Cancún & the Yucatán

Home , Bacalar Municipality, Baluarte de Santiago, Calica, Campeche City, Chacchoben, Isla Holbox

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Cancún & the Yucatán dayBYday 1st Edition

by Irene & Bill Sunley 03_081198 flast.qxp 1/23/07 9:26 AM Page iv 01_081198 ffirs.qxp 1/23/07 3:13 PM Page i

Cancún & the Yucatán dayBYday 1st Edition

by Irene & Bill Sunley 02_081198 ftoc.qxp 1/23/07 9:25 AM Page ii

16 Favorite Moments 1 1 Strategies for Seeing the Yucatán 7 Strategies for Seeing the Yucatán 8 2 The Best Full-Day Tours 11 The Best of the Yucatán in Three Days 12 The Best of the Yucatán in One Week 16 The Best of the Yucatán in Two Weeks 22 3 Best of the Yucatán Outdoors 27 The Best Yucatán Beaches 28 Underwater Yucatán 32 The Best Yucatán Golf Courses 36 4 The Best Special-Interest Tours 39 The Yucatán for Ecotourists 40 The Yucatán for Families 48 The Pre-Columbian Yucatán 54 The Riviera Maya’s Best Spas 62 The Yucatán for Birdwatchers 66 5 The Best Regional Tours 69 The Riviera Maya 70 Where to Stay & Dine 75 The Central Yucatán 76 Campeche & Southern Quintana Roo 80 Where to Stay & Dine 83 The Western Yucatán 84 Where to Stay & Dine 88 6 Charming Cities & Towns 89 Campeche 90 Where to Stay 94 Where to Dine 95 Cozumel 96 Where to Stay 100 02_081198 ftoc.qxp 1/23/07 9:25 AM Page iii

Where to Dine 101 Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) 102 Where to Stay 106 Where to Dine 107 Mérida 108 Where to Stay 117 Where to Dine 119 Playa del Carmen 120 Where to Stay 122 Where to Dine 123 Valladolid 124 Where to Stay & Dine 128 7 Cancún 129 The Best of Cancún in One Day 130 Hotel Zone Hotels & Restaurants 134 Cancún City Hotels & Restaurants 135 Cancún Dining Best Bets 136 Cancún Restaurants A to Z 137 Cancún Hotel Best Bets 140 Cancún Hotels A to Z 141 Cancun Nightlife & Shopping 146 Cancún Nightlife Best Bets 147 Cancún Nightlife A to Z 148 Cancún Shopping A to Z 152 The Savvy Traveler 157 Before You Go 158 Getting There 161 Getting Around 162 Fast Facts 163 Yucatán History 166 Yucatecan Architecture 168 Spanish Basics 170 Index 175 03_081198 flast.qxp 1/23/07 9:26 AM Page iv

Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc.

111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Pub- lishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN: 978-0-470-08119-8 Editor: Maureen Clarke Production Editor: Michael Brumitt Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in China 54321 03_081198 flast.qxp 1/23/07 9:26 AM Page v

A Note from the Publisher Organizing your time. That’s what this book is all about.

Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day series is different. These guides direct you to the best of everything and then show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.

Hoping to retreat from civilization? Lose your cares on a pristine white Caribbean beach, or under aquamarine waters on a coral reef teeming with Technicolor fish? Maybe you’d rather pamper yourself in a coconut paste and banana leaf wrap at a seaside spa? Or trace the footsteps of the ancient Maya among the Yucatán’s many pre-Columbian ruins? Whatever your interests or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. We take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants. And what’s more, we help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.

The Day by Days are your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here.

Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments my way at [email protected], and I’ll pass them on.

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.

Warm regards,

Michael Spring, Publisher 03_081198 flast.qxp 1/23/07 9:26 AM Page vi

Frommer’s Travel Guides

About the Authors Irene and Bill Sunley are the authors of six Latin America travel guides, one of which garnered three national travel-writing awards. They live in Mexico part-time.

Acknowledgments We wish to thank Rodrigo Esponda, director of the Mexico Tourism Board in New York City, as well as Patricia López Mancera, director of Public Rela- tions at the Cancún Convention and Visitor’s Bureau, and her assistant, Israel Urbina. Ana Mari Irabien, director of Public Relations for Cancún, helped us, as did local historian, Harry Webb. To all of you: Gracias!

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, edi- tors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee cup–shaped bullet P.

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard 03_081198 flast.qxp 1/23/07 9:26 AM Page vii

Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,500 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers. com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

• Online updates of our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

Cost Hotels Restaurants $ under $100 under $10 $$ $100–$200 $10–$20 $$$ $200–$300 $20–$30 $$$$ $300–$400 $30–$40 $$$$$ over $400 over $40

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommer’s Cancún & the Yucatán, Day by Day, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 04_081198 moments.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page viii 04_081198 moments.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 1

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2 16 Favorite Moments

0 50 mi GulfG u l f ofo f MMexicoe x i c o IslaIsla ContoyContoy RÍARÍA LLAGARTOSAGARTOS BirdBird SSanctuaryanctuary N BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE Moments 0 50 km SANSAN FFELIPEELIPE RESERVERESERVE NATURENATURE RRESERVEESERVE RíoRío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla HHolboxolbox 9

8 ProgresoProgreso 295 13 12 TizimTTizimínizimín MotulMotul 176 CancúnCancCancún HunucmáHunucmHunucmá MMéridaérridaida 15 KantunilkinKantunilkin 180 IslaIsla 16 Favorite 16 Favorite CelestúnCelestCelestún IzamalIzamal 281 295 MujeresMujeres RRÍAÍA 10 14 180 11 180 CELESTÚNCELESTCELESTÚN 3 D PlayaPlaya deldel NNATIONALATIONAL 180 CarmenCarmen WILDLIFEWILDLIFE 261 ValladolidValladolid ChichCChichénhichén ItzIItzátzá 6 7 REFUGEREFUGE 307 IslaIsla ddee TiculTicul CozumelCozumel LOSLOS YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN CobCCobáobá 16 PETENESPETENES UUxmalxmal TulumTulum 4 BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 180 TekaxTekax RESERVERESERVE PPlayalaya SSolimanoliman 184 1 307 CampecheCampeche 261 295 2 PuntaPunta AllenAllen 5 261 HopelchHHopelchénopelchén FelipeFelipe CarrilloCarrillo 180 PuertoPuerto BahBBahíaahía dede llaa AAscensiónAscensiscensión EdznEEdznádzná 184 SIANSIAN BahíaBahBahía deldel ChampotónCChampothampotón QQUINTANAU I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN EspírituEspEspírituritu SantoSanto ROOR O O 307 BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E RESERVERESERVE 261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL CCaribbeana r i b b e a n BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE SeaS e a RESERVERESERVE DzibanchDDzibanchézibanché BacalarBacalar 186 BBecánBececán XXpujilpujil ChetumalChetumal FranciscoFrancisco BahíaBahBahía BancoBanco EscárcegaEscEscárcegarcega ChicannCChicannáhicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal ChinchorroChinchorro KohunlichKohunlich CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak CCalakmulalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE Maya archaeological site Cuota BBELIZEE L I Z E (toll highway) GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A

1 Standing above the azure sea at the Belize6 ExploringCity Xkeken cenote, a world ruins of Tulum. underground. Turneffe Belmopan Islands 2 Touring the Sian Ka’an Biosphere. 7 Awaiting dusk on the central square in Valladolid 3 Watching flamingos take flight at . Celestún. 8 Experiencing sunrise and sunset on Flores Isla Mujeres 4 Snorkeling or diving the reefs of . Cozumel. 9 Visiting Isla Contoy. 10 Spending a Sunday in Mérida. 11 Wandering the Lost City of Chichén UNITED STATES Itzá. 12 Haggling at the Cancún flea markets. Area of detail 13 Dancing the night away at Azúcar Gulf of (Cancún Hotel Zone). MEXICO Mexico 14 Riding a carriage on the Paseo Mexico City Montejo in Mérida. 15 Discovering IzamalHHONDURASO N, theD UYucatán'sR A S PACIFIC BELIZE golden city. OCEAN GUATEMALA 16 Eating lunch on Playa Soliman— EL SALVADOR the Riviera Maya the way it was. HONDURAS

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3 16 Favorite n 1840, the faded glory of ancient Maya civilization over- Iwhelmed John L. Stephens, the first North American tourist in the Yucatán, when he wandered among the pyramids and complex G u l f o f M e x i c o Isla Contoy RÍA LAGARTOS Bird Sanctuary BIOSPHERE buildings that had been lost for centuries to jungle growth. Today, SAN FELIPE RESERVE NATURE RESERVE Río Lagartos Isla Holbox many of these sites are cleared for visitors. In concert with the easily Moments accessible, inviting beaches of Cancún and the Riviera Maya, they Progreso make the peninsula an ideal, affordable destination for a broad range Tizimín Motul Cancún of travelers—whether your pleasure is history and culture, or surf, Hunucmá Mérida Kantunilkin Isla sand, sun, and nightlife. We have explored the region extensively, Celestún Izamal Mujeres RÍA and these are some of our most cherished memories. CELESTÚN Playa del NATIONAL Carmen WILDLIFE Valladolid REFUGE Chichén Itzá Isla de Ticul Cozumel 1 Standing above the azure sea down the warm, swift channel cur- LOS Y U C A T ÁN Cobá PETENES Uxmal Tulum at the ruins of Tulum. The first time rent past an ancient Mayan customs BIOSPHERE Tekax RESERVE Playa Soliman we stood among the ruins of this house, half-hidden in the reeds and Campeche walled city, high on a cliff overlooking mangroves. See p 46. the Caribbean’s turquoise waters, it Felipe Carrillo Punta Allen 3 Watching flamingos take flight Hopelchén Bahía de la Ascensión took our breath away. Facing east, Puerto at Celestún. Rent a launch to see Edzná Tulum is especially spectacular at SIAN thousands of pink flamingos feeding Bahía del sunrise, which inspired the Mayans Champotón Q U I N T A N A KA'AN Espíritu Santo and nesting in the lagoons at R O O BIOSPHERE to call it Zamá, city of the dawn. If it’s C A M P E C H E RESERVE Celestún on the Gulf coast. After- hot, have a swim in the warm sea C a r i b b e a n wards, choose one of the many CALAKMUL below. See p 20. BIOSPHERE S e a beachside restaurants and lunch on RESERVE Dzibanché Bacalar 2 Touring the Sian Ka’an Bios- pescado frito (whole fried fish) while Becán Xpujil Chetumal phere. The ancient Maya called this you watch the frigate birds float Francisco Bahía Banco Escárcega Chicanná de Chetumal Chinchorro place “Birth of the Sky.” Now it’s overhead. Bring your swimsuit. Kohunlich federally protected, and naturalist Celestún makes a great day trip CALAKMUL Xcalak Calakmul BIOSPHERE guides offer hiking, cycling, and from Mérida. See p 86. RESERVE boat tours into its 526,110 hectares 4 Snorkeling or diving the reefs (1.3 million acres) of salt marshes, B E L I Z E of Cozumel. The myriad colors of G U A T E M A L A beaches, and lagoons. Birds, igua- the fish are stunning, and the nas, jungle cats, crocodiles, mana- shapes of the giant coral just below tees, turtles, and some dolphins your flippers are clearly visible in the make their home here. You can float

Tulum, along the Riviera Maya.

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16 Favorite Moments 4 Campeche. in underground caverns, where you neighbor Samulaare uniquecenotes fragile limestone.Xkeken andits when thewater tablebreaks through lake thatforms from underground cenotes. dwelled, atXkeken andSamula the ancientMaya thoughtthespirits the stepsintounderworld where world underground. 6 5 Cousteau. on filmbyoceanographer Jacques the spectacularreefs madefamous rightoverdrift alonginthecurrent, snorkelers gobyboatoffshore to waters.crystal-clear Divers and 2000. UNESCO World HeritageSitein gem, Campechewas nameda of theConception,builtin1639.A the plazainfront oftheCathedral stone streets, whilerevelers stroll houses, reflect onitsnarrow cobble- from 300-year-old, pastel-colored of Campeche.Twinkly lights,strung mas time,it’s intheoldwalled city air anywhere inthetropics atChrist- A pelicantakes flightattheSianKa’an Biosphere Reserve. Exploring Xkeken cenote,a Celebrating Christmasin See p91. Cenote See p34. If there’s magicinthe is thenamefor a Climb down wonder ofitall. can swimorjustadmire thenatural sunset onIslaMujeres. square inValladolid. day tonightina500-year-old town. and enjoy thetransformation from of theMesondelMarqués hotels de laLuzorinthecentercourtyard the street-side restaurant ofMaria tourists andlocals.Grab atablein signals thatit’s for dinnertime square. Thecacophonyoftheircalls birds fillthetrees around thecentral Valladolid, hundreds ofsquawking descends onthecolonialtown of 8 See p124. 7 Another day inparadise. red sundrop below thehorizon. beachtowatchBar onthenorth the island fun,settledown attheSunset point inMexico. Afteraday of watchtower attheeasternmost boastswhat’story leftofaMayan just offCancún.Therocky promon- Mujeres, the“IslandofWomen,” from theedgeofacliffonIsla with thebirdstowatch thesunrise Experiencing sunriseand Awaiting duskonthecentral See p43. As dusk See p103. Wake up Wake 04_081198 moments.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 5

5 16 Favorite Moments

Doublebar bream fish off the coast of Cozumel.

9 Visiting Isla Contoy. From Isla your breath away. The dominant Mujeres, speed across the waves in architectural feature is the huge a fishing launch—or take the old “Castillo,” a pyramid in the center of wooden-hulled sailboat, Estrella del the expansive, ancient ceremonial Norte—toward Isla Contoy. This bird grounds. Climbing down is a lot sanctuary was established in 1961 to harder than climbing up, where the protect the 100-plus avian species apex offers a view for many miles that visit the island park. On the way, above the jungle canopy. Not to be your boat will stop above a colorful missed. See p 55. reef for a snorkeling break, and the boat crew will cook you a fresh fish The platform of Eagles & Jaguars at lunch after exploring the uninhabited Chichén Itzá. island. See p 41. 0 Spending a Sunday in Mérida. The largest city in the Yucatán brims with cultural happenings. Every day there is something to see or do in the historical center, where modern mixes with ancient. Our favorite time is Sunday, when folkloric dancers balance beer bottles on their heads as they perform in the Plaza Mayor, a brass band accompanies, and artisans ply their wares to tourists and locals strolling the shady square. See p 109. ! Wandering the Lost City of Chichén Itzá. Even the most jaded visitor will find the magnificent remains of the northern Yucatán’s best-preserved ruins breathtaking. Just arrive early so it’s not the heat of the day or the crowds that take 04_081198 moments.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 6

@ Haggling at the Cancún flea markets. What is a vacation without shopping? When pesos start burn- ing a hole in our pockets, we head

Moments to the flea markets in downtown Cancún, where kitschy clutter com- petes with showy silver at super savings. This is where to buy hanging hammocks, shady sombreros, tawdry T-shirts, carved canes, bling- 16 Favorite 16 Favorite bling bracelets, nice necklaces, and cheap castanets. Mercado 28 is the most popular. See p 152. # Dancing the night away at Azúcar. Everybody knows about the loud rock-‘n’-roll venues in Cancún’s hotel zone. But you’ll find us at Azúcar, a nightclub with a live Latin band and some of the best dancing around. Tropical rhythms reverber- ate around its intimate setting, which also boasts a good bar and big dance floor. With its merengue, salsa, slow-moving boleros, and lots of undulating bodies, there’s Izamal, the Golden City. no place sweeter than Azúcar. people. No one knows why, but all See p 148. the buildings in town are painted $ Riding a carriage on the Paseo gold. Peruse the narrow cobble- Montejo. Designed to resemble stones streets in a horse-drawn bug- the Champs-Elysées, the Paseo Mon- gie known as a Victoria, and then tejo lies just north of the historical enjoy a typical Yucatecan lunch at center of Mérida. An evening horse- Kinich Kakmó restaurant. See p 86. drawn carriage ride on the wide ^ Eating lunch on the Riviera boulevard—past the soft lights of Maya, the way it was. You won’t trendy restaurants, museums, and stumble upon many deserted places hotels scattered amid the stately these days, now that tourists and mansions built during the boom mega-hotels have discovered the times of the henequén trade—is a beautiful beaches along the Riviera memorable highlight of this charm- Maya. But you can still capture that ing city. See p 115. Jimmy Buffett feeling at Oscar y % Discovering Izamal, the Lalo’s restaurant on its own horse- Yucatán’s golden city. Long before shaped beach at Playa Soliman. the Spanish Conquistadors built the Have a refreshing lunch at a beach- huge Franciscan Convento de San side table, snooze in a hammock Antoñio de Padua on the top of a under palm trees, snorkel the reef gigantic pyramid, the sleepy town of offshore, or take a dip in the deep Izamal was of great religious impor- cenote. Great food, primitive bath- tance to the pre-Columbian Maya rooms. See p 30. 05_081198 ch01.qxp 1/10/07 6:03 PM Page 7

Strategies for 1 Seeing the Yucatán 05_081198 ch01.qxp 1/10/07 6:03 PM Page 8

8 Strategies for Seeing the Yucatán RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS Isla Contoy 0 Gulf of50 Mexico mi BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE Isla Holbox Bird Sanctuary SANSAN FELIPEFELIPE RíoRí o LagartosLagartos RESERVERESERVE N NATURENATURE RESERVERESERVE 0 50 km 295 ProgresoProgreso TTizimínizimín CancúnCancún Isla MotulMotul 176 KantunilkinKantunilkin Mujeres HunucmáHunucmá MéridaMérida CelestúnCelestún IIzamalzamal Ek Balam 180 RRÍAÍA 281 180 180 CELESTÚNCELESTCELESTÚN D PPlayalaya ddelel NAT’LNNATAT’L 261 180 WILDLIFEWILDLIFE YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN VValladolidalladolid CCarmenarmen REFUGEREFUGE CChichénhichén for Seeing the Yucatán for 307 Isla de LOSLOS TiculTicul IItzátzá CobáCobá Cozumel PETENESPETENES UUxmalxmal TTulumulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 180 TTekaxekax RESERVERESERVE 184 CCampecheampeche 261 295 307 HHopelchénopelchén FFelipeelipe CCarrilloarrillo PPuertouerto 261 180 Caribbean

Strategies Strategies 184 EEdznádzná SIANSIAN Sea QQUINTANAU I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN ChampotónChampotón ROOR O O BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E 307 RESERVERESERVE

261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE DDzibanchézibanché BacalarBacalar 186 BBecánecán XXpujilpujil CChetumalhetumal Banco FranciscoFrancisco BahBahíaBahía Chinchorro EscárcegaEscárcega CChicannáhicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal KKohunlichohunlich CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak CCalakmulalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE Maya archaeological site Cuota BBELIZEE L I Z E (toll highway) GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A

he Yucatán is home to pearl-white beaches and deep green jun- Tgle, as well as pre-Colombian ruins and breakneck modern development. It’s home to three states—Yucatán, Campeche, and Quintana Roo—encompassing 134,400 square kilometers (84,000 sq. m) and has 3,500 years of civic history since the Olmec developed the region’s first large-scale human settlements in 1500 B.C. It’s also the setting of five UNESCO World Heritage sites. The Riviera Maya’s paradisiacal seashore, luxury hotels, fine dining, and exciting nightlife have become the most popular reasons to visit, but the region offers so much more to see and do: Explore ancient Mayan ruins, watch the world go by at a corner cafe, explore cenotes and other unique natural wonders, or just relax on the beach and think about all the things you’re going to do—mañana.

Rule #1: Choose, you south to Tulum is known as the Riv- can’t lose. iera Maya. With its blue water and The Yucatán’s attractions are perfect white sand that doesn’t diverse enough to keep you coming burn your feet when you walk bare- back again and again, but the region foot, it’s graced with some of the still offers two basic vacation pro- best beaches in the world. Inland, files—sand and sun or history and travelers encounter impressive culture. The coast from Cancún Maya ruins and native villages, Previous page: An old form of travel on a beach lost to time. 05_081198 ch01.qxp 1/10/07 6:04 PM Page 9

9 Strategies example, a visit to the ruins of n Tulum in the heat of the day could RÍA LAGARTOS be accompanied by an afternoon of BIOSPHERE SAN FELIPE Rí o Lagartos RESERVE snorkeling at Xel-Ha. Or a boat trip NATURE RESERVE to see the flamingos at Rio Lagartos

Progreso could include a stop at the Ek Balam for Seeing the Yucatán Tizimín Cancún Motul Kantunilkin Hunucmá Mérida ruins, on the way, just north of Val- Celestún Izamal ladolid. Better yet, plan your day RÍA CELESTÚN Playa del around lunch. Checking out the NAT’L WILDLIFE Y U C A T ÁN Valladolid Carmen Aktun Chen caverns? Arrive early REFUGE Chichén enough to go to Oscar y Lalo’s LOS Ticul Itzá Cobá PETENES Uxmal Tulum restaurant at nearby Playa Soliman. BIOSPHERE Tekax RESERVE In Mexico, lunch is often a big meal, Campeche and dinner can be a lighter late- Hopelchén Felipe Carrillo Puerto The Mayan Ball Court and Pyramid at evening affair. Uxmal. Edzná SIAN Rule # 4: Remember you Q U I N T A N A KA'AN Champotón R O O BIOSPHERE charming colonial towns, lots of nat- probably came here to C A M P E C H E RESERVE ural beauty—and last but not least, relax—so keep your options CALAKMUL lower prices. Choose one region if open. BIOSPHERE your time is limited or combine Travelers who enjoy their south-of- RESERVE Dzibanché Bacalar Becán Xpujil Chetumal them for the broadest experience. the-border vacations most are those Francisco Bahía who understand and accept that Escárcega Chicanná de Chetumal Kohunlich Rule #2: Decide whether to things don’t always work on sched- CALAKMUL Xcalak hotel-hop or just flop. ule or according to plan. Use this Calakmul BIOSPHERE RESERVE Decide whether to book accommo- book as a reference in planning, but B E L I Z E dations in one place and take day don’t try to do everything. Roll with G U A T E M A L A trips, or change hotels frequently the punches and you won’t be dis- and venture farther afield. For appointed when plan A bites the shorter stays, it’s better to hole up dust; just move on to plan B (or, if in Cancún, the Riviera Maya, or necessary, C). Cultural differences in Mérida and explore from there. Mexico offer visitors the chance to Lodging in one place gives you the learn and appreciate an alternative greatest stability but limits the dis- view of what’s important in life. Slow tances you can traverse. Wandering down and enjoy more. allows you to cover more ground and follow your whims, but you Rule #5: Expect the may end up feeling that you need unexpected. another vacation to recover from all The Yucatán is a safe destination the packing and traveling around. to travel around as long as you Decide which approach suits you observe the same precautions you best or combine them for the best would in any major North American of both. city. Driving is a good way to see the countryside; the roads are flat and Rule #3: Pick the key activity well marked. But keep your speed of the day and then plan down. A superhighway toll road other activities in the sur- known as the Cuota runs between rounding area. Cancún, Chichén Itzá, and Mérida. Regardless of whether you’re a Expect to pay about $25 in tolls for sightseeing fool or a beach bum, the entire distance. Valladolid and plan your fun around the key activity Chichén are 2 hours from Cancún on you’ve chosen for the day. For the Cuota; Mérida is about 4 hours 05_081198 ch01.qxp 1/10/07 6:04 PM Page 10

10 or a little more. A parallel route is the Mérida–Libre, a two-lane local road through small towns and villages. Try it if you have the time, but watch the topes—speed bumps that announce you’re approaching a town. You might also consider traveling to major destinations by bus; first class is fast, inexpensive, and comfortable. for Seeing the Yucatán for Rule #6: Don’t drink the water. That’s a bit of an old folk axiom about Mexico, but, the water is safe in Cancún and all the major hotels Strategies Strategies up and down the Riviera Maya, and in large cities such as Mérida as well. Ice everywhere is made from purified water, so you don’t need to ask. We do recommend that you use bottled water for drinking, but The Estrella del Norte sails from Isla don’t freak out if you brushed your Mujeres to Isla Contoy. teeth using tap water. Wash your hands frequently, and, if you get Rule #7: You can get there sick, have your hotel contact a local from here. doctor. Most speak English, and Street addresses in Latin America many have trained in the U.S. are often determined by the distance from someplace else. The A palapa on the beach at Sian Ka’an. Cancún Hotel Zone, for instance, has just one road (Kukulcán), and the street numbers are determined by the number of kilometers from downtown. In more rural areas, you don’t need exact addresses; often there’s only one road with lots of signs.

Rule #8: Don’t worry about hurricane damage. In October 2005, Hurricane Wilma, the strongest storm ever recorded, stalled over the Yucatán peninsula and pounded the Riviera Maya with winds in excess of 161km per hour (100 mph) for more than 36 hours. Despite extensive damage, all the area’s hotels, restaurants, and attractions were up and running by early 2006. Ironically, many of the beaches are now better than before.• 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 11

The Best Full-Day 2 Tours 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 12

12 The Best of the Yucatán in Three Days GulfG u l f ofo f MexicoM e x i c o IslaIsla ContoyContoy 0 20 mi RRíoío LLagartosagartos IslaIsla HolboxHolbox BirdBird SSanctuaryanctuary N ElEl CuyoCuyo 0 20 km RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE Full-Day Tours Full-Day ChiquiláChiquilChiquilá IslaIsla 295 MujeresMujeres 1 Cancún 176 TizimTTizimínizimín KantunilkinKantunilkin 180 The Best e ibr a L ridarid Libre YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN 295 MMéridaé Libre ll) EkEk BalamBalam (To ota CuotaCu (Toll) PuertoPuerto 180 MorelosMorelos D NuevoNuevo 180 X-CanX-Can PlayaPlaya deldel 307 180 2 CarmenCarmen ValladolidValladolid ChemaxChemax XcaretXcaret ChichénChichChichén ItzáIItztzá 3 295 SanSan MiguelMiguel CobáCCobobá Gulf of Mexico AkumalAkumal IslaIsla dede Mérida Cancún CozumelCozumel YUCATÁNYUCATÁN QQUINTANAU I N T A N A Xel-HaXel-Ha Area of RROOO O TulumTulum LagoonLagoon detail NationalNational TulumTulum ParkPark CaribbeanC a r i b b e a n SeaS e a Campeche QUINTANA ROO CAMPECHE Caribbean 307 Chetumal 295Sea 1 Cancún 184 0 100 mi PuntaPunta 2 Chichén Itzá GUATEMALA BELIZE VigíaVVigigía AllenAllen BahBBahíaahía dede lala 0 100 km ChicoChico 3 Xcaret AscensiAAscensiónscensión

3-day trip to the Yucatán is best spent primarily along the ARiviera Maya—the cool, pearl-white Caribbean shoreline that runs from Cancún south to Tulum. If you’re like most travelers, you’ll devote those 72 precious hours to doing nothing on the beach. We thoroughly endorse that approach, but we’ve designed this itinerary to demonstrate the variety of short excursions you can work into even a quick getaway to the region. If you want a break from the beach but more rest and relaxation than this itinerary affords, see the Yucatan in One Week tour, on p 16, and follow the recommendations for days 1, 2, and 3. START: Cancún Hotel Zone. The Hotel Zone begins just 10km (6.5 miles) from the airport on Boulevard Kukulcán. Total trip length: 520km (322 miles).

1 Cancún. Cancún is almost like A Note on Hotels & two cities in one—a downtown shop- Restaurants ping and residential area, and a For additional information on sights, tourist-specific Hotel Zone that runs shops, and recommended hotels and along a 27km (16.75-mile) island, restaurants in Cancún, see chapter 7. shaped like the number 7—thus its

Previous page: A performer at Xcaret ecopark. 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 13

13 Yucatán in name, meaning golden snake in gifts and handicrafts—silver jewelry, Mayan. The beaches of Cancún are T-shirts, sombreros, blankets, and spectacular, but those on the long the like. Comparison shopping and side of the 7 (the Caribbean side) negotiating are expected. Different G u l f o f M e x i c o Isla Contoy sometimes have strong surf. Taxis or vendors sometimes sell similar items

Río Lagartos Bird Sanctuary Three Days Isla Holbox inexpensive buses marked Ruta 1 and in this warren of indoor and outdoor El Cuyo RÍA LAGARTOS Ruta 2 run the length of Kukulcán stalls, so it pays to haggle for the BIOSPHERE RESERVE Chiquilá Isla Boulevard, the zone’s only road, best deal. Or wander across the Mujeres where addresses are simply kilometer street to La Fiesta, a two-story, numbers. The lower the number, the air-conditioned store brimming with Tizimín closer the address is to downtown. fixed-price, kitschy souvenirs. Kantunilkin e Check into the Westin Resort & Get into the groove by eating ibr a L rid Spa Cancún (see p 145 for details), lunch where the locals go, the Rio Y U C A T ÁN Mé ll) Ek Balam (To a luxurious resort hotel on a magnifi- Nizuc Restaurant. This joint is all ota Cu Puerto cent piece of beach near the south- about cheap fish and beer on a plas- Morelos Nuevo ern end of the Hotel Zone, on tic table under a palapa. It’s a bit X-Can Playa del Carmen Kukulcán, Km 20. Famous for its com- hard to find, up a sandy path along Valladolid Chemax Xcaret fortable beds and linens, the Westin the estuary at the Punta Nizuc Chichén Itzá San Miguel is one of Cancún’s top hotels. Beach bridge. But ask the bus driver to let Cobá and pool time there will help you you off nearby; taxi drivers know Akumal Isla de Cozumel acclimate to Mexico, and the hotel where it is. They also know it’s worth Q U I N T A N A Xel-Ha can be your home base for the next the trip. The best part: Gringos will R O O Tulum Lagoon National few days of touring. be in short supply. Tulum Park C a r i b b e a n S e a Next stop is the Coral Negro Take a siesta or another swim market, Km 9.5, where you’ll before venturing to the Mexican encounter a traditional Mexican Folk Art Museum at Km 4, a great Punta mercado plying traditional Yucatecan place to see folk art and buy authen- Vigía Allen tic handicrafts from all over Mexico. Chico Bahía de la Ascensión One of the region’s many outdoor produce Rising above it is a revolving sight- vendors. seeing tower with a panoramic view of the beach and lagoon. Before you depart for the evening, make advance reservations for your next 2 days of adventure. Then dine at Casa Rolandi, an inviting Italian bistro in Plaza Caracol at Km 8.5 (see p 107 for details). The dining room has a garden-like setting behind stained-glass windows. One corner is especially intimate, with a low ceiling and diffused light. A mixed seafood platter is the signature dish, but live lobsters are also popular. If you have any energy left after dinner, don your dancing shoes and party away the evening at Azúcar at Km 9 (see p 148 for details), an exciting live- music Latin dance club and bar at Punta Cancún. Many of the groups come from Cuba, and the music is top-notch. @ 1 day. 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 14

14 Take Highway 180 for 190km (118 Other worthy stops on a 1-day miles) west of Cancún. tour are the Cenote of Sacrifice, a large, deep open well with sides 2 Chichén Itzá. You won’t be steep enough to throw victims over; able to avoid the crowds or fully Temple of the Skulls (guess why appreciate this expansive Mayan it’s called that?); Temple of the city in just 1 day, but Chichén Itzá is Warriors; and the Group of a

Full-Day Tours Full-Day still a must-see stop on any Yucatán Thousand Columns. vacation, however brief. At the very It can get very hot in the open least, a day tour will stimulate inter- areas. Before departing, buy a hat, est for your next trip in this lost civi- drink lots of water, and use copious lization’s magnificent ruins, which The Best amounts of sunscreen. If you still the Maya abandoned in 1220 after a need to cool down, make a pit stop war with a rival city. Make reserva- in the excellent visitor’s center tions the day before for the earliest snack bar and gift shop. possible tour. It costs about $85, For detailed information on including lunch, for a 3-hour bus Chichén Itzá, see the Pre-Columbian ride through the northern Yucatán’s Yucatán tour in chapter 4. flat topography and scrub jungle. Back in Cancún, complete your The guided tour of Chichén Itzá 1 Yucatán experience with a fine meal runs about 1 ⁄2 hours, highlighting in an authentic Mexican setting the most impressive and important at Hacienda El Mortero (Km 9, structures from the Classic and y 998/883-1133). @ 1 day. Post-Classic periods. The Temple of Kukulcán domi- Take Highway 307 for 72km (44.5 nates the sprawling, open grounds miles) south of Cancún. around it—which inspired the 3 Xcaret =. One of the Riviera Spanish Conquistadors to call it El Maya’s most popular attractions Castillo (the castle). Climb to the is Xcaret (pronounced ISH-car-ret; 82-foot (25m) summit of the pyramid y 998/883-0470, save 10% at www. for a stunning panoramic view. Just xcaret.com), an eco-themed recre- be careful coming back down the ational park about an hour south of narrow stairs; use the balance rope if Cancún. Developed on the site of the necessary. pre-Columbian trading port of “Polé,” it offers tourists a myriad of tropical Chac Mool in the Templo de los Guer- vacation diversions—most centered reros at Chichén Itzá. on the fabulous turquoise waters of the Caribbean, its lagoons, and the natural beauty of the jungle. The entrance hosts the obligatory gift shop and snack bars. From there, a series of walking paths meander around past its attractions, including bathing coves, the snorkeling lagoon, and the remnants of small Mayan temples. It often gets crowded, which diminishes the natural experience. It’s best to visit on weekends, when fewer cruise ships and tourists are around. The best-known Xcaret rides are Underground River and Mayan 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 15

15 Yucatán in afternoon Mexican Charreria horse show with cowboys and riders from the state of Jalisco. There’s also a replica of a Mexican cemetery, where the Day of the Dead is celebrated every day, and where Totonac Indians Three Days from Veracruz perform the death- defying, pre-Columbian aerial ceremony Voladores de Papantla high above the ground. No matter how tired you are, don’t leave without seeing Xcaret Maya Indian dancer at Xcaret theme park. Spectacular Night. In a large covered theater, 300 costumed artists River—life-jacket floats down either delight crowds with a performance of two underground rivers opened that draws from the best of Mexican and widened to allow snorkeling. The history, culture, music, and regional Underground River trip is the most dance tradition. The musical num- crowded, so consider the Mayan bers are wonderful, but they can be River trip if lines are running long. loud. From the exciting ancient ball- Other water-based attractions include games to wildly funny “Dance of the SNUBA diving, a way to “walk” on the Old Men Jarácuaro,” the spectacular bottom attached to a breathing hose; is just that—spectacular. swim with dolphins, where for an Funky buses provide transporta- extra fee you can pet, play, and get tion from Cancún from the Xcaret an exciting ride with these amazing terminal on Kukulcán at Km 9; reser- sea creatures; and some gorgeous vations are recommended but not beaches on the ocean and lagoon. required. The cost for a day, includ- A personal favorite is the round rock ing transportation, is about $95 per pool, with ocean waves that make it a adult; with an optional $25 Plus bit like swimming in a natural Jacuzzi. Package for a buffet lunch, and a Kids love this destination, but $35 dinner package that provides a adults will also find plenty to see and meal with reserved seats for the do. Besides its minor archaeological evening show. For more details on sites, there’s a spa service, butterfly Xcaret, see Yucatán for Families in garden, coral reef aquarium, and an chapter 4. @ 1 day.

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16 The Best of the Yucatán in One Week GulfG u l f ofo f MexicoM e x i c o IslaIsla ContoyContoy 0 20 mi RRíoío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla HolboxHolbox BirdBird SSanctuaryanctuary N ElEl CuyoCuyo 0 20 km RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS

Full-Day Tours Full-Day BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE ChiquiláChiquilChiquilá IslaIsla 295 MujeresMujeres 1 2 Cancún 176 TizimTTizimínizimín KantunilkinKantunilkin 180 The Best e ibr a L ridarid Libre YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN 295 MMéridaé Libre ll) EkEk BalamBalam (To ota PuertoPuerto CuotaCu (Toll)MorelosMorelos 180 D NuevoNuevo 180 X-CanX-Can PlayaPlaya deldel 307 180 CarmenCarmen 3 ChemaxChemax ValladolidValladolid XcaretXcaret 4 ChichénChichChichén ItzáIItztzá Xel-HaXel-Ha 5 295 LagoonLagoon SanSan MiguelMiguel NationalNational CobáCCobobá Gulf of Mexico ParkPark AkumalAkumal IslaIsla dede Mérida Cancún CozumelCozumel YUCATÁNYUCATÁN QQUINTANAU I N T A N A 7 Area of RROOO O detail TulumTulum 6 TulumTulum CaribbeanC a r i b b e a n SeaS e a Campeche QUINTANA ROO CAMPECHE Caribbean 1 Cancún 5 Xcaret Chetumal 295Sea 2 Isla Mujeres 6 Tulum 0 100 mi PuntaPunta 184 307 3 Chichén Itzá 7 Aktun Chen/ GUATEMALA BELIZE AllenAllen BahBBahíaahía dede lala Playa Soliman 0 100 km 4 Playa del Carmen AscensiAAscensiónscensión

f you have a full week in the Yucatán, we suggest unwinding in ICancún for the first few days. Then, take a side trip to the Maya ruins at Chichén Itzá and spend a few days along the Riviera Maya. After 7 days, you’ll boast a tan and a spectrum of fond memories. We’ve arranged this itinerary so you won’t need a car for the first 4 days; you can rent one in Playa for the beginning of your fifth day. START: Cancún Hotel Zone. The Hotel Zone begins just 10km (6.5 miles) from the airport on Boulevard Kukulcán. Total trip length: 675km (418 miles).

1 Cancún. Take a taxi or shuttle A Note on Hotels & from the airport to the hotel of your Restaurants choice in Cancún’s Hotel Zone, a For additional information on sights, 27km-long (16.75-mile) beach in the shops, and recommended hotels shape of a figure 7. Cancún boasts and restaurants in Cancún, see chap- some the most beautiful beaches ter 7; on Isla Mujeres see p 103 and in the world, facing the inviting on Playa del Carmen see p 120. Caribbean Sea. Unpack your bags and jump in the warm blue waters— you’re on vacation in Mexico now. 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 17

17 Yucatán in The north end of this street is wall-to- Travel Tip wall bars, nightclubs, and restau- Boulevard Kukulcán is the 27km rants. Go there to enjoy a late lunch (16.74-mile) road that runs the length at La Parilla, on Av. Yaxchilan near G u l f o f M e x i c o Isla Contoy of Cancún’s Caribbean shoreline. Rosas (see p 150 for details), a land- Bird Sanctuary One Week Río Lagartos Isla Holbox Addresses on Kukulcán are given by mark grill serving authentic Mexican El Cuyo RÍA LAGARTOS kilometer number; the lower the food. Mariachi musicians perform in BIOSPHERE RESERVE the late afternoons and, in the Chiquilá Isla number, the closer the address is to Mujeres downtown. evenings, the place is packed. If you didn’t get side-tracked Tizimín shopping on Av. Tulum, walk about Kantunilkin Unwind, relax, and when you’re 3 blocks up Av. Sunyaxchen to the e ibr hungry, hail a cab or one of the a L post office. Behind it is our favorite rid Y U C A T ÁN Mé ll) inexpensive public buses, marked Ek Balam (To flea market, Mercado 28 (vain-tee ota Puerto Cu Morelos number #1 or #2 (75¢), which will oh-choe), on Avenidas Tankah and Nuevo take you to the more typically Mexi- Sunyaxchen. This tourist-specific X-Can Playa del Carmen can city center. Cancún has two market sells every type of Mexican Chemax Valladolid Xcaret faces. The Hotel Zone is a bit like handicraft and souvenir imaginable; Chichén Itzá Xel-Ha Miami in Mexico. The downtown is a Lagoon San Miguel the possibilities are a hoot. Negoti- National living city with its own tourist areas. Cobá ate for the best deal. See p 153 for Park Akumal Isla de Cozumel Get off the #1 bus when it turns on to details. Q U I N T A N A Tulum Avenue, the major thorough- R O O Return to the hotel for a siesta Tulum fare; or get off the #2 bus at the or a languid swim until evening. If Tulum C a r i b b e a n S e a Chedraui department store on the you’re up for dressing smart, dine corner of Tulum. Ask the driver if on delicious Italian food at La Dolce you’re unsure. Each side of the street Vita, on the lagoon at Km 14.6 in has eateries, stores, and lots of the Hotel Zone. For a more casual Punta Allen shops, including flea market merca- evening, try La Dolce’s original Bahía de la dos for souvenir shopping. Ascensión location downtown, on Av. Cobá, Make your way to the west side near the corner of Av. Nader. The of Tulum Avenue and walk down one menu is pared down, but the food of its side streets through Palapa is equally delicious. @ 1 day. Park, a central location for Cancún’s many afternoon and nighttime festi- Directions: Take either the ferry vals. It’s a safe place to return to from the Hotel Zone (Km 9 or Km after nightfall if you find something 4, $15) or the “people ferry” ($4) of interest. The road parallel to Tulum from either dock at Puerto Juárez, Avenue is the busy Av. Yaxchilán.

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a few kilometers north of downtown Cancún. 2 Isla Mujeres. This skinny “Island of Women” is just a few kilometers off Cancún’s coastline, but a world apart in style. Less developed

Full-Day Tours Full-Day and less commercial than Cancún, Isla Mujeres offers a taste of the Mexican beach-village experience, which is becoming increasingly rare. Originally, the Maya came here to The Best worship the goddess of fertility; a small ruin remains at the island’s easternmost point, high on a cliff overlooking the sea. It’s the first point of land in Mexico touched by the morning sun. In modern times, Playa del Carmen. Isla functioned as a fishing village, and in the 1960s and ’70s, it was a Before the day is up, don’t favorite stop for sailboats and yachts. forget to make tour or rental car Given its proximity to Cancún, it’s reservations for tomorrow. The last now a favorite day trip from the ferry back to Cancún’s Hotel Zone mainland for shopping, swimming, is at 9pm; 12am to Puerto Juárez. snorkeling, or exploring. @ 1 day. Shop and sightsee on its sandy, Take Highway 180 or the Cuota cobbled downtown streets in the toll road for 190km (117 miles) main village. It’s only a few blocks west of Cancún. wide by a few blocks long, but some wonderful little shops, hotels, and 3 Chichén Itzá. Chichén Itzá is restaurants are squeezed into its an unforgettable ruined Mayan holy narrow streets. At some point, rent a city that’s sure to impress even the golf cart or motorbike to get around most jaded visitor. It’s an all-day beyond the north end. Then head to excursion, and you can arrange a Playa Lancheros, on Carretera Gar- day tour in advance from Cancún rafón, for a leisurely afternoon of sun- through any hotel travel agent. If bathing, snorkeling, swimming, and a you’re adventuresome, rent a car Tikin-Chik lunch: fish filets grilled over the night before and drive yourself a charcoal fire and flavored with tradi- to the ruins in the early morning. tional achiote spice (not hot). Driving conditions are quite good in Back in town, watch the sun set the Yucatán; the terrain is flat, and from the Sunset Bar at the Na Balam major roads are well marked. Hotel, and then dine at the hotel Check into Hacienda Chichén restaurant Zazil Ha, notable for its Resort hotel (KM 120 Carretera Caribbean and international cuisine, Puerto Juárez Mérida; y 800/624- on Av. Zazil Ha at the northern end of 8451 in the U.S. or 999/924-2150; town. See p 107 for details. www.haciendachichen.com; doubles If you’re feeling frisky, party $120–$160). It’s just a short walk out- island-style at Las Palapas Chimbos side the ruin’s back entrance. This is bar and restaurant (no phone), down the smallest and most private of the the beach from the more sedate Na three hotels near the ruins. In 1923, Balam. this former working hacienda with 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 19

19 Yucatán in lovely guest cottages served as that night, dine at a Hotel Zone the living quarters for the Carnegie landmark, Lorenzillos, Km 10.5 (see Institute’s Chichén excavation team. p 138 for details), serving fresh lob- Before that, American consul Edward sters on the lagoon. @ 1 day. Thompson owned the property. He

From Cancún, take Highway 307 One Week put Chichén Itzá on the archaeologi- for 68 km (42 miles) south of Can- cal map after sending local artifacts cún. Express buses run frequently to the U.S. in the early 1900s. from Cancún’s terminal on Av. Spend a day at the ruins. Hire a Tulum to Playa del Carmen. guide or tag along with a docent-led group for explanations of the many 4 Playa del Carmen. Once a interesting facets of each ruin. You’ll sleepy port town at the other end of learn fascinating details, such as the the ferry to Cozumel, Playa is now fact that the long stone steps of the huge; at press time, it was the fastest pyramid cast the shadow of a slith- growing city in the Americas. It’s still ering serpent at the time of the the “in” place to vacation on the Riv- spring and fall equinox. iera Maya, but its cachet is fading as An overnight stay makes it easier more of the hoi polloi find out about to attend the fascinating nighttime it. Check into the hotel of your choice light show at the ruins. See p 56 for when you arrive and make reserva- more details. tions for Xcaret tomorrow. It can get very hot on the grounds From the ferry dock north, of Chichén Itzá. If you’re in the mood crowds of tourists from all over the for a hot lunch and a cool swim, drive world throng the long, pedestrian- back on the highway to the Dolores only 5th Avenue, a street lined with Alba Hotel (see p 57 for details). an enticing mélange of chic stores, They have a very good palapa hip bars, cool cafes, boutique hotels, restaurant with a pool just a few feet and classy restaurants. This seaside away. Better yet, ask to swim in their city’s Cannes-meets-Coney Island second pool, built like a cenote with atmosphere is especially appealing a swim-through cave. to the many Europeans who visit. The next morning, take the Cuota Needless to say, shopping, look- back toward Cancún and follow the ing, drinking, and eating are profes- signs for Playa del Carmen, south on sional sports on the people-friendly Highway 307. If you return to Cancún main drag. But Playa isn’t all about

Exterior of a home in Playa del Carmen. 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 20

commercialism; its alabaster- white beach, strewn with sun worshippers, is fabulous. And the turquoise Caribbean makes for great swimming and snorkeling on the reef just offshore. Lunch anywhere on 5th Avenue Full-Day Tours Full-Day is fun. If you like people, you’ll love Playa del Carmen. And while it may not be Tuscany, many Italians who come to Playa go to Ciao Gelato, on

The Best 5th (between calles 2 and 4), to cool off with some low-fat ice cream. See p 120 for recommended dinner and nightlife choices. @ 1 day. Take Route 307 4km (2.5 miles) south of Playa del Carmen. Chac Mool.

5 Xcaret =. Spend the entire of tourists who visit daily. One major day and early evening at Xcaret highlight here is the snorkel trip down (pronounced ISH-car-ret; y 998/883- an underground river. Other attrac- 0470, www.xcaret.com), an eco- tions include an inviting snorkel themed recreational water park that’s lagoon, beatific beaches, dolphin suitable for the entire family. It’s just swims, an aviary, an orchid garden, a a few kilometers south of Playa del Mexican graveyard, horse shows, and Carmen. four big restaurants. An all-inclusive Once a thriving port for pre- option includes a buffet meal. But Columbian trade in the Mayan world, Xcaret’s pièce de résistance is their Xcaret now thrives on the thousands evening spectacular—which is just that. Through music and dance, more Playa Soliman. than 300 performers tell Mexico’s colorful history from pre-Columbian times to the present day. Admission is included in every price range, and it’s well worth the effort to attend. See p 51 for details. Return to Playa for the night. @ 1 day. Take Route 307 63km (39 miles) south of Playa del Carmen. 6 Tulum. Either take the bus from 5th Avenue’s station or rent a car in Playa and drive south to the Mayan ruins of Tulum, set on a breathtaking bluff above the azure Caribbean. If you can, arrive before the crowds and heat of the day or, for the same reasons, visit late in the afternoon. Tulum is not the most significant archaeological site in the Yucatán, but it’s nonetheless intriguing. Enter 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 21

21 Yucatán in the small, walled site and walk past the various ruined temples to its largest pyramid, El Castillo. The view of the sea below is breathtaking. To close your eyes and feel the warm sun and sea breeze wash over you is One Week magical. You can no longer climb to the top pyramid, but there’s plenty to “ooh” and “aah” about inside the post-Classic holy site or right below it on the sandy beach, accessed by big wooden steps. For detailed cov- erage of the Tulum ruins, see p 61, Pre-Colombian Yucatán. A window onto the Caribbean at the Maya South of the ruins, a series of ruins of Tulum. hotelitos—small hotels that run the gamut from sand-floor palapas to 7 Aktun Chen/Playa Soliman. four-star suites—line the shore down On your last morning, sneak in your the Boca Paila Road. If you can, check next-to-last ocean swim before into the charming little La Conchita breakfast and then drive west from (Boca Pailia Rd., y 984/871-2092, Tulum toward the Cobá ruins. Take a www.differentworld.com, doubles quick look at the Gran Cenote, an $85) and take a dip away from the underground river in an open cavern. crowds on Tulum; the ruins are visible Swimming is allowed, but don’t wear from the beach. sunscreen. Admission is about $5. Seaside dinner at Qué Fresco Return to the highway north; drive (Boca Paila Rd. at Zamas Hotel) is a 47km (29 miles) toward Cancún for real treat. Their signature dish is the the Aktun Chen Caves, a stunning catch of the day. The location on the series of well-lit caverns full of spec- beach is idyllic, and the bar has a tacular stalactites and stalagmites. small stage for live music or dance. Discovered by chicle workers who Lights go out at 11pm; after that it’s took shelter in them from a hurricane, candles and starlight. See p 75 for the caves culminate at an incredible details. @ 1 day. green cenote. It’s so crystal clear it’s Take Route 307 north, toward difficult to tell where the water level Cancún, 47km (29 miles) to begins. They’re located up a sandy, Aktun Chen. 3km (2-mile) road on the left. See p 47 for details. Young girls in traditional dress. Lunch on fresh fish or Yucate- can/Mexican food on a nearby private beach at Oscar y Lalo’s Playa Soliman (see p 30 for details). At Lalo’s you can swim on the half- moon beach, sea kayak on the bay, or snorkel the reef. The beachfront hut is clean, and the food is excellent (though the bathrooms are a bit rough). Finally, hang out in their shaded hammocks; maybe enjoy a siesta until it’s time to return to Cancún and home. @ 1 day. 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:06 PM Page 22

22 The Best of the Yucatán in Two Weeks Gulf of Mexico RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS Isla Contoy 0 50 mi BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE Isla Holbox Bird Sanctuary SANSAN FELIPEFELIPE RíoRí o LagartosLagartos RESERVERESERVE N NATURENATURE RESERVERESERVE 0 50 km 295 1 Full-Day Tours Full-Day ProgresoProgreso TTizimínizimín CCancúnancún Isla MotulMotul 176 KantunilkinKantunilkin Mujeres HunucmáHunucmá MéridaMérida CelestúnCelestún IIzamalzamal 180 PPuertouerto 295 RRÍAÍA 281 4 180 180 MorelosMorelos CELESTÚNCELESTCELESTÚN 5 D PPlayalaya ddelel 13 NAT’LNNATAT’L CarmenCarmen 11 The Best 261 180 WILDLIFEWILDLIFE YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN VValladolidalladolid REFUGEREFUGE CChichénhichén 3 2 307 Isla de LOSLOS TiculTicul IItzátzá CobáCobá Cozumel PETENESPETENES UUxmalxmal TTulumulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 180 6 TTekaxekax 12 RESERVERESERVE 184 10 CCampecheampeche 261 295 307 HHopelchénopelchén FFelipeelipe CCarrilloarrillo PPuertouerto 1 Cancún 7 261 180 2 Valladolid EEdznádzná 184 SIANSIAN 3 Chichén Itzá ChampotónChampotón QQUINTANAU I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN ROOR O O BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 4 Mérida CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E 307 RESERVERESERVE 5 Celestún 261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL 6 Uxmal BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 8 BacalarBacalar 7 Campeche RESERVERESERVE DDzibanchézibanché 9 186 BBecánecán XXpujilpujil CChetumalhetumal 8 Xpujil FranciscoFrancisco BahBahíaBahía Banco9 Lake Bacalar EscárcegaEscárcega CChicannáhicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal Chinchorro KKohunlichohunlich 10 Tulum CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak CCalakmulalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 11 Playa del Carmen RESERVERESERVE 12 Cozumel BBELIZEE L I Z E 13 Puerto Morelos GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A

he Yucatán’s good roads and fairly contained shape—a broad, Trelatively symmetrical limestone plateau—allow for a complete circuit of the peninsula within a 2-week time frame. We recommend moving counterclockwise, so you’ll save the best beach time for the end of your trip. You can take this tour by first-class bus (with a few side trips) or rent a car for maximum flexibility. START: Cancún Hotel Zone, 10km (6.5 miles) from the airport on Boulevard Kukulcán. Total trip length: about 1,200km (744 miles).

1 Cancún. The gateway to the A Note on Hotels & Yucatán is Cancún’s international Restaurants airport, not far from the fabulous For additional information on sights, beaches and resorts of the Hotel shops, and recommended hotels and Zone. Spend your first day here; restaurants in Cancún, see chapter 7; unwind with a swim before lunch on Valladolid, see p 124; on Mérida, downtown at Tycoz baguettes on see p 108; on Campeche, see p 90; Av. Tulum across from the bus sta- on Playa del Carmen, see p 120; and tion. Comparison shop at Mercado on Cozumel, see p 96. 28. Dine at La Habichuela. Rent a 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 23

23 Yucatán in car or buy your bus ticket to Val- ladolid for tomorrow. @ 1 day. Take the Cuota for 152km (94.25 miles) west of Cancún or follow RÍA LAGARTOS signs from Cancún city for the

BIOSPHERE Two Weeks SAN FELIPE Rí o Lagartos RESERVE Mérida Libre. NATURE RESERVE

Progreso 2 Valladolid. This small colonial- Tizimín Cancún Motul Kantunilkin era city played a major role in the Hunucmá Mérida 1800s rebellion known as the Caste Celestún Izamal Puerto RÍA Morelos War. Before the Conquest, it was a CELESTÚN Playa del NAT’L Carmen sacred Maya city. It’s compact and WILDLIFE Y U C A T ÁN Valladolid REFUGE Chichén walkable, and its highlights include LOS Ticul Itzá Cobá La Parroquía San Servacio PETENES Uxmal Tulum BIOSPHERE Tekax RESERVE Church, Main Plaza, Municipal Palace, San Roque Museum, Campeche Ex-Convento, and cenotes Zaci, Hopelchén Felipe Carrillo Puerto Xkeken, and Samula. Lunch and Street vendors in Valladolid. Edzná SIAN people-watch at Maria de la Luz Champotón Q U I N T A N A KA'AN on the square. Dine and spend the Pre-Columbian Yucatán on p 55. R O O BIOSPHERE @ C A M P E C H E night at El Mesón del Marquéz. 1 day. RESERVE CALAKMUL For a hot cup of distinctive Chia- Take the Cuota 2 hours west of BIOSPHERE Bacalar pas coffee or a cold ice cream, grab Chichén Itzá. RESERVE Dzibanché an upstairs window table at Café Becán Xpujil Chetumal 4 Mérida. The capital of Yucatán Francisco Bahía Kabah on the corner, opposite the Escárcega Chicanná de Chetumal state, Mérida is the region’s center of Kohunlich Municipal Palace. @ 1 day. CALAKMUL Xcalak culture and history and well worth a Calakmul BIOSPHERE Take Route 180 an hour west of few nights’ stay. It also makes a good RESERVE Valladolid, near the town of Pisté. base for excursions into the country- B E L I Z E G U A T E M A L A 3 Chichén Itzá. These magnifi- side or to the beach. cent ruins are one of the wonders For your first time, get an intro- of the world. Hacienda Chichén duction to the city on one of two Itzá is a good hotel right outside bus/trolley tours (see p 114). Stroll the back entrance of the ruins. Re- the main plaza surrounded by 500- enter for the evening light show year-old buildings, built from the spectacular. For more details, see stone of Mayan pyramids torn down by the Spanish Conquistadors.

