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Central America on a Shoestring

Central America on a Shoestring

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Index

ABBE R VIATions Antigua (Gua) 108-21, Chenes (Mex) 69 Ruinase d . Bel 110-11, 2 Chichén Itzá (Mex) 15, (El) S 314 Cos Costa Rica accommodations 115-16 51-4, 15, 52-3 Ruta Puuc (Mex) 55 Ell S E Salvador activities 113 ruins (Mex) 72 (Mex) 63 Gua attractions 109-13 Cihuatán (El S) 302 San Miguelito (Mex) 43 Hon courses 113 Cobá (Mex) 67-8 (Gua) 10, 82, 200-7, , Mex drinking & entertainment Copán Archaeological 11 202-3 118-19 Site (Hon) 16, 384-8, Toniná (Mex) 72 Nic Nicaragua food 116-18 385, 16 Ruins (Mex) 65 Pan Panama safe travel 119 Dzibilchaltún (Mex) 55 Uaxactún (Gua) 207-9 shopping 119 Edzná (Mex) 69 (Mex) 55 A tours 114-15 Ek’ Balam (Mex) 66 (Bel) 260 accommodations 728-9, see travel to/from & within El Baúl (Gua) 165 Yamil Lu’um (Mex) 43 also individual locations 120-1 El Cedral (Mex) 63 Yaxchilán (Mex) 84 activities 729-30, see also Apaneca (El S) 318-19 (Gua) 209 Yaxhá (Gua) 208 individual locations & Arcatao (El S) 340 activities El Perú (Gua) 208 (Gua) 158 archaeological museums (Bel) 254, 256 Zona Arqueológica El Rey (Bel) 258 Gran Museo del Mundo (Gua) 208 (Mex) 43-90 Maya (Mex) 55 Ahuachapán (El S) 314-16 Huellase d Acahualinca Archipiélago de Bocas del Mi Museo (Nic) 457 Toro (Pan) 10, 680-92, air travel 738-9, 740-1, see (Nic) 443 also individual locations Museo Cultura Cotzumal- Islae d Ometepe . 682-3, 10 guapa (Gua) 166 Ak’Txumbal (Gua) 144 petroglyphs 472 Archipiélago de Las Perlas Museoe d Escultura (Pan) 661 Alajuela (Cos) 546-50 Ixcún (Gua) 194 (Hon) 386 Archipiélago de San Blás Aldea Loma Linda (Gua) 163 Iximché (Gua) 131 Museoe d Oro . K’umarcaaj (Gua) 142 (Pan), see eComarca d Alegría ) (El S 324-5 Precolombino y . Kuna Yala (Bel) 246 Almirante (Pan) 692 Numismática (Cos) 532 area codes (Bel) 273 Altagracia (Nic) 474-5 Museol E Baúl (Gua) 165 351 (Gua) 170 Altuna H (Bel) 17, 245-6, 17 Museo Lítico (Gua) 205 Guatemala 222 Monte Alto (Gua) 167 Amapala (Hon) 426 Museo Maya de Cancún Honduras 435 Monumento Nacional Ambergris Caye (Bel) 240-5 (Mex) 43-90 Arqueológico Guayabo Mexico8 8 animals, see wildlife-watching, Museo Regional de . Nicaragua 524 Arqueología (Gua) 167 (Cos) 556 turtles Panama 721 Museo Regional de . Nimi L Punit (Bel) 274 anthropology museums Área Protegida Cerro . Arqueología (Hon) 370 (Bel) 259 Gulisi Garifuna Museum Tisey-Estanzuela . (Bel) 263 Museo Regional del Sur- Ruins (Mex) 13, (Nic) 495-6 estee d Petén (Gua) 194 80-1, 81, 13 Museoea d l Medicina Área Protegida Miraflor Maya (Mex) 73 Museo Tikal (Gua) 205 Palmar (Cos) 617 (Nic)5 49 Museo Nacional de Antro- archaeological sites 24 Panamá Viejo Ruins Argueta, Manlio 345 (Pan) 644 pología David J Guzmán Altuna H (Bel) 17, . Arrué, Salvador Efraín (El) S 288 245-6, 17 Parque Arqueológico Salazar 345 (Gua) 164 Museo Popol Vuh (Gua) 96 Bilbao Stones (Gua) 166 art galleries, see galleries Parque Eco-Arqueológico Museo Regional de . (Mex) 84 Asturias, Miguel Ángel . Los Naranjos (Hon) 374 Antropología (Mex) 55 (Bel) 254 214 Ruinase d Quelepa (El S) (Mex) 69 Ataco ) (El S 319-20 328-54 (Bel) 258 ATMs 733 Map Pages 000 Ruinase d San Andrés . Ceibal (Gua) 191 Belize 278 Photo Pages 000 (El) S 303 (Bel) 248 Costa Rica 631 755 El Salvador 351 Playa El Toro (Pan) 664 Uvita (Cos) 613 Macaw Mountain (Hon) Guatemala 220 Playa El Tunco (El S) 16, Wizard Beach (Pan) 690 383-4 Honduras 435 305, 16 Belén (Hon) 424 Monumento Nacional Mexico 87 Playa El Zonte (El S) 307 Belén Gualcho (Hon) 390 Arqueológico Guayabo (Cos) 556 Nicaragua 523 Playa Espadilla (Cos) 610 Belize 227-82, 230-1 Panama 717 Panama 720 Playa Espadilla Sur accommodations 277

Panama IN Ávila, Pedro Arias de 710 (Cos) 610 arts 275-6

Discovery Center D Awas (Nic) 503 Playa Esteron (El S) 332 climate 227, 277 659-60 E

Playa Gigante (Nic) 477 X Ayapal (Nic) 498 culture 275 Parque Nacional Chirripó Playa Hermosa (Cos)  A-B disabilities, travelers (Cos) 616 606 with 280 Parque Nacional Isla B Playa Hermosa (Nic) embassies & consulates Bahía de Jiquilisco (El S) Contoy (Mex) 48 481 277 326-7 Parque Nacional Laguna Playa Jaguey (El S) 332 food & drink 228 Bahía Drake (Cos) 617-19 del Tigre (Gua) 208 Playa Jiquilillo (Nic) 490 gay & lesbian . Balgüe (Nic) 475 Parque Nacional Palo Playa Las Lajas (Pan) travelers 277 Verde (Cos) 586 banana republics 429, 625 672 highlights 230-1 Parque Nacional Rincón Barra de Santiago (El S) Playa Las Tunas (El history 274-5 de la Vieja (Cos) 589 16, 320 S) 332 landscape & wildlife 276 Parque Nacional . Barranco (Bel) 273 Playa (Nic) 480 money 278 Soberanía (Pan) 659 bathrooms 735 Playa Majahual . planning 37 Parque Nacional . Bay Islands (Hon) 12, . (El S) 333 safe travel 279 (Cos) 408-23, 409, 12 Playa Manuel Antonio 557, 31 beaches 24 (Cos) 610 travel to/from 228, 280-1 Parque Natural Metro- Boca del Drago (Pan) 681 Playa Marsella (Nic) 480 politano (Pan) 645 travel within 281-2 Camp Bay Beach (Hon) Playa Nancite (Cos) 590 Perquín (El S) 335 women travelers 280 416 Playa (Cos) 590 Playa Jiquilillo (Nic) 490 Belize City 229-36, . Chepes Beach (Hon) 418 Playa Negra (Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de . 232, 234 El Bluff (Nic) 501 Cos) 562 Sarapiquí (Cos) 584-5 accommodations 229 Great Corn Island (Nic) Playa Negra (Puerto Refugio de Vida Silvestre 504-6 Viejo de Talamanca, attractions 229 Isla Taboga y Urabá Isla Grande (Pan) 697 Cos) 567 drinking & entertain- (Pan) 660 ment 233 Isla Taboga (Pan) 660 Playa Negra (Tamarindo, Reserva Biológica Cos) 598-9 food 232-3 La Garita (Pan) 664 Bosque Nuboso . Playa Negra (Hon) 426 shopping 233 Monteverde (Cos) 14, La Playita (Cos) 610 Playa Ocotal (Cos) 591 travel to/from 235-6 572, 14 Las Peñitas (Nic) 489 Playa Palancar (Mex) 63 travel within 236 Reserva Natural Punta Little Corn Island (Nic) Playa Platanares (Cos) Belmopan (Bel) 251-4 Patiño (Pan) 707 506, 7 619 Río Platanares (Cos) 619 Montezuma (Cos) 601 Bermudian Landing (Bel) Playa Popoyo (Nic) 477 245 Sarteneja (Bel) 251 Parque Nacional Cahuita Tikal (Gua) 205 (Cos) 562 Playa Punch (Pan) 682 bicycle travel, see cycling Blue Creek (Bel) 273 Playa Aserradores (Nic) Playa Quehueche (Gua) Bilwi (Nic) 507-8 489-90 187 Biotopo del Quetzal (Gua) National Park Playa Barqueta (Pan) Playa Remanso (Nic) 170-1 (Bel) 240, 261, 23 670 480 Biotopo Mario Dary Rivera, Bluefields (Nic) 501-3 Playa Blanca (Gua) 187 Playa Sámara (Cos) see Biotopo del Quetzal boat travel 740, 741, see 599-600 Playa Bluff (Pan) 681 bird-watching, see also individual locations Playa San Josecito also wildlife-watching Playa Bonita (Cos) 560 Boca de Sábalos (Nic) 511 (Cos) 618 Biotopo Monterrico- Playa Cocalito (Cos) 618 Bocas del Toro Province Playa Tamarindo (Cos) Hawaii (Gua) 168 (Pan) 679-93, see also Playa Cocalito (Hon) 397 594-8, 596 Bosque Eterno de . Archipiélago de Bocas Playa Cocles (Cos) 567 Playa Tamarindo (Nic) los Niños (Cos) 572 del Toro Playa del Coco (Cos) 480 Celestún (Mex) 55 Bocas del Toro Town (Pan) 591-4 Playa Venao (Pan) 665 Cerro Alux (Gua) 121 681-9, 684 Playa El Coco (Nic) 481 Poneloya (Nic) 489 Finca La Isla (Cos) 567 Bolas de Fuego (El S) 27 Playa El Cuco (El S) 332 Red Frog Beach (Pan) Honduras 432 Bonampak (Mex) 84 Playa El Espino . 690 Isla Barro Colorado Boquete (Pan) 672-7, (El S) 325 Reserva Natural Absoluta (Pan) 660 674, 32 Playa El Istmito (Pan) Cabo Blanco (Cos) Lago de Yojoa (Hon) 373 border crossings 739, 740 682 603-4 Lancetilla Jardín Belize–Guatemala 281-2 Playa El Sunzal . Tulate (Gua) 166 Botánico (Hon) 397 Belize–Honduras 281-2 (El S) 307 756 border crossings continued Caño Negro (Cos) 35, 584 Azul (Mex) Cooperativa RAOS Belize–Mexico 281-2 canoeing & kayaking 64, 65 (Hon) 372 CA-4 agreement 736 Bahía Drake (Cos) 618 Cenote Dzitnup (Mex) 51 Costa Rica 625 Costa Rica–Nicaragua Isla Colón (Pan) 681 Cenote Samulá (Mex) 51 Finca El Cisne (Hon) 384 634 Jacó (Cos) 606 Cenote Zací (Mex) 51 Finca Santa Leticia . Costa Rica–Panama 635 La Fortuna (Cos) 581 Cristalino Cenote (El S) 318

