal MORELOSMORELOS TABASCOTABASCO TehuacánTehuacán TaxcoTaxco 95 VERACRUZVERACRUZ VillahermosaVillahermosa 186 Lázaro 190D CoatzacoalcosCoatzacoalcos GUERREROGUERRERO 175 PalenquePalenque Cárdenas BELIZEBELIZE 186 SanSan CristóbalCristóbal Zihuatanejo OaxacaOaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla & Ixtapa AcapulcoAcapulco GutiérrezGutiérrez dede laslas CasasCasas Sea 200 OAXACAOAXACA P A C I F I C CHIAPASCHIAPAS SalinaSalina ComitanComitan O C E A N PuertoPuerto EscondidoEscondido CruzCruz GUATEMALAGUATEMALA HuatulcoHuatulco 200 PuertoPuerto Gulf of ÁngelÁngel Tehuantepec HONDURASHONDURAS TapachulaTapachula ELEL SALVADORSALVADOR 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN (Fifth Avenue) by night, with its fun small palapa hotels offer guests a little assortment of restaurants, clubs, side- slice of paradise far from the crowds walk cafes, and shops. You’re also and megaresorts. The bustling town close to the coast’s major attractions, lies inland; at the coast, things are including nature parks, ruins, and quiet and will remain so because all cenotes (sinkholes or natural wells). these hotels are small and must gen- Cozumel Island is just a quick ferry erate their own electricity. If you can trip away. Enjoy it while it’s still a pull yourself away from the beach, manageable size. See chapter 6. nearby are ruins to explore and a vast • : Fronting some of the best nature preserve. See chapter 6. beaches on the entire coast, Tulum’s

2 The Best Cultural Experiences • Exploring the Inland Yucatán • San Cristóbal de las Casas: The city Peninsula: Travelers who venture only of San Cristóbal is a living museum, to the Yucatán’s resorts and cities miss with 16th-century colonial architec- the rock-walled inland villages, where ture and pre-Hispanic native influ- women wear colorful embroidered ences. The highland Maya live in dresses and life seems to proceed as surrounding villages and arrive daily though the modern world (with the in town wearing colorful handmade exception of highways) didn’t exist. clothing. The villages are a window The adventure of seeing newly uncov- into another world, giving visitors a ered ruins, deep in jungle settings, is glimpse of traditional Indian dress, not to be missed. See chapters 6 and 7. religious customs, churches, and cer- • Street & Park Entertainment emonies. See chapter 8. (Mérida): Few cities have so vibrant a • Regional Cuisine: A trip to the street scene as Mérida. Throughout Yucatán allows for a culinary tour of the week you can catch music and some of Mexico’s finest foods. Don’t dance performances in plazas about miss specialties such as pollo or town, and on Sunday, Mérida really cochinita pibil (chicken or pork in gets going—streets are closed off, savory achiote sauce), great seafood food stalls spring up everywhere, and dishes, the many styles of tamal you can enjoy a book fair, a flea mar- found throughout Chiapas and the ket, comedy acts, band concerts, and Yucatán, and Caribbean-influenced dance groups. At night, the main staples such as fried bananas, black plaza is the place to be, with people beans, and yucca root. For a glossary dancing to mambos and rumbas in of popular regional dishes, see the street in front of the town hall. Appendix B. See chapter 7.

3 The Best Archaeological Sites • Calakmul: Of the many elegantly Guatemalan border and completely built Maya cities of the Río Bec area, surrounded by jungle (actually, the in the lower Yucatán, Calakmul is the Calakmul Biological Reserve). Calak- broadest in scope and design. It’s also mul is a walled city with the tallest one of the hardest to reach—about pyramid in the Yucatán—a city 48km (30 miles) from the whose primary inhabitants are the 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 9

THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS 9 trees that populate the plazas. Go positioned the building so precisely now, while it remains infrequently that shadow and sunlight form a ser- visited. See “Side Trips to Maya pent’s body slithering from peak to Ruins from Chetumal” in chapter 6. the earth at each equinox (Mar 21 • Tulum: Some dismiss Tulum as less and Sept 21). See “The Ruins of important than other ruins in the Chichén Itzá” in chapter 7. Yucatán Peninsula, but this seaside • Ek Balam: In recent years, this is the Maya fortress is still inspiring. The site where some of Mexico’s most stark contrast of its crumbling stone astounding archaeological discoveries walls against the clear turquoise have been made. Ek Balam’s main ocean just beyond is an extraordinary pyramid is taller than Chichén Itzá’s, sight. See “Tulum, & and it holds a sacred doorway bor- Sian Ka’an” in chapter 6. dered with elaborate stucco figures of • Uxmal: No matter how many times priests and kings and rich iconogra- we see Uxmal, the splendor of its stone phy. See “Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar” in carvings remains awe-inspiring. A chapter 7. stone rattlesnake undulates across the • Palenque: The ancient builders of facade of the Nunnery complex, and these now-ruined structures carved 103 masks of Chaac—the rain god— histories in stone that scholars have project from the Governor’s Palace. See only recently deciphered. Imagine the “The Ruins of Uxmal” in chapter 7. magnificent ceremony in A.D. 683 • Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giant when King Pacal was buried below serpent head at the foot of the ground in a secret pyramidal tomb— El Castillo pyramid and marvel at unspoiled until its discovery in 1952. the architects and astronomers who See “Palenque” in chapter 8.

4 The Best Active Vacations • Scuba Diving in Cozumel & Along • Cenote Diving on the Yucatán the Yucatán’s Caribbean Coast: The Mainland: Dive into the clear depths coral reefs off the island, Mexico’s pre- of the Yucatán’s cenotes for an interest- mier diving destination, are among ing twist on underwater exploration. the top five dive spots in the world. The Maya considered the cenotes The Yucatán’s coastal reef, part of the sacred—and their vivid colors do planet’s second-largest reef system, indeed seem otherworldly. Most are affords excellent diving all along the between Playa del Carmen and coast. Especially beautiful is the Chin- Tulum, and dive shops in these areas chorro Reef, lying 32km (20 miles) regularly run trips for experienced offshore from Majahual or . divers. For recommended dive shops, Diving from Isla Mujeres is also quite see “Cozumel” in chapter 5, and spectacular. See chapters 5 and 6. “Playa del Carmen” and “South of • Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen & Playa del Carmen” in chapter 6. Majahual Peninsulas: Serious • Birding: The Yucatán Peninsula, anglers will enjoy the challenge of fly- Tabasco, and Chiapas are ornitho- fishing the saltwater flats and lagoons logical paradises. Two very special on the protected sides of these penin- places are Isla Contoy, with more sulas. See “Tulum, Punta Allen & than 70 species of birds as well as a Sian Ka’an” and “Majahual, Xcalak & host of marine and animal life the Chinchorro Reef” in chapter 6. (chapter 6), and the Huitepec Cloud 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN Forest, with its flocks of migratory sites along the Usumacinta River—are species (see p. 262). now accessible by car and motorboat. • An Excursion to Bonampak & Yax- The experience could well be the high- chilán: Bonampak and Yaxchilán— light of any trip. See “Road Trips from two remote, jungle-surrounded Maya San Cristóbal” in chapter 8.

5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All • Isla Mujeres: If there’s one island in are the best place to unwind at this Mexico that guarantees a respite from resort, where hammocks stretch stress, it’s Isla Mujeres. You’ll find an between trees. The hotel is on the ample selection of hotels and restau- shores of placid Lago (Lake) Bacalar, rants, and they’re as laid-back as their south of Cancún near Chetumal, and patrons. Here life moves along in there’s nothing around for miles. But pure mañana mode, with little sign of if you want adventure, you can head the bustling commercialism that out to the lake in a kayak, follow a exists just across the bay. Visitors birding trail, or take an excursion to stretch out and doze beneath shady Belize and the intriguing Maya palms or languidly stroll about. In ruins on the nearby Río Bec ruin fact, Isla Mujeres feels worlds route. See p. 173. removed from Cancún, yet remains • Hotel Eco Paraíso Xixim (Celestún; comfortably close for those who & 988/916-2100; www.ecoparaiso. choose to reconnect. See “Isla com): In these crowded times, space Mujeres” in chapter 5. is a luxury that’s getting harder to • The Yucatán’s : Away come by. Space is precisely what from the busy resort of Cancún, a makes this place so great: Fifteen string of quiet getaways, including bungalows and 5km (3 miles) of Capitán Lafitte, Paamul, Punta Bete, beach bordering a coconut planta- and a portion of Xpu-ha, offer tran- tion. Throw in a good restaurant, a quillity on beautiful beaches at low pool, and a couple of hammocks, prices. See “North of Playa del Car- and you have that rare combina- men” and “South of Playa del Carmen” tion of comfort and isolation. See in chapter 6. p. 207. • Tulum: Near the Tulum ruins, • Hacienda San José Cholul (& 800/ about two dozen beachside palapa 325-3589 in the U.S. and Canada; inns offer some of the most peaceful www.luxurycollection.com): Owned getaways in the country. This by Starwood Hotels, this hacienda is stretch just might offer the best only an hour east of the bustling city sandy beaches on the entire coast. of Mérida, toward Izamal, but it feels Life here among the birds and like another world. The quiet, coconut palms is decidedly unhur- unhurried manner of both guests ried. See “Tulum, Punta Allen & and staff, and the beautiful tropical Sian Ka’an” in chapter 6. surroundings make it the perfect • Rancho Encantado Cottage Resort place to recoup some of the silence (Lago Bacalar; & 800/505-6292 in and slow time lost to the modern the U.S., or 983/101-3358; www. world. See “Of Haciendas & Hotels” encantado.com): The attractive casitas on p. 199. 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 11