A carriage in Izamal. 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 24

24 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best

Folkloric dancers in Mérida.

Mérida cleverly balances the old Izamal, the Golden City with the new and has something for everyone’s taste. Each evening, free If you are driving to Mérida from cultural events take place, often in Chichén Itzá, consider a detour the numerous neighborhood pocket through Izamal. For details on this parks that grace the historic district. doubly sacred town, see p 86 of Sunday is a big day for festivities Western Yucatán, in chapter 5. that last all day. Some of the many highlights clustered near the Plaza Mayor include Directions: Take Route 281 92km San Ildefonso Cathedral, Casa de (57 miles) west of Mérida through Montejo, Municipal Palace, Gov- Hunucmá. ernor’s Palace, City Museum, and 5 Celestún. From Mérida, the impressive Italianate gem, the Celestún is a fun day trip where Teatro Peón Contreras. Don’t miss travelers can combine a day on the a calasa (carriage) ride along the beach with a boat trip to see flocks Paseo Montejo, with its Bella Epoca of pink flamingos in the ecological mansions, or catch a lift around the biosphere. This Gulf-side, little fishing Main Plaza. village is very laid-back, if not rustic. When Mérida gets hot and It’s a good place to collect shells. humid, the Dulcería y Sorbetería Book a day tour or drive. Return to Colón ice-cream shop underneath Mérida for your last night. See p 86 the arches on Calle 61, across from for details. @ 1 day. the Main Plaza, makes a cool retreat Take Route 261 80km (50 miles) from the heat. See p 111. south of Mérida through Uman, a Mérida is an ideal place to buy 90-minute drive. Mayan handicrafts, Yucatecan hammocks, huipiles, traditional 6 Uxmal. As you head south, embroidered dresses or blouses, or you’ll see the amazing Maya ruins of guayaberas, men’s tropical dress Uxmal. Some contend they’re as shirts. @ 2 days. good as Chichén Itzá’s, but they’re 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 25

25 Yucatán in definitely less crowded and more an overnight at Hotel del Mar. The compact. Clearly marked roads next 2 days involve long-distance lead you to this ancient city, which driving. @ 1 day. features the Pyramid of the Magician, Take Route 261 about 150 km (93 Nunnery Quadrangle, Governor’s miles) southeast of Campeche to Two Weeks Palace, and the Great Pyramid. Like Escarcega. Then head east on Chichén, they offer an evening light Route 186 for 172 km (103 miles) show. Stay overnight at the Lodge at to Xpujil. Uxmal, just outside the entrance. @ 1 day. 8 Xpujil. Leave Campeche early to reach Edzná’s incredible Maya Take Route 180 251km (157 miles) ruins, about 50km (31 miles) south- south of Mérida through Umán, a east. For further details, see p 58. 90-minute drive. Then it’s a long drive through 7 Campeche. Campeche is the Escarcega to Xpujil (also spelled best-preserved walled city in the Xpuhil), where the Chicanna Eco- Americas. The United Nations Village is a welcome terminus. Easy- declared it a World Heritage Site in to-access local ruins are Xpujil, 2000, which secures protection for Chicanna, and Becán. See p 60 for its narrow cobblestone streets and archaeological details. @ 1 day. colonial-era buildings, painted in Take Route 186 about 110km pastel colors. In Campeche city, see (68 miles) east of Xpujil. Then the Parque Principal, Cathedral of head north on Route 307 for the Conception, the Baluartes on about 37 km (23 miles) to Bacalar. the surviving walls, the Malecón, City Museum, and, near sunset, Fort 9 Lake Bacalar. You’re on your San Miguel, which dominates the way home now from Xpujil. Stop on harbor. We recommend lunch at the way to see the stone masks in Marganzo, dinner at Casa Vieja, and the Kohunlich ruins, and then have a late lunch in Chetumal, Quintana Local men hunt for snakes and small Roo’s capital, at Los Cocos Hotel. animals near the House of the Magician Spend the night 37km (23 miles) at Uxmal. north of the city at Rancho Encan- tado, a lovely hotel on the edge of Lake Bacalar, known as the Lagoon of Seven Colors. For more details, see p 68. @ 1 day. Take Route 307 about 211km (131 miles) north of Lake Bacalar to Tulum. 0 Tulum. After an hour and a half drive’s north to Tulum you’ll reach the crystalline blue waters of the Caribbean. For some rest and relaxation, plan to spend 2 nights on the beach at Zamas, a well-known hotel. Dine there or at Il Giardino di Toni y Simone or Don Cafecito’s in Tulum town. You’ll have 2 days to swim, relax, beachcomb, or indulge in a spa treatment. Be sure to visit 06_081198 ch02.qxp 1/10/07 6:07 PM Page 26

groove for a while; you can feel superior about your journey so far. Swim, relax, and have dinner at John Gray’s Place, see p 123. Before the sun climbs too high in the morning, plop down outdoors at the Coffee Press, Calle 2 and 5th Full-Day Tours Full-Day Avenue, for java as good as it smells. @ Cozumel. The next morning, take the ferry to Cozumel, where you can dive the reefs, golf, or rent The Best a motorbike to explore the wild, windward side of the island. Eat a fried-fish lunch at Chen Rio facing the Caribbean, snorkel or swim with the dolphins at Chankanaab Park, see the Cozumel Museum, visit the small San Gervasio ruins, have dinner at La Veranda, and return to Playa on the ferry. The Cozumel Museum Cafe on the airy upstairs veranda of the Cozumel Hotel Bacalar in Chetumal, capital of Museum, facing the waterfront, is Quintana Roo. the perfect place for a relaxing lunch, snack, or bottomless cup of coffee. the Tulum ruins early in the day, Av. Rafael Melgar (between calles before the annoying crowds arrive. 4 and 6). y 987/872-1475). For Other local activities are worth inves- details, see p 73. @ 2 days. tigating. Consider a nature tour of Take 307 north to Puerto More- the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, just los, halfway between Playa del south of Zamas; the Aktun Chen Carmen and Cancún. caves; and Playa Soliman. For detailed information on Tulum, see # Puerto Morelos. This little p 61. @ 2 days. fishing village is one of the best- kept secrets of the Riviera Maya. Take Route 307 63km (39 miles) Development, for the most part, north of Tulum to Playa del has passed it by, although the new Carmen. mega-resort El Cid opened south of ! Playa del Carmen. Playa del town. The reef just offshore is a Carmen is the kind of place you either National Marine Park and rivals love or hate. Millions of tourists love it Cozumel’s for its beauty and abun- each year, but it’s very different from dance of fish. This is an idyllic spot what you’ve experienced so far. for your last hours in Mexico. Everything centers around 5th Snorkel, swim, and enjoy a fresh Avenue, the pedestrian-only shop- fish lunch at Pelicano’s on the ping, dining, drinking, and partying beach. If you’re still here at dinner- mecca that unwinds parallel to Playa’s time, try Hola Asia on the square. alabaster-white playa. Get into the See additional details on p 50. 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 27

Best of the Yucatán 3 Outdoors 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 28

28 The Best Yucatán Beaches

[1]1 Isla Mujeres [5]5 Akumal Isla Airport Mujeres [2]2 Cancún [6]6 Playa Soliman Ferry route Punta Sam 1 Outdoors [3]3 Puerto Morelos [7]7 Tankah Reef Puerto Juárez Buenaventura Cancún [4]4 Punta Bete/ [8]8 Tulum Ruins 2 Xcalacoco Kantunilkin re Isla Lib Cancún ida érrida Libre ) Gulf of Mexico MMérida Libreoll YUCATÁN (T Cancún ota Mérida 180 CuotaCu (Toll) 180 YUCATÁN To Mérida D Area of detail Croco-Cun Isla de Puerto Morelos 3 Campeche QUINTANA Cozumel Jardín Botánico ROO Tres Ríos Nature Park Best of the Yucatán Best of the Yucatán CAMPECHE Caribbean QUINTANA Chetumal MÉRIDA LIBRE Sea ROO Punta Maroma MEX 307 180 0 100 mi GUATEMALA BELIZE Playa del Carmen 4 Punta Bete Chemax 0 100 km Fe Xcaret rr Puerto Calica Cruise Port y Paamul F Puerto Aventuras erry San Miguel Cobá Xpu-Ha de Cozumel ISLA DE Akumal COZUMEL Xcacel 5 Xel-Ha Lagoon National Park Tankah 6 0 10 mi CARIBBEAN N Tulum Azulik7 SEA 0 10 km ZamasTulum Cabañas Tulum307 8Ana y José

he Yucatán shoreline stretches nearly 1,600km (1,000 miles), Tand its eastern, Caribbean-side beaches are among the world’s finest, famed for their dazzling turquoise waters and bright white sands. Composed of shell fragments broken and tumbled smooth by heavy wave action, the picture-perfect shore remains cool underfoot in even the hottest temperatures. Some stretches are lined with sunbathers, palapas, and hotels. Others—hard as it is to believe— are lined with nothing but palm trees. Visit now, before developers gobble up these last deserted stretches. START: Isla Mujeres. Total trip length: 131km (81 miles) to Tulum.

For more specialized outdoor A Note on Hotels & adventures, see The Yucatán for Restaurants Birdwatchers and The Yucatán for For additional information on sights, Ecotourists, in chapter 4, The Best shops, and recommended hotels Special-Interest Tours. and restaurants on Isla Mujeres, see p 106; in Cancún, see chapter 7.

Previous page: Relaxing on the beach 1 Isla Mujeres. Our favorite in Tulum. laid-back beach time when we’re in 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 29

29 The Best Yucatán

re Lib ida Beaches r ) Mé oll (T ota Cu

The beach and ruins of Tulum.

Cancún is a ferry ride away, on the often considered the most dramatic, beaches of Isla Mujeres. The wind- especially when first viewed from the ward side of this tiny island is great parking area on a bluff. for beachcombers and shell collec- All beaches are public in Mexico, tors, though most locations are too but generally guests use the stretch rough for swimming; the North of sand associated with their hotel. Beach is shallow, warm, and ideal for The Hotel Zone’s public beaches are young children and families (despite usually crowded on Sundays when the occasional discreet topless sun- local families come to play. bather). The leeward side, facing About 25km (15.5 miles) south of Cancún, offers the best swimming Cancún, turn left at the traffic and snorkeling in the bay’s protected light on Highway 307. It’s 3km waters. Most notable of these (1.75 miles) to the beach. beaches are Garrafón Park, near the southern tip; Playa Lancheros 3 Puerto Morelos. This quiet and Sac Bajo, about halfway down fishing and residential village is a the island; and the big beach near favorite of North American snow- the ferries and working lighthouse birds, who often stay long-term downtown. in winter months. Its snow-white beaches are inside an offshore reef, 2 Cancún. Cancún came to be a so they don’t get big waves, but major resort destination principally they do get big raves for crowd-free because of its gorgeous, bright white snorkeling and swimming. Catch a beaches and stunning aquamarine 1 1 ⁄2-hour-long snorkel trip from the water. The Hotel Zone, a 27km pier for $25. Ask to see the ojo de (16.75-mile) sliver of land in the agua (eye of water), where fresh shape of a figure 7, affords two types water enters the sea from an under- of beach getaway. The long side, ground river. with spectacularly good-looking The town of Puerto Morelos has beaches, widened after Hurricane just a few modest hotels; most of its Wilma, faces the Caribbean and sus- accommodations take the form of tains some strong waves when it’s guesthouses, small condominium windy. The shorter top of the figure complexes, or small hotels. A local 7 is on the Bay of Mujeres, where the dining favorite is Pelícano’s, a water is not nearly so blue but is seafood restaurant on the corner of rarely as rough. Playa Delfines, a pub- the square and the beach. Puerto lic beach off Kukulcán, Km 18.5, is 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 30

30 Outdoors

The beach at Puerto Morelos. Best of the Yucatán Best of the Yucatán Morelos is conveniently located 1958, long before other coastal about halfway between Cancún resort areas developed. These days, and Playa del Carmen. condominiums, private villas, and boutique hotels line the beach, Approximately 85km (52.7 miles) which remains uncrowded. south of Cancún on Highway 307, Akumal is a comfortable vacation look on the left for the Coca Cola place for North Americans who plant; the road to Punta Bete’s appreciate familiarity, given that beach is on the south side of the gringos own most of the homes plant, at approximately Km 295.5. here. And you can’t ask for a better 4 Punta Bete/Xcalacoco. Just beach. north of Playa del Carmen is Punta Inland, super snorkeling and Bete, a superb, isolated, pure-white swimming opportunities abound at beach with swaying palm trees and the Yal-ku Lagoon, a similar but rustic, beachfront accommodations. smaller version of nearby Xel-Ha. At Get here before it’s sullied; these 3 the northern end of the town road, miles of gorgeous beach are bound Yal-ku (admission $6) also affords a to be developed. safe snorkeling experience among Stay in comfortable, charming, its clear water and rocky inlets. rustic cabins at Coco’s Cabañas Look out over Akumal Bay from a (y 998/874-7056; $50–$75). Sur- room at the all-suites Hacienda de rounded by tropical gardens, these la Tortuga (www.haciendatortuga. intimate cabañas are just meters com; y 984/875-9370), a pleasant, from the beach. Eat fresh fish next small hotel on the beach. Tortuga is door at Los Piños, a rustic palapa Spanish for turtle, which is what beach bungalow where the hut spe- Akumal means in Mayan. cialty is Tikin-Xic, grilled filet of fish Dine al fresco at the appealing, flavored with achiote. Lol-Ha Restaurant & Bar in Hotel Akumal. Approximately 122km (75.5 miles) south of Cancún on Highway 307, Take Highway 307 approximately look for “Playa Akumal.” But be 137km (85 miles) south of Cancún. aware that several resorts use 6 Playa Soliman. Oscar y Lalo’s the name Akumal. Restaurant put pretty Playa Soliman 5 Akumal. Akumal’s offshore on the map. Fresh fish and Yucatecan/ reefs and wonderful half-moon- Mexican food in an unhurried atmos- shaped bay have attracted divers phere make repeat visitors out of and inveterate beach lovers since anyone who stumbles across this 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 31

31 The Best Yucatán modest rustic restaurant on the beach. Owned by someone who eschews development, the open-air bungalow restaurant offers free hammocks for siestas, ocean kayaks for exploring the bay and reef, a hidden cenote for swimming, and good food in the shade of their palapa. Except Beaches for Lalo’s, no hotels or buildings are visible from the beach in either direction. Playa Soliman is a very special, singular place. Some like the sun, and some prefer the Take Highway 307 approximately shade on Playa Soliman. 140km (87 miles) south of Cancún. 8 Tulum. Tulum’s plethora of facili- 7 Tankah. The beaches of Tankah ties and its reputation as a remote feature exclusive guesthouses and escape from the demands of civiliza- small boutique hotels in a setting tion make it the hippest place to stay that is, as yet, undeveloped. Heav- on the Riviera Maya. It was inevitable enly pure white sand and blue waters that the demand for lodgings on the are the staples. Eat American-style gorgeous beach along the Boca Tex-Mex at the Casa Cenote Paila Road would mean that more Restaurant on a rocky beach. Oppo- small hotels would pop up on the site this restaurant, along the beach coastline between the ruins at Tulum road, is Tankah Cenote. This natural and the protected nature preserve, underground river is one of the deep- Sian Ka’an Biosphere. The beaches est and clearest around, so jump are beyond beautiful; even the sandy right in. shore below the cliffside ruins Stay overnight in the heavenly attracts beach bums with cultural Blue Sky Inn (www.blueskymexico. pretensions. com; y 984/801-4004), a short way On-the-shore accommodations down the sand street from Casa in Tulum run from rustic sand-floor Cenote. cabañas to upscale luxury suites Take Highway 307 approximately and everything in between— 130km (80.5 miles) south of all on the beach. See p 75 for Cancún. recommendations.

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32 Underwater Yucatán RRÍAÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS Gulf of Mexico BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RRESERVEESERVE IslaIsla ContoyContoy Cancún Mérida BirdBird SSanctuaryanctuary YUCATÁNRRíoío LLagartosagartos IslaIsla HolboxHolbox Outdoors Area of detailSANSAN FELIPEFELIPE NATURENATURE RESERVERESERVE Campeche 295 ChiquilCChiquiláhiquilá QUINTANA IslaIsla ROO PuntaPunta SamSam CAMPECHE MujeresMujeres Caribbean PPuertouerto JJuarezuarez Chetumal Sea 1 176 TizimTTizimínizimín CancCCancúnancún KantunilkinKantunilkin 0 100 mi e ibr GUATEMALA BELIZE a L ridarid Libre 0295 100 km MMéridaé Libre ll) (To ota EEkk BBalamalam CuotaCu (Toll) PuertoPuerto

Best of the Yucatán Best of the Yucatán 180 MorelosMorelos ToTo MMéridaérridaida D 2 180 307 180 PlayaPlaya ddelel CCarmenarmen ValladolidValladolid XcaretXcaret 3 ChichCChichénhichén IItzItzátzá PaamulPaamul SanSan MiguelMiguel Xpu-HaXpu-Ha YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN dede CozumelCozumel CobCCobáobá AkumalAkumal IslaIsla dede 4 CozumelCozumel TankahTankah 5 TulumTulum Xel-HaXel-Ha LLagoonagoon NationalNational PParkark QQUINTANAU I N T A N A TulumTulum RROOO O 295 307

184 VigíaVigVigía PuntaPunta AllenAllen FelipeFelipe ChicoChico CarrilloCarrillo BahBBahíaahía dede lala AscensiónAscensiAscensión 184 PuertoPuerto SIANSIAN KA'ANKA'AN BahíaBBahahía deldel EspírituEspEspírituritu SantoSanto BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 307 RESERVERESERVE CaribbeanC a r i b b e a n SeaS e a LosLos LimonesLimones LázaroLázzaroaro CárdenasCárrdenasdenas r la a c a B l a a MajahualMajahual BancoBanco BacalarBacalar n DzibanchDDzibanchézibanché u m g u ChinchorroChinchorro a t L e h ChetumalChetumal C e d 0 20 mi 186 ía h N a KohunlichKohunlich B 0 20 km

XcalakXcalak Maya archaeological site 6 BBELIZEE L I Z E Cuota (toll highway)

1 Isla Mujeres 4 Akumal 2 Puerto Morelos 5 Hidden Worlds Cenote 3 Cozumel 6 Xcalak 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 33

33 Underwater he Great Mesoamerican Reef—the 474km (294-mile) ribbon of Tcoral adorning the Caribbean coast from Cancún to Belize—is the RÍA LAGARTOS world’s second longest. Brimming with a diversity of organisms, it’s BIOSPHERE RESERVE Isla Contoy Río Lagartos Isla Holbox Bird Sanctuary home to 450 species of fish and 80 types of coral alone. Its barrier and fringe reefs are common enough, but its kidney-shaped Chinchorro SAN FELIPE NATURE RESERVE Reef, off Xcalak, is the largest coral atoll in the Americas. It’s also dis- Yucatán Chiquilá tinguished by cenotes—sinkholes or wellsprings that are unique to the Isla Punta Sam Mujeres Yucatán, with its fragile limestone makeup. START: Isla Mujeres. Total Puerto Juarez Tizimín Cancún trip length: 380km (235.5 miles). Kantunilkin e ibr a L rid Mé ll) appealing dive. You can arrange (To ota A Note on Hotels & Ek Balam Cu Puerto sportfishing trips at the Fishermen’s Morelos Restaurants Cooperative near the ferry. To Mérida For additional information on sights, Playa del Carmen Take Highway 307 approximately shops, and recommended hotels Valladolid Xcaret 25km (15.5 miles) south of Cancún. Chichén Itzá Paamul San Miguel and restaurants on Isla Mujeres, see Xpu-Ha Y U C A T ÁN de Cozumel p 106; on Cozumel, see p 100. 2 Puerto Morelos. This village Cobá Akumal Isla de Cozumel is one of the few along the coastline that predates Cancún. An offshore Tankah Isla Mujeres is 19km (11.75 miles) Tulum Xel-Ha Lagoon reef protects the shore and, in turn, National Park offshore from Cancún. Take the Q U I N T A N A Tulum is protected as a National Marine R O O people ferry from either of two Park. Experienced snorkelers report docks in Puerto Juárez, just north that Puerto Morelos has better coral of downtown Cancún. and fish than the widely regarded Chankanaab Park on Cozumel. Vigía Punta Allen 1 Isla Mujeres. Wonderful snor- Felipe Chico keling and dive opportunities are to Divers go down in several locales Carrillo Bahía de la Ascensión Puerto be had in the protected waters that where the reef drops off, as well as in the Ojo de Agua, a patch offshore SIAN separate Isla Mujeres from Cancún. El Garrafón Park is the most popular where fresh water enters the sea KA'AN Bahía del Espíritu Santo snorkeling spot for beginners; it from the ocean floor. BIOSPHERE features a reef close to shore that RESERVE sparkles with colorful fish swimming A couple explores a Yucatecan coral reef. C a r i b b e a n in and out of its nooks and crannies. S e a Los Limones Garrafón is diverse enough to be an Lázaro Cárdenas all-day excursion. Visitors just looking r to snorkel can take a snorkel trip by la a c a launch to reach Manchones Reef or B l a a Majahual Banco the reef around the lighthouse in the Bacalar n Dzibanché u m g u Chinchorro a t bay. Seemingly everybody will offer L e h Chetumal C you trips as you arrive on the ferry. e d For divers, a sunken 1-ton bronze ía h a cross, placed in memoriam to those Kohunlich B lost at sea, is a favorite destination Xcalak on Manchones Reef. So is Isla’s B E L I Z E world-famous Cave of the Sleeping Sharks, where sharks seem to float completely stationary in the cur- rents. Although the arch at La Punta has collapsed, and few sharks hang out there these days, it’s still an 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 34

34 You can arrange fruitful fishing trips at the central pier. If you can handle luxury, spend the night at Puerto Morelos’s premiere hotel, the

Outdoors Ceiba del Mar (see the Best Spas, p 63). And while you’re lapping in luxury, dine at the Riviera Maya’s best gourmet restaurant, John Gray’s (Av. Niños Héroes; y 998/871-0665; see p 123 for details). Cozumel lies 19km (11.75 miles) off the coast from the ferry dock in Playa del Carmen, which is

Best of the Yucatán Best of the Yucatán about 70km (43.5 miles) south of Cancún on Highway 307. A diver at Hidden World Cenote.

3 Cozumel. Jacques Cousteau’s National Park. Experienced divers groundbreaking film about the stun- favor the Paraiso, Chankanaab, ningly beautiful garland of reefs off Yucab, Palancar, Columbia, and Cozumel’s western shore helped Maracaibo reefs, which parallel the stake its reputation as the place to leeward coast. Each of these magnifi- drift-dive. Underwater visibility can cent reefs has different coral types reach as far as 250 feet (75m), and and formations, so divers can experi- excellent dive and snorkel spots ence an exciting new environment abound. Snorkelers can go by launch every day for a week without offshore on snorkel trips or stay exhausting the possibilities. close to the beach at Chankanaab You can arrange sportfishing trips through travel agents or directly A Yucatecan gray angelfish. through charter boats at the harbor, north of the ferry dock. Approximately 122km (75.5 miles) south of Cancún on Highway 307, look for signs for “Playa Akumal.” 4 Akumal. Akumal’s fabulous reef protects an idyllic half-moon bay, around which condominiums, private villas, boutique hotels, and beachfront restaurants have sprouted. It was already an established community in the 1950s, when Mexican divers made it their base after they found the wreck of Mantanceros, the Spanish galleon that sank in 1741. Now, Akumal’s three bays and coral reefs are a playground for North Americans, many of whom populate the residential resort year-round. Snorkelers can plumb the reefs, and beginners can cut their chops in the natural Yal-ku Lagoon, which is perfect for beginning snorkelers. Stay 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 35

35 Underwater at the lagoon-side garden boutique hotel Qué Onda (www.queonda akumal.com, y 984/875-9101), and enjoy the good life at the upstairs/ downstairs La Buena Vida Bar & Restaurant, on the beach. Yucatán Take Highway 307 approximately 136km (84.25 miles) south of Cancún. 5 Hidden Worlds Cenote. Discover hidden worlds (y 984/877- 8535, www.hiddenworlds.com.mx, $40 snorkel tour) by diving and snorkeling in this series of lighted cenote An adult Sargassum triggerfish off the caverns, which are part of an under- shores of Cozumel. ground river system. The water is crystalline but quite chilly. The pro- Limones for Majahual and the truding rock formations are so Xcalak peninsula. Drive 50km impressive they made an appearance (31 miles) to an Army Guard in the IMAX movie, Journey into house. Straight ahead is the town Amazing Caves. The caverns are of Majahual. Turn left for 55km located off the highway about 2km (34 miles) more to Xcalak. (1.25 miles) south of Xel-Ha Park. 6 Xcalak. Lesser known than its From the reception office, visitors close neighbor, the Belize Cays, journey to the various cave spots in a Xcalak offers equally great diving at a “jungle mobile” truck. Some walking lower price. And Xcalak does it even is involved, so bring comfortable better, because of Chinchorro Reef, a shoes. Scheduled snorkel and dive kidney-shaped atoll reef, 32km (19.75 tours take place at 9am, 11am, miles) off the coast. Underwater, the 1pm, 2pm, and 3pm. Thrill seekers curious reef is nearly the size of can also ride jungle zip lines above Cozumel Island. Chinchorro, which the treetops. means “fishing net,” features a shal- About 45 minutes south of Felipe low interior, which is ideal for snor- Carrillo Puerto, turn left in keling, and more than 30 shipwrecks are strewn around it like coral Christ- A snorkeler off the shores of Cozumel. mas decorations. Only licensed oper- ators can take divers to this national treasure, which was partly damaged when a ferry wrecked on the atoll during Hurricane Wilma in 2005. Xcalak itself is a weather-beaten dive and fishing town, with a certain je ne se quois (no sé qué?) among travelers in search of beach-bum culture, which is fast disappearing. But you can also stay in dependable, classy comfort at Casa Carolina (y 983/839-1958, www.casacarolina. net), a bed-and-breakfast that runs dive trips from its own wooden dock, just north of town on the beach. 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 36

36 The Best Yucatán Golf Courses

GULF OF MEXICO Isla Holbox El Cuyo Outdoors Holbox Isla Ferry Laguna Contoy RÍA LAGARTOS Yalahán BIOSPHERE RESERVE Chiquilá Airport Ferry route Isla Mujeres Reef Punta Sam Ruins Puerto Juárez Cancún 0 10 mi 1 Kantunilkin Best of the Yucatán Best of the Yucatán N Isla 0 10 km Cancún

MEX MÉRIDA LIBRE YUCATÁN 180 MEX CUOTA (TOLL) 180 D Croco-Cun To Mérida ) Puerto Morelos MEX CUOTA (TOLL Nuevo Xcan Jardín Botánico 180 2 D Tres Ríos Nature Park QUINTANA MEX 307 MÉRIDA LIBRE ROO Punta Maroma MEX Playa del Carmen 3 180 4 Punta Bete Chemax 5 Fe Xcaret rr Puerto Calica Cruise Port y Paamul 6 F Puerto Aventuras err 7 y San Miguel Cobá Xpu-Ha de Cozumel Akumal ISLA DE Xcacel COZUMEL Xel-Ha Lagoon National Park Tankah CARIBBEAN Tulum SEA MEX Tulum 307

Chunyaxché Muyil Gulf of Mexico Cancún Chumpón Mérida YUCATÁN Boca Paila Area of detail SIAN KA’AN Campeche MEX BIOSPHERE QUINTANA 307 RESERVE ROO CAMPECHE Caribbean Chetumal Sea

Vigía Chíco Punta Allen 0 100 mi Bahía de la GUATEMALA BELIZE Ascensión 0 100 km Peninsula 1 CancúnVigia Grande 5 Playacar Golf Club To Chetumal 2 Mayan Resorts Golf Club 6 Cozumel Country Club 3 Iberostar Playa Paraíso Golf Club 7 Puerto Aventuras 4 Camaleón Mayakoba 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 37

37 The Best Yucatán ot balls? In recent years, the Riviera Maya has developed some Gchallenging and visually appealing golf courses, with jungle roughs, water hazards, dazzling oceanfront views, and other exotic features. Several courses were laid out by the sport’s most renowned architects, including the Nicklaus Design Group. Remember that midday golfers get the hot sun; early birds get the warm. Bring your own clubs or rent. START: Cancún. Total length: 98km (60.75 miles). Golf Courses

A Note on Hotels & Restaurants For additional information on sights, shops, and recommended hotels and restaurants in Cancún, see Chapter 7; on Cozumel, see p 100.

1 Cancún. Cancún currently fits four major golf courses into its 14- mile borders. Two new courses are under construction. Puerto Cancún is the centerpiece of a new, self-contained resort community between the Hotel Zone and downtown. And the impressive TPC La Roca Coun- try Club, which will host the PGA Tour in 2008, promises to be open by press time. La Roca is between The Cancún Golf Club at Pok-Ta-Pok. the downtown and the airport on Highway 307. yards long, with an on-site pro shop, The Hotel Zone’s first established practice green, and driving range. and most popular course is Pok It’s not exactly in the Hotel Zone, Ta Pok Club de Golf, designed by but Moon Palace’s 7,165-yard, Robert Trent Jones, Jr. This 18-hole, par-72 Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf par-73 golf course is 6,721 yards. Course (www.palaceresorts.com) is a (y 998/883-1230; www.cancungolf tad south of Cancún city, down High- club.com). way 307 near Bahia Petempech. The Melia Cancún Golf Club 2 Mayan Resorts Golf Club (y 998/885-1114) is an 18-hole, par- (Km 38, Hwy 307, www.mayan 54 course, with a total length of 1,818 resortsgolf.com). The Nicklaus yards. It’s on the grounds of the Melia Design Group created this challeng- Hotel at Km 16 on Kukulcán Boulevard. ing executive course on the Riviera The 9-hole Cancún Oasis Golf Maya. Known to have difficult greens, Club (y 998/885-0867) has a par-27 it’s 2,923 yards with a par of 54. course, with a maximum length of 888 yards. Short and sweet. 3 Iberostar Playa Paraíso Robert Trent Jones, Jr. designed Golf Club (y 984/877-2847, www. the Caesar Park Hotel Golf Club iberostar.com). This par-72, P. B. (y 998/881-8016), an 18-hole, par- Dye–designed course features nar- 72 championship course. It’s 6,767 row fairways, undulating greens, and 07_081198 ch03.qxp 1/10/07 6:05 PM Page 38

38 deep bunkers with dramatic vertical movement. It’s south of Puerto Morelos on Highway 307. 4 Camaleón Mayakoba (www.

Outdoors fairmont.com/mayakoba). The Camaleón is a challenging 18-hole course a few kilometers north of Playa del Carmen. Designed by Greg Norman, it’s on the grounds of the luxury Mayakoba Hotel. Golfers who appreciate water hazards will love taking a boat on the hotel’s canal system to the first tee of this stun-

Best of the Yucatán Best of the Yucatán ningly beautiful course, which bends through the vegetation and features long stretches of Pebble Beach–like oceanfront vistas.

5 Playacar Golf Club (y 987/ Teeing off at the Westin Resort & Spa 873-0624, www.palaceresorts.com). Cancún. In the community of Playacar, just south of downtown Playa del Car- Nicklaus Design–built beauty is this men, this Robert Von Haggy course environmentally sensitive showcase is as difficult to play as it is beautiful course with jungle roughs. It opened to view. It’s a par-72, and 7,202 yards north of San Miguel in the island’s long. Errant shots into the jungle are lowland forest. definitely drop balls—or mulligans, if 7 Puerto Aventuras. At Puerto you’re us. Aventuras is the Riviera Maya Golf 6 Cozumel Country Club Club (y 984/873-5109), a par-36, (y 987/872-9570, www.cozumel 9-hole course designed by Thomas countryclub.com.mx). Another Leeman.

The Playacar Golf Club, near Playa del Carmen. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 39

The Best Special- 4 Interest Tours 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 40

40 The Yucatán for Ecotourists Tours Gulf of Mexico IIslasla ContoyContoy RÍARÍA LLAGARTOSAGARTOS BBirdird SSanctuaryanctuary BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE SANSAN FFELIPEELIPE RESERVERESERVE NNATUREATURE RRESERVEESERVE RíoRío LagartosLagartos Isla Holbox 1 2

ProgresoProgreso 295 TTizimínizimín CCancúnancún MotulMotul 176 HunucmáHunucmá MéMéridarida KantunilkinKantunilkin 180 Isla CelestúnCelestún IIzamalzamal 295 Mujeres Special-Interest RÍRÍAA 281 180 180 CELESTÚNCELESTÚN 4 D PPlayalaya ddelel NNAT’LAT’L CCarmenarmen WWILDLIFEILDLIFE 261 180 VValladolidalladolid Chichén Itzá 3 REFUGEREFUGE 307 Isla de TiculTicul Cozumel LOSLOS YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN Cobá 7 PETENESPETENES Uxmal Tulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE The Best 180 TekaxTekax RESERVERESERVE XXel-Hael-Ha LagoonLagoon 184 NNationalational PParkark 307 CCampecheampeche 261 295 6 PuntaPunta AllenAllen 261 HHopelchénopelchén FFelipeelipe CCarrilloarrillo 180 PuertoPuerto Bahía de la Ascensión Edzná 184 SIANSIAN ChampotónChampotón Bahía del QQUINTANAU I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN Espíritu Santo ROOR O O BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E 307 RESERVERESERVE

261 CCALAKMULALAKMUL BBIOSPHEREIOSPHERE RRESERVEESERVE Dzibanché BacalarBacalar 186 5 Becán Xpujil ChetumalChetumal FranciscoFrancisco BahíaBahBahía Banco EscárcegaEscárcega Chicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal Chinchorro Kohunlich CCALAKMULALAKMUL XcalakXcalak Calakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RRESERVEESERVE

BelizeBelize CityCity Turneffe GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A BelmopanBelmopan Islands

BBELIZEE L I Z E FloresFlores Caribbean Sea

0 50 mi N 0 50 km Gulf of Maya archaeological site Honduras Cuota (toll highway) HHONDURASO N D U R A S

1 Isla Contoy Bird Sanctuary 5 Calakmul Biosphere Reserve 2 Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve 6 Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve 3 Cenotes Xkekén & Samulá 7 Aktun Chen Caves 4 Celestún National Wildlife Refuge

Previous page: El Castillo at Chichén Itzá. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 41

41 The Yucatán for denic beaches aside, the Yucatán is nothing short of Ground EZero for this geologic age—the crash pad for the asteroid that rocked the earth 65 million years ago, effecting the climate changes Isla Contoy RÍA LAGARTOS Bird Sanctuary BIOSPHERE that annihilated the dinosaurs. The resulting underwater scar— SAN FELIPE RESERVE NATURE RESERVE Río Lagartos the Chicxulub Crater—is just one of the peninsula’s many distinctive features, including species of wildlife found nowhere else on Earth.

Progreso It’s understandable that more and more developers want a piece of Ecotourists Tizimín Cancún Motul this extraordinary region, paradoxically threatening the paradise Hunucmá Mérida Kantunilkin they covet. But the law curbs development in most of the following Celestún Izamal RÍA wildlife sanctuaries; many of them even limit the number of visitors CELESTÚN Playa del NAT’L Carmen WILDLIFE Valladolid they entertain. What’s unlimited are the Technicolor birds, wildly REFUGE fertile jungles, surreal cenotes, even jaguars and crocodiles— Ticul LOS Y U C A T ÁN PETENES under protections that will let them flourish for future generations. BIOSPHERE Tekax RESERVE Xel-Ha Lagoon START: Isla Contoy (Isla Mujeres). Total trip: 1,200km (744 miles). National Park Campeche Punta Allen To reach Isla Contoy, take the ferry off the coast of Cancún, set aside as a Hopelchén Felipe Carrillo Puerto from Isla Mujeres, offshore from bird sanctuary and National Wildlife SIAN Cancún. Check for tours from the Reserve in 1981. Lush vegetation Champotón KA'AN Q U I N T A N A Hotel Zone, too. covers this oddly shaped, 6km-long R O O BIOSPHERE C A M P E C H E RESERVE (3.75-mile) parcel of land, which har- 1 = Isla Contoy Bird Sanc- bors more than 70 bird species and a CALAKMUL tuary. Tiny Isla Contoy (www.isla BIOSPHERE host of marine and animal life. The contoy.org) is an uninhabited island RESERVE Bacalar island’s nesting birds include pelicans Chetumal (who will grub food from your boat), Francisco Bahía Pink flamingos at Ría Lagartos. Escárcega de Chetumal brown boobies, frigates, egrets, terns, and cormorants. Flocks of CALAKMUL Xcalak BIOSPHERE flamingos arrive in April, and from RESERVE June through August turtles also nest in the sand dunes at night. It’s best to reach Contoy by boat from Isla Mujeres, but the number Belize City of daily visitors is limited. For about G U A T E M A L A Belmopan $40, you can arrange a launch at the Fisherman’s Cooperative on the B E L I Z E waterfront for the 45-minute journey. Flores We prefer the slightly slower trip on Capitan Ricardo Gaitán’s wooden- hulled boat, the Estrella del Norte. Gaitan’s office is on Av. Madero (y 998/877-0434; $40 per person). As you sail, the crew unfurls fishing lines to catch your lunch. En route, H O N D U R A S you get to stop and snorkel over an open-water reef, and while you’re exploring the island, your crew cooks the fish for your meal. Isla Contoy also features a small museum (no address, no phone), walking paths, and a panoramic look- out tower. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 42

42 Tours Special-Interest The Best

Cenote Xkekén near Valladolid.

Approximately 105km (65 miles) You can arrange tours in advance north of Valladolid, at the end of through travel agents or Eco-Colors Route 296, on the Yucatán’s north (y 998/884-3667) in Cancún. Or shore. drive up from Valladolid early in the morning for the best viewing. Enter 2 = Ría Lagartos Biosphere the town and drive to the waterfront, Reserve. If it weren’t for the thou- where you can make tour arrange- sands of flamingos that nest and ments at the guide’s white kiosk. feed in the river lagoons, between a Hawkers often approach your car barrier island and the sea, the inhabi- before you get there, soliciting you tants of hardscrabble Río Lagartos to board their boats. The cost is would still be eking out a living only approximately $45 to $65 per person, as fishermen, living off the capricious depending on the length of your trip; whims of Neptune. But ecotourists longer trips visit more colonies. and birdwatchers now flock here too, Breeding season runs from April to see the pink and white birds, gen- though June, so you can’t get too erating a second source of income near to the bird’s mud nests, which for local residents. (The community protrude above the shallow water- recognizes the symbiotic relationship line. The rest of the year, boat cap- between the birds and the tourists, tains skillfully move in close enough and they feel very protective of to the birds that you can photograph both.) them standing on one leg without The 48,564-hectare (120,000- scaring them away. acre) Ría Lagartos Nature Reserve Be sure to wear insect repellent, was established in 1979 to protect a hat, and sunscreen. Bring water, the largest nesting population of a snack on longer journeys, and a flamingos in North America. It’s the camera with a zoom lens. balance of mineral salts in the water that causes the delicate birds’ soft Take Route 180 (Calle 39) approxi- pink color. mately 4km (2.5 miles) west of Boat launches depart from the Valladolid. These cenotes are village harbor to visit the colonies. near the town of Dzitnup. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 43

43 The Yucatán for 3 = Cenotes Xkekén & Samulá. A series of steps, made from slightly slippery hewn rock, leads down into the cavern of Cenote Xkekén (pronounced Ish- kay-ken), the most fascinating and beautiful of Yucatán’s countless

cenotes, or underwater caves. Ecotourists Also known as Cenote Dzitnup, this large, underground cavern is illuminated by well-hidden artificial light, and a round hole in the roof shines a spotlight of sun onto the translucent blue water below. The shaft of light penetrates the clear water to its very depths, and the colors are intense, making for a surreal scene. A $3 admission allows you to swim, so bring a swimsuit. But do not wear suntan lotion Cenote Samula near Valladolid. because it kills the small fish and Cenote Samulá, across the minute organisms that make the road, is an equally inspiring sight in cenote a living ecosystem. a similar setting—a large cavern Try to avoid arriving when tour with intense blue water that is part buses are in the parking lot; a horde of the deep underground river that of people detracts from the experi- flows under Valladolid. ence. The parking lot has several Cenotes Xkekén and Samulá are stands selling souvenirs and some like nothing you’ve seen before; only handicrafts made by the local peo- the cenote in the Aktun Chen cave ple of Dznitup.

Portals to the Underworld

The Yucatán Peninsula is a flat slab of limestone that millions of years ago absorbed the force of the giant meteor thought to have extinguished the dinosaurs. The impact sent shock waves through the brittle limestone, fracturing it throughout, creating an immense net- work of fissures that drain rainwater away from the surface. When driving through northern and central Yucatán, you’ll notice no bridges, rivers, or watercourses. The vast subterranean basin, which stretches for miles across the peninsula, is invisible but for the area’s many cenotes—sinkholes or natural wells that don’t exist outside the peninsula. Many are perfectly round vertical shafts that look like nothing else in nature; others are in caverns that retain a partial roof, often perforated by tree roots. To the Maya, they were passageways to the underworld. Indeed, they look sacred: Quiet, dark, and cool, they are the opposite of the warm, bright world outside. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 44

44 strip of land. The boat ride along this corridor allows you to see the

Tours birds filtering the bottom mud for the insects and small shrimp-like crustaceans that make up the bulk of their diet.

Fun Fact Flamingos would be white, but the

Special-Interest salt and mineral balance of the water renders them pink.

Launches leave from the co-op

The Best at the bridge, where you can park, have a snack, and purchase tickets for the hour-long trip (about $45 per boat and $2 per person). The fewer people in the boat the better A long-legged reddish egret. because the ria’s waters can get very shallow in spots. Longer trips rivals them. If you’re near Valladolid, are available from the beach in don’t miss them. town. These boats go around the tip of the sand peninsula and visit an From Mérida, drive west on Route extra colony on the way. On either 25 through Caucel, Hunucmá, and trip, ask to stop and swim at the Kinchil and follow the signs west 1 cenote in the woods. The trees on Route 281. It’s about a 1 ⁄2-hour growing from underwater give drive. it a swampy look, with clear, dark, 4 = Celestún National fresh water that filters up from Wildlife Refuge. After a hurricane underground. once disrupted the Ría Lagartos The beach in Celestún village is breeding and feeding grounds, good, so consider an overnight flamingo colonies settled on the stay at the new Hotel Manglares Yucatán’s west coast in Celestún’s (y 988/916-2156, www.hotel brackish lagoons. Fortunately, manglares.com.mx) on the beach in Mexico formed the Celestún National the downtown area, 300 meters Wildlife Refuge to protect them, on north of La Palapa Restaurant. It fea- 6,070 hectares (15,000 acres) of tures lovely individual bungalows coastal beach and mangrove wet- and ocean-view rooms with bal- lands. Flamingos and other water- conies. Any of the mostly fresh fish fowl now flourish there. restaurants that line the beach are Fresh water from scores of excellent, but avoid La Palapa, underwater cenotes mixes with which is a tour-bus stop. salty water from the Gulf of Mexico Take Route 186 to the entrance in this long shallow estuary, which 52km (32.25 miles) west of Xpujil; provides perfect feeding and breed- the ruins of Calakmul are another ing conditions for flamingos. The 60km (37 miles) south on a single- estuary (ria) is 50km (31 miles) long, lane, bumpy road. protected from the sea by a narrow 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 45

45 The Yucatán for 5 Calakmul Biosphere to a natural depression in the Reserve. This protected forest, ground, which collects and stores stretching into neighboring water during the rainy season from Guatemala, is the Yucatán’s largest June to September. It holds the and last virgin forest. In 1989, water into the dry season and, night Campeche set aside almost 13% of and day, during both seasons, the the state—72,441 hectares (179,000 jungle’s animal population comes to

acres) on the Mexico side of the bor- this water hole to drink. For your Ecotourists der—as a wildlife preserve. efforts—which include being sucked Calakmul, named after the aston- dry by mosquitoes or bitten by ishing ruined city within its borders, snakes and scorpions—you might be boasts a wide diversity of flora and lucky enough to spot a rare jaguar. fauna, including sacred jaguars, For those with a deep interest in pre- margays, a myriad of plant species, Columbian civilization, the fabulous 230 species of birds, coatis, pacas, ruins are worth the arduous effort it monkeys, tapirs, armadillos, fox, takes to visit them. and deer—not to mention several Arrange a tour in Campeche incredible ancient Mayan cities with Expediciones Ecoturísticas overtaken by jungle. (y 981/816-0197) in Xpujil with the Naturalists and avid nature pho- Tourist Information Office (y 983/ tographers will find its topographi- 871-6064) or in the Mayan village cal aguada fascinating. About 27km of 20 de Noviembre (no phone, no (16.75 miles) down the forest road English). For self-guided entrance, from the highway, after the war- admission to the park is about $6 den’s hut, a path on the right leads a car, $2 per person.

The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 46

46 Stay the night in Xpujil or in The pride of Quintana Roo’s Hotel Puerta Calakmul (Rte. environmental movement, Sian

Tours 186; no phone) at the Biosphere’s Ka’an was created in 1986 to pro- entrance from the highway. It’s tect the midstate region of tropical best to get an early start (by about forests, savannas, mangroves, 7am). canals, lagoons, bays, cenotes, and coral reefs inhabited by hundreds About 130km (80.5 miles) south of birds as well as land and marine of Cancún, turn left at the Tulum animals. traffic light, toward the beach, The best way to see the core and then right (south) on the

Special-Interest sights of this expansive nature Boca Paila Road. The Biosphere reserve is through a guided tour. begins a few miles down the EcoColors in Cancún (y 998/884- road. 3667, www.ecotravelmexico.com; 6 = Sian Ka’an Biosphere tours $99–$109) offers several The Best Reserve. More accessible to active day-tour options with trans- tourists than Calakmul, the Sian portation, which includes hiking, Ka’an Biosphere (meaning Birth of biking, kayaking, boat rides, and the Sun in Maya) features 526,110 floats down a canal between hectares (1.3 million acres) of land lagoons past the overgrown ruins and watery lagoons teeming with of a Mayan customs house. wildlife, just south of the beaches of Naturalists or biologists lead Tulum teeming with tanned tourists. EcoColor’s tours, and guests can

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47 The Yucatán for Ecotourism Boom

The Yucatán Peninsula has seen a recent explosion in the number of companies that organize nature and adventure tours. Two well- established outfits with solid track records are Ecoturismo Yucatan

in Mérida (y 999-920-2772; www.ecoyuc.com) and Ecocolors in Ecotourists Cancún (y 998/884-3667; www.ecotravelmexico.com). See the websites for details.

spend the night comfortably at the for those who can’t distinguish a beachfront jungle lodge run by crane from a cormorant. the environmental group Centro Take Highway 307 road approxi- Ecológico Sian Ka’an (y 984/ mately 84km (52 miles) south of 871-2499, www.cesiak.org). Pro- Cancún. ceeds fund conservation programs. Nearly 1,200 species of animals 7 = Aktun Chen Caves. call Sian Ka’an home, including Discovered in the jungle by chicle giant crocodiles and a plethora of workers, who used it as a refuge birds, including blue and white during hurricanes, Aktun Chen is a herons, roseate spoonbills, cor- labyrinth of stunning caves that morants, hummingbirds, snowy house a brilliant green cenote, an egrets, storks, kingfishers, and big underground river, and brilliantly black vultures. You can obtain more sharp stalactites and stalagmites. information about the biosphere They have carefully preserved lots from the Amigos de Sian Ka’an of interesting geological features, (y 998/848-2136, www.amigos including underground pools and desiankaan.org), a non-profit large chambers, illuminated by dis- organization set up by local envi- creet lighting. ronmentalists to help Mexico’s fed- The hour-long escorted tour eral and state governments govern is well lit and not overly claustropho- this delicate ecosystem. It’s a per- bic; footing is good, but the tour petual, delicate responsibility, as requires a fair amount of walking. financial pressure to open the A small zoo showcases local fauna, beaches to development is quite and several of the critters run free strong. on the grounds. Theoretically, the number of visi- The admission price is a little high tors allowed into the biosphere at ($17 for adults and $9 for children), any one time is limited, but enforce- which is typical of Quintana Roo ment is lax, and the law has lots of attractions. But this is a unique natu- loopholes. Don’t take a jeep or all- ral wonder worth the price, especially terrain vehicle tour if you really care given that the tours are in English as about the environment. well as in Spanish. The caves are up a A visit to Sian Ka’an is not too dirt road, about 3 or 4km (2 miles) strenuous or dangerous, and it from the highway at Km 107. y 998/ makes a rewarding day trip—even 877-8550. www.aktunchen.com. Open daily 8:30am–5pm. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 48

48 The Yucatán for Families Tours GULF OF MEXICO Isla Holbox El Cuyo Holbox Isla Ferry Laguna Contoy RÍRÍAA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS Yalahán BBIOSPHEREIOSPHERE RRESERVEESERVE Chiquilá

0 10 mi N IIslasla 0 10 km Special-Interest MMujeresujeres Punta Sam 2 Puerto Juárez Buenaventura Cancún 1 Kantunilkin Isla bre The Best Li Cancún da éridari Libre ll) MMérida Libre(To ta YUCATÁN uo 180 CuotaC (Toll) 180 D Croco-CunCroco-Cun ToTo MMéridaérridaida (Toll) Puerto Morelos a CuotaCuot (Toll 3 e Nuevo Xcan JJardínardín BotánicoBotánico br 180 Li TTresres RRíosíos NNatureature PParkark D a id QUINTANA érrida Libre MMérida Libre ROO 307 Punta Maroma 180 Playa del Carmen Punta Bete Chemax Fe Xcaret rr Puerto Calica Cruise Port 4 y Paamul Puerto Aventuras Fe rry San Miguel Cobá Xpu-Ha de Cozumel Akumal ISLA DE Xcacel COZUMEL XXel-Hael-Ha LLagoonagoon NNationalational PParkark 5 Tankah CARIBBEAN Tulum Azulik ZamasTulum SEA Cabañas Tulum Ana y José Seuños Tulum Chunyaxché Muyil Dos Ceibas

Chumpón Gulf of Mexico Boca Paila Fishing Lodge Cancún Boca Paila Mérida YUCATÁN SSIANIAN KKA’ANA’AN Area of detail BBIOSPHEREIOSPHERE 307 RRESERVEESERVE Campeche Cuzan QUINTANA Guest House ROO CAMPECHE Caribbean Vigía PPuntaunta AAllenllen Chetumal Sea Chíco 0 100 mi Bahía de la GUATEMALA BELIZE Ascensión 0 100 km

1 Cancún 4 Xcaret To Chetumal Airport Ferry route 2 Isla Mujeres 5 Xel-Ha Reef 3 Puerto Morelos Ruins 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 49

49 The Yucatán for ids and water go together like peanut butter and jelly. KAnd so the most basic secret to happy family travel, anywhere you venture in the Yucatán, is to give your children a daily dunk in the hotel pool or ocean waves. Here are a few other local attractions we’ve found to be especially child-friendly. START: Cancún (the RÍA LAGARTOS BIOSPHERE RESERVE Hotel Zone begins a few kilometers from the airport). Total trip: 80

km (49.5 miles). Families

Isla When you do things as a family Mujeres Travel Tip in Cancún, however, it usually For additional information on sights, begins with swimming. For watery shops, and recommended hotels and thrills and spills, consider Wet N’ Wild Parque Nizuc (Km 25, y 998/ e restaurants in Cancún, see Chapter 7; ibr a L on Isla Mujeres, see p 103. 881-3030, www.parquenizuc.com. id ) r oll Mé (T Admission $27 adults, $23 children ota Cu under 11. Open daily 10am–5:30pm. 1 = Cancún. Cancún is a Croco-Cun AE, MC, V), at the southern end of To Mérida (Toll) magnet for children of all ages, but the hotel zone. It’s a fun place a Cuot e Jardín Botánico all-inclusive hotels are the best fit where families can enjoy numerous br Li Tres Ríos Nature Park a for the young set—including pools, water slides, and rides. Visi- rid Mé teenagers, who seem to take the tors can also snorkel with manta “all you can eat” feature as a direct rays, tropical fish, and tame sharks. challenge. They also offer the chance to swim Many large hotels that cater to with dolphins through Dolphin families offer some form of “kids Discovery (y 998/849-4757, www. clubs.” For an extra fee, they will dolphindiscovery.com. Admission supervise and entertain children $135). Admission includes entry to during the day while their parents Wet N’ Wild, an educational intro- play. Frequently they offer evening duction, and a 30-minute swim. Xel-Ha Lagoon National Park babysitting services as well; ask The ubiquitous Jungle Tour, a about what’s available before you personal watercraft tour of the reserve.

Water fun in Playa del Carmen.

SIAN KA’AN BIOSPHERE RESERVE

Punta Allen 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 50

50 lagoon, is better for older youth. A all-inclusive entrance, $30 basic). 1 2 ⁄2-hour tour takes you into the Operated by the same people who

Tours lagoon and out to a shallow reef, run Xcaret, this park spills down from which includes some snorkeling. the road on several terraces to lovely Several marinas offer this tour; kids swimming beaches that offer snor- will enjoy the WaveRunner, which keling on a close-in reef. Other attrac- grants them their own vessel, tions in the park include restaurants, opposed to the trips that seat two a gift shop, kayaks, hammocks, people single file. tubes, and the exciting zip line ride The Folklore Museum appeals over the water.