IN El Salvador–Costa Lago de Atitlán (Gua) 123 (Mex) 64 Finca Santa Margarita

D (Gua) 173 Rica 352 Panama 717 Cuzamá (Mex) 55 E Matagalpa (Nic) 498 X X El Salvador–Guatemala Parque Nacional . El Jardín del Edén

B-C 353 Tortuguero (Cos) 557 (Mex) 64 Reserva Natural Volcán  (Nic) 465 El Salvador–Honduras 353 Playa Santo Domingo Gran Cenote (Mex) 67  El Salvador–Nicaragua (Nic) 475 San Ramón (Nic) 499 352 Puerto Viejo de . basics 18-19 Cojutepeque (El S) 323 Guatemala–Belize 225 Sarapiquí (Cos) 584 itineraries 28-35 Colón (Pan) 693-5 Guatemala–El Salvador Río Cangrejal (Hon) 403 travel to/from 19, colonial cities 23-4 224 Río Sarapiquí (Cos) 583 738-40 Comarca de Kuna Yala Guatemala–Honduras San Ignacio (Bel) 256 travel within 740-2 (Pan) 698-702 224 Turrialba (Cos) 554 Central Valley & Highlands Comayagua (Hon) 369-71 Guatemala–Mexico 225 (Hon) 420 (Cos) 546-71, 548-9 Concepción Quezaltepeque Honduras–El Salvador 437 (El S) 340 canyoning 554 Cerro Chirripó (Cos) 616 Honduras–Guatemala Cerro El Pital (El S) 341 (El S) 330 436-7 Caracol (Bel) 258 Cerro Punta (Pan) 678 consulates 731, see also Honduras–Nicaragua 437 Carazo Towns (Nic) 467 individual countries Carnaval (Mex) 25 Chalatenango (El S) Mexico–Guatemala 82 339-40 Contra War 515-16 Nicaragua–Costa Rica 525 car travel 739-40, 742, see Copán Archaeological Site also individual locations Chalchuapa (El S) 314 Nicaragua–El Salvador (Hon) 16, 384-8, 385, 16 Cartago (Cos) 552-3 Champerico (Gua) 164 526 Copán Ruinas (Hon) 378- Casco Viejo (Pan) 639-44 Changuinola (Pan) 692 Nicaragua–Honduras 526 83, 379 Chapín Abajo (Gua) 34, 182 Panama–Colombia 724 Catarina (Nic) 466 Corn Islands, see Great Chiapas (Mex) 72-85, Panama–Costa Rica 724 caves Corn Island, Little Corn Actun Tunichil Muknal 74-5, see also Mexico’s Island budget 19 Yucatán & Chiapas (Bel) 258 Corozal (Bel) 248-50, 249 bus travel, see also Chichén Itzá (Mex) 15, 51-4, Corral de Mulas (El S) individual locations 15, 52-3 (Bel) 259 326-30 fares 742 Chichicastenango (Gua) Centro Turístico Cueva Cosigüina Peninsula (Nic) to/from Central America 138-42, de las Minas (Gua) 179 29 489-91 739 children, travel with 629 Che Chem Ha (Bel) 256 Costa del Sol (El S) 291 within Central America Chinchilla, Laura 627 741 Cuevas de Ak’tun Kan Costa Rica 528-636, 530-1 (Gua) 194 Chiquimula (Gua) 177-8 business hours 733, see accommodations 629 Cuevas de Taulabé Chiquistepeque (Gua) 166 also individual locations children, travel with 629 (Hon) 373 Chitré (Pan) 663 climate 528 Gibnut Cave (Bel) 273 Choluteca (Hon) 426 disabilities, travelers Grutas de Lanquín C Cihuatán (El S) 302 with 633 Cacaopera (El S) 333-4 (Gua) 175 Cinquera (El S) 338 embassies & consulates La Cueva del Gigante Cahuita (Cos) 562-6, 564-5 civil wars 629 (Hon) 372 Caldera (Pan) 670 Costa Rica 626 food & drink 529, 630 Loltún (Mex) 55 Campeche (Mex) 68-72, 70-1 El Salvador 334, 336, gay & lesbian travelers Nivida Bat Cave (Pan) Cañas (Cos) 585 343 541, 630 690 Cancún (Mex) 43-8, 46 Guatemala 131, 138, highlights 530 Río Frio Cave (Bel) 259 accommodations 43-5 209, 211 history 624-7 St Herman’s Cave (Bel) Nicaragua 512, 516 attractions 43 261 itineraries 529 drinking & nightlife 47 climate 18, see also landscape & wildlife 628 Tiger Cave (Bel) 272 individual countries food 45-7 money 631 Caye Caulker (Bel) 14, . Cobá (Mex) 67-8 shopping 47 236-40, 238, 14 planning 38 Cobán (Gua) 171-5, 172-3 travel to/from 48 Cayos Cochinos (Hon) 405 safe travel 632 Cocobila (Hon) 424 travel within 48 Celestún (Mex) 55 travel to/from 529, Cocop (Gua) 144 cell phones 735 634-5 coffee travel within 635-6 Boquete 673 Costa Rican Independence Map Pages Blue Hole National Park 000 Chicoj Cooperative Day 27, 553 Photo Pages (Bel) 261, 23 000 (Gua) 173 Cotzal (Gua) 144 757 Coxen Hole (Hon) 416 Little Corn Island (Nic) history 342-5 Día de Bastimentos Crooked Tree (Bel) 246 506 itineraries 284 (Pan) 685 Cubulco (Gua) 170 Los Cóbanos (El S) . landscapes & wildlife Día de Juan Santamaria customs regulations 730, 320 346-8 (Cos) 26, 546 see also individual Museo Subacuático de money 350 Día de la Purísima . countries Arte (Mex) 43 planning 37 Concepción (Nic) 486 cycling 729, 741 Panama 717 religion 345 Día de la Virgen de IN Merced (Nic) 486 Antigua (Gua) 113 (Bel) 266 travel to/from 284, D Día de la Virgen del . E

Isla Colón (Pan) 681 352-3 X (Mex) 59 Carmen (Pan) 685 Lago de Atitlán (Gua) 123 travel within 353-4  C

