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Cancun, Cozumel & the Yucatan 7

Cancun, Cozumel & the Yucatan 7

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 309

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OUR READERS Lucas Vidgen Many thanks to the travelers who used Thanks first and foremost to the Mexicans for the last edition and wrote to us with help- making such an enjoyable country to travel and ful hints, useful advice and interesting work in. Specifically, Andres and Sylvia were a anecdotes: huge help in San Cristóbal, and the section wouldn’t have been the same without Constantine Bogios, Jed Breed, Mara De Alonso Escobar and his compadre César. Monte, Sylvie Gelinas, David Hixson, Max And as always, thanks to América, Sofía and Holmberg, Patricia Kubala, Harriet Lawrence, Teresa for being there, and being there when I Adrien Maggiora, Stephane Schockaert, got back. Charice Silverman, Tomasz Smaczny, Felix Wagner, Estefania Walsh ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, AUTHOR THANKS Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated John Hecht World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Thanks to the countless number of good Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System people in the Yucatán who helped make this Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. wonderful journey so special. Special gratitude goes out to commissioning editor Cliff Wilkin- Chichén Itzá illustration pp186–7 by Michael son, co-author Lucas Vidgen, the book’s pre- Weldon vious authors, Yurij Gabassi and my wife, Lau, Cover photograph: at Dzitnup who looked after two hyperactive kitties. (X’Kekén), JoseIgnacioSoto/Getty Images ©. 310 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

ricio Velázquez de León. This Assisting Editors Sarah THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Bruce This 7th edition of Lonely the following: Evans, Paul Harding, Lauren Planet’s Cancún, & Destination Editor Clifton O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Vicky the Yucatán guidebook was re- Wilkinson Smith, Fionnuala Twomey searched and written by John Product Editors Kate Chap- Assisting Cartographer Hecht and Lucas Vidgen. The man, Saralinda Turner Valentina Kremenchutskaya previous edition was written Senior Cartographer Mark Cover Researcher Naomi by John Hecht and Sandra Griffiths Parker Bao. The ‘Yucatecan Cuisine’ Book Designer Michael Buick Thanks to Andi Jones, Karyn chapter was written by Mau- Noble, Lyahna Spencer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311