Special-Interest to serious-natured children, and the You can also rent a golf cart, View Tower above it provides a from one of many vendors on the bird’s-eye view of this end of the island, and transport yourself to the island. A cheap boat trip would be lighthouse and Mayan ruin look- the car ferry, where kids can run out on the eastern tip. The Best around on the upper deck, from The best swimming beaches Punta Sam to Isla Mujeres. They can for children are Playa Lancheros, also see fish in the Aquarium, at La where you can buy lunch and swim Isla Mall, or eat fish sticks at the free, and the North Beach, which Rainforest Café, a kid-favorite is fairly shallow. Tweens and teens jungle-themed restaurant at Forum would enjoy a boat trip to the bird by the Sea shopping center, Km 9. sanctuary of Isla Contoy, which @ 2 days. includes snorkeling en route and a grilled fish lunch. Isla Mujeres is 13km (8 miles) off the coast of Cancún. Take the Take Highway 307 approximately Ultramar Ferry from either of two 25km (15.5 miles) south of Cancún. docks in Puerto Juárez (40 pesos), Turn left at the traffic light to reach north of Cancún’s downtown, or a the town of Puerto Morelos. catamaran from the hotel zone’s 3 = Puerto Morelos. The Embarcadero (about 150 pesos). sleepy village of Puerto Morelos, Reach the Juárez ferry from down- a half-hour south of Cancún, boasts town on any bus marked P. Juárez wonderful snorkel trips to its living or P. Sam, north of Tulum Ave. reef. Come into town to the main 2 = Isla Mujeres. The unhur- muelle (pier), and arrange for the 1 ried island of Isla Mujeres is a fun 1 ⁄2-hour trip. The reef—so precious ferry ride away from Cancún’s Hotel it garnered national park status—is Zone, Puerto Juárez, or even the car right offshore, so travel time from ferry from Punta Sam. You don’t need the pier is about 5 minutes each to take a car; park and continue on way. The rate is $25 per person, foot. The slow ride over allows kids to which includes a $5 park fee. see a lot from the upper deck, but the After donning life jackets, flip- sailing schedule is less frequent, with pers, mask, and snorkel, you’ll enter 8am, 11am, 2:45pm, 5:30pm, and the water to drift and swim over a 8:15pm departures. kaleidoscope of colors. Below you La Isla is a safe place to wander are giant brain coral, fantastic fans the streets or let kids play in the that wave in the current, and lots of water. The beaches at the north end fish—big and small, multicolored, are wide, and the water is shallow striped, electric blue, and more. and warm. But for an all-day excur- Have lunch at the Hotel Ojo de sion, choose Garrafón Park (y 998/ Agua’s beachside restaurant, on Av. 8777-1100; www.garrafon.com; $60 Rojo Gomez, or base your vacation 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 51

51 The Yucatán for in this family-friendly town at a small and hiking and mountain bike rides condominium complex such as Villas that especially appeal to older youth. Playasol (www.villasplaysol.com or Horseback riders of all abilities, www.villas-playasol.com) on the from age 6 and up, will enjoy the beach. American-owned Loma Bonita On the highway, 4km (2.5 miles) Ranch (y 998/887-5465; www. north of the Puerto Morelos traffic lomabonitamex.com), just south of

light, is CrocoCun (y 998/884- Puerto Morelos. Five-hour packages Families 4782), a zoo for big, ugly, prehistoric include 2 hours of riding through crocodiles and other native Yucate- the mangrove swamp to the beach, can animals. It offers interaction with where you can relax and swim. The crocs in all stages of development, cost is $72 for adults, $65 for chil- and the new Reptile House has many dren 6 to 12, including lunch, soft species of serpents, including rat- drinks, a guide, insurance, and a tlesnakes and boa constrictors that horse, of course. once roamed the local jungle. Kids Take Highway 307 2km (1.25 miles) will also like the creepy crawly taran- south of Playa del Carmen. tulas, frisky spider monkeys, and wild pigs. 4 = Xcaret. Unleash Mother 1 Less than half a kilometer ( ⁄3 mile) Nature on Disneyland and you’d get south of the traffic light, accessed something like Xcaret (pronounced from the far right lane, is a road ISH-car-et; y 998/883-0470; save under an arch known as the Ruta de 10% at www.xcaret.com). It has Cenotes, which leads to the Mayan something for everyone, and it’s a village of Centro Vallarta. Along it are guaranteed favorite among the jun- several cenotes, which charge a few ior set. The entrance to this eco- dollars admission for a dip, and the themed recreational park leads to a activity park Selvatura. This Costa small area with pink flamingos and Rican–inspired park features jungle brightly marked red, blue, yellow, zip lines—where you ride in a har- and green parrots. A series of wide ness along a steel wire from high palm- or jungle-lined paths meander platforms and trees above the forest away to the 25 different sights and floor. They also have a large cenote activities available.

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Walk straight ahead for the two river trips, which are a great way to

Tours start your day. The Underground River float is the most popular and the most crowded. Carved through limestone caverns illuminated by natural skylights, the cool-water river flows 6 meters below ground level. The Mayan Village River drifts along to the Mayan village, where

Special-Interest artisans create handicrafts. Several small waterfalls and a thick bamboo forest punctuate this journey. Xcaret offers several optional activities that are not included in the The Best all-inclusive price. Six programs to swim with dolphins—an experience Mexican marionettes in Cancún. of a lifetime—are aimed at both adults and children. After a short booths as soon as you arrive; spaces educational briefing, swimmers are limited. enter the water to pet and play with Other major attractions scattered the dolphins, culminating in a wild around the grounds are the Coral ride in which two dolphins lift the Reef Aquarium, several minor child from the water. archaeological sites, Jaguar Island, Snorkel and dive tours are avail- a reproduction Mexican graveyard able, as is Seatrek, which allows you decorated for Day of the Dead to walk on the bottom, and Snuba, celebrations, and the Mayan Village, which allows you to dive without a where you can watch artisans work tank. It’s good for non-swimmers. in various media, such as pottery Reserve in advance or visit the and paint. Kids who are into horses or riding Costumed performers at Xcaret ecopark. will dig the Mexican Charrería show in the afternoon, performed by cowboys and riders from the Mexican state of Jalisco. The Voladores de Papantla also has lots of kid appeal: Totonac Indians from Veracruz perform this death-defying, pre-Columbian ceremony on a pole high above the ground. No matter how cranky the kids are by late afternoon, don’t leave without seeing Xcaret Spectacular Night. Admission is included in the entrance fee. The spectacular is a full-blown show with 300 costumed performers tracing Mexico’s history and culture through music and dance. Wait until you see the burn- ing ball game—an ancient version of field hockey played with oil-soaked balls, struck with short sticks by 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 53

53 The Yucatán for young men in loin cloths. Wow! It’s Visitors swim and snorkel in clear still played by some indigenous water surrounded by thick jungle. peoples in Mexico. Buy an all-inclusive ticket (including Funky decorated buses provide meals) or you can rent snorkel equip- transportation from Cancún’s Xcaret ment for a comfortable float in the terminal on Kukulcán at Km 9; reser- calm, fish-filled water. A minitrain vations are not necessary but rec- delivers you to the beach.

ommended. The all-inclusive cost Other attractions here include a Families for a day, including transportation, plant nursery, an apiary for local is about $95 per adult, with an birds, hives of stingless Mayan bees, optional $25 Plus Package for a a turtle camp, and a lovely walking buffet lunch, and a $35 Dinner path along the lagoon. What kids love Package that provides a meal with best is the swim with dolphins at Dol- reserved seats for the evening show. phin’s World. It’s very popular, so Tickets for kids under 11 are about book it well in advance (y 998/883- 20% off. 0524; $115)—as soon as you arrive, if possible, especially if it’s crowded. Take Highway 307 18km (11 miles) Xel-Ha has always been one of the north of Tulum, 13km (8 miles) coast’s most treasured places. If it’s south of Akumal. not crowded, it’s well worth a few 5 = Xel-Ha. The clear-water hours or even a full day’s visit. But lagoons of Xel-Ha (Shell-HA)—which too many people in high season can means the place where the water significantly detract from the natural is born—are a subaquatic snorkel experience. paradise run by the managers of Do not wear sunscreen in the Xcaret, but on a more subdued water; wash it off first. It’s bad for the scale. The main attraction is snorkel- marine ecology. Safe sunscreen is ing the river and lagoon, often com- sold inside the park. y 998/884- bined with a visit to the Tulum ruins 9422. www.xel-ha.com. Admission just a few minutes away by car. $36–$70.

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54 The Pre-Columbian Yucatán

Tours Gulf of Mexico RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS Isla Contoy 0 50 mi BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE Isla Holbox Bird Sanctuary SANSAN FELIPEFELIPE RíoRí o LagartosLagartos RESERVERESERVE N NATURENATURE RESERVERESERVE 0 50 km 295 ProgresoProgreso TTizimínizimín CancúnCancún Isla MotulMotul 176 KantunilkinKantunilkin Mujeres HunucmáHunucmá MéridaMérida 1 CelestúnCelestún IIzamalzamal Ek Balam 180 RRÍAÍA 281 180 180 CELESTÚNCELESTCELESTÚN D PPlayalaya ddelel NAT’LNNATAT’L 261 180 WILDLIFEWILDLIFE YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN VValladolidalladolid CCarmenarmen REFUGEREFUGE 3 CChichénhichén 2 307 Isla de Special-Interest LOSLOS TiculTicul IItzátzá CobáCobá Cozumel PETENESPETENES UUxmalxmal 8 TTulumulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 180 TTekaxekax RESERVERESERVE 4 184 7 CCampecheampeche 261 295 307 HHopelchénopelchén FFelipeelipe CCarrilloarrillo PPuertouerto The Best 5 261 180 184 Caribbean EEdznádzná SIANSIAN Sea QQUINTANAU I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN ChampotónChampotón ROOR O O BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E 307 RESERVERESERVE

261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL 1 Ek Balam BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 2 Chichén Itzá RESERVERESERVE DDzibanchézibanché BacalarBacalar 186 BBecánecán XXpujilpujil CChetumalhetumal 3 Uxmal FranciscoFrancisco 6 BahBahíaBahía Banco4 Ruta Puuc EscárcegaEscárcega CChicannáhicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal Chinchorro KKohunlichohunlich 5 Edzná CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak CCalakmulalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 6 Forest of Kings RESERVERESERVE 7 Tulum BBELIZEE L I Z E 8 Cobá GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A

hree of the Yucatan’s five UNESCO World Heritage sites are TMaya ruins: Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and Calakmul. These sophisticated structures continue to dazzle, displaying the Mayas’ revolutionary innovations in astronomy, which helped them perfect an accurate calendar system and register annual solstices and equinox in their civic architecture; letters, making them the only indigenous people of the Americas with a written history—recorded in part in the stelae that still stand at some of the following sites; and architecture, which brought us numerous construction techniques still in use today, from corbel arches to honeycombed roofs. Most of the following ruin sites have accommodations nearby, as noted below, so you can start exploring first thing in the morning before the crowds descend. START: Ek Balam. Trip length: 1,200km (744 miles).

Ek Balam is 13km (8 miles) north Acropolis pyramid in 1999. What of the Cuota on the road from they found was an extraordinary, Valladolid to Tizimin. Chenes-style serpent-mouth entrance to an interior tomb that 1 Ek Balam. The compact “Black the Maya had carefully covered over Jaguar” ruin Ek Balam was consid- with dirt when they abandoned the ered a minor archaeological site city. It’s a magnificent work of art, until diggers unearthed the great 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 55

55 The with intricately carved figures. Other the sun for both equinoxes. The structures on-site are also intrigu- stairway’s shadow during the spring Pre-Columbian RÍA LAGARTOS ing, including La Rodonda, the oval equinox forms the shape of a ser- BIOSPHERE SAN FELIPE Rí o Lagartos RESERVE palace that seems to be made of pent, and thousands of people NATURE RESERVE stone drums. Enter the walled site come to celebrate. Progreso through a four-sided arch, which Although it’s often closed because Tizimín Cancún Motul Kantunilkin Hunucmá Mérida may have been a ceremonial entry of the sheer number of visitors, you Celestún Izamal from a scabe (sacred road) to the can first tour a pyramid beneath the RÍA CELESTÚN Playa del wealthy city. Ek Balam is a gem pyramid (it was a common Maya NAT’L

WILDLIFE Y U C A T ÁN Valladolid Carmen that’s rarely crowded. Stay in Val- practice to build over earlier build- Yucatán REFUGE Chichén ladolid or on-site at the appealingly ings). The entrance tunnel is at the LOS Ticul Itzá Cobá PETENES Uxmal Tulum rustic Genesis Retreat (y 998/ back entrance of the upper temple, BIOSPHERE Tekax RESERVE 852-7980; www.genesisretreat.com). open 11am to 1pm and from 4pm to 5pm. Inside, down a claustrophobic, Campeche 2 Chichén Itzá. Chichén Itzá, a hot, and very humid staircase, is a Hopelchén Felipe Carrillo Puerto half-hour drive west of Valladolid, chamber with a Chac Mool (see Edzná is the Yucatán’s most famous and SIAN below) statue and an altar known as Q U I N T A N A KA'AN perhaps most fabulous Maya ruin, Champotón BIOSPHERE the Throne of the Red Jaguar—a R O O despite the near-constant throng of C A M P E C H E RESERVE painted red altar inlaid with jade and admirers it attracts. Go early to avoid CALAKMUL bone teeth. BIOSPHERE the worst of the heat and crowds, In the largest Ball court in the RESERVE Dzibanché Bacalar and stay for the evening light show. Becán Americas, the Maya played a precur- Xpujil Chetumal The talk of the town is El Francisco Bahía sor of soccer and basketball to the Escárcega Chicanná de Chetumal Castillo (the castle), an imposing Kohunlich death. The acoustic properties ren- Xcalak pyramid that dominates its sur- CALAKMUL der a whisper audible from one end Calakmul BIOSPHERE roundings. The mathematically of the court to the other. The impos- RESERVE inclined Maya built it as a giant ing playing field has sloped sides B E L I Z E physical calendar—with 364 steps G U A T E M A L A and large stone rings that served as plus a platform on top and 52 pan- goal markers. On the southeast els on each side—and aligned it to

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56 Tours Special-Interest

Maya boys play among the ruined ancient city of Chichén Itzá. The Best corner, two temples, built one over The Caracol (Shell) is one of the other, are called the Temple of the most fascinating structures in the Jaguars. The lower one has a Chichén. Seen from afar, it looks wonderful carved mural of the city’s exactly like a modern celestial founding. The upper one, often off- observatory, which was probably its limits, has faded paintings that purpose. The rounded tower, built in depict triumphs in warfare. the middle of a two-level platform, is Death was obviously an integral unique in that, unlike other Mayan part of Mayan life, as demonstrated buildings, its entrances, staircases, by the Temple of Skulls, outside and angles are not aligned with one the ballcourt on the plaza, and the another. A staircase known as the Cenote of Sacrifice. An archaeologi- snail spirals up to a top level inside cal dive into the spectacularly deep- (closed to the public). The window walled cenote yielded bones of slots in the walls are aligned with sacrificial victims, including children. the sun’s equinoxes. In the main plaza, the Group of Stay overnight at the opulent a Thousand Columns and Temple Hotel Mayaland (y 985/851-0127; of Warriors are in a Toltec-Maya www.mayaland.com), with magnifi- style reminiscent of Greco-Roman cent garden grounds and king-size architecture. At the top of the War- riors Temple—where, alas, you can A carving at Chichén Itzá. no longer climb—is the famous stone Chac Mool altar. That’s the ubiquitous statue of a Mayan God, reclining with his hands cupped in a dish on his stomach, which was used to hold hearts ripped from live sacrifices. The Temple derives its name from the depictions of more than 200 warriors carved in columns in front of the entrance. The Group of a Thousand Columns, which once supported a roof to create colon- naded hallways and rooms, may have had more functional than ceremonial uses. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 57

57 The rooms just outside the back holes. It dates from around 800 A.D. entrance, or off-site on the highway and was part of a large, horseshoe- Pre-Columbian to the east at the economical motel, shaped complex. Dolores Alba (y 985/858-1555; A good way to see Uxmal is to www.doloresalba.com), which has arrive late in the day, stay overnight, bragging rights to a one-of-a-kind, and attend the 8pm light show (ask cenote-style swimming pool. for English headphones). You can use your ticket for re-entry the following 3 Uxmal. The grand ruins of Uxmal day, to see the ruins early, before it (pronounced Oosh-mahl) lie 80km

gets hot. Stay at the venerable Yucatán (49.5 miles) southeast of Mérida in the Hacienda Uxmal (y 997/976-2011; heart of a rich archaeological area www.mayaland.com), or in nearby that includes four other important Santa Elena at the lovely Flycatcher Mayan sites: Sayil, Kabah, Xlapak, Inn B&B (no phone; www.flycatcher and Labná. Uxmal’s rich geometric inn.com). stone facades are perhaps the most beautiful on the peninsula. As a ruin, it 4 Ruta Puuc. Puuc means hill rivals Chichén Itzá in grandeur. Unlike country, and so this route gets its Chichén, however, Uxmal features name from the tall hills to the north. two very large pyramids: the Pyramid A string of ruins south and east of of the Magician (aka Pyramid of the Uxmal make a rewarding minitour. Dwarf), an unusual oval-shaped pyra- You can also use them as a way to mid with massive rounded ends, built return to Mérida through small in layers over five earlier structures; Mayan villages and towns. Head and the humongous, partially south from Santa Elena to the nearby restored Great Pyramid. abandoned city, Kabah. Farther Other important buildings include south, turn left for the other Puuc the 70-odd-room Nunnery Quad- ruins; straight ahead leads to rangle, a four-building complex Campeche. Start: Uxmal. Trip: 31km named for its austere-looking living (19 miles). quarters. The exterior walls, built in the Puuc style with plain bottoms The steps of Uxmal. and elaborately decorated upper halves, feature marvelous carvings. The long, imposing Governor’s Palace is one of the Mayan world’s most beautiful buildings, set on a hill atop a platform and decorated with a mosaic lattice pattern facade with masks of Chac and other gods. The entire structure is aligned to Venus. The Mayan architects who built it also played on the principles of opti- cal illusion by making the two ends slightly lower than the middle. A perfectly straight roofline would have seemed to dip in the center when seen from one end. The amazing Dovecote, or House of Pigeons, is also a long building, crowned with nine triangu- lar crests with roofcombs of square 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 58

58 Ruta Puuc To Mérida 0 5 mi TeaboN Tours Ticul 0 5 km Uxmal 261 Santa Elena Oxkutzcab

LLoltúnoltún CCaveave Akil Kabah 4a

Special-Interest YUCATÁN CAMPECHE Tekax 4b 4c 261 Sayil Xlapak Labná Chacmultún The Best

B Kabah. The ancient city of (this is a very dry part of the Kabah lines both sides of the road- Yucatán). Sayil is also noted for its way, so you can’t miss it. Park right, many stone phalluses, carved long enter left. The most notable building before the invention of Viagra. We is the extraordinary Palace of recommend you skip the next ruin, Masks, named for its decorative Xlapak, 5km (3 miles) east, and motif: 250 elephant-nose masks of continue on to Labná. the rain god, Chac, blanket the exte- D Labná. The ruins of Labná are rior. On the other side of the road is best known for the magnificent cor- what’s left of the Great Temple and belled arch that was once part of a an arch through which a ceremonial more elaborate structure. It is the sacbe (road) connects with Uxmal. best-preserved arch portal in the C Sayil. Mayan for “place of Yucatán and gives a hint of how ants,” Sayil contains a massive mas- impressive these decorated arches terpiece of Mayan architecture, El were. On one side, see carvings of Palacio. Like a classical Greek build- najs, traditional Mayan houses still ing, El Palacio is simple and elegant found around the Yucatán today. in design, yet imposing in situ. The The large Puuc-style palace is simi- 90-room building stretches across lar to Sayil’s, but it’s not in equally three sweeping levels with a wide good condition. Check out the Chac central stairway. In front is a circular mask, with a carved head in its chultún, or catch basin for rainwater mouth.

Travel Tip the guide. To get back to Mérida, retrace your steps or follow signs If you’ve got the time, continue on 2 for 1km ( ⁄3 mile) to Oxkutzcab and the same road after Labná another then north to Ticul and Muna. 25km (15.5 miles) to the Loltún Caves, where artifacts of the Yucatán’s earliest human inhabitants 5 Edzná. The impressive ruins of have been found. It’s damp, dark, Edzná, one of our top three Mayan and close, but very interesting. Tip sites on the peninsula, are easily 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 59

59 The Plaza. The size of this open grass plaza, complete with an immense Pre-Columbian viewing stand, hints of Edzná’s importance as a Mayan ceremonial city. The structures on the Acropolis face inward to a smaller plaza that was designed so that sound would Loltún Cave echo off the buildings. And the

Pyramid of Five Stories is aligned Yucatán so that a straight line from its steps follows the line of the setting sun on August 13, the date when the Maya were purportedly created. Next to the Small Acropolis is the Temple of the Stone Masks, a smaller temple platform, dating to the pre-Classic era. Two huge stucco faces of the sun god, Kinich Ahau, flank the main stairway. The one fac- Labná tops a hill on the Ruta Puuc. ing east is a young face, representing dawn. The one facing west is an accessible from Campeche city old man, representing sunset. (40km/24.75 miles). It boasts a large Edzná is a great place to wander plaza called the Great Acropolis, around for an hour or two, with a which dominates the ruined city. guide or on your own. It’s all the Atop this massive platform are sev- more amazing when you consider eral pyramid structures; the most that there are more giant unexca- prominent is the Pyramid of Five vated ruins about 1km (less than a Stories. This pyramid commands a mile) away. See p 94 for hotel and panoramic vista of the expansive restaurants in Campeche. ceremonial grounds in the Great

A portal at Labná on the Ruta Puuc. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 60

60 6 Forest of Kings. A stunning straight road between Chetumal in array of Mayan ruins, strung like Quintana Roo and Escarcega in

Tours pearls along the border of Mexico, Campeche. Note: This is a tour for Belize, and Guatemala, are known adventurous travelers fascinated by collectively as the “Forest of Kings.” lost Maya cities. You can access them off the long

SSIANIAN Forest of Kings ToTo CancCCancúnancún KKA'ANA'AN 307 BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE QQUINTANAU I N T A N A RESERVERESERVE TToo CCampecheampeche ROOR O O CALAKMULCALAKMUL LLosos LLimonesimones CCAMPECHEA M P E C H E LázaroLázaro CCárdenasárdenas Special-Interest 261 BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE MajahualMajahual DDzibanchézibanché BacalarBacalar BBecánecán 186 186 XXpujilpujil 6a CChetumalhetumal FFranciscorancisco BahíaBahía EEscárcegascárcega ChicannáChicanná 6c 186 ddee CChetumalhetumal The Best 6b KKohunlichohunlich CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak CalakmulCalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 6d RESERVERESERVE

BELIZEB E L I Z E Caribbean GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A Sea 0 50 mi N Belize City 0 50 km

T Dzibanché. The first big ruins peninsula outside the town of Xpujil west of Chetumal are Dzibanché and (pronounced ish-poo-heel). Xpujil is neighboring Kinichná, two Classic- also a good base from which to era cities whose impressive buildings explore the Calakmul Biosphere and and isolation make a visit more like an Rio Bec ruins. Chicanna features a exploration. Dzibanché’s Main Plaza, cool, Chenes-style monster mouth part of a complex of three sprawling doorway. Becán, like a walled city open areas, is home to Structure II, with a moat, contains massive tow- a huge pyramid that housed a Mayan ers and an enclosed plaza. Xpujil lord’s tomb. It is one of the Maya boasts the Mayan equivalent of the world’s more memorable cities and Twin Towers. These are easy to shouldn’t be missed. reach from the roadway. U Kohunlich. The easy-to-reach W Calakmul. The international Kohunlich site is famous for its Clas- nature preserve of Calakmul Bio- sic-era structure known as Los Mas- sphere holds many ruins, notably carones (the masks), resplendent Calakmul and Rio Bec, a collection with stone faces that represent the of abandoned sites in the jungle ages of the sun. The masks date to that are difficult to access but well circa 500 A.D., although the build- worth the trouble. These are princi- ings show a mishmash of styles and pally for those with a die-hard inter- periods of occupation. Recent exca- est in archaeology and nature, or vations make a circuit of the site for anyone who wants to go where possible. few have gone before. It’s best to take a guide from Xpujil or, if you V Chicanná. The small ruins of speak Spanish, from the village of Chicanná, Becán, and Xpujil are all 20 de Noviembre. clustered about halfway across the 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 61

61 The covers 108 sq km (67 square miles). Until the rise of other large cities in Pre-Columbian about 1000 A.D., Cobá dominated the lowland Maya culture. It’s next to two lakes, which is rare in the Yucatán. Visitors come upon the structures in jungle clearings connected by wide paths dappled by shade from the forest. It’s a long walk between struc-

tures, so consider hiring a triciclo Yucatán (three-wheeled bicycle pedaled by a Maya) when it’s hot. You can do that after you visit the La Iglesia pyramid, not far from the entrance. Of the major sites, Cobá is the least recon- structed and may disappoint those The ruins of Becán against the clouds in who expect another Chichén Itzá. the Forest of Kings. Cobá does boast a steep, 42m- high (138-ft) pyramid, Nohoch Mul, 7 Tulum. Tulum ruin, 131km (81.25 which towers over the jungle. The miles) south of Cancún, is a walled site is also known for still- ceremonial city that the standing carved stelae, Maya still occupied scattered throughout when the Spanish the excavated areas. landed in 1517. Its Stay for dinner, and principal attraction is watch the sunset its location. The pyra- from the very pleas- mid of El Castillo ing Villas Arque- and the Temple of ológicas hotel on the the Wind sit atop a lake (y in US: 800/ bluff overlooking the A facial carving from Edzná 258-2633; $105 rate Caribbean Sea. A first- near Campeche. includes breakfast; AE, time visitor will be MC, V). stunned by the beautiful view over the water to the east. Tulum’s Mayan A facial carving at Kohunlich in the Forest name was Zama (place of the dawn), of Kings. for obvious reasons. Below the structures are some small horseshoe-shaped beaches, very popular with visitors who come to take a long swim after a short visit to the ruins. Climb down the new wooden stairs to the sandy shore. Try and visit early or late in the day. Tulum is the most heavily visited Mayan site in Mexico, and it can get hot and very crowded. See p 74 for other sites, hotels, and restaurants in Tulum. 8 Cobá. Directly inland from Tulum lies the expansive Mayan site Cobá, a relatively unexcavated city that 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 62

62 The Riviera Maya’s Best Spas Tours 1 Cancún Isla Airport Mujeres 2 Puerto Morelos Ferry route Punta Sam 3 Playa Maroma Reef Puerto Juárez Buenaventura Cancún 4 Playa del Carmen Ruins 1 Isla 5 Puerto Aventuras Kantunilkin re Lib Cancún 6 Tulum ida ) éridar Libre oll YUCATÁN MMérida Libre (T ota 180 CuotaCu (Toll) Gulf of Mexico 180 To Mérida Special-Interest Cancún D Mérida Croco-Cun YUCATÁN Puerto Morelos 2 Area of detail Jardín Botánico Isla de Tres Ríos Nature Park 3 Campeche QUINTANA Cozumel QUINTANA

The Best ROO ROO MÉRIDA LIBRE 307 Punta Maroma CAMPECHEMEX Caribbean 180 Chetumal Sea Playa del Carmen Punta Bete Chemax 4 0 100 mi F BELIZE Puerto Calica e GUATEMALA Xcaret rr Cruise Port y 0 100 km Paamul San Miguel Puerto Aventuras Fer 5 ry de Cozumel Cobá Xpu-Ha ISLA DE Akumal COZUMEL Xcacel Xel-Ha Lagoon National Park Tankah 0 10 mi CARIBBEAN N Tulum Azulik SEA 0 10 km ZamasTulum Cabañas Tulum307 6Ana y José

health-conscious, luxury spa vacation recommends itself in Athe Riviera Maya, given the region’s mind-bending beauty and the relaxing pace of Mexican life in general. And so it should come as no surprise that some splendid spas have opened recently. Most feature some sort of temazcal, the ancient Mayan equivalent of a sweat lodge, using herbal-infused waters. Many of Cancún’s better hotels also offer spas of various sizes and amenities. START: Cancún Hotel Zone, which begins 10km (6.5 miles) from the airport on Boulevard Kukulcán.

downtown Cancún, in the middle Travel Tip block of Av. Yaxchilán. Beyond the For additional information on sights, entrance to the hotel, where Mayan shops, and recommended hotels reliefs decorate the walls, this friendly, and restaurants in Cancún, see chap- intimate spa is set back by a lovely lit- ter 7; on Playa del Carmen, see p 121 tle pool and surrounded by tropical in chapter 6. gardens. Besides the standard spa amenities, Xbalamqué offers an unpretentious environment, a yoga 1 Cancún. Xbalamqué (Av. room, and a full-service beauty salon. Yaxchilan; y 998/884-9690; www. Aqua (Km 12.5. y in US: 800/ xbalamque.com) is a good value as a 343-7821, www.fiestaamericana. hotel or as a day spa. It’s located in com) has raised the bar for quality 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 63

63 The Riviera Maya’s Best accommodations, with a stunning, stylish, and sensual new hotel and spa. The turquoise-and-white-themed hotel was built for sophisticated travelers who appreciate chic decor, buzz, and the latest advances in hotel and spa services and amenities. The re intimate spa is among the hotel’s Lib ida ) r oll most notable attractions, with 12 Mé (T ota Cu therapy rooms offering a blend of Eastern, pre-Columbian, and Western Spas health and beauty treatments. Out- door Pilates, tai chi, and yoga classes are offered daily, and massage cabins are available on the beach. Be aware, A spa at the Fiesta Americana Resort in if you’re losing weight as part of your Cancún. regimen: The food served in Aqua’s restaurants is sublime and very hard hotel, which features the elegant Spa to resist. del Mar. The Spa of the Sea—a In the hotel zone, JW Marriott 1,393-square-meter (15,000-square- (Km 14.5; y 888/813-2776 in the ft.) sophisticated European-style facil- U.S., www.marriott.com) is impossi- ity—includes steam and inhalation ble to miss. One of Cancún’s premium rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, plunge resort hotels, it offers rejuvenating pools, Swiss showers, a waterfall spa treatments in a huge, 3,251- whirlpool, and 14 specialized treat- square-meter (35,000-square-ft.) ment rooms. It’s natural that a Mayan-inspired luxury spa facility, seaside spa like Meridien would spe- perched high above the sparkling cialize in hydrotherapy. The upper Caribbean Sea. In typical Marriott level houses a complete fitness cen- style, it affords guests a high-quality ter with extensive cardiovascular and health and fitness experience in weight machines. The relatively small Cancún’s largest private spa. hotel is refined and inviting, and The gorgeous Westin Resort guests feel immediately pampered, (Km 20; y 888/625-5144 in the U.S., long before they enter the spa. www.starwoodhotels.com), com- Take Highway 307 approximately pletely remodeled and re-styled in 25km (15.5 miles) south of Cancún. mid-2006, boasts Spa Nizuc, a well- known, full-service luxury spa facility. 2 Puerto Morelos. Ceiba del With strikingly austere architecture Mar (y 998/872-8060; www.ceiba and an impressive use of stone and delmar.com) is a small boutique marble, the Westin is one of the most hotel set on a bright white beach. elegant resorts in Cancún. The high- The holistic and aromatherapy spa’s class hotel spa emphasizes its signature treatment is a Top’ Nikte Yucatán inspirations with a signature massage (Mayan for cocoon). It massage treatment called Mayan begins with a 50-minute relaxing Mystic Massage. From its spa bed to massage, followed by a body wrap of its whirlpool bath, the Westin empha- soft cotton soaked in an infusion of sizes comfort and relaxation. aromatic herbs. While wrapped up, One of Cancún’s most appealing you receive a scalp treatment and a spas is Le Meridien (Km 14, y 800/ face massage. They also feature 543-4300 in U.S.; www.meridien Temazcal, an ancestral indigenous cancun.com.mx), also a Starwood ritual created to purify and renew 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 64

64 exclusive getaway destination—a frequent host to the wealthy and

Tours well known. Although Orient Express Hotels has recently expanded the number of rooms, the intimate Kinan Spa is still a good place to be touched by human hands. Kinan means “energy of the sun” in Mayan. Facing the sea in alleged astro-

Special-Interest logical harmony, the spa offers a variety of relaxing treatments. One that’s sure to stimulate and perhaps whet your appetite for more is the couples-only, “Aphrodisia Chocolate The Best Invigoration,” a very sensual chocolate massage. We’re excited just thinking about it. An outdoor massage at the Cancún Take Highway 307 for 70km (43.5 Meridien. miles) south of Cancún. the mind, body, and spirit. The 4 Playa del Carmen. A few steam in the sweat lodge is infused kilometers north of Playa, the with herbal aromatherapy. Mayakoba (y 800/257-7544 in U.S.; On the other hand, the steam www.fairmont.com) is a new super room at Desire Resort (y 998/872- luxury resort in the exclusive Fair- 8293; www.desirecancun.com) mont chain of worldwide hotels. can get a little, er, steamy. Desire The best of their properties features a exemplifies one of the hottest new “Willow Stream Spa,” renowned for concepts in hotels—an all-inclusive, the beauty of its natural setting and hedonistic lifestyle resort and spa. for its pampering treatments. The The adults-only, couples-only hotel is Mayakoba claims its spa was inspired clothing optional, except in public by local Mayan healing traditions places such as the dining room. using indigenous plants and herbs. Among their traditional spa offerings, They’re also sensitive to sore muscles our favorite, the hot stone massage, or sore feelings from too much golf at which uses heated smooth stones to the hotel’s challenging course. impart deep heat therapy. It was a A pleasing day spa in the center good way to loosen the tight muscles of downtown Playa del Carmen, the brought upon us by sucking in our serene Spa Itzá (y 984/803-2588; stomachs all the time. It’s a very pop- www.spaitza.com) is located in a ular resort among those who are secluded garden in the Calle Corazon comfortable in their own skin. district on 12th Street, just off 5th Avenue. Their array of massages Take Highway 307 approximately includes shiatsu, floor massage, 50km (31 miles) south of Cancún. deep tissue, lymphatic drainage, and 3 Playa Maroma. The stunning their “Itzá Special,” which blends beach at Playa Maroma, south of deep tissue, Swedish, and shiatsu Puerto Morelos, is home to the points. Maroma Hotel (y 998/872-8200; The Royal Hideaway (y 800/ www.orientexpresshotels.com). 999-9182 in U.S., www.royalhide The Maroma has always been an away.com) is an all-inclusive resort on 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 65

65 The Riviera Maya’s Best a great beach in Playacar, an exclusive The rustic spa center also features planned community just to the south a Temozcal, a unique Mayan sweat of downtown Playa del Carmen. Their lodge ceremony that purges the body beauty salon and spa offers French- of noxious toxins using hot rocks and trained aestheticians to consult on aromatherapy steam. Best of all: They skin care and a variety of indulgences offer a lucid dreaming course and a such as Swedish massages. flotation chamber. What a trip. Excuse me while I kiss the sky. Take Highway 307 approximately A pioneering hideaway, 7km (4.25 104km (64.5 miles) south of miles) down the Boca Paila Road, is Cancún. the famous Ana y José Hotel & Spas 5 Puerto Aventuras. The “Port Spa (y 998/887-5470, www.anay of Adventures,” Puerto Aventuras, jose.com). This beautiful bungalow features a unique, water-inspired beachfront hotel was one of the first spa, aptly named Casa del Agua hostelries on the edge of the Sian (y 713/589-5697 in U.S.; www.casa Ka’an Biosphere, a protected nature delagua.com). Originally built as a lux- reserve. Originally offering isolated urious private beachfront home, the rustic cabañas and a small eatery, “Water House” features four intimate the hotel now features modern B&B suites as well as complete day- rooms without sacrificing the sense spa services. Book a room in this that you’ve gotten away from it all. tropical paradise villa or rent it in its Over the years, Ana y José contin- entirety for the utmost privacy. All ued to grow with the demand and individualized spa services are by now features the Om Spa as part of appointment only; schedule them their amenities. As if the idyllic set- prior to your arrival and receive a 10% ting isn’t relaxing enough, guests discount. Although it’s not a new can enjoy spa therapies such as wrinkle in skin care, we especially like their “Mayan Health Treatment.” to get wrapped up in seaweed and This unique offering features a relax- packed in rainforest mud. ing massage using clay mud from a cenote, followed by a fruit body Take Highway 307 approximately wrap. As part of the mystique, they 80.5 miles (130km) south of burn copal incense, which the Maya Cancún. use in religious ceremonies. 6 Tulum. Along the incredible beaches in Tulum, Maya Spa Well- ness Center (y 877/532-6737 in Mud facials are a popular spa treatment U.S.; www.maya-spa.com), is a holis- in the Yucatán. tic spa in idyllic surroundings. Rustic, tropical cabaña accommodations are available through its affiliated EcoTu- lum hotels: Cabanas Copal, Azulik, and Zahra. They are all clothing optional. The Maya Spa’s holistic activities program features yoga exercises, Mayan astrology, corn readings, crystal therapies, and a variety of treatments performed by people who claim to be local shamans. The herbal treatments prepared by the healers use indigenous plants. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 66

66 The Yucatán for Birdwatchers Tours

RÍARÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS IslaIsla ContoyContoy GulfG u l f ofo f BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE BirdBird SSanctuaryanctuary 3 MexicoM e x i c o SANSAN FFELIPEELIPE RíoRío RESERVERESERVE NATURENATURE RRESERVEESERVE LagartosLagartos IslaIsla HHolboxolbox

ProgresoProgreso 295 TizimTTizimínizimín CancCCancúnancún MotulMotul 176 HunucmáHunucmHunucmá MMéridaérridaida KantunilkinKantunilkin 1 180 PuertoPuerto CelestúnCelestCelestún IzamalIzamal 295 MorelosMorelos Special-Interest 281 RRÍAÍA 180 180 CELESTÚNCELESTCELESTÚN D PlayaPlaya deldel 4 NNAT’LNATAT’L 261 180 ValladolidValladolid CarmenCarmen WWILDLIFEILDLIFE ChichCChichénhichén REFUGEREFUGE 2 307 IslaIsla ddee TiculTicul ItzIItzátzá CozumelCozumel LOSLOS YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN CobCCobáobá PETENESPETENES UxmalUxmal TulumTulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE The Best 180 Xel-HaXel-Ha LagoonLagoon RESERVERESERVE TekaxTekax 184 NationalNational PParkark 307 CampecheCampeche 261 295 FelipeFelipe HopelchHHopelchénopelchén 5 PuntaPunta AllenAllen 261 CarrilloCarrillo 180 PuertoPuerto BahBBahíaahía dede lala AAscensiAscensiónscensión EdznEEdznádzná 184 SIANSIAN ChampotónCChampothampotón BahíaBBahahía deldel QQUINTANAU I N T A N A KA'ANKA'AN EspírituEspEspírituritu SantoSanto ROOR O O BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E 307 RESERVERESERVE

261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL 6 BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE DzibanchDDzibanchézibanché BacalarBacalar 186 BBecánBececán XXpujilpujil ChetumalChetumal FranciscoFrancisco BahíaBahBahía BancoBanco EscárcegaEscEscárcegarcega ChicannCChicannáhicanná 186 dede ChetumalChetumal ChinchorroChinchorro KohunlichKohunlich CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak CCalakmulalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE

BelizeBelize CityCity TurneffeTurneffe GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A BelmopanBelmopan IslandsIslands

BBELIZEE L I Z E FloresFlores CaribbeanC a r i b b e a n SeaS e a

0 50 mi N 0 50 km GulfGulf ofof HondurasHonduras Maya archaeological site Cuota (toll highway) HHONDURASO N D U R A S

1 Celestún 4 Puerto Morelos 2 Chichén Itzá 5 Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve 3 Ría Lagartos 6 Lake Bacalar Biosphere Reserve 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 67

67 The Yucatán for on’t leave home without binoculars, especially if you’re Dvisiting the Yucatán in winter. Nearly 130 North American bird species find warm refuge on the peninsula each year when the mer- RÍA LAGARTOS Isla Contoy G u l f o f BIOSPHERE Bird Sanctuary cury drops back home. They join the 54 species of migratory birds M e x i c o SAN FELIPE Río RESERVE NATURE RESERVE Lagartos Isla Holbox who pass through in spring and fall, and the 537 species that feather their nests in the Yucatán year-round (including 14 species and about

Progreso 100 subspecies found no place else on Earth). Their songs and brilliant Birdwatchers Tizimín Cancún Motul colors are especially dazzling en masse during the annual winter Hunucmá Mérida Kantunilkin Puerto Yucatán Bird Festival (www.Yucatanbirds.org.mx). START: Celestún. Celestún Izamal Morelos RÍA Total length: approximately 700km (434 miles). CELESTÚN Playa del NAT’L Valladolid Carmen WILDLIFE Chichén REFUGE Isla de 1 Ticul Itzá Cozumel About 1 ⁄2 hour’s drive west of LOS Y U C A T ÁN Cobá PETENES Uxmal Tulum Mérida at the end of Route 281. BIOSPHERE RESERVE Xel-Ha Lagoon Tekax National Park 1 Celestún. The shallow, pro- Campeche tected lagoons of Celestún are home Felipe Hopelchén Carrillo Punta Allen to thousands of pink flamingos and Puerto Bahía de la Ascensión other water birds such as frigates, Edzná SIAN Bahía del snowy egrets, herons, and countless Champotón KA'AN Q U I N T A N A Espíritu Santo migratory birds. Guides take visitors R O O BIOSPHERE C A M P E C H E RESERVE by launch into the long lagoons to

CALAKMUL watch flocks feed on tiny pink shrimp. BIOSPHERE RESERVE Take Highway 180 for 192km (119 Dzibanché Bacalar Becán Xpujil Chetumal miles) west of Cancún. Francisco Bahía Banco Escárcega Chicanná de Chetumal Chinchorro 2 Chichén Itzá. The scrub brush Kohunlich and lowland forest near the Mayan CALAKMUL Xcalak Calakmul BIOSPHERE ruins of Chichén Itzá attract song- RESERVE birds to what seems like every tree. This rural agricultural area in the middle of the peninsula has lots of

Belize City trails and back roads to explore for Turneffe the best spot. G U A T E M A L A Belmopan Islands Approximately 105km (65 miles) Blue and gold macaws. north of Valladolid at the end of B E L I Z E Flores C a r i b b e a n Route 296. provide migratory and indigenous S e a birds with everything they need for 3 Ría Lagartos Biosphere survival. As development increases Reserve. A sister site to Celestún is along the coast, this may be one of Ría Lagartos, home to thousands their last refuges of virgin forest. more pink flamingos and water birds. Gulf of Combine your trip here with a visit Honduras A boat trip traverses several long, to the Croco-Cun crocodile farm, open lagoons where flamingos flock. for a full day’s worth of nature. Cleared cattle ranch land also allows H O N D U R A S for good viewing on the way there. Muyil is a little-visited archaeological ruin on the edge of the Approximately 25km (15.5 miles) biosphere, about 20 minutes south of Cancún on Highway 307. south of Tulum on Highway 307. 4 Puerto Morelos. The Botani- The living village is on the right, cal Gardens at Puerto Morelos just north of the ruins. 08_081198 ch04.qxp 1/10/07 6:02 PM Page 68

68 Tours Special-Interest The Best

A flock of flamingoes in Ría Lagartos.

5 Sian Ka’an Biosphere the Chacchoben ruins from Route Reserve. You don’t necessarily need 293 northwest from Limones on to enter Sian Ka’an, down the Boca Highway 307. Paila Road, for views of its feathered 6 Lake Bacalar. The cenotes and inhabitants. The archaeological zone ponds near Lake Bacalar, Lagoon of of Muyil is ideal, and there are good Seven Colors, are popular with birds local bird guides in the village of and birdwatchers, both of whom Chunyaxché across the road. Wear flock here for the good mix of forest insect repellant. For more information and clearings. The Chacchoben on Sian Ka’an, see p 46. Maya ruins, a little-visited inland site Lake Bacalar is approximately about a half-hour from the Lake, are 242km (150 miles) south of Cancún also popular. on Highway 307. You can access

Birds Found Only in Yucatán

These 14 bird species are endemic to the Yucatán. See them while you’re here, because you won’t find them anywhere else on the planet: the black catbird, Cozumel emerald, Cozumel vireo, Cozumel thrasher, ocellated turkey, orange oriole, red-vented woodpecker, rose-throated tanager, yellow-lored (Yucatán) parrot, Yucatán poor- will, Yucatán nightjar, Yucatán flycatcher, Yucatán jay, and the Yucatán wren. For more information on feathered friends in the region, order any of the several books on birds of the Yucatán by Barbara MacKin- non, published by Amigos de Sian Ka’an (y 998/848-2136; www. amigosdesiankaan.org; $2–$25). From the home page, click Publica- tions, then Other Publications, and scroll down. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 69

The Best Regional 5 Tours 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 70

70 The Riviera Maya Tours 1 Isla Mujeres 5 Oscar y Lalo IslaIsla (Playa Soliman) Airport MujeresMujeres 2 Cancún Ferry route PuntaPunta SamSam 1 6 Cozumel 3 Puerto Morelos Reef PuertoPuerto JuárezJuJuárezrez Ferry Buenaventura 7 Tulum CancCCancúnancún 4 Playa del Ruins 2

Regional Carmen Isla Kantunilkin re Lib Cancún ida ) Gulf of Mexico éridar Libre oll YUCATÁN MMérida Libre (T Cancún ota Mérida CuotaCu (Toll) 180 180 YUCATÁN ToTo MMéridaéridarida D

The Best Area of detail Croco-CunCroco-Cun Isla de PuertoPuerto MorelosMorelos 3 Campeche QUINTANA Cozumel JardJJardínardín BotánicoBBototániconico ROO TresTres RRíosíooss NNatureature PParkark CAMPECHE Caribbean QUINTANA Chetumal MÉRIDA LIBRE Sea ROO Punta Maroma MEX 307 180 0 100 mi GUATEMALA BELIZE PlayaPlaya deldel CarmenCarmen Punta Bete Chemax 0 100 km 4 Fe XcaretXcaret rr PuertoPuerto CCalicaalica CCruiseruise PPortort y PaamulPaamul SanSan MiguelMiguel F PuertoPuerto AventurasAventuras erry dede CozumelCozumel Cobá Xpu-HaXpu-Ha 6 AkumalAkumal ISLAISLA DEDE COZUMELCOZUMEL XcacelXcacel Xel-HaXel-Ha LLagoonagoon NationalNational PParkark TankahTankah 5 0 10 mi CARIBBEAN N TulumTulum Azulik SEA 0 10 km ZamasTulum Cabañas Tulum307 7Ana y José

he Riviera Maya’s wandering shoreline begins in Cancún and Truns along the azure Caribbean Sea south to Tulum. These are some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, with warm blue waters and white sand never hot to the touch. Although all-inclusive resorts are intruding on formerly isolated shores, beach lovers can still find paradise in smaller boutique hotels. START: Isla Mujeres. Total trip: 140 km (86.75 miles).

(1.75 miles) to Punta Sam ferry. A Note on Hotels & Better yet, ditch the car and take Restaurants either ferry from Puerto Juárez, For additional information on sights, 1km before Punta Sam. Catch any shops, and recommended hotels bus marked “Puerto Juárez” from and restaurants in Isla Mujeres, Av. Tulum downtown. see p 102; in Playa del Carmen, see 1 Isla Mujeres. The tiny, pictur- p 120; in Cozumel, see p 96; and esque island of Isla Mujeres (Island in Cancún, see Chapter 7. of Women) is visible from Cancún’s shore, inviting visitors to try a From Cancún, Take Av. Bonhampak change of pace from resort-style north from Kukulcán Blvd. and turn hustle and bustle. A fishing village, right on Av. Lopéz Portillo, 3km La Isla is much more relaxed; streets Previous page: A burro in traditional gear. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 71

71 The are cobblestone; buildings, often whitewashed, are limited to three Riviera Maya stories; and the fewer number of for- Isla Mujeres mal activities and people means less Punta Sam comes between you and the beach. Puerto Juárez Cancún It’s a popular day trip from Can- cún, just a quick boat or ferry ride re away, but you can also choose this Lib ida ) r oll Caribbean-style destination as a Mé (T ota Cu vacation in itself. The island is known To Mérida for its endearing hospitality, and Croco-Cun accommodations vary from rustic to Puerto Morelos Jardín Botánico posh-boutique. Many visitors arrive Tres Ríos Nature Park from Cancún’s hotel zone on catamaran boats from Playa Linda, but we prefer the less expensive people fer- Playa del Carmen ries that run regularly from Puerto Xcaret Juárez, just north of downtown. Garrafón Natural Reef Park on Isla de Puerto Calica Cruise Port Isla Mujeres is well known for its Mujeres. Paamul San Miguel snorkeling, sunbathing on powdery Puerto Aventuras de Cozumel Xpu-Ha white beaches, and swimming. Gift, of its ideal weather, clear blue jewelry, and beachwear shops rub Akumal ISLA DE waters, and fine white beaches. It’s COZUMEL Xcacel shoulders along cobblestone streets a near-perfect place to shake off the Xel-Ha Lagoon National Park with economical ethnic and seafood winter blues and chill—and indulge Tankah restaurants. The downtown is made in red-hot nightlife or escapist Tulum for exploration on foot, but rental downtime. With so many easy day golf carts and motorbikes are the trips nearby, and myriad shopping, preferred way to see the rest of the dining, and nightlife options, you’ll island. The southern and western never want for something to do. shores are home to Garrafón Nat- Unlike other Mexican beach ural Reef Park, the pirate towns, Cancún is a relatively new Mundaca’s ruined hacienda, a turtle vacation destination, but it has research center, a swim with dol- developed quickly since the late phins, dramatic cliffs with a Mayan 1970s because of its sand, sun, ruin at the tip, and a lighthouse. The and proximity to the United States. northern and western beaches (New York, for example, is less than 1 afford the best swimming and spec- 3 ⁄2 hours away by plane.) tacular sunsets, while the rough and Cancún’s downtown is vibrant, rocky Caribbean shoreline to the east attracting shoppers, diners, and is perfect for shell collecting. budget-conscious travelers, but the La Isla is our personal favorite, Hotel Zone is what everyone refers for its absence of high-rise hotels, to when they say “Cancún.” Located a compact downtown, and water, on a 27km-long (16.75-mile), pencil- water everywhere. thin island shaped like a figure 7, the Hotel Zone has everything a tourist Take the car ferry back to Punta could want from a resort. Sam, just north of the people ferry Sprinkled along the line of big at Puerto Juárez, and drive 7km resort hotels are smaller, more inti- (4.25 miles) to downtown Cancún. mate accommodations, gourmet 2 Cancún. Mexico’s most popular restaurants, nightclubs and bars with resort city continues to draw hordes live entertainment, stuffed-to-the- of year-round vacationers because gills shopping malls, world-class golf 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 72

courses, marinas offering multiple watersports, and, of course, gor-

Tours geous beaches. The Isla Mujeres Bay beaches on the short side of the figure 7 are calmer, with swimming in warm, protected waters. Facing the Caribbean, beaches are dramatically Regional beautiful—check out Playa Delfines at Km 17, for instance—but they’re sometimes bashed by heavy surf. The Hotel Zone can serve as your

The Best sole destination, but some visitors use it as a base to explore more of the Yucatán and Riviera Maya, taking any of the many day trips available. See p 134. Drive south from Cancún, 36km A palapa on the beach at the Westin (22 miles) on Highway 307, and Resort & Spa in Cancún. turn left at the traffic light, 3km 4 (1.75 miles) to the square. Playa del Carmen. If an urban, somewhat bohemian beach 3 Puerto Morelos. If the high- destination with lots of people to play energy atmosphere of Cancún or with sounds like fun, join the many Playa isn’t for you, then Puerto Europeans and North Americans that Morelos is worth a visit. This small, pack the city of Playa del Carmen fishing-village-turned-bedroom-com- on the Riviera Maya coast. Playa, as munity attracts low-key tourists who it’s affectionately known, is the “in” don’t need to be spoon-fed their place for shopping, dining, people- pleasures. watching, and more shopping. Life Just a few hundred yards off the centers around Fifth Avenue, Mexico- broad white beach is an underwater style. Oh yeah, there’s also a gor- marine park, with a colorful coral geous beach somewhere beneath all reef and a large variety of curious those tanned bodies. fish. We think the snorkeling here Just a dozen years ago, Playa is as good, if not better, than at was best known as the departure some of the more famous spots on point for the ferry to Cozumel, only Cozumel. Another attraction for 19km (11.75 miles) across the chan- active tourists is the wind and kite nel. A few hotels, some shops, and surfing conditions. Inside the reef’s a couple of restaurants filled the protected waters, windsurfers zip needs of its transient visitors. Then, along the waves at thrilling speeds. somebody noticed its gorgeous The town of Puerto Morelos beach, reef for snorkeling, and offers visitors diverse accommoda- turquoise waters, and wondered tions: rustic wooden cabañas facing why bother to go anywhere else? the mangroves, a fabulous luxury Phenomenal growth followed. beachfront spa, modern hotels, Today, Playa is a large city with a beachfront condos, and apartments myriad of hotels, restaurants, and and private homes available for a shops selling everything from fun week or longer. junk to fine jewelry. The main drag, Take Highway 307 for 32km (19.75 Fifth Avenue, runs over a kilometer in miles) south to Playa del Carmen. length along the beach and is packed with people, day and night. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 73

73 The A vacation in Playa appeals to 6 Cozumel. Cozumel ranks among travelers who are young or young at the top five dive destinations in the Riviera Maya heart who want to soak up sun, suds, world, given the towering reefs that and the social scene. Day-trippers or line its southwest shore. The down- overnight visitors appreciate the town gets crowded during the day multinational food selection and with cruise-ship passengers cruising shopping options. other cruise-ship passengers, but the About halfway down the Riviera mornings and evenings belong to Maya coast, Playa is well situated for locals and island guests. archaeological excursions or day trips Only 6% of Cozumel is devel- to places such as nearby Xcaret. oped, principally around the island’s But for unique, off-track “ecological” only town, San Miguel. The eastern, tours in the jungle and the coast, try windward side and northern shore Playa’s Alltournative (Av. 5 between are virtually uninhabited; the south- 12/14; www.alltournative.com; ern leeward coast, facing west, fea- y 984/873-2036). tures occasional beach clubs and some all-inclusive hotels. Visitors get a taste of Cozumel’s Oscar y Lalo’s Restaurant. 5 warm and cozy character as soon as One of the last places for lunch on they descend from the ferry. The a deserted beach, with no other Main Plaza and adjacent side streets buildings in sight, is Oscar y Lalo’s are full of gift and flea market shops Restaurant on Playa Soliman, Km peddling handicrafts, beachwear, 241.5, south of Playa del Carmen. and souvenirs; restaurants with Swim in the sea or their cenote, tempting dining pleasures; and snooze in a hammock, snorkel the some economy hotels that cater reef, sea kayak, or just hang out— to divers. Av. Melgar is the major for free. The beer is cold, and the north/south road paralleling the fish is fresh, prepared as you like it. harbor. Several popular jewelry and diamond shops and the original Los Ditch the car and take the people Cinco Sols gifts can be found there. ferry from Playa to Cozumel. Long- Farther north leads to the interna- term vacationers can send their tional airport and the Cozumel car via the ferry at Puerto Calica, Country Club golf course (www. 14km (8.7 miles) south of Playa. cozumelcountryclub.com.mx).