Día de los Muertos -F Montezuma (Cos) 601 Playa del Coco (Cos) . visas & documents 352  Mex) 27) 591 Puerto Viejo de . women travelers 352 Día de Todos los Santos Talamanca (Cos) 567 Puerto Viejo de Tala- manca (Cos) 567 El Transito (Nic) 490 (Gua) 27, 162 Quetzaltenango (Gua) 147 Refugio Nacional de Vida El Trapiche (Nic) 447-8 Envision Festival (Cos) San Cristóbal de las Silvestre Gandoca- El Triunfo de la Cruz (Hon) 611 Casa (Mex) 73 Manzanillo (Cos) 571 398 Feast of Santo Tomás Tours Ciclista de . Roatán (Hon) 411 (Pan) 662-3 (Gua) 140 Montaña (El S) 335 San Juan del Sur (Nic) electricity 731 Feast of the Immaculate 477 embassies & consulates Conception (Gua) 140 D (El S) 290 731, see also individual Fería de Cultura de las Dalton, Roque 345 Santa Catalina (Pan) countries Flores y las Palmas (Cos) 26, 303 dangers, see safety 666-9 Escuintla (Gua) 167-8 Esquipulas (Gua) 178-80 Feria de San José de Dangriga (Bel) 261-4, 262 Santa Cruz La Laguna (Gua) 137 Estanzuela (Gua) 177 David (Pan) 669 Darién Province (Pan) Feria del Mar (Pan) 685 702-9, 704 Tulum (Mex) 65 Estelí (Nic) 491-5, 492 Utila (Hon) 12, 418 etiquette 21 Feria Titular de San David 668-71, 669 Miguel Arcángel Desfile de Bufos (Gua) 25 Dominical (Cos) 611-12 events, see festivals & (Gua) 157 events Día de Juan Santamaria driving, see car travel Festival de Cristo Negro (Cos) 26, 546 exchange rates 731 (Pan) 696 Día de los Muertos E Festival de Diablos y (Mex) 27 El Boquerón (El S) 303 F Congos (Pan) 25, 696 Día de Todos los Santos El Castillo (Nic) 512 Far East (Hon) 416 Festival de Invierno . (Gua) 27, 162 (El S) 27 El Estor (Gua) 185 Fería de Cultura de las Diria (Nic) 467 Festival de Montaña . El Manzano (El S) 340 Flores y las Palmas Diriamba (Nic) 467 (Cos) 26, 303 (El S) 335 El Mirador (Gua) 209 disabilities, travelers with Fernandez, Juan Mora 625 Festival of San Juan El Mozote (El S) 336 735-6 Ferrer, José Figueres 626 Bautista (Pan) 698 El Ostional (Nic) 481 Belize 280 Festival de Diablos y . Festival of Santo El Petén (Gua) 191-209, Costa Rica 633 Congos (Pan) 25, 696 Domingo de Guzman 192-3 (Nic) 444-5 El Salvador 351 Festival de Invierno . El Pino (Hon) 404 Festival Tradicional de Guatemala 223 (El S) 27 El Real (Pan) 706-7 Danza (Gua) 157 Honduras 436 festivals & events Fiesta de La Virgen del El Remate (Gua) 199-200 Annual Taxi Grand Prix Nicaragua 524 Mar (Cos) 591 El Rosario (Hon) 369 (Nic) 444-5 Panama 722 Fiesta de San Francisco El Salvador 283-354, 286-7 Apparition of the diving 22, 729, see de Asís (Gua) 155 also accommodations 348 Archangel Michael (Gua) 157 Fiesta del Mar (Pan) 661 Archipiélago de Las activities 348 Bolas de Fuego (El S) 27 Fiestas de Agosto (Nic) Perlas (Pan) 661 arts 345-6 461 Carnaval (El S) 329 Bay Islands (Hon) 12, climate 283 Fiestas Elenas (Gua) 142 410, Carnaval (Hon) 399 12 culture 345 Fiestas Patronales . Carnaval (Mex) 25 Blue Hole (Bel) 240 dangers & annoyances (El S) 329 Carnaval (Pan) 698 Caye Caulker (Bel) 236 349 Fundación de la Provincia Cayos Cochinos (Hon) disabilities, travelers Copán Ruinas fair (Hon) de Bocas del Toro 405 with 351 380 (Pan) 685 Great Corn Island (Nic) embassies & consulates Costa Rican Independ- Garifuna National Day 505 349 ence Day 27, 553 (Gua) 188 Isla Colón (Pan) 680 food & drink 284 Day of the Revolution Garifuna Settlement Day Isla (Mex) 63 gay & lesbian . (Nic) 444-5 (Bel) 27, 261 Isla Grande (Pan) 697 travelers 350 Desfile de Bufos (Gua) Inmaculada Concepción 25 (Mex) 49 highlights 286-7 (Nic) 461 758 festivals & events continued G embassies & consulates Nebaj (Gua) 143 International Poetry galleries 217 Panama 717 Festival (Nic) 461 El Arbol de Dios . food & drink 92, 217-18 Parque Internacional . La Feria de San Isidro (El S) 288 gay & lesbian . La Amistad (Pan) 679 (Hon) 26 Galería La Pinacoteca . travelers 218 Parque Nacional Braulio La Gritería Chiquita (El S) 288 highlights 94 Carrillo (Cos) 551

IN (Nic) 486 Galería Nacional de Arte history 210-12 Parque Nacional Chirripó

D Las Fiestas de Zapote (Hon) 357 itineraries 92 (Cos) 616 E (Cos) 27, 536 Parque Nacional Corco-

X X Memorias Frágiles (Hon) landscapes & wildlife Lobsterfest (Bel) 26, 266 380 vado (Cos) 620-1 F-H 214-16  Los Fiestas de Azuero Museo de Arte Contem- planning 36 Parque Nacional Cusuco (Pan) 663 poráneo (Pan) 639 religion 213-14 (Hon) 378 May Day (Pan) 685 Museo de Arte de El resources 92 Parque Nacional El Mistletoe Ball (Bel) 266 Salvador (El S) 288 Imposible (El S) 316, safe travel 221 321-3 Nicaraguan Baseball Museo de Arte Fun- travel to/from 92, 224-5 Championship 25 dación Ortiz-Guardián Parque Nacional Manuel travel within 225 Noche de Agüizotes (Nic) 482 Antonio (Cos) 610 (Nic) 27, 468 Museo de Arte y Diseño visas & documents 223 Parque Nacional . Nogapope (Pan) 27 Contemporáneo (Cos) women travelers 224 Montaña de Celaque (Hon) 392 Nuestra Señora del . 532 Guatemala City 93-108, Carmen (Pan) 661 Museo Nacional de Arte 98, 100-1 Parque Nacional Mon- Moderno (Gua) 97 accommodations 97-9 taña de Comayagua Palo de Mayo (Nic) (Hon) 370 26, 502 Garifuna drinking & entertain- communities 187-91, 273, ment 102-3 Parque Nacional Rincón Panama Jazz Festival 25 de la Vieja (Cos) 589 Placencia Arts Festival 397-8, 405, 424, 503 food 99-102 culture 263, 265, 357, 432 safety 104 Parque Nacional . (Bel) 266 Soberanía (Pan) 659 festivals 188, 261, 394, 408 shopping 103 Quema del Diablo (Gua) Parque Nacional Tortu- music 189, 394 140 travel to/from 104-6 guero (Cos) 557 Garifuna Settlement Day Rabin Ajau (Gua) 27 travel within 106-8 Parque Nacional Volcán (Bel) 27, 261 San Jerónimo (Nic) 468 Guayabo (Cos), see Arenal (Cos) 580 gay & lesbian travelers 732 San Lázaro (Nic) 468 Monu­mento Nacional Parque Nacional Volcán Semana Santa (El S) 320 Belize 277 Arqueológico Guayabo Barú (Pan) 677 Semana Santa (Gua) 26, Costa Rica 541, 630 Guerra de Fútbol 429 Parque Nacional Volcán 115, 188 El Salvador 350 Poás (Cos) 550 Succotz festival (Bel) Guatemala 218 H Perquín (El S) 335 260 Honduras 434 health 732 Puerto Viejo de . Sun Jam (Hon) 27 Nicaragua 522 Heredia (Cos) 550-1 Sarapiquí (Cos) 584 Toledo Cacao Festival Panama 719 Herradura (Cos) 615 Quetzaltenango (Gua) 147 (Bel) 26 Golfito (Cos) 622 Highlands (Gua) 121-62 Reserva de la Biosfera Wajshakib Batz’ (Gua) del Río Plátano (Hon) Golfo de Chiriquí (Pan) 671 travel to/from & within 157 424 Golfo De Fonseca Islands 121 Finca El Paraíso (Gua) 184 Reserva Natural (El S) 332-3 hiking 22, 729 Absoluta Cabo Blanco Finca Ixobel (Gua) 193 Gonzáles, Gaspar Pedro Bahía Drake (Cos) (Cos) 604 Flores & Santa Elena (Gua) 214 617-36 Río Cangrejal (Hon) 404 194-9, 195 Gracias (Hon) 390-2 Boquete (Pan) 673, 32 San Ignacio (El S) 341 FMLN 338, 340, 342-4 Gran Cenote (Mex) 67 Chalatenango (El S) 339 San Juan del Sur (Nic) Fray Bartolomé de Las Granada (Nic) 12, 456-65, El Mirador (Gua) 209 477 Casas (Gua) 177 458-9, 12 Great Corn Island (Nic) (El S) 328-54 Great Corn Island (Nic) 504 Roatán (Hon) 412 San Pedro La Laguna 504-6 Isla Colón (Pan) 681 Utila (Hon) 419 (Gua) 133 Guanacaste (Cos) 585-91 Isla de Ometepe (Nic) 471 French Harbour (Hon) 416 (El S) 323 Guatajiagua (El S) 334 Jacó (Cos) 606 FSLN 515-17 Santa Elena (Cos) 576 Guatemala 91-226, 94-5 La Palma (El S) 340 Fuentes Georginas (Gua) 155 Santa Fé (Pan) 668 accommodations 216 Lago de Atitlán (Gua) 123 Funes, Mauricio 342 Santiago Atitlán (Gua) arts 214 Lago de Yojoa (Hon) 132 budget 92 373, 374 Suchitoto (El S) 336 children, travel with 217 Marcala (Hon) 372 Tikal (Gua) 205 climate 91 Monteverde (Cos) 576 Todos Santos Cuchu- culture 212-13 Map Pages 000 Monumento Nacional matán (Gua) 162 disabilities, travelers Cañon de Somoto Photo Pages 000 volcanoes 113, 133, with 223 (Nic) 496-7 147, 155 759 history, see individual Montezuma (Cos) 601 Isla Colón (Pan) 680-9 La Costa del Bálsamo . locations Monumento Nacional Isla Conchagüita (El S) 333 (El S) 305-8 history museums Cañon de Somoto Isla Cozumel (Mex) 61-4, 62 La Cruz (Cos) 590-1 (Nic) 496 Casa de Montejo (Mex) Isla de Cañas (Pan) 664 La Democracia (Gua) 167 54 Pueblo Viejo (Bel) 273 Isla de Coiba (Pan) 667 La Ensenada (Hon) 398 Casa MIMA (Gua) 93 Río Cangrejal (Hon) . Isla de Ometepe (Nic) 17, La Esperanza (Hon) 371-2