Index

A Corredor Arqueológico tours 41 Cobá 122 accommodations 18, 284-6 139-40 ruins 11, 114, 115, ruins 243 language 302-3 Cuadrángulo de las 114, 11, 27 162 Monjas 162 travel with children 43 Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23, baluartes 204 Dzibanché 139-40 activities 24-5, 286, see also 37, 39 banks 290 canoeing & kayaking, Dzibilchaltún 177-8 Xcambó 180 bargaining 19 diving & , Dzibilnocac 215-16 165 baseball 172, 262 horseback riding, Edzná 216-17, 216, 29 225 bathhouses 196, 274 kiteboarding, surfing, Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5 Yamil Lu’um 56 zip-lining beaches 20 El 188 Yaxchilán 246, 247-8 agriculture 277 Campeche 208 El Castillo 184-5 Zona Arqueológica El aguas frescas 267 Cancún 56-7, 15 El Castillo Real 88 Rey 56 Ah Tz’ib 273 Ciudad del Carmen El Cedral 86 architecture 219-20 air travel 295-6 El Osario 188 books 275 El Cuyo 199 airports 17, 295 El Palomar 163 colonial 21-2 13, 13 Aktun Chen 101 El Tabasqueño 215 Maya 274-6 Isla Cozumel 86 Aktun-Ha 121 area codes 292 El Tigre 222 10, 71, 10 110-11, 35 Gran Juego de Pelota 185 art galleries, see also 77 alcohol 266-8 museums Gran Pirámide 163 129 algae 99 Museo de Arte Grupo de las Mil 103 aluxes 102 Contemporáneo 143 Columnas 185 Progreso 178 Ángeles Verdes 299 Grutas de Calcehtok 160 Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán 147 San Felipe 200 animals 278-80, see also Hochob 215 individual animals, Museo Subacuático de Telchac Puerto 180 Hormiguero 226 wildlife-watching Arte 57 Bécal 213-14 Isla Cerritos 197 ants, leaf-cutter 123 talleres de arte Becán 224-5 183 archaeological sites 20, (Izamal) 181 beekeeping 219, 261 164-5 37-41, 37, 39, 40, 41 arts 22, 157, 263-4 beer 267 Aguada Grande 88 Kinich-Kakmó 181 Atasta Peninsula 220 141, 296 Balamkú 221 140 ATMs 290 Belize Barrier 277 Becán 224-5 Labná 165 autumnal equinoxes, see bicycling 300-1 246-7 Mayapán 168-9 equinoxes birds & bird-watching 14, 160 13, 221-4, 13 Azul 106 199, 278-9, 14 Palacio del Casa de la Vieja 163 Bahías de Punta Gobernador 162 Casa de las Tortugas 162 Solimán 112 Palenque ruins 9, 241-3, B Casa del Adivino 162, Celestún 176 23 242, 8-9, 41 Bahía de San Francisco 112 Castillo de Kukulcán 169 Hacienda Real de Río Bec 226 Bahía Solimán 112 Salinas 174 Chicanná 224 Ruins 88 Bahías de Punta Isla Contoy 70 Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, Solimán 112 San Miguelito 56 Isla Holbox 71 184, 14, 40, 186-7 Balamkú 221 Santa Rita 140-1 Punta Laguna 124 Cobá 15, 121-4, 2, 15 ball courts 262 165 Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Comalcalco 241 Templo de las Becán 224 Celestún 174 Inscripciones 242 Calaxmul 223 Río Lagartos 197 Map Pages 000 Templo del Barbado 185 Chichén Itzá 185, 186-7, Uaymitún 180 Photo Pages 000 Tohcok 215 186-7 131 312 bloodletting 272 day trips 68 34, 166-7, 188, 277, chilies 268 blowholes 88 drinking & nightlife 66 278, 9, 166-7 chocolate 265 boat travel 197, 296-7, entertainment 67 Aktun-Ha 121 chocolaterías 211, 237 see also canoeing & food 54, 61-6 Azul 106 museums 163, 231 kayaking, tours highlights 55, 55 Ben Ha 124 Christianity 251, 262-3, Bonampak 246-7 history 56 Boca del Puma 99 273-4 INDEX INDEX books 250, 263 information 67-8 Cenote Angelita 114 177 architecture 40, 275 orientation 67 Cenote Azul 133 churches & cathedrals environment 280 safety 57, 67-8 Cenote Manatí 113 Catedral de Nuestra B- history 252, 254, 258 shopping 67 Cenote X’Kekén 9, 167, Señora de la Purísima 