THE BEST SHOPPING 11

6 The Best Museums • Museo de la Cultura Maya (Chetu- anthropology museum addresses mal; & 983/832-6838): This mod- Mexican history in the form of ern museum, one of the best in the objects found at archaeological sites, country, explores Maya archaeology, with particular emphasis on the pre- architecture, history, and mythology. Hispanic peoples of the Gulf coast It has interactive exhibits and a glass region. See p. 242. floor that allows visitors to walk above • Parque–Museo La Venta (Villaher- replicas of Maya sites. See p. 175. mosa; & 993/314-1652): The • Museo Regional de Antropología Olmec, considered Mexico’s mother (Mérida; & 999/923-0557): Housed culture, are the subject of this park/ in the Palacio Cantón, one of the museum, which features the mag- most beautiful 19th-century man- nificent stone remains that were sions in the city, this museum show- removed from the La Venta site not cases local archaeology and far away. Stroll through a jungle anthropological studies in handsome setting where tropical birds alight, exhibits. See p. 194. and examine the giant carved stone • Museo Regional de Antropología heads of the mysterious Olmec. Carlos Pellicer Cámara (Villaher- See p. 243. mosa; & 993/312-6344): This

7 The Best Shopping Some tips on bargaining: Although hag- • Precious Gemstones in Isla gling over prices in markets is expected Mujeres: Isla Mujeres, also a duty- and part of the fun, don’t try to browbeat free zone, offers an impressive selec- the vendor or bad-mouth the goods. tion of both precious stones and Vendors won’t bargain with people they superb craftsmen who can make jew- consider disrespectful unless they are elry designs to order. See “Isla desperate to make a sale. Be insistent but Mujeres” in chapter 5. friendly. • Quinta Avenida, Playa del Carmen: • Resort Wear in Cancún: Resort This pedestrian-only street offers clothing—especially if you can find a leisurely shopping at its best—no sale—can be a bargain here. And the cars, no hassle. Simply stroll down selection may be wider than what’s the street and let your eye pick out available at home. Almost every mall objects of interest. Expect a good bit on the island contains trendy bou- of merchandise popular with coun- tiques that specialize in locally terculture types, such as batik cloth- designed and imported clothing. See ing and fabric, Guatemalan textiles, “Shopping” in chapter 4. and inventive jewelry and artwork. • Duty-Free in Cancún: If you’re look- But you’ll also find quality Mexican ing for European perfume, fine handicrafts, premium tequilas, and watches, or other imported goods, Cuban cigars. See “Playa del Car- you’ll find the prices in Cancún’s duty- men” in chapter 6. free shops (at the major malls on the • Mérida: This is the marketplace for island and in downtown Cancún) hard the Yucatán—the best place to buy to beat. See “Shopping” in chapter 4. hammocks, guayaberas, Panama hats, 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN and Yucatecan huipiles. See “Explor- shoes, handsome pottery, and ing Mérida” in chapter 7. Guatemalan textiles. Highland Maya • San Cristóbal de las Casas: Deep in Indians sell direct to tourists from the heart of the Maya highlands, San their armloads of textiles, dolls, and Cristóbal has shops, open plazas, and attractive miniature likenesses of Sub- markets that feature the distinctive comandante Marcos—complete with waist-loomed wool and cotton tex- ski masks. See “San Cristóbal de las tiles of the region, as well as leather Casas” in chapter 8.

