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Cancun, Cozumel & the Yucatan 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Cancún & Around Isla Mujeres p58 p80 Yucatán State & Riviera Maya the Maya Heartland p103 p150 Isla Cozumel p90 Costa Maya & Southern Campeche Caribbean Coast State p133 p207 Chiapas & Tabasco p233 Ashley Harrell, Ray Bartlett, Stuart Butler, John Hecht PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Cancún, CANCÚN & ISLA COZUMEL . 90 Cozumel & the Yucatán . 4 AROUND . 58 History . 91 Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Map . 6 Cancún . 60 Sights . 93 Cancún, Cozumel & History . 60 Activities . 95 the Yucatán’s Top 16 . 8 Sights . 60 Festivals & Events . 98 Need to Know . 16 Beaches . 60 Sleeping . 98 First Time . 18 Activities . 61 If You Like . 20 Eating . 99 Month by Month . 23 Sleeping . 62 Drinking & Nightlife . 101 Itineraries . 26 Eating . 65 Entertainment . 101 Diving & Snorkeling . 32 Drinking & Nightlife . 70 Shopping . 101 Exploring Maya Ruins . 37 Entertainment . 71 Eat & Drink Like Shopping . 71 RIVIERA MAYA . 103 a Local . 42 North of Cancún . 75 Travel with Children . 51 Puerto Morelos . 105 Regions at a Glance . 54 Isla Contoy . 75 Playa del Carmen . 108 Isla Holbox . 75 Akumal . 118 POLA DAMONTE VIA GETTY IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES IMAGES/GETTY GETTY VIA DAMONTE POLA Tulum . 119 ISLA MUJERES . 80 Around Tulum . 127 History . 82 Punta Allen . 131 Sights . 82 Beaches . 82 COSTA MAYA & Activities . 82 SOUTHERN Sleeping . 85 CARIBBEAN COAST . 133 Eating . 86 Felipe Carrillo Puerto . 135 Drinking & Nightlife . 88 Mahahual . 136 PLAYA DEL CARMEN P108 Shopping . 88 Xcalak . 139 Laguna Bacalar . 140 Chetumal . 143 BONNIEBC/SHUTTERSTOCK © BONNIEBC/SHUTTERSTOCK MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES COLOMBO/GETTY MATTEO Corredor Arqueológico . 147 Corozal Town . 149 DÍA DE MUERTOS P25 CENOTE SUYTUN P199 Contents UNDERSTAND YUCATÁN STATE & CAMPECHE STATE . 207 Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Today . 258 THE MAYA Campeche . 209 HEARTLAND . 150 History . 260 Northern Campeche . 218 Mérida . 151 Yucatecan Pomuch . 218 Way of Life . 268 South of Mérida . 171 Hecelchakán . 218 The Ancient Maya . 273 Oxkintok . 171 Bécal . 219 Land & Wildlife . 278 Grutas de Calcehtok . .. 171 Hopelchén . 220 Uxmal . 171 Chenes Sites . 220 Santa Elena . 174 Edzná . 221 Kabah . 175 Southwestern Coast . 223 Ruta Puuc . 176 Champotón . 223 Ruinas de Mayapán . 177 Sabancuy . 224 Cenotes de Cuzamá . 178 Isla Aguada . 224 Ticul . 178 Ciudad del Carmen . 225 SURVIVAL Oxkutzcab . 180 Southeastern GUIDE Tekax . 181 Campeche . 227 West & North Balamkú . .. 227 of Mérida . 182 Directory A–Z . 286 Calakmul . 227 Celestún . 182 Transportation . 297 Chicanná & Becán . 229 Dzibilchaltún . 185 Language . 304 Xpujil . 230 Progreso . 185 Index . 313 Zoh-Laguna . 231 East of Progreso . 187 Map Legend . 319 Río Bec . 232 Eastern Yucatán State . 187 Hormiguero . 232 Izamal . 187 Chichén Itzá . 190 CHIAPAS & Valladolid . 197 TABASCO . 233 Ek’ Balam . 202 Chiapas . 236 Tizimín . 203 San Cristóbal Río Lagartos . 204 de las Casas . 236 SPECIAL El Cuyo . 205 Around San Cristóbal FEATURES de las Casas . 244 San Felipe . 206 Off the Beaten Palenque . 245 Track Map . 30 Bonampak, Yaxchilán & the Diving & Snorkeling . 32 Carretera Fronteriza . 250 Exploring Maya Ruins . 37 Tabasco . 253 Yucatán Peninsula Cenotes . 166 Villahermosa . 254 3D Chichén Itzá . 190 Comalcalco . 255 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 NATALIYA HORA/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES HORA/GETTY NATALIYA Plan Your Trip Itineraries •# Cancún QUINTANA ROO É YUCATÁN •# Puerto Morelos É Playa del Carmen •# É É É •# É •# Cobá Isla Cozumel Gran É Cenote É •# É •# Tulum 1 WEEK Cancún & the Riviera Maya After a day or two in Cancún, make your The road from Cancún to Cobá is way south about 30km and stop in Puerto chock-full of surprises. Along the way Morelos to duck out to the beach, browse you’ll find fun-filled cenotes (limestone for handmade crafts and get in some snor- sinkholes), astonishing Maya ruins and keling or diving. sweet little beach towns with sugar- Next, spend a little time beach- white sands. bumming and partying in uberchic Playa del Carmen, a large city with a dizzying Get things started with a dip in the sap- array of restaurants, bars and discos. phire waters along the Zona Hotelera Playa, as it’s called, is a good jumping- (hotel zone) of Cancún or hit the secluded off point for Isla Cozumel, where you can beaches north of downtown on Isla Blanca, enjoy some of the best diving in the world, then return to town for dinner, drinks and quiet beaches on the island’s windswept perhaps some salsa dancing. side and a pleasant town plaza. Frequent ferries run between Playa and Cozumel. 