C Concepción 203  Maya 256, 274 sights 56 192-3, 2, 9, 166-7 wildlife 278, 279 Cenote Xlacah 178 Catedral de San tours 58-9 Ildefonso 146 border crossings Cenote Zací 193 travel seasons 54 Convento de San Belize 141, 296 Cenotes de Cuzamá 169 travel to/from 69-70 Antonio de Padua 181 296 Cenotes Miguel travel within 70 Convento de Sisal 191 bus travel 297-8, 300 Colorado 222 canoeing & kayaking 176 Ex-Convento de safety 238 Cristalino Cenote 106 Bahías de Punta Santo Domingo de business hours 291 Solimán 112 Cuzamá 166, 167, Guzmán 230-1 169, 167 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 128 Franciscan church 173 Dos Ojos 112, 167, , Isla Holbox 72 34 166 Franciscan C Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167, Isla Mujeres 78 monastery 196 Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13 192-3, 2, 9, 166-7 Mahahual 130 Iglesia de Jesús 147 Calle 60 146-7 El Jardín del Edén 106 Xcalak 131 Iglesia de San Antonio cameras 291 Gran Cenote 120-1, 167, cantinas 49 de Padua 169 etiquette 264 21, 166 car travel 298-300 Iglesia de San Francisco camiones 300 Multún-Ha 123 de Asis 172, 213 safety 300 Campeche (city) 15, 201-13, Tamcach-Ha 123 Iglesia La Mejorada 147 Cárdenas, Guty 264 206-7, 15 Xcacel-Xcacelito 112 San Cristóbal de las Carnaval 24 accommodations 201, Zacil-Ha 121 Casas 230 Campeche 208 209-10 cerveza 267 Templo 230-1 135 activities 203-8 Chaltún Há 183 Templo de San Ciudad del Carmen 220 attractions 203-8 Champotón 217-18 Bernardino 191 Isla Cozumel 84 climate 201 Chetumal 134-9, 136 Templo de San Juan 238 Mérida 151 drinking 211 Chiapas 52, 227-39, cinemas entertainment 211 San Miguel de 241-8, 228-9 Cancún 67 Cozumel 91 festivals & events 208-9 accommodations 227 Isla Holbox 74 Casa de los Venados 191 food 201, 210-11 climate 227 Ciudad Cancún 59-61, 61-4, Casa de Montejo 143 highlights 202, 202 etiquette 247 66, 62 Casa del Adivino 162, history 203 23 food 227 Ciudad del Carmen Caste War, the 173, 257-8 219-20 information 212 highlights 228, 228-9 cathedrals, see churches & tours 208 history 230 climate 16, 24-5, 285 cathedrals travel seasons 201 safety 247 clothing 18 caves, see also cenotes travel to/from 212 travel seasons 227 Cobá 15, 121-4, 122, 2, 15 Aktun Chen 101 travel within 212-13 Chicanná 224 cochinita pibil 154, 10, 47 Grutas de Balankanché Campeche (state) 52, codices 256, 257 188-9 Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, 201-26, 202 , , , coffee 47, 231 Grutas de Calcehtok 160 184 14 40 186-7 Cancún 15, 