8 The Hottest Nightlife Although, as expected, Cancún is the club, offering a Beach Club with a source of much of the Yucatán’s nightlife, wave machine for simulated surfing, that resort city isn’t the only place to have a water slide and beach cabañas, a a good time after dark. Along the Terrace bar serving food and drinks, Caribbean coast, beachside dance floors and the sizzling Club, at which the with live bands and extended happy world’s top DJs have spun through hours in seaside bars dominate the the night until the sun once again nightlife. Here are some favorite hot rises over the turquoise waters. This spots, from live music in hotel lobby bars is truly a City that never sleeps. See to hip techno dance clubs. p. 101. CANCUN • The Lobby Lounge: Tucked inside Cancún’s luxurious Ritz-Carlton, this • Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s & Dady’O: is the most elegant evening spot on These longstanding Cancún favorites the island. Romantic live music, a offer potent drinks, hot music, and selection of fine cigars, and more wild (if sometimes sloppy) dance than 80 premium tequilas (plus tast- floors. For a more subdued setting, La ings) allow you to savor the spirit of Madonna is a fashionable martini bar Mexico. See p. 102. and restaurant in the La Isla Shopping Village, while Bling, with its outdoor RIVIERA MAYA terrace overlooking the lagoon, is • Quinta Avenida (Playa del Car- quickly becoming the city’s most chic men): Stroll along lively, pedestrian- cocktail venue. See chapter 4. only Fifth Avenue to find the bar • Plaza Forum by the Sea: This sea- that’s right for you. With live-music side entertainment center in Cancún venues, tequila bars, sports bars, and has it all: a dazzling array of dance cafes, you’re sure to find something to clubs, sports bars, fast food, and fine fit your mood. See p. 138. dining, with shops open late as well. You’ll find plenty of familiar names CHIAPAS here, including the Hard Rock Cafe • San Cristóbal de las Casas: This and Rainforest Cafe. It’s also the city, small though it may be, has a home of Cancún’s hottest club, live-music scene that can’t be beat CoCo Bongo, which regularly packs for fun and atmosphere. The bars in up to 3,000 revelers. See p. 102. and clubs are all within walking dis- • The City: Arguably Cancún’s hottest tance, and they’re a real bargain. See nightclub, The City (www.thecity “San Cristóbal de las Casas” in cancun.com) is a raging day-and-night chapter 8. 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 13

THE MOST LUXURIOUS HOTELS 13

9 The Most Luxurious Hotels • Royal (Cancún; & 800/760- • Presidente InterContinental 0944 in the U.S., or 998/881-7340; Cozumel (Cozumel; & 800/ www.realresorts.com.mx): Opened in 327-0200 in the U.S., or 987/872- 2007, The Royal is a stunning all- 9500; www.intercontinentalcozumel. inclusive, adults-only resort in which com): Surrounded by shady palms, luxury abounds, from the sprawling this hotel also has the best beach on infinity pools and gorgeous beach to the island, right in front of Paraíso the gourmet restaurants and sophisti- Reef. Favorite rooms are the deluxe cated spa. The elegant marble lobby beachside units with spacious patios looks out one side to the Caribbean and direct access to the beach—you and the other to the lagoon, and the can even order romantic in-room guest suites offer every conceivable dining on the patios, complete with a amenity, including two-person trio to serenade you. See p. 131. Jacuzzis. Guests in the top-category • The Tides Riviera Maya (north of suites have access to BMW Mini Playa del Carmen; & 800/578-0281 Coopers. The all-inclusive package in the U.S.; www.tidesrivieramaya. includes gourmet meals, premium com): Small, secluded, and private, drinks, and evening entertainment. The Tides offers extraordinary per- See p. 85. sonal service and spa treatments. • JW Marriott (Cancún; & 800/ Rooms are spread throughout the 223-6388 in the U.S., or 998/848- jungle, and there’s a beautiful seaside 9600; www.jwmarriottcancun.com): pool and restaurant. See p. 153. This upscale resort affords elegance • Maroma (north of Playa del Carmen; without pretense, combining classic & 866/454-9351 in the U.S.; www. and Caribbean styling with warm maromahotel.com): You can’t ask for Mexican service. The inviting free- a better setting for a resort than this form infinity pool extends to the beautiful stretch of Caribbean coast white-sand beach, and families feel with palm trees and manicured gar- the same comfort here as romance- dens. You’ll start to relax before you seeking couples. The hotel includes a even take the first sip of your wel- spectacular 35,000-square-foot spa. come cocktail. Service is very atten- See p. 82. tive, and the rooms are large and • Ritz-Carlton Cancún (Can- luxurious. See p. 153. cún; & 800/241-3333 in the U.S., • Paraíso de la Bonita (north of Playa or 998/881-0808; www.ritzcarlton. del Carmen; & 866/751-9175 in the com): For years, thick carpets, U.S.; www.paraisodelabonita.com): sparkling glass and brass, and rich Operated by InterContinental Hotels, mahogany have surrounded guests at this resort has a superequipped spa this hotel, the standard-bearer of lux- based on the elaborate system of thalas- ury in Cancún. The service is impec- sotherapy. The guest rooms are elabo- cable, leaving guests with an overall rate, and the hotel provides all kinds of sense of pampered relaxation. Thanks services. It has three pools and an to a multimillion-dollar repair and immaculately kept beach. See p. 153. refurbishment project completed in • Hacienda Xcanatún (outskirts of December 2006, the best is getting Mérida; & 888/883-3633 in the even better. See p. 85. U.S.; www.xcanatun.com): With its 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN large, boldly designed suites built masters the difficult trick of being with extravagance in mind, sprawl- compact in size but nevertheless ing grounds, private spa, excellent expansive in offerings. See “Of restaurant, and ample staff, this hotel Haciendas & Hotels” on p. 198.