404 IN Casa Museo Coman- 471-3, 472-3, 17 La Feria de San Isidro

dante Carlos Fonseca Roatán (Hon) 413 D Isla El Tigre (Hon) 426 (Hon) 26 (Nic) 498 San Juan (Hon) 393 E Isla Grande (Pan) 697-8 La Fortuna (Cos) 580-3 X Casa Museo Judith Kain

Santa Elena (Cos) 576  H-L (Mex) 48 La Garnacha (Nic) 496 (Nic) 507 Santa Fé (Pan) 668 Isla Martín Pérez (El S) 332 La Libertad (El S) 303-5 El Campamento Guerril- Suchitoto (El S) 337 lero Simulado . Isla Meanguera (El S) La Moskitia (Hon) 423-6 (El S) 334 hot springs 34, 333 La Negrita 552 Galería de Héroes y Aguas Termales (Hon) 384 Isla Méndez (El S) 326-7 La Palma (El S) 340-2 Mártires (Nic) 483, Aguas Termales La Isla Montecristo (El S) 325 La Palma (Pan) 707 Calera (Nic) 465 491 Isla Mujeres (Mex) 49-50 La Unión (El S) . Aguas Termales . Museo de la Revolución Isla Murciélago (Cos) 591 330-2, 331 Salvadoreña (El S) 334 Presidente (Hon) 392 Isla San Cristóbal (Pan) La Virgen (Cos) 583-4 Canton El Progreso . Museo del Canal Inte- 690 Lago de Atitlán (Gua) 15, roceánico (Pan) 643 (El S) 334 Isla San Sebastian (El S) 121-38, 122, 15 Fuentes Georginas Museo para la Identidad 326-7 Lago de Coatepeque . Nacional (Hon) 357 (Gua) 155 Isla Santa Catalina (Cos) (El S) 308-9 Herradura (Cos) 615 hitchhiking 742 591 Lago de Izabal (Gua) 181-5 La Fortuna (Cos) 580-1 Belize 282 Isla Taboga (Pan) 660-1 Lago de Nicaragua (Nic) 17 Los Pozos de Caldera Costa Rica 636 Isla Zacatillo (El S) 332 Lago de Yojoa (Hon) 373-4 (Pan) 673 Nicaragua 527 Islas Solentiname (Nic) 510 Lagos de Montebello Orosi (Cos) 553 Honduras 355-437, 358-9 itineraries 28-35, see also (Mex) 72 Parque Nacional Rincón accommodations 433 individual locations Laguna (Bel) 272 de la Vieja (Cos) 589 arts 431-2 (El S) 320, 322 Laguna (Mex) 65 Pozos Termales (Pan) 662 climate 355, 433 (Mex) 66 Laguna Chicabal (Gua) 158 San Lorenzo El Tejar culture 430-1 (Gua) 121 Laguna de (Nic) 447-8 disabilities, travelers Termas del Río (Hon) with 436 J Laguna de Ibans (Hon) 424 392 Jacó (Cos) 605-7 embassies & consulates Laguna de Xiloá (Nic) 447-8 Huehuetenango (Gua) 158 Jaibalito (Gua) 136 434 Laguna El Jocotal (El S) 347 Jinotega (Nic) 497-8 food & drink 356, 434 Lagunita Creek (Gua) 183 Jinotepe (Nic) 467 gay & lesbian . I Lamanai (Bel) 246 Ilobasco (El S) 323 Joya de Cerén (El S) 303 travelers 434 language 21, 743-50 indigenous peoples Juayúa (El S) 317-18, 16 highlights 358-9 language courses 219-20, history 428-30 Bribrí (Pan) 678 Jutiapa (Hon) 369 732, see also individual itineraries 356 Emberá (Pan) 659, 703 locations landscape & wildlife Honduras 430-1 K Antigua (Gua) 114 432-3 Kakawira (El S) 334 Kakabila (Nic) 503 Bocas del Toro Town money 435 Kuna (Pan) 698 kayaking, see canoeing & (Pan) 683 planning 37 Lenca (Hon) 371, 372, 388 kayaking Boquete (Pan) 675 religion 431 Nahual (El S) 322 Keith, Minor 625 Copán Ruinas (Hon) 380 safe travel 435 Ngöbe (Pan) 678, 690 kitesurfing Estelí (Nic) 491 travel to/from 356, Panama 714 Ambergris Caye (Bel) 240 Granada (Nic) 460 436-7 Pipil (El S) 343 Bahía Salinas (Cos) 590 Heredia (Cos) 550-1 travel within 437 Teribe (Pan) 678 Caye Caulker (Bel) 236 León (Nic) 483 women travelers 436 Wounaan (Pan) 645, Little Corn Island (Nic) Managua (Nic) 443 Hopkins (Bel) 264-6 659, 703 506 Monterrico (Gua) 169 horseback riding insurance 732, 739, 742 Mexico 65 Monteverde 14, 576 Antigua (Gua) 113 internet access 732 K’umarcaaj (Gua) 142 Nebaj (Gua) 144 Copán Ruinas (Hon) 380 Isla Barro Colorado (Pan) Panajachel (Gua) 123 El Castillo (Nic) 512 660 Panama City 645 Gracias (Hon) 390 Isla Bastimentos (Pan) 10, L La Campa (Hon) 34, 392 Playa del Carmen Jacó (Cos) 606 689-92 (Mex) 59 La Ceiba (Hon) 398-403, Mal País (Cos) 604 Isla Boca Brava (Pan) 671 Playa Sámara (Cos) 599 400 Monteverde (Cos) 576 Isla Carenero (Pan) 689 Playa Tamarindo (Cos) 595 760 language courses continued drinking & nightlife 447-9 attractions 54-5 motorcycle travel 739, 742 Quetzaltenango (Gua) entertainment 449-50 drinking & nightlife 58 Moya, Horacio Casellanos 149-50 food 446-7 entertainment 58 346 Reserva Natural Laguna shopping 450 food 57-8 Moyogalpa (Nic) 473-4 de Apoyo (Nic) 466 travel to/from 452-4 travel to/from 58-9 museums, see also anthro- San Cristóbal de las travel within 454 Mérida (Nic) 475-6 pology museums, .

IN Casa (Mex) 73 archaeological muse- Manuel Antonio (Cos) Metapán (El S) 312-13 ums, history museums

D San José (Cos) 533 610-11, 608 Metetí (Pan) 705-6 E San Juan del Sur (Nic) 477 Centro de Exhibiciones X X Manzanillo (Cos) 571 Mexico’s Yucatán & . Marinas (Pan) 644

L-N Santa Elena (Cos) 576  maps 733 Chiapas 40-90, 42 Suchitoto (El S) 337 Centro Intercultural