50, 54-74, 55, accommodations 189-90 colectivos 301 Grutas de Loltún 168, 28 58, 15 activities 189 collect calls 292 Grutas de accommodations 54, Colombia Shallows 89 X’tacumbilxuna’an 215 food 190 59-61 Columbus, Christopher La Boca del Diablo 173 history 183 activities 57-8 255 Laguna de Mokú 222 information 190 beaches 56-7 Comalcalco 241 Las Grutas de Rancho sights 184-9 children, travel with 65 combis 301 Nuevo 238 travel to/from 190 courses 58 comiteco 236 CDs 264 travel within 190-1 consulates 286-7 Celestún 14, 174-7, 14 chikungunya virus 288 children, travel with Corozal 140-1 Map Pages 000 cell phones 16, 292 22-3, 42-4 Corredor Arqueológico Photo Pages 000 Cenote Angelita 114 Cancún 65 139-40 Cenote X’Kekén 192-3, 2 313 , the 51, Cancún 57 F language 269-71, 303-4 126-41, 127 Isla Cozumel 11, 88, Felipe Carrillo Puerto 128-9 seasons 46 festivals & events 126 89-90, 11, 32, 36 festivals & events forts food 126 Isla Mujeres 77, 78 24-5, 220 Fuerte de San Miguel highlights 127, 127 Mahahual 129-30 Campeche 208-9 206 travel seasons 126 Museo Subacuático de Carnaval 24, 84, 91, 135, Fuerte Museo San José costs 17, 48, 285 Arte 57 151, 208, 220 del Alto 207 INDEX courses 286 Paamul 110 Cruzando Fronteras 130 Laguna 133 cooking 47, 100, 149, 151 Parque Dos Ojos 112 Día de la Marina 198 fútbol 262 -dance 58, 72, 74, 105, Playa del Carmen Día de los Reyes  C Magos 196  H 105 ,103 151 ,108 language 23, 100, 105, 99 Día de Muertos 25, 151, G galleries, see art galleries, 149, 231, 234 125 267-8, 45 museums yoga 72, 82, 234, 235 safety 36 Feria de la Primavera y gay travelers 287 Cozumel, see Isla Cozumel shipwrecks 99, 129, de la Paz 234 geography 277-82 crafts 22, 157 158, 36 Feria del Cedral 91 glossary 269-71, 307-8 cranial deformation 135 Tulum 114 Festival Cervantino Gran Cenote 120-1, 167, credit cards 16, 290, 292 Xcalak 132 Barroco 234 21, 166 Cristalino Cenote 106 Dos Ojos (cenote) 112, 167, Festival de las Great Maya Barrier Reef 277 crocodiles 279 34, 166 Culturas 234 Green Angels 299 Celestún 176 drinking water 289 fiesta food 267-8 Grutas de Calcehtok 160 Champotón 217 drinks 49, 236, 266-7 Jats’a Já Festival 130 Grutas de Loltún 168, 28-9 Crococun Zoo 65 driving, see car travel La Feria de Santiago 198 Guatemala 296 Laguna de Nichupté 57 drugs 250 Mérida 24, 151 Río Lagartos 197 DVDs 264, 288 97 Dzibanché 139-40 Semana Santa 234 Tabasco 239 H Dzibilchaltún 177-8 Yaxchilán 248 Vernal Equinox 24 habanero chilies 268 Dzilam de Bravo 180 Cuauhtémoc 183 films 250 Habuk 