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES Puerto Morelos (p105) Back on the mainland, you’ll definitely and marvel at jungle ruins connected by want to make time for Tulum, where ancient paths. Stop for lunch at a lakeside Maya ruins are perched atop a spectacular restaurant in Cobá, then on the way back cliff overlooking the Mexican Caribbean. to Tulum, drop by the Gran Cenote for a While at the site, take the stairs down to swim or snorkel in a large sinkhole with the beach and have a refreshing swim to small fish. cool off. Stay the night in Tulum’s town, This easy 170km trip stays close to where the main drag is lined with hap- Cancún and there’s frequent transport to pening bars and restaurants, or head 3km all of these destinations, or you can just south to the coast and get a bungalow in rent a car. Tulum’s hip and happening Zona Hotelera. With an early start, take off for the Maya ruins of Cobá (find the road to Cobá at Tulum’s north end). Once inside this archaeological site, rent a bicycle 28 ELENA/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES ELENA/GETTY 10 DAYS Maya Country The architectural and artistic achievements of the Maya are prominently displayed PLAN YOUR TRIP across the peninsula. Though the ancient cities are long abandoned, the Maya people and their traditions are still very present. One can spend weeks, even months, visiting all the ruins, archaeological museums and small Maya towns. IT I For background, visit the shiny Museo Maya NERAR de Cancún in the heart of the Zona Hotelera in Cancún, where admission includes access to adjoining Maya ruins. I ES Hit the road the next day and spend a day or two in the colonial town of Valladolid, a former Maya ceremonial center with a climbable pyra- mid near the town square. For some respite from your Maya itinerary, drop by Cenote X’Kekén y Samulá on your way out of town and take a plunge into a spectacular limestone cavern pool. Next set aside a day for Chichén Itzá, a Maya archaeological site that was named one of the ‘new seven wonders of the world.’ Get an early start to beat the tour-bus crowds. Head slightly further south for a bird-watching or cultural tour with Yucatán Jay Expeditions & Tours in their local community. A route then leads to Oxkutzcab and Tekax, offering glimpses of traditional Maya life. While in Oxkutzcab, check out the nearby Grutas de Loltún, the largest cave system on the peninsula. © STOCK MITCHELL/ALAMY JOHN The following day move on to Santa Elena, which makes a fine base for exploring the impressive ruins of Uxmal, Kabah and several other archaeological sites tucked away in the rolling Puuc hills. After crossing the Yucatán-Campeche border, stop at Hopelchén, where in a nearby village, you can see the tradition of beekeeping. Make your way to the walled city of Campe- che, a good base for visiting Edzná, a formi- dable Maya site with a five-story temple. The peninsula’s south harbors numerous fascinating but scarcely visited remnants of classic Maya civilization ensconced in the vast Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul. Extend your explorations for several days to the ruins of Palenque and the contemporary Maya domain of San Cristóbal de las Casas, both in Chiapas. Most destinations on this route are reach- able by bus or shared transport vehicles, but for Top: Valladolid (p197) some you’ll need to hire a car, taxi or go with a Bottom: Jade mask, Museo Maya de Cancún (p60) tour operator. 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES #• Cancún Chichén Valladolid É Itzá #•#• Uxmal É #• Cenote X'Kekén y Samulá #• #• Santa Elena #• #• Oxkutzcab É #• Tekax É Campeche #• É #• Grutas de Loltún #• Hopelchén Edzná É #•Reserva de la É Biosfera Calakmul Palenque #• É BELIZE GUATEMALA San Cristóbal #• de las Casas MEXICO 30 Off the Beaten Track Cancún Cozumel Yucatan DLAM DE RA & SAA CLARA t PLAN YOUR TRIP G u l f o f mañana Progreso M e x i c o Sisal MÉRIDA KCA Celestún Umán Acanceh OFF OFF Ticul Bécal B Oxkutzcab T H E Bolonchén B de Rejón EATEN Campeche Hopelchén Santa SAA RSA AMPAK Rosa Xtampak Dzibalchén TRA t Champotón Xmaben CK (p220) Puerto Real EL TIGRE Ciudad del Río San P Xpujil Carmen Escárcega Comalcalco edro La Venta Candelaria Cárdenas Villahermosa Reforma Catazajá Emiliano Zapata Teapa Tenosique Pichucalco Palenque MEXICO R ío Gri j al Ocozocoautla va Soyalo Ocosingo Frontera Corozal San Cristóbal Bethel Tuxtla Chiapa de las Casas Juiquipilas Gutiérrez de Corzo Amatenango del Valle M E X I C O Arriaga Comitán Tonalá Puerto Arista G U A T E M A L A Boca del Cielo Pijijiapan EL RE Mapastepec s Escuintla I Huixtla Tuxtla Chico P A C I F I C Tapachula H C C a O C E A N Ciudad t Hidalgo 31 0 km 0 miles R LAARS RÍO LAGARTOS a Dzilam de San Bravo PLAN YOUR TRIP Crisanto Chiquilá I Santa Clara Cancún Tizimín Izamal Puerto Kantunil Morelos Cuzamá Playa del Valladolid Carmen San Miguel de Cozumel OFF Tulum PA ALLE T H E Santa Rosa B PUNTA ALLEN EATEN Felipe Carrillo Puerto PUNTA HERRERO TRA M E X I C O CK Nohbec PA ERRER a DZIBANCHÉ Mahahual C s Chetumal s K I CENOTES MIGUEL Xcalak COLORADO C A R I B B E A N S E A DAC t I CEES MEL B E L I Z E CLRAD a C s H O N D U R A S ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better.
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