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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 309 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Lucas Vidgen Many thanks to the travelers who used Thanks first and foremost to the Mexicans for the last edition and wrote to us with help- making such an enjoyable country to travel and ful hints, useful advice and interesting work in. Specifically, Andres and Sylvia were a anecdotes: huge help in San Cristóbal, and the Campeche section wouldn’t have been the same without Constantine Bogios, Jed Breed, Mara De Alonso Escobar and his compadre César. Monte, Sylvie Gelinas, David Hixson, Max And as always, thanks to América, Sofía and Holmberg, Patricia Kubala, Harriet Lawrence, Teresa for being there, and being there when I Adrien Maggiora, Stephane Schockaert, got back. Charice Silverman, Tomasz Smaczny, Felix Wagner, Estefania Walsh ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, AUTHOR THANKS Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated John Hecht World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Thanks to the countless number of good Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System people in the Yucatán who helped make this Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. wonderful journey so special. Special gratitude goes out to commissioning editor Cliff Wilkin- Chichén Itzá illustration pp186–7 by Michael son, co-author Lucas Vidgen, the book’s pre- Weldon vious authors, Yurij Gabassi and my wife, Lau, Cover photograph: Cenote at Dzitnup who looked after two hyperactive kitties. (X’Kekén), JoseIgnacioSoto/Getty Images ©. 310 BEHIND THE SCENES ricio Velázquez de León. This Assisting Editors Sarah THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Bruce This 7th edition of Lonely the following: Evans, Paul Harding, Lauren Planet’s Cancún, Cozumel & Destination Editor Clifton O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Vicky the Yucatán guidebook was re- Wilkinson Smith, Fionnuala Twomey searched and written by John Product Editors Kate Chap- Assisting Cartographer Hecht and Lucas Vidgen. The man, Saralinda Turner Valentina Kremenchutskaya previous edition was written Senior Cartographer Mark Cover Researcher Naomi by John Hecht and Sandra Griffiths Parker Bao. The ‘Yucatecan Cuisine’ Book Designer Michael Buick Thanks to Andi Jones, Karyn chapter was written by Mau- Noble, Lyahna Spencer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311 Index A Corredor Arqueológico tours 41 Cobá 122 accommodations 18, 284-6 139-40 Tulum ruins 11, 114, 115, Palenque ruins 243 language 302-3 Cuadrángulo de las 114, 11, 27 Uxmal 162 Monjas 162 travel with children 43 Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23, baluartes 204 Dzibanché 139-40 activities 24-5, 286, see also 37, 39 banks 290 canoeing & kayaking, Dzibilchaltún 177-8 Xcambó 180 bargaining 19 diving & snorkeling, Dzibilnocac 215-16 Xlapak 165 baseball 172, 262 horseback riding, Edzná 216-17, 216, 29 Xpuhil 225 bathhouses 196, 274 kiteboarding, surfing, Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5 Yamil Lu’um 56 zip-lining beaches 20 El Caracol 188 Yaxchilán 246, 247-8 agriculture 277 Campeche 208 El Castillo 184-5 Zona Arqueológica El aguas frescas 267 Cancún 56-7, 15 El Castillo Real 88 Rey 56 Ah Tz’ib 273 Ciudad del Carmen El Cedral 86 architecture 219-20 air travel 295-6 El Osario 188 books 275 El Cuyo 199 airports 17, 295 El Palomar 163 colonial 21-2 Isla Contoy 13, 13 Aktun Chen 101 El Tabasqueño 215 Maya 274-6 Isla Cozumel 86 Aktun-Ha 121 area codes 292 El Tigre 222 Isla Holbox 10, 71, 10 Akumal 110-11, 35 Gran Juego de Pelota 185 art galleries, see also Isla Mujeres 77 alcohol 266-8 museums Gran Pirámide 163 Mahahual 129 algae 99 Museo de Arte Grupo de las Mil Playa del Carmen 103 