183 Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167, culture 260-4 fish 279-80 haciendas 175, 177 192-3, 2, 9, 166-7 currency 16, 17, 290 fishing Hacienda Mundaca 83 customs regulations 286 Cancún 57 Hacienda Real de Celestún 176 Cuzamá 166, 167, 167 E Salinas 174 cycling, see bicycling economy 251 Chetumal 135 Hacienda San Ildefonso Teya 175 ecotourism 71, 281 Dzilam de Bravo 180 Isla Holbox 71 Hacienda San Lorenzo Edzná 216-17, 216, 29 D Isla Mujeres 77-8 Oxman 191-2 Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5 dance 22, 264 Mahahual 130 Hacienda San Pedro lessons 58, 72, 74, 105, El Castillo 184-5 Ochil 175 Playa del Carmen 108, 151 El Corchito 178 103, 105 Hacienda Santa Rosa 175 dangers, see safety El Cuyo 199 Punta Allen 125 Hacienda Xcanatún 175 Day of the Dead 25, 151, El Jardín del Edén 106 Río Lagartos 198 Hacienda Yaxcopoil 175 267-8, 45 electricity 286 San Felipe 200 hammocks 156 day trips embassies 286-7 Xcalak 132 handicrafts 22, 157 Cancún 68 emergencies 17 health 287-9 flamingos 14, 180, 197, 199, Chiapas 244 language 304 281, 14, see also birds insurance 289 Mérida 158 endangered species 280 & bird-watching heat exhaustion 289 Yucatán 170 environment 277-82 food 10, 22, 45-9, 265-71, Hecelchakán 213 dengue fever 288 environmental issues 282 10, 45, 47, 48, 49, hepatitis A 288 Día de la Marina 198 equinoxes 24, 178, 183, see also individual highlights 185, 276 Día de Muertos 25, 151, locations Campeche 202 267-8, Estructura 44 178 45 Campechano cuisine 210 Cancún 55 Díaz, Porfirio 258 etiquette 19 chocolate 163, 211, 231, Chiapas 228 disabilities, travelers Chiapas 247 237, 265 Costa Maya 127 with 293 dining 49 coffee 47, 231 Isla Cozumel 85 discounts 19, 286 photography 247, 264 cooking courses 47, 100, Isla Mujeres 76 diving & snorkeling 20, events, see festivals & 149, 151 Riviera Maya 98 32-6, see also cenotes events etiquette 49 Tabasco 228 Akumal 111, 35 exchange rates 17 honey 219, 261, 267 129 Yucatán 144 314 hiking internet access 289 K community-based Cenotes Miguel internet resources 17 Kabah 164-5 tourism 41, 71 Colorado 222 culture 262 Kan B’alam II 241 history 252-5 Isla Contoy 70 environment 281 K’an Joy Chitam II 241 honey 219 San Cristóbal de las history 253, 259 kayaking, see canoeing & internet resources 40, Casas 230 Maya books 255 kayaking 255, 259 INDEX INDEX Síijil Noh Há 128 Maya ruins 40 Kimbilá 183 museums 38, 135, 147, history 178, 231 music 264 kiteboarding 57, 199 Popol Vuh 273 books 252, 254, 258 wildlife 282