A golden iguana at Laguna Chankanab National Park in Cozumel. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 74

74 new airport and a new road to the beach are fueling rapid development.

Tours The ruins of the walled city of Tulum preside over a tall bluff above the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. It’s Mexico’s most visited archaeological site. Busloads Regional upon busloads of cruise passengers and tours from Cancún, Playa, and the Riviera Maya make an intimate visit difficult, but it’s still worth seeing.

The Best Tulum looks its best early in the morning or late afternoon, when it’s not as hot, sunny, or crowded. Stand on the edge of the cliff (you can no longer climb the pyramid) and look over the ocean to feel the awe the An Olmec head in Chankanaab Natural ancient Maya must have felt at the Park in Cozumel. world’s beauty. Bring a swimsuit to cool off on the beach below. For Take a taxi to Chankanaab Park for detailed information on Tulum’s a day of snorkeling, picnicking, and ruins, see p 61. swimming with dolphins, or choose The Boca Paila Road, which one of the swimming beaches south runs along the shore into the Sian of town and spend a day in the sun. Ka’an Biosphere, has sprouted hotels Divers and open water snorkelers like coconut palms trees along its have ample choice of approved tour white sand. It’s a beachcomber providers. But whatever you do, don’t favorite, and although the beaches miss a drive around the entire island; are no longer deserted, you can still the windward side is wildly fascinat- find pockets of paradise and some ing with a few fish restaurants right lonely stretches. Accommodations on the beach. Rent a car or motor- range from rustic, sand-floor cabañas bike to drive the loop road around the to small luxury hotels, and several southern part of the island. enticing beach shack eateries are Visitors can fly here directly, perfect for long lunches or romantic connect in Cancún, or take the dinners. No matter where you stay, half-hour ferry ride from Playa, men- electricity turns off at 11pm. tioned earlier. Beachfront at the Occidental Grande Take Highway 307 for 63km (39 in Cozumel. miles) south to Tulum. 7 Tulum. When people talk of Tulum, they may be speaking of any of its three distinct areas: the pueblo on the highway, the ruined Mayan city at the edge of town, or the beaches along the Boca Paila Road. Tulum pueblo doesn’t have much besides some worthwhile restaurants and economy hotels, but it’s close enough to the beach (3km/1.75 miles) to attract budget-minded travelers. A 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 75

75 Where to Where to Stay & Dine

Ana y José TULUM MEXICAN Pelícanos PUERTO MORELOS Stay & Dine This landmark hotel and restaurant SEAFOOD You can’t beat this infor- has just improved with age. It has mal, mostly seafood restaurant’s lured travelers down the Boca Paila location on a covered dining patio Road, toward the Sian Ka’an Bio- overlooking the beach and fishing sphere, with rustic and luxury accom- pier—especially when it’s hot and the modations, a fine white-sand beach, sea breeze is up. While it’s not always and a Mexican restaurant. Even locally caught mariscos, everything though it has a small pool with a they serve is well prepared and tasty. waterfall and candlelit al fresco din- If you want a change from fish, walk ing, Ana y José’s is best known for across the street and upstairs to Hola its quiet privacy and gorgeous Asia, an Asian restaurant that offers beach. Boca Paila Road. y 984/ generous platters of Asian-style food 871-2477. www.anayjose.com. such as General Tso’s Chicken. On the 22 units. Doubles $183–$293. corner of Square and the beach. No Entrees $12–$55. MC, V. Restaurant phone. Entrees $6–$12. MC, V. Open daily 7am–11pm. Also see p 65. daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Bodos PUERTO MORELOS INTERNA- Zamas TULUM SEAFOOD One of TIONAL/SEAFOOD The world is so the most popular cabaña hotels small these days, it’s hardly surprising along the Tulum’s white powder to find a fabulous little German beaches, Zamas offers romantic, restaurant in a Mexican beach town. beachfront accommodations in With linen-covered wood tables in an rustic but cute palapa bungalows air-conditioned storefront, Bodos spread along a rocky beach. Qué menu shines with such delicious Fresco is their renowned seafood dishes as Weiner schnitzel and other restaurant. Zamas and other Boca European specialties. Plus there’s Paila Road hotels turn the electricity always fresh fish, shrimp, or lobster off at 11pm when the sky lights up on the menu. Av. Niños Heroes. with stars. Boca Paila Road. y 984/ y 998/871-0232. www.hotelbodos. 877-8523. www.zamas.com. Beach- com. Main courses $9–$18. No credit front $110–$150, ocean view $180, cards. Open Thurs–Tues 2pm–10pm. garden $120–$145. No credit cards.

Ceiba del Mar PUERTO MORELOS Mariachis in Playa del Carmen. INTERNATIONAL The large, well- appointed rooms here are in three- story palapa-roofed white buildings trimmed in natural wood. Each features a balcony or terrace facing the beach. Ceiba boasts a free-form infinity pool and two quality restaurants. They offer complete luxury spa facilities including a temezcal (Mayan sweat lodge) and separate his and hers spa sections with Jacuzzis. North Road, 1.5 km. y 877/545-6221 in the U.S. or 998/872-8060. www.ceiba delmar.com. Doubles $400, penthouse suite $1,250. AE, MC, V. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 76

76 The Central Yucatán Tours

Gulf of Mexico Río Lagartos Las Coloradas 3 RRÍAÍA LAGARTOSLAGARTOS San Felipe BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RRESERVEESERVE El Cuyo SANSAN FFELIPEELIPE NATURENATURE RRESERVEESERVE Regional Dzilam Telchac de Bravo Puerto Panabá 172 Dzidzantún 295 Colonia Buctzotz Yucatán

The Best Cansahcab Temax 176 Sucilá 176 TizimTTizimínizimín MotulMotul YUCATÁN Kantunilkin Espita Calotmul Popolnah Cenotillo IzamalIzamal Tunkás 295 EkEk BalamBalam ToTo CancCCancúnancún ) ToTo MMéridaérridaida IItzamnáItzamntzamná 2 OLL TA (T Dzitás CUO Nuevo 180 Temozón 180 RE Hocabá 180 CUOTACUO (TOLL) Tinum IB X-Can X-Can D TA (TO D L LL) DA ValladolidValladolid RRIDAI LIBRE M É Pisté É 1 MMÉRIDA LIBRE 180 RID A LIBRE Chemax ChichCChichén-Itzáhichénn-Itz-Itzá 4 Chichimilá Sotuta Cuncunul QUINTANA Tekom ROO Chankom Tixcacalcupul Yaxcabá YaxunYYaxunáaxuná CobCCobáobá 295 Teabo

cab 1 Valladolid 3 Río Lagartos 0 20 mi Xel-Ha ave 2 Ek Balam 4 Chichén Itzá N Tulum 0 20 km Tekax MEX ú Peto San José ust 2 hours away from Cancún’s airport—but a world away Jfrom pre-packaged vacations—the center of the Yucatán peninsula offers travelers a chance to explore ancient Mayan ruins, Spanish Colonial–era history, ecotourism opportunities, and a town that time forgot. It’s ideal for a short tour when you have a week or less. START: Cancún. Total trip: 296km (183.5 miles) from Cancún.

1 Valladolid. Colonial and Travel Tip quaint, Valladolid is an important For additional information on sights, city about halfway between Cancún shops, and recommended hotels and and Mérida. It played a central role restaurants in Valladolid, see p 124. in the history of the Yucatán, first as the Mayan city of Zací, conquered by Conquistadors, and then during Take the Cuota toll road from the bloody Caste War of the 1800s, Cancún, just south of the airport when the Maya revolted against entrance on Highway 307, or their Yucatecan oppressors and follow Av. Lopéz Portillo west sacked the city. from downtown until it becomes These days it makes an interest- the Merida Libre, Highway 180, ing, quick stop on the way to the a slow road through Mayan Mayan ruins, or a rewarding base for villages. Valladolid is 152km traveling in the Central Yucatán. (94.25 miles) from Cancún. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 77

77 The the oldest Spanish-built buildings in the Yucatán. Inside the church are Central some surviving 16th-century wall paintings next to the altar, and a RÍA LAGARTOS pleasant monastic garden on the BIOSPHERE RESERVE side. Approach the church from Yucatán SAN FELIPE NATURE RESERVE Calle 41A, a beautiful colonial street known as the “Walkway of the Friars.” Only a few kilometers west of Valladolid, on the road to Chichén Tizimín Itzá, don’t miss Cenote Xke’ken and Motul Samula, two fascinating caverns where an underground river forms Izamal an underground lake. See p. 43. Ek Balam To Cancún The Palacio Municipal in Valladolid. ) Driving directions to Ek Balam: To Mérida Itzamná OLL TA (T CUO Leave Valladolid on Calle 40 north, RE Highlights of the center of Valladolid CUO IB TA (TO L cross over the Cuota, and, after LL) DA Valladolid RI include its pretty Main Plaza, where M É MÉ 12km (7.5 miles), look for signs on RID Mayan women sell handicrafts under A LIBRE the right. Chichén-Itzá large shade trees, and the Cathedral of San Gervacio, a huge, thick- 2 Ek Balam. About 15km (9.3 Yaxuná Cobá walled church facing the plaza. The miles) north of Valladolid there’s a surrounding buildings are all from turn off the road to Río Lagartos for the late 16th and 17th centuries, the Ek Balam (Black Jaguar) ruins. many of them with interesting shops These impressive Mayan ruins have and eateries. Stop in Yalat on calles yet to be discovered by swarms of 39 & 40 for some of the finest local bus-tour tourists from Cancún, which art and handicrafts available, or less means any visit here can be unhur- elegant and less expensive stuff at ried. When Ek Balam’s large pyramid Mercado de Artensanías de Val- was first excavated in 1999, archaeol- ladolid at calles 39 & 44. ogists discovered a huge monster- On the corner of the Main Plaza, mouth entrance into a tomb. It was the Palacio Municipal features in such good condition very little historical painted murals and a good reconstruction was necessary. view of the park. Well before the Spanish arrived, Under the Moorish arches on the Ek Balam’s Maya built a wall in front busy corner of calles 40 & 41, Por- of the monster mouth entry and tales Restaurant has occupied this filled it in with dirt and rubble. spot for over 100 years. Sit outside Because Mayan cities were regularly and order a refreshing horchata rice abandoned and then repopulated, milk drink while the world passes by. they probably planned to return and Watch your head if you use the uncover it again. But their world bathroom here; the entry was built changed, and centuries went by for those under 5'6'' tall. before its beauty saw the light of A few blocks from the center of day. The huge pyramid at Ek Balam, town is the Cenote Zací, offering built in a different style than a profound look into the watery Chichén’s, is in excellent condition. underworld, and in the opposite It’s well worth a visit and a climb. direction, the Church of San From the top, the pyramid at Cobá Bernardino and the Ex-Convento is visible. For more details about Ek of Sisal, a religious complex with Balam, see p 54. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 78

78 Tours Regional The Best

A fisherman and tern in Río Lagartos.

Stay in Valladolid or almost on-site away at Punta Meco. To see them all at the pleasant rustic hotel, Genesis in a 4-hour round-trip, the cost is Retreat ( y 985/852-7980; www. about U.S. $100 a boat. A 1-hour- genesisretreat.com), with a pleasant plus excursion runs about $40. pool and friendly hosts. A good side trip, via the fork in the road before Río Lagartos, is Driving directions to Río Lagar- nearby Las Coloradas. The Maya tos: Continue north from Ek have harvested these salt mountains Balam through the city of Tizimín, for more than a thousand years. the center of horse and cattle You’ll have to return to Valladolid country, and drive 53km (32.75 for better accommodations, miles) more, about 45 minutes. but good food is available in Río The road is good. Largatos at Restaurant Isla 3 Río Lagartos. The lush Contoy, Calle 19, on the riverfront, lagoons of Río Lagartos, on the or at Los Negritos, Calle 10, on the northern coast of the Yucatán, are way into town. Both restaurants home to thousands of pink flamingos mainly serve fresh fish. Drink with that nest and feed in its shallows, the men cantina-style at Torreja, which make it a popular bird-watch- next to the lighthouse. ing and ecotourism destination. Return toward Valladolid and From the fishing village, arrange a drive west on the bypass until it 2- to 4-hour tour in a launch boat rejoins Highway 180, Merida that visits several flamingo feeding Libre. You can also get on the grounds, which stretch across Cuota for about 40km (24.75 47,755 hectares (118,000 acres) of miles) and exit at the next toll for protected national park in connected Chichén Itzá. brackish lagoons. Unfortunately, the poorest sec- 4 Chichén Itzá. The ancient tion of the fishing village of Río Mayan city of Chichén Itzá is the Lagartos is on the way into town. crown jewel of Central Yucatán. Men will approach your car as you These magnificent ruins can be seen enter and offer trips. It’s OK to say in a few hours, if you just want to say yes, but check the price with the you’ve been there, or explored over 2 authorized cooperative at the har- or more days, including an entertain- bor kiosk. Prices vary for the length ing evening light show. It can get very and distance of your journey; sev- hot and sunny in the open grass eral large flocks are a fair distance areas of the ruins, so wear a hat, 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 79

79 The carry a sunbrella and a bottle of water, and slather on the sunscreen Central beforehand. The big attraction of these thousand-plus-year-old ruins is Chichén’s towering central pyramid, El Castillo. Yucatán The pyramid dominates your view as you enter, but many more fascinating structures are worth your time. To your left is the Ball Court, with its amazing acoustic characteristics, and the gruesome Platform of the Skulls, with its carved stone faces of sacrificial victims. The deep Sacred The Templo de los Guerreros at Cenote, where the Maya sacrificed Chichén Itzá. humans to the underworld by throw- ing them over the side, is a long walk that Mayanist scholars think may up a sacbé path. have held human hearts, cut from liv- Other highlights of Chichén ing victims. You can no longer climb include the Greco-Roman–looking the platform or cut out anybody’s Group of a Thousand Columns; heart, but the statue is visible from the impressively large Nunnery; El the ground. Caracol, an unmistakable landmark Stay near this requisite site, at that looks almost exactly like a mod- one of the hotels just outside the ern celestial observatory; and the back entrance, or in Valladolid, a Temple of the Warriors, where the half-hour drive away. For more original statue of Chac Mool resides information on the Mayan ruins and on top. Chac Mool is a reclining recommended hotels and restaurants figure holding a bowl on his stomach near Chichén Itzá, see p 55.

The Sacred Cenote at Chichén Itzá, where many sacrificial victims met their deaths. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 80

80 Campeche & Southern Tours Quintana Roo LOSLOS PETENESPETENES TekaxTekax ToTo CancCCancúnancún 180 TToo MMéridaérida TulumTulum BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE 184 RESERVERESERVE 307

Regional 295 1 CampecheCampeche 261 YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN PPuntaunta 180 HopelchHHopelchénopelchén FelipeFelipe CarrilloCarrillo AllenAllen 261 261 D PuertoPuerto EdznáEdznEdzná 184 SSIANIAN KKA'ANA'AN The Best QQUINTANAU I N T A N A ChampotCChampotónhampotón ROOR O O BBIOSPHEREIOSPHERE 307 CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E RRESERVEESERVE

LázaroLázaro LLosos LLimonesimones 261 CALAKMULCALAKMUL CáCárdenasrdenas BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE LagunaLaguna a KinichnáKinichná e RESERVERESERVE BBacalaracalar MajahualMajahual S FFranciscorancisco DzibanchéDzibanché n EEscárcegascárcega BecánBecán BacalarBacalar a 186 XpujilXpujil CChetumalhetumal e b

b BahíaBahía i 186 2 186 r ChicannáChicanná 3 ddee CChetumalhetumal a KohunlichKohunlich C CALAKMULCALAKMUL XcalakXcalak BBELIZEE L I Z E CalakmulCalakmul BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE RESERVERESERVE 0 50 mi N 0 50 km GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A 1 Campeche Maya archaeological site Belize City 2 Forest of Kings Ruins Cuota (toll highway) Belmopan 3 Chetumal Turneffe Islands ew tourists venture down this path, which affords savvy trav- Felers an unheralded array of Mayan ruins hidden in the jungle; a colonial-era World Heritage seaside city once fortified against frequent pirate attacks; ecotourism in Central America’s largest biosphere; an inland lake of seven colors; and Chetumal city, gateway to Belize. START: Campeche. Round Trip Length: 425 km (263.5 miles), Campeche to Chetumal.

times a day. To drive, take the A Note on Hotels & Cuota to Mérida, and then head Restaurants south on Highway 261. Or you can For additional information on sights, reverse the order of this itinerary: shops, and recommended hotels and Drive south from Cancún on High- restaurants in Campeche, see p 90. way 307 through Bacalar to Chetu- mal, then head west on Highway 186 to Escarcega, and then north An airport serves Campeche from on Highway 261 to Campeche. Mexico City and Cancún. First- class ADO buses depart Cancún’s 1 Campeche (495km/307 miles downtown bus station several SW of Cancún). The delightful city of 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 81

81 Campeche &

LOS PETENES Tekax To Cancún To Mérida Tulum

BIOSPHERE Quintana Roo RESERVE Campeche Y U C A T ÁN Punta Hopelchén Felipe Carrillo Allen Puerto Edzná SIAN Q U I N T A N A KA'AN Champotón R O O BIOSPHERE C A M P E C H E RESERVE

Lázaro Los Limones CALAKMUL Cárdenas Traditional Yucatecan architecture in Campeche. BIOSPHERE Laguna Kinichná RESERVE Bacalar Majahual Francisco Dzibanché Campeche, on the Gulf coast around Mayan jade mask and artifacts from Escárcega Becán Bacalar Xpujil Chetumal 2 hours south of Mérida, is a living the ruins of Calakmul. Bahía history museum, with narrow cobble- Campeche is surprisingly close to de Chetumal Chicanná Kohunlich stone streets and colonial-era build- the great Mayan ruin of Edzná. This CALAKMUL Xcalak ings awash in authentic period colors. classical site boasts a religious com- B E L I Z E Calakmul BIOSPHERE The United Nations designated it a plex known as the Great Acropolis, RESERVE World Heritage Site in 2000. which rises above a very large open Campeche is conveniently com- ceremonial plaza. The Acropolis con- G U A T E M A L A pact; most of what you want to tains five flanking pyramids, built in experience is within Centro His- different styles. The most promi- torico’s ramparts, built to deter nent—the Pyramid of Five pirate attacks. Not all the walls have Stories—doubled as a royal palace. survived, but the Baluartes—firing positions that once bristled with The Baluarte San Carlos in Campeche. canon—make for an interesting walking tour. Begin at the Parque Principal, Main Plaza, and see the imposing Cathedral de la Concepción. The Baluarte de la Soledad is a Museum of Mayan stelae. At the Puerta de Tierra (land gate), original 18th-century guns still guard the city entrance. Three times a week a Light and Sound Spectacular takes place here, including a walk on the balustrade and a pirate sword fight. The Baluarte de San Carlos houses the City Museum. On a flanking hill, high above the city, sits Fuerte San Miguel, a well- preserved 18th-century fortress overlooking the harbor. Its excellent little museum features a priceless 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 82

82 Drive out from Campeche on Av. known for its Pyramid of the Pedro Moreno, toward the air- Masks. These stucco face designs

Tours port, and take the toll road High- date from around 500 A.D. way 261 for Champoton. Turn left Continue west on Highway 186 (east), in Escarcega, on Highway until it joins Highway 307. Turn 186 for Xpujil and Chetumal. right (south) for Chetumal, or left Ruins are accessed from this

Regional (north) for Lake Bacalar. main road across the peninsula. 3 Chetumal (379km/235 miles 2 Forest of Kings Ruins. The south of Cancún). The capital of the southern part of Quintana Roo and state of Quintana Roo is Chetumal, a Campeche states are home to many

The Best rather undistinguished-looking city impressive, rarely visited Mayan on Belize Bay. Despite its govern- ruins. In Campeche’s 179,000-acre mental status, it has a less Mexican, Calakmul Biosphere Reserve lie more laissez-faire Caribbean atti- the ruins of Rio Bec, including the tude, enhanced by its wooden city of Calakmul. Look for the single- houses and proximity to English- lane entrance road on your right at speaking Belize. Km 97, west of Xpujil. It’s a multi-day Know as the cradle of the Mestizo effort to see; if it’s too much, visit the race, Chetumal is where the first more easily accessed ruins on the Spanish-Mayan children were born. border of Campeche and Quinatana A lengthy and inviting malecón wan- Roo: Chicanna, with its great Chenes ders along the broad bay, and Chetu- monster mouth doorway; Becán, mal’s wonderful Museum of the which features towers and a moat; Maya is a must-see. Downtown on and Xpujil, which boasts a Mayan Av. Heroés, it offers a comprehensive version of the Twin Towers. All are look at the Yucatán’s history and a close to the road, and you can visit multistory, wheeled Mayan calendar. each in half an hour without doing North of Chetumal is the large Lake them a disservice. of Seven Colors, Laguna Bacalar. The ruins near Chetumal are Fort Bacalar, in the town of the same Dzibanché and Kinichná, two name, makes an interesting short nearly deserted classic-era sites historical stop. You can avoid Chetu- within walking distance of each mal’s downtown by staying on its other, but well off the highway. lakeshore. Kohunlich is a ruined lowland city

The Maya site of Xpujil in Quintana Roo. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 83

83 Where to Where to Stay & Dine

Chicanna Ecovillage XPUJIL/ size. The hotel has a nice shady pool Stay & Dine CHICANNA Across the highway but a forgettable restaurant. Dine from the Chicanna Mayan ruins, this across the street at Los Cocos ecologically themed resort welcomes instead. Av. Niños Heroés, No. 171. guests to well-appointed accommo- y 983/835-0400. www.ichotels dations in South Pacific–worthy group.com. $75. AE, MC, V. thatched-roof buildings. Each holds Hotel Laguna BACALAR/CHETU- four ample bedrooms (those upstairs MAL Staying at this funky hotel is are better), with outside balconies or like entering a time warp back to the patios. All feature two double beds, 1970s, when it was built. With a gor- solar hot water, and the liberal use of geous location on a hill that slips polished native hardwoods through- down to the “Lake of Seven Colors,” out. A very good restaurant is on-site; it has large bedrooms with two dou- before dinner, guests sit and socialize ble beds and private balconies with on its veranda. Highway 186 opposite white wrought-iron furniture. The the Chicanna Ruins. y 981/816-2223. tropical garden grounds are mani- www.delmarhotel.com.mx. $125. AE, cured and very inviting. Walls of the MC, V. common areas are decorated in Explorean Club KOHUNLICH/ seashells, quirkily enough—appar- CHETUMAL The tall, pyramid- ently brought in by the trailer load shaped, thatched roof of the all-inclu- and affixed to the walls. The restau- sive Explorean Club’s central lodge rant walls are also full of hand- rises above the jungle just outside painted dichos (sayings or maxims) the classic Mayan ruins of Kohunlich. in Spanish, in case you need big-life This boutique hotel features a long, advice. This place remains a per- thin infinity pool, saunas, and other sonal favorite. Highway 307. y 983/ luxury amenities in a colorful jungle 834-2206. www.hotellagunabacalar. garden setting. Luxury guest villas com. 34 units. $50 double. MC, V. have king-size beds, designer toi- Hotel Los Cocos CHETUMAL letries, complimentary thick cotton MEXICAN Down the street from the robes, and private patios. Kohunilich Museum of the Maya, this notable Ruins Road. y 877/397-5672 in U.S. capital hotel features overly large or 800/366-6666. www.theexplorean. bedrooms and simple but comfort- com. $300 all-inclusive. AE, MC, V. able furnishings. Each room is tidy, Holiday Inn Caribe CHETUMAL and the staff here is very helpful, The Holiday Inn in downtown Chetu- albeit in Spanish. The hotel’s open- mal offers standardized, depend- air, street-side Mexican restaurant is able comfort in the heart of the city. extremely popular and the best place Its rooms, with low ceilings, can be to dine in town. Tasty dishes, reason- described as small, but we find able prices, and excellent service are them to be intimate and cozy. Large, the hallmarks here. Av. Niños Heroés, restful beds, cable television, and No. 134. y 983/832-0544. www. tile bathrooms with good towels hotelloscocos.com.mx. 177 units. $75. make up for what the rooms lack in AE, MC, V. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 84

84 The Western Yucatán Tours Telchac Dzilam Gulf of Mexico Progreso 27 Puerto de Bravo Yucalpetén 172 Dzidzantún Sisal 4 261 Cansahcab Dzibilchaltún 176 Motul Temax Regional EESTATALSTATAL EELL PPALMARALMAR 25 EECOLOGICALCOLOGICAL Conkal RRESERVEESERVE Hunucmá Tixkokob 1 Cacalchén MéMéridarida 80 Izamal Kinchil Celestún Kanasín Umán 180 2 281 MÉRIDA 3 L Itzamná IBR The Best Acanceh E CUOTA (TOLL) Hocabá 180 RÍARÍA CCELESTÚNELESTÚN 180 Tecoh Kantunil D NATIONALNATIONAL YUCATÁN 180

WILDLIFEWILDLIFE 261 Telchaquillo RREFUGEEFUGE Maxcanú To Cancún Mayapán Sotuta 18 Tekit Oxkintoc Halachó Muna Yaxcabá Mama Becal Ticul Maní Uxmal Santa Teabo Calkiní Elena LLOSOS CAMPECHE 4 Oxkutzcab PPETENESETENES Kabah Loltún Cave BBIOSPHEREIOSPHERE 180 RRESERVEESERVE Labná Tekax Hecelchakán Sayil Xlapak Chacmultún 184 Peto

261 Tenabo To Campeche Tzucacab

Campeche 1 Mérida 3 Celestún 0 20 mi 2 Izamal 4 Uxmal N 0 20 km 5

ravelers seeking adventure, history, colonial architecture, Truined or restored haciendas, lost Mayan cities and culture, natural wonders, beaches, and birds have flocked to the Western Yucatán since long before Cancún was even an idea. The western part of the peninsula includes some of the most wondrous destinations in North America, beginning with the city of Mérida. START: Mérida. Round trip length: 480km (297.5 miles).

A Note on Hotels & An international airport serves Restaurants Mérida with flights from select US cities, Mexico City, and For additional information on sights, Cancún. shops, and recommended hotels and 1 Mérida. “One fiesta was hardly restaurants in Mérida, see p 108. ended when another began,” wrote Mérida’s first North American Take the Cuota toll road from tourist, John Lloyd Stephens, in Cancún (about 4 hrs.) or the 1841. In that respect, things haven’t slower (6-hr.) free route, Highway changed much in the peninsula’s 180, Mérida Libre, past many largest, most cosmopolitan city, the small villages. Merida is 306km capital of Yucatán State. Every day (189.75 miles) west of Cancún. or evening, Mérida offers cultural 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 85

85 The happenings, and weekends in the city are like one long holiday. Urban Western enthusiasts will thrive on Mérida’s relatively busy pace, but the traffic may turn off others. Francisco de Montejo, the con-

queror of the Yucatán, founded Yucatán ESTATAL EL PALMAR ECOLOGICAL Mérida in 1542. The Spanish built it RESERVE from the dismantled pyramids of the Mérida Mayan city of T’ho, whose founda- tions lie beneath the modern streets. The Centro Historico, RÍA CELESTÚN heart of the city, expands out from NATIONAL WILDLIFE the shady Main Plaza, where fre- REFUGE quent fiestas and celebrations take place. Most of Mérida’s highlights are contained within a 12-square block area. If you see nothing else of the LOS PETENES city, visit the hulking fortress cathe- BIOSPHERE dral facing the plaza. The Catedral RESERVE de San Ildefonso, finished in 1598, The golden cityscape of Izamal. is considered perhaps the finest Spanish-built structure in the Ameri- musical performances; and the Gov- cas. Nearby is Montejo’s family ernor’s Palace, with a great view of home, Casa de Montejo, with its the park, the cathedral, and huge friezes of Conquistadors crushing interesting mural paintings and the heads of Mayan warriors under- portraits on the second story. The foot. Other attractions around the corner of calles 61 and 60 is also a square include the Contemporary great place to hire a casela (horse- Art Museum; Municipal Palace, drawn buggy) for a romantic tour of host to weekly folklore dances and the downtown.

Salt harvested according to ancient Maya methods from the salt ponds at Celestún. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 86

86 Up Calle 60, discover Mérida’s around them. The most notable is finest theater, Teatro Peón Con- the 35m (114-ft.) Kinich Kakmo

Tours treras. This opulent Italianesque (Fire Macaw), which occupies an monument was built in 1908, in imi- entire city block. Don’t miss a ride tation of the finest European theaters around town in a “Victoria” horse of that era. North of Calle 47, find and buggy or the 16th-century wall the fashionable Paseo de Montejo, paintings in the Convento. Regional a broad, Champs d’Élysées–style Frequent buses run to Celestún boulevard lined with mansions, some from the station on Calle 71, converted to offices and restaurants. 64/66, and travel agents sell daily One of the largest homes is now the escorted tours. To drive, follow

The Best Anthropology Museum. Calle 57 west until it becomes Mérida was influenced by indige- 59A and continue straight, follow- nous Maya, who still come to their ing signs for Hunucmá and then ancient city for market; by the Celestún. French during the Second Empire; by the influx of Lebanese at the turn 3 Celestún (about 80km/49.5 of the 20th century; and by the miles east of Mérida). Even the most influx of tourism made easier by jaded urbanite can’t help but admire Cancún’s popularity. Mérida offers the beauty of hundreds of delicate the best of the old and new worlds. pink-white flamingos when they Lively arts, theater, culture, and take flight over the shallow lagoons music—attractions partly fueled by of Celestún Nature Reserve, 1 a large North American expatriate 1 ⁄2 hours west of Mérida. population—makes Mérida the Celestún village is situated on the place to begin and end a tour of the Gulf of Mexico, nearly surrounded western Yucatán. by marshy lagoons. Several large colonies of pink flamingos migrated Smaller side roads lead to Izamal; here to nest and feed after Hurri- the most direct route is Rte. 80 cane Gilbert changed the lagoons through Tixkokob, turning for around Río Lagartos. Flamingo col- Cacalchén rather than continuing ors depend on the salt content of straight toward Motul. Or a faster the water they strain through their way is to retrace Highway 180 beaks as they feed; without salt, east to Kantunil, where the Cuota they’re white. begins, and follow the signs Celestún is still predominately a north to Izamal. fishing community, where 25-foot 2 Izamal (about 80km/49.5 miles launches line the dirty estuary west of Mérida). Once a holy city for harbor. But many former fishermen the pre-Columbian Maya, Izamal is now pilot their boats for tourists perhaps the most traditional of instead. Yucatecan cities. Famous for having You can hire a launch (the fewer all its buildings painted gold, the people in the boat, the better) at massive Convento de San Antoñio the Unidad Reception Center, at de Padua dominates the town and the bridge to the entrance of the vil- its people. Built in 1561 by the Fran- lage. The boats will get close, but ciscans, on the base of what was a not too close, to the flocks of birds. humongous Mayan pyramid, it On the way back, be sure to have boasts the second-largest central your boatman stop at the cenote courtyard outside of the Vatican. beside the lagoon, so you can take a Surviving pyramids are scattered quick dip. Launches also leave from around the town that grew up the beach and reach the lagoon via 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 87

87 The the river mouth, visiting another Its distinctive steep, rounded sides colony along the way. are unique, and the far side features Western an ornate doorway with 12 stylized Take Highway 261 from the zoo masks of the rain god Chaac. south to the city of Uman, continu- The Nunnery Quadrangle ing toward Muna. Take the bypass resembled a convent to the Spanish, road that goes around Muna, just hence its name, but it may have Yucatán before Uxmal, or drive directly housed warrior princes in training in through town to Uxmal Ruins. its 70-odd cubicle rooms. 4 Uxmal (about 80km/49.5 miles In terms of its size and intricate south of Mérida). Rising above the stonework, the Governor’s Palace almost flat topography of the is a gem of Mayan architecture. It’s Yucatán, the Puuc Hills (pook means three levels tall, with a long mosaic hill country in Mayan) herald your façade. Its central doorway is approach to Uxmal, one of the most aligned with Venus. Next to it, the intriguing ruins of the ancient Maya. massive Great Pyramid affords a Like Chichén Itzá, Uxmal (oosh-mahl) wonderful view from the top of its is an impressive ruin with huge pyra- nine stories. mids and fascinating structures A series of smaller but very inter- noted for their rich geometric stone esting ruins lines a road known as facades. Where Chichén is grandiose the Ruta Puuc, a short drive south. and crowded, Uxmal is beautiful and Uxmal makes a good day trip, much less visited. but we suggest an overnight stay to The Pyramid of the Magician do it justice. This way you can work (also known as the Pyramid of the in the Ruta Puuc ruins and Uxmal’s Dwarf) is the first structure you’ll evening light show as well. For more see when you enter the grounds. details, see p 57.

Climbing the Pyramid of the Magician at Uxmal. 09_081198 ch05.qxp 1/10/07 6:01 PM Page 88

88 Where to Stay & Dine Tours

Eco Paraíso Xixim CELESTUN Kinich Kakmo IZAMAL REGIONAL/ This ecological-themed resort on MEXICAN Near the large pyramid 280 acres features generous, private of the same name, this Yucatecan rooms in attractive individual restaurant attracts tourists to its Regional cabañas with porch patios, steps shady palapa dining area set in gar- from a deserted beach. A shade por- dens behind a gift shop. See tortillas tico covers the pool, and the com- made and cooked by hand in a smoky mon room is good for socializing. The Mayan hut. Order either the pollo The Best hotel recycles its water and waste, pibil or cochenita pibil; the former is grows its own vegetables, and offers chicken, the latter, pork, cooked in much-needed ecofriendly mosquito banana leaves until the meat falls repellent. It’s located well out of apart on your fork. Arrive in style town. Antigua Carretera a Sisal, in a horse-drawn buggy. Calle 27, Km. 9. y 988/916-2100. www.eco between 28/30. No phone. Entrees paraiso.com. 15 units. $200 double, $3–$8. No credit cards. including 2 meals per person. Macan Che IZAMAL The best AE, MC, V. accommodations in Izamal are found Ecohotel Flamingo Playa at this appealing B&B that features CELESTUN In a downtown of very individual cabañas, decorated in basic Mexican hotels, this stands worldwide travel themes, and set out only for its quiet location on the apart in tropical gardens beneath broad Gulf Beach, on the northern shady trees. They have a small pool edge of town, where shell collecting and a good paperback exchange is a favorite pastime. An appealing library, and they include a full break- pool faces the beach, but the clean fast in the rates. Calle 22 (between rooms are very basic: beds, fan or 31/33). y 988/954-0287. www. air-conditioning, and bathroom. The macanche.com. $50 inc. breakfast. congenial manager offers a basic No credit cards. breakfast on a card table in front. North road along the beach. y 988/ The modest yet charming Flycatcher Inn 916-2166. 6 rooms. $50. No credit B&B in Uxmal. cards. Flycatcher Inn B&B SANTA ELENA/UXMAL This pleasant little bed-and-breakfast, with helpful hosts, is a short drive from the ruins of Uxmal along the road to Kabah and the Ruta Puuc. The rooms are quiet, attractive, and spacious, with queen-size beds and wrought-iron headboards. Set upon a rise above the road, new rooms are available in charming casitas outside the main house. Carretera Uxmal-Kabah. No phone. www.fly catcherinn.com. $40 double, $50 suite. No credit cards. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 89

Charming 6 Cities & Towns 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 90

Campeche

Gulf of Mexico TToo FFort-Museumort-Museum Cancún Mérida SSanan JJoséosé & YUCATÁN Bay of SSceniccenic VVistaista Campeche Isla Campeche Cozumel

QUINTANA Caribbean Cities & Towns Sea 20 ROO adores CAMPECHE 0 100 mi Chetumal 0 100 km ADO Av. GobernBus 2 cuito Ba Station nida Cir luartes N Ave orte

Charming i 7

Baluarte Chihuahua Calle 51 San Pedro Avenida Ruíz Cortines

Calle 53 mbre 6 Market Avenida Circuito PParquearque 19 Calle 55 PPrincipalrincipal 18 16 de Septie 3 5 14 Baluarte San Francisco 12 4 Calle 57 17 Baluartes Este

Calle 8

Calle 10 13 Calle 12 Calle 59 16 8 9

Calle 61 Calle 14 Calle 16

Puebla

Calle 63 10 15 Baluarte San Juan Calle 65 A ve nid a C irc uito TToo FFort-Museumort-Museum Balu artes Sur SSanan MMigueliguel & SSceniccenic VVistaista Baluarte 11 Santa Rosa

1 Puerta del Mar WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO DINE 2 Malecón Hotel América 16 Casa Vieja 18 3 Baluarte de la Soledad Hotel Baluartes 13 La Pigua 20 4 Casa 6 Hotel Colonial 14 Restaurant Bar Familiar La Parroquía 19 5 Parque Principal Hotel del Mar (seafront) 12 Restaurante Marganzo 17 6 Catedrál de la Concepción Hotel Francis Drake 15 7 Baluarte de Santiago 8 Casa de Teniente del Rey 9 Puerta de Tierra Tourist Office i 0 1/4 mi 10 Baluarte de San Carlos N 11 Fuerte San Miguel 0 0.25 km

Previous page: The Catholic cathedral in Izamal. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 91

91 Campeche ith narrow streets, high sidewalks, and period color on the

17th- and 18th-century homes in its walled center, Campeche W is the best-restored colonial city in Mexico. UNESCO named it a To Fort-Museum San José & World Heritage Site in 2000, and its cinematic Spanish Colonial Scenic Vista streets have appeared in a number of Mexican films. Yet it’s still well off the beaten path of most tourists to the Yucatán—despite the fact that it’s a historic treasure box, compact and ideal for exploring on foot. START: Campeche is SW of Mérida on Highway 180. You can also get here from the Ruta Puc/Uxmal area on Highway 261. Trip length: 257km (159.25 miles) from Mérida; 100 km (62 miles) from Ruta Puuc/ Uxmal.

1 Puerta del Mar. One of four sculpture. Lots of people come major entrance gates into the city— every evening to watch the sunset which the Spanish walled and forti- over the Gulf. Av. Ruíz Cortines. fied in the late 1600s against pirate 3 Baluarte de la Soledad. attacks—the Puerta del Mar (Sea Baluartes (armed defensive bastions) Parque Gate) once opened onto a dock. Principal flank the entrance gates to the city. Over the years, the waterfront was This one, north of the Sea Gate, is gradually filled and relocated to its now a museum of Mayan stelae. Its present position farther west. The salons showcase carved stone hiero- park in front hosts occasional fairs. glyph tablets found in Campeche Calles 8 and 59. ruins; many are badly worn, but line 2 Malecón. Along the waterfront drawings highlight their design. for more than a kilometer, the Explanatory text is in Spanish. Out- malecón is a long paved walkway side, the water fountains are illumi- popular with Campechanos and nated for the evening. Calles 57 and tourists alike. A favorite walking 8. Open Tues–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun and running path, the malecón is 9am–1pm. Admission $3 broader in places to make room for 4 Casa 6 (Seis). The city’s main restful seating and contemporary tourist office and cultural center is To Fort-Museum San Miguel & Campeche’s Main Square. Scenic Vista 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 92

92 here, in a wonderfully restored Moorish-style mansion opposite the Park. Rich period furniture is on display in various rooms. Photographs of other restored colonial buildings in Campeche are on exhibition in the striking, arched-roof patio.

Cities & Towns @ 15 min. Calle 57 (opposite the Park). Open 9am–9pm. Free. 5 Parque Principal. Campeche’s pretty little central plaza is the center of city life, Charming despite its small size. In the middle is El Kiosko, a gazebo bandstand that becomes a restaurant in the evening. Bus tours of the city leave Catedral de la Concepción in Campeche. from in front of the park, hourly or so on weekends, from Calle 10. 7 Baluarte de Santiago. Take @ 10 min. Calles 8, 10, 59, and 57. respite from the heat in the middle of a traffic circle, where a green 6 Cathedral de la Concep- botanical garden fills the former ción. The dominant façade of military fortification. Flower power, Campeche’s cathedral faces the park. baby. @ 15 min. Av. 16 de Septiembre Its tall twin towers were built slowly and Av. Circuito Baluartes Norte. over 2 centuries: One is known as Admission by donation. the “El Colonial,” because it was completed during colonial times; the 8 Casa de Teniente del Rey. other as “La Campechano,” finished An interesting collection of Mayan after independence. Inside, it’s quite cultural artifacts found a home in austere. @ 15 min. Calles 55 and 10. this former Conquistador’s house. No phone. Admission free. The spoils: jade jewelry from Calak- mul and a wooden plank headdress, The Baluarte San Carlos. used to slant a baby’s head to the oblong shape the Maya considered beautiful. @ 40 min. Calle 59 (between calles 14/16). Open Tues–Sat 8am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. Sun 9am–1pm. Admission $3.

Crafts Fair Shoppers will find the best handicrafts from around the state in the official city arts building, Tukulná, on Calle 10 between calles 59 and 61. It’s a beautifully restored building with a small coffee shop. Also look in the specialty craft store, Típica Naval, on Calle 8 between calles 59 and 57, for wooden sailing ship models— a Campeche folk art tradition. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 93

93 Campeche The Ruins of Edzná

The breathtaking Mayan ruins of Edzná, only 50km (31 miles) west of the downtown, boast a huge ceremonial grass courtyard, complete with stadium-style seats and a unique astronomical phe- nomenon—when a stele is illuminated by a beam of light to signal the start of planting season. Even if you’re just passing through Campeche, don’t miss these ruins. See p 58 for more details.

9 Puerta de Tierra. best-preserved, most photogenic Campeche’s icon, the Land Gate is fort, built to end pirate attacks. With the largest surviving portion of the the original 18th-century cannon on old city ramparts. Thick wooden its parapets, it’s easy to imagine a doors, built in 1732 to repel pirate swashbuckling pirate movie being attacks, later protected refugees of filmed here. On a mountaintop over- European ancestry from Mayan looking the harbor, 4km (2.5 miles) attacks in the 19th-century Caste south of the city, the site is graced War. Original 18th-century guns still by refreshing breezes and a super guard the gate. The 5-ton French view of the sunset. The museum in cannon from 1732 in the entryway the interior houses the exquisite was found in 1990. On Tuesdays, Fri- jade mask found in the Mayan ruins days, and Saturday nights at 8pm, a of Calakmul, creative Mayan pot- Light and Sound Spectacular tery, and the prow of an ancient takes place, including a walk on the mariner’s vessel. (“By thy long gray balustrade and a pirate sword fight beard and glittering eye, now at the Baluarte de San Juan. Buy wherefore stoppest thou me?”) 1 tickets in advance. @ 30 min. 1 ⁄2 hr. @ 1 hr. Ruta Esencía. No phone. for the show. Calle 59 at Circuito Open Tues–Sat 9am–8pm and Sun Baluartes. No phone. Open Tues–Sun 8am–noon. Admission $3. 8am–8pm. Admission $3. The streets of Campeche. 0 Baluarte de San Carlos. Museo de la Ciudad. The Museum of the City, is housed in the oldest baluarte, built in 1686 to protect the wall’s vulnerable southern exposure. Principally concerned with the construction of Campeche’s fortifica- tions, it has an intriguing collection of old maps and a scale model of the city from way back when. @ 30 min. Circuito Baluartes Sur and Av. Justo Sierra. Open Tues–Sat 8am–2pm and 5–8pm. Sun 9am–1pm. Admission $3. ! Fuerte San Miguel. A visit to Campeche would not be complete without a glimpse of Campeche’s 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 94

94 Where to Stay

Hotel América HISTORIC CENTER Castro, the Colonial is neat and A bit more modern and distin- clean but careworn. Each room has guished than the Colonial, this hotel high ceilings and original tile floors is in a Spanish-style mansion with made to imitate Oriental rugs. Calle Cities & Towns individual rooms surrounding an 14 no. 122 (between calles 57/55). open, tiled courtyard. Moorish y 981/816-2222. 30 units. Doubles arches face the courtyard. Hacienda $25; $35 with A/C. No credit cards. artifacts, such as hand tools and ★ Hotel del Mar SEAFRONT wooden carts, accent its Mexican Charming This four-story landmark facing the decor. Rooms are midsize and com- Gulf is rightly Campeche’s best and fortable with soft lighting. One block most popular hotel—with its large south of the main plaza, the Amer- rooms, big cool pool, oceanfront ica offers private parking. Calle 10 views, excellent restaurant, popular (near 59). y 981/816-4588. nightclub, and attentive staff. Make www.hotelamericacampeche.com. reservations here for the Chicanna 52 units. Doubles $45. MC, V. Ecolodge, near Xpujil on the road Hotel Baluartes SEAFRONT back to Chetumal. See p 60 for Facing the Gulf, across the street details of the Forest of Kings ruins. from the del Mar, is Campeche’s Av. Ruíz Cortines. y 981/811-9192. original “luxury” hotel, Baluartes. www.delmarhotel.com.mx. 145 The cheerful rooms were recently units. Doubles $125. AE, MC, V. refurbished with new tile floors, ★ Hotel Francis Drake HISTORIC beds, and furniture. Yet, despite the CENTER A welcome treat in the remodeling, the Baluartes retains its historic center, this new boutique 1960s feel—which is fairly modern, hotel in a beautifully restored considering you’re in Campeche. mansion features restful, midsize Av. Ruíz Cortines. y 981/816-3911. rooms, a quality restaurant serving www.baluartes.com.mx. 104 units. seafood and Mexican fare, and Doubles $60. AE, MC, V. air-conditioning. Named after the Hotel Colonial HISTORIC CENTER English admiral who purportedly This is the best bet if you’re looking raided the city as a pirate, the for a family-run, colonial-era hotel Drake is reasonably priced and that time has seemingly forgotten— one of the best values in town. and you don’t mind funky. The for- Calle 12 (between calles 63/65). mer family residence of a colonial y 981/811-5626. www.hotelfrancis governor appointed by the King of drake.com. 24 units. Doubles $70, Spain, Brigadier don Miguel de suites $80–$93. AE, MC, V.

The lobby of the Hotel América. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 95

95 Where to Where to Dine

Casa Vieja HISTORIC CENTER central location and large menu, this CUBAN/MEXICAN Dine on some restaurant would have qualified for Dine tasty cooking at this romantic “Old our “Take a Break” sidebar, but it’s House” restaurant overlooking the such a venerable dining institution Park. Choose a table in one of the we’d be remiss not to give it a full intimate rooms decorated with listing. La Parroquia has a plain din- Campechano memorabilia and old ing room with a diner-like menu, but photos, or on a dreamy second- it’s the place in Campeche for fami- floor veranda with a view of the lies, friends, lovers, and strangers to street and park below (our prefer- meet, greet, eat, or just sit around ence). It’s a good place to go when with a cold beer in hand. Open 24 you’d like something other than hours a day. Calle 55 no. 9 (between seafood. Calle 10 no. 319. y 981/ calles 10/12). y 981/816-8086. 811-1311. Entrees $6–$16. No credit Entrees $4–$12. No credit cards. cards. Open Tues–Sun 9am–2am, Daily 24 hrs. Mon 5:30pm–2am. Restaurante Marganzo HISTORIC La Pigua GUADELOUPE SEAFOOD CENTER SEAFOOD/MEXICAN This La Pigua, named after a kind of special little restaurant is a long-time shrimp, offers a fresh selection of favorite of tourists and locals alike. seafood delicacies, including a Waitresses wear colorful costume shrimp “caviar,” in a dining room dresses that swirl brightly when they filled with cool greenery. This turn. Seating is in a tiered dining famous restaurant is only open for room at tables with starched white lunch—which in Campeche means linens. Fresh seafood dominates the all afternoon. Walk north from Balu- varied menu. Try any of the baby arte de Santiago; it’s a block and a shark dishes, such as pan de cazón: half past the circle. Av. Miguel layered tortilla, shark, and tomato Alemán 179A. y 981/811-3365. sauce—a Campechano delicacy. Entrees $9–$17. AE, MC, V. Daily Open early until late, near the Sea noon–6pm. Reservations suggested. Gate. Calle 8 no. 267 (near the Puerta del Mar). y 981/816-3899. www. Restaurant Bar Familiar La marganzo.com. Entrees $6–$15. Parroquia HISTORIC CENTER AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm. SEAFOOD/MEXICAN Given its

Campeche After Dark

They’d roll up the streets after the sun goes down here if they could. Campeche isn’t known as a young party town, except for occasional street festivals around Mexican and religious holidays. Lafitte’s, a nautical nightclub and bar in the Hotel del Mar (see listing in “Where to Stay”), draws a mixed crowd. A teen and young adult weekend hotspot is KY8, a nightclub near the Sea Gate on calles 8 and 10. And La Parroquia (see listing in “Where to Dine”) is open 24 hours for food and drink. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 96

96 Cozumel Punta Molas Lighthouse 0 5 mi Caribbean Punta Molas N Sea 0 5 km Laguna Xlapak Punta Norte Isla de la Pasión Cities & Towns See inset below 6 17 Castillo Real Ferry Downtown Pier Airport To Playa del Carmen San Gervasio Playa (45 mins.) San Miguel Charming 11 Xhanan Ferry de Cozumel Carretera Transversal Cruise Ship Pier Playa Bonita Ferry & Car Ferry (Cross Island Road) Santa Rosa N.N. ParaisoParaiso RReefeef Cruise Ship Pier S.S. ParaisoParaiso ReefReef 7 ChankanaabChankanaab 14 Punta Ixalbarco ReefReef 8 Santa Cecilia TormentosTormentos Laguna ReefReef Chankanaab Playa Oriente YucabYucab ReefReef 15 Punta Morena El Cedral Santa Caribbean Rosa Sea Reef Playa San Playa Chen Río SanSan Francisco FranciscoFrancisco Buena Vista ReefReef Punta Chiqueros PalancarPalancar Playa El Mirador ReefReef Palancar San Miguel Caribbean SeaCalle 12 Norte Tumba de 10 Caracol PalancarPalancar RReefeef LLagunaaguna 13 Calle 10 Norte Deep ColombiaColombia Playa Bush Columbia Celarain Lighthouse 5 15 Avenida Norte Calle 8 Norte Punta Sur Punta Celarain S 9 h 12 Co allow lumbia 5 Avenida Norte Calle 6 Norte 4 10 Avenida Norte Airport i Information Calle 4 Norte 16 Beach Pedestrians only

Ruins Post office Calle 2 Norte 3

1 Ferry Pier WHERE TO STAY Avenida Benito Juárez 1 Melgar Rafael Avenida Plaza 2 Main Plaza El Presidente i Intercontinental 14 2 3 Malecón Hacienda Calle 1 Sur 4 13 Cozumel Museum San Miguel Cozumel Channel 12 5 Los Cinco Soles Hotel Flamingo Occidental Grand Calle Dr. Adolfo Rosado Salas 6 Cozumel Country Club Cozumel 15 18 7 Atlantis Submarine WHERE TO DINE Calle 3 Sur 8 Chankanaab Cabaña del National Park Pescador 17 19

19 Calle 5 Sur 5 Av. Sur

10 Av. Sur Capi Navigante 15 Avenida Sur 9 Punta Sur Ecological La Choza 18 Reserve 16 La Veranda Recompression 0 100 yds 10 Windward Side Chamber Calle 7 Sur N 11 San Gervasio Ruins 0 100 m 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 97

97 Cozumel idely considered the top dive destination in the Western WHemisphere, Mexico’s largest island attracts tens of thousands of divers each year seeking to plumb the towering reefs that line the southwest coast. Even landlubbers shouldn’t miss a loop around the island to see its dramatic, deserted windward side. San Miguel, Cozumel’s only town, is home to many specialty shops, restaurants, and hotels. Many more thousands of 1-day cruise-ship passengers stop here, as a Caribbean port of call, but they rarely make it farther than the waterfront shopping area. START: Cancún or Playa del Carmen. Trip length: Cozumel is 19km (12 miles) off the coast from the Playa del Car- men ferry dock, about 70km (44 miles) south of Cancún on Highway 307.

3 Malecón. North and south of Travel Tip N. Paraiso Reef the ferry pier, paralleling Av. Rafael S. Paraiso Reef For more information on diving Melgar, an appealing walkway Chankanaab opportunities in Cozumel, see (malecón) winds along the water- Reef Tormentos p 34. front. It’s a popular stroll in the Reef morning or evening and a good Yucab Reef place to watch the sunset or ships 1 Ferry Pier. Island life begins in the harbor. Av. Rafael Melgar. where the ferries run from Playa 4 = The San del Carmen. After disembarking, Cozumel Museum. Francisco passengers can expect hawkers to history of Cozumel is presented in Reef this modest museum, housed in Palancar solicit them to rent cars or motor- Reef bikes, or to book fishing or snorkel- what was the island’s first luxury ing trips. Av. Rafael Melgar. hotel, which opened in 1936. The first floor features natural history Palancar Reef Laguna 2 Main Plaza. All around San Colombia exhibits on local flora and fauna, Miguel’s zócalo are many jewelry, including endangered species, gift, and handicraft shops and a vari- topography, and the coral reef forma- ety of dining choices. In fact, the tion that put Cozumel on the map. central downtown caters to shop- The second story tells the story of pers and diners. Cruise-ship passen- Cozumel from pre-Columbian gers who never leave the enclosed through modern times, including air-conditioned shopping malls at pirates of the Caribbean. Salas house their dock miss out. On Sundays, Mayan artifacts found at the ruins local residents congregate to social- and colonial-era canon, swords, and ize, often accompanied by live shipwreck paraphernalia. @ 30 min. music. Av. Rafael Melgar.