aluxes 102 Contemporáneo 143 Columnas 185 Progreso 178 Ángeles Verdes 299 Grutas de Calcehtok 160 Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán 147 San Felipe 200 animals 278-80, see also Hochob 215 individual animals, Museo Subacuático de Telchac Puerto 180 Hormiguero 226 wildlife-watching Arte 57 Bécal 213-14 Isla Cerritos 197 ants, leaf-cutter 123 talleres de arte Becán 224-5 Izamal 183 archaeological sites 20, (Izamal) 181 beekeeping 219, 261 Kabah 164-5 37-41, 37, 39, 40, 41 arts 22, 157, 263-4 beer 267 Aguada Grande 88 Kinich-Kakmó 181 Atasta Peninsula 220 Belize 141, 296 Balamkú 221 Kohunlich 140 ATMs 290 Belize Barrier Reef 277 Becán 224-5 Labná 165 autumnal equinoxes, see bicycling 300-1 Bonampak 246-7 Mayapán 168-9 equinoxes birds & bird-watching 14, Oxkintok 160 Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13 Azul 106 199, 278-9, 14 Palacio del Casa de la Vieja 163 Bahías de Punta Gobernador 162 Casa de las Tortugas 162 Solimán 112 Palenque ruins 9, 241-3, B Casa del Adivino 162, Celestún 176 23 242, 8-9, 41 Bahía de San Francisco 112 Castillo de Kukulcán 169 Hacienda Real de Río Bec 226 Bahía Solimán 112 Salinas 174 Chicanná 224 San Gervasio Ruins 88 Bahías de Punta Isla Contoy 70 Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, Solimán 112 San Miguelito 56 Isla Holbox 71 184, 14, 40, 186-7 Balamkú 221 Santa Rita 140-1 Punta Laguna 124 Cobá 15, 121-4, 2, 15 ball courts 262 Sayil 165 Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Comalcalco 241 Templo de las Becán 224 Celestún 174 Inscripciones 242 Calaxmul 223 Río Lagartos 197 Map Pages 000 Templo del Barbado 185 Chichén Itzá 185, 186-7, Uaymitún 180 Photo Pages 000 Tohcok 215 186-7 Xcalak 131 312 bloodletting 272 day trips 68 cenotes 34, 166-7, 188, 277, chilies 268 blowholes 88 drinking & nightlife 66 278, 9, 166-7 chocolate 265 boat travel 197, 296-7, entertainment 67 Aktun-Ha 121 chocolaterías 211, 237 see also canoeing & food 54, 61-6 Azul 106 museums 163, 231 kayaking, tours highlights 55, 55 Ben Ha 124 Christianity 251, 262-3, Bonampak 246-7 history 56 Boca del Puma 99 273-4 INDEX books 250, 263 information 67-8 Cenote Angelita 114 Chunchucmil 177 architecture 40, 275 orientation 67 Cenote Azul 133 churches & cathedrals environment 280 safety 57, 67-8 Cenote Manatí 113 Catedral de Nuestra B- history 252, 254, 258 shopping 67 Cenote X’Kekén 9, 167, Señora de la Purísima C Concepción 203 Maya 256, 274 sights 56 192-3, 2, 9, 166-7 wildlife 278, 279 Cenote Xlacah 178 Catedral de San tours 58-9 Ildefonso 146 border crossings Cenote Zací 193 travel seasons 54 Convento de San Belize 141, 296 Cenotes de Cuzamá 169 travel to/from 69-70 Antonio de Padua 181 Guatemala 296 Cenotes Miguel travel within 70 Convento de Sisal 191 bus travel 297-8, 300 Colorado 222 canoeing & kayaking 176 Ex-Convento de safety 238 Cristalino Cenote 106 Bahías de Punta Santo Domingo de business hours 291 Solimán 112 Cuzamá 166, 167, Guzmán 230-1 169, 167 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 128 Franciscan church 173 Dos Ojos 112, 167, , Isla Holbox 72 34 166 Franciscan C Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167, Isla Mujeres 78 monastery 196 Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13 192-3, 2, 9, 166-7 Mahahual 130 Iglesia de Jesús 147 Calle 60 146-7 El Jardín del Edén 106 Xcalak 131 Iglesia de San Antonio cameras 291 Gran Cenote 120-1, 167, cantinas 49 de Padua 169 etiquette 264 21, 166 car travel 298-300 Iglesia de San Francisco camiones 300 Multún-Ha 123 de Asis 172, 213 safety 300 Campeche (city) 15, 201-13, Tamcach-Ha 123 Iglesia La Mejorada 147 Cárdenas, Guty 264 206-7, 15 Xcacel-Xcacelito 112 San Cristóbal de las Carnaval 24 accommodations 201, Zacil-Ha 121 Casas 230 Campeche 208 209-10 cerveza 267 Templo 230-1 Chetumal 135 activities 203-8 Chaltún Há 183 Templo de