10 The Best Inexpensive Inns • Rey del Caribe Hotel (Cancún; comfortable hotel in town, but it is & 998/884-2028; www.reycaribe. by far the most endearing. It exudes com): An inexpensive retreat in character and a sense of timelessness downtown Cancún, this hotel has that relaxes the spirit and transports considered every detail in its quest for guests to an uncomplicated era. And an organic and environmentally for $25, it’s a steal. See p. 225. friendly atmosphere. Set in a tropical • Hotel Real del Valle (San Cristóbal; garden, the Rey del Caribe provides & 967/678-0680): In a city of inex- sunny rooms, warm service, yoga and pensive lodgings, this beats all the meditation classes, and healthful din- other bargain hotels for its combina- ing—all a welcome respite from tion of location, room size, and serv- party-hearty Cancún. See p. 88. ice. See p. 264. • Hotel Ojo de Agua (Puerto More- • Casa San Juan Bed & Breakfast los; & 998/871-0027; www.ojo- (Mérida; & 999/986-2937; www. de-agua.com): If you’re seeking an casasanjuan.com): This B&B, in a inexpensive beach vacation with colonial house in Mérida’s historic plenty of activities, there’s no better district, is the perfect combination of place than this. It’s a rarity—a bar- comfort and character at a great price. gain beach hotel with the watersports The guest rooms in the original build- choices of a large resort. See p. 155. ing evoke an earlier time, while the • Hotel Colonial (Campeche; & 981/ modern rooms in back are quite large 816-2222): Okay, so it’s not the most and border a lovely patio. See p. 201.

11 The Best Unique Inns • Casa de los Sueños (Isla from an exquisite private cove, a tran- Mujeres; & 998/877-0651; www. quil infinity pool, and Isla’s finest casadelossuenosresort.com): This restaurant, this intimate inn also exclusive B&B steeped in vibrant col- pampers guests with every conceiv- ors seems to descend into the cool able in-room amenity. Each unit even Caribbean sea. Its small, but well- has a private Jacuzzi on the balcony appointed, spa “Zenter,” which is and a shower that converts into a also accessible to nonguests, offers steam room. Guests are offered free yoga classes, massages, and holistic transportation from Cancún via the spa treatments, which take place hotel’s private yacht. See p. 113. either outdoors or in a tranquil • Deseo Hotel + Lounge (Playa indoor space. See p. 114. del Carmen; & 984/879-3620; • Hotel Villa Rolandi Gourmet & www.hoteldeseo.com): Perhaps it Beach Club (Isla Mujeres; should be Hotel = Lounge. That & 998/877-0700; www.villarolandi. might be an overstatement, but the com): In addition to being steps away lounge is at the center of everything, 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 15