A horse and buggy stops by the sea on the malecón in Cozumel. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 98

Av. Rafael Melgar (between calles 4/6). y 987/872-1475. Admission $3.

Café del Museo. On the breezy second-floor balcony of the City Museum, overlooking the harbor across the straits to Playa del Car- Cities & Towns men, this inexpensive little coffee shop opens for breakfast and lunch and offers the island’s best all- around light dining value. Charming

5 Los Cinco Soles. Cozumel’s largest air-conditioned store offers hot and weary travelers lots of quality gifts and Pancho’s Backyard, a Local handicrafts at a store in Cozumel. pleasant Mexican restaurant. Best of all they have wonderfully clean a wide inland lagoon. The Nicholas bathrooms, open to the public. The Design Group carved this challenging, building originally served as a chicle 18-hole course out of Cozumel’s thick resin (used for the first chewing jungle and low-growing mangroves. gum) warehouse in the early 1900s The result is spectacular and sheer and, from 1960 to the1980s, as a pleasure to play. It’s a naturally gor- waterfront hotel. Av. Melgar (Calle 8). geous course that won an ecological y 987/872-0132. award for conservation efforts. The country club features an outdoor 6 Cozumel Country Club. It restaurant, on-course beverage carts, takes a lot of balls to play this golf and equipment rental. Carretera course if you don’t stay on the fair- Santa Pilar. y 987/872-9570. way; shots into the rough become www.cozumelcountryclub.com.mx. part of the jungle or disappear into 7 = Atlantis Submarine. Iglesia de San Miguel in Cozumel. Forget Das Boot and go for a fascinating dive in an air-conditioned submersible boat. It dips as deep as 99 feet (30m) for views of Cozumel’s incredible reef formations and colorful schools of fish. @ 1 hr. Carretera Sur Km 4. y 987/872-5671. Open Mon–Sat 9am–2pm. 8 = Chankanaab National Park. If you’re looking for a place to spend the day on a lovely stretch of beach with full facilities, Chankanaab is a good choice. Its name means “Small Sea” in Mayan, referring to the inland lagoon full of petrified coral. Botanical gardens with shady walking paths surround the lagoon. It gets crowded when cruise-ship passengers arrive, so get 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 99

99 Cozumel here early to stake out an ocean 0 Windward Side. Cozumel is beach palapa and rent snorkel gear. a barrier island, developed on only Swim with dolphins on-site with about 6% of its land. A trip along Dolphin Discovery (www.dolphin its dramatic, deserted, windward discovery.com; y 987/869-0314). Caribbean side is not to be missed. They also have a swim with sea lions The vegetation here is bent to the ($60) and a sea lions show ($5), for onshore winds or the occasional which reservations are not neces- hurricane that sweeps across the sary. @ 2 hrs. (families may want to terrain. The shoreline is jagged, spend the entire day). Carretera Sur. pocketed with rock pools. Swim- Admission $10. Open 8am–5pm. ming is dangerous except in a few small coves where rustic eateries 9 Punta Sur Ecological have sprung up. Drive or taxi the Reserve. A trip into Punta Sur loop around the southern half of the helps support conservation efforts, island in either direction. @ 1–2 hrs. but it’s of somewhat limited inter- round-trip. Eastern Shore Road. est to tourists with limited time. This ecological park has a small ! San Gervasio Ruins. These museum dedicated to marine navi- are the ruins of a Mayan holy city gation, the small Mayan ruins of where indigenous women once Caracol, a large lagoon, lighthouse, came to worship the moon goddess and wild landscape. Bring your own of fertility, Ixchel. Cortéz’s conquest snorkel gear. In summer, turtles of Mexico began here in 1519, after nest on the natural beaches, and he sacked the ruins and then cele- you can assist conservation efforts brated Mass. The five crudely built in the evenings (y 987/872-2940). temples are connected by raised Next to the entrance is the stone walkways, called sacbes in Paradise Café, a reggae bar and Mayan. It’s rarely crowded, so a walk restaurant with a cool blowhole under the shady trees can transport in the rocks. @ 2 hrs. Southern tip you to an earlier time. @ 1 hr. Car- of the island. Admission $10. Open retera Transversal (Av. Benito Juárez). 9am–5pm. Admission $6. Open 9am–5pm.

Water World

Cozumel’s reefs are amazing underwater mountain ranges— steep walls of coral, rock, and sponge that drop into an abyss, with colors and coral textures that rival the fall foliage of New England. After a Jacques Cousteau film in 1954 publicized the reef system, Cozumel became one of the top dive destinations in the world. The most famous reef dives are Yucab, a deep descent into more than a thousand coral formations of as high as 18m to 24m (60 to 80 feet) high; San Francisco, riddled with tunnels and large yellow tube sponges that hang over the depths; Santa Rosa, full of fish hiding in caves and delicate coral fans that sway in the current; Palancar, Cozumel’s best- loved dive site, where divers swim through enormous canyons of coral reef; and Punta Sur, with its giant Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), a cave entered at 15m (50 feet) and exited at 40m (130 feet). 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 100

100 Where to Stay

★★★ El Presidente Inter- Hotel Flamingo SAN MIGUEL Continental Cozumel SOUTH OF The Flamingo is a place to escape TOWN Expansively remodeled after the rush of the larger hotels. The Hurricane Wilma, the Presidente con- restaurant bar “Aqua” offers several Cities & Towns tinues to set Cozumel’s luxury stan- interesting and delicious dishes dards. It boasts a long, inviting beach prepared by a chef from Chile. with good snorkeling, two huge On the weekends they host live swimming pools with whirlpools, and Cuban music with dancing. Original

Charming gorgeous tropical gardens. The over- Cuban art and mosquito netting size rooms have a tasteful decor. The set the Havana-like mood. A sepa- beachfront, ground-floor rooms with rate top-floor penthouse sleeps private patios are the best on the four. Calle 6 Norte (near Av. 5). island. Two full restaurants have deli- y 987/872-0299. www.hotel cious dining, a la carte or buffet. flamingo.com. 22 units. Doubles Costera Sur Km 6.5. y 800/327-0200 $65–$75. AE, MC, V. in the U.S. or 987/872-9500. www. ★★★ = Occidental Grand cozumel.intercontinental.com. 253 Cozumel SOUTH OF TOWN The units. Doubles $360–$675, suites Tourist Board awarded the Occiden- from $850. AE, DC, MC, V. tal Grand a “Gran Turismo” rating— ★ Hacienda San Miguel SAN Mexico’s highest. This “village” style MIGUEL On a quiet side street, this all-inclusive beachfront hotel has appealing, Mexican hacienda-styled thatched palapa roofs and guest small hotel offers comfortable, fair- quarters arranged so pools and size rooms with a garden, central activity areas are central. The beach courtyard, and superb location—far here is pretty, and the hotel prides from the noise but close enough to itself on its four restaurants, two walk to the action downtown. A sep- huge swimming pools, a kid’s club arate town house is $150. Calle 10 for youngsters, and a dance club for Norte 500 (between Rafael Melgar adults. Carretera Chankanab Km and Av. 5). y 987/872-1986. www. 17.5. y 800/907-9500 in the U.S. haciendasanmiguel.com. 11 units. or 987/872-9730. www.occidental Studios $90, junior suites $100, hotels.com. 255 units. Doubles suites $165; rates include continen- $150–$229. AE, DC, MC, V. tal breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Cozumel After Dark

For a more lively evening, enjoy the salsa bands at Pura Vida, from Wednesday to Sunday. Go early for free dance lessons. y 987/878- 7831. Av. Rosado Salas and Av. 5 Sur. Oldies but goodies might like Tony Rome’s (y 987/872-0131; also on Av. Salas near Av. 5). Per- forming Sinatra and Bennett, Tony does two shows nightly, at 7:30 and 9:30pm. Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s and a Señor Frogs also have out- posts on Cozumel. Jello shots, anyone? 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 101

101 Where to Where to Dine

★★★ Cabaña del Pescador ★ La Choza SAN MIGUEL Dine (Lobster House) NORTH END MEXICAN Eating in an authentic LOBSTER The Cabaña is an island Mexican restaurant is a pleasure. legend that serves lobster the way it This local favorite sits under a big should be served: boiled with a hint thatched palapa roof with large of spices, accompanied by rich butter open windows, so you’re dining and sides of rice, veggies, and bread. almost al fresco. Crowds come for Lobster is the only dish on the menu, the inexpensive comida tipica, clas- priced by weight. The owner’s sic Yucatecan/Mexican food. Plat- brother has an equally ambient Mexi- ters of poblano chiles stuffed with can restaurant next door, called El shrimp and pollo en relleno negro Guaycamayo. Carretera Santa Pilar, (chicken in a blackened chili sauce) Km 4 (across from Playa Azul Hotel). are among the specialties. Calle No phone. Lobster by weight Rosado Salas 198 (Av. 10 Sur). $19–$30. No credit cards. Open daily y 987/872-0958. Entrees $9–$15. 6pm–10:30pm. AE, MC, V. Open daily 7am–11pm. ★ Capi Navigante SAN MIGUEL ★★★ La Veranda SAN MIGUEL SEAFOOD Without paying extra SEAFOOD/CARIBBEAN Choose the for a view of the water, dine on the Veranda for dinner if you’re tired of freshest seafood in one of Cozumel’s fried fish and Mexican food. The first mariscos restaurants, opened in inventive menu emphasizes tropical 1975. Specialties such as crab legs, ingredients and offers delicious butterfly shrimp, and lobster tail are West Indian– and European-infused made from family recipes. A favorite nouvelle cuisine in a magical setting. among locals, El Capi is proud of its Both indoor or outdoor veranda din- “Langosta Capi,” lobster cooked with ing areas are airy and appealing. secret spices. They offer attentive The Veranda mango fish has a deli- service in a simple nautical setting, cate fruit sauce. Calle 4 (between but the live mariachis can be a bit calles 5/10). y 987/872-4132. loud. Calle 10 Sur (between calles Entrees $14–$20. MC, V. Open daily 3/5). y 987/872-1730. Entrees 4:30pm–midnight. Reservations $7–$35. MC, V. Open noon–10pm. recommended.

Dining at the Occidental Grand Cozumel. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 102

102 Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) 19 1 The Ferry Pier i 15 14 Information 2 Zócalo Post office

3 e Malecón t r 4 o Zazil Ha Municipal Mercado N

Cities & Towns a Carlos Lazo 5 North Beach y a 5 l 6 Graveyard P Hidalgo 7 Mundaca’s Hacienda 4 Palacio 13 Municipal & 8 Turtle Sanctuary 6 21 Zócalo i Guerrer Madero

Charming 9 3 Dolphin Discovery Lopez Mateos o 10 Playa Lancheros 18 11 Garrafón Park Juárez Abasolo Avenida MatamorosRue 2 12 Lighthouse and Ruin da Medina Bravo

Morelos 22 Passenger Isla Mujeres ferry dock 1 Allende Town Plan Car ferry dock

Car ferry WHERE TO STAY to Punta See detail inset above Sam Hotel Francis Arlene 13 Hotel Secreto 14 Caribbean Na Balam 15 Sea Passenger Villa Rolandi 16 ferry to Puerto Airstrip WHERE TO DINE Juárez Bahia de Mujeres Bistro Frances 21 Casa O’s 20 Ferry to 17 Cancún Casa Rolandi Ariel Magaña Miramar 22 Baseball Park Rolandi’s Pizza 18 19 LagunaLaguna Zazil Ha 9 MakaxMakax Playa Pescador Mundaca Fortress N 16 17 7 8 Playa Lancheros 10 Gulf of Mexico Isla Mujeres

Mérida Cancún 20 El Garrafón YUCATÁN Panoramic Tower Isla National Underwater Cozumel Park 11 Campeche Playa QUINTANA 12 ROO Garrafón CAMPECHE Caribbean Lighthouse Chetumal Sea

0 100 mi GUATEMALA BELIZE 0 100 km 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 103

103 Isla Mujeres n 1517, when Francisco Hernández de Córdoba landed on Ithis sliver of an island off the coast of Cancún, he found figurines of women littering the shore, inspiring the name the island bears today. The statues—believed to have been offerings to Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility and the moon—suggest this land was sacred to

the Maya, whose resident descendants still fish bonito, mackerel, (Island of Women) and kingfish from the warm waters here. Until the 1970s, it was their primary source of income. Now Isla Mujeres has a sizeable tourist infrastructure—how could it not, so close to Cancún?—but it still feels like a small fishing village, with cobblestone streets, lively independent shops and restaurants, and no structures standing taller than the height of a royal palm (three stories). START: Cancún. Trip length: Isla Mujeres is 13km (8 miles) off the coast.

To reach Isla Mujeres from Cancún, 2 Zócalo (Central Square). take the Ultramar Ferry from Find a pickup game of basketball or Puerto Juárez (40 pesos), north of volleyball, or groups of local resi- Cancún’s downtown, or a catama- dents sitting and chatting under the ran from the Hotel Zone’s Embar- Zócalo’s scraggly trees. Around the cadero (150 pesos). If you drive, square, you’ll find the police station, take the car ferry from Punta Sam, Catholic church, and supermarket. 2km (1.25 miles) north of Puerto Avs. Madero and Hidalgo. Juárez. 3 Malecón. This seafront, 1 The Ferry Pier. The island’s paving-stone walkway meanders pulse is the parade of passenger along the dramatic Caribbean boats that run back and forth, from shore. Built in the late 1980s to 6am to 12:30am, from the mainland make the town more attractive to either Puerto Juárez or the new after Hurricane Gilbert destroyed Puerto Cancún terminal next door. many buildings, the walk was heav- The pier is rife with hawkers ped- ily damaged again by Hurricane dling souvenirs and snorkeling Wilma in 2005. Avs. Guerrero and tours. Seafood restaurants also line Madero. Laguna the beach. Walking is the best way 4 Municipal Mercado. This Makax to start exploring the island from warehouse-like market was once here. Any of the narrow cobbled where local residents did all their streets lead into the heart of the shopping, pre-Cancún. Some city, barely 4 blocks wide and 7 long. merchants still peddle wares from Av. Rueda Medina. inside stalls on weekends—includ- An aerial view of Isla Mujeres. ing a seamstress who will make custom shirts—but now the market is better known for the inexpensive little eateries under its arches. Most open early for breakfast and lunch. Next door is the post office. Av. Guerrero. Market open weekends from 8am until dark; eateries open daily 6am until dark. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 104

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effort to win the love of a young trigueña (brunette). Unfortunately for him, he was not to her taste. Unfortunately for visitors, not too much taste has gone into the garden restoration. Nevertheless it’s an interesting stop where you can eas-

Cities & Towns ily imagine how it might have looked in its prime. Mundaca died and is buried in Mérida, but his memorial tombstone is in the local cemetery A beach bar on Isla Mujeres. (see above). North end, about Km 4. Charming Admission $2. Open 10am–6pm. 5 = North Beach. A favorite 8 = Turtle Sanctuary. Isla’s among sunbathers (some of them sandy shores have long been a topless), Playa Norte is blessed with La breeding ground for endangered Isla’s widest beaches. The sand here— turtles. The most abundant species like all the Yucatán’s Caribbean shore- is the green turtle, which weighs as line—doesn’t get hot to the touch in much as 450 pounds and measures the sun. The North Beach’s warm, 1.5 meters (4–5 ft.). Isla’s fishermen shallow water affords the best swim- once slaughtered the enormous, ming for young kids, and its beach lumbering creatures for their meat, bars offer adults a prime spot to watch shell, and eggs. In the 1970s, they the sunset. Av Lopéz Mateos. decided to end the practice and pro- 6 Graveyard. Brightly decorated tect them instead by creating the with artificial flowers and colorful Centro de Investigaciones, an eco- mementos of those who have logical sanctuary and breeding passed, Isla’s pocket-sized grave- farm. With all the beachfront devel- yard is a jumble of above-ground opment occurring nearby, the sanc- tombs and monuments with praying tuary is needed now more than angels. It gets even more crowded ever. Since opening, funded solely when the living visit for the annual by private donations, the center has Day of the Dead celebration at the released more than 30,000 turtles. It end of October. If you’re on the makes a good stop for both children island at that time, plan an evening and adults. Take the guided tour. around it. Look for the pirate @ 1 hr. Sac Bajo. y 998/877-0595. Mundaca’s memorial tombstone Admission $3. Open daily 9am–5pm. with a carved skull and crossbones 9 = Dolphin Discovery. and the saying (translated from We have mixed feelings about the Latin): “As you are now, so once was ubiquitous dolphin swims available I. As I am now, so you will be.” (Walk straight in about 13 ft., turn right, and walk 10 ft. or so.) Av. Lopéz Travel Tip Mateos (between Hidalgo and When you want to explore more of Juárez). Open daily until sunset. the island than the downtown, rent 7 Mundaca’s Hacienda. Fer- a golf cart ($16/hr.) or motorbike, mín Mundaca de Marcheaga was a from any of the many vendors lovelorn pirate and slave trader who around town, and follow the shore gave up the sea in the mid–19th road that loops the island. Go slowly century and built once-beautiful and watch for taxi and car traffic. gardens on this hacienda, in an 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 105

105 Isla Mujeres beginning snorkelers. Aboveground, Garrafón is a relaxing day park that spills down in a series of terraces from the road to the water’s edge, run by the same people as Xcaret and Xel- Ha. Activities and attractions include

snorkeling, “Snuba” (a tankless ver- (Island of Women) sion of scuba diving in which you breathe through a long hose), zip-lines A hut on Isla Mujeres. to slide from the cliffs across the water, sun tanning decks, parrots, live to tourists along the Riviera Maya. music, inviting swimming pools, ham- But the joy on participants’ faces mocks in the shade, souvenir shops, and the respect they gain for the snack bars, and two big restaurants. sea-dwelling mammals go a long Great for families. Just outside the way to mitigate our misgivings. You entrance is a 50 meter–tall Panoramic must make advance reservations for Tower ($6) with a bird’s-eye view of this entertaining and educational fun the island. @ 2 hrs. (families may time, and it’s $100. But watching want to spend the entire day). South swimmers lifted from the water by a end. y 998/884-9422. Admission $30 pair of dolphins is priceless. Arrive or all-inclusive $60. Open 9am–5pm. an hour before your appointment for @ Lighthouse and Ruin. At the educational video, prior to your dawn, the sun first touches Mexican swim. @ 1 hr. or longer. Sac-Bajo. land at this tall, rocky, headland bluff y 998/877-0207. www.dolphin on the southeastern tip of the island. discovery.com. Open daily 8am–4pm. Here, overlooking the sea, the ancient 0 = Playa Lancheros. Maya built a temple (that may have Choose a spot under a palm tree, or also functioned as a watchtower/ a table under a shady palapa, and lighthouse) to Ixchel, female goddess enjoy cold drinks and inexpensive of fertility. Destroyed by Hurricane food at Playa Lancheros—the spot Gilbert, it has been restored to its where locals and tourists-in-the- previous ruined status; follow the know go to while away a leisurely cement path past anachronistic afternoon. Swim in its sheltered contemporary sculptures. A modern waters and order the beach shack lighthouse is on higher ground. From restaurant specialty, Tikin-Chic, a the ruin, drive back along the rough charcoal-grilled fresh fish filet, eastern Caribbean shore to stop and spiced with achiote. If fish isn’t your collect shells, past a house built like bag, you’re in luck; they also serve a giant conch shell. @ 20–30 min. Mexican food. Lanchero’s free Southern tip. beach has parking and plenty of safe swimming, gift and souvenir Ruins of a Mayan temple against the sea vendors, a restaurant/bar, plus a in Isla Mujeres. chance to get in the water with a sand shark; tips accepted. Basic bathrooms. Carretera Garrafón. No Phone. Open all day. Free admission. ! = Garrafón Park. Under- water, Garrafón is a National Marine Park with a reef that’s close to shore and full of colorful fish—perfect for 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 106

106 Where to Stay

★ Hotel Francis Arlene DOWN- the “Black Jaguar” is best known as TOWN The peach-color Francis a sanctuary for yoga, meditation, Arlene maintains a family-friendly and sunny libations at its Sunset ambience, handy kitchenettes, and Bar. Situated on a wide, palm-lined Cities & Towns reasonable prices. Built around a beach with shallow waters, it offers shady courtyard, a block in from the rooms facing the ocean or across Malecón, this neat little hotel has 26 the street in a garden setting with a rooms, 14 of them air-conditioned. A small swimming pool. Garden rooms few have ocean views; all are com- are newer, but all feature a terrace Charming fortable with tile floors and tiled bath- or balcony and hammocks. Yoga 1 rooms. Guerrero 7 (5 ⁄2 blocks inland classes are free for guests. Its from the ferry pier, between Abasolo popular Zazil Ha restaurant is and Matamoros). y 998/877-0310. upstairs/downstairs. Calle Zazil Ha www.francisarlene.com. 26 units. 118. y 998/877-0279. www.na Doubles $55–$65. No credit cards. balam.com. 31 units. Doubles $165– $275. AE, MC, V. ★★★ Hotel Secreto NORTH END A virginal white-on-white decor dis- ★★★ Villa Rolandi Hotel & tinguishes this ultra-modern bou- Beach Club SAC BAJO Stay at tique hotel from other beachfront this Swiss-Italian hotel if you want island digs. Nine suites overlook a personalized pampering in superb small garden pool surrounded by luxury accommodations, an infinity tropical gardens, and an outdoor pool, and a renowned, beachfront living area offers comfy couches gourmet restaurant. Each oversize, and places to dine. One of the best Mediterranean-style suite has an beaches in the Caribbean, on a half- ocean view, satellite music, a private moon cove, it is intimately ideal for balcony or large terrace, plus an indi- honeymooners. Punta Norte (behind vidual whirlpool. A dinner or lunch is the Convention Center). y 877/278- included in the room price. Fracc. 8018 in the U.S., 998/877-1039 in Lagunamar, SM 7, Mza. 75, Locals 15 Mexico. www.hotelsecreto.com. 9 and 16. y 998/877-0100. www.villa units. Doubles $190–$260 with conti- rolandi.com. 20 units. Doubles $360– nental breakfast. MC, V. $425 with breakfast and lunch or dinner, plus transportation from Cancún. ★★ = Na Balam NORTH END AE, MC, V. One of Isla’s most popular hotels,

The Hotel Secreto on Isla Mujeres. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 107

107 Where to Where to Dine

Bistro Frances DOWNTOWN phone. Entrees $5–$15. No credit EUROPEAN This storefront fea- cards. Open daily 7am–10pm. Dine tures economical and delicious Rolandi’s Pizza DOWNTOWN ITAL- meals. Open for breakfast or dinner IAN Rolandi’s mini-empire of hotels only, it’s casual with a French flair; and restaurants started with real they make a great “French Toast.” brick-oven pizzas and popular Italian Av. Matamoros. No phone. Entrees favorites. The extensive menu fea- $4–$11. No credit cards. Open tures many exotic pizza toppings 8am–noon, 6pm–10pm. as well as the more familiar. Other ★ Casa O’s GARRAFON SEAFOOD/ dishes include baked chicken, roast MEXICAN This romantic, palapa beef, seafood platters, and plenty of restaurant sits on a hill overlooking pasta. Always crowded. Av. Hidalgo the bay and the lights of Cancún. (Madero and Abasolo). y 998/ Their signature dish is live Spiney 877-0430. Entrees $4–$13. AE, MC, V. Lobster. A cage under the dock and Open daily 11am–11:30pm. a lobster pool next to the restaurant ★★ Zazil Ha NORTH END allow diners to choose their own CARIBBEAN/INTERNATIONAL catch. Carretera Garrafón (south Patrons can dine among palm trees end of Isla Mujeres, on the road to and gardens in the open-air dining Garrafón). y 998 888-0170. www. area or upstairs in an enclosed casaos.com. Entrees $10–$35. MC, V. veranda. The varied menu features Open daily 1pm–11pm. some excellent pasta, such as garlic ★★★ Casa Rolandi SAC BAJO shrimp in tequila sauce and vegetar- ITALIAN/SEAFOOD This is the ian options. Caribbean specialties island’s best restaurant, with a include cracked conch, coconut sail- sophisticated Northern Italian menu, fish, and jerk chicken. Calle Zazil-Ha accompanying quality wines, and 118 (in Hotel Na Balam at the end digs facing the beach in the Villa of Playa Norte). y 998/877-0279. Rolandi Hotel. The maitre d’ recom- Entrees $9–$16. AE, MC, V. Open daily mends the lamb, and we wouldn’t 7:30am–10:30am, 12:30pm–3:30pm, argue—except for the fact that 6:30pm–11pm. they do such a good job with fresh seafood and Italian cuisine. On the Fish with tomatoes, onions, and achiote. pier of Villa Rolandi, Lagunamar SM 7. y 998/877-0100. Entrees $9–$26. AE, MC, V. Open daily 11am–11pm. Reservations recommended. Miramar DOWNTOWN SEAFOOD/ MEXICAN Among the series of small fish restaurants next to the ferry dock, the modest Miramar is our favorite. It features a Mexican and seafood menu in a clean and appealing seafront setting. Sit and watch the fisherman unload their catch or the ferries disgorge their pale passengers. Av. Medina. No 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 108

108 Mérida

Gulf of Mexico Av. Perez Calle 21 Cancún Av. Colon YUCATÁN 23 Calle 33 30 Mérida Isla Cozumel Calle 35 Campeche QUINTANA Reforma Cities & Towns ROO CAMPECHE Caribbean Calle 37 Chetumal Sea Calle 39 0 100 mi GUATEMALA BELIZE 0 100 km Calle 41 Paseo de Montejo

Charming 18 Calle 43 Church Calle 45 i Information ParqueParque 17 SantaSanta AnaAna Pedestrians only Calle 47 21 Post office Calle 49 Calle 74 Calle 51 ParqueParque Calle 53 Calle 55 SantaSanta LLucLucíaucía Calle 72 16 15 Calle 70 Calle 57 28 27 22 ParqueParque Calle 68 15 SantiagoSantiago 24 26 i 29 14

Calle 66 31 ParqueParque dede lala MadreMadre 19 Calle 59 i ParqueParque 10 HidalgoHidalgo 9 10 11 Calle 62 13 Calle 64 12 Calle 61 i 25 PlazaPlaza 8 MayorMayor 2

7 Calle 58 6 1 Calle 56

3 Calle 54

Calle 60 Calle 63 5 4 20 Calle 65 PortalPortal dede MercadoMercado 0 1/4 mi GranosGranos LucasLucas dede GGálvezálvezlvez N Calle 67 0 0.25 km BazaarBazaar dede ArtesanAArtesaníasrtesaníaass PParquearque Calle 69 BusBus SanSan JJuanuan StationStation Calle 71 1 Plaza Mayor 11 Governor’s Palace WHERE TO STAY Case del Balam 22 2 Catedral de 12 City Museum Casa Mexilio 24 San Ildefonso 13 Parque Hildalgo Hotel Dolores Alba 20 3 MACAY Contemporary 14 Iglesia de Jesus Hotel Marionetas 21 Art Museum 23 15 Teatro Peón Contreras Hyatt Regency 4 La Casa de Montejo Misión de Fray Diego 25 15 Café Peón Contreras 5 El Arte Maya WHERE TO DINE 16 Parque Santa Lucía 6 Casa de las Artesanias Alberto’s Continental 26 17 Paseo Montejo 28 7 Palacio Municipal Cafetería Pop 18 Museum of Anthropology El Pórtico del Peregrino 27 8 El Nuevo Olimpo 30 19 Parque Zoológico La Casa del Paseo 31 9 Teatro Mérida El Centerario Restaurant Amaro 10 Dulcería y Sorbetería Villa María Hotel & 29 Colón Restaurant 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 109

109 Mérida he capital of Yucatán State and the largest city on the penin- Tsula, Mérida has European roots as old as the Spanish Conquest of the Americas. Older by a thousand years are its remains of Mayan civilization, whose temples in the ancient city of T’ho provided the building blocks for Mérida’s first colonial constructions. A trip to the Yucatán is not complete without a visit here. Stay for at least 2 days, though a week is better; it’s an excellent base for exploring the region. START: Valladolid or Cancún. Mérida is west of Valladolid on either the Cuota, or Mérida Libre, Highway 180. The toll road rejoins Highway. 180, a little under an hour before reaching the city. It’s west of Cancún on the toll road, about 6 hours on the Libre. Trip length: 154km (95.5 miles) from Valladolid; 320km (200 miles) from Cancún.

Parque Santa Ana 1 Plaza Mayor. Tall trees shade landmark, the massive Catedral of casual strollers, and vendors with San Ildefonso dominates the corner handcarts peddle sweets in this of calles 60 and 61, opposite the Parque block-sized park. The epicenter of Main Plaza. In 1561, almost 20 years Santa Lucía cultural activity in town, the plaza after founding the city, Spanish is the meeting place for families, Conquistadors began building this Parque lovers, and old friends who sit side severe, fortress-like cathedral using Santiago by side in S-shaped seats called con- stone blocks torn down from Mayan

Parque de la Madre fidenciales. Its cement walkways pyramids in the city of T’ho. Cool Parque throng with people on Sundays for and dark inside, the plainly adorned Hidalgo the Mérida en Domingo street fair cathedral is the oldest in the Ameri- and other festivals frequently hosted cas, completed in 1598. Plaza here. See the sidebar “Sunday in the The interior is as plain as the Mayor Park” for more details on happen- exterior, but its altars are draped in ings such as the dance along Calle colorful Mayan-inspired embroi- 62 that draws up to 1,000 people. A dered fabric. The main altar is 2-hour-long, air-conditioned Bus reputed to have the second largest Tour of the city leaves frequently retablo in the Americas. Over the Portal de Mercado from Calle 60, opposite the cathe- side door on the right is a painting Granos Lucas de Gálvez dral. Calles 60, 62, 61, and 63. of Ah Kulum Tutul Xíu, chief of the Bazaar de Xíu clan, who joined forces with 2 Catedral de San Ildefonso. Artesanías Francisco Montejo to defeat their Mérida’s most recognizable Parque Bus San Juan Station The Palacio del Gobierno in Mérida. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 110

110 until the 1940s, was covered by a distinctive glass roof. Nine air-conditioned salons hold the permanent art collection of mostly Yucatecan painters, notably Fer- nando Castro Pacheco and Fernando 1 García Ponce. @ ⁄2 hr.–1 hr. Open

Cities & Towns Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. Admission $3. 4 La Casa de Montejo. In 1542, fresh on the heels of conquer- ing the Maya at T’ho, Francisco Montejo, known as El Mozo (The Charming Catedral de San Ildefonso. Younger), began building this grand private home. It remained in the rivals, the Cocoms. Divide and con- Montejo family for more than 450 quer. To the left of the main altar is years until it became bank offices in Cristo de Ampollas (Christ of the the early 1970s. Flaunting his mili- Blisters), a replica of an original tary prowess and Spanish chauvin- carving made from a tree struck by ism, Montejo flanked the entrance lightning that burned but did not to his home with bas-reliefs of char. The original carving, looted in two Conquistadors, standing tri- the Revolution of 1915, was from umphantly with their feet on the the early 1600s. heads of two screaming Mayan war- A life-size diorama of the Last riors. The inscription on the plaque Supper is on display in a side chapel underneath reads, “The Adelante (open daily 8am–11am and 4:30pm– Don Francisco Montejo caused this 7pm). Prayer crosses brought by to be made in the year 1549.” The supplicants cover the Mexican Jesus, interior garden courtyard is in the and outside the front entrance, public area. Calle 63. Open daily. impoverished supplicants beg 5 El Arte Maya. Upstairs next to worshippers for pesos. @ 30 min. Montejo’s house is one of Mérida’s Calles 60 and 61. better-known handicrafts shops, El 3 MACAY Contemporary Art Arte Maya. It has been around for a Museum. Contemporary Mexican while, so you know they’ve got the artists have found a home in the goods—a wide selection of Yucate- Ateneo Peninsular (Athenian Penin- can handicrafts and gifts. Calles 63 sula), the former home of the bishop and 62. No phone. No credit cards. of Yucatán. Enter from the alleyway 6 Casa de las Artesanias. The alongside the cathedral, known as official home of local artisan ven- the Pasaje de la Revolución—which, dors, this large handicrafts shop is housed in Las Monjas (The Nuns), a Tourist Office restored former monastery, a block and a half off the main square. This On Calle 60, between calles 59 and interesting store occupies the front 57, is a helpful tourist information rooms of the colonial building, which office, behind huge wooden doors dates from the late 1500s, with a next to the Peón Contreras Theater. Moorish-style tower that was added They provide pamphlets, directions, in 1648. Shoppers will find generally and maps, and they answer ques- higher-quality Yucatán-made crafts tions in English. here, at slightly higher prices. The 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 111

111 Mérida monastery’s back courtyard serves 0 Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón. as a gallery with rotating folk and Mérida can be hot, humid, and hard fine art exhibits. @ 1 hr. Calle 63 on the feet. When the mercury is (between calles 64/66). Open high, nothing beats the refreshing Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–1pm. flavors served at this ice-cream and 7 Palacio Municipal. City hall sherbet shop. It’s under the colonial was built on the site of the last arches of the old Casa del Alguacil Mayan building in Mérida to be dis- (Magistrate’s House), opposite the mantled. The mid-19th-century edi- south corner of the Plaza. Calle 61 fice has a second-floor balcony with (at 62). No phone. views of the park. Sunday and Mon- day evenings it hosts special—very special—events. See the sidebar ! Governor’s Palace. The seat “Sunday in the Park,” below. Calle 62 of Yucatán’s state government, the (between calles 63/61). Palacio del Gobierno overlooks the entrance to the cathedral, at 8 El Nuevo Olimpo. This modern the corner of the Main Plaza. It’s “New Olympus” tries to recapture the open to the public, and wandering panache of its predecessor by com- around is encouraged. The building bining architectural styles and filling it dates to 1892, with arches covering with a bookstore, concert and gallery a walkway that connects the entire space, a round atrium, and a street- block. Decorating the walls of the side coffee shop. Check the bulletin interior courtyard, huge murals by board in front for concert informa- Yucatecan artist Fernando Castro tion; live music is performed almost Pacheco depict Mayan and Mexican nightly at 9pm. Calles 62 and 61. history. The second floor’s front 9 Teatro Mérida. An Edwardian room, Salon de Historia, provides Art Deco delight, this beautifully a good view of the cathedral, renovated chrome and glass-block plaza, and more huge paintings former movie house is now a center- by Castro. A musical performance stage theater and cinema. If some- takes place in the salon every thing is playing, don’t miss it. Calle Sunday at 11am. You’ll find a 62 (between calles 61/59). y 999/ small tourism office to your left as 924-0040. Admission usually $3, you enter. Calles 61 and 60. Open depending on the performance. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 9am–5pm.

A street corner in Mérida. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 112

112 Explanatory English texts accom- pany exhibits on Mérida’s history, including some fascinating old photos. @ 15–20 min. Calle 61 (near 58). Open Mon–Fri 10am–2pm and 4pm–8pm; Sun 10am–2pm. Free admission. Cities & Towns # Parque Hildalgo. On the east side of Calle 60, this popular little rectangular park was in the original city plan that Francisco Montejo laid out in 1542. It houses two venerable Charming hotels with outside dining areas. That makes it a very popular place, at any time of the day, to grab a bite to eat and to people-watch. Calle 60 Sunday dancers in the Main Plaza. at 59. $ Iglesia de Jesus. This charm- @ City Museum. The modest ing little church is one of Mérida’s Museo de la Cuidad faces the side older buildings, built in 1618 by the of the cathedral, toward the rear, in Jesuit Order. The Jesuits lost a the former church of San Juan Dios. power struggle to the Franciscans

Sunday in the Park

Long before tourists discovered Mérida’s charms, the city staged cultural events every day or night of the week. Since Sunday is traditionally “family time” in Mexico, the Mérida en Domingo celebration is the town’s biggest fiesta. But no matter when you visit, you’ll find something fun going on. The area around the Main Plaza on Sunday becomes a pedestrian-only street fair that fills the square and stretches up Calle 60 to Santa Lucia Park. You can walk, ride a horse-drawn carriage, or rent a pedal cart from in front of the cathedral. City-dwellers, country-folk, and foreign tourists alike pack the plaza to enjoy the daylong festivities. Families enjoy children’s entertainment, and everyone buys flea market arts and crafts from booths. Food stalls abound, and at 11am, a band plays under the arches of the Palacio Gobierno. At 11:30am, a police band starts up at Parque Santa Lucia, which also hosts its own book and stamp flea market from 10am to 2pm. At 1pm, a folkloric ballet company re-creates a mestizo (Mexican and Mayan) wedding under the arches of the Palacio Municipal. At 7pm, put on your dancing shoes and join as many as a thousand people who come to mambo, rumba, cha-cha, and dance meringues on the street in front of the Municipal Palace. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 113

113 Mérida Sundays. Calle 60 (between calles 59/57). % Teatro Peón Contreras. Designed in 1908 by Enrico Deserti, and built in the flush of wealth from the henequén trade, this magnificent theater is the city’s main concert and performance center. It’s noted for its opulent Carrera marble staircase and frescoed dome, restored to their original glory in the 1980s when Mérida’s tourism trade substantially increased. If something’s on, be sure to go. If not, peek inside at the lavish decor meant to rival the A fruit stall in the Mercado Municipal in great European theaters of its Mérida. time. Every Wednesday at 9pm, you after a Jesuit-educated Mayan can count on the Ballet Folklorico Indian, Jacinto Canek, started a from the University of Yucatán to rebellion. The Jesuits were expelled present a musical and dance inter- from the peninsula in 1761, but the pretation of Yucatán and its Roots. educational institution they left Unfortunately, the performance behind became the present-day is preceded by long introductory University of Yucatán. speeches and acknowledgements in The picturesque exterior is a favorite site for weddings. The faint markings on its exterior stone walls Horsing Around are Mayan carvings from the temple The corner of calles 60 and 61, that formerly stood here. A tiny along the north side of the cathe- shady park to the side, Parque de dral, is a good place to hire la Madre, has a replica statue of caselas—horse-drawn buggies— Renoir’s Madonna and Child. It’s for a romantic tour of the Centro a favorite selling spot for jewelry Historico. Listen for the clip-clop. vendors and artists, especially on

The streets of Mérida. 10_081198 ch06.qxp1/10/075:59PMPage114 114 Charming Cities & Towns Admission toBalletFolklorico, $5. Calle 60(between calles59/57). stars.national andinternational Spanish. Checktheschedulefor mansion. onSpanishcolonial ornament Exterior eras, and appealof market umbrellas accentthecharm Wrought-iron tableswithromantic % tourist officeandContreras Theater. pedestrian-only alleyway tothe next toseeorbeseenonthis drink, oracool puccino, alightsnack, the historiccenter. Orderatallcap- in thebody. Themerchandise at counts, sobuythebest($35andup); lookfor fine and plentifulstring town ofTixcocob, where family every intown makes them.Quality craft shopsandbystreet vendors whocomeinfrom thenearby ones are You’ll themostcomfortable. findbothtypessoldinhandi- durable andcolorfulvariety are madefrom nylon,butthecotton looms. You sleepinthisstyleofhammockonthediagonal.Themost hammocks madeofcottonornylon,woven byhandonwooden Yucatán’s istheproduction mostfamous of cottageindustry at 73,6blockssouthofthesquare, isconsistentlyhigh-end. Café Peón Contreras. an al fresco Café Peón Contr- cafe in the heart of cafe intheheart Swing Time Hamacas ElAguacate, ^ park, park, tourists alike. It’s popularwithlocalsand very readings, andfolkpoetry dancing. Yucatecan andMexican songs, musical performance oftypical Begun in1965,it’s afree vocal and nade, its Thursday evening 11:30am. Theparkisbestknown for police bandperformance at runs here from 10amto2pm,witha a stampandused-bookfleamarket on mostweeknights. Every Sunday, takes place Musical entertainment poets frame itssmallcourtyard. arcaded terrace. BustsofYucatán streets. Thetourisabout$8. insideon the narrowand arms Spanish. Besure tokeep your head and 7pm.It’s narrated mostlyin from here dailyat10am,1pm,4pm, ley Tour” for a2-hour“ Mérida. Now it’s thedeparture point stagecoach runintheearlydays of Lucia Park was oncetheendof more upscalenow. Theareasurrounding isalot district. Caribbean slaves who lived inthe built in1575for theAfricanand The smallchurch oppositethe The tinyparkisbordered byan Parque SantaLucia. Iglesia deSantaLucia, which starts aroundwhich starts 9pm. of thecity, whichleaves Discover MéridaTrol- Calles 60and55. Yucatán Sere- on Calle58 Santa was 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 115

115 Mérida & Paseo Montejo. Mérida’s most fashionable district is the broad, tree-lined boulevard Paseo de Montejo, and its surrounding northern neighborhood. Built in the boom times of the henequén indus- try, it is reminiscent of the Champs d’Elysee in Paris. It was once lined on both sides by stately, Belle- Époque mansions owned by Mérida’s elite, but many have been converted into offices and fine restaurants. It’s a popular place to hire a casela, for a horse-drawn buggy ride—especially in the Local handicrafts. evening, when the remaining private homes turn on their lights, affording Regional de Antropología, is housed a glimpse of the luxurious interiors in a magnificent mansion halfway within. The Paseo begins at Calle 47 up the Paseo de Montejo. Enrico and parallels Calle 60, 7 blocks Deserti, the architect of the Teatro north of the Main Plaza. In the cen- Peón Contreras, designed and built ter of the traffic circle with Avenida the place from 1909 and 1911 for Colon, a grand memorial by General Francisco Cantón Rosado. Columbian sculptor, Rumulo Rozo, Rosado relished its beauty for only a Monumento a la Patria, depicts few years before he died in 1917; it Mexico’s history in stone. Paseo de subsequently served as the official Monjejo (from Calle 47 to Av. Colon). residence of Yucatán’s governors until it was converted to this * Museum of Anthropology. museum. The lavish interior archi- One of Mérida’s most important tecture warrants a tour of the scholarly resources, the Museo inside. The Plaza Grande after dark. The Anthropology Museum’s main focus is the peninsula’s pre- Columbian culture. Its permanent exhibitions, captioned only in Span- ish, start with fossil mastodon teeth and then trace Yucatán’s history from the earliest pre-Columbian cultural customs to the recent excavations of Mayan ceremonial sites, as well as everyday contemporary life of the indigenous people. Exhibitions illustrate a number of fascinating Mayan customs. They used to tie boards to baby’s heads, for instance, to reshape them in an oblong slant considered beautiful. They also filed or perforated teeth to insert jewels. Enlarged photos of excavations give visitors a different perspective on the ruined Mayan 1 cities. @ 1 ⁄2 hrs. Paseo de Montejo 10_081198 ch06.qxp1/10/075:59PMPage116 116 Charming Cities & Towns Centerario. Tues–Sun 8am–8pm.Admission$4. packed withfamilies onSundays. of Mérida,attheendCalle59.It’s western fringeofthecolonialcenter children’s amusementparkisonthe ( and Calle43. Young menintraditional costume. the Teatro Mérida,ahalfblocknorth. cinema isshown attheNuevo Olympio,Calle62,onthesquare, and Contreras, calles60and57,Teatro Ayala, calles60and61;art Performing nightlife downtown arts canbefound attheTeatro Peón clubs andbars inthefashionable neighborhoodsaround thePaseo. soyoung professionals wildafterdark, particularly frequent dance For allitscultural happenings, Mérida’s historiccenterisn’t 55/57). rant ElNuevo Tucho who spontaneouslygetuptodancethebandisfound at music nightly. Mexican musicinalarge diningroom filledwithpatrons Pancho Villamustaches,sombreros, and bandoliers. There’s live great for drinking,schmoozing,andgoodTex-Mex grub.Waiters wear Calle 59between cantinarestaurant calles60/62)isalight-hearted your tummy’s convenience ofcalles59and62. onthecorner = If you take yourself don’t seriously, Parque ZoológicoEl La Habana y This zooandyoung 999/923 Mérida AfterDark is apopularrestaurant andcafe, open24hours for - 0557. Open ( y 999/924-2323, Calle60between calles Zoo it’s not. the animals.Let’s TheBronx face it: the confinedconditionsofmany walks. Butanimallovers may bray at andgrown-upsshady park, love the train thatdrives themaround the Little kidslove thenarrow gauge Calle 59.Admission$2. Pancho’s @ 1 hr. Av. Itzáesand ( y 999/923-0942, Restau- 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 117

117 Where to Where to Stay

★★ Casa del Balam HISTORIC Stay CENTER House of the Jaguar features 51 appealing junior suites in the gorgeous ancestral home of the Yucatán’s earliest pioneer families. Bedrooms are large with wrought- iron accents and Spanish furnishings. With its dependable quality and sensitive combination of old and new, the del Balam is the epitome of colonial class in the historic center, right next to the Teatro Peón Contreras. Calle 60 (at 57). y 800/624-8451 in the U.S. or 999/924-2150. www. casadelbalam.com. 51 units. Doubles $120. AE, MC, V.

★★ Casa Mexilio HISTORIC CENTER The Casa Principal. This very unusual bed-and-breakfast offers uniquely decorated rooms at Hotel Dolores Alba HISTORIC different levels of what was once two CENTER Attractive, comfortably separate houses, now connected by a large rooms, air-conditioning, an warren of hallways, catwalks, and hid- inviting swimming pool, and free den patios. It boasts lots of greenery, parking are yours at this clean, a small, cenote-style pool, rooftop ter- family-run hotel, 4 blocks off the race, and an intimate bar with eclectic square. It’s an excellent value, and decor. Calle 68 (between calles 57/59). they also have an economy hotel y 800/538-6802 in the U.S. or 999/ near Chichén Itzá. Calle 63 (between 928-2505. www.mexicoholiday.com. calles 52/54). y 999/928-5650. 9 units. Doubles $55–$75, penthouse www.doloresalba.com. 100 units. $120. MC, V. Doubles $60. No credit cards.

Hacienda Living

Symbols of lavish Mexican country estate living, haciendas (ranch estates) are scattered throughout the Yucatán peninsula, and they make for the most luxurious yet authentic accommodations in the peninsula. These large architectural gems fell into disrepair after the henequén trade went bust in the early 1900s. Luckily, many have come back to life as luxurious hotels, some with spa amenities that envelop guests in sensuous surroundings. Our favorite is the 18th-century Hacienda Xcanatun (y 999/941-0213; www.xcanatun.com), a great place to be pampered, north of Mérida. Beautifully restored on lovely grounds, its 18 suites offer a memorable alternative to a hotel. It’s worth a visit just to dine at the restaurant on the premises. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 118

118 Cities & Towns Charming

Garden Palapa Mayan massage table.

★★ Hotel Marionetas HISTORIC Hyatt quality and quiet rooms. Calle CENTER In our experience, the 60 (Av. Colón). y 800/223-1234 in the dreamy blue Marionetas is one of U.S. or 999/942-1234. www.merida. the most successful conversions of a regency.hyatt.com. 299 units. Double colonial mansion into a boutique $155–$190. AE, DC, MC, V. hotel. Intimate rooms, with colorful ★★ Misión de Fray Diego Mérida tile floors, are elegantly deco- HISTORIC CENTER Behind a tall rated and very comfortable. A stay at 17th-century wall and thick wooden this hotel is a sensual pleasure. Calle portal, this small boutique hotel suc- 49 (between calles 62/64). y 999- cessfully combines a historical ambi- 928-3377. www.hotelmarionetas. ence with modern conveniences. com. 8 units. $85. AE, MC, V. Rooms surround a small central ★★ Hyatt Regency PASEO courtyard pool. Calle 61 (between Rising 17 stories, the Hyatt is not hard calles 64/66). y 866/639-2933 in the to spot in Mérida’s northern skyline, U.S. and Canada or 999/924-1111. 1 block off the Paseo de Montejo, in www.lamisiondefraydiego.com. the most fashionable neighborhood 26 units. Doubles $95. AE, MC, V. in town. Count on it for dependable

Class-y B&B

Chef David Sterling will teach you to cook Yucatecan, Mexican, or International meals in a beautifully restored colonial home, through his Los Dos Cooking School and B&B (Calle 68 between calles 63 and 65, www.los-dos.com; doubles: $95–$125, one jr. suite and one suite). 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 119

119 Where to Where to Dine

Liquid Lunch Dine

Mérida and the Yucatán have a few homegrown liquors: Mon- tejo and Leon Negra are two excellent beers brewed in Mérida, and Xtabentun is a Mayan liqueur made from honey and anise. The best is Merida’s Argaez brand in a blue bottle.

Alberto’s Continental HISTORIC La Casa del Paseo PASEO MEXI- CENTER REGIONAL/SEAFOOD CAN/INTERNATIONAL Set in one of Alberto’s features romantic candlelit the large mansions on the Paseo de dining in a courtyard framed by Montejo, La Casa offers excellent Moorish arches and elegant mudejar- food and service. Medallones Paseo, patterned tile floors. The restaurant is medallions of beef in three sauces, is in a colonial-era building built with the a worthy specialty. Paseo de Montejo stones of original Mayan temples. Try (between Calle 35 and Av. Colón). the Lebanese sampler platter and y 999/920-0528. Entrees $9–$18. AE, stuffed fish Celestún. Calle 64 (at 57). MC, V. Daily 1pm–midnight. Reserva- y 999/928-5367. Entrees $9–$22. tions recommended on weekends. AE, MC, V. Open daily 1pm–11pm. Restaurant Amaro HISTORIC Cafeteria Pop HISTORIC CENTER CENTER MEXICAN/VEGETARIAN MEXICAN Plan a revolution under This romantic restaurant with an the noses of the bourgeois at El Pór- open-air courtyard dining room, tico next door. This cafe, frequented candlelit tables, and roving trouba- by Yucatán University students and dours features vegetarian dishes on academics, serves light meals and a a mostly Mexican menu. Try the bottomless cup of coffee. Opens queso relleno, pepper stuffed with early, closes late. Calle 57 (between cheese. Calle 59 (between calles calles 60/62). No phone. Entrees 60/62). y 999/928-2451. Entrees $3–$9. No credit cards. 6am–10pm. $6–$14. AE, MC, V. 9am–10pm. El Pórtico del Peregrino HIS- Villa María Hotel & Restaurant TORIC CENTER MEXICAN/REGIONAL HISTORIC CENTER INTERNATIONAL/ El Pórtico is a favorite among visitors BISTRO This gorgeously restored for its central location, charm, com- 17th-century mansion hotel is the fort, and distinctive Mérida flavor. city’s only authentic fine dining bistro. The interior features a lovely garden It serves great cuts of meat and gen- for dining al fresco and two air-condi- erous salads. Try the mouthwatering tioned dining rooms. They serve a Moroccan Chicken in lemon, olives, good pollo pibil, chicken cooked in and spices, with rice and dried fruit. banana leaves until it falls off the Calle 59 (at 68). y 999/923-3357. bone. Calle 57 (between calles 60/62). www.villamariamerida.com. Entrees y 999/928-6163. Entrees $6–$15. $9–$18. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat AE, MC, V. Daily noon–11pm. 2pm–midnight, Sun 2pm–10pm. Reservations recommended. 10_081198 ch06.qxp1/10/075:59PMPage120 120 Charming Cities & Towns Playa 1 11pm (Ultramar boatsare faster hourlybetweenries depart 6amand town houses,andagolfcourse. Fer- with all-inclusive hotels,residential Playacar, a planneddevelopment south,you’lla bitfarther endupin endofPlayaern town; delCarmen (muelle) miles) southofCancúnonHighway 307. of toplesssunbathing. European influence,withtheregion’s mostnonchalantacceptance first timewillbeseducedbyitslively touristscene,finebeach, and village intoasocialandcommercial mecca;thosewhocomefor the Those whoknew itbefore may lamentitsgrowth from sleepy harbor rants, andshops—despitetheincreasing preponderance ofthem. small, pedestrian-friendlybeachtown withunique hotels,restau- changing. Butfor Playa allitsdevelopment, retains thefeel ofa P La TarrayaRestaurant John Gray’sPlace El Chino Casa Mediterránea WHERE TODINE Treetops & Restaurant Jungla CaribeHotel Hotel PlayaMaya Deseo Hotel WHERE TOSTAY 4 Campeche 5 3 2 2 1 CAMPECHE Playa delCarmen Gulf ofMexico Bus Station Coffee Press Fifth Ave.(AvenidaQuinta) Central Plaza Ferry Pier Ferry Pier. Mérida of phenomenal;it’s adestinationthat’s constantlygrowing and laya’s growth inthelast dozenyears Post Office Av. 40 12 for Cozumelis atthesouth- Chetumal 8 YUCATÁN QUINTANA 10 9 ROO del Carmen

7 11 The main ferry pier The mainferry 13 Calle 1 0 100km 0 14 Caribbean

Av. 30 Cancún Sea 100 mi START: TTo Highway307 Av. 25 Bus Station New o Airport Cancún. Trip length:Playa is70km(43

H i g Avenida Juárez h

w Calle 2 Calle 4 a Calle 6 Av. 20 y 2 stoop sitters. Thebeachinfront Chiapas, fruitsaladsellers, and out for trinket vendors from ground, thetown plazaisahang- small parkwithachildren’s play- ets atanyofthekiosks. than Barcos Mexico). Purchase tick-

3 Calle 1 0 7 0 0 Central Plaza.

Av. 15 Calle 12 12 Calle 14 Calle 10 Bus Station Calle 8 has beennothingshort Riviera 200 yds

Calle 1 Calle Av. 10 200 m 5 10 11 PPedestriansedestrians onlyonly 3 5A Av. 5A Av. 13

N 9 Set uplike a 2 4 8 14 1st N. 7 to Cozumel Ferry Pier (Muelle)

1 Caribbean Sea 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 121

121 Playa del Carmen

The streets of Playa del Carmen after dark.

hosts sometimes-competitive Coffee Press. Grab a cup of hard-body volleyball and soccer 4 y l

n hand-pressed joe and a muffin at the

o games. Av. 5 and Juárez.

s Coffee Press. The town’s favorite n a i 3 Avenida Quinta. Fifth Avenue r coffee stop sells paperbacks to read t s e begins here and feels like it may while you eat breakfast or lunch d e someday stretch all the way to New

P near the beach. Calle 2 (between 5th York, it’s developing so fast. From Ave. and the beach). No phone. morning until long into the evening, pedestrians stroll, shop, dine, drink, shop some more, and people-watch 5 Bus Station. If you’re return-

To Highway 307 on Playa’s signature street. The ing to Cancún or the airport, you gorgeous colorful rayon parejas for won’t have to wait long for buses, sale in many shops used to be made which arrive and depart every 10 right in Playa, but most come from to 15 minutes. They also stop at Indonesia now. They’re still a best Puerto Morelos, and Mayab buses buy by virtue of the huge selection bound for Tulum depart here as and sexy styles. Shopping dominates well. Av. Juárez & 5th Avenue. (For the pedestrian-only avenue, but journeys to destinations farther you’ll also find a plethora of unique afield, you’ll likely use the station on and rewarding restaurants, bars, and Av. 20 [at Calle 12]. y 998/884- boutique hotels. Just a block off the 5542.) y 987/803-0109. The fare to beach. the airport or Cancún is about $7.