H- religion 272-4  Campeche 203 Isla Aguada 218

M Mayapán 168-9  Cancún 56 Isla Cerritos 197 L Caste War, the 173, 257-8 La Feria de Santiago 198 meal times 268 Isla Contoy 13, 70-1, 13 la lotería 211 measures 288 Chiapas 230 Isla Cozumel 11, 51, 84-96, Méndez, Sierra Justo 205 Chichén Itzá 183 85, 87, 90 Lacandón Jungle 248 Mennonites 208 Cobá 121 accommodations lacandones 240, 248 Independence 257 84, 91-3 Laguna Bacalar 12, 133-4, Mérida 12, 143-60, 148-9, 12 internet resources activities 88-91 2, 12 accommodations 151-3 253, 259 drinking & nightlife 94 Laguna de Términos 218-19 activities 149 Isla Cozumel 85-6 entertainment 95 Laguna Yal-Kú 110-11 courses 149 Isla Mujeres 77 festivals & events 91 Landa, Friar Diego de 256 drinking & nightlife 155 Maya 252-5 food 84, 93-4 language 251, 260, 302-8 entertainment 155 courses 23, 100, 105, Mérida 143 highlights 85, 85 festivals & events 151 149, 231, 234 Mexican Revolution 258-9 history 85-6 food 153-5 food & drinks 269-71, oil production 259 information 95 history 143 303-4 Olmec influence 252 shopping 95 information 156-7 Spanish 302-5 Spanish conquest & sights 86-8 orientation 156 colonial period 255-7 useful phrases 19 travel seasons 84 shopping 155-6 Toltecs 254 Yucatec Maya 306 travel to/from 95 sights 143-9 Tulum 113 Las Coloradas 199 travel within 95-6 tours 149-51 Uxmal 161-2 leaf-cutter ants 123 Isla de Pájaros 218 travel to/from 157-9 Valladolid 191 legal matters 289 Isla Holbox 10, 71-4, 10 travel within 159-63 hitchhiking 300 lesbian travelers 287 Isla Mujeres 12, 50, 76, 80 Mérida Fest 24, 151 holidays 291 literature, see books accommodations Mesoamerican Barrier honey 219, 261, 267 Loltún Caverns, see Grutas Reef 277 75, 78-9 de Loltún Hopelchén 214 activities 77-8 meteorites 253 Hormiguero 226 beaches 77 mezcalerías 49 horseback riding drinking & nightlife 82 M mobile phones 16, 292 Boca del Puma 44, 99 food 75, 79-82 Mahahual 129-31 money 17, 290 Celestún 174, 176 bargaining 19 highlights 76, 76 malaria 288 Isla Cozumel 90, 93 history 77 Malecón 205 discount cards 286 Isla Holbox 72 information 82-3 Mamita’s Beach 103 discounts 19 Punta Venado 109 orientation 82 mammals 279 taxes 265 hurricanes 125, 131, 250, 278 tours 77-8 maps 289-90, 299 tipping 19, 265, 290 Hwy 27 179 travel seasons 75 markets 102 transfers 290 travel to/from 83 Cancún 67 monkeys 279 Mérida 146 Montejo, Francisco de I travel within 83 Oxkutzcab 171 254, 255 immigration 295 itineraries 26-9 San Cristóbal de las Montejo, Francisco de incense 256 Itzá 254-5 Casas 231 (the Younger) 143, 191, indigenous peoples 240 Itzamatul 183 254, 255 Valladolid 191 insects 231 Izamal 181-3 mosquitoes 18, 71, 288 Maya 172, 272-6, see insurance also archaeological motorcycle travel 298 car 299 mugging 291-2 J sites murals 146 health 289 jaguars 124, 163, 279, 282 architecture 37-41, 274-6 museums 219, see also art jipijapas 214 body art 135 galleries Map Pages juego de pelotas, see ball books 40, 256, 274 000 Café Museo Café 231 Photo Pages 000 courts calendar 41, 257, 276 codices 256, 257 Casa de los Venados 191 315 Casa de Montejo 143 Parque Nacional Isla Cancún, Cozumel & religion 251, 262-3, 272-4 Centro Cultural y Contoy 70-1 Yucatán regions 50 resorts 20, 60 Artesanal 181 Parque Nacional children, travel with 22-3, Río Bec 226 Centro Ecológico Palenque 241-2 42-4, 65 Río Lagartos 197-9 Akumal 110 Parque 86, 88 first-time visitors 18-19 Riviera Maya 51, 97-125, 98 Choco-Story 163 Reserva de la Biosfera food 45-9 beaches 97

