01_287897-ffirs.qxp 10/1/08 11:52 PM Page i pauline frommer’s CANCÚN & THE YUCATÁN spend less see more 1st Edition by Christine Delsol Series Editor: Pauline Frommer 02_287897-ftoc.qxp 10/1/08 11:51 PM Page vi 01_287897-ffirs.qxp 10/1/08 11:52 PM Page i pauline frommer’s CANCÚN & THE YUCATÁN spend less see more 1st Edition by Christine Delsol Series Editor: Pauline Frommer 01_287897-ffirs.qxp 10/1/08 11:52 PM Page ii Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. 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All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-28789-7 Editor: Melinda Quintero Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Andy Dolan Photo Editor: Richard Fox Interior Design: Lissa Auciello-Brogan Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front and back cover photo © Bertrand Gardel/Hemis/Alamy Images Cover photo of Pauline Frommer by Janette Beckmann For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_287897-ftoc.qxp 10/1/08 11:51 PM Page iii ND LES SPE S ™ SEE MORE Contents 1 The Best of Cancún & the Yucatán The States of the Yucatán Peninsula . 2 The Best Beaches . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 3. 2 The Best Archaeological Sites . 4 The Best Diving & Snorkeling . 4 The Best Museums. 4 The Best Yucatecan Cuisine . 5 The Best “Other” Experiences . 5 The Best Weeklong Itineraries. 6 2 Cancún. 10 Don’t Leave Cancún Without... 10 A Brief History . 11 Lay of the Land . 13 Getting to & Around Cancún . 14 Accommodations, Both Standard & Not . 16 Dining for All Tastes . 34 Why You’re Here: Cancún’s Beaches . 41 The Top Sights & Attractions. 46 The Other Cancún . 50 Active Cancún. 53 Attention, Shoppers! . 61 Nightlife . 63 3 Las Islas . 69 Don’t Leave Las Islas Without... 69 Isla Mujeres . 70 iii 02_287897-ftoc.qxp 10/1/08 11:51 PM Page iv iv Contents Isla Holbox . 96 Cozumel . 104 4 The Riviera Maya. 129 Don’t Leave the Riviera Maya Without... 129 A Brief History . 131 Lay of the Land. 132 Planning Your Trip to the Riviera Maya . 134 Playa del Carmen. 136 Puerto Morelos . 149 Akumal . 158 Tulum . 166 Southern Forays . 179 5 Mérida . 182 Don’t Leave Mérida Without... 182 A Brief History . 183 Lay of the Land. 184 Getting to & Around Mérida . 185 Accommodations, Both Standard & Not. 188 Dining for All Tastes . 193 Why You’re Here: The Top Sights & Attractions . 194 The Other Mérida. 199 Active Mérida . 201 Attention, Shoppers! . 201 Nightlife . 202 6 Yucatán State. 206 Don’t Leave Yucatán State Without... 206 Lay of the Land. 207 A Brief History . 209 Uxmal & the Hill Country . 211 Progreso & the Gulf Coast. 220 Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior . 227 02_287897-ftoc.qxp 10/1/08 11:51 PM Page v Contents v Izamal . 231 Valladolid . 235 7 Campeche . 243 Don’t Leave Campeche Without.... 244 A Brief History . 244 Lay of the Land. 245 Getting to & Around Campeche . 246 Accommodations, Both Standard & Not. 247 Dining for All Tastes . 250 Why You’re Here: The Top Sights & Attractions . 252 The Other Campeche . 259 Attention, Shoppers! . 260 Nightlife . 260 Side Trips from Campeche . 261 8 The Essentials of Planning. 264 When to Visit . 264 Entry Requirements . 268 Getting to & Around Cancún & the Yucatán . 271 Travel Insurance . 277 Money Matters . 278 Health & Safety. 279 Packing . 282 Specialized Travel Resources . 283 Staying Wired While Away. 286 Recommended Reading. 287 9 Useful Terms & Phrases . 292 English-Spanish Phrases . 292 Mayan Terms & Phrases . 299 Index . 301 02_287897-ftoc.qxp 10/1/08 11:51 PM Page vi ND LES SPE S ™ SEE MORE List of Maps Cancún Zona Hotelera . 17 Cancún El Centro. 19 Tulum Ruins . 173 Cancún Zona Hotelera Beaches Cobá . 175 & Attractions . 43 Where to Stay & Dine Isla Mujeres . 71 in Mérida . 189 Isla Holbox . 97 What to See & Do in Mérida . 195 Isla Cozumel. 105 Yucatán State . 208 San Miguel de Cozumel . 107 Uxmal . 216 The Riviera Maya . 133 Chichén Itzá. 229 Playa del Carmen. 137 Valladolid. 235 Puerto Morelos . 151 Campeche State . 246 Tulum . 167 Campeche . 248 vi 03_287897-flast.qxp 10/1/08 11:52 PM Page vii About the Author Christine Delsol recovered from her first memory of Mexico—a bullfight during a childhood trip with her Mexican Californio grandmother—and has been traveling to the country at every opportunity for 30 years. She has spent most of her career in newspapers, winning an Associated Press award for feature writing and, as travel edi- tor of the San Francisco Chronicle, two Lowell Thomas awards from the Society of American Travel Writers. She left the Chronicle a year ago to write full time but still con- tributes an online column about Mexico. Christine lives with her husband, another newspaper creature, in the San Francisco Bay Area and has an absurdly well-traveled 21-year-old daughter. Acknowledgments Thanks are due to Jeanne Cooper, for her contribution to chapter 8, “The Essentials of Planning.” An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were dis- appointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Pauline Frommer’s Cancún & the Yucatán, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 03_287897-flast.qxp 10/1/08 11:52 PM Page viii Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every restaurant, hotel, and attraction is rated with stars 5, indicating our opinion of that facility’s desirability; this relates not to price, but to the value you receive for the price you pay. The stars mean: No stars: Good 5 Very good 55 Great 555 Outstanding! A must! Accommodations within each neighborhood are listed in ascending order of cost,.