Playa After Dark

Fifth Avenue has a long lineup of bars; one of the most popular is Karen’s Bar & Grill between calles 2 and 4. Follow the sound of the crowd and canned music. A rock ’n’ roll crowd frequents the age- old tropical beach bar, the Blue Parrot, which hosts live music at night. It’s on the sand at the end of Calle 12 (y 984/873-0083). The trendy Mambo Café swings to salsa on Calle 6 between avs. 5/10 (y 984/803-2656). Across the highway, Alux (y 984/803-0713) is a unique nightclub in a large cavern with two dramatically lit chambers. The music is varied, with occasional belly dancers, and rarely a cover charge. It’s worth the trip just to see it (open Tues–Sun 7pm–2am; take Av. Juárez across Highway 307 and go 2 blocks on your left). 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 122

122 Where to Stay

★★★ Hotel Deseo DOWNTOWN the rest. Rooms are relatively large; a The Deseo is perhaps the most desir- few have private garden terraces with able hotel in a town where being hip Jacuzzis, and others have balconies is a raison d’etre. The owners have facing the beach. On the beach Cities & Towns tried to design an adults-only envi- (between calles 6/8). y 984/803- ronment that fosters social interac- 2022. www.playa-maya.com. 20 units. tion. The open-air lounge plays a Doubles $112–$145. AE, MC, V. central role; it’s faced on two sides ★ Jungla Caribe Hotel &

Charming by guest rooms and combines the Restaurant DOWNTOWN Smack functions of lobby, restaurant, bar, dab on 5th Avenue, 1 block from the and pool. The raised platform also beach, La Jungla stands out with features a self-serve kitchen and unique neoclassic tropical decor, daybeds for sunning or enjoying an comfortable rooms, and plenty of late- evening drink. Clientele are predomi- night activity. All but the eight single nately 25- to 45-year-olds. Rooms rooms are large, with gray-and-black are comfortable, visually striking, marble floors, air-conditioning, and and somewhat luxurious, but without big bathrooms with bidets. Catwalks the isolating amenity of TV. Under lead to the tower suites in the back the thick, king-size beds, a pullout (the quietest). A notable Mexican drawer holds nighttime necessities restaurant wraps around a terrace such as incense, earplugs, and facing Calle 8, and the hotel’s interior condoms. Av. 5 (Calle 12). y 984/ courtyard has an attractive cenote- 879-3620. www.hoteldeseo.com. 15 style pool, surrounded by vegetation units. Doubles $180–$200. AE, MC, V. and shaded by a gigantic ramón tree ★ Hotel Playa Maya DOWNTOWN covered with large-leaf vines. Av. 5 Guests enter Hotel Playa Maya from (at Calle 8). y 984/873-0650. www. the sandy shore—an intriguing inno- jungla-caribe.com. 25 units. Doubles vation for a “beach hotel,” differenti- $90, suites $120–$130. AE, MC, V. ating it from other lodgings on this ★ Treetops DOWNTOWN The busy street scene. A quiet location; rooms at Treetops encircle a patch of reasonable prices; friendly, helpful preserved jungle (and a small cenote) management; and attractive, com- that shades the hotel and lends it the fortable rooms also set it apart from proper tropical feel. Long-time Playa travelers often choose this hidden The lounge at the Hotel Deseo. hotel, a half-block from the beach, because it’s a remnant of the Playa del Carmen that has all but disap- peared amid breakneck development. Rooms are ample, with balconies or terraces that overlook the greenery. One of the upper suites has the feel of a treehouse. The other two suites are large, with fully appointed kitchenettes. The owners are American. Calle 8 (near the beach). y 984/873-0351. www. treetopshotel.com. 18 units. Doubles $50–$85, suites $125–$150. MC, V. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 123

123 Where to Where to Dine

★★★ Casa Mediterránea The breast of duck and rack of lamb Dine DOWNTOWN ITALIAN Tucked away are mouthwatering. Calle Corazon on a quiet patio off Quinta Avenida, (5th Av.). y 984/803-3689. Entrees this small restaurant with a welcom- $10–$36. No credit cards. Open ing, relaxed atmosphere, serves deli- Mon–Sat 6pm–11pm. Reservations cious well-cooked food. The menu is recommended. mostly Northern Italian with several La Tarraya Restaurant DOWN- dishes from other parts of Italy. TOWN SEAFOOD It’s right on the Except for the penne and spaghetti, beach and owned by a fishing fam- the pasta is homemade, and the ily, so you know that fresh catch selection of Italian wines is broad. here is superb. It’s also one of the Their salads are good. For an entrée, oldest places around; a sign reads, try the fish and shrimp ravioli or “The restaurant that was born with penne alla Veneta. Av. 5 (between the town.” The ambience here is calles 6/8). y 984/876-3926. definitely unpretentious; it’s just a Entrees: $8–$15. No credit cards. wood hut directly on the white Open daily 1pm–11pm. Reservations beach. But that’s what paradise recommended in high season. is, isn’t it? Calle 2 (at the beach). El Chino DOWNTOWN MEXICAN y 984/873-2040. Entrees $4–$7, No, it is not a Chinese restaurant. whole fried fish $8 per kilo. No credit Unlike a better-known eatery with a cards. Open daily 7am–9pm. more Mayan name, El Chino is the place to have authentic Yucatecan/ Fajitas at one of the many sidewalk cafes Mexican fare, without a faux ambi- on Quinta Avenida in Playa del Carmen. ence and pricey menu. This side street, family-run restaurant seats diners next to broad arched windows under a tall palapa roof. The visible kitchen in back prepares an extensive selection of Mexican and local Yucatecan specialties such as poc chuc, a tenderized piece of pork marinated in sour orange, served with rice and beans and pickled onions. Av. 4 (between calles 10/15). No phone. Entrees $6–$13. No credit cards. Open daily 7am–11pm. ★★★ John Gray’s Place DOWN- TOWN INTERNATIONAL John Gray, a former executive chef with Ritz Carlton worldwide hotels, pegged his culinary reputation on his own dinner-only restaurants along the Riviera Maya. After the success of his Puerto Morelos restaurant, he opened this one in Playa, off 5th Avenue, on shady Calle Corazon. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 124

124 Valladolid

Calle 42 Calle 40 0 0.25 mi

Calle 44 Calle 35 CalleN 35 0 0.25 km Calle 38 8

Calle 37 Calle 37 36 Calle Calle 34 Calle

Calle 46 10 14 17 9 7 32 Calle

Cities & Towns Calle 50 Calle 39

Calle 39 30 Calle Calle 48 Calle 13 16 15 Plaza Calle 41 3 Principal 5 6 Calle 41 11 1 2 4

Calle 52 Calle 43 Calle 43

Charming Calle 41A Gulf of Mexico Cancún

Calle 40 Calle 45 Calle 42 Mérida YUCATÁNCalle 45

Calle 47 Isla Valladolid Cozumel 12 Calle 47 Calle 49 Calle 51Calle 50 Calle 47 Campeche QUINTANA Post office ROO CAMPECHECalle 49 Caribbean Chetumal Sea 1 Main Plaza 8 Municipal Mercado 2 9 0 100 mi Cathedral of Yalat GUATEMALA BELIZE San Gervacio 10 Mercado de Artesanías 0 100 km 3 Municipal Palace 11 Calle 41A WHERE TO STAY & DINE 4 El Kabah Café 12 Church of San Bernardino Bazar 17 5 San Roque Museum of Siena & Ex-Convento El Mesón del Marquéz 14 6 Church of Santa Ana of Sisal 13 María de la Luz 15 7 Cenote Zací Cenotes Xke’ken & Samula Plaza Maya 16

his 16th-century colonial-era city is situated in the very heart of Tthe Yucatán—close enough to Cancún and Mérida to enjoy it as a day trip from either city, but distant enough to offer an authentic experience of living history. Maya from the countryside still come to town dressed in traditional clothes, and the unhurried pace of life grants visitors the leisure to stumble upon unexpected pleasures. It’s compact, so you can follow the sights listed below as a walking tour. START: Cancún. Trip Length: Valladolid is 120km (74 miles) west of Cancún, accessed from Mérida Libre, Highway 180, or from its own exit on the Cuota. First-class buses run from Cancún’s downtown bus terminal to the ADO terminal on calles 39 and 46. From Playa del Carmen, return to Cancún on Highway 307 and take the Cuota (toll road); exit before the airport.

1 Main Plaza. Spanish Conquista- then tore them down, building over dors led by Francisco de Montejo them the colonial buildings surround- founded Valladolid (Ba-ya-do-leed) in ing this city’s shady main plaza. It’s a 1543. Local Mayan temples reminded center of activity on Sundays, and them of the Roman ruins in Val- every day Mayan women line the ladolid, Spain, so they took them as north side to sell traditional dresses, inspiration for the town’s name and called huipils, as well as Yucatecan 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 125

125 Valladolid

Calle 41A in Valladolid.

hammocks. Prices are good, with The upstairs windows yield a good room to negotiate. The city is start- view of the square. On Sunday ing a trolley tour of the city, leaving evenings, a small municipal band from the plaza on Calle 41; inquire in concert takes place under the the tourist office. At dusk, birds fill arches. The city’s small tourism the plaza’s trees, and their squawks office is housed there, and a bank fill the air. Calles 39 & 40. and the post office are next door. @ 2 Cathedral of San Gervacio. 15 min. Calles 40 and 41. Catholic churches built on central squares almost always face east, but 4 El Kabah Café. The upstairs local legend has it that this cathedral, corner balcony, with a view of the constructed in 1706 to replace an park, is an inviting spot for a cup of earlier one from 1545, faces south as good Chiapas coffee, cappuccino, punishment because thieves stole or a cold ice cream. Enter this small from the altar. It’s an unlikely sce- coffee shop on Calle 41 and climb nario but entirely possible. Its thick the old marble stairs. Calle 41. stone walls failed to prevent the No phone, no credit cards. Maya from sacking it in the Caste War uprising of 1847, which began in 5 Valladolid. It’s still large enough to San Roque Museum. This tiny impress with a towering retablo city museum is housed in a former hospital, Name of Jesus. The best behind the altar. @ 15 min. Calles 41 and 42. No phone. Open daily. part of a visit here is the quiet memorial park in its backyard, a great place 3 Municipal Palace. Halfway up to take a break and sit under shade the worn stone steps to the second trees. @ 30 min. Calle 41 and 38. floor, City Hall proudly displays a No phone, free admission. coat of arms that features a list of 6 Conquistadors who founded the Church of Santa Ana. “Valiant City” in 1543, after defeat- La Iglesia de los Indios—the little ing the native Maya who defended church in Barrio Santa Ana on Zací (the Maya name for the city, Calle 41 at 34—was a chapel built meaning White Hawk). Both city exclusively for the Mayan Indians in symbols were incorporated into the the early days of Valladolid. In 1847, shield. The arches and open center it played an ignominious role in courtyard style are typically period Yucatán’s long and bloody caste Spanish. On the second floor, large war. In January of that year, wealthy paintings depict Yucatán’s history. hacienda owners armed the local 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 126

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7 = Cenote Zaci. With over- hanging vines and dark depths, this cenote provided the ancient Maya with water in the original town of Zací. All that heavy foliage and mature trees give the small park surrounding it the look and feel of natu- Cities & Towns ral jungle. A local man cliff-dives in the murky green water for tips. Zací A horse and buggy in Valladolid. features a palapa roof restaurant serving Mexican food. They also Maya to help them drive the Mexi- have a small, inconsequential zoo. Charming can Army out of the peninsula, so Calles 37 and 36. Admission $2. they could declare independence. 8 Municipal Mercado. Espe- But the Maya turned on their arms cially on Sunday mornings, Mayan suppliers and sacked the city. After campesinos from outlying villages the Yucatán seceded, a local Indian come into town to shop and sell named Antonio Ay was accused of their wares at this regional market- plotting an Indian rebellion. To place—a routine part of life in Val- avenge the earlier hostilities and to ladolid since its founding. Food and make him an example, Valladolid’s produce predominate, but only real- authorities shot him against the side ists should venture into the meat of the chapel. As word of his death market section. Look especially for spread, the Maya who had hidden home-harvested honey, sold in recy- their firearms began attacking, first cled plastic bottles. The place makes remote haciendas in the country- a great photo-op. Calles 37 and 32. side, then small towns, and finally Valladolid. This deadly revolt 9 Yalat. Perhaps the best gift became known as the Caste War, shop in the Yucatán, Yalat is owned after the custom of assigning levels by a North American who sells of purity to people’s lineage. unique folk art from all over Mexico In less than a year, Valladolid’s but specializes in the Yucatán. Inside citizenry once again were slaugh- her corner shop, you’ll find artist- tered and survivors fled in panic to created woven tapestries, ceramics, the fortified walled cities of Mérida polychrome vases, shell, stone and and Campeche. About to drive the Yucatecans entirely out the penin- The Convento de San Bernardino. sula, the Maya did a strange thing. As was their ancient custom, war was a seasonal event. When corn- planting time came around, they called a “time out” to attend to their farms. The desperate Yucatecans agreed to rejoin the Mexican state in exchange for soldiers to fight the Mayan insurrection. Heavily armed garrisons, which included American mercenary soldiers, fought the dis- organized Maya for years. Valladolid went back to the peaceful, provin- cial small town it is today. Calle 41 at 34. No phone. Free admission. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 127

127 Valladolid

Cenote Zaci.

silver jewelry, black pottery, bead the oldest major Spanish buildings in work, and hand-embroidered huipils. the Yucatán, and two of the finest Calles 39 and 40. No phone. examples of colonial architecture. Inside, original 16th- and 17th-cen- 0 Mercado de Artesanías. tury paintings survive on the walls This corner colonial building houses above the side altars. stalls around a center courtyard that Ask for admission to the quiet sell traditional and de jour artisan monastery garden, highlighted by a gifts and souvenirs, including wood- stone-domed gazebo that covers a carvings, huipil dresses, embroi- cenote well. It’s built over one of the dered blouses and guayabera deepest underground cenotes in the shirts, rebozo shawls, onyx, ham- Yucatán, which gave the neighbor- mocks, and leather goods such as hood of Sisal its name—not the belts, sandals, bags, and gun cases. name for henequén but a corruption Calles 39 and 44. of the Mayan words Sis Ha, meaning ! Calle 41A. The Calzada de los cold water. Calles 49 and 41A. Frailes (Walkway of the Friars) is the # = Cenotes Xke’ken & prettiest street in the Yucatán—run- Samula. Two of the most breathtak- ning diagonally from the corner of ing sights in the natural Yucatán are calles 41 and 46 to Calle 49. A short- the twin cenotes of Xke’ken and cut to San Bernardino, the cobble- Samula, a short distance out of stone street is lined by single-story town, on the way to Chichén Itzá. colonial homes, restored and Cenotes—lakes that form where an painted in gold, rust, and other underground river breaks through period colors. Huge clay pots filled the limestone surface—are unique to with green plants adorn alternating the Yucatán. These two are particu- sides of the street. The best time larly intriguing. Climb down slippery to stroll here is just before sunset. stone steps into warm and very Calle 41A (at calles 41 and 46). humid caverns with stunning under- @ Church of San Bernardino ground lakes. They’re well lit, under of Siena & Ex-Convento of high ceilings. Both have small holes Sisal. The fortress-like religious in the roof that allow a shaft of bright complex of San Bernardino Church daylight to illuminate the clear blue and the former Convent of Sisal water. You can swim like Indiana is at the end of Calle 41A, behind a Jones (wash off any sunblock first) or charming little square surrounded just “ohh” and “ahh” at these unique by restored colonial buildings. natural phenomena. A must-see if Designed in 1552 by Juan de Mérida, you’re in town. Dzitnup, 4 km (2.5 the same architect who would later miles) west of Valladolid, off Highway build the town cathedral, these are 180. Admission $2. Open 7am–7pm. 10_081198 ch06.qxp 1/10/07 5:59 PM Page 128

128 Where to Stay & Dine

Bazar HISTORIC CENTER Under Maria de la Luz HISTORIC CENTER the arches of an open building on On the corner opposite the square, a corner opposite the park is a the Maria is a three-story, remodeled series of inexpensive little eateries hotel that surrounds a large pool in Cities & Towns serving three meals a day. The its center courtyard. At its hugely menus run from eggs rancheros to popular, street-front Mexican restau- sandwiches to comida corrida, a rant we always order the poc chuc or daily “blue plate” dinner special. A chicken in molé. The hotel’s medium-

Charming local specialty is “mondongo,” size rooms are good values at very made from beef intestine. Try it reasonable prices, and the hotel has and tell us how you like it. One dish off-street parking. Calle 42 (at Calle we do eat is longaniza, a spicy 39). y 985/856-2071. www.mariade sausage unique to the area. laluzhotel.com. 70 units. $35. MC, V Calle 39 (at calle 40). No phone. Plaza Maya HISTORIC CENTER Entrees $3–9. No credit cards. Tourists typically miss this clean Open 6am–9pm. little restaurant that, since 1988, ★ El Meson del Marquéz HIS- has offered Mexican and authentic TORIC CENTER Originally the family Yucatecan regional fare. The back home of its owner, the Meson grew dining room is palapa-covered and over the years into a full-fledged the kitchen, visible through a large quality hotel with a romantic central glass window, is immaculate. The courtyard restaurant serving Mexi- delicious Valladolid platter features can fare. Try the Yucatecan sampler up to eight local specialties that for a good introduction to regional include longaniza, a spicy, some- cooking. The rooms in back are new, what dry sausage, and venado, built up three stories with a pool and venison. A small glass of Valladolid’s private parking. It has been a fixture own Xtabentun, a “Mayan” liqueur in Valladolid since 1966. Calle 39 made from local honey and anise, (facing the square). y 985/856- makes a great after-dinner drink. 2073. www.mesondelmarquez.com. Calle 41 (between 48 and 50). No 90 units. Doubles $45. AE. Reserva- phone. Entrees $5–10. No credit tions recommended. cards.

El Mesón del Marquéz, a private home-turned restaurant in Valladolid. 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 129

7 Cancún 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 130

130 The Best of Cancún in One Day To Puerto Juárez la & Punta Sam Is Cancún to s Bahía Playa ry re r je de Mujeres Las Perlas Fe u 2 M

Playa Av. Tulum Av. Av. Bonampak Juventud El Embarcadero Park Av. Cobá PPlayalaya Playa CANCÚN LLindainda Lagosta Punta KKmm 3 CITY Bullfight KmKm 5 Playa Cancún KKmm 33.5.5 Paseo KukuTortugas ring KKmm 4 KKmm 8.58.5 4 KKmm 77.5.5 lkán

KmKm 7 KmKm 8 KmKm 9 3 Pok-Ta-Pok KKmm 9.59.5 Canal Golf Course Playa Nichupté Gaviota Laguna KmKm 1010 307 Bojórquez Playa Chacmool

To Tulum & Chetumal KKmm 11.511.5 Laguna del Amor Km12Km12

Laguna de Nichupté

KmKm 1414

Playa Delfines 1 Ruinas del Rey

KKmm 1166

Laguna Paseo Kukulkán Caribbean Inglé Canal Sea Nizuc

KmKm 2020 Punta To Airport Nizuc

P Gulf of Mexico ase o Kukulkán Mérida Cancún YUCATÁN 0 2 mi N Isla de 0 2 km Campeche QUINTANA Cozumel ROO CAMPECHE 1 Playa Delfines Caribbean Chetumal Sea 2 Mercado 28 Beach 0 100 mi 3 The City Golf GUATEMALA BELIZE 4 Azucar Ruins 0 100 km

Previous page: The beach at the Presidente Inter-Continental Cancún. 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 131

131 The Best of an you Cancún in 1 day? Yes, you can. A morning swim, a Cgood lunch, and some Mexican shopping, followed by dinner and an evening out will make your Mexico experience something to write home about. But whatever you do, don’t miss wandering down

to the sea; paradisiacal beaches are why Cancún is Mexico’s most Cancún in One Day

Playa visited tourist destination. Linda Km 3 Km 5 Km 3.5 Km 4 Km 8.5 1 Playa Delfines HOTEL ZONE waves. A morning’s swim in either Km 7.5 The best way to begin your day is place will get your juices flowing Km 7 to put on a bathing suit, slather on and keep you cool for the afternoon. Km 9 Km 8 some sunscreen, and hit the beach. Km 9.5 2 Mercado 28 DOWNTOWN All beaches are free in Mexico, so Despite the glut of shopping malls in Km 10 if your hotel’s sandbox isn’t great, the Hotel Zone, downtown Cancún head to Playa Delfines, Km 18 on the offers the most Mexican goods and boulevard. It’s a public beach, which the most authentic gift and souvenir means no big hotel sits in front of it. shopping experience in town—not Km 11.5 Your first glance is from the bluff to mention lower prices. Mercado above, from where the colors of the 28 is the most popular, but several Km12 sparkling sea and brilliant sand are smaller flea markets line Av. Tulum, breathtaking. The bus stops in the the downtown’s main drag. parking lot, and from there you Take any bus from the Hotel Zone can descend faded wooden steps with “Mercado 28” in the front win- through greenery down to the white dow (usually the Ruta 2). For 75¢, it beach. It’s our favorite place to hang Km 14 will drop you off at this block-square out and swim, although the covered market. During the heat of Caribbean waves can be strong. the afternoon, wander through the For calmer waters, head to Playa shaded aisles past vendor stalls Tortugas, facing Isla Mujeres, at Km plying a wide variety of merchandise, 6.5. It’s popular with tourists and from junk to gems. We’ve bought locals alike because of its gentle Km 16 A stretch of the Cancún Hotel Zone.

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silver jewelry at sterling prices—half of what we might pay in the United States—as well as T-shirts, embroi-

Cancún dered blouses, leather goods such as hand-tooled belts and bags, and decorated pottery. Have a cold beer and a late lunch in any of several economical Mexican eateries located in the center garden of the market. Directly next to the flea market is a charming village-style mall called Plaza Bonita, where we buy Mayan copal incense in the herbalist’s shop. The Pewter Factory is hands-down the best place to buy Mexican pewter gifts and home- wares. With excellent prices and a huge selection, they ship larger items worldwide. See p 153. 3 The City HOTEL ZONE Luckily, your 1 day in Cancún has an evening, because if there’s one more thing Cancún is famous for, it’s nightlife. The City is Cancún’s newest and biggest rock club. Crit- Poolside at the Westin Resort & ics sometimes compare it to a big Spa Cancún. barn, without intimate atmosphere, but the large open spaces fill with in Forum by the Sea, Coco Bongo more than a thousand pulsating packs in a slightly more diverse but dancers, which make it Cancún’s equally large crowd for a fun night most popular nightspot. Next door of clubbing. See p 149.

Olé!

A blood sport introduced to Mexico by the Spanish Viceroys, bullfighting is now as much a part of Mexican culture as tequila. Actually, a bullfight is not a true “fight”; it’s a ritual affair. Pomp and ceremony are equally important as danger to the matador. The best matadors, in their beautifully embroidered Suit of Lights, perform graceful ballet-like movements as the bull’s horns pass very close to their bodies. At the conclusion, the death stab should sever the bull’s aorta and kill him instantly. If it was an elegant fight, the matador is rewarded with the bull’s ear. Plaza de Toros. DOWNTOWN. Av. Bonhampak. y 998/884-8372; [email protected]. Every Wed 3:30pm. Tickets $40 at the door or from a travel agent. 133 The Best of Cancún in One Day 998/884- y with EcoColors; with EcoColors; 998/885-1069 998/883-0470 998/883-0044 y y y negotiation 998/892-8234 998/892-8234 y Sian Ka’an; An oceanside Chac-Mool altar in Cancún. mucho Av. Nader near the Radisson Hotel; Nader near the Av. with near the bridge in the Hotel Zone; no phone near the bridge in the Hotel in La Isla in La Plaza Bonita, next to Mercado 28; Plaza Bonita, nextto Mercado upstairs in Plaza Las Americas; Av. Tulum Av. Americas; in Plaza Las upstairs at Isla Holbox, or at Isla Holbox, Silver Silver Place a Bet Glazz, with Halach Winik Tours; Winik Tours; with Halach Caribe Hyatt, Km 10.5 Kukulcán; Plaza Flamingo, Km 11.5 Kukulcán; Plaza Flamingo, HOTEL ZONEHOTEL Salsa, Cancún departures, Km 9.5, Kukulcán; Cancún departures, Day Trip for Kids Kids for Trip Day Nature Tour Nature Archaeological Tour Archaeological Café con Leche Café con Leche Cuban Cigars Cuban Cigars Bottomless Cup of Joe Bottomless Live Jazz Live Fish & Beer Joint downtown flea market, Cancún Palmas de Oro Awards de Oro Palmas Cancún Azúcar 998/884-3667, www.ecotravelmexico.com, Calle Camarón 998/884-3667, www.ecotravelmexico.com, 998-876-876 Like Azúcar, Azúcar, Like meringue, and rumba are just some meringue, and rumba are of the sizzling dance rhythms you’ll the hottest of Latin hear at Azúcar, nightclubs. A sophisticated, mixed audience comes to dance to the live American bands on Cuban and Latin from the scene stage, or to watch See p 148. the bar. Shopping Mall, also stands out many clubs for among Cancún’s out.an urbane evening Its sleek and dance lounge, fine restaurant, shows music and floor with live uninter- crowd appeal to the over-30 ested in Jello shots. 4 0309 Best Xcaret, Best Whale Sharks y y Best Chichén Itzá Best Prices on Any Best Place to Sports Book, Yax Best de Obregon, Bisquets Los Best Stylish, Smoker’s Best Sanborn’s, Best Blue Bayou, Best Rio Nizuc, Restaurante 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 133 6:00 PM 1/10/07 ch07.qxp 11_081198 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 134

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Hotel Zone Hotels & Restaurants Ca TToo PPuertouerto JJuárezuárez la & PPuntaunta SamSam Is To Punta Sam Cancún to s Bahía & Puerto Juárez Playa ry re r je de Mujeres Cancún Las Perlas Fe u M

Playa City Av. Tulum Av. Av. Bonampak Juventud El Embarcadero Park Av. Cobá 1 PPlayalaya Playa CANCÚN LLindainda Lagosta Punta Isla Cancún KKmm 3 Playa Cancún CITY Bullfight KmKm 5 Plaza (Zona Hotelera) KKmm 33.5.5 Paseo KukuTortugas Caracol 5 ring KKmm 4 4 2 KmKm 8.58.5 lkán KKmm 7.57.5 Convention Center KmKm 7 Forum by KmKm 8 KmKm 9 the Sea 3 KKmm 9.59.5 Canal Pok-Ta-Pok 6 Golf Course Playa Nichupté KmKm 1010 7 Gaviota 307 Laguna Playa Bojórquez 8 Chacmool 9 TToo TTulumulum & CChetumalhetumal KKmm 11.511.5

Laguna Parque del Amor Km12Km12 La Isla Shopping Village Palapas Plaza Kukulkán Laguna de A 11 10 Nichupté 12 13

17 KmKm 14 18 1414 15 19 16 0 2 mi N 0 2 km Playa Delfines Ruinas del Rey

KKmm 1166 To Hotel Zone 20 (Cancún Island) 21 Beach Laguna Paseo Kukulkán Golf Inglé Canal 22 Nizuc Ruins

23 WHERE TO DINE KmKm 2020 Caribbean Aioli (Km 14) 15 24 Punta Sea To Airport Nizuc Blue Bayou (Km 10.5) 9 Cambalache (Km 9) 6 (Km 12.5) 10 P Cenacolo ase (Km 13.5) 14 o Kukulkán Club Grill La Desilería (Km 12.6) 11 (Km 8.5) 4 WHERE TO STAY Le Méridien Cancún La Fishería (Km 7) 3 Aqua Cancún (Km 12.5) 12 Resort & Spa (Km 14) 15 La Palapa (Km 16.5) 20 Blue Bay Getaway (Km 3.5) 1 Marriott Casa Magna Laguna Grill (Km 10.5) 8 Casa Turquesa (Km 13.5) 13 (Km 14.5) 16 Lorenzillo’s (Km 14.4) 19 Dreams Cancún Resort & Spa Presidente Intercontinental Lorita Joe’s (Km 9.5) 5 Cancún (Km 7.5) 2 Mango Tango (Km 14.2) 18 El Pueblito (Km 17.5) 22 Ritz-Carlton Hotel María Bonita (Km 9.5) 6 Fiesta Americana Coral Beach (Km 13.5) 14 Plantation House (Km 9.5) 4 Sina Suites (Km 7) 3 (Km 10.5) 7 Hilton Cancún Beach & Golf Sun Palace (Km 20) 24 Puerto Madero (Km 14) 17 Resort (Km 17) 21 Westin Resort & Spa Rainforest Café (Km 9) 6 Cancún (Km 20) 23 Savio’s (Km 8.5) 4 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 135

135 Cancún City

Cancún City Hotels & Restaurants

To Puerto Juárez & Punta Sam SM 1 TToo PPuntaunta SSamam Area of detail Ave Avenida n & PPuertouerto JJuárezuárez id

a Bonampak Avenida CancCCancúnancún Chichén Itzá G CityCity 1 ar cía orre de la T Hotels & Restaurants

Playa Linda IslaIsla CancCancúnCancún Avenida Tulum

Km 3 Km 5 SM 23 A

(Zona(Zona Hotelera)Hotelera) v

Km 3.5 SM 2 e

Km 4 n

i Km 8.5 d

a SM 2-A Km 7.5

Km 7 . Km 9 Avenida Uxmal N Km 8 a Km 9.5 d 2 e Allen PinoBus r Km 10 4 3 SM 24 Rosas s Station Valpich N a s

t a Avenida Uxmal i Barracuda i 5 r t

c i Rubia c a r

h a g

Soliman Conoco e r g Yoquen Rosas

r a

M b M Azucenas SM 28 i Jazmines Rubia To Tulum SM 5 Barracuda Azucenas Mero & Chetumal Av. SunyaxchenS Km 11.5 a Jazmines Cazon r 6 a

Mercado 28 i PUERTO CANCÚN Av. Yaxchilán m 8 Tulipanes Avenida Tulum Grosella Mero Cazon ull PParquearque o Gladiolas A o

Km12 Grosella ng Avenida Bonampak Avenida PPalapasalapas v ina

Marañon Tulipanes e Pargo Nancen Gladiolas ch n a 7 Hu i Av. Xel-Ha Chiabal d Pargo Claveles a go Coco Orquideas an J in . ch SM 25 SM 22 C ua Cherna Claveles . H N SM 3

Guaya a Cherna Chiabal s

d Avenida Tanka e s

Ca c e Crisantemas

Guaya im c Piña r r

i a Robalo Km t t C o r Guanaba a a t Mojarra 14 Guanaba i c Ciruela m l a Red Cross c i A l Juriel t A Anona o Avenida Cobá na Av. Yaxchil Robalo na Hospital h 9 Sierra Avenida Cobá SM 52 Avenida Cob Sierra SM 35 án Jaleb Reno á AvenidaReno Xcaret Venado Boulevardán Brisa Kukulc Jaleb Nube Km 16 Avenida Xcaret ToTo HotelHotel ZoneZone Tejon (Cancún(Cancún IIsland)sland)

Avenida Tulu Lluvia Tejon

Lluvia SM 4 Nube Bonampak Avenida SM 20 SM 21 Agua Cielo Avenida Labná Agua Cielo

m SM Km 20 4-A

Avenida Yaxchilán

SM 18 Bullfight i Information ring Post office 10 Avenida Sayil 0 200 yds N 0 200 m SM 7

Avenida Tulu WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO DINE Los Almendros 10 Cancún Inn Suites El Patio 2 100% Natural SM 6 Perico’s 7 15-A El Rey del Caribe 3 SMLa 15 Parilla 5 Pizza Rolandi 9 Radisson Hacienda Cancún 1 Labná 8 m Tycoz 4 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 136

136 Cancún Dining Best Bets

Cancún Best French Food Most Fun for Kids ★★★ Aioli $$–$$$ Le Méridien ★★★ Rainforest Café $ Forum by Hotel, Km 14 Kukulcán (p 137) the Sea, Km 9 Kukulcán (p 139)

Biggest Steaks The spread at the Fiesta Americana Coral ★★★ Cambalache $–$$$$ Forum Beach. by the Sea, Km 9 Kukulcán (p 137) Most Elegant Experience ★★★ Club Grill $–$$$$ Ritz Carlton Hotel, Km 13.5 Kukulcán (p 137) Weirdest Appetizer ★★ La Desilería $–$$$ Km 12.5 Kukulcán (p 137) Best-Kept Secret ★★ La Palapa $–$$$ Imperial Laguna Hotel, Calle Queztal, Km 7 Kukulcán (p 138) Best Sunset View ★★ Laguna Grill $$–$$$$ Km 16.5 Kukulcán (p 138) Best Live Lobster ★★★ Lorenzillo’s $–$$$$ Km 10.5 Kukulcán (p 138) Biggest Fish Story (or Best Seafood Buffet) ★★ Lorita Joe’s $–$$$ Km 14.5 Kukulcán, across from the Marriott (p 138) Best Yucatecan Food ★ Los Almendros $–$$ Tulum Avenue, 2 blocks north of the bus station (p 138) Most Fun ★ Perico’s $–$$$$ Av. Yaxchilan 61 (p 139) Best Brick-Oven Pizza Pizza Rolandi $ Av. Cobá, between Avs. Tulum and Nader (p 139) Best Baguette Sandwich Tycoz $ Km 7.2 Kukulcán (p 139) 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 137

137 Cancún Cancún Restaurants A to Z Restaurants A to Z

For additional restaurants, see chapter 2, The Best Full-Day Tours.

★★★ Aioli HOTEL ZONE FRENCH For the quality and originality of the food, Aioli is exquisite. French and Mediterranean gourmet specialties are served in a warm, cozy, low-light Bistro setting. Le Méridien Hotel, Retorno del Rey, Km 14 Kukulcán. y 998/881-2200. Entrees $15–$40. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–11pm. Blue Bayou HOTEL ZONE CAJUN This hot supper club/cool jazz joint in the Caribe Hyatt received a “Dis- tinguished Restaurant Award” for its Cajun-inspired cuisine. “Map A” booklets have a free wine coupon. Tropical bounty at the Fiesta Americana Caribe Hyatt, Km 10.5 Kukulcán. Coral Beach. y 998/848-7800, ext 53. Entrees $20 & up. AE, MC, V. Open daily out, there’s no place with a more 6pm–11pm. elegant, stylish, or delicious menu. Gracious service in a candle lit dining ★★★ Cambalache HOTEL ZONE room—while the band plays on. Ritz STEAK This Argentine restaurant Carlton Hotel, Km 13.5 Kukulcán. specializes in fine cuts of meat. y 998/881-0808. Entrees $12–$40. Enjoy your steak hand-carved, AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 7pm–11pm. slow–charcoal grilled, and presented in a rich setting with superb service. ★★ La Desilería HOTEL ZONE Forum by the Sea, Km 9 Kukulcán. MEXICAN Everything you ever y 998/883-0902. Entrees $9–$45. wanted to know about tequila and AE, MC, V. Open daily 1pm–closing. then some is here. Plus tasty traditional Mexican fare. Enjoy an appe- ★★★ HOTEL ZONE ITAL- Cenacolo tizer of escamoles (crisp fried ants). IAN Recipes here, from Tuscany Km 12.5 Kukulcán. y 998/885-1086. and Romagna, are further authenti- Entrees $8–$30. AE, MC, V. Open cated by homemade pasta in this daily 1pm–midnight. gorgeous Italian restaurant with tableside preparation, live piano ★★ La Fisheria HOTEL ZONE music, and a large selection of wine. SEAFOOD The tasty and expansive Kukulcán Plaza, Km 13 Kukulcán. menu here features out-of-the-ordi- y 998/885-3603. Entrees $12–$34. nary dishes such as shark fingers AE, MC, V. Open daily 1pm–11:30pm. with jalapeño dip, and Tikin Xic, fresh fish filets spiced with Mayan ★★★ Club Grill HOTEL ZONE achiote. Plaza Caracol, 2nd floor, INTERNATIONAL For a special night Km 8.5 Kukulcán. y 998/883-1395. 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 138

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Entrees $7–$21. AE, MC, V. Open daily 10am–midnight. ★★ La Palapa HOTEL ZONE INTER- Cancún NATIONAL Sitting on a dock of the lagoon, this intimate restaurant boasts a talented Belgian chef/ owner who prepares some of the zone’s finest gourmet meals. Imper- ial Laguna Hotel, Calle Queztal, Km 7.0 Kukulcán. y 998/883-5454. Entrees $12–$27. MC, V. Open daily 7am–11pm, closed Sunday. ★ Labná DOWNTOWN YUCATECAN A showcase of Mayan moods in a The restaurant at Dreams Cancún Resort temple-like dining room, decorated & Spa. by black-and-white regional photos from the early 1900s. It’s a good lagoon. Km 10.5 Kukulcán. y 998/ place to try cuisine from the 883-1254. Entrees $12–$50. AE, MC, Yucatán. Margaritas 29, next to La V. Open daily noon–midnight. Habichuela Restaurant and City Hall. ★★ Lorita Joe’s HOTEL ZONE y 998/892-3056. Entrees $8–$18. SEAFOOD Calling itself a “Crab AE, MC, V. Open daily noon–10pm. Shack,” this informal eatery has a ★★ Laguna Grill HOTEL ZONE shrimp and lobster buffet, cold appe- FUSION As magical as the tropical tizers, stone crabs, and ceviche. Soft- garden decor is, the real star of this shell crab and shrimp in tamarind eatery is the chef’s fascinating sauce are specialties. Km 14.5 fusion of Pacific-rim flavors and local Kukulcán, across from the Marriott. cuisine. Watch the sunset on the y 998/885-1536. Entrees $9–$30. lagoon. Km 16.5 Kukulcán. y 998/ AE, MC, V. Open daily noon–11pm. 885-0267. Entrees $15–$45. AE, MC, ★ Los Almendros DOWNTOWN V. Open daily 2pm–midnight. YUCATECAN A new location and ★★★ Lorenzillo’s HOTEL ZONE renewed dedication are reviving this LOBSTER/SEAFOOD Under a giant place’s reputation for authentic palapa, this Cancún landmark lob- Yucatecan cooking. The dining ster place offers air-conditioning room is cool, white, and hacienda- and spectacular views from upstairs like. Local classics such as poc chuc or from the Sunset Pier on the are much improved. Tulum Avenue, 2 blocks north of the bus station. Cream of chaya soup. y 998/887-1332. Entrees $5–$14. AE, MC, V. Open daily 11am–9pm. ★★ Mango Tango HOTEL ZONE INTERNATIONAL/CARIBBEAN For a fun night out in the Hotel Zone, try the peel-your-own shrimp, big salads, Creole gumbo, or sizzling meats here. Then stay for the sizzling floor show. Km 14.5 Kukulcán. y 998/885-0303. Entrees $12–$57. AE, MC, V. Open daily 2pm–2am. 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 139

139 Cancún ★★ Maria Bonita HOTEL ZONE NUEVO MEXICANO Mexico’s varied cuisine is amply represented by the

fixed-price dinners here. Try anything Restaurants A to Z with huitlacoche—the exquisite tasting fungus that grows on corn. Punta Cancún. y 998/848-7000. Prix-fixe dinner $30–$45. AE, DC, MC, V. Open daily 6:30–11:45pm. ★ = 100% Natural CANCUN CITY VEGETARIAN Fresh fruits are the staple here (try a licuado), but 100% also serves tasty light Mexican fare with whole grain breads and, of course, vegetarian dishes. Av. Sun- Cochinita Pibil banana leaf-wrapped pork. yaxchen 63. y 998/884-0102. Main courses $2.80–$13. MC, V. Daily inviting seafood platters in an 8am–11pm. evocative porteno decor. Marina ★ = Perico’s DOWNTOWN MEX- Barracuda, Km 14 Kukulcán. ICAN This bar and restaurant has a y 998/885-2827. Entrees $9–$39. booming and festive cantina setting AE, MC, V. Open daily 1pm–1am. where, at any minute, diners might ★★★ = Rainforest Café don sombreros and form a conga HOTEL ZONE AMERICAN This is a line. Av. Yaxchilan 61. y 998/884- family favorite where you can find 3152. Entrees $9–$39. AE, MC, V. those American-style burgers and Open daily noon–10pm. fries the kids have been whining for. = Pizza Rolandi DOWNTOWN It has an exotic jungle decor, and ITALIAN The choice of two dozen the souvenir shop opens at 10am. different wood-oven pizzas will keep Forum by the Sea, Km 9 Kukulcán. you coming back to try another. The y 998/881-8130. Entrees $4–$14. selection of Italian staples includes Open daily 11am–1am. spaghetti and calzones. Av. Cobá ★★ Savio’s HOTEL ZONE ITALIAN (between aves. Tulum and Nader). George Savio introduced Italian y 998/884-4047. Entrees $4–$10. cooking to Cancún. What’s best is AE, MC, V. Open daily noon–11pm. the ravioli. Plaza Caracol, Km 8.5 = ★ Plantation House HOTEL Kukulcán. y 998/883-2085. Entrees ZONE CARIBBEAN/FRENCH This $9–$30. AE, MC, V. Open daily clapboard lagoon-side restaurant 10am–midnight. combines colonial charm with island Tycoz HOTEL ZONE/DOWNTOWN style but falls a little short on value. SANDWICHES When you just want Nevertheless, it’s crowded nightly. a cappuccino and a great sandwich Km 10.5 Kukulcán. y 998/883-1433. on a fresh, crisp, hard roll, this is the Entrees $13–$35. AE, MC, V. Open place. Km 7.2 Kukulcán (opposite daily 5pm–midnight. Presidente Hotel); Av. Tulum (behind ★★★ Puerto Madero HOTEL the Comercial Mexicana Mega shop- ZONE STEAK/LOBSTER In an hom- ping center, opposite the bus sta- age to Argentina, this cozy lagoon- tion). Baguettes $2–$3. No credit side restaurant serves some of the cards. Closed Sundays. zone’s best charbroiled steak and 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 140

140 Cancún Hotel Best Bets

Cancún Best Beach Most Ecological ★★★ Fiesta Americana Coral Beach El Rey del Caribe $ Aves. Uxmal $$$$ Km 9.5 Kukulcán (p 142) and Nader (p 142) Best Beds Best for Golf & Tennis ★★ Westin Resort & Spa Cancún ★ Hilton Cancún Beach & Golf $$$–$$$$ Km 20, Kukulcán (p 145) Resort $$$–$$$$ Km 17 Kukulcán (p 143) Best Sunday Buffet ★ Radisson Hacienda Cancun $ Av. Quietest Location Nader, SM2 (p 144) Sina Suites $ Calle Quetzal, Km 7.5, Kukulcán (p 145) Best Architecture ★★★ Aqua Cancún $$$–$$$$ Km Best Kid’s Club 12.5 Kukulcán (p 141) ★★ Marriott Casa Magna $$–$$$ Km 14.5, Kukulcán (p 143) Best Spa ★★★ Le Méridien Cancún Resort Best In-Hotel Restaurant & Spa $$$–$$$$ Returno del Rey, ★★★ Ritz-Carlton Hotel $$$$ Km 14 Kukulcán (p 143) Returno del Rey, Km 13.5 Kukulcán (p 144) Best Honeymoon Suite ★ Casa Turquesa $$–$$$ Km 13.5 Most Helpful Staff Kukulcán (p 141) ★ Presidente Intercontinental Cancún $$$ Km 7.5, Kukulcán Best for Spanish Lessons (p 144) Cancun Inn Suites El Patio $ Aves. Bonhampak and Cereza (p 141) Best Location ★★ Dreams Cancun Resort & Most Mexican Spa $$$ Punta Cancún, Kukulcán ★ El Pueblito $$$ Km 17.5, Kukulcán (p 142) (p 142)

El Pueblito Hotel. 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 141

141 Cancún Cancún Hotels A to Z

★★★ Aqua Cancún HOTEL ZONE house caters to travelers looking for Hotels A to Z In a skyline full of treasures as well as an immersion into the region’s cul- some second-rate designs, the Aqua ture. You won’t find bars, pools, or stands out as one of the best-looking loud parties, but rather good service buildings along the beach—a Mayan- and impeccable accommodations. inspired winged hotel embracing Rooms face the plant-filled court- white sands beside a turquoise sea. yard, dotted with groupings of Better still are the superior facilities wrought-iron garden furniture. Each and simple, elegant decor. The Aqua room has slightly different appoint- boasts superb restaurants and a ments and amenities, but all have contemporary Mexican decor that white tile floors and rustic wood, inspires a sense of well-being. Guest Spanish-style furnishings. Some rooms evince creative use of color rooms have kitchenettes. The lounge and space, with simple furnishings. has a large-screen TV, a library It’s an exceptionally comfortable and stocked with cultural books, and card relaxing environment. Km 12.5 Kukul- and board games. All rooms except cán. y 800/343-7821. www.fiesta for the public areas are nonsmoking. americana.com. 371 units. Doubles Aves. Bonhampak and Cereza. $270–$415. AE, DC, MC, V. y 998/884-3500. www.cancun- suites.com. 12 units. Doubles $40– Blue Bay Getaway HOTEL ZONE $56. AE, MC, V. The adults-only Blue Bay Getaway is a spirited yet relaxed all-inclusive ★ Casa Turquesa HOTEL ZONE resort favored by younger adults. Romantic, tranquil, and elegant, Casa Surrounded by acres of tropical gar- Turquesa is an oasis of relaxation in dens, it’s located at the northern end the midst of this playful island. If the of the Hotel Zone, close to down- Mediterranean-style design weren’t town, major shopping plazas, restau- appealing enough, their exceptional rants, and nightlife. It has a terrific stretch of beach is sure to inspire. It’s beach with calm waters for swim- a boutique hotel catering to couples, ming. The comfortable, modern and it’s noted for exceptional service. rooms have views of the lagoon, All suites feature king or queen beds garden, or ocean. The central build- and patios or balconies with private ing—with lobby, restaurants, and Jacuzzis. Bathrooms are extra large. Margaritas Bar—also features rooms The beachfront pool is also attrac- decorated in rustic wood. A variety tive, with a swim-up bar. The hotel’s of nightly entertainment takes place Belle-Vue Restaurant serves interna- in the theater. Beaches here are tional gourmet meals 24 hours a day, clothing optional, which helps and the formal Celebrity Restaurant explain the younger clientele. Km 3.5 offers seafood and Angus beef Kukulcán. y 800/211-1000. www. from 6pm to midnight. If you’re too bluebayresorts.com. 385 units. Dou- comfortable in your room to leave, bles $280 all-inclusive. AE, MC, V. you won’t go hungry; room service is available 24 hours. Km 13.5 Kukul- Cancún Inn Suites El Patio cán. y 888/528-8300. www.casa DOWNTOWN Many guests at this turquesa.com. 33 suites. Doubles hotel stay long-term, drawn by the $205–$235. AE, DC, MC, V. combination of excellent value and hospitality. The European-style guest 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 142

142 Cancún

Guest room at the Cancún Hilton.