Calakmul 222 INDEX Gran Museo del Mundo internet resources 17 festivals & events 97 Maya 147 Reserva de la Biosfera itineraries 26-9 food 97 Maya 38 Ría Celestún 174 off the beaten track highlights 98, 98

-Reserva de la Biosfera  M Museo Arqueológico de 30-1, 30-1 Campeche & Fuerte de Ría Lagartos 197 travel seasons 97 travel seasons 16, 24-5  S San Miguel 206 Sian Ka’an Biosphere robbery 291-2 vaccinations 287-8 Museo Arqueológico del Reserve 124-5 Ruta Puuc 165-8 Camino Real 213 newspapers 288 plants 280-1 Museo Bichos e nightlife 22, 49 Playa del Carmen 103-9, 104 Insectos 231 numbers 303 S Museo Capitán accommodations 105-7 Sabancuy 218 Dulché 77 activities 103-5 safety 291-2 Museo de Historia O beaches 103 Cancún 57, 67-8 Natural 239 Olmec people 252 drinking & nightlife 108 Chiapas 247 Museo de la Arquitectura opening hours 291 food 107-8 children, with 42-3 Maya 204 Oxkintok 160 information 109 diving & snorkeling 36 Museo de la Ciudad 135, Oxkutzcab 171-2 safety 109 hitchhiking 300 146, 204 shopping 108 Playa del Carmen 109 Museo de la Cultura tours 105 road 300 Maya 135 P travel to/from 109 San Cristóbal de las Museo de la Guerra de Paamul 109-10 travel within 109 Casas 238 Castas 173 packing lists 18 Plaza Grande 143-6 Tulum 120 Museo de la Isla de Pakal 241 Cozumel 86 Plaza Principal 203-4 women travelers 294 Palancar Gardens 89 Museo de la Medicina politics 250-1 salsa lessons 58, 72, 74, Palenque 241-5 105, 108, 151 Maya 231 Popol Vuh 273 Palenque ruins 9, 241-3, San Crisanto 180 Museo de Naturaleza y population 208, 240, 242, 8-9, 41 San Cristóbal de las Casas Arqueología 221-2 251, 261-2 panuchos 47, 49 11, 230-8, 232-3, 11 Museo de San Roque 191 postal services 291 parks & gardens, see accommodations 234-6 Museo de Sitio 242 pox 236 also national parks & courses 231, 234 Museo del Ámbar de reserves pozol 236 Chiapas 231 drinking & nightlife 237 Jardín Botánico Dr Progreso 178-9 Museo del Archivo festivals & events 234 Alfredo Barrera public holidays 291 General de Estado 204 food 236-7 Marín 99 Puerto Morelos 99-103, Museo del Cacao 231 21 information 237 Jardín Botánico Xmuch Punta Allen 124, 125 Museo del Pueblo Haltún 204 safety 238 Punta Bete 103 Maya 178 Parque-Museo La sights 230-1 Museo Maya de Venta 239 Punta Laguna 124 tours 234, 238 Cancún 56 Parque Santa Lucía 146 Punta Molas 88 travel to/from 237-8 Museo Regional de Punta Sur 77 Punta Sur Reef 89 travel within 238 Antropología 147, 239 Parroquia Los Santos Punta Venado 109 San Felipe 200 Na Bolom 231 Reyes de Tizimín 196 Puuc Route 165-8 tours 200 Parque-Museo La Paseo de Montejo 147-9 pyramids 272, 273, San Gervasio 88 Venta 239 275, 276, see also passports 295 San Juan Chamula 238-9 Santa Elena Museum 163 archaeological sites phone cards 293 music 263-4 photography 291 86, 90 etiquette 247, 264 Q Santa Clara 180 N pickpocketing 291-2 , see Santa Elena 163-4 national parks & reserves pirates 205 individual locations Santa Rosa Wall 89 20-1, 281-2, see planning scorpions also parks & gardens, budgeting 17 bites 289 wildlife reserves calendar of events 24-5 R symbolism 240 El Corchito 178 ramparts 204 Cancún, Cozumel & the , see diving & Parque Dos Ojos 112 Yucatán basics 16-17 recados 266 snorkeling 316 sea turtles, see turtles time 16, 293 Tulum ruins 11, 114, 115, wildlife-watching 197, 218, seaweed 99 language 305 114, 11, 27 see also birds & bird-­ Selva Lacandona 248 tipping 19, 265, 290 turtles 280 watching, individual species Selvática 101 Tizimín 196-7 Akumal 110-11, 35 windsurfing 93 Semana Santa 151 Tohcok 215 Isla Contoy 54 women travelers 294 shipwrecks 99, 129, Toltecs 254 Isla Mujeres 12, 75,