Marcala (Hon) 372-3 accommodations 86 de Quetzaltenango  Lanquín (Gua) 175-6 markets activities 86 (Gua) 147 Lars, Claudia 345 Belén Gualcho (Hon) 390 climate 40, 86 Cojolya Association of . Las Fiestas de Zapote Chichicastenango (Gua) culture 86 Maya Women Weavers (Cos) 27, 536 138, 29 customs 86 (Gua) 132 Las Isletas (Nic) 457 Mercado Artesanal embassies & . Museo de Arte Popular Las Marías (Hon) 424 (Cos) 542 consulates 87 (El S) 290 Las Peñitas (Nic) 489 Mercado Artesanías food & drink 41 Museo de Jade (Cos) Lempira 428 533 (Nic) 467 gay & lesbian travelers 87 León (Nic) 482-9, 484-5 Mercado Central (Cos) 542 Museo de la Biodiversi- history 85-6 dad (Pan) 645 accommodations 486-7 Mercado de Artesanía itineraries 41 attractions 482-3 (Pan) 662 Museo de Leyendas y money 87 Tradiciones (Nic) 482 Mercado de Artesanías courses 483-4 planning 36 (Gua) 119, 144 Museo del Ámbar de drinking 487 resources 41 Chiapas (Mex) 73 entertainment 487 Mercado de Buhonerías y Artesanías (Pan) 654 safety 86 Museo del Folklore food 487 (Nic) 467 Mercado del Carmen travel to/from 89-90 tours 484-6 (Gua) 119 travel within 90 Museum of Butterflies travel to/from & within & Other Insects (Hon) Mercado Municipal visas & documents 89 488-9 399 (Nic) 458 Miami (Hon) 398 León Viejo (Nic) 490 Mercado Municipal Miramundo (El S) 341 lesbian travelers, see gay & Lucas de Gálvez Mískito Keys (Nic) 506 N lesbian travelers (Mex) 54 Mistruk (Hon) 425 Nahuizalco (El S) 322 Liberia (Cos) 586-9, 586-7 Mercado Nacional de mobile phones 735 Naïve Art 341, 346 Little Corn Island (Nic) Artesanías (Pan) 654 Molina, Otto Fernando national parks, see also 506-7, 7 Mercado Oriental (Nic) Perez 209 reserves Lívingston (Gua) 187-91 450-1 Momostenango (Gua) Blue Hole National Park Llort, Fernando 288, 341, Mercado Roberto Huem- 157-8 (Bel) 240, 261, 23 346 bes (Nic) 450-1 money 19, 733 Guanacaste National Lobo, Porfirio 427 Nahuizalco (El S) 322 Monkey Point (Nic) 506 Park (Bel) 251 Lobsterfest (Bel) 26, 266 San Francisco El Alto Monterrico (Gua) 168-70 Parque Internacional La Lopez, Matilde Elena 346 (Gua) 155 Amistad (Pan) 678-9 Monteverde (Cos) 14, . Los Chiles (Cos) 583 San Ignacio (Bel) 254 572-9, 574-5 Parque Nacional Los Cóbanos (El S) 320 Martinelli, Ricardo 713 Archipiélago Zapatera accommodations 576-8 Los Planes de Renderos . Martínez, Aurelio 431 (Nic) 465 activities 573-6 (El S) 303 Martínez, Denis 517 Parque Nacional Braulio attractions 572-3 Los Vahos (Gua) 156 Martino, Miguel 337 Carrillo (Cos) 551-2 courses 576 Masachapa (Nic) 454-5 Parque Nacional Cahuita food 578 (Cos) 562 Masaya (Nic) 467-9, 468-9 M shopping 579 Parque Nacional Carara Matagalpa (Nic) 498-500 (Mex) 65 travel to/from 579 (Cos) 605 Mateare (Nic) 447-8 Mal País (Cos) 604-5 Montezuma (Cos) 601-3, Parque Nacional Cerro Maximón 127, 156 Managua (Nic) 442-54, 602 Azul Meambar (Hon) Maya, the 444-5, 448-9, 455-6 Monumento Nacional 374 accommodations 444-6 culture 96, 147, 157, 380 Arqueológico Guayabo Parque Nacional Chirripó attractions 442-3 festivals 157 (Cos) 556 (Cos) 616-17 courses 443 museums 43, 55, 73 Monumento Nacional Cañon Parque Nacional Coiba history 210, 274 de Somoto (Nic) 496-7 (Pan) 34, 667 Menchú, Rigoberta 145 Monumento Nacional Isla Parque Nacional . Barro Colorado (Pan) Corcovado (Cos) 620-1 Map Pages 000 Mérida (Mex) 54-9, 56-7 660 Parque Nacional Cusuco Photo Pages 000 accommodations 55-7 Morazán (El S) 333-5 (Hon) 378 761 Parque Nacional Darién Parque Nacional Volcán P Panama Jazz Festival 25 (Pan) 702 Masaya (Nic) 469-70 Palenque (Mex) 79-83 Panamá Viejo (Pan) 644 Parque Nacional El Parque Nacional Volcán Palenque Ruins (Mex) 13, Panchimalco (El S) 303 Imposible (El S) 16, Poás (Cos) 550 80-1, 81, 13 Paquera (Cos) 600-1 316, 321-2 Parque Nacional Walter T Palmar (Cos) 617 paragliding 123 Parque Nacional . Deininger (El S) . Jeannette Kawas 304 Palo de Mayo (Nic) 26, 502 Paraíso (Cos) 553 IN (Hon) 397 Port Royal National Park Panajachel (Gua) 122-30, parasailing 240 124-5 Parque Arqueológico . D Parque Nacional La Tigra (Hon) 416 E (Hon) 369 Río Blanco National Park accommodations 123-7 Takalik Abaj (Gua) 164 X Parque Nacional Laguna (Bel) 273 attractions & . Parque Internacional La  N-P Lachuá (Gua) 174 activities 123 Amistad (Pan) 678-9  . Temash-Sarstoon Parque Nacional Las National Park (Bel) courses 123 Parque Nacional Braulio Victorias (Gua) 171 273 drinking & entertain- Carrillo (Cos) 551-2 Parque Nacional Los Nebaj (Gua) 143-5 ment 129 Parque Nacional Cahuita Volcanes (El S) 308 Neily (Cos) 622-3 food 128 (Cos) 562 Parque Nacional Carara Parque Nacional Manuel Nicaragua 438-527, 440-1 shopping 129 Antonio (Cos) 13, (Cos) 605 accommodations 520 travel to/from 130 Parque Nacional Chirripó 610, 13 Panama 637-725, arts 518 640-1 (Cos) 616-17 Parque Nacional Marino accommodations 717 Ballena (Cos) 613 climate 438 Parque Nacional Coiba activities 717 Parque Nacional Marino culture 517-18 (Pan) 34, 667 Golfo de Chiriquí disabilities, travelers arts 715 Parque Nacional . (Pan) 671 with 524 climate 637, 718 Corcovado (Cos) 620-1 Parque Nacional Marino embassies & consulates culture 713-14 Parque Nacional Cusuco Isla Bastimentos 521 customs regulations 718 (Hon) 378 (Pan) 690 food & drink 439, 521 disabilities, travelers Parque Nacional Darién Parque Nacional Marino gay & lesbian . with 722 (Pan) 702 Las Baulas de . travelers 522 embassies & consulates Parque Nacional El Imposi- Guanacaste (Cos) 594 highlights 440 718 ble (El S) 16, 316, 321-2 Parque Nacional . history 513-17 food & drink 638, 718 Parque Nacional La Tigra Montaña de Celaque itineraries 439 gay & lesbian travel- (Hon) 369 (Hon) 392-3 landscape & wildlife ers 719 Parque Nacional Laguna Parque Nacional Mon- 519-20 health 719 del Tigre (Gua) 208 taña de Comayagua money 522-3 highlights 640-1 Parque Nacional Los (Hon) 370 Volcanes (El S) 308 planning 37 history 709-13 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Manuel safe travel 524 itineraries 638 Montecristo-El Trifinio Antonio (Cos) 13, travel to/from 439, landscapes & wildlife (El S) 313 610, 13 525-6 715-25 Parque Nacional Palo Parque Nacional Marino Verde (Cos) 586 travel within 526-7 money 720 Ballena (Cos) 613 Parque Nacional Pico women travelers 525 planning 38 Parque Nacional Marino Bonito (Hon) 404 Nicaraguan Baseball safe travel 721 Golfo de Chiriquí Parque Nacional Rincón Championship 25 sports 715 (Pan) 671 de la Vieja (Cos) 589 Noche de Agüizotes (Nic) travel to/from 638, Parque Nacional Marino Parque Nacional Río 27, 468 723-4 Isla Bastimentos (Pan) Dulce (Gua) 190 Nogapope (Pan) 27 travel within 724-6 690 Parque Nacional San Noriega, Colonel Manuel women travelers 723 Parque Nacional Montaña Lorenzo (Pa) 695 Antonio 712 Panama Canal 657-9, de Celaque (Hon) 392-3 Parque Nacional Santa Nueva Ocotepeque (Hon) 695, 658 Parque Nacional Montaña de Bárbara (Hon) 374 Comayagua (Hon) 370 393 Panama City 13, 639-57, Parque Nacional . 642-3, 646-7, 652, Parque Nacional . Soberanía (Pan) 659 Montecristo-El Trifinio 2, 13 Parque Nacional Tapantí- O (El S) 313 accommodations 647-50 Macizo Cerro de la Oak Ridge (Hon) 416 Parque Nacional Palo Verde Muerte (Cos) 553 Ocosingo (Mex) 72 attractions 639-45 (Cos) 586 Parque Nacional Tortu- Omoa (Hon) 394-5 courses 645 Parque Nacional Pico guero (Cos) 557, 31 opening hours 733, see drinking & nightlife 651-3 Bonito (Hon) 404 Parque Nacional Volcán also individual locations entertainment 653-4 Parque Nacional Rincón de Arenal (Cos) 580 Orange Walk (Bel) 246-8 food 650-1 la Vieja (Cos) 589 Parque Nacional Volcán Orinoco (Nic) 503 shopping 654 Parque Nacional San Barú (Pan) 677-8, 30-1 Orosi (Cos) 553 tours 645-6 Lorenzo (Pan) 695 Parque Nacional Volcán Ortega, Daniel 512 travel to/from 655-6 Parque Nacional Soberanía Irazú (Cos) 554 travel within 656-7 (Pan) 659 762 Parque Nacional Tortu- Playa Avellanas (Cos) 598 Q Biotopo Monterrico- guero (Cos) 557, 31 Playa del Carmen (Mex) Quepos (Cos) 607-10 Hawaii (Gua) 168 Parque Nacional Volcán 59-61, 60 Quetzaltenango (Gua) 145- Bosque Eterno de los Niños (Cos) 572 Arenal (Cos) 580 Playa del Coco (Cos) 591-4 55, 146, 148-9 Parque Nacional Volcán Playa El Coco (Nic) 481 accommodations 151 Cayos Cochinos (Hon) Barú (Pan) 677-8, 405 30-1 Playa El Cuco (El S) 332 activities 147-9