★★ = Dreams Cancún small balcony or terrace. Minigolf Resort & Spa HOTEL ZONE For- and a water slide, plus a full program merly the Camino Real Cancún, the of kids’ activities, make this ideal for all-inclusive Dreams Resort is among families with children. Its more the island’s most appealing places to authentic atmosphere and garden stay, on 1.6 hectares (4 acres) of par- grounds make it very appealing for adise at the tip of Punta Cancún. The couples as an all-inclusive. Km 17.5, setting is sophisticated, but the hotel Kukulcán. y 998/885-0422. www. is very welcoming to children. A pueblitohotels.com. 293 units. Dou- sleek and contemporary architecture bles $300. AE, MC, V. is marked by bright colors and strate- El Rey del Caribe DOWNTOWN gic angles. Rooms in the newer In the center of the city a block off 18-story club section have extra Tulum Avenue, this ecological hotel is services and amenities; rates here an oasis where every detail seems to include full breakfast. Lower-priced reflect a respect for the natural envi- rooms have lagoon views. Dreams’ ronment. The atmosphere is one of all-inclusive concept is more oriented warmth and caring, which the on-site to quality experiences than unlimited owners extend to their guests. You’ll buffets. But your room price includes forget you’re in the midst of the busy gourmet meals, 24-hour room serv- downtown in this tropical jungle set- ice, premium drinks, use of all resort ting, with blooming orchids and other amenities, watersports, airport trans- flowering plants. They offer yoga and fers, and tips. Punta Cancún, Kukul- tai chi classes and are very active in cán. y 866/237-3267. www.dreams local environmental issues. But if cancun.com. 381 suites. Doubles you’re just looking for a good room in $275, club $320. AE, DC, MC, V. a comfortable hotel, this fits the bill ★ = El Pueblito HOTEL ZONE admirably; rooms are sunny and This hotel offers perhaps the top all- pleasant and offer a choice of king or inclusive value in Cancún. Dwarfed two full-size beds, a kitchenette, and by its ostentatious neighbors, El terrace. Spa services. Aves. Uxmal Pueblito’s lobby resembles a tradi- and Nader. y 998/884-2028. www. tional Mexican hacienda, with several reycaribe.com. 24 units. Doubles three-story buildings (without eleva- $65–$100. MC, V. tors) terraced in a V-shape down a ★★★ Fiesta Americana Coral gentle hillside to the sea. A meander- Beach HOTEL ZONE This hotel is ing, free-form swimming pool with an ideal choice for any traveler look- waterfalls runs between the two ing to be at the heart of all things series of buildings. Rooms are very Cancún has to offer. The spectacular large, with modern rattan furnish- rose-colored hotel is super centrally ings, travertine marble floors, and located, boasting 300m (328 yards) large bathrooms. Each has either a 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 143

143 Cancún of prime beachfront and proximity make guests feel pampered. The rela- to multiple restaurant choices, the tively small establishment is more of major entertainment centers, and an elegant boutique than an immense

shopping plazas. Everything about resort—a welcome change of atti- Hotels A to Z the Fiesta Americana is on a large tude in Cancún. The decor through- scale; the oceanfront suites are over- out the rooms and common areas is size, and the lobby is enormous, classy and comforting, not overdone including palm trees and fountains, or overwrought. Generous-size decorated in marble and dark-green rooms have small balconies overlook- granite. The hotel aims for a sophisti- ing the pool with a view to the ocean. cated feel. The rooms, with balconies The hotel attracts many Europeans as facing the sea, were remodeled in well as younger, hipper travelers, and 2004 with bathrooms that feature it’s ideal for a romantic break. The posh toiletries and hair dryers. The hotel’s highlight is the Spa del Mar, excellent swimming beach is just one of Mexico’s best. Returno del Rey, steps from the pool. Km 9.5 Kukul- Km 14 Kukulcán. y 800/543-4300. cán. y 800/343-7821. www.fiesta www.lemeridien.com. 213 units. Dou- americana.com. 602 units. Doubles bles $290, suites $450. AE, DC, MC, V. $328–$555. AE, DC, MC, V. ★★ = Marriott Casa Magna ★ = Hilton Cancún Beach & HOTEL ZONE This is quintessential Golf Resort HOTEL ZONE The Marriott, and those who are familiar Hilton sits on 250 acres of pristine with the chain’s high standards will beachfront property, a location that feel right at home and immediately gives every room a sea view, with an appreciate the attention to detail. 18-hole golf course across the street Enter this huge hotel through a half- on the lagoon side. Like the sprawling circle of Roman columns and a resort, rooms are grandly spacious domed foyer opening, into a wide, and tastefully decorated in a minimal- lavishly marbled, 14m-high (46 foot-) ist style that came with a 2004 lobby, decorated with lots of green remodeling. Area rugs and pale fur- plants and shallow water features. nishings throughout the rooms soften It’s a bit like Las Vegas on the beach. the marble bathrooms and floors. It’s Guest rooms hold contemporary a very “kid-friendly” resort with one of the island’s best children’s pro- Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa. grams—which allows mommy and daddy to get in a worry-free 18 holes of golf. They’ve added a wellness spa with oceanfront massage cabins, yoga, and aromatherapy. Km 17 Kukulcán. y 800/228-3000. www. hiltoncancun.com. 426 units. Doubles $270–$415. AE, DC, MC, V. ★★★ Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa HOTEL ZONE Of all the luxury properties in Cancún, Le Méridien may be the most inviting, with a refined yet welcoming sense of personal service. From the intimate lobby and reception area to the best concierge service in Cancún, Le Méridien immediately aims to 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 144

144 outdoor whirlpool tubs. There’s a great free-form pool. Km 7.5 Kukul- cán. y 800/327-0200. www.ichotels

Cancún group.com. 299 units. Doubles $245– $300, AE, MC, V. ★ Radisson Hacienda Cancún DOWNTOWN This is the nicest hotel in downtown Cancún, and a very good value. The Radisson offers all the expected comforts of a chain, yet in an atmosphere of Mexican hospitality. The hotel resembles a hacienda, and rooms are set off from a large rotunda-style lobby and a pleasant pool area. Accommoda- tions feature bright-colored fabrics, The pool at Le Méridien. cold air-conditioning, a small sitting space and balcony, and views of the furnishings, tiled floors, and ceiling garden, the pool, or the residential fans; most have balconies. The hotel street. Stone tile bathrooms have a caters to family travelers with spe- combination shower and tub. The cially priced packages that let up to hotel attracts a large number of two children stay free and enjoy the business travelers, both foreign and “Club Amigos” supervised children’s domestic, and offers very good serv- program. Next door is its impressive ice. Guests have access to a shuttle sister hotel, the high-end JW Marriott service to the beach or golf course. Cancún. Km 14.5, Kukulcán. y 800/ It’s within easy walking distance of 228-9290. www.marriott.com. 452 downtown shops and restaurants. units. Doubles $225–$250, suites Av. Nader, SM2. y 800/333-3333. $350. AE, MC, V. www.radisson.com. 248 units. Dou- bles $100, jr. suites $140. AE, MC, V. ★ Presidente Intercontinental Cancún HOTEL ZONE On one of ★★★ Ritz-Carlton Hotel HOTEL the island’s best beaches, facing the ZONE For those who want to feel tranquil Bahía de Mujeres, the Presi- indulged in luxury on their vacation, dente’s location is reason enough to this is the place to stay. On 3 hectares 1 stay here, and it’s just a 2-minute (7 ⁄2 acres) of superb white-sand walk to Cancún’s Pok-Ta-Pok Golf beachfront property, the nine-story Club (see p 37.) For its ambience, it’s Ritz-Carlton continues to set the stan- an excellent choice for a romantic dard for elegance in Cancún. The gor- getaway or for couples who indulge geous beach here is long and wide, in golf, tennis, or even shopping. 370m (338 yards), and all rooms over- It’s in an ideal location, close to the look the ocean, pool, and tropical center of things, but on its own. gardens. The style in both the public Cool and spacious, the Presidente areas and guest rooms is sumptuous sports a postmodern design with and formal, with thick carpets, elabo- lavish marble, wicker accents, and a rate chandeliers, and fresh flowers strong use of color. Guests have a throughout. In all rooms, marble choice of two double beds or one bathrooms have telephones, sepa- king-size. All rooms have tastefully rate tubs and showers, and lighted simple furniture. Sixteen units on makeup mirrors. Their Kayantá the first floor feature patios with Spa offers an excellent selection of 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 145

145 Cancún Mayan- and Mexican-inspired treat- even on the Riviera Maya. Km 20 ments. Damaged by Hurricane Kat- Kukulcán. y 800/346-8225. www. rina, the hotel was remodeled in its palaceresorts.com. 237 suites. Dou-

entirety in 2006. Returno del Rey, bles $310–$400. AE, DC, MC, V. Hotels A to Z Km 13.5 Kukulcán. y 800/241-3333. ★★ Westin Resort & Spa Can- www.ritzcarlton.com. 365 units. Dou- cún HOTEL ZONE Impressive with bles $370. AE, MC, V. its elegant use of stone and marble, Sina Suites HOTEL ZONE The the strikingly austere architecture of best deal in the Cancún Hotel Zone the Westin Regina is the signature is this all-suites little hotel looking of leading Latin American architect, across the Bojórquez Lagoon (a Ricardo Legorreta. The hotel consists part of the larger Nichupté, to the of two sections, the main building and Caribbean side of the Hotel Zone). the more exclusive six-story tower. It’s not on the beach, but it’s a fabu- After suffering heavy damage from lous view anyway, especially in the Hurricane Wilma, the resort com- evening when Cancún’s hotels’ lights pletely remodeled and reopened late reflect on the water. Each oversize in 2006. Standard rooms are unusually suite features a basic kitchen, sitting large and beautifully furnished with room, and bedroom with a view. Sina cool, contemporary furniture. Rooms has a large, appealing blue pool that in the tower all have ocean or lagoon butts up against a sunken restaurant views, Berber area rugs, oak tables dining room, surrounded by tropical and chairs, and terraces with lounge lawns and gardens. It’s a few hun- chairs. The Westin is a comfortable dred meters south of Kukulcán on choice for people who want a little Calle Quetzal, next to the Pok-Ta-Pok more seclusion than Cancún usually Golf Course. Calle Quetzal, Km 7.5 offers. Km 20 Kukulcán. y 800/228- Kukulcán. y 998/883-1017. www. 3000. www.westin.com. 293 units. cancunsinasuites.com.mx. 36 suites, Doubles $285–$450, AE, DC, MC, V. 3 rooms. Jr. suite $100, master suite $140, doubles $50. AE, MC, V. The beach at the Presidente InterContinental Cancún. ★ Sun Palace HOTEL ZONE If you’re looking for an all-inclusive resort on a great stretch of Caribbean beach, this member of the popular Palace Resorts chain is a prime pick— and the most elegant of the Palace properties in Cancún. Located toward the southern end of the island, this all-suite resort is farther away from the action of the Hotel Zone—which may be what you want, considering all the goodies that go with a stay here. One of the best perks is the activities program, which includes excursions to Tulum, Chichén Itzá, or Isla Mujeres. Suites feature modern Mexican decor, and all have marble floors and a combination bath and whirlpool tub. When you stay at a Palace resort, you have the option of playing at any of their other hotels, 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 146

146 Cancún Nightlife & Shopping

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21 a Plaza Bonita i t Information r a t c Ciruela l a 11 Red Cross c Plaza Kukulcán Post office A l Tulum Ave. Flea Markets 18 AvenidaA Cobá Ultrafemme 4, 11 0 200 yds 19 Hospital Ultrajewels 4, 11 N Wayan Natural Wear 11 0 Avenida200 m Cobá SM 52 Zara 10 147 Cancún Nightlife Best Bets Royal Returno Calles Hotel Krystal, Km Meet Mexicans Plaza Las Americas, Plaza Las Punta Cancún, Km 9 Av. Yaxchilan (p 150) Yaxchilan Av. Club Latin Bands Latin Parque Las Palapas Palapas Las Parque Azúcar Relaxing Evening Mexican Romantic Seat in the House Seat in the Best Bets Best Lobby Lounge at Ritz Lounge Lobby Lobster Dinner Cruise Dinner Cruise Lobster Bulldog Café La Parilla Parilla La Tulum Avenue (at Av. Nichupté) (at Av. Avenue Tulum (p 148) Km 13.5 Kukulcán del Rey, (p 150) Kukulcán (p 148) Alcatraces & Margaritas, SM 22 & Margaritas, Alcatraces (p 151) ★★★ Most ★★ Most ★ Sexiest ★★ Most ★★ Best Cinépolis VIP Hottest ★★★ Best Place to 9 Kukulcán (p 148) Plaza & Marina, Km 6.2 Kukulcán Plaza & Marina, (p 150) Varied Flamingo Plaza, Km 14.5 Kukulcán Forum by the Sea, by Forum Km 9.5 Kukulcán Km 3.5 Kukulcán Km 9.5 Kukulcán (p 149) La Isla Shopping Center, La Av. Tulum (p 150) Tulum Av. Wet T-Shirts Wet Drinks Rave Nightclub Bar Leaping Tour Tour Bar Leaping The City Sophisticated Club Place to be Out Designated Drivers Designated Crowd Floor Show Floor Show Glazz Boom La Margaritaville Coco Bongo Mango Tango Mango Tango Dady’O After dark at the Westin Resort & Spa Cancún. After dark at the Westin Cancún Nightlife Nightlife Cancún Km 11.5 Kukulcán (p 151) Km 9.5 Kukulcán (p 149) ★★ Tightest ★★ Best Karamba Biggest ★★ Best ★★ Wildest ★ Most ★★ Best ★★★ Hottest ★★★ Best Km 12.5 Kukulcán (p 149) (p 148) (p 151) starting (p 148) points 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 147 6:00 PM 1/10/07 ch07.qxp 11_081198

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148 Cancún Nightlife A to Z

Cancún nightclub, by which time many of the crawlers are crawling. Starting places and individual bar stops change, so call or check the Web. Varied starting points. y 998/287-8184. www. barleapingcancun.com.mx. $50. AE, MC, V. Lasts from 8pm–3am. ★★ Bulldog Café HOTEL ZONE Formerly the opulent dance club Christine, in the Hotel Krystal, Bull- dog boasts enough space for more than 2,000 revelers for its signature laser light shows. Infused oxygen, large video screens, and a titillating VIP Jacuzzi—filled with young, rich, Coco Bongo nightclub. and beautiful people—excite all the senses. The music ranges from ★★★ Azúcar HOTEL ZONE This hip-hop to Latin rock, with a heavy hip dance club features live music, emphasis on infectious dance tunes. with full bands imported from The cover charge is $12 per person Cuba and other Latin American or $25 for a domestic-drink-only countries. It’s hard to sit still when open bar. Hotel Krystal, Km 9 the horns blow and the rhythm Kukulcán. y 998/848-9850. www. takes over. It’s the best Latin dance bulldogcafe.com. Cover $20. Fri, Sat floor in Cancún, set in an intimate 10pm–5am. and sophisticated nightclub next to Dreams Resort on Punta Can- Cinépolis VIP DOWNTOWN cún. Sweet Azúcar, which means You’ll love to go to the movies here, “sugar,” attracts a mixed crowd; upstairs in the Plaza Las Americas both tourists and locals, younger shopping center, on Tulum Avenue. and older, who just love to dance. in front-ish of the Plaza de Toros Bull If you don’t but want to try, you’re Ring. Seats are wide and recline, in luck; they offer free salsa les- with plenty of legroom in front. Cur- sons from 9:30pm to 10:30pm rent English-language Hollywood every evening. Punta Cancún, Km 9 movies play here as soon as they Kukulcán. y 998/848-7000. Cover subtitle them for Spanish viewers. $15. Mon–Sat Open 9:30pm–4am. Before the movie, the lounge has a full-service bar, and the snack areas ★★★ Bar Leaping Tour HOTEL serve Japanese food, sushi, and ZONE As close to an official “Pub baguette sandwiches, as well as Crawl” as Cancún gets, a gaudy popcorn. Plaza Las Americas, Tulum green bus drives participants from Av. (at Av. Nichupté). y 998/884- bar to club in the Hotel Zone. The 1410. Cover $6. price includes 2 hours and a complimentary drink in each of the four ★★★ The City HOTEL ZONE Can- establishments. Inside you get cún’s hottest nightclub features pro- semi-VIP treatment, avoiding any gressive electronic music spun by lines, and it usually ends at The City some of the world’s best DJs. The 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 149

149 Cancún atmosphere and music sizzles with excitement. Its daytime incarnation is The City Beach Club, open at 8am,

which boasts a wave pool for surfing Nightlife A to Z and boogie-boarding, a water slide, and food service. The Terrace Bar, overlooking Kukulcán, serves food and drinks all day, but the night comes alive after 10pm, when the 2,322m2 (25,000-square-foot), multilevel club opens with stunning light shows, nine bars, a pulsating dance floor, and VIP areas. A second City Coco Bongo in Cancún. has opened in Playa del Carmen. Km 9.5 Kukulcán. y 998/848-8380. ★ Dady’O & Dady Rock HOTEL www.thecitycancun.com. Cover $20, ZONE This two-headed nightclub, w/open bar $25. Never closes. opposite the Forum by the Sea, is a super popular place for young ★★ Coco Bongo HOTEL ZONE adults where the rock music rolls This is still one of the hottest spots out onto the street. Actually, in Cancún’s club scene, despite Dady’O is a mind-bending disco some stiff competition from The rave, with frequent long lines and a City, next door. Coco Bongo is one cover charge of $15. It opens at huge pit, with no designated dance 10pm. Dady Rock is also a Bar & floor, so the 3,000 party-hardy Grill that opens at 6pm until when- patrons dance anywhere and every- ever and combines live rock bands where—including on tabletops and with DJs, an open bar, full meals, a on stage with the live band. The buffet, and dancing. Km 9.5 Kukul- music is all over the board, includ- cán. y 998/883-3333. Cover $15. ing reggae, hip-hop, classic rock, Open nightly 10pm–4am. and techno. It draws a mixed crowd, but the young dominate. ★★ Glazz HOTEL ZONE One of Lots of whistle-blowing and yards of Cancún’s newest nocturnal offer- cheap tequila. Forum by the Sea, ings, Glazz combines a sleek lounge Km 9.5 Kukulcán. y 998/883-5061. with a sophisticated nightclub for a www.cocobongo.com.mx. Cover $15 complete evening of Miami club- or $25 open bar. 10pm–dawn. style entertainment. Geared for the

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150 Cancún

Coco Bongo in the Hotel Zone.

over-30 crowd, the music is mostly your typical Spring-Breaky, frat-party lounge and house, with live enter- disco clubs, and you won’t find too tainment acts (anything from drum- many typical Cancún Hotel Zone mers to sultry dancers) periodically tourists there. It’s right in the middle through the evening. The China of downtown, across the street from Bistro is earning rave reviews, while City Hall, so it’s a relatively safe the lounge’s selection of martinis place. Av. Tulum (at Azucenas, and “tequilatinis” is tempting. Dress above Super Sandwich Shop). No code: no shorts, no sandals. La Isla phone. Cover varies. No credit cards. Shopping Center, Km 12.5. y 998/ Opens at 11pm. 883-1855. www.glazz.com.mx. ★ La Parilla DOWNTOWN There’s Cover $10. Open 7pm–5am. no better place to have an authentic ★ Hacienda Sisal HOTEL ZONE Mexican meal, sip a cerveza, and lis- Next to the Royal Sands Hotel, the ten to the boisterous music of mari- Hacienda Sisal is a stand-alone din- achis, the wandering minstrels of ner nightclub, in a decor that evokes Mexico. And you can sing along if the romance of Old Mexico. It offers you know the tunes. La Parilla grew a Las Vegas–style buffet dinner from a small street-side grill into a show, complete with gorgeous cos- local chain of Mexican restaurants. tumes and plenty of leg, on Monday, Av. Yaxchilan. y 998/884-5398. Wednesday, and Thursday. Mari- Open daily noon–4am. achis play from 7pm to 7:45pm, the ★★ Lobby Lounge HOTEL ZONE show is from 8pm to 9pm, and a The ritzy Lobby Lounge, in the Ritz- dance band performs from 9pm to Carlton Hotel, features live music to midnight. Only in Mexico would the dance to and 120 premium tequilas dance band have Saturday night off. for tasting or sipping. The Lounge Km 13.5 Kukulcán. y 998/848-8220. attracts a sophisticated, mature Dinner show $37. Open 5pm–1am. crowd—think well-heeled in high Karamba DOWNTOWN The heels. Returno del Rey, Km 13.5 seductive Karumba was recently Kukulcán. y 800/241-3333. remodeled and upgraded, and it’s ★★ Lobster Dinner Cruise now drawing under-the-radar HOTEL ZONE Order up a 1-pound crowds of gay, transvestite, lesbian, lobster or beef steak aboard a and open-minded straight party romantic cruise around the Nichupté people. It’s a bit more edgy than 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 151

151 Cancún lagoon on the Columbus galleon. vibe. Evenings feature live music The meal could be better, but the mixed with Buffett concert videos setting is unique. Afternoon and and dancing. Naturally, they serve

starlight cruises feature an open bar margaritas with a real bite at the bar, Nightlife A to Z and live entertainment for dancing called “Fins.” Flamingo Plaza, Km 11.5 on the deck. Royal Plaza & Marina, Kukulcán. y 998/885-2375. No cover. Km 6.2 Kukulcán. y 998/849-4748. Open daily 10am–2am. www.thelobsterdinner.com. $79. ★★★ = Parque Las Palapas Departure 4:30pm and 7:30pm. DOWNTOWN This park, anchored ★★★ = Mango Tango HOTEL by a giant palapa-covered stage, is ZONE When you’re in a party the scene of frequent festivals, fies- mood, this lagoon-side restaurant tas, and celebrations, depending on and dinner-show establishment is a the holiday. But you can depend on good choice. Diners can choose live tropical music concerts and a from two levels—one closer to the fair for Noches Caribeñas (Caribbean musical entertainment and the Nights) every Sunday at 7:30pm. other overlooking it all. The music is Often things happen here during loud and varied, but many a night the day and other weekend evenings. features reggae and salsa, and It’s well worth a shot to show up. there’s a 45-minute floor show Calles Alcatraces & Margaritas nightly at 8:30pm. Packages for din- (between Tulum and Yaxchilán ner and show, open bar and show, aves.). No Phone. Free. or just show start at $40. Dancing at ★ Périco’s DOWNTOWN This Can- 9:30pm has a $10 cover. Km 14.5 cún legend is a cantina-style bar and Kukulcán. y 998/885-0303. restaurant where the waiters wear ★★ Margaritaville HOTEL ZONE bandoliers and wide sombreros, and Was Jimmy Buffett singing about the bar stools are real leather sad- Cancún when he described being dles. Mariachis play on stage or at “wasted away again in Margaritaville?” your table, and once in a while every- That’s what they’d have you believe at one gets up in a conga line. It’s good this music-happy restaurant and bar clean fun. Av. Yaxchilan 61. y 998/ that strives for a Parrothead concert 884-3152. Open daily noon–2am.

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152 Cancún Shopping A to Z

Cancún ★ Chedraui DOWNTOWN The where the Beatles came from? Well, supermarket/department store of in Mexico, Liverpool is a luxury choice in downtown Cancún is this department store chain with a wide two-story building on the corner of selection of name-brand goods from Tulum & Av. Cobá. Downstairs has a top designers and manufacturers. supermarket and bakery; upstairs it Their new “Duty Free” outlet in La sells department store–type items Isla Shopping Mall features upscale such as clothes. Everything costs items including jewelry, pens, less than in the Hotel Zone; buy watches, cameras, and perfumes, your snorkel gear here. Another with savings over U.S. prices. La Isla location is in Plaza Las Americas. Shopping Mall and Plaza Las Ameri- Aves. Tulum & Cobá. y 998/887- cas, downtown. y 998/881-1500. 2111. AE, MC, V. Open 6am–11pm. www.liverpool.com.mx. AE, MC, V. Open daily 11am–10pm. ★★ Columbian Emeralds International HOTEL ZONE You ★★ Maraf HOTEL ZONE Maraf may never have heard of them, but was established in 1981 by a Mexi- this precious stone jewelry business can family who opened a jewelry has enjoyed a reputation for quality store in Cancun’s first shopping cen- and value for more than 30 years. ter. They must have done it right, Their duty-free store in Cancún because they claim their new “jew- belies the size of their online busi- elry boutique” in Kukulcán Plaza is ness. They sell not only rings, neck- the largest specialty jewelry shop in laces, bracelets, and earrings of Mexico. They do a good job bridging emeralds, but of diamonds, sap- the gap between traditional and phires, tanzanite, rubies, gold, avant-garde designs, in a wide pearls, and semi-precious stones as mix of products that includes well. Best of all, we liked that we could browse without pressure to Wares from Mercado 28 downtown. buy. La Isla Shopping Mall. y 998/ 883-1219. www.colombianemeralds. com. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Coral Negro Flea Market HOTEL ZONE Straddling the middle of Kukulcán Boulevard, where the island bends, the “Black Coral” is a series of small shops in a long white building. If you’re not leaving the Hotel Zone, it’s a good place to get souvenirs— and an introduction to the negotiation process (otherwise you’ll pay more). Km 9.5 Kukulcán. No phone. No credit cards. Open 7am–11pm. ★ Liverpool HOTEL ZONE/DOWN- TOWN Maybe you thought Mexi- can “style” was all about sombreros and blankets over the shoulder? Or that Liverpool was someplace 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 153

153 Cancún Shopping A to Z

La Isla Shopping Village.

atelier custom-made jewelry, classic other flea markets on Tulum time pieces, and leather fashion Avenue.—where hawkers claim it’s accessories. La Isla Shopping Mall. “cheaper than Kmart” and as the y 998/883-1251. www.maraf.com. most popular place to shop. The AE, MC, V. Open daily 10am– wider aisles here alleviate some 10:30pm. of the pressure when you’re eye- balling the goods, but the prices ★ = Martí Deportiva DOWN- are not necessarily lower. They TOWN/HOTEL ZONE It can be a have some pleasant eateries in the blast for sports-minded tourists to center for typical Mexican food. shop in Mexico’s largest chain of Aves. Tankah & Sunyaxchen. No sports stores, chock-full of tempting Phone. No credit cards. goods. Martí offers a full range of sports supplies, active gear, snorkel ★★★ Pewter Factory DOWN- equipment, clothing, and team jer- TOWN We stumbled on the Pewter seys (especially fútbol). Ironically, Factory after once looking long and baseball is more popular in Yucatán hard in Cancún for a quality, authen- than soccer, and the Leones, the tic Mexican gift to take home. The professional baseball team in dazzling pewter pieces here come in Mérida, won the Mexican League an array of designs and images. Mir- Championship in 2006. They’re rors, trays, napkin holders, service located in Plaza Las Americas, sets, wall decor, traditional religious downtown, with a soccer shop and icons, and novelty pieces all shine in Nike outlet in La Isla Shopping Mall this amazing shop. It’s also overflow- as well. Plaza Flamingo. y 998/883- ing with brightly colored pottery, 5025. AE, MC, V. Open daily including gigantic vases, and real 10am–11pm. www.marti.com.mx. Talavera earthenware—the oldest tin-glazed ceramic in the Ameri- ★★★ = Mercado 28 cas. Values are excel- DOWNTOWN This lent, and they ship shaded open-air all over the globe. market, Mercado Plaza Bonita (next Veinte-ocho, has to Mercado 28), usurped the Av. Xel-Ha.

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154 Cancún’s Major Malls Cancún Besides a number of flea markets and a few shops downtown, most of the shopping options in Cancún are in malls, and most of those are in the Hotel Zone. Here’s a roundup: ★★ = Forum by the Sea HOTEL ZONE This entertainment and restaurant-heavy shopping mall houses Harley- Davidson, Levi’s, Swatch, Diesel, and Tommy Hilfiger. Restaurants include Cambalache, Rainforest Café, Caliente, and Hard Rock Café. Km 9 Kukulcán. y 998/883-4425. Open 10am–midnight; restaurants and bars open later. ★★★ = La Isla Shopping Center HOTEL ZONE La Isla is Cancún’s largest, poshest mall. As in an open-air “village,” shops line walkways crisscrossed by small canals. Its Luxury Avenue includes Ultrafemme, Bvlgary, Crabtree & Evelyn, and Liverpool. It has a boardwalk facing the lagoon, an inter- active aquarium, movies, and restaurants. Km 12.5 Kukul- cán. y 998/883-5025. www.laislacancun.com.mx. Open daily 10am–10pm. ★★★ Plaza Bonita DOWNTOWN Plaza Bonita is our favorite place to shop in a cute Mexican village setting with multicolor buildings. The highlights include an herbal shop that sells copal incense, Smoker’s Stylish for the freshest Cuban cigars, and the must-visit Pewter Factory, which has the best price and selection for hand-crafted pewter and pottery for the home. They ship to the U.S. Next to Mercado 28 (behind the post office), Av. Xel-Ha. y 998/884-7105. ★★★ Plaza Caracol HOTEL ZONE Near the Convention Center and all the action, Plaza Caracol is a good mix of great restaurants and nearly 200 shops, including Cartier Jewelry, Waterford Crystal, Sybele Boutique, Ultrajewels, Samsonite Luggage, and Guess. If La Isla is just too big for you, this plaza is perfect. Km 8.5 Kukulcán.y 998/883-1038. Open daily 10am–10pm.

★★ = Tulum Avenue Flea labyrinth of stalls as well. At the far Markets DOWNTOWN Tulum side, on Av. Nader, are some good Avenue once boasted the best flea small restaurants. Plaza Mexico is a market bargains and was a popular much smaller series of stalls near stop when tourists went downtown. the middle of Tulum, and Plaza They’re still offering bargains, but Garibaldi, on the corner with Av. it’s to fewer people since Mercado Uxmal, is also a good place to hag- 28 rose to fashion. Ki Huic is the old- gle for what you want. All sell typical est and largest of the three merca- souvenirs, clothing, and gifts. Tulum dos (markets) downtown, with Avenue, between aves. Cobá and street-front stalls and an indoor Uxmal. No phone. Open 9am–10pm 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 155

155 Cancún Shopping A to Z ★ Plaza Flamingo HOTEL ZONE This centrally located, air- conditioned mall has a popular scenic walking path along the lagoon behind it. Their small fast food court is good for a cheap eat. Small shops feature clothes, jewelry, and sporting goods. Km 11 Kukulcán. y 998/883-2855. www.flamingo. com. ★★★ = Plaza Kukulcán HOTEL ZONE As the largest American-style indoor mall, in one huge building, Plaza Kukul- cán is very popular with shoppers and diners alike. There’s a Señor Frog’s store, Gaitán Leather, Tikal (which sells Guatemalan textile clothing), several leather goods stores, and a store specializing in silver from Taxco among its many offerings. Fashion Gallery features designer fashions. An upstairs food court houses 16 different fast-food outlets, and it has an English-language first-run cinema. Restaurants include OK Maguey, Ruth’s Chris, and a Houlihan’s. Km 13 Kukulcán. y 998/885-2200. Open 10am–11pm. Restau- rants open later. ★★ Plaza Las Americas DOWNTOWN A Sears store anchors one end of this middle-class mall, the upscale Mexi- can department store Liverpool is in the center, and a Chedraui is at the other end. Parking is available underground, and on the small second level there’s the super-cool VIP Cinépolis movie house and Yax Sports Book. Tulum Avenue between Av. Sayil and Av. Nichupté. y 998/887- 5893. Open daily 10am–10pm. Plaza Maya Fair HOTEL ZONE Frequently called the “May- fair,” the Maya Fair is the oldest shopping center in the Hotel Zone. It has a lively center with restaurants such as San- born’s and Outback Steak House, but other, newer malls have sapped its sales spirit. Km 8 Kukulcán. y 998/883- 0862. Open daily 9am–9pm.

with a midafternoon siesta in some in their downtown, Tulum Avenue shops. store. Various locations; main branch Plaza Kukulcán. y 998/848-7300. ★★★ Ultrafemme HOTEL ZONE/ AE, MC, V. Open 11am–10pm. DOWNTOWN This duty free–priced perfume and cosmetics shop is now ★★ UltraJewels HOTEL ZONE/ open at 10 locations in the Riviera DOWNTOWN UltraJewels is the Maya. They carry Lancôme, Estée “official” retailer of Rolex in the Riv- Lauder, Clinique, Dior, Chanel, La Mer, iera Maya and a major dealer in La Prairie, Helena Rubenstein, Ori- such select brands as Cartier, gins, Shiseido, and Mac, among Chopard, Mont Blanc, Tiffany & Co., others. The prices seem a tad better Roberto Coin, David Yurman, and 11_081198 ch07.qxp 1/10/07 6:00 PM Page 156

156 Shopping Center, and downtown in Plaza Las Americas. Various locations; main branch Plaza Kukulcán. y

Cancún 998/848-7300. AE, MC, V. Open 11am–10pm. ★ Wayan Natural Wear HOTEL ZONE This is a stylish store that focuses on “natural clothing” made from cottons, many of which are hand-dyed or left in their organic color, as well as pottery and handicrafts. Wayan, which roughly means “Here I Am” in Mayan, features Mex- ican and African goods, with a touch of Indonesia thrown in, in styles that have a multilevel appeal. Just looking is fun; the shops are decorated like the interior of a big hut. Plaza Flamingo and Plaza Kukulcán. y 998/885-0200.

Street vendors downtown. Zara HOTEL ZONE Zara is a hip, American-style store selling fashion- other world-famous jewelers. able women’s clothing, shoes, and Renowned designers such as accessories in La Isla Shopping Mall. Christofle, Lalique, Lladró, and It draws a mostly young clientele Swarovski have created items in with up-to-date designs plus a small their exclusive gift lines. Locations selection of children’s clothes. are in the Hotel Zone in Plaza Cara- La Isla Shopping Mall. y 998/883- col and on Luxury Avenue in La Isla’s 5025. AE, MC, V. Daily 9am–10pm. 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 157

The Savvy Traveler 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 158

158 Before You Go

Government Tourist Offices staying close to the beaches, but for The Mexican Government Tourist those bent on road-tripping to Board has offices in major North Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, or other sites, American cities, in addition to the temperatures and humidity in the Savvy Traveler Savvy main office in Mexico City (y 55/ interior can be downright stifling 5278-4200). from May to July. Later in the rainy The United States: Chicago (y 312/ season, the frequency of tropical 228-0517); Houston (y 713/772- storms and hurricanes increases; 2581, ext. 105, or 713/772-3819); such storms, of course, can put a Los Angeles (y 310/282-9112); crimp in your vacation. But they can and New York (y 212/308-2110). lower temperatures, making climb- The Mexican Embassy is at 1911 ing ruins a real joy, accompanied by Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, cool air and a slight wind. November DC 20005 (y 202/728-1750 or is especially ideal for Yucatán travels. 202/728-1600). Canada: 2055 Rue Cancún, Cozumel, and Isla Mujeres Peel, Suite 1000, Montreal, QC H3A also have a rainy season from 1V4 (y 514/288-2502); Commerce November to January, when north- Court West, 199 Bay St., Suite 4440, ern storms hit. This usually means Toronto, ON M5L 1E9 (y 416/925- diving visibility is diminished— 0704); 710 West Hastings St., Suite and conditions may prevent boats 1177, Vancouver, BC V6E 2K3 from even going out. (y 604/684-1859); Embassy office: Mexico has two main climate 1500-45 O’Connor St., Ottawa, ON seasons: rainy (May–mid-Oct) and K1P 1A4 (y 613/233-8988; fax 613/ dry (mid-Oct–Apr). Hurricane sea- 235-9123). son particularly affects the Yucatán Peninsula and the southern Pacific When to Go/Weather coast, especially June through Octo- High season in the Yucatán is ber. However, if no hurricanes strike, December 20 through Easter. This the light, cooling winds, especially is the best time for calm, warm September through November, can weather; snorkeling, diving, and make it a perfect time to tackle the fishing (the calmer weather means pre-Hispanic ruins that dot the inte- clearer and more predictable seas); rior of the peninsula. and for visiting the ruins that dot the Norte (northern) season runs interior of the peninsula. Book well from late November to mid-January, in advance if you plan to be in Can- when the jet stream dips far south cún around the holidays. Low sea- and creates northerly winds and son is the day after Easter through showers in many resort areas. mid-December; during low season, These showers usually last only prices may drop 20% to 50%. In Can- for a couple of days. cún and along the Riviera Maya, June, July, and August are unre- demand by European visitors is cre- lentingly hot on the Yucatán Penin- ating a summer high season, with sula and in most coastal areas, hotel rates approaching those though temperatures rise only into charged in the winter months. the mid-80s to 90°F (mid-20s–32°C). Mexico’s dry season runs from Most of coastal Mexico experiences November to April, and the rainy temperatures in the 80s (20s°C) in season stretches from May to the hottest months. October. It isn’t a problem if you’re 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 159

159 Before Festivals & Special Events before Good Friday. The week fol- During national holidays, Mexican lowing Easter is also a traditional banks and governmental offices— vacation period. (April)

including Immigration—are closed. Cinco de Mayo. National holiday. You Go SPRING Spring Equinox, Chichén This holiday celebrates the defeat of Itzá. On the first day of spring, the the French at the Battle of Puebla. Temple of Kukulkán—Chichén Itzá’s (May 5). main pyramid—aligns with the sun, Cancún Jazz Festival. For dates and the shadow of the plumed ser- and schedule information, check pent moves slowly from the top of y 800/44-MEXICO or www. the building down. When the cancun.info. (May) shadow reaches the bottom, the FALL Independence Day. This body joins the carved stone snake’s day of parades, picnics, and family head at the base of the pyramid. reunions throughout the country According to ancient legend, at the celebrates Mexico’s independence moment that the serpent is whole, from Spain. At 11pm on September the earth is fertilized to ensure a 15, the president of Mexico gives bountiful growing season. Visitors the famous independence grito come from around the world to (shout) from the National Palace in marvel at this sight, so advance Mexico City, and local mayors do the arrangements are advisable. The same in every town and municipality serpent view is at its peak on March all over Mexico. On September 16, 21, but the shadow can be seen every city and town conducts a from March 19 to 23. Elsewhere, the parade in which both government equinox is celebrated with festivals and civilians display their pride in and celebrations to welcome spring being Mexican. For these celebra- in the custom of the ancient Mexi- tions, all important government cans, with dances and prayers to buildings are draped in the national the elements and the four cardinal colors—red, green, and white—and points, to renew their energy for the the towns blaze with lights. (Sep- year. It’s customary to wear white tember 15 and 16; September 16 is with a red ribbon. (March) a national holiday.) Holy Week (Semana Santa). This Fall Equinox, Chichén Itzá. The celebrates the last week in the life of same shadow play that occurs dur- Christ from Palm Sunday to Easter ing the spring equinox repeats at Sunday with somber religious pro- the fall equinox. September 21 to cessions almost nightly, spoofing of 22. Judas, and reenactments of specific biblical events, plus food and craft “Ethnicity Day” or Columbus Day fairs. Businesses close during this (Día de la Raza). This commemo- traditional week of Mexican national rates the fusion of the Spanish and vacations. Mexican peoples. October 12. If you plan on traveling to or Day of the Dead (Día de los Muer- around Mexico during Holy Week, tos). The Day of the Dead is actually make your reservations early. Airline 2 days: All Saints’ Day, honoring seats on flights into and out of the saints and deceased children; and country will be reserved months in All Souls’ Day, honoring deceased advance. Buses to almost anywhere adults. On the 2 nights, children in Mexico will be full, so try arriving dress in costumes and masks, often on the Wednesday or Thursday carrying mock coffins and pumpkin 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 160

160 lanterns through the streets, into businesses close. In traditional which they expect money will be indigenous communities, new tribal dropped. November 1 and 2; leaders are inaugurated with color- November 1 is a national holiday. ful ceremonies rooted in the pre-His- Revolution Day. National holiday. panic past. January 1. This commemorates the start of the Three Kings Day (Día de Reyes). Mexican Revolution in 1910 with Nationwide. Commemorates the Savvy Traveler Savvy parades, speeches, rodeos, and Three Kings bringing gifts to the patriotic events. November 20. Christ Child. On this day, children The Sixth Annual Yucatán Bird Festi- receive presents, much like the tra- val, Mérida, Yucatán. Bird-watching ditional gift-giving that accompa- sessions, workshops, and exhibits nies Christmas in the United States. are the highlights of this festival, January 6. designed to illustrate the special Carnaval. This celebration takes role birds play in our environment place over the 3 days preceding Ash and in the Yucatán territory. Wednesday and the beginning of Call y 800/44-MEXICO or check Lent. It is celebrated with special out www.yucatanbirds.org.mx for gusto in Cozumel, where it resem- details. Mid-November. bles Mardi Gras in New Orleans, WINTER Feast of the Virgin of with a festive atmosphere and Guadalupe. Throughout the coun- parades. Transportation and hotels try, religious processions, street are packed, so it’s best to make fairs, dancing, fireworks, and reservations well in advance and Masses honor the patroness of arrive a couple of days before the Mexico. This is one of Mexico’s most celebrations begin. moving and beautiful displays of Ash Wednesday. The start of Lent traditional culture. The Virgin of and a time of abstinence, this is a Guadalupe appeared to a young day of reverence nationwide, but man, Juan Diego, in December some towns honor it with folk danc- 1531, on a hill near Mexico City. He ing and fairs. convinced the bishop that he had seen the apparition by revealing his Useful Websites cloak, upon which the Virgin was • www.cancunmx.com This site emblazoned. Every village cele- is a good place to start planning. brates this day. December 12. There’s a database of answers to Christmas. Mexicans extend this the most common questions, celebration and often leave their called “The Online Experts.” jobs beginning 2 weeks before • www.cancun.info The official Christmas all the way through New site of the Cancún Convention Year’s Day. Many businesses close, & Visitors Bureau lists excellent and resorts and hotels fill up. Signifi- information on events and attrac- cant celebrations take place on tions. Its hotel guide is one of the December 24. most complete available, and it New Year’s Eve. As in the rest of has an active message board. the world, New Year’s Eve in Mexico • www.mexicoweb.com/chats/ is celebrated with parties, fireworks, cancun On one of the more and plenty of noise. December 31. active chats online about Cancún, New Year’s Day (Año Nuevo). users share inside information on National holiday. Perhaps the qui- everything from the cheapest etest day in all of Mexico; most peo- beer to the quality of food at vari- ple stay home or visit church. All ous all-inclusive resorts. 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 161

161 Getting There Getting • www.isla-mujeres.net The • www.locogringo.com This is official site of the Isla Mujeres a good resource for travel infor- Tourism Board provides com- mation for the southern Riviera plete information on Isla, from Maya—Akumal and Tulum. getting there to where to stay. • www.thenettraveler.com This • www.myislamujeres.com site specializes in information Get a local’s view of the island; about the Yucatán, Quintana Roo especially notable are the active (home state of Cancún), and other chat room and message boards. areas in the old Maya empire. Its • www.cozumel.net This site information on archaeological is a cut above the typical dining/ sites and on diving in caves and lodging/activities sites. Click on cenotes is especially good. “About Cozumel” to find sched- • www.nationalgeographic. ules for ferries and island-hop com/explorer/maya/more.html flights, and to check the latest A fascinating collection of articles news. There’s also a compre- from National Geographic and hensive listing of B&Bs and other sources. vacation home rentals, plus • www.mayayucatan.com great info on diving, maps, and Yucatán’s Ministry of Tourism a chat room. maintains this site. It has an • www.travelnotes.cc This site update section and good general has 1,000 pages of information info on different destinations in with photos on Cozumel—with the state. an emphasis on ocean activities. • www.mexonline.com/ • www.rivieramaya.com Good yucatan.htm A nice roundup general info that’s kept up-to- of vacation rentals, tour opera- date. You’ll find a comprehensive tors, and information on the Maya list of accommodations and serv- sites. For more information on ice providers for this coast as Mexico’s indigenous history, see well as special deals that some the links on the pre-Columbian hotels occasionally offer through page (www.mexonline.com/ this website. precolum.htm).

Getting There

By Plane the southwestern outskirts of town, The Yucatan has two sizeable inter- near the entrance to Highway 180. national airports: Cancún Interna- The main airlines operating direct tional Airport (Carretera Cancún- or nonstop flights from the United Chetumal KM 22, y 998/848-7200, States to Mexico include Aero 998/886-0322, both numbers in California (y 800/237-6225), Spanish only; www.cancun-airport. Aeromexico (y 800/237-6639; com) offers the most extensive serv- www.aeromexico.com), Air France ice. Merida–Licenciado Manuel (y 800/237-2747; www.airfrance. Crecencio Rejon Int´l Airport com), Alaska Airlines (y 800/ (y 55-71-63-96) is smaller, located 252-7522; www.alaskaair.com), 13km (8 miles) from the city center on America West (y 800/327-7810; 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 162

162 www.americawest.com), American southwest.com) serves the U.S. Airlines (y 800/223-5436; www. border. aa.com), Continental (y 800/537- The main departure points in 9222; www.continental.com), North America for international Frontier Airlines (y 800/432- airlines are Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas/ 1359; www.frontierairlines.com), Fort Worth, Denver, Houston, Mexicana (y 800/531-7921; Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Miami,

Savvy Traveler Savvy www.mexicana.com), Northwest/ New York, Orlando, Philadelphia, KLM (y 800/225-2525; www.nwa. Phoenix, Raleigh/Durham, San Anto-

The com), Taca (y 800/400-8222; nio, San Francisco, Seattle, Toronto, www.taca.com), United (y 800/ and Washington, D.C. 538-2929; www.united.com), and US Airways (y 800/428-4322; By Car www.usairways.com). Southwest See “Getting Around: By Car,” Airlines (y 800/435-9792; www. below. Getting Around

By Plane By Car Mexico has two large private national Most Mexican roads are not up to carriers: Mexicana (y 01-800/ U.S. standards. Driving at night is 509-8960 toll-free in Mexico) and dangerous—the roads are rarely lit; Aeromexico (y 01-800/021-4000 trucks, carts, pedestrians, and bicy- toll-free in Mexico), in addition to sev- cles usually have no lights; and you eral up-and-coming regional carriers. can hit potholes, animals, rocks, Mexicana and Aeromexico offer dead ends, or uncrossable bridges extensive connections to the United without warning. The spirited style States as well as within Mexico. of Mexican driving sometimes Several new regional carriers requires super vision and reflexes. are operated by or can be booked Mexico charges some of the through Mexicana or Aeromexico. highest tolls in the world for its net- Regional carriers are Mexicana’s work of new toll roads; as a result, Clic and Aero Mar, and Aeromex- they are rarely used. Generally ico’s Aerolitoral. For points inside speaking, though, using toll roads the state of Oaxaca only—Oaxaca cuts travel time. Older toll-free City, Puerto Escondido, and Huat- roads are generally in good condi- ulco—contact Zapotec Tours tion, but travel times tend to be (y 800/44-OAXACA, or 773/506- longer. 2444 in Illinois). The regional carriers You’ll get the best car-rental are expensive, but they go to diffi- price if you reserve a car at least a cult-to-reach places. In each applica- week in advance in the United ble section of this book, we’ve States. U.S. car-rental firms include mentioned regional carriers with all Advantage (y 800/777-5500 in the pertinent telephone numbers. U.S. and Canada; www.arac.com), Click Mexicana, a Mexicana Avis (y 800/331-1212 in the U.S., affiliate (y 998/884-2000), flies 800/TRY-AVIS in Canada; www.avis. from Cozumel, Mexico City, Mérida, com), Budget (y 800/527-0700 in Chetumal, and other points within the U.S. and Canada; www.budget. Mexico. com), Hertz (y 800/654-3131 in the 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 163

163 Fast Facts U.S. and Canada; www.hertz.com), Volkswagen Beetle at press time, with National (y 800/CAR-RENT in the unlimited mileage (but before 15% tax U.S. and Canada; www.nationalcar. and $15 daily insurance), was $48 in com), and Thrifty (y 800/847-4389 Cancún and $38 in Mérida. Renting in the U.S. and Canada; www.thrifty. by the week gives you a lower daily com), which often offers discounts rate. Avis was offering a basic 7-day for rentals in Mexico. For European rate for a VW Beetle (before tax or travelers, Kemwel Holiday Auto insurance) of $220 in Cancún and (y 800/678-0678; www.kemwel. $180 in Mérida. com) and Auto Europe (y 800/ 223-5555; www.autoeurope.com) By Bus can arrange Mexican rentals, some- Mexican buses run frequently, are times through other agencies. readily accessible, and can get you These and some local firms have almost anywhere you want to go. offices in Mexico City and most They’re often the only way to get other large Mexican cities. You’ll find from large cities to other nearby rental desks at airports, all major cities and small villages. hotels, and many travel agencies. Cars are easy to rent if you are By Taxi 25 or over and have a major credit Taxis are the preferred way to get card, valid driver’s license, and pass- around most of Mexico’s resort port with you. Without a credit card, areas. Fares for short trips within you must leave a cash deposit, usu- towns are generally preset by zone ally a big one. One-way rentals are and are quite reasonable compared usually simple to arrange but more with U.S. rates. For longer trips or costly. excursions to nearby cities, taxis Car-rental costs are high in Mexico can generally be hired for around because cars are more expensive. $10 to $15 per hour, or for a negoti- The basic cost of the 1-day rental of a ated daily rate.

Fast Facts

ABBREVIATIONS Dept. (apart- favorable than that at a currency ments); Apdo. (post office box); house. Most machines offer Spanish/ Av. (avenida; avenue); c/ (calle; English menus and dispense pesos, street); Calz. (calzada; boulevard). but some offer the option of with- “C” on faucets stands for caliente drawing dollars. (hot), “F” for fría (cold). “PB” BUSINESS HOURS In general, busi- (planta baja) means ground floor; nesses in larger cities are open in most buildings the next floor up between 9am and 7pm; in smaller is the first floor (1). towns many close between 2 and ATMS/CASHPOINTS & BANKS Banks 4pm. Most close on Sunday. In tend to be open weekdays 9am until resort areas it is common to find 5pm, and often half day on Satur- stores open at least in the mornings day. Most major cities and resort on Sunday, and for shops to stay areas have plentiful ATMs. Universal open late, often until 8pm or even bankcards (such as the Cirrus and 10pm. Bank hours are Monday PLUS systems) can be used. The through Friday from 9 or 9:30am to exchange rate is generally more anywhere between 3 and 7pm. 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 164

164

Increasingly, banks open on Satur- EMERGENCIES In case of emergency, day for at least a half day. dial y 065 from any phone within CAR RENTALS See “Getting Around,” Mexico. The 24-hour Tourist Help p. 162. Line in Mexico City is y 01-800/ 987-8224 or 55/5089-7500, or you DRUG LAWS Mexican officials have no can now simply dial 078. The opera- tolerance for drug users, and jail is tors don’t always speak English, their solution, with very little hope of Savvy Traveler Savvy but they are always willing to help. getting out until the sentence (usually The tourist legal assistance office a long one) is completed or heavy The (Procuraduría del Turista) in Mexico fines or bribes are paid. Remember, City (y 55/5625-8153 or 55/5625- in Mexico the legal system assumes 8154) always has an English speaker you are guilty until proven innocent. available. Though the phones are ELECTRICITY The electrical system in frequently busy, they operate 24 Mexico is 110 volts AC (60 cycles), hours. as in the United States and Canada. HOLIDAYS See “Festivals & Special In reality, however, it may cycle Events,” p. 159. more slowly and overheat your appliances. To compensate, select a INTERNET ACCESS In large cities and medium or low speed on hair dry- resort areas, a growing number of ers. Many older hotels still have top hotels offer business centers electrical outlets for flat two-prong with Internet access. You’ll also find plugs; you’ll need an adapter for any cybercafes in destinations that are plug with an enlarged end on one popular with expats and business prong or with three prongs travelers. Even in remote spots, Internet access is common. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES The Embassy of the United States in LANGUAGE Spanish is the official lan- Mexico City is at Paseo de la guage in Mexico. English is spoken Reforma 305 (y 55/5080-2000 and understood to some degree in or 55/5511-9980). Visit www.us most tourist areas. Mexicans are embassy-mexico.gov for addresses very accommodating with foreign- of the U.S. consulates inside Mexico. ers who try to speak Spanish, even There are U.S. Consulates General in broken sentences. For basic in Cancún (y 998/883-0272), vocabulary, refer to “Spanish Basics,” Cozumel (y 987/872-4574), and p. 170. Mérida (y 999/925-5011). LEGAL AID International Legal The Embassy of Australia in Defense Counsel, 111 S. 15th St., Mexico City is at Rubén Darío 55, 24th Floor, Packard Building, Col. Polanco (y 55/51101-2200). Philadelphia, PA 19102 (y 215/ The Embassy of Canada in Mexico 977-9982), is a law firm specializing City is at Schiller 529, Col. Polanco in the legal difficulties of Americans (y 55/5724-7900). There is a Cana- abroad. dian consulate in Cancún (y 998/ LIQUOR LAWS The legal drinking age 883-3360) as well. The Embassy of in Mexico is 18; however, asking for the United Kingdom in Mexico City ID or denying purchase is extremely is at Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc rare. Grocery stores sell everything (y 55/5242-8500; www.embajada from beer and wine to national and britanica.com.mx). The Embassy of imported liquors. You can buy liquor Ireland in Mexico City is at Bulevar 24 hours a day, but during major Cerrada, Avila Camacho 76, 3rd elections, dry laws often are floor, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec enacted for as much as 72 hours in (y 55/5520-5803). 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 165

165 Fast Facts advance of the election—and they TELEPHONE & FAX The country apply to tourists as well as local resi- code for Mexico is 52. To call Mex- dents. It is illegal to drink in the ico from the United States, Dial street, but many tourists do so. Use 011-52, then the two- or three-digit your judgment—if you are getting area code, and then the eight- or drunk, you are more likely to get seven-digit number. To make inter- stopped by the police. national calls: To make interna- MAIL Postage for a postcard or letter tional calls from Mexico, first dial 00, is 1 peso; it may arrive anywhere and then the country code (U.S. or from 1 to 6 weeks later. A registered Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Aus- letter costs $1.90 pesos. Sending a tralia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, package can be quite expensive—the dial the area code and number. For Mexican postal service charges $8 directory assistance: Dial y 040 pesos per kilo (2.2 lb.)—and unreli- if you’re looking for a number inside able; it takes 2 to 6 weeks, if it arrives Mexico. Note: Listings usually at all. The recommended way to send appear under the owner’s name, a package or important mail is not the name of the business, and through FedEx, DHL, UPS, or another your chances of finding an English- reputable international mail service. speaking operator are slim to none. For operator assistance: If you NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES There need operator assistance in making currently is no national English- a call, dial 090 to make an interna- language newspaper. Newspaper tional call, and 020 to call a number kiosks in larger cities carry a selec- in Mexico. Toll-free numbers: tion of English-language magazines. Numbers beginning with 800 within POLICE Outside Mexico City, espe- Mexico are toll-free, but calling a cially in the tourist areas, most U.S. toll-free number from Mexico police are very protective of interna- costs the same as an overseas call. tional visitors. Several cities, includ- TIME ZONE Central time prevails ing Cancún, have a special corps of throughout the Yucatán. All of Mex- English-speaking Tourist Police to ico observes daylight saving time. assist with directions, guidance, and more. TIPPING Most service employees in Mexico count on tips for the major- SMOKING Smoking is permitted and ity of their income, and this is espe- generally accepted in most public cially true for bellboys and waiters. places, including restaurants, bars, Bellboys should receive the equiva- and hotel lobbies. lent of 50¢ to $1 per bag; waiters TAXES The 15% IVA (value-added) generally receive 10% to 20%, tax applies on goods and services in depending on the level of service. It most of Mexico, and it’s supposed is not customary to tip taxi drivers, to be included in the posted price. unless they are hired by the hour or This tax is 10% in Cancún and provide touring or other special Cozumel. There is a 5% tax on food services. and drinks consumed in restaurants TOILETS Public toilets are not com- that sell alcoholic beverages with an mon in Mexico, but an increasing alcohol content of more than 10%; number are available, especially at this tax applies whether you drink fast-food restaurants and Pemex gas alcohol or not. Tequila is subject to stations. These facilities and restau- a 25% tax. Mexico imposes an exit rant and club restrooms commonly tax of around $24 on every for- have attendants, who expect a small eigner leaving the country, as well tip (about 50¢). as a tourism tax of $18. 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 166

166 Yucatán History

10,000–1500 B.C. Archaic period: 800 Bonampak murals are painted. Hunting and gathering; later, the 900 Post-Classic period begins: dawn of agriculture: domestica- More emphasis is placed on war- tion of chiles, corn, beans, avo- Savvy Traveler Savvy fare in central Mexico. The Toltec cado, amaranth, and pumpkin. culture emerges at Tula and Mortars and pestles in use. The replaces Teotihuacán as the Stone bowls and jars, obsidian dominant city of central Mexico. knives, and open-weave basketry Toltec influence spreads to the developed. Yucatán, forming the culture of 1500 B.C.–A.D. 300 Pre-Classic the Itzaés, who become the period: Olmec culture develops rulers of Chichén Itzá. large-scale settlements and irri- 909 This is the date on a small gation methods. Cities spring up. monument at Toniná (near San Olmec influence spreads over Cristóbal de las Casas), the last other cultures in the Gulf Coast, Long Count date yet discovered, central and southern Mexico, symbolizing the end of the Clas- Central America, the lower sic Maya era. Mexican Pacific coast, and the Yucatán. Several cities in central 1156–1230 Tula, the Toltec capital, is and southern Mexico begin the abandoned. construction of large ceremonial 1325–1470 Aztec capital Tenochtitlán centers and pyramids. The Maya is founded; Aztecs begin military develop several city-states in Chi- campaigns in the Valley of Mexico apas and Central America. and then thrust farther out, sub- 1000–900 B.C. Olmec San Lorenzo jugating the civilizations of the center is destroyed; the Olmec Gulf Coast and southern Mexico. begin anew at La Venta. 1516 Gold found on Cozumel during 600 B.C. La Venta Olmec cultural aborted Spanish expedition of zenith. Yucatán Peninsula arouses interest of Spanish governor in Cuba, A.D. 300–900 Classic period: Broad who sends Juan de Grijalva on an influence of Teotihuacán culture expedition, followed by another, and the establishment there of a led by Hernán Cortez. truly cosmopolitan urbanism. Satellite settlements spring up 1518 Spaniards first visit what is across central Mexico and as far today Campeche. away as Guatemala. Trade and 1519 Conquest of Mexico begins: cultural interchange with the Hernán Cortez and troops make Maya and the Zapotec flourish. their way along Mexican coast to The Maya perfect the calendar present-day Veracruz. and improve astronomical calcu- lations. They build grandiose 1521 Conquest is complete after cities at Palenque, Calakmul, and Aztec defeat at Tlatelolco. Cobá, and in Central America. 1521–24 Cortez organizes Spanish 683 Maya King Pacal is buried in an empire in Mexico and begins elaborate tomb below the Palace building Mexico City on the ruins of the Inscriptions at Palenque. of Tenochtitlán. 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 167

167 Yucatán 1524–35 Cortez is removed from 1864–67 Second Empire: The French power, and royal council governs invade Mexico in the name of New Spain. Maximilian of Austria, who is appointed emperor of Mexico. 1526 King of Spain permits Francisco History Juárez and the liberal government Montejo to colonize the Yucatán. retreat to the north and wage 1535–1821 Viceregal period: 61 war with the French forces. The viceroys appointed by king of French finally abandon Mexico Spain govern Mexico. Control of and leave Maximilian to be much of the land ends up in the defeated and executed. hands of the Church and the 1847–66 War of the Castes in the politically powerful. A governor Yucatán: Poverty and hunger who reports to the king rather cause the Maya to revolt and than to viceroys leads the gain control of half of the penin- Yucatán. sula before being defeated by 1542 Mérida is established as capital the Mexican National Army. But of Yucatán Peninsula. lingering warfare lasts well into the 20th century in the most 1546 The Maya rebel and take con- remote parts of the peninsula. trol of the peninsula. 1872–76 Juárez dies, and political 1559 French and Spanish pirates struggles ensue for the attack Campeche. presidency. 1562 Friar Diego de Landa destroys 1877–1911 Porfiriato: Porfirio Díaz, 5,000 Maya religious stone figures president/dictator of Mexico for and burns 27 hieroglyphic painted 33 years, leads country to mod- manuscripts at Maní, Yucatán. ernization by encouraging for- Those Maya believed to be eign investment in mines, oil, and secretly practicing pre-Hispanic railroads. Mexico witnesses the beliefs endure torture and death. development of a modern econ- 1810–21 War of Independence: omy and a growing disparity Miguel Hidalgo starts movement between rich and poor. Social for Mexico’s independence from conditions, especially in rural Spain but is executed within a areas, become desperate. year; leadership and goals 1911–17 Mexican Revolution: Fran- change during the war years, but cisco Madero drafts revolutionary Agustín de Iturbide outlines a plan. Díaz resigns. Leaders jockey compromise between monarchy for power during period of great and republic. violence, national upheaval, and 1822 First Empire: Iturbide ascends tremendous loss of life. throne as emperor of Mexico, 1917–40 Reconstruction: Present con- loses power after a year, and stitution of Mexico is signed; land loses life in an attempt to reclaim and education reforms are initiated throne. and labor unions strengthened; 1824–64 Early Republic period, char- Mexico expropriates oil companies acterized by almost perpetual and railroads. Pancho Villa, Zapata, civil war between federalists and and presidents Obregón and Car- centralists, conservatives and lib- ranza are assassinated. erals, culminating in the victory 1940 Mexico enters period of politi- of the liberals under Juárez. cal stability and makes steady 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 168

168 economic progress. Quality of life accusations of corruption and improves, although problems of ties to drug money. After many corruption, inflation, national months in hiding, he turns him- health, and unresolved land and self in and is imprisoned. agricultural issues continue. 2000 Mexico elects Vicente Fox of 1974 Quintana Roo achieves state- the PAN party president. hood and Cancún opens to Savvy Traveler Savvy 2002 The PAN party wins the gover- tourism. norship of the Yucatán.