THE BEST RESTAURANTS 15 making Deseo the perfect fit for out- Breakfast here provides an extra going types who are into an alterna- incentive for getting out of bed. See tive lodging experience. Enjoy a p. 200. cocktail at the bar or on one of the • Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal large daybeds and chill to the mod- de las Casas; & 967/678-1418; www. ern, er, lounge music. See p. 144. nabolom.org): This unique house- • Casa Mexilio (Mérida; & 877/ museum is terrific for anthropology 639-4546 in the U.S. and Canada, buffs. Built as a seminary in 1891, it or 999/928-2505; www.casamexilio. was transformed into the headquarters com): An imaginative arrangement of of two anthropologists. The 12 guest rooms around a courtyard features a rooms, named for surrounding vil- pool surrounded by a riot of tropical lages, are decorated with local objects vegetation. The rooms are divided and textiles; all rooms have fireplaces among different levels for privacy and and private bathrooms, and the room are connected by stairs and catwalks. rate includes breakfast. See p. 258.

12 The Best Restaurants Best doesn’t necessarily mean most luxu- • 100% Natural (Cancún; & 998/ rious. Although some of the restaurants 884-0102): This casual eatery serves listed here are fancy affairs, others are terrific breakfasts and healthy snacks simple places to get fine, authentic throughout the day. Come for one of Yucatecan cuisine. the licuados, drinks made from fresh • Gustino (Cancún; & 998/ fruit mixed with water or milk. The 848-9600): The JW Marriott’s sig- chain offers a wide selection, includ- nature restaurant is a gourmand’s ing innovative mixtures such as the paradise, with fresh seafood, steaks, Cozumel (spinach, pineapple, and and homemade pastas prepared in orange) and the Caligula (orange, the open kitchen using classic Ital- pineapple, beet, celery, parsley, carrot, ian ingredients. The beautiful din- and lime juices)—a healthy indul- ing room makes this one of the gence. Cancún has several branches. city’s most romantic places to dine. See p. 94. See p. 91. • Casa Rolandi (Isla Mujeres; • Labná (Ciudad Cancún; & 998/ & 998/877-0700): This exquisite 892-3056): Steep yourself in tradi- restaurant attached to the Casa tional Yucatecan culture at this down- Rolandi boutique hotel serves the town eatery, which showcases Mayan island’s finest cuisine. The open-air cuisine and music. The Labná Special establishment sits adjacent to the samples four of the region’s best Caribbean and offers wonderful fresh dishes, including baked suckling pig fish, seafood, and pastas. See p. 116. with guacamole. See p. 94. • Cabaña del Pescador (Cozumel; • Lorenzillo’s (Cancún; & 998/ no phone): If you want an ideally sea- 883-1254): Pick your lobster right soned, succulent lobster dinner, out of the lagoon in this longtime Cabaña del Pescador (Lobster House) Cancún favorite and have it prepared is the place. If you want anything else, any way you like. Seafood is the spe- you’re out of luck—lobster dinner, cialty here, and the popular restau- expertly prepared, is all it serves. rant sits under a huge palapa roof. When you’ve achieved perfection, why See p. 90. bother with anything else? See p. 132. 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN

• Prima (Cozumel; & 987/ • La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/ 872-4242): The Italian food here is 811-3365): Campeche’s regional spe- fresh, fresh, fresh—from the hydro- cialty is seafood, and nowhere else ponically grown vegetables to the will you find seafood like this. Mexi- pasta and garlic bread. And it’s all can caviar, coconut-battered shrimp, prepared after you walk in, most of it and chiles stuffed with shark are by owner Albert Domínguez, who just a few of the unique specialties. concocts unforgettable shrimp fettuc- Thinking about La Pigua’s pompano cine with pesto, crab ravioli with in a fine green herb sauce makes me cream sauce, and crisp house salad in want to start checking flight sched- a chilled bowl. See p. 133. ules. See p. 226. • Media Luna (Playa del • Yaxché (Playa del Carmen; & 984/ Carmen; & 984/873-0526): The 873-2502): No restaurant in the inviting atmosphere of this sidewalk Yucatán explores the region’s culinary cafe on Avenida 5 is enough to traditions and use of local ingredients lure you in. The expertly executed more than this one. Its menu presents and innovative menu, together with several pleasant surprises and is a wel- great prices, makes it one of the come relief from the standard offer- top choices on the Caribbean coast. ings of most Yucatecan restaurants. See p. 150. See p. 147.