San Ciudad del Carmen 220 attractions 203-8 Champotón 217-18 Bernardino 191 Isla Cozumel 84 climate 201 Chetumal 134-9, 136 Templo de San Juan 238 Mérida 151 drinking 211 Chiapas 52, 227-39, cinemas entertainment 211 San Miguel de 241-8, 228-9 Cancún 67 Cozumel 91 festivals & events 208-9 accommodations 227 Isla Holbox 74 Casa de los Venados 191 food 201, 210-11 climate 227 Ciudad Cancún 59-61, 61-4, Casa de Montejo 143 highlights 202, 202 etiquette 247 66, 62 Casa del Adivino 162, history 203 23 food 227 Ciudad del Carmen Caste War, the 173, 257-8 219-20 information 212 highlights 228, 228-9 cathedrals, see churches & tours 208 history 230 climate 16, 24-5, 285 cathedrals travel seasons 201 safety 247 clothing 18 caves, see also cenotes travel to/from 212 travel seasons 227 Cobá 15, 121-4, 122, 2, 15 Aktun Chen 101 travel within 212-13 Chicanná 224 cochinita pibil 154, 10, 47 Grutas de Balankanché Campeche (state) 52, codices 256, 257 188-9 Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, 201-26, 202 , , , coffee 47, 231 Grutas de Calcehtok 160 184 14 40 186-7 Cancún 15, 50, 54-74, 55, accommodations 189-90 colectivos 301 Grutas de Loltún 168, 28 58, 15 activities 189 collect calls 292 Grutas de accommodations 54, Colombia Shallows 89 X’tacumbilxuna’an 215 food 190 59-61 Columbus, Christopher La Boca del Diablo 173 history 183 activities 57-8 255 Laguna de Mokú 222 information 190 beaches
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  • The Yucatán Is Home to Pearl-White Beaches and Deep Green

    The Yucatán Is Home to Pearl-White Beaches and Deep Green

    Strategies for 1 Seeing the Yucatán COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 8 Strategies for Seeing the Yucatán RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS 0 50 mi Isla Contoy RRíoío LLagartosagartos BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE Isla Holbox Bird Sanctuary Gulf of Mexico SSANAN FFELIPEELIPE RESERVERESERVE N NNATUREATURE RRESERVEESERVE 0 50 km 295 PProgresorogreso TTizimínizimín CancúnCancún IslaIsla MotulMotul 176 KantunilkinKantunilkin MujeresMujeres HunucmáHunucmá MéridaMérida CCelestúnelestún IIzamalzamal EkEk BalamBalam 180 RÍARÍA 281 180 180 CELESTÚNCELESTÚN D PPlayalaya ddelel NAT’LNAT’L 261 180 CCarmenarmen WILDLIFEWILDLIFE YUCATÁNY U C A T Á N VValladolidalladolid REFUGEREFUGE ChichénChichén 307 for Seeing the Yucatán TiculTicul IslaIsla dede LOSLOS ItzáItzá CobáCobá CozumelCozumel PETENESPETENES TTulumulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 180 UxmalUxmal TekaxTekax RESERVERESERVE 184 CCampecheampeche 261 295 307 HHopelchénopelchén FFelipeelipe CCarrilloarrillo PPuertouerto 261 Strategies 180 184 CaribbeanC a r i b b e a n EdznáEdzná SIANSIAN SeaS e a QUINTANAQ U I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN CChampotónhampotón ROOR O O BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 307 CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E RESERVERESERVE 261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE BBacalaracalar RESERVERESERVE DDzibanchézibanché 186 BBecánecán XXpujilpujil CChetumalhetumal BancoBanco FFranciscorancisco BahíaBahía ChinchorroChinchorro EEscárcegascárcega CChicannáhicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal KKohunlichohunlich CALAKMULCALAKMUL XXcalakcalak CCalakmulalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE Maya archaeological site BELIZEB E L I Z E Cuota (toll highway) GUATEMALAG U A T E M A L A he Yucatán is home to pearl-white beaches and deep green Tjungle, as well as pre-Colombian ruins and breakneck modern development. It encompasses three states—Yucatán, Campeche, and Quintana Roo—spread over 134,400 sq. km (52,400 sq. miles) and has 3,500 years of civic history since the Olmec developed the region’s first large-scale human settlements in 1500 B.C.