IN Parque Nacional Volcán Celestún (Mex) 55 Playa El Sunzal (El S) 307 attractions 145 Irazú (Cos) 554 D Cloudbridge Nature Playa El Tunco (El S) 16, courses 149-50 E Parque Nacional Volcán Reserve (Cos) 615 X X 305, 16 Masaya (Nic) 469-70 entertainment 153 Columbia Reserve P-R Playa El Zonte (El S) 307  Parque Nacional Volcán food 152 (Bel) 272 Playa Gigante (Nic) 477 Poás (Cos) 550 shopping 153 Isla de Cañas (Pan) 664  Playa Hermosa (Nic) 481 Parque Natural Metropoli- tours 150 La Montañona (El S) 340 Playa Jiquilillo (Nic) 490-1 tano (Pan) 645 travel to/from 154 Lancetilla Jardín Parramos Grande (Gua) Playa Las Lajas (Pan) 672 travel within 155 Botánico (Hon) 397 144 Playa Maderas (Nic) 480 Quiriguá (Gua) 180-1 Parque Hawaii (Gua) 168 Paso Canoas (Cos) 623 Playa Naranjo (Cos) 590, Parque Pastores (Gua) 121 600 (Mex) 63 Pavones (Cos) 622 Playa Negra (Cahuita, R Refugio de Vida Punta Rabin Ajau (Gua) 27 Pearl Islands (Pan), Cos) 562 Izopo (Hon) 397 Rabinal (Gua) 170 see Archipiélago de Las Playa Negra (Puerto Viejo Refugio de Vida Silvestre Perlas de Talamanca, Cos) 567 Raista (Hon) 424 Bocas del Polochic Pearl Keys (Nic) 35, 503 Playa Negra (Tamarindo, Rama Cay (Nic) 501 (Gua) 185 Pearl Lagoon (Nic) 503-4 Cos) 598-9 Rancho Frío (Pan) 707 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Pedasí (Pan) 663-5 Playa Popoyo (Nic) 477 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Cuero y Salado (Hon) 405-6 Peña Blanca (Hon) 373 Playa Sámara (Cos) Cuero y Salado (Hon) 599-600 405-6 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Península de Azuero (Pan) Isla Iguana (Pan) 664 663 Playa Santo Domingo Refugio de Vida Silvestre (Nic) 475 La Flor (Nic) 481 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Península de Nicoya (Cos) Playa Tamarindo (Cos) Reserva Biológica Río La Flor (Nic) 481 591-604, 592-3 594-8, 596 Indio-Maíz (Nic) 511 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Península de Osa 613-21, Playa Venao (Pan) 665 Reserva de Biosfera los Guatuzos (Nic) 614-15 Pochomil (Nic) 454-5 Bosawás (Nic) 498 509 Perdomo, Guillermo 298 Poneloya (Nic) 489 Reserva de la Biosfera del Refugio Nacional de Vida Perquín (El S) 34, 334-5 Silvestre Caño Negro Portobelo (Pan) 695-7 Río Plátano (Hon) 424-5 photography 734 (Cos) 35, 584 postal services 734 Reserva de la Biosfera Sian Placencia (Bel) 266-9, 267 Ka’an (Mex) 68 Refugio Nacional de Vida Pro-Búsqueda (El S) 344 planning Reserva Natural Absoluta Silvestre Gandoca- Pueblos Blancos (Nic) Manzanillo (Cos) 571 Belize 37 Cabo Blanco (Cos) 603-4 466-7 Reserva Biológica budgeting 19 Reserva Natural Isla Juan Pueblo Viejo (Bel) 273 Venado (Nic) 489 Bosque Nuboso calendar of events 25-7 Monteverde (Cos) 14, Puerto Barrios (Gua) 185-7 Reserva Natural Laguna de Costa Rica 38 572, Puerto Cabezas (Nic), Apoyo (Nic) 466 14 El Salvador 37 Reserva Biológica Río see Bilwi Reserva Natural Punta Indio-Maíz (Nic) 511 first time 20-1 Puerto Cortés (Hon) 394 Patiño (Pan) 707 Reserva de Biosfera Guatemala 36 Puerto El Triunfo (El S) 326 Reserva Natural Volcán Bosawás (Nic) 498 Honduras 37 Puerto Jiménez (Cos) Mombacho (Nic) . internet resources 19 619-20 465-6 Reserva de la Biosfera del Río Plátano (Hon) 424 itineraries 28-35 Puerto Lempira (Hon) Reserva Silvestre . Mexico 36 425-6 Greenfields (Nic) 502 Reserva de la Biosfera la Encrucijada (Mex) 72 money 19 Puerto Limón (Cos) 560-1 reserves, see also national Puerto Sandino (Nic) 490 parks Reserva de la Biosfera Nicaragua 37 Sian Ka’an (Mex) 68 Panama 38 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí Área Protegida Cerro (Cos) 584-5 Tisey-Estanzuela (Nic) Reserva Esperanza Verde responsible travel 19 (Nic) 509 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 495-6 travel seasons 18, 25-7 Reserva Natural Absoluta (Cos) 566-71, 568 Área Protegida Miraflor what to wear 20 Cabo Blanco (Cos) (Mex) 35, 68 (Nic) 495 Playa Aserradores (Nic) 603-4 Punta Burica (Pan) 672 Biotopo Cerro Cahuí 489-90 (Gua) 199 Reserva Natural Atitlán Punta de Manabique (Gua) 123 (Gua) 187 Biotopo Chocón . Machaca (Gua) 190 Reserva Natural Estero Punta Gorda (Bel) 269-72, Padre Ramos (Nic) Map Pages 000 Biotopo del Quetzal 270 490 Photo Pages 000 (Gua) 171 Puntarenas (Cos) 605 763 Reserva Natural Isla drinking 78 San Pedro La Laguna (Gua) Semana Santa (El S) 320 Juan Venado (Nic) 489 entertainment 78 133-5 Semana Santa (Gua) 26, Reserva Natural Laguna food 75-8 San Pedro Sula (Hon) 115, 188 de Apoyo (Nic) 466 tours 73 374-8 Semuc Champey (Gua) 176 Reserva Natural Pilas-El travel to/from 78-9 San Ramón (Nic) 475-6, 499 , see whale sharks Hoyo (Nic) 490 travel within 79 San Salvador (El S) 285- Sierpe (Cos) 617

Reserva Natural Punta 302, , , IN San Felipe de Lara (Gua) 289-90 292 Sima de las Cotorras Patiño (Pan) 707 , 184 294 296 (Mex) 72 D Reserva Natural Volcán accommodations 290-3 E San Francisco El Alto (Gua) Sipacate (Gua) 167 X Mombacho (Nic) 465-6 attractions 285-90 Sixaola (Cos) 571  R-S 155-6 Reserva Privada El San Gerardo de Rivas (Cos) drinking & nightlife 297 Smithsonian Tropical  Quebracho (Nic) 511 615-16 entertainment 298 Research Institute Reserva Silvestre . food 295-7 (Pan) 660 Greenfields (Nic) 502 San Ignacio (Bel) 254-8, 255 San Ignacio (El S) 341 shopping 298 snorkeling 22, 729, see Reserva Silvestre Privada also diving Domitila (Nic) 465 San Isidro de El General travel to/from 300 (Cos) 613-15 travel within 300-2 Archipiélago de Las Roatán Marine Park Perlas (Pan) 661 (Hon) 411 San Jacinto (Nic) 490 San Sebastián (El S) 323 Caye Caulker (Bel) 236 Sendero Ecológico El San Jorge (Nic) 471 San Simón, see Maximón Cayos Cochinos (Hon) Aprisco (Gua) 156 San Jose (Bel) 273 San Vicente (El S) 323-4 405 Shipstern Nature San José (Cos) 532-46, Sánchez, Oscar Arias 626 Reserve (Bel) 251 Great Corn Island (Nic) 534-5 Sandy Bay (Hon) 416 504 Tawahka Asangni accommodations 536-9 Santa Ana (El S) 309-12, Hopkins (Bel) 264 Biosphere Reserve attractions 532-3 310 (Hon) 433 Isla Bastimentos (Pan) courses 533 Santa Catalina (Pan) 666-8 Retalhuleu (Gua) 163-4 691 drinking & nightlife Santa Catarina Palopó Isla Colón (Pan) 680 Río Cangrejal (Hon) 403-4 540-1 (Gua) 131 Isla Cozumel (Mex) 63 Río Coco (Nic) 506 entertainment 541 Santa Cruz del Quiché Isla del Caño (Cos) 617 Río Dulce (Gua) 181-4, 190 food 539-40 (Gua) 142-3 Isla Grande (Pan) 697 Río Lagartos (Mex) 66 gay & lesbian . Santa Cruz La Laguna Isla Mujeres (Mex) 49 Río Orosi Valley (Cos) travelers 541 (Gua) 137-8 Isla Taboga (Pan) 660 553-4 safety 542 Santa Elena (Bel) 273 Montezuma (Cos) 601 Río San Juan (Nic) 510-12 shopping 542 Santa Elena (Cos) 572-9, Panama 717 Rivas (Nic) 470-1 tours 533-6 574-5 Parque Nacional Cahuita river-tubing 256 travel to/from 543-4 accommodations 577-8 (Cos) 562 Roatán (Hon) 12, 410-17, travel within 544-6 activities 576 Parque Nacional . 412, 4 attractions 572-3, 573-6 San Jose Succotz (Bel) 260 Jeannette Kawas Ruinas de Tazumal (El S) 314 San Juan (Hon) 393 courses 576 (Hon) 397 ruins, see archaeological San Juan Chamula (Mex) 79 food 578 Playa del Carmen sites San Juan de Oriente (Nic) shopping 579 (Mex) 59 Ruta de las Flores (El S) 16, 467 travel to/from 579 Playa Ocotal (Cos) 591 316-20, 16 San Juan del Norte (Nic) 511 Santa Elena (Gua), see Puerto Viejo de . Ruta de los Conventos San Juan del Sur (Nic) Flores & Santa Elena Talamanca (Cos) 567 (Mex) 66 476-80, 478, 32-3 Santa Fé (Pan) 668 Refugio Nacional de Vida San Juan La Laguna (Gua) Santa Lucía (Hon) 369 Silvestre Gandoca- S 136 Santa Lucía Cotzumalg- Manzanillo (Cos) 571 safety 734, see also San Lorenzo Zinacantán uapa (Gua) 165-7 Roatán (Hon) 12, 411 individual locations (Mex) 79 Santa Rosa (Cos) 589-90 Sarteneja (Bel) 251 sailing 182, 241 San Manuel Colohete Santa Rosa de Aguán Tobacco Caye (Bel) 265 Salamá (Gua) 170 (Hon) 392 (Hon) 408 Tulum (Mex) 65 Sambo Creek (Hon) 405 San Marcos (Nic) 467 Santa Rosa de Copán Utila (Hon) 12, 420 Sambú (Pan) 35, 709 San Marcos La Laguna (Hon) 388-90 Uvita (Cos) 613 San Andrés Xecul (Gua) 156 (Gua) 15, 135-7 Santa Tecla (El S) 299 Sololá (Gua) 131 San Antonio (Bel) 272-3 San Miguel (Bel) 272 Santa Teresa (Cos) 604-5 Somoto (Nic) 496-7 San Antonio Palopó (Gua) 131 San Miguel (El S) 327-30, Santamaría, Juan 546 Sonis (Nic) 497 328 San Carlos (Nic) 508-10 Santiago Atitlán (Gua) 15, Sonsonate (El S) 320-1 San Miguel Totonicapán 130-3 San Cristóbal de las Casas Suchitoto (El S) 336-9 (Gua) 156-7 Sarteneja (Bel) 35, 251 (Mex) 72-9, 76-7 Sun Jam (Hon) 27 San Pedro (Bel) 240-5, 242 Sayaxché (Gua) 191 accommodations 75 surfing 24, 730 San Pedro Columbia sea travel 740, 741, see also attractions 72-3 Dominical (Cos) 611 (Bel) 272 individual locations courses 73 El Salvador 349 764 surfing continued T U Volcán Maderas (Nic) Isla Carenero (Pan) 689 Tacuba (El S) 16, 316 Uaxactún (Gua) 207-8 471 Isla Colón (Pan) 681 Tamarindo (Cos), see Playa Unesco World Heritage Volcán Masaya (Nic) . Jacó (Cos) 606 Tamarindo Sites 469 Volcán Mombacho (Nic) Las Flores (El S) 332 Tawahka Asangni Biosphere Antigua (Gua) 108-21, 465 Mal País (Cos) 604 Reserve (Hon) 433 110-11, 2