The 1994–97 Mexico, Canada, and the 2005 Two hurricanes, Emily and United States sign the North Wilma, inflict great damage on American Free Trade Agreement Cancún, Cozumel, and the Riviera (NAFTA). An Indian uprising in Maya. Chiapas sparks countrywide protests over government poli- 2006 Felipe Calderón, candidate for cies concerning land distribution, the PAN, wins an extremely close bank loans, health, education, presidential election over Andrés and voting and human rights. Manuel López Obrador, candidate for the PRD. The PRI candi- 1999 The governor of Quintana date, Roberto Madrazo, comes in Roo goes into hiding following a distant third.

Yucatecan Architecture

Pre-Hispanic Forms true arch was unknown in Mexico’s pyramids were truncated Mesoamerica, but the Maya made platforms crowned with a temple. use of the corbelled arch—a method Many sites have circular buildings, of stacking stones that allows each such as El Caracol at Chichén Itzá, successive stone to be cantilevered usually called the observatory and out a little farther than the one dedicated to the god of the wind. below it, until the two sides meet at El Castillo at Chichén Itzá has 365 the top, forming an inverted V. steps—1 for every day of the year. The Olmec, considered the par- The Temple of the Magicians at ent culture of Mesoamerica, built Uxmal has beautifully rounded and pyramids of earth. Unfortunately, sloping sides. Evidence of building little remains to tell us what their one pyramidal structure on top of buildings looked like. The Olmec, another, a widely accepted practice, however, left an enormous sculp- has been found throughout tural legacy, from small, intricately Mesoamerica. carved pieces of jade to 40-ton Architects of many Toltec, Aztec, carved basalt rock heads. and Teotihuacán edifices alternated Throughout Mexico, carved sloping panels (talud) with vertical stone and mural art on pyramids panels (tablero). Elements of this style served a religious and historical occasionally show up in the Yucatán. function rather than an ornamental Dzibanché, a newly excavated site one. Hieroglyphs, picture symbols near Lago Bacalar, in southern etched on stone or painted on walls Quintana Roo state, has at least one or pottery, functioned as the written temple with this characteristic. The language of the ancient peoples, 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 169

169 Yucatecan particularly the Maya. By decipher- to build the new buildings, often ing the glyphs, scholars allow the guided by drawings of European ancients to speak again, providing buildings. Frequently left on their us with specific names to attach to own, the indigenous artisans rulers and their families, and demys- implanted traditional symbolism in tifying the great dynastic histories of the new buildings: a plaster angel Architecture the Maya. For more on this, read A swaddled in feathers, reminiscent of Forest of Kings (1990), by Linda the god Quetzalcoatl, and the face Schele and David Freidel, and Blood of an ancient god surrounded by of Kings (1986), by Linda Schele and corn leaves. They used pre-Hispanic Mary Ellen Miller. Good hieroglyphic calendar counts—the 13 steps to examples appear in the site heaven or the nine levels of the museum at Palenque. underworld—to determine how Carving important historical fig- many florets to carve around the ures on free-standing stone slabs, or church doorway. stelae, was a common Maya com- To convert the native populations, memorative device. Calakmul has New World Spanish priests and archi- the most, and good examples are tects altered their normal ways of on display in the Museum of Anthro- teaching and building. Often before pology in Mexico City. Pottery the church was built, an open-air played an important role, and differ- atrium was constructed to accom- ent indigenous groups are distin- modate large numbers of parish- guished by their different use of ioners for services. Posas (shelters) color and style. The Maya painted at the four corners of churchyards pottery with scenes from daily and were another architectural technique historical life. unique to Mexico, again to accom- Pre-Hispanic cultures left a num- modate crowds. Because of the lan- ber of fantastic painted murals, guage barrier between the Spanish some of which are remarkably pre- and the natives, church adornment served, such as those at Bonampak became more explicit. Biblical tales and Cacaxtla. Amazing stone murals came to life in frescoes splashed or mosaics, using thousands of across church walls. Christian sym- pieces of fitted stone to form figures bolism in stone supplanted that of of warriors, snakes, or geometric pre-Hispanic ideas as the natives designs, decorate the pyramid tried to make sense of it all. facades at Uxmal and Chichén Itzá. Baroque became even more baroque in Mexico and was dubbed Spanish Influence churrigueresque or ultrabaroque. With the arrival of the Spaniards, Exuberant and complicated, it com- new forms of architecture came to bines Gothic, baroque, and plater- Mexico. Many sites that were occu- esque elements. pied by indigenous groups at the Almost every village in the time of the conquest were razed, Yucatán Peninsula has the remains and in their place appeared Catholic of missions, monasteries, con- churches, public buildings, and vents, and parish churches. Many palaces for conquerors and the were built in the 16th century fol- king’s bureaucrats. In the Yucatán, lowing the early arrival of Franciscan churches at Izamal, Tecoh, Santa friars. Examples include the Mission Elena, and Muná rest atop former of San Bernardino de Sisal in Val- pyramidal structures. Indian arti- ladolid; the fine altarpiece at Teabo; sans, who formerly worked on the folk-art retablo (altarpiece) at pyramidal structures, were recruited Tecoh; the large church and convent 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 170

170 at Mani with its retablos and lime- Mexican subject paintings using stone crucifix; the facade, altar, and techniques learned abroad. central retablo of the church at Oxkutzcab; the 16-bell belfry at Mexican Muralism Ytholin; the baroque facade and As the Mexican Revolution ripped the altarpiece at Maxcanu; the cathedral country apart between 1911 and at Mérida; the vast atrium and 1917, a new social and cultural Mex-

Savvy Traveler Savvy church at Izamal; and the baroque ico was born. In 1923, Minister of retablo and murals at Tabi. Education José Vasconcelos was

The When Porfirio Díaz became presi- charged with educating the illiterate dent in the late 19th century, the masses. As one means of reaching nation’s art and architecture experi- people, he invited Diego Rivera and enced another infusion of European several other budding artists to paint sensibility. Díaz idolized Europe, and Mexican history on the walls of the he commissioned a number of strik- Ministry of Education building and the ing European-style public buildings, National Preparatory School in Mex- including many opera houses. He ico City. Thus began the tradition of provided European scholarships to painting murals in public buildings, promising young artists who later which you will find in towns and cities returned to Mexico to produce throughout Mexico and the Yucatán.

Spanish Basics

Useful Phrases ENGLISH SPANISH PRONUNCIATION Good day Buen día Bwehn dee-ah Good morning Buenos días Bweh-nohs dee-ahs How are you? ¿Cómo está? Koh-moh eh-stah Very well Muy bien Mwee byehn Thank you Gracias Grah-syahs You’re welcome De nada Deh nah-dah Goodbye Adiós Ah-dyohs Please Por favor Pohr fah-bohr Yes Sí See No No Noh Excuse me Perdóneme Pehr-doh-neh-meh Give me Déme Deh-meh Where is . . . ? ¿Dónde está . . . ? Dohn-deh eh-stah the station la estación lah eh-stah-syohn a hotel un hotel oon oh-tehl a gas station una gasolinera oo-nah gah-soh-lee-neh-rah a restaurant un restaurante oon res-tow-rahn-teh the toilet el baño el bah-nyoh a good doctor un buen médico oon bwehn meh-dee-coh the road to . . . el camino a/hacia . . . el cah-mee-noh ah/ah-syah To the right A la derecha Ah lah deh-reh-chah To the left A la izquierda Ah lah ees-kyehr-dah Straight ahead Derecho Deh-reh-choh I would like Quisiera Key-syeh-rah 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 171

171 Spanish I want Quiero Kyeh-roh to eat comer koh-mehr a room una habitación oo-nah ah-bee-tah-syohn Do you have . . . ? ¿Tiene usted . . . ? Tyeh-neh oo-sted a book un libro oon lee-broh Basics a dictionary un diccionario oon deek-syoh-nah-ryoh How much is it? ¿Cuánto cuesta? Kwahn-toh kweh-stah When? ¿Cuándo? Kwahn-doh What? ¿Qué? Kay There is (Is there . . . ?) (¿)Hay (. . . ?) Ay What is there? ¿Qué hay? Kay eye Yesterday Ayer Ah-yer Today Hoy Oy Tomorrow Mañana Mah-nyah-nah Good Bueno Bweh-noh Bad Malo Mah-loh Better (best) (Lo) Mejor (Loh) Meh-hohr More Más Mahs Less Menos Meh-nohs No smoking Se prohibe fumar Seh proh-ee-beh foo-mahr Postcard Tarjeta postal Tar-heh-tah poh-stahl Insect repellent Repelente contra Reh-peh-lehn-teh cohn-trah insectos een-sehk-tohs

More Useful Phrases English Spanish Pronunciation Do you speak English? ¿Habla usted inglés? Ah-blah oo-sted een-glehs Is there anyone ¿Hay alguien Eye ahl-gyehn here who speaks aquí que hable ah-kee kay ah-bleh English? inglés? een-glehs I speak a little Hablo un poco Ah-bloh oon poh-koh Spanish. de español. deh eh-spah-nyohl I don’t understand No (lo) entiendo Noh (loh) ehn-tyehn-doh Spanish very well. muy bien mwee byehn el español. el eh-spah-nyohl The meal is good. Me gusta la comida. Meh goo-stah lah koh-mee-dah What time is it? ¿Qué hora es? Kay oh-rah ehs May I see ¿Puedo ver Pweh-doh vehr your menu? el menú (la carta)? el meh-noo (lah car-tah) The check, please. La cuenta, Lah kwehn-tah por favor. pohr fa-borh What do I owe you? ¿Cuánto le debo? Kwahn-toh leh deh-boh What did you say? ¿Mande? (formal) Mahn-deh ¿Cómo? (informal) Koh-moh I want (to see) . . . Quiero (ver) . . . kyeh-roh (vehr) a room un cuarto or oon kwar-toh, una habitación oo-nah ah-bee-tah-syohn for two persons para dos personas pah-rah dohs pehr-soh-nahs with (without) con (sin) baño kohn (seen) bah-nyoh bathroom 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 172

172 We are staying Nos quedamos Nohs kay-dah-mohs here only . . . aquí solamente . . . ah-kee soh-lah-mehn-tay one night una noche oo-nah noh-cheh one week una semana oo-nah seh-mah-nah We are leaving . . . Partimos Pahr-tee-mohs (Salimos) . . . (sah-lee-mohs) tomorrow mañana mah-nya-nah

Savvy Traveler Savvy Do you accept . . . ? ¿Acepta usted . . . ? Ah-sehp-tah oo-sted traveler’s checks? cheques de cheh-kehs day

The viajero? byah-heh-roh Is there a ¿Hay una Ay oo-nah laundromat . . .? lavandería . . .? lah-bahn-day-ree-ah near here? cerca de aquí? sehr-kah day ah-kee Please send Hágame el favor Ah-gah-may el fah-bohr these clothes de mandar day mahn-dahr to the laundry. esta ropa a eh-stah roh-pah a la lavandería. lah lah-bahn-deh-ree-ah

Numbers 1 uno (ooh-noh) 2 dos (dohs) 3 tres (trehs) 4 cuatro (kwah-troh) 5 cinco (seen-koh) 6 seis (sayes) 7 siete (syeh-tay) 8 ocho (oh-choh) 9 nueve (nweh-beh) 10 diez (dyehs) 11 once (ohn-seh) 12 doce (doh-seh) 13 trece (treh-seh) 14 catorce (kah-tohr-seh) 15 quince (keen-seh) 16 dieciseis (dyeh-see-sayes) 17 diecisiete (dyeh-see-syeh-tay) 18 dieciocho (dyeh-syoh-choh) 19 diecinueve (dyeh-see-nweh-beh) 20 veinte (bayn-teh) 30 treinta (trayn-tah) 40 cuarenta (kwah-ren-tah) 50 cincuenta (seen-kwen-tah) 60 sesenta (seh-sehn-tah) 70 setenta (seh-tehn-tah) 80 ochenta (oh-chehn-tah) 90 noventa (noh-behn-tah) 100 cien (syehn) 200 doscientos (do-syehn-tohs) 500 quinientos (kee-nyehn-tohs) 1,000 mil (meel) 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 173

173 Spanish Food Terms Achiote Small red seed of the annatto tree. Achiote preparado A Yucatecan-prepared paste made of ground achiote, wheat and corn flour, cumin, cinnamon, salt, onion, garlic, and oregano. Agua fresca Fruit-flavored water, usually watermelon, cantaloupe, chia seed Basics with lemon, hibiscus flour, rice, or ground melon-seed mixture. Antojito Typical Mexican supper foods, usually made with masa or tortillas and having a filling or topping such as sausage, cheese, beans, and onions; includes such things as tacos, tostadas, sopes, and garnachas. Atole A thick, lightly sweet, hot drink made with finely ground corn and usually flavored with vanilla, pecan, strawberry, pineapple, or chocolate. Botana An appetizer. Buñuelos Round, thin, deep-fried crispy fritters dipped in sugar. Carnitas Pork deep-cooked (not fried) in lard, and then simmered and served with corn tortillas for tacos. Ceviche Fresh raw seafood marinated in fresh lime juice and garnished with chopped tomatoes, onions, chiles, and sometimes cilantro. Chayote A vegetable pear or mirliton, a type of spiny squash boiled and served as an accompaniment to meat dishes. Chiles en nogada Poblano peppers stuffed with a mixture of ground pork and beef, spices, fruits, raisins, and almonds. Can be served either warm—fried in a light batter—or cold, sans the batter. Either way it is then covered in walnut- and-cream sauce. Chiles rellenos Usually poblano peppers stuffed with cheese or spicy ground meat with raisins, rolled in a batter, and fried. Churro Tube-shaped, breadlike fritter, dipped in sugar and sometimes filled with cajeta (milk-based caramel) or chocolate. Cochinita pibil Pork wrapped in banana leaves, pit-baked in a pibil sauce of achiote, sour orange, and spices; common in the Yucatán. Enchilada A tortilla dipped in sauce, usually filled with chicken or white cheese, and sometimes topped with mole (enchiladas rojas or de mole); or with tomato sauce and sour cream (enchiladas suizas—Swiss enchiladas); or covered in a green sauce (enchiladas verdes); or topped with onions, sour cream, and guacamole (enchiladas potosinas). Escabeche A lightly pickled sauce used in Yucatecan chicken stew. Frijoles refritos Pinto beans mashed and cooked with lard. Garnachas A thickish small circle of fried masa with pinched sides, topped with pork or chicken, onions, and avocado, or sometimes chopped potatoes and tomatoes, typical as a botana in Veracruz and the Yucatán. Gorditas Thick, fried corn tortillas; slit and stuffed with a choice of cheese, beans, beef, chicken; with or without lettuce, tomato, and onion garnish. Horchata Refreshing drink made of ground rice or melon seeds, ground almonds, cinnamon, and lightly sweetened. Huevos mexicanos Scrambled eggs with chopped onions, hot green peppers, and tomatoes. Huitlacoche Sometimes spelled “cuitlacoche.” A mushroom-flavored black fungus that appears on corn in the rainy season; considered a delicacy. Manchamantel Translated, means “tablecloth stainer.” A stew of chicken or pork with chiles, tomatoes, pineapple, bananas, and jicama. Masa Ground corn soaked in lime; the basis for tamales, corn tortillas, and soups. 12_081198 savvy.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 174

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Mixiote Rabbit, lamb, or chicken cooked in a mild chile sauce (usually chile ancho or pasilla), and then wrapped like a tamal and steamed. It is generally served with tortillas for tacos, with traditional garnishes of pickled onions, hot sauce, chopped cilantro, and lime wedges. Pan de muerto Sweet bread made around the Days of the Dead (Nov 1–2), in the form of mummies or dolls, or round with bone designs. Pan dulce Lightly sweetened bread in many configurations, usually served at

Savvy Traveler Savvy breakfast or bought in any bakery. Papadzules Tortillas stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and seeds (pumpkin or sun-

The flower) in a tomato sauce. Pibil Pit-baked pork or chicken in a sauce of tomato, onion, mild red pepper, cilantro, and vinegar. Pipián A sauce made with ground pumpkin seeds, nuts, and mild peppers. Poc chuc Slices of pork with onion marinated in a tangy sour orange sauce and charcoal-broiled; a Yucatecan specialty. Pozole A soup made with hominy in either chicken or pork broth. Pulque A drink made of fermented juice of the maguey plant; best in the state of Hidalgo and around Mexico City. Quesadilla Corn or flour tortillas stuffed with melted white cheese and lightly fried. Queso relleno “Stuffed cheese,” a mild yellow cheese stuffed with minced meat and spices; a Yucatecan specialty. Rompope Delicious Mexican eggnog, invented in Puebla, made with eggs, vanilla, sugar, and rum. Salsa verde An uncooked sauce using the green tomatillo and puréed with spicy or mild hot peppers, onions, garlic, and cilantro; on tables countrywide. Sopa de flor de calabaza A soup made of chopped squash or pumpkin blossoms. Sopa de lima A tangy soup made with chicken broth and accented with fresh lime; popular in the Yucatán. Sopa de tortilla A traditional chicken broth–based soup, seasoned with chiles, tomatoes, onion, and garlic, served with crispy fried strips of corn tortillas. Sopa tlalpeña (or caldo tlalpeño) A hearty soup made with chunks of chicken, chopped carrots, zucchini, corn, onions, garlic, and cilantro. Sopa tlaxcalteca A hearty tomato-based soup filled with cooked nopal cactus, cheese, cream, and avocado, with crispy tortilla strips floating on top. Sope An antojito similar to a garnacha, except spread with refried beans and topped with crumbled cheese and onions. Tacos al pastor Thin slices of flavored pork roasted on a revolving cylinder dripping with onion slices and juice of fresh pineapple slices. Served in small corn tortillas, topped with chopped onion and cilantro. Tamal Incorrectly called a tamale (tamal singular, tamales plural). A meat or sweet filling rolled with fresh masa, wrapped in a corn husk or banana leaf, and steamed. Tikin xic Also seen on menus as “tik-n-xic” and “tikik chick.” Charbroiled fish brushed with achiote sauce. Tor ta A sandwich, usually on bolillo bread, typically with sliced avocado, onions, and tomatoes, with a choice of meat and often cheese. Xtabentun Pronounced “shtah-behn-toon.” A Yucatecan liquor made of fermented honey and flavored with anise. It comes seco (dry) or crema (sweet). Zacahuil Pork leg tamal, packed in thick masa, wrapped in banana leaves, and pit-baked, sometimes pot-made with tomato and masa; a specialty of mid- to upper Veracruz. 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 175

175 Index Uxmal, 25, 57, 87 Boulevard Kukulcán, 17 Xpujil, 60, 82 Bulldog Café (Cancún), 147, Index Architecture, Yucatecan, 148 See also Accommoda- 168–170 Bullfights, Cancún, 132 tions and Restaurant Arts and crafts Buses, 163 Campeche, 92 Business hours, 163 indexes, below. Cancún, 131–132 Bus station, Playa del Mérida, 110–111 Carmen, 121 A Valladolid, 77, 126–127 Abbreviations, 163 Ash Wednesday, 160 C Accommodations, 9. See Atlantis Submarine Caesar Park Hotel Golf also Accommodations (Cozumel), 98 Club, 37 Index ATMs (automated teller Calakmul, 60–61, 81, 82 Campeche, 94 machines), 163 Calakmul Biosphere Reserve Cancún, 140–145 Azucar (Cancún), 6, 13, 133, (Campeche), 45, 82 Cozumel, 100 147, 148 Calle 41A (Valladolid), 127 Isla Mujeres, 106 Camaleon Mayakoba, 38 Mérida, 117–118 B Campeche, 4, 25, 80–82, Playa del Carmen, 122 Bacalar, Lake, 25, 82 90–95 Riviera Maya, 75 bird-watching, 68 accommodations, 94 southern Quintana Ball Court, Chichén Itzá, brief description of, Roo, 83 55, 79 80–81, 91 Valladolid, 128 Baluarte de la Soledad nightlife, 95 Western Yucatán, 88 (Campeche), 81, 91 restaurants, 95 Addresses, finding, 10 Baluarte de San Carlos sights and attractions, Air travel, 161–162 (Campeche), 81, 93 91–93 Aktun Chen caves, 47 Baluarte de Santiago Cancún, 22, 71–72, 129–156 Akumal, 30 (Campeche), 92 accommodations, reef, 34 Bar Leaping Tour (Cancún), 140–145 Alux (Playa del Carmen), 121 147, 148 for kids, 49–50 Amigos de Sian Ka’an, 47 Beaches, 28–31 nightlife, 147–151 Ana y José Hotel & Spa Cancún, 29 restaurants, 136–139 (Tulum), 65 Isla Mujeres, 28–29 shopping, 152–156 Año Nuevo (New Year’s Puerto Morelos, 29–30 spas, 62–63 Day), 160 Tankah, 31 suggested itinerary, Anthropology Museum Tulum, 31 12–13 (Mérida), 115 Becán, 25, 60, 82 Cancún International Aqua (Cancún), 62–63 Bird-watching, 67–68 Airport, 161 Archaeological sites and Calakmul Biosphere Cancún Jazz Festival, 159 ruins, 54–61 Reserve, 45 Cancún Oasis Golf Becán, 60, 82 Celestún, 67 Club, 37 Calakmul, 60–61 Celestún National Carnaval, 160 Chacchoben, 68 Wildlife Refuge, 44 Car rentals, 162–163 Chicanna, 60, 82 Chichén Itzá, 67 Car travel, 162–163 Chichén Itzá, 55–57 Isla Contoy Bird Casa del Agua (Puerto Cobá, 61 Sanctuary, 41 Aventuras), 65 Dzibanché, 82 pink flamingos, 3, 44, 67 Casa de las Artesanias Edzná, 25, 58–59, 81, 93 Puerto Morelos, 67 (Mérida), 110–111 Ek Balam, 77–78 Rio Lagartos Nature Casa de Montejo (Mérida), Forest of Kings, Reserve, 42, 67 85, 110 60–61, 82 Sixth Annual Yucatán Casa de Teniente del Rey Isla Mujeres, 105 Bird Festival, 160 (Campeche), 92 Kabah, 58 species found only in Casa 6 (Seis; Campeche), Kinich Kakmo Yucatán, 68 91–92 (Izamal), 86 Blue Bayou (Cancún), 133 Caste War of the Yucatán Kinichná, 82 Blue Parrot (Playa del (Valladolid), 125–126 Labná, 58 Carmen), 121 Catedral de San Ildefonso Punta Sur, 99 Boca Paila Road (Tulum), (Mérida), 85, 109–110 San Gervasio 31, 74 Cathedral de la Concepción (Cozumel), 99 Botanical Gardens (Puerto (Campeche), 81, 92 Sayil, 58 Morelos), 67 Tulum, 61 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 176

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Cathedral of San Gervacio Christmas, 4, 160 Xcalak, 35 (Valladolid), Chunyaxché, 68 Xcaret, 52 77, 125 Church of San Bernardino of Dolphin Discovery

Index Caves Siena (Valladolid), 127 Cancún, 49 Aktun Chen caves, 47 Church of Santa Ana (Val- Cozumel, 99 Loltún Caves, 58 ladolid), 125–126 Isla Mujeres, 104–105 Cazadores Reposado Cinco de Mayo, 159 Dolphins, swimming with (Cancún), 133 Cinépolis VIP (Cancún), Cancún, 49 Celestún, 3, 24, 86 147, 148 Xel-Ha, 53 bird-watching, 67 The City (Cancún), 132, 147, Dolphin’s World (Xel-Ha), 53 Celestún National Wildlife 148–149 Dovecote (Uxmal), 57 Refuge, 44 City Museum (Mérida), 112 Drug laws, 164 Celestún Nature Reserve, 86 Cobá, 61 Dry season, 158 Cenote Dzitnup, 43 Coco Bongo (Cancún), 132, Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón Cenote of Sacrifice, 14, 56 147, 149 (Mérida), 24, 111 Cenotes, 4 Columbian Emeralds Interna- Dzibanché, 60, 82 Hidden Worlds Cenote, tional (Cancún), 152 35 Columbia reef, 34 E Ruta de Cenotes, 51 Columbus Day, 159 EcoColors (Cancún), 42, Sacred Cenote (Chichén Consulates, 164 46–47, 133 Itzá), 79 Convento de San Antoñio de Ecotourism, 40–47 Tankah, 31 Padua (Izamal), 86 Ecoturismo Yucatan, 47 Xke’ken and Samula Cooking classes, Mérida, Edzná, 25, 58–59, 81, 93 (near Valladolid), 118 Ek Balam, 54–55, 77–78 43–44, 77, 127 Coral Negro Flea Market, El Arte Maya (Mérida), 110 Zací (Valladolid), 77, 126 13, 152 El Caracol (Chichén Itzá), Cenote Samula (near Val- Cozumel, 26, 73–74, 96–101 56, 79 ladolid), 43–44, 77, 127 accommodations, 100 El Castillo Cenote Xke’ken (near Val- brief description of, 97 Chichén Itzá, 14, 55, 79 ladolid), 43–44, 77, 127 nightlife, 100 Tulum, 61 Cenote Zací (Valladolid), restaurants, 101 Electricity, 164 77, 126 sights and attractions, El Nuevo Olimpo (Mérida), Central Plaza (Playa del 97–99 111 Carmen), 120–121 snorkeling and diving, El Palacio (Sayil), 58 Central Yucatán, 76–79 34 Embassies and consulates, Centro de Investigaciones Cozumel Country Club, 164 (Isla Mujeres), 104 38, 98 Emergencies, 164 Centro Ecológico Sian Cozumel Museum, 97 Entertainment, Xcaret Spec- Ka’an, 47 Crafts tacular Night, 52–53 Centro Historico Campeche, 92 Estrella del Norte, 41 Campeche, 81 Cancún, 131–132 “Ethnicity Day,” 159 Mérida, 85 Mérida, 110–111 Ex-Convento of Sisal (Val- Chacchoben, 68 Valladolid, 77, 126–127 ladolid), 77, 127 Chac mask (Labná), 58 CrocoCun (near Puerto Expediciones Ecoturísticas Chac Mool altar (Chichén Morelos), 51, 67 (Campeche), 45 Itzá), 56 Chankanaab National Park, D F 34, 74, 98 Dady’O & Dady Rock Fall Equinox, 159 Chankanaab reef, 34 (Cancún), 147, 149 Families with children, 49–53 Charrería (Xcaret), 52 Day of the Dead (Día de los Feast of the Virgin of Chedraui (Cancún), 152 Muertos), 159–160 Guadalupe, 160 Chetumal, 25, 82 Xcaret, 15 Ferry Pier Chicanna, 25, 60, 82 Desire Resort (Puerto Cozumel, 97 Chicanna Eco-Village, 25 Morelos), 64 Isla Mujeres, 103 Chichén Itzá, 5, 14, 18–19, Día de la Raza, 159 Playa del Carmen, 120 23, 55–57, 133 Día de Reyes, 160 Festivals and special events, bird-watching, 67 Diving, 3–4. See also 159–160 brief description of, Cenotes Fisherman’s Cooperative 78–79 Cozumel, 34, 99 (Isla Mujeres), 41 Children, families with, 49–53 Isla Mujeres, 33 Flamingos, 3, 44, 67 Puerto Morelos, 33 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 177

177 Index Flea markets Horse-drawn buggies, Kinich Kakmo (Izamal), 86 Cancún, 6 Mérida, 113 Kinichná, 60, 82 Coral Negro Flea Hotels, 9. See also Accom- Kohunlich, 25, 60, 82 Market, 13, 152 modations Index KY8 (Campeche), 95 Mercado 28, 17, 22, Campeche, 94 131–132, 153 Cancún, 140–145 L Folk art. See Handicrafts Cozumel, 100 Labná, 58 Folklore Museum (Cancún), Isla Mujeres, 106 La Boom (Cancún), 147 50 Mérida, 117–118 La Casa de Montejo Food terms, 173–174 Playa del Carmen, 122 (Mérida), 85, 110 Forest of Kings ruins, Riviera Maya, 75 La Fiesta, 13 60–61, 82 southern Quintana Lafitte’s (Campeche), 95 Fuerte-Museo San Miguel Roo, 83 La Iglesia (Cobá), 61 (Campeche), 93 Valladolid, 128 Language, 164 Fuerte San Miguel Western Yucatán, 88 La Parilla (Cancún), 147, 150 (Campeche), 81 Hurricanes, 158 Las Palapas Chimbos (Isla Hurricane season, 158 Mujeres), 18 G Hurricane Wilma, 10 Legal aid, 164 Garganta del Diablo, 99 Le Meridien spa (Cancún), 63 Garrafón (Isla Mujeres), 71 I Light and Sound Spectacular Garrafón Park (Isla Mujeres), Iberostar Playa Paraiso Golf (Campeche), 81, 93 29, 50, 105 Club, 37–38 Lighthouse, Isla Mujeres, Glazz (Cancún), 133, 147, 149 Iglesia de Jesus (Mérida), 105 Golf, 36–38 112 Liquor laws, 164–165 Cozumel, 98 Iglesia de San Miguel Liverpool (Cancún), 152 Governor’s Palace (Mérida), (Cozumel), 98 Lobby Lounge at Ritz 85, 111 Iglesia de Santa Lucia (Cancún), 147, 150 Governor’s Palace (Uxmal), (Mérida), 114 Lobster Dinner Cruise 57, 87 Independence Day, 159 (Cancún), 147, 150 Graveyard (Isla Mujeres), 104 Internet access, 164 Loltún Caves, 58 Great Acropolis (Edzná), Isla Contoy, 5, 50 Loma Bonita Ranch (near 59, 81 Isla Contoy Bird Sanctuary, Puerto Morelos), 51 Great Mesoamerican 41 Los Cinco Soles (Cozumel), 98 Reef, 33 Isla Holbox, 133 Los Dos Cooking School and Great Plaza (Edzná), 59 Isla Mujeres, 4, 18, 70–71, B&B, 118 Great Pyramid (Uxmal), 102–107 Los Mascarones (Kohunlich), 57, 87 accommodations, 106 60 Great Temple (Kabah), 58 beaches, 28–29 Low season, 158 Group of a Thousand for kids, 50 Columns (Chichén Itzá), restaurants, 107 M 56, 79 snorkeling and diving, MACAY Contemporary Art 33 Museum (Mérida), 110 H Itineraries, suggested, 12–26 Mail, 165 Haciendas, 117 in one week, 16–21 Main Plaza Hacienda Sisal (Cancún), 150 in three days, 12–15 Cozumel, 97 Hamacas El Aguacate in two weeks, 22–26 Dzibanché, 60 (Mérida), 114 Izamal, 6, 24, 86 Mérida, 85, 112 Hammocks, 114 Valladolid, 77, 124–125 Handicrafts J Malecón Campeche, 92 Journey into Amazing Caves Campeche, 91 Cancún, 131–132 (IMAX movie), 35 Cozumel, 97 Mérida, 110–111 Jungle Tour (Cancún), 49–50 Isla Mujeres, 103 Valladolid, 77, 126–127 JW Marriott (Cancún), spa Mambo Café (Playa del Hidden Worlds Cenote, 35 at, 63 Carmen), 121 High season, 158 Mango Tango (Cancún), History of Yucatán, 166–168 K 147, 151 Holy Week (Semana Santa), Kabah, 58 Mantanceros (wreck), 34 159 Karen’s Bar & Grill (Playa del Maracaibo reef, 34 Horseback riding, near Carmen), 121 Maraf (Cancún), 152 Puerto Morelos, 51 Karumba (Cancún), 150 Margaritaville (Cancún), Kids, 49–53 147, 151 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 178

178

Maroma Hotel (Playa Mexican Government Tourist Paseo de Montejo (Mérida), Maroma), spa at, 64 Board, 158 86 Martí Deportiva (Cancún), Moon Palace, 37 Paseo Montejo (Mérida),

Index 153 Mundaca’s Hacienda (Isla 6, 115 Mayakoba (Playa del Mujeres), 104 Périco’s (Cancún), 151 Carmen), spa at, 64 Municipal Palace Pewter Factory (Cancún), Mayan Resorts Golf Club, 37 Mérida, 85 132, 153 Mayan River (Xcaret), 15 Valladolid, 125 Pink flamingos, 3, 44, 67 Mayan Village River (Xcaret), Muralism, 170 Platform of the Skulls 52 Museo de la Ciudad (Chichén Itzá), 79 Maya ruins, 54–61 (Campeche), 93 Playacar Golf Club, 38 Becán, 60, 82 Museo Regional de Playa del Carmen, 26, Calakmul, 60–61 Antropología (Mérida), 72–73, 120–123 Chacchoben, 68 115 accommodations, 122 Chicanna, 60, 82 Museum of Anthropology nightlife, 121 Chichén Itzá, 55–57 (Mérida), 115 restaurants, 123 Cobá, 61 Museum of the Maya spas, 64–65 Dzibanché, 82 (Chetumal), 82 Playa Delfines (Cancún), Edzná, 25, 58–59, 81, 93 Muyil, 67, 68 72, 131 Ek Balam, 77–78 Playa Lancheros (Isla Forest of Kings, 60–61, N Mujeres), 18, 29, 82 New Year’s Day (Año Nuevo), 50, 105 Isla Mujeres, 105 160 Playa Maroma, spa at, 64 Kabah, 58 New Year’s Eve, 160 Playa’s Alltournative, 73 Kinich Kakmo (Izamal), Nightlife Playa Soliman, 30–31 86 Campeche, 95 Plaza Bonita (Cancún), Kinichná, 82 Cancún, 147–151 132, 154 Labná, 58 Cozumel, 100 Plaza Kukulcán (Cancún), Punta Sur, 99 Mérida, 116 155 San Gervasio (Cozumel), Playa del Carmen, 121 Plaza Mayor (Mérida), 109 99 Nohoch Mul (Cobá), 61 Pok Ta Pok Club de Golf, 37 Sayil, 58 Norte (northern) season, 158 Police, 165 Tulum, 61 North Beach (Isla Mujeres), Puerta del Mar (Campeche), Uxmal, 25, 57, 87 29, 50, 104 91 Xpujil, 60, 82 Nunnery (Chichén Itzá), 79 Puerta de Tierra Maya Spa Wellness Center Nunnery Quadrangle (Campeche), 81, 93 (Tulum), 65 (Uxmal), 57, 87 Puerto Aventuras Melia Cancún Golf Club, 37 golf, 38 Mercado 28 (Cancún), 17, O spa, 65 22, 131–132, 153 Puerto Cancún, 37 Ojo de Agua, 33 Mercado de Artesanías Puerto Morelos, 26, 72 Outdoor activities, 28–38 (Valladolid), 77, 127 beaches, 29–30 Mercado Municipal (Isla bird-watching, 67 Mujeres), 103 P for kids, 50–51 Mercado Municipal Palace of Masks (Kabah), 58 snorkeling and diving, (Valladolid), 126 Palacio del Gobierno 33 Mérida, 5, 23, 24, 84–86, (Mérida), 111 spas, 63–64 108–119 Palacio Municipal (Mérida), Punta Bete, 30 accommodations, 111 Punta Sur Ecological 117–118 Palancar reef, 34, 99 Reserve, 99 brief description of, Paraiso reef, 34 Punta Sur reef, 99 84–85 Parque Hildalgo (Mérida), Pyramid of Five Stories nightlife, 116 112 (Edzná), 59, 81 restaurants, 119 Parque Las Palapas (Cancún), Pyramid of the Dwarf sights and attractions, 147, 151 (Uxmal), 87 109–115 Parque Principal Pyramid of the Magician tourist office, 110 (Campeche), 81, 92 (Uxmal), 57, 87 Merida-Licenciado Manuel Parque Santa Lucia (Mérida), Pyramid of the Masks Crecencio Rejon Interna- 114 (Kohunlich), 82 tional Airport, 161 Parque Zoológico El Center- Mexican Folk Art Museum, 13 ario (Mérida), 116 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 179

179 Index Q S Structure II (Dzibanché), 60 Quinta Avenida (Playa del Sacred Cenote (Chichén Sunset Bar (Isla Mujeres), 18 Carmen), 121 Itzá), 79 Swimming, Cancún, 49 Samula cenote, 4 R San Bernardino, Church of T Rainy season, 158 (Valladolid), 77 Tankah, 31 Restaurants. See also San Bernardino of Siena, Tankah Cenote, 31 Restaurant Index Church of (Valladolid), 127 Taxes, 165 Cancún, 136–139 San Francisco reef, 99 Taxis, 163 Cozumel, 101 San Gervasio ruins Teatro Mérida, 111 Isla Mujeres, 107 (Cozumel), 99 Teatro Peón Contreras Mérida, 119 San Ildefonso, Catedral de (Mérida), 86, 113 Playa del Carmen, 123 (Mérida), 85, 109–110 Telephone, 165 Riviera Maya, 75 San Miguel, Iglesia de Temple of Kukulcán (Chichén southern Quintana (Cozumel), 98 Itzá), 14 Roo, 83 San Roque Museum Temple of Skulls (Chichén Valladolid, 128 (Valladolid), 125 Itzá), 56 Western Yucatán, 88 Santa Lucia, Iglesia de Temple of the Jaguars Revolution Day, 160 (Mérida), 114 (Chichén Itzá), 56 Rio Bec ruins, 82 Santa Lucia Park (Mérida), Temple of the Stone Masks Rio Lagartos, 78 114 (Edzná), 59 bird-watching, 67 Santa Rosa reef, 99 Temple of the Warriors Rio Lagartos Nature Sayil, 58 (Chichén Itzá), 56, 79 Reserve, 42 Scuba diving, 3–4. See also Temple of the Wind (Tulum), Riviera Maya, 6, 70–75 Cenotes 61 Riviera Maya Golf Club Cozumel, 34, 99 Three Kings Day, 160 (Puerto Aventuras), 38 Isla Mujeres, 33 Throne of the Red Jaguar Royal Hideaway (Playa del Puerto Morelos, 33 (Chichén Itzá), 55 Carmen), spa at, 64–65 Xcalak, 35 Time zone, 165 Ruins and archaelogical Xcaret, 52 Típica Naval (Campeche), 92 sites, 54–61 Seasons, 158 Tipping, 165 Becán, 60, 82 Selvatura (near Puerto Toilets, 165 Calakmul, 60–61 Morelos), 51 Top’ Nikte massage, 63 Chacchoben, 68 Semana Santa (Holy Week), Torreja (Rio Lagartos), 78 Chicanna, 60, 82 159 Tourist Help Line, 164 Chichén Itzá, 55–57 Sian Ka’an Biosphere Tourist offices, 158 Cobá, 61 Reserve, 3, 31, 46, 133 TPC La Roca Country Club, Dzibanché, 82 bird-watching, 68 37 Edzná, 25, 58–59, 81, 93 Small Acropolis (Edzná), 59 Transportation, 162–163 Ek Balam, 77–78 Smoker’s Stylish (Cancún), Tropical storms and Forest of Kings, 133 hurricanes, 158 60–61, 82 Smoking, 163 Tukulná (Campeche), 92 Isla Mujeres, 105 Snorkeling, 3–4 Tulum, 3, 25, 31, 61, 74 Kabah, 58 Cozumel, 34 spas, 65 Kinich Kakmo Isla Mujeres, 33 Tulum Avenue Flea Markets (Izamal), 86 Puerto Morelos, 33, 72 (Cancún), 154 Kinichná, 82 Xcalak, 35 Turtle sanctuary, Isla Labná, 58 Xcaret, 52 Mujeres, 104 Punta Sur, 99 Spa Itzá (Playa del San Gervasio (Cozumel), Carmen), 64 U 99 Spanish basics, 170–174 Ultrafemme (Cancún), 155 Sayil, 58 Spa Nizuc (Cancún), 63 UltraJewels (Cancún), 155 Tulum, 61 Spas, 62–65 The Underground River float Uxmal, 25, 57, 87 Special events and festivals, (Xcaret), 14–15, 52 Xpujil, 60, 82 159–160 Unidad Reception Center Ruta de Cenotes, 51 Spring Equinox (Chichén (Celestún), 86 Ruta Puuc, 57, 87 Itzá), 159 Uxmal, 25, 57, 87 Strategies for seeing the Yucatán, 8–10 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 180

180 V Blue Sky Inn (Tankah), 31 Hotel Francis Arlene (Isla Valladolid, 4, 23, 124–128 Cancun Inn Suites El Patio, Mujeres), 106 accommodations, 128 140, 141 Hotel Francis Drake Index brief description of, Casa Carolina (Xcalak), 35 (Campeche), 94 76–77 Casa del Balam (Mérida), 117 Hotel Laguna (Bacalar), 83 restaurants, 128 Casa Mexilio (Mérida), 117 Hotel Los Cocos (Chetumal), sights and attractions, Casa Turquesa (Cancún), 83 124–127 140, 141 Hotel Manglares (Celestún), Voladores de Papantla Ceiba del Mar (Puerto 44 (Xcaret), 15, 52 Morelos), 75 Hotel Marionetas (Mérida), Chicanna Ecovillage, 83 118 W Coco’s Cabañas (Punta Hotel Mayaland (Chichén Bete), 30 Itzá), 56–57 Water, drinking, 10 Deseo Hotel (Playa del Hotel Playa Maya (Playa del Wayan Natural Wear Carmen), 122 Carmen), 122 (Cancún), 156 Dolores Alba (Chichén Hotel Puerta Calakmul, 46 Websites, useful, 160–161 Itzá), 57 Hotel Secreto (Isla Mujeres), Western Yucatán, 84–88 Dreams Cancun Resort & 106 Westin Resort (Cancún), spa Spa, 140, 142 Hyatt Regency (Mérida), 118 at, 63 Ecohotel Flamingo Playa Jungla Caribe Hotel & Wet N’ Wild Parque Nizuc (Celestún), 88 Restaurant (Playa del (Cancún), 49 Eco Paraíso Xixim Carmen), 122 Whale sharks, 133 (Celestún), 88 Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Wildlife viewing, Calakmul El Presidente Inter-Continen- Spa, 140, 143 Biosphere Reserve, 45 tal Cozumel, 100 Macan Che (Izamal), 88 Wind and kite surfing, El Pueblito, 140, 142 Maria de la Luz (Valladolid), Puerto Morelos, 72 El Rey del Caribe (Cancún), 128 Windward Side (Cozumel), 99 140, 142 Marriott Casa Magna Explorean Club (Kohunilich), (Cancún), 140, 143 X 83 Misión de Fray Diego Xcalacoco, 30 Fiesta Americana Coral (Mérida), 118 Xcalak, 35 Beach (Cancún), 140, Na Balam (Isla Mujeres), 106 Xcaret, 14–15, 51–53, 133 142–143 Occidental Grand Cozumel, Xcaret Spectacular Night, Flycatcher Inn B&B (near 100 15, 52–53 Uxmal), 57, 88 Presidente Intercontinental Xel-Ha, 53 Genesis Retreat (Ek Balam), Cancún, 140, 144 Xkeken cenote, 4 55, 78 Qué Onda (Akumal), 35 Xlapak, 58 Hacienda Chichén Itzá, 18, 23 Radisson Hacienda Cancún, Xpuhil (Xpujil), 25, 60, 82 Hacienda de la Tortuga 140, 144 (Akumal), 30 Rancho Encantado (near Y Hacienda San Miguel Chetumal), 25 Yalat (Valladolid), 126–127 (Cozumel), 100 Ritz-Carlton Hotel (Cancún), Yal-ku Lagoon, 30, 34 Hacienda Uxmal, 57 140, 144 Yax Sports Book (Cancún), Hacienda Xcanatun (near Sina Suites (Cancún), 140, 133 Mérida), 117 145 Yucab reef, 34, 99 Hilton Cancún Beach & Golf Sun Palace (Cancún), 145 Yucatán, strategies for Resort, 140, 143 Treetops (Playa del Carmen), seeing, 8–10 Holiday Inn Caribe 122 Yucatán Serenade (Mérida), (Chetumal), 83 Villa Rolandi Hotel & Beach 114 Hotel America (Campeche), Club (Isla Mujeres), 106 94 Villas Arqueológicas (Cobá), Z Hotel Baluartes (Campeche), 61 Zara (Cancún), 156 94 Villas Playasol (Puerto Zócalo, Isla Mujeres, 103 Hotel Colonial (Campeche), Morelos), 51 Zoo, Mérida, 116 94 Westin Resort & Spa Cancún, Hotel del Mar (Campeche), 13, 140, 145 94 Accommodations Hotel Dolores Alba (Mérida), Ana y Jose (Tulum), 75 Restaurants 117 Aqua Cancún, 140, 141 Aioli (Cancún), 136, 137 Hotel Flamingo (Cozumel), Bazar (Valladolid), 128 Alberto’s Continental 100 Blue Bay Getaway (Cancún), (Mérida), 119 141 Ana y Jose (Tulum), 75 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/23/07 9:27 AM Page 181

181 Photo Bistro Frances (Isla Mujeres), Hotel Ojo de Agua (Puerto Mango Tango (Cancún), 138 107 Morelos), 50 Maria Bonita (Cancún), Blue Bayou (Cancún), 137 John Gray’s Place (Playa del 138–139

Bodos (Puerto Morelos), 75 Carmen), 123 Miramar (Isla Mujeres), 107 Credits Cabaña del Pescador Kinich Kakmo (Izamal), 88 100% Natural (Cancún), 139 (Lobster House; Labná (Cancún), 138 Oscar y Lalo’s Restaurant Cozumel), 101 La Buena Vida Bar & Restau- (near Playa del Carmen), Café del Museo (Cozumel), rant (Akumal), 35 73 98 La Casa del Paseo (Mérida), Pancho’s (Mérida), 116 Café Kabah (Valladolid), 23 119 Pelícanos (Puerto Morelos), Café Peón Contreras, 114 La Choza (Cozumel), 101 29, 75 Cafeteria Pop (Mérida), 119 La Desilería (Cancún), 136, Perico’s (Cancún), 136, 139 Cambalache (Cancún), 136, 137 Pizza Rolandi (Cancún), 136, 137 La Dolce Vita (Cancún), 17, 139 Capi Navigante (Cozumel), 136 Plaza Maya (Valladolid), 128 101 La Fisheria (Cancún), 137 Puerto Madero (Cancún), Casa Cenote Restaurant Laguna Grill (Cancún), 136, 139 (Tankah), 31 138 Rainforest Café (Cancún), 50, Casa Mediterránea (Playa del La Habana (Mérida), 116 136, 139 Carmen), 123 La Habichuela (Cancún), 136 Restaurant Amaro (Mérida), Casa O’s (Isla Mujeres), 107 La Palapa (Cancún), 136, 138 119 Casa Rolandi (Isla Mujeres), La Parilla (Cancún), 17, 136, Restaurant Bar Familiar La 13, 107 150 Parroquia (Campeche), 95 Casa Vieja (Campeche), 95 La Pigua (Campeche), 95 Restaurant El Nuevo Tucho Cenacolo (Cancún), 137 Las Palapas Chimbos (Isla (Mérida), 116 Club Grill (Cancún), 136, 137 Mujeres), 18 Restaurante Marganzo Coffee Press (Playa del La Tarraya Restaurant (Playa (Campeche), 95 Carmen), 26, 121 del Carmen), 123 Restaurant Isla Contoy (Rio Cozumel Museum La Veranda (Cozumel), 101 Lagartos), 78 Cafe, 26 Lol-Ha Restaurant & Bar, 30 Restaurant Portales El Chino (Playa del Carmen), Lorenzillo’s (Cancún), 136, (Valladolid), 77 123 138 Rio Nizuc Restaurant, 13, El Kabah Café (Valladolid), Lorita Joe’s (Cancún), 136, 133 125 138 Rolandi’s Pizza (Isla Mujeres), El Meson del Marquéz Los Almendros (Cancún), 107 (Valladolid), 128 136, 138 Savio’s (Cancún), 139 El Pórtico del Peregrino Los Bisquets de Obregon Tycoz (Cancún), 22, 136, 139 (Mérida), 119 (Cancún), 133 Villa María Hotel & Restau- Hacienda El Mortero, 14 Los Negritos (Rio Lagartos), rant (Mérida), 119 Hotel Los Cocos (Chetumal), 78 Zamas (Tulum), 75 83 Los Piños (Punta Bete), 30 Zazil Ha (Isla Mujeres), 18, 107 Photo Credits

p viii: © Macduff Everton/Corbis; p3: © Andrea Pistolesi/Getty Images; p 4: © Eric Nathan/Alamy; p 5, top: © Sami Sarkis/Alamy; p 5, bottom: © Mark Gibson/Index Stock Imagery; p 6: © Timothy O’Keefe/Index Stock Imagery; p 7: © Chris Sanders/Jupiter Images; p 9: © Macduff Everton/Corbis; p 10, bottom: © Arco Images/Alamy; p 10, top: © June & Bruce Conord; p 11: © June & Bruce Conord; p 13: © June & Bruce Conord; p 14: © SIME s.a.s./eStock Photo; p 15, top: M. Timothy O’Keefe/Alamy; p 15, bottom: Robert Fried/Alamy; p 17: © Jeremy Woodhouse/Getty Images; p 18: © Vibrant Pictures/Alamy; p 19: John Neubauer Lonely Planet Images; p 20, bottom: © Katja Kreder/FAN travelstock/Alamy; p 20, top: © Bob Krist/eStock Photo; p 21, bottom: © June & Bruce Conord; p 21, top: © Christine Holmquist/Index Stock Imagery; p 23, bottom: © Andreas M. Gross/Westend61/Alamy; p 23, top: © SIME s.a.s./eStock Photo; p 24: 13_081198 bindex.qxp1/23/079:27AMPage182 182182 Photo Credits p 69: © Chris A. 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G.Houser/Post-Houserstock/ Secreto; Fried/Alamy;p110: p107:©NikWheeler/Corbis;109:Robert Vanni/CORBIS;file; p105,bottom:©GianBerto Hotel p106:Courtesy © Bruce Conord;p104: Bliss/Alamy; p101:Cour p98,bottom:©Photo- Corbis; p98,top:©RichardCummins/SuperStock; HotelAmerica;p97:©Carl&AnnPurcell/Planet Images;p94:Courtesy © HollenbeckPhotography/ImageState/Jupiter; p93:© John ElkIII/Lonely p92,bottom:©JohnElkIII/Lonely PlanetImages;p92,top: Imagery; Am Sohm/Visions of Lonely Planet Kim Grant/ p85,bottom:©Francisco p87:© Arnold; Martín/epa/Corbis; Planet Images;p82:©Bertrand Gardel/Hemis/Alamy;p85,top:©Jon © MauricioVázquez/AGE Fotostock;p81,bottom:©JohnElkIII/Lonely Fotostock; p79,bottom:©JohnElkIII/Lonely PlanetImages;p81,top: Alamy; p78:©AndoniCanela/AGE Fotostock;p79,top:©VictorElías/AGE Occidental Grande; p75:©Degree/e StockPhoto;p77:©PhotoBliss/ p 74,top:©MarkNewman/AGE Cozumel Fotostock;p74,bottom:Courtesy Westinp 72:Courtesy &SpaCancún;p73:©BobKrist/eStockPhoto; Resort Images; p 88: Courtesy FlycatcherImages; p88:Courtesy InnB&B;p89:©Joe umley/Alamy; p71:©MarkNe erica, LLC/Alamy; p91:©TimothyO’Keefe/Index Stock PCL/Alamy; p105,top:©ChadJohnston/Master- tesy OccidentalGrand Cozumel;p103:©June& wman/Index Stock Imagery; 183 Photo Credits Skrypczak/Lonely p 126, bottom: © PCL/Alamy; p 126, top: Planet Images; p 128: Fotostock; Raga/AGE José Fueste p 127: © & Bruce Conord; © June Inter- p 129: Courtesy Presidente del Marqués; Mesón Everton/El © McDuff Fotostock; p 132: Hamilton/AGE W. p 131; © David Continental Cancun; Planet Images; Neubauer/Lonely Conord; p 133: © John © June & Bruce Photo- p 137: © Kelly-Mooney Photography/Corbis; p 136: © Kelly-Mooney Resort Cancún p 138, top: Courtesy 138, & Spa; p Dream graphy/Corbis; Sanger Pho- p 139: © David Photography/Alamy; Sanger bottom: © David p 142: Courtesy Fotostock; Cavalli/AGE p 140: © Angelo tography/Alamy; Beach & Golf Resort;Hilton Cancún Cancún 143: Courtesy Méridien p Le Resort Resort & Spa; p 144: Courtesy Méridien Cancún Le & Spa; p 145: InterContinental Cancun; p 147: CourtesyCourtesy Westin Presidente p 149, Resort & Spa Cancún; p 148: © Hisham Ibrahim/Photov.com/Alamy; p 149, bottom: Courtesy The top: © Hisham Ibrahim/Photov.com/Alamy; Rooney/ City; p 150: Courtesy p 152: © Grant The City; p 151: © PCL/Alamy; Fotostock; p 153, bottom: Bibikow/AGE Alamy; p 153, top: © Walter 156: © Jon Arnold/DanitaDelimont.com; p Group; Courtesy of the Amoro /eStock Photo. p 157: © Degree 13_081198 bindex.qxp 1/23/07 9:27 AM Page 183 Page 9:27 AM 1/23/07 bindex.qxp 13_081198 14_081198 generic_daybyday_ad.qxp 1/10/07 6:15 PM Page 184

The new way to get AROUNDtown.

Make the most of your stay. Go Day by Day!

The all-new Day by Day series shows you the best places to visit and the best way to see them. • Full-color throughout, with hundreds of photos and maps • Packed with 1–to–3–day itineraries, neighborhood walks, and thematic tours • Museums, literary haunts, offbeat places, and more • Star-rated hotel and restaurant listings • Sturdy foldout map in reclosable plastic wallet • Foldout front covers with at-a-glance maps and info The best trips start here. Wiley and the Wiley logo are registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Frommer’s is a registered trademark of Arthur Frommer.