INDEX INDEX 78, World Heritage sites 158, 36 toucans 124, 222, 239, 12 smoking 288 241, see also birds & Paamul 110 Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13 snake bites 289 bird-watching Puerto Morelos 99 Campeche 15, 52,

, ,S- 201-26  snorkeling, see diving & tourist information 293 Sabancuy 218 202

Z 206-7, 15  snorkeling tours volunteering 294 Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, soccer 262 Atasta Peninsula 220 Xcacel-Xcacelito 112 184, 14, 40, 186-7 sopa de lima 10, 43, 47, Campeche 208 TV 288 Palenque ruins 9, 241-3, 266, 48 typhoid fever 288 Cancún 58-9, 65 242, 8-9, 41 Southern Caribbean Coast, Tzeltal people 230, 240 Celestún 174, 176 Sian Ka’an 124-5 see Costa Maya, the Tzotzil people 230, 238, Isla Contoy 70 Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23, Spanish language 302-5 240, 263 Isla Holbox 71-2 37, 39 spelling 260 Isla Mujeres 77-8 sports 262 Laguna Bacalar 133 sunburn 289 U X Maya ruins 41 Uaymitún 180 surfing Xcacel-Xcacelito 111-12 Mérida 149-51 Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23, Cancún 57 Xcalak 131-2 Playa del Carmen 105 37, 39 Isla Cozumel 91 Xcambó 180 Río Lagartos 197-8 sweat lodges 196, 274 101 San Cristóbal de las swimming 21, , see also 34 Casas 234, 238 V Xel-Há 101 beaches, cenotes San Felipe 200 vacations 291 X’Kekén (cenote) 9, 167, Chichén Itzá 189 Tulum 114 Valladolid 191-5, 192 192-3, 2, 9, 166-7 El Corchito 178 Valladolid 193 vegan travelers 268 Xplor 101 Hacienda San Lorenzo vegetarian travelers 268 Xpu-Há 110 Oxman 191-2 traditional clothes 157, 263, 264 Velázquez, Diego 255 Xpujil 225 Laguna Bacalar 133 transportation 295-301 vernal equinoxes 24, see language 305 also equinoxes Y travel seasons 16, 34 video 291 T Yaxchilán 246, 247-8 Tabasco 227-8, 239-41, travel to/from Cancún, Villahermosa 239-41 yoga classes 72, 82, 234, 228-9 Cozumel & the Yucatán visas 16, 293-4 235 talking cross 258 141, 295-7 volunteering 294 Yucatán state 52, Tankah 113 travel within Cancún, 142-200, 144-5 Cozumel & the Yucatán tascalate 236 accommodations 142 taxes 265, 290, 296 297-301 W walking, see hiking, festivals & events 142 taxis 301 traveling off the beaten track 30-1, 30-1 national parks & food 142 Tekax 172-3 reserves trekking, see hiking, highlights 144-5, 144-5 telephone services 16, 292-3 national parks & water 289 travel seasons 142 temascals 196, 274 reserves water parks 44, 65, 101 Yucatec Maya 306 Temple of the Seven Tulum 113-20, 114, 116-17 weather 16, 24-5, 285 Dolls 178 accommodations 114-18 websites, see internet Templo de las Siete activities 114 resources Z Muñecas 178 drinking & nightlife 119 288 Zacil-Ha 121 theaters food 118-19 whale sharks 25, 35, 72, zip-lining 99, 101, 105, 121, Cancún 67 279, 280 123, 124, 196, 222 history 113 Mérida 146, 147 Isla Contoy 70 Zoh-Laguna 226 information 120 theft 291-2 Isla Holbox 54, 71 Zona Hotelera 61, 64-6, 66 orientation 119-20 theme parks 44, 65, 101 Isla Mujeres 75, 77, 78 zoos, see also wildlife safety 120 Ticul 169-71 wildlife 278-81 reserves shopping 119 173 books 279 Crococun Zoo 65 sights 114 wildlife reserves, see Parque-Museo La tours 114 Map Pages 000 national parks & Venta 239 travel to/from 120 reserves, wildlife-­ Photo Pages 000 Parque Zoológico del travel within 120 watching, zoos Centenario 146 317 NOTES 318 NOTES SONIA GOUPIL

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway/Subte station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS John Hecht Cancún & Around, Isla Mujeres, Isla Cozumel, Riviera Maya, Costa Maya & the Southern Caribbean, Yucatán State & the Maya Heartland John has spent more than 20 years living in , during which time he has contributed to numer- ous editions of the Lonely Planet Mexico book. He was coordinating author on the previous edition of LP’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán and he produced a series of short videos shot in the Yucatán region for Lonely Planet TV. He lives in Mexico City with his Mexican wife. Mom’s still waiting for him to return to the good ole’ USA. John also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand (except Yucatecan Cuisine), and Survival Guide chapters.

Lucas Vidgen Campeche, Chiapas Lucas first visited Mexico back in 2002, breezing through the Yucatán long enough to be captivated by the lush scenery and irresistible food. Later he moved to Guatemala, which served as a good base for exploring Chiapas and the rest of the Mundo Maya. Lucas has contributed to a variety of Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Central and South America. Back home he publishes – and very occasionally works on – Quetzaltenango’s leading nightlife magazine, XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).

Contributing Writer Mauricio Velázquez de León was born in Mexico City, where he was given boiled chicken feet and toasted corn tortillas to sooth his teething pains. He is the author of My Foodie ABC: A Little Gourmet’s Guide (Duo Press, 2010) and lives in Maryland with his wife and twin sons, whose teething pains were soothed with toasted corn tortillas. Mauricio wrote the Yucatecan Cuisine chapter in this book.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Ltd CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 7th edition – September 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 017 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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