The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán
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05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 5 1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán by David Baird & Juan Cristiano The Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of Mexico. Its tremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unrivaled mix of sophisti- cated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya culture, exquisite beaches, and exhilarating adventures. Between the two of us, we’ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing the peninsula, and these are our personal favorites—the best places to visit, the best hotels and restaurants, plus must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences. 1 The Best Beach Vacations • Cancún: Despite extensive damage Playa Norte. Here you’ll find calm from Hurricane Wilma in late 2005, waters and palapa restaurants, where relief came quickly, and by 2007 you can have fresh-caught fish for most of this city resort had been lunch. You’re close to great diving and rebuilt to look even better than snorkeling just offshore, as well as Isla before. In terms of sheer beauty, Can- Contoy National Park, which fea- cún has always been the site of Mexi- tures great bird life and its own dra- co’s most alluring beaches. The matic, uninhabited beach. If all that powdery, white-sand beaches boast tranquillity starts to get to you, you’re water the color of a Technicolor only a ferry ride away from the action dream; it’s so clear that you can see in Cancún. See chapter 5. through to the coral reefs below. Can- • Cozumel: It may not have lots of big, cún offers the widest assortment of sandy beaches, but Cozumel has luxury beachfront hotels, with more something the mainland doesn’t: the restaurants, nightlife, and activities calm, flat waters of the sheltered than any other resort destination in western shore. It’s so easy that it’s like the country. See chapter 4. swimming in an aquarium. Cozumel • Isla Mujeres:COPYRIGHTEDIf laid-back is what also MATERIAL has lots to see under the water. you’re after, this idyllic island affords See chapter 5. peaceful, small-town beach life at its • Playa del Carmen: This is one of our best. Most accommodations are absolute favorite Mexican beach vaca- smaller, inexpensive inns, with a few tions. Stylish and hip, Playa del Car- unique, luxurious places tossed in. men has a beautiful beach and an Bike—or take a golf cart—around eclectic assortment of small hotels, the island to explore rocky coves and inns, and cabañas. The social scene sandy beaches, or focus your tanning focuses on the beach by day and the efforts on the wide beachfront of pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN Mexico TijuanaTijuana MexicaliMexicali UNITEDUNITED STATESSTATES UNITED STATES EnsenadaEnsenada 2 BAJABAJA CiudadCiudad CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA JuárezJuárez NORTENORTE PuertoPuerto NogalesNogales PenascoPenasco 2 SanSan QuintinQuintin 45 SONORASONORA 15 1 10 OjinagaOjinaga HermosilloHermosillo CHIHUAHUACHIHUAHUA GuerreroGuerrero 18 Piedras Negras IslaIsla NegroNegro 16 ChihuahuaChihuahua CedrosCedros 16 CuidadCuidad CuauhtémocCuauhtémoc COAHUILACOAHUILA SantaSanta ObregónObregón RosaliaRosalia DeliciasDelicias Nuevo Laredo MulegéMulegé BAJABAJA HidalgoHidalgo MonclovaMonclova CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA deldel ParralParral SURSUR 49 30 LoretoLoreto 57 SINALOASINALOA 45 Monterrey LosLos TorreónTorreón 40 Matamoros MochisMochis DURANGODURANGO SaltilloSaltillo CuliacánCuliacán NUEVO 1 LEÓN LaLa PazPaz 15 SeaSea ofof CortésCortés DurangoDurango TAMAULIPAS 40 SanSan JoséJosé FresnilloFresnillo 54 Ciudad Victoria TodosTodos SantosSantos deldel CaboCabo MazatlánMazatlán ZACATECASZACATECAS CaboCabo SanSan LucasLucas ZacatecasZacatecas SanSan Ciudad Mante 15 LuisLuis PotosíPotosí Tampico Río Lagartos Isla TuxpanTuxpan AGUASCALIENTESAGUASCALIENTES SAN LUIS SanSan BlasBlas Progreso Mujeres TepicTepic POTOSÍ Valladolid AguascalientesAguascalientes Cancún IslasIslas San Miguel Tuxpan NAYARITNAYARIT LeónLeón de Allende Celestún MariasMarias Mérida Cozumel GuadalajaraGuadalajara QUERÉTARO GuanajuatoGuanajuato Poza Rica YUCATÁN Playa del PuertoPuerto VallartaVallarta Carmen GUANA-GUANA- HIDALGO Papantla Querétaro Campeche Punta JALISCOJALISCO LakeLake ChapalaChapala JUATOJUATO Pachuca QUINTANA Allen MoreliaMorelia Bay of BarraBarra dede NavidadNavidad UruapanUruapan Mexico City Xalapa CAMPECHE ROO Toluca TLAXCALA Campeche Bacalar ColimaColima Tlaxcala Veracruz Majahual ManzanilloManzanillo PátzcuaroPátzcuaro Cuernavaca Puebla Escárcega Peninsula MICHOACANMICHOACAN COLIMACOLIMA PUEBLA Orizaba Catemaco Chetumal 37 MORELOS TABASCO 200 Tehuacán Taxco VERACRUZ Villahermosa LázaroLázaro Coatzacoalcos GUERRERO Palenque CárdenasCárdenas BELIZE San Cristóbal ZihuatanejoZihuatanejo Oaxaca Tuxtla & IxtapaIxtapa Acapulco Gutiérrez de