  • Cancún Cozumel

    Cancún Cozumel

    dventure GuideTM to the Yucatán Cancún& Cozumel Bruce & June Conord 2nd Edition Bruce & June Conord HUNTER HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC, 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818 732-225-1900; 800-255-0343; fax 732-417-1744 [email protected] Ulysses Travel Publications 4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec Canada H2W 2M5 514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448 Windsor Books The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-55650-908-1 © 2001 Hunter Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written per- mission of the publisher. This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain el- ements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions are the result of negligence, accident or any other cause. Cover photo: Girl in pool, Casa de los Sueños, Isla Mujeres © 2001 June Conord Back cover photo: Orange vendor © 2001 June Conord Maps by Kim André, © 2001 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Cach Mool logo © 2001 Bruce & June Conord; design by Judy Mazziotti ([email protected]) All other images © 2001 Bruce & June Conord 1234 Acknowledgements n iii Acknowledgements The authors wish to thank the Mexico Ministry of Tourism and the individual State Offices of Tourism for their invaluable help in preparing this guide.
  • Faro Celarain Ecological Reserve

    Faro Celarain Ecological Reserve

    DISCOVER A WORLD OF ACTIVITIES Atlantis Submarine | Faro Celarain Ecological Reserve | Chankanaab Park | Swimming with Dolphins | Horseback Riding | Discover Mexico | Island Museum | ATV Jungle Tours Cozumel Island Tour | Jeep Tour | Passion Island | San Gervasio | Chichen Itza | Snorkeling | Diving with Scuba Du | Deep-Sea Fishing | Eco Tour Sea Turtle Caribbean Pirates Lobster Dinner Cruise | 12-Meter Regatta | Harley Davidson Tour | Cozumel Country Club | Bird Watching at Cozumel Country Club ATLANTIS SUBMARINE We invite you to experience why Cozumel is one of the top diving destinations in the world. Go 100 ft. underwater and enjoy the magic onboard a real US Coast Guard Certificate submarine as you make the underwater journey to Chankanaab, home to a huge variety of sea life seen only by divers until now. Your submarine diving adventure begins on board the Ana, a ferry vessel that takes you on a 12-minute cruise along Cozumel’s west coast. Upon your arrival at the site, you will be transferred to the Atlantis submarine, where you will make an underwater trip to Chankanaab marine park, an environmentally protected natural area. As you cruise the ocean floor, you will view amazing formations, including 30-foot coral heads and a great variety of marine animals and tropical fish including parrotfish, grunts and groupers. Atlantis Submarine | Faro Celarain Ecological Reserve | Chankanaab Park | Swimming with Dolphins | Horseback Riding | Discover Mexico | Island Museum | ATV Jungle Tours Cozumel Island Tour | Jeep Tour | Passion Island | San Gervasio | Chichen Itza | Snorkeling | Diving with Scuba Du | Deep-Sea Fishing | Eco Tour Sea Turtle Caribbean Pirates Lobster Dinner Cruise | 12-Meter Regatta | Harley Davidson Tour | Cozumel Country Club | Bird Watching at Cozumel Country Club FARO CELARAIN ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Located on the southern tip of the island, it is the most important Ecotourism Project of the Cozumel Foundation of Parks and Museums.