IN Volcán Tegucigalpa (Hon) 357-68, Campeche (Mex) 68-72, Masachapa (Nic) 454-5 (Nic) 490 D Nicaragua 523 360-1, 364 70-1 E Volcán Poás (Cos) 550

X X accommodations 362-3 Casco Viejo (Pan) Ollie’s Point (Cos) 590 Volcán Rincón de la Vieja S-W attractions 357-62 639-44  Panama 717 (Cos) 589 Pavones (Cos) 622 drinking & nightlife 365 Chichén Itzá (Mex) 15, . Volcán Santa Ana  51-4, 15, 52-3 Playa Avellanas (Cos) entertainment 365-6 (El S) 308 598-9 food 363-5 Copán Archaeological Site (Hon) 16, 384-8, Volcán Santa María Playa El Sunzal (El safety 366 (Gua) 147 385, 16 S) 307 shopping 366 Volcán Santiaguito Joya de Cerén (El S) 303 Playa El Tunco (El S) 16, travel to/from 367-8 (Gua) 147 Panamá Viejo (Pan) 644 305, 16 travel within 368 Volcán Santo Tomás Parque Nacional Coiba Playa Grande (Cos) 594 Tela (Hon) 395-6 (Gua) 155 (Pan) 34, 667 Playa Hermosa (Cos) telephone services 735 Volcán Tajumulco (Gua) 606 Parque Nacional Darién 147 Ticul (Mex) 66 (Pan) 702 Playa Hermosa (Nic) 481 Volcán Zunil (Gua) 155 (Mex) 66 Quiriguá (Gua) 180 Playa Maderas (Nic) Volcano Chaparrastique Tikal (Gua) 10, 200-7, 11, 480-1 Tikal (Gua) 10, 200-7, 11, (El S) 328-9 202-3 Playa Naranjo (Cos) 590 202-3 volunteering 736-7 travel to/from 82 Playa Negra (Cos) . Urban Maeztro 431 Costa Rica 633 Tilapita (Gua) 166 598-9 Uspantán (Gua) 145 El Salvador 290, 337, 352 Tilarán (Cos) 579-80 Playa Sámara (Cos) 599 Usulután (El S) 325-6 Guatemala 113, 149, 223 tipping 21 Playa Tamarindo (Cos) Utila (Hon) 12, 417-23, 418 Honduras 436 Tobacco Caye (Bel) 265 594-8 Uvita (Cos) 613 Mexico 89 toilets 735 Pochomil (Nic) 454-5 Nicaragua 473, 525 Punta Roca (El S) 304 Tola (Nic) 477 V Salsa Brava (Cos) 567 Toledo (Bel) 272-4 Valladolid 50-1 San Juan del Sur (Nic) Toledo Cacao Festival W (Bel) 26 Velásquez, José Antonio 431 476-480, 478, 32-3 Walker, William 406, 514, 625 video 734 Santa Catalina (Pan) Tornabé (Hon) 398 walking, see hiking 666-8 Tortuguero (Cos) 557-60 visas & documents 19, waterfalls 736, see also individual tourist information 735, Agua Azul (Mex) 72 Sipacate (Gua) 167 countries see also individual Biotopo del Quetzal Witch’s Rock (Cos) . Visquerra, Julio 431 590 locations (Gua) 171 volcanoes 24 swimming 735 train travel 742 Cascada de los . (Gua) 113 Balneario La Nueva . transportation 18, 738-42 Ensueños (Hon) 370 Barranca (Pan) 670 Trujillo (Hon) 406-8, 407 Agua (Gua) 113 Cascada los Tercios . Guatemala 176 Tulate (Gua) 166 (Nic) 490 (El S) 337 Isla de Ometepe (Nic) Tulum (Mex) 64-7 Cerro Verde (El S) 308 Cascada San Ramón 472 Tulum Ruins (Mex) 65 Chichontepec (El S) 323 (Nic) 476 Laguna de Xiloá (Nic) Turrialba (Cos) 554-7 Fuego (Gua) 113 Cascada Zacate (Hon) 404 447-8 turtles (Gua) 113 Catarata La Cangreja Monkey Point (Nic) 506 Biotopo Monterrico- Quezaltepeque (Volcán (Cos) 589 Perquín (El S) 335 Hawaii (Gua) 168 San Salvador) 303 El Bejuco (Hon) 405 Playa Cocalito (Cos) 618 Isla de Cañas (Pan) 664 Volcán Arenal (Cos) 580 El Gavilán (Hon) 370 Playa Marsella (Nic) 480 Isla Mujeres (Mex) 49 Volcán Barú (Pan) 677, El Salto (El S) 334 Playa Platanares (Cos) Parque Hawaii (Gua) 168 30-1 Five Sisters Falls (Bel) 259 619 Playa Grande (Cos) 594 Volcán Barva (Cos) 551 Hidden Valley (Thousand Reserva Natural Laguna Playa Larga (Pan) 690 Volcán Concepción (Nic) 472 Foot) Falls (Bel) 259 de Apoyo (Nic) 466 Raista (Hon) 424 Volcán Cosigüina (Nic) Isla de Ometepe (Nic) Refugio de Vida Silvestre 490 17, 472 La Flor (Nic) 481 Volcán de Usulután (El La Cascada de los Santa Rosa (Cos) 590 S) 325 Duendes (Hon) 393 Map Pages 000 Tortuguero (Cos) 557 Volcán Irazú (Cos) 554 La Cascada del . Photo Pages 000 Western Azuero (Pan) 665 Volcán Izalco (El S) 308 Chorreron (El S) 334 765 La Catarata de la Boquete (Pan) . Parque Nacional Cahuita X Fortuna (Cos) 580 673 (Cos) 562 (Mex) 65 La Estanzuela (Hon) 372 Orosi (Cos) 554 Parque Nacional Carara Xeo (Gua) 144 Las Cataratas (Gua) 143 Panama 717 (Cos) 605 Los Chorros de Calera Puerto Viejo de Sara- Parque Nacional . (El S) 317 piquí (Cos) 584 Corcovado (Cos) 620 Y Yaviza (Pan) 706 Los Siete Altares (Gua) Río Cangrejal (Hon) . Parque Nacional Marino IN Ballena (Cos) 613 Yaxchilán (Mex) 84 187 403 D

Misol-Ha (Mex) 72 Río Sarapiquí (Cos) 583 Parque Nacional Yucatán 43-71, 44-5, see E Montecristo-El Trifinio also Mexico’s Yucatán X

Montezuma (Cos) 601 Turrialba (Cos) 555  W-Z (El S) 313 Parque Internacional La wildlife-watching 22, 730, & Chiapas

 Amistad (Pan) 679 see also bird-watching Parque Nacional Pico Bonito (Hon) 404 Parque Nacional Braulio Aguacaliente Wildlife Z Carrillo (Cos) 551-2 Sanctuary (Bel) 272 Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja (Cos) 589 Zaculeu (Gua) 158 Pulhapanzak (Hon) 374 Biotopo Cerro Cahuí Zapatistas 85 (Gua) 199 Parque Nacional . Río Blanco Falls (Bel) 273 Soberanía (Pan) 659 Zelaya, José Santos 513 Río On Pools (Bel) 259 Biotopo Monterrico- Hawaii (Gua) 168 Parque Nacional . Zelaya, Manuel 427 Ruta de las Seite Casca- Tortuguero (Cos) zip-lining 729 das (El S) 317 Bosque Eterno de . 557, 31 Apaneca (El S) 318 Salto El Cubo (El S) 337 los Niños (Cos) . 572 Parque Nacional Walter T Boquete (Pan) 673 Salto El Espino (El S) 314 Deininger (El S) 304 Community Baboon Isla Bastimentos (Pan) Salto Estanzuela (Nic) Sanctuary (Bel) 245 Parque Natural Metro- 691 495 politano (Pan) 645 Crocodile Bridge (Cos) Isla de Ometepe (Nic) Santa Fé (Pan) 668 605 Refugio de Vida Silvestre 17, 475 Bocas del Polochic Viento Fresco (Cos) 581 Crooked Tree Wildlife La Campa (Hon) 392 (Gua) 185 weather 18, see also Sanctuary (Bel) 246 La Fortuna (Cos) 581 Refugio de Vida Silvestre individual countries El Valle Amphibian Cuero y Salado (Hon) Lago de Yojoa (Hon) 374 West Bay (Hon) 415-16 Conservation Center 405 Monteverde 573 Western Belize 250-61, (Pan) 662 Reserva Biológica Montezuma (Cos) 601 252-3 Finca La Isla (Cos) . Bosque Nuboso . Río Cangrejal (Hon) 404 whale sharks 420 567 Monteverde (Cos) . Sambo Creek (Hon) . Isla Holbox (Mex) 48 Guatemala 214-16 572 405 Isla Mujeres (Mex) 49 Iguana Research & Reserva de la Biosfera del San Juan del Sur (Nic) . Breeding Station Placencia (Bel) 266 Río Plátano (Hon) 424 477 (Hon) 418 Playa del Carmen Reserva Natural Punta Santa Elena (Cos) 573 (Mex) 59 Isla Barro Colorado Patiño (Pan) 707 (Pan) 660 Tikal (Gua) 206 Utila (Hon) 12, 419 Reserva Silvestre Privada Centro de zoos Whale & Oceanic Domitila (Nic) 465 Rescate (Cos) 566 Belize 250 Research Center Utila (Hon) 12, 420 Laguna de Guaimoreto Costa Rica 572, 573 (Hon) 420 Wiwili (Nic) 498 (Hon) 408 Guatemala 97, 147 white-water rafting 730 women travelers 737, see Monkey Bay Wildlife Apuzunga Water Park . also individual locations Zunil (Gua) 156 Sanctuary (Bel) . (El S) 312 251 work 737 751

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travelers who used the Carolyn McCarthy last edition and wrote to us with helpful I am indebted to the many locals, experts and hints, useful advice and interesting travelers who shared their version of this para- anecdotes: dise. Ignacio and Judit were Caribbean dream A Amir Sagiv, Andrew Stiffman, Andreas captains. Kind thanks to Ruth Metzel, Rainald, Stephan, Andrew Robarts, Anna Kron- Carla Rankin, Jim Omer, Andrew, Andrea, Obe- borg Haar, Ask Gudmundsen B Brenda din and Koby, Alexandra Dennis, Daniel Sme- Dragonne, Brodie Kurczynski C Carolein tana, Bobby and Katrina, Cherie and Reggie, Kuijpers, Caroline Cotton, Celine Vincent, taxi Karloz, KC, Douglas and Igua. Annie, Jen- Chelsey Anglin, Craig Murphy D Darren nie, Iker, David and Rachel offered respite and Francis, David Taylor F Farsan Ghassim, support. Thanks guys. Hasta la proxima! Frans Smit G Gabriel Trainer, Gijs de Reeper, Guy Raven H Haley White, Harald Greg Benchwick Wilmersdorf, Helen Bonser I Inge Yarza- Thanks to Cat and the crew at Lonely Planet, garay, Isabel von Au J Jackie Deverall, to my coordinating author, to Pipo in Managua, Jacqueline Ramos, Jane Wilks, Jason White, and my fearless and peerless travel companion Johan Lahti, Johanna Norin, John Munday, Violeta Benchwick. Juliette Giannesini L Laura Hughes, Liam Hanlon M Marek Tretera, Marleen Kaag, Joshua Samuel Brown Mary O’Sullivan, Meagan Simpson N Nadya At the tail end of the fourth month of my fourth Waziri, Navin Kaicker, Nolan Shulak O Olga journey through Belize, I’d like to thank first Gomez P Paolo Votino, Paul Griffin, Paulo and foremost the entire nation and everyone Martins R Ricky Feigin S Sam Hatha- who calls it home, from the northern edge of way, Sara Koch, Sarah Bolt, Sarah Hundt, Corozal to the remotest jungles of the furthest Simon Sagewka, Steve Bogaerts, Steve Gen- ruins of Toledo. As for individuals who have ner, Susan Cherry T Teck Ree Law, Tom made this trip particularly worthwhile, in no De bock, Troels Kolln W Wolfgang Seel particular order: my mad henchman of month Z Zsofia Ujpal one Dave Narby; Christopher and Celini in Toledo; Demian and Nicole in Belize City; David and Nikki in Dangriga; Jacki, Nick, John and 752 Pam in Placencia; Matthew; Yosiah and Linda Lucas Vidgen in Cayo and Gwyn in Corozal. Thanks firstly to the Guatemalans, for making Special thanks to Misty for the last one my adopted country such an amazing place and Bill K and Aimee for being a small part of to live, work and travel. To all the travelers yet another long, strange trip. and tourism people along the way, especially John Hecht Brenda Orantes in Guate, Thomas Ansems in B Lanquín and Geert Van Vaeck in Copán. In LP

E Many thanks to all the good folks in the

H land, thanks to Jonathan Ricketson for what- Yucatán who helped make this wonderful IN ever patience he has left with me and to all journey possible. Special gratitude goes to D D the greasemonkeys in the author pool – it’s commissioning editor Cat Craddock-Carrillo, T been quite a ride and the support was much H coordinating author Carolyn McCarthy, appreciated. E Mexico coauthor Sandra Bao, the book’s

SCENES and previous writers, Raul LiCausi, Mara Vorhees Pepe Treviño and my loyal buddy, el campeon. Muchas gracias to the many charming Ticos Last but not least, all my love to my wife, who lent a hand along the way, especially Laura, and a big hug for Carlos, the bravest Jose and the extended Caldo family at Natu- person I’ve ever known. ral Paradise in Turrialba, and the Wierniks at Villa Yerbabuena in Monteverde. The hardest Tom Spurling part about travel writing is balancing work life Thanks to Cat Craddock-Carrillo for getting with family life. As such, my most heartfelt me to go around again. High fives to Luis and thanks go to my own family, for tolerating, Jorge for hanging out like true professionals. encouraging and even participating in this To Rene, thanks for your kind advice, friendly adventure. company and that beach house. To Muzza and Matpat, great effort to get on board. Finally to Lucy, Oliver and Poppy, for support- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ing my absenteeism over the past 10 books, I love you all like loco. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Iain Stewart World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate I had incredible help in Honduras. In San Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Pedro, Juan Carlos and Tesla were outstand- Sciences, 11, 1633­44. ing company, and the book would be so Illustrations p52-3, p202-3 by Michael much the poorer with out the efforts and Weldon. friendship of Bobby by the lake; Julián in La Cover photographs: Costa Rica Moskitia; David Sedat and Howard in Copán; Waterfall near San Miguel, Giovanni Maria, Sandy Pereira and pals in Tegus; Adi in Simeone/4Corners; Keel-billed toucan, Belize, Roatán; UDC in Utila and the Instituto Hondu- Frans Lanting/Corbis; Granada, Nicaragua, reño de Turismo. Regula Heeb-Zweifel/Corbis; two Emberá girls, Panama, Bruno Morandi/Corbis. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 753 THIS BOOK Belize contributed to the Managing Editors Sasha Belize chapter and Sandra Baskett, Bruce Evans This 8th edition of Lonely Bao’s work on the 6th edition Managing Layout Planet’s Central America of Cancún, Cozumel & the Designer Jane Hart on a Shoestring guidebook Yucatán contributed to the Assisting Editors Laura was coordinated by Carolyn Mexico’s Yucatán & Chiapas Gibb, Carly Hall, Paul Harding, n B Lauren Hunt, Gabrielle Innes, E McCarthy (who also wrote chapter. The previous edi- H

Kate James, Bella Li, Rosie I the Panama chapter and tion was researched and

Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, D the front and back sections written by Carolyn McCarthy

Charles Rawlings-Way, T of the book), Greg Bench- (coordinating author), Greg Fionnuala Twomey, Simon H E wick (Nicaragua), Joshua Benchwick, Joshua Samuel Williamson S

Samuel Brown (Belize), John Brown, Alex Egerton, Mat- Assisting Cartographers CENES Hecht (Mexico’s Yucatán & thew D Firestone, Kevin Jeff Cameron, Corey Chiapas), Tom Spurling (El Raub, Tom Spurling and Lu- Hutchison, Valentina Salvador), Iain Stewart (Hon- cas Vidgen. This guidebook Kremenchutskaya duras), Lucas Vidgen (Gua- was commissioned in Lonely Assisting Layout temala) and Mara Vorhees Planet’s Oakland office, and Designer Carol Jackson (Costa Rica). Alex Egerton’s produced by the following: Cover Research Brendan Dempsey work on the 3rd edition of Commissioning Editor Nicaragua contributed to this Catherine Craddock-Carrillo Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic book’s Nicaragua chapter, Coordinating Editor Anita Banh, David Daniel C Schechter’s work on Lorna Parkes Thanks to Carroll, Ryan Evans, Larissa the 5th edition of Guatemala Senior Cartographers Frost, Chris Girdler, Genesys Mark Griffiths, Alison Lyall contributed to the Guate- India, Jouve India, Trent Paton, mala chapter, Mara Vorhees’s Coordinating Layout Kerrianne Southway, Gerard work on the 5th edition of Designer Wendy Wright Walker

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