las Casas OAXACA PACIFICP A C I F I C CHIAPAS Salina Comitan OCEANO C E A N Puerto Escondido Cruz GUATEMALA Huatulco Puerto Ángel HONDURAS Tapachula EL SALVADOR 0 150 mi N 0 150 km 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 7 THE BEST BEACH VACATIONS 7 Tijuana Mexicali UNITED STATES UNITEDUNITED STATESSTATES Ensenada BAJA Ciudad CALIFORNIA Juárez NORTE Puerto Nogales Penasco San Quintin SONORA Ojinaga Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA Guerrero PiedrasPiedras NegrasNegras Isla Negro Chihuahua Cedros Cuidad Cuauhtémoc COAHUILA Santa Obregón Rosalia Delicias NuevoNuevo LaredoLaredo Mulegé BAJA Hidalgo Monclova CALIFORNIA del Parral SUR 85D Loreto Gulf of Mexico SINALOA MonterreyMonterrey Los Torreón MatamorosMatamoros Mochis DURANGO Saltillo 180 Culiacán NUEVONUEVO LEÓNLEÓN 85 La Paz Sea of Cortés Durango TAMAULIPASTAMAULIPAS San José Fresnillo CiudadCiudad VictoriaVictoria Todos Santos del Cabo Mazatlán ZACATECAS Cabo San Lucas Zacatecas San Luis CiudadCiudad ManteMante Potosí TampicoTampico RíoRío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla Tuxpan AGUASCALIENTES SANSAN LUISLUIS San Blas ProgresoProgreso MujeresMujeres Tepic POTOSÍPOTOSÍ ValladolidValladolid Aguascalientes CancúnCancún Islas SanSan MiguelMiguel TuxpanTuxpan 180 NAYARIT León dede AllendeAllende CelestúnCelestún Marias MéridaMérida CozumelCozumel Guadalajara QUERÉTAROQUERÉTARO Guanajuato PozaPoza RicaRica YUCATÁNYUCATÁN PlayaPlaya deldel Puerto Vallarta CarmenCarmen GUANA- HIDALGOHIDALGO PapantlaPapantla QuerétaroQuerétaro CampecheCampeche PuntaPunta JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO PachucaPachuca 180 QUINTANAQUINTANA AllenAllen Morelia BayBay ofof Barra de Navidad Uruapan MexicoMexico CityCity XalapaXalapa CAMPECHECAMPECHE ROOROO TolucaToluca TLAXCALATLAXCALA CampecheCampeche BacalarBacalar Colima TlaxcalaTlaxcala VeracruzVeracruz 261 MajahualMajahual Manzanillo Pátzcuaro CuernavacaCuernavaca PueblaPuebla EscárcegaEscárcega PeninsulaPeninsula MICHOACAN COLIMA PUEBLAPUEBLA OrizabaOrizaba CatemacoCatemaco ChetumalChetumal MORELOSMORELOS TABASCOTABASCO TehuacánTehuacán TaxcoTaxco 95 VERACRUZVERACRUZ VillahermosaVillahermosa 186 Lázaro 190D CoatzacoalcosCoatzacoalcos GUERREROGUERRERO 175 PalenquePalenque Cárdenas BELIZEBELIZE 186 SanSan CristóbalCristóbal Caribbean Zihuatanejo OaxacaOaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla & Ixtapa AcapulcoAcapulco GutiérrezGutiérrez dede laslas CasasCasas Sea 200 OAXACAOAXACA P A C I F I C CHIAPASCHIAPAS SalinaSalina ComitanComitan O C E A N PuertoPuerto EscondidoEscondido CruzCruz GUATEMALAGUATEMALA HuatulcoHuatulco 200 PuertoPuerto Gulf of ÁngelÁngel Tehuantepec HONDURASHONDURAS TapachulaTapachula ELEL SALVADORSALVADOR 05_145739 ch01.qxp 8/9/07 9:51 PM Page 8 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCUN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATAN (Fifth Avenue) by night, with its fun small palapa hotels offer guests a little assortment of restaurants, clubs, side- slice of paradise far from the crowds walk cafes, and shops. You’re also and megaresorts. The bustling town close to the coast’s major attractions, lies inland; at the coast, things are including nature parks, ruins, and quiet and will remain so because all cenotes (sinkholes or natural wells). these hotels are small and must gen- Cozumel Island is just a quick ferry erate their own electricity. If you can trip away. Enjoy it while it’s still a pull yourself away from the beach, manageable size. See chapter 6. nearby are ruins to explore and a vast • Tulum: Fronting some of the best nature preserve. See chapter 6. beaches on the entire coast, Tulum’s 2 The Best Cultural Experiences • Exploring the Inland Yucatán • San Cristóbal de las Casas: The city Peninsula: Travelers who venture only of San Cristóbal is a living museum, to the Yucatán’s resorts and cities miss with 16th-century colonial architec- the rock-walled inland villages, where ture and pre-Hispanic native influ- women wear colorful embroidered ences. The highland Maya live in dresses and life seems to proceed as surrounding villages and arrive daily though the modern world (with the in town wearing colorful handmade exception of highways) didn’t exist. clothing. The villages are a window The adventure of seeing newly uncov- into another world, giving visitors a ered ruins, deep in jungle settings, is glimpse of traditional Indian dress, not to be missed. See chapters 6 and 7. religious customs, churches, and cer- • Street & Park Entertainment emonies. See chapter 8. (Mérida): Few cities have so vibrant a • Regional Cuisine: A trip to the street scene as Mérida. Throughout Yucatán allows for a culinary tour of the week you can catch music and some of Mexico’s finest foods. Don’t dance performances in plazas about miss specialties such as pollo or town, and on Sunday, Mérida really cochinita pibil (chicken or pork in gets going—streets are closed off, savory